Month: February 2023

Glasgow

On By Travels with MelindaIn Glasgow, Uncategorized1 Comment

With Thom’s back still needing rest after a long train travel day from Edinburgh to Glasgow (delays due to rain on tracks causing us to exit trains twice and eventually hire a cab to finish the journey), I left him resting up at the hotel and booked a Hop On Hop Off bus through my TripAdvisor app (save 10%) for about $15 US. The first stop on their loop around Glasgow was close to our hotel and I walked right up and on and off I went. Make sure to book the tour for English or multi language, whichever suits you. Some of my trip was with a pre-recorded tour guide on headphones and then later with a live guide over the speakers. Both are fine if you just want to see the sites and get a brief history lesson. Since I was alone in a new city, I felt more comfortable taking this kind of tour vs. just walking around town by myself to get the lay of the land and see the charming Gothic and Victorian architecture.

You can ride all day on the bus (usually 10 am to 5 pm) but I needed to get back to the hotel to check in on Thom and plus I had forgotten my backup battery pack for my phone, and it was dying fast (TIP: ALWAYS CARRY POWER!) so I only hopped off once to visit the magnificent Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, no ticket needed and free entry. The majestic entry halls are filled with various objects: hanging heads and a WWII plane as well as a huge organ, where they give free concerts every day at 1 pm. There are several floors with paintings, historical items like knight’s armor, etc. You could spend all day here in order to see everything. The grounds around the museum are lovely and a path leads over to University of Glasgow. If I had more time, I would have taken a long walk there, as friends recommended it. JK Rowling used University of Glasgow as inspiration for some Harry Potter scenes. I could tell from a distance that the historical buildings were beautiful and a small stream meanders through it. Next time!

Luckily by the next morning, Thom was feeling better, and we went for a morning stroll to nearby Glasgow Cathedral. Again, free to enter and gorgeous stained-glass windows, St. Mungo’s tomb and typical religious grandeur of European cathedrals. You can just imagine the knights riding on their huge horses onto the stone floors to receive a blessing prior to battles.

We didn’t get a chance to check out the food scene in Glasgow, but I did score a street hot dog with gherkins and crispy onions to take back to the hotel for Thom. He’s a New York born and bred connoisseur of street dogs so when he said it passed the “test”, that was high praise indeed! Thom also appreciated the Dr. Who Tardis, masquerading as a coffee hut near Glasgow Cathedral, especially as our next stop on the UK train trip was Liverpool where we planned to see the Dr. Who exhibit. Thom has a tattoo of a Tardis on his upper arm and loves to show it off to fellow Dr. Who fans, who are always impressed by this permanent tribute to his favorite show, an enduring UK classic.

When I did go out for a quick stroll around the neighborhood by our hotel to get some snacks for our next train ride, I stumbled upon a mystical potions shop and some unbelievable street art. I’m hoping for a return trip to Glasgow when Thom is feeling better, and we can explore this fascinating city together. Cheers!

Edinburgh

On By Travels with MelindaIn Edinburgh, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Arriving on the train from London at Edinburgh’s Waverly Station, our first impression was not a good one. Edinburgh was just coming off a 12-day trash collector strike and had only two days to recover before we arrived, but the streets were still strewn with residual trash left behind. Once we got past the trash though, we saw what a charming place Edinburgh really is!

After we checked into our hotel, Courtyard by Marriott, we headed to the trail behind the hotel leading up to Carlon Hill, perched high above Edinburgh and offering a spectacular view of the city and beyond, even to the coastline. Our perspective shifted quickly to Edinburgh being one of the prettiest cities I’ve ever seen, and we can’t wait to go back. Just goes to show you that you need to explore a city before judging it. If you like to walk and find secret staircases and passageways, then Edinburgh is your city! Everywhere you look there is an alternative path to the main streets. Of course, this causes Google Maps to lead you astray sometimes and confuse you. On the way to walk to Scottish Parliament for our tour, we ended up having to take a steep stone staircase, Jacob’s Ladder, which I found reference to as being historic but boy was it spooky going into a short tunnel after we navigated the staircase without incident.

After just visiting the UK Parliament in London, we decided to follow that up with a free Scottish Parliament tour. What a contrast between the historic UK building and this modern structure. We were allowed in to see where the Parliament sits when they are in session, which was the following day. We wanted to go back and see them debate but alas Thom hurt his back and we ended up having to skip it. One interesting fact was that the Parliament has beehives onsite that they care for and sell their honey in the gift shop. They also sell hard liquor, which is a featured product in many museum/government gift shops in the UK. I imagine the politicians that endure a bad day just grab a bottle of the hard stuff on their way out. Cheers!

Before Thom was laid up with back pain, we managed to get all over town and see the key sites. A highlight was finding Greyfriars Bobby, a statue of the best and most loyal dog in the world. Legend has it that this Skye Terrier in the 19th century would sit by his owner’s gravesite every day for fourteen years until he passed as well. After patting Bobby on the head, we entered Greyfriar’s graveyard, where JK Rowling prowled around looking for inspiration for her Harry Potter books. It is dripping with atmosphere so I can see why. We found Thomas Riddle’s grave and also William McGonagall-sound familiar? As we heard the owls hooting, we could only imagine JK finding her muse among the spooky gravestones. My husband loves tramping around old graveyards. His favorite is Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris filled with atmosphere and famous dead people like Jim Morrison, Frederic Chopin, Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde.

Edinburgh Castle looms large over the city, up a steep street and worth the climb. It is immaculately preserved from the stone walls to the many canons that defended the good people of Edinburgh from invaders. The lovely 80-year-old working in the gift shop and giving out whiskey samples only enhanced the visit for me. I bought a wee dram of Stag’s Breath Liqueur, a fine whisky and fermented comb honey liqueur. Yum! Also, the gift store rocked as they carried multiple rubber character duckies that we collect for our grandkids from all over the world. So, history, whiskey, ducks. Well done! As one sign I saw in Edinburgh declared “Today’s rain is tomorrow’s whiskey”.  Make sure to leave time on your visit to Edinburgh to enjoy the plentiful pubs, cafes and shops that line the colorful winding streets. Do a whiskey tasting! You never know when you will stumble upon bagpipes being played. While known for its moody weather, it was sunny and beautiful when we visited in late September so we got to roam around in comfort and enjoy all that Edinburgh had to offer. Can’t wait to go back!

Unique Souvenirs in Rome

On By Travels with MelindaIn RomeLeave a comment

Prior to going on any trip, I search out videos to watch about the place we plan to visit. YouTube is my go-to place but I happened to view “Bobby and Giada in Italy” on the Food Network to prepare for our trip to Rome. On one of the episodes, Giada visits an artist right around the corner from her mother’s apartment in Rome to find a gift for Bobby. This cool shop, La Bottega del Marmoraro, is her favorite place to go (and now mine!) to get personalized gifts from Sandro Fiorentina, a marble craftsman and true Italian artisan.

For a truly unique souvenir, I highly recommend you take a stroll to 53 Via Margutta and order a handmade one-of-a-kind marble plaque to bring home for yourself and others. Entering this artisan’s workshop filled with treasures is an experience you won’t forget. Be prepared with your order on a piece of paper in Italian-any translator app will do this for you. Sandro doesn’t speak very much English, so I researched in advance what I wanted on my customized marble signs: “sisters” in Italian for my sisters who visited Italy with me on a Girls Trip the prior year and “Goditi il Viaggio” aka “Enjoy the Journey” for myself because that is the motto I strive to live by.

Using some hand gestures to indicate the size of the sign I wanted, we settled on a date I would come back to get the finished products. Order your treasures early in your Rome stay to allow time for them to be custom made. My order took two days to complete but perhaps Sandro won’t be so busy when you visit, and it will take less time. The price was very reasonable for such a unique gift. If you don’t have time for a custom order, Sandro does have a vast assortment of signs already made with common sayings that you can purchase. So, get your translator app out and find a souvenir with a saying on it that speaks to you to take home immediately.

As with any trip, always leave room in your luggage for souvenirs to take home! I tried shipping wine/olive oil home from Italy on a previous trip, and it took months and there was damage enroute so I wouldn’t recommend that approach. My favorite souvenir for myself, besides Sandro’s sign, is jewelry (from local artisans if possible). It’s lightweight and easy to pack. I got an amazing necklace for $25euros at a little boutique by our hotel in Rome. Don’t be afraid to get off the tourist trail and seek out hidden gems. You won’t regret it. Enjoy the journey!

Florence-Know Before You Go!

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Florence is a magical place. I’ve been fortunate to visit several times and want to share some basic information with others who may be visiting for the first time so you can know before you go!

SUNDAY/MONDAYS-closures

Make sure you check before you go anywhere. Some museums (not all) are closed on Sundays and/or Mondays. Small stores especially in non-tourist areas are also closed. Markets like San Ambrosia are closed Sundays but San Lorenzo was open and busy on a Sunday. We enjoyed the market of artisans on the Piazza by the train station, Piazza Sante Maria Novella. Thom chatted with an artisan who made Thom a fine leather bracelet to fit on the spot. Travel from there to San Lorenzo market, also open on Sunday, where you can shop at the many stalls all around the market itself and then go in and eat at Mercato Centrale which has a huge variety of diverse cuisine to choose from and tv’s to watch the local football aka soccer games. Do a little research before you set out to Florence and you won’t be disappointed!

MAILING POSTCARDS

Mailing postcards to our grandkids during each country’s stay is a must for us. It’s easier in some countries than others. Here in Italy, it’s a process. First, finding postcards in the tourist area is easy! I paid 50 cents for really nice ones. We like to mail postcards from everywhere we go to not only our family but to ourselves. There are some really artistic postcards out there that are a lovely souvenir when you get home. We framed ours and hung them on the wall. Then, go to the local bar/convenience store where they sell things like cigarettes, lottery tickets, and stamps. Each stamp to mail postcards to US cost me $2euros. Postcards written and stamped, now where to mail? I stopped a postman that was delivering mail on our street, and he spoke some English but couldn’t mail my postcards. He said they would sit in his office for a while (??) and it would be faster for me to find a red mailbox on the street and use that to mail them. So, off I went to a tourist section to find one. Nope-none to be found. While I was at a hotel trying and failing to get a reservation at their fabulous rooftop bar, I walked through the lobby like I was staying there and handed them to the concierge and asked “mail?” and he nodded. Score! Later as we walked the streets of Florence looking for street art, I did start seeing the red mailboxes hung on buildings. Now I know!

GETTING AROUND FLORENCE-Building numbers in red AND blue

I was having a hard time finding an artisan jeweler even though I had the address. After wandering for a while, we noticed as we walked down the street that each doorway had either a blue number on their doorway and/or a red number. These numbers are not sequential with each other; however, the red numbers are sequential, and the blue numbers are sequential. When I finally found the jewelry store, the artisan explained that businesses are given red numbers and residences and hotels are given blue numbers. Then, I looked at the address she has listed on her social media, and it clearly states “28R” aka “28 Red” after the street name. Ahhh! Now I can find my way around Florence and so can you! And, FYI, there are condom machines hung on buildings to keep the Florentines safe. I saw more of these than the red mailboxes.

TAKING THE BUS IN FLORENCE

There is no Uber in Florence. Taxi apps did not work for us despite repeated attempts. Bike rentals are possible but there aren’t bike paths. With the cobblestone streets and frantic drivers, I would not recommend bike riding. You could take a carriage ride in the tourist area, but I only saw one of these, so this service is fairly limited and probably very expensive. The public transportation to take in Florence is trams or buses or a limited subway. Buses run on schedule and get you where you need to go. Unfortunately, you can’t just tap on and off with your phone like you can in the UK. Italy has not quite caught up yet with current technology. You have to buy a paper ticket at a Tabac aka convenience store/bar. One ticket is $1.50 euros and are valid for 70 minutes from the time you validate them on the bus except in Florence where it is valid for 90 minutes. Who knows why??

Use an app to find a bus stop and times and routes. The Moovit app works well in Italy or Rome2rio app is good too. Some bus stops have an electronic reader board with bus numbers and estimated time of arrivals. Who knows-when you go to the bus stop, you may even find a new pair of shoes-the locals like to share items there that they no longer need. Our local bus stop had paper bus schedules taped on and could be outdated. I would recommend using an app. To validate your ticket, there will be a machine near the front of the bus as you enter. Stick your ticket in with the “please stamp here” end going in first. This will stamp your ticket with a date and time. Take your ticket out and keep it.

There are transportation strikes. Everywhere and any time. Leaving Florence, we saw notices of strikes taped at the bus stops. Just go with the flow and have a backup plan like walking, which is the easiest and fastest way to get around Florence. Enjoy this magical place!

Piazza Navona and Pantheon, Rome

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The key to seeing all the incredible sights in Rome is to carefully craft your itinerary to visit sights that are near each other. Not that I don’t love walking 20,000 steps a day but that takes time and when you only have a few days in one of the most amazing cities in the world, you have to be strategic.

We walked from our hotel to the Piazza Navona, a “must see” site in Rome that is a Baroque period square that played a starring role in the Angels & Demons movie (2000). Of course, we had to watch this movie again just before visiting in order to refresh our memories. The square was fairly quiet when we visited in the morning-no attempted murders happening like in the movie. Bernini’s Fountain of Rivers created in the 1600’s is the centerpiece of this site and rightly so-it’s beautiful. We walked around enjoying the details from every angle, as did several nuns who were out and about early like us. While you are there, also check out the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona. We tend to walk into any church that will let us. They are all beautiful.

Walk from one side of the Piazza to the other and keep on walking for about 5 minutes to the Pantheon. Another free historical site that shouldn’t be missed. You may have to queue up (we waited maybe 15 minutes) to get in and there is the usual church dress code to maintain (no bare shoulders). I had forgotten and had worn a sleeveless shirt over a tank, so I improvised and took off the outer shirt and wrapped it around my shoulders-it worked! The Pantheon is a Catholic church and mass is celebrated on Sundays and holy days of obligations. I imagine attending a service would be a great memory, as would getting a guided tour with a guide who can share all the history.

Entering the Pantheon, you should immediately look up. The rotunda with the massive, coffered concrete dome ceiling with a central opening aka oculus to the sky is the showpiece.  Amazing architecture and engineering built how many years ago?? Fun fact from wikipedia: Almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon’s dome is still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome.

After the Pantheon, we wandered around and stumbled upon yet another fabulous church nearby that was open for exploring. Basilica of Santa Maria sopra Minerva is stunning (see photos below). Definitely worth a stop in to see and appreciate the gorgeous ceilings.