We had originally planned to stay in an Airbnb on Ile Saint Louis but after watching the customer reviews for that particular apartment get decreasingly negative, we opted out and got another place in a different arrondissement. Strolling the idyllic streets on Ile Saint-Louis on our Girls Trip 2023, we wished we had been able to stay there. With the stylish cafes and shops and very little surface traffic, it really is an island oasis within bustling urban Paris.
Consisting of 27 acres, it is one of two natural islands in the Seine River. The other natural island is the Ile de la Cite where Notre Dame is located. Ile Saint-Louis is connected to the rest of Paris by four bridges to both banks of the river and to the Ile de la Cite. The island is located within the 4th arrondissement. With only a population of 4,000+, this island is supposedly the costliest real estate in Paris.
Another day we came back to the island to sample the “best ice cream in Paris” at the Tea Room – Berthillon. You can wait in line for ice cream, but we lucked into a table in their cute tearoom so that we could enjoy ice cream sundaes. After our sweet break, we wandered the streets enjoying the architecture and interesting shops and markets.
We had great luck shopping at the boutiques on the island. Becky was able to find a lovely top and I got Thom the real Parisian scarf that he had wanted. One of my favorite jewelry lines, Sobral Design, has a brand store at 79, Rue Saint-Louis en lÎle on the island, so I was able to stock up on several fall pieces for my collection.
Next time I visit Paris, I think we will stay at Hotel Saint Louis en Isle – Hotel Saint Louis Paris (saintlouisenlisle.com). We were on our way to dinner and saw this hotel. Ducking in to check it out, the manager told us about his charming hotel and said he would be waiting for our return. They have a complimentary private shuttle from the airport/train for stays of 5 nights or more. Full of Parisian charm, experiencing Ile Saint Louis is a must do when you visit Paris. Enjoy the journey!
Oh, how I miss the cafe life in Paris! Seemingly on every corner there is a cute bistro with outside and inside seating serving affordable delicious food. Why would anyone cook when you can get your food here? The majority of cafes offer the standard fare including omelets, French onion soup, burgers, pomme frites aka fries and a wide variety of salads. Snails, charcuterie boards and crepes-sure, no problem!
We used the Google translator app on our phones to translate menus from French to English. Our apartment was in a local not tourist neighborhood and English menus weren’t a thing. This helped us avoid menu mistakes. Patti was going to order a salad with salmon until we saw it was smoked not cooked salmon. An older Parisian woman sitting next to us was smoking and drinking Chardonnay while enjoying a lunch of a small serving of smoked salmon. That’s it. No salad, no bread just raw protein. So Parisian!
The waiters were almost always male. Not sure why but just what I’ve observed over many trips all over Paris. Tipping is not a required thing, though if you get great service, some euros handed to the waiter won’t be refused. A basket of bread is usually served for free alongside your meal. You can ask for tap water, which is also free. The rude French service is really a myth. Now, if you present rude behavior then it may happen, but we had lovely service.
Travel tip: Don’t just sit down at a cafe. First, find a member of the wait staff and ask for a table and wait to be seated. They may ask if you want food or just drinks. Depending on time of day, they may not sit you if you aren’t ordering food. They will give you a menu or there will be a QR code to scan. TIP: Put down your menu and close it after you’ve made your food decision, and the waiter will then know to approach to take your order.
One night after a few missteps and lots of walking, we stumbled into a cafe with pizzas and when I spoke with the waiter to get a table and was told it would be a few minutes, I ordered a margherita pizza to get started baking for our very “hangry” group. He was the only waiter for the whole cafe, so the pizza came out before he took the rest of our order and before we had plates or drinks. Like hungry American animals who acted like we hadn’t eaten in days, we ripped into that pizza with our hands. Yum! Later we got our tableware and more food. This waiter was still nice to us despire our behavior, so he got a tip and a hearty Merci beaucoup!
Need to use the facilities? You can either buy a beverage at a cafe and then use the bathroom, usually found in the basement, or you can just march in like you are actually a customer and just don’t make eye contact. Facilities are just for customers, and I get that but there are times when you have to take charge and go.
One day we were at Giverny seeing Monet’s home and gardens and the next day we were at the Musee Marmottan seeing all the artwork that Monet’s son donated from Giverny so that the public could enjoy it and enjoy it we did on Girls Trip 2023 in Paris!
On the far west side of Paris where the tour buses don’t often go, the Musee Marmottan is rarely crowded and houses an extensive Monet collection that you most likely haven’t seen before. I’ve been to museums all over the world and always seek out any Monets they have on display, but this is definitely a rare collection that any Monet lover should see at least once. There were two paintings of his children-he had eight! There is also a collection of paintings done as he lost his vision, so the coloring is very different from his blues/greens of earlier periods. These paintings are much more vibrant in tones of red and yellows. In addition to the Monets (all on the lowest level), the house is filled with other works of art to be appreciated. Enjoy the journey!
I learned that the term “Impressionism” was coined by an art critic in a review of Monet’s piece, “Impression, Sunrise”, (pictured below), which hangs in Musee Marmottan. According to Wikipedia, Impressionism was a 19th-centuryart movement characterized by relatively small, thin, yet visible brush strokes, open composition, emphasis on accurate depiction of light in its changing qualities (often accentuating the effects of the passage of time), ordinary subject matter, unusual visual angles, and inclusion of movement as a crucial element of human perception and experience. Impressionism originated with a group of Paris-based artists whose independent exhibitions brought them to prominence during the 1870s and 1880s.
PLAN YOUR VISIT
The Musee Marmottan is open Tuesday-Sunday (closed Mondays as are many museums in Paris!) 10-6 but open late on Thursdays. Though I have been to this museum several times and it has never been busy, I like to go first thing in the morning or in the evening on Thursday. It’s so wonderful to go to a beautiful museum in Paris and not experience it crowded in with a million tourists’ shoulder to shoulder! Buy tickets online or at the museum. No gardens to work through so this is a great place to visit on a rainy Paris day. I would put aside several hours to enjoy all that this museum has to offer. The gift shop is nice but as well curated as the one at Giverny if you are a shopper.
Address: 2, rue Louis-Boilly, 75016 Paris – France
Public transportation:
Métro
line 9, stop: La Muette or Ranelagh
RER
line C, stop: Boulainvilliers
Buses
Line 22, stop: La Muette–Boulainvilliers
Line 32, stop: Louis Boilly or Ranelagh
Line 52, stop: La Muette–Boulainvilliers
Line 63, stop: Porte de la Muette
Line 70, stop : Louis-Boilly
Line P.C. 1, stop: Ernest Hebert or Porte de Passy
There are times to strike out on your own to explore while on vacation. There are other times when it makes sense to let someone else do the driving and handle all the details. Visiting Giverny on our Girls Trip 2023 was one of those times! After navigating our way around Paris by bus, Metro, walking, and an occasional taxi and Uber, we decided to book a guided bus tour to Giverny. In order to be efficient with our limited time in Paris, the 90-minute one-way bus ride from Paris to Giverny seemed to be better for us than a multi-hour Metro then RER train ride each way. The downfall of the tour was the early start time, which meant meeting our tour group at 8 am all the way across town, but it was all worthwhile once we gazed upon Monet’s lily ponds. Yes, it’s just that beautiful-see my photos below.
Uber works well in Paris, so we only had a short wait for our ride to pick us up from the apartment and take us to the tour meeting spot. The tour group arranged to meet at a cafe near the Eiffel Tower. Using the cafe facilities was essential because the bus had no restrooms. Our tour guide, Alex, was French but spoke excellent English. You book your tour group based on the language you want. As we drove to Giverny, Alex told us all about Monet, his family and stories of his successes and struggles. You could choose to sleep on the trip or use the headphones they provide to hear the tour guide. Good system. I listened. Becky slept. Seats reclined and seatbelts were required. Wish I had taken my travel blanket to be a little cozier on the trip!
Gliding along through the foggy and forested Paris countryside, I learned Monet grew up in Normandy, spent time in Algeria but got sick and returned to France to raise his family and work. Harmony, love and peace are all themes I see in Monet’s works, which is probably why he is my favorite artist. Seeing where he painted, it is not surprising to me that his home and grounds inspired him to create such beautiful, serene works of art.
Upon arrival at Giverny, our bus parked in the lot close to the estate and off we went to immerse ourselves in all things Monet. I had been there before with Thom, so I knew what to expect and looked forward to experiencing it again. Walking around the gardens and over the bridge at the water lily ponds, you feel like you are inside a famous Monet painting. It was still crowded with tourists, but we slowly made our way around taking so many pictures because everywhere you look, it is just so beautiful. The walk around the gardens ends at Monet’s house which you can walk through or just go straight to the large gift store like Becky did to shop to your heart’s content. Their selection of Monet themed items is extensive and well-priced so be prepared to find many “must have” items. I got another pillow for my travel collection, a kitchen towel and a mousepad, all of which I see daily to remind me of this special place.
Monet had eight kids and his house was large enough for his family. The paintings on the walls now are not originals. Monet’s son donated the entire art collection from the Giverny estate to the Marmottan – Monet Museum — Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, which houses the largest collection of Monet’s works and is another must see if you are a Monet fan. It’s a smaller museum housed in a beautiful building that tourists don’t usually frequent. We went there the day after our Giverny trip-another blog to come on that fabulous museum. Enjoy the journey!
TRAVEL TIP:
This is the tour that we took: From Paris: Giverny Day Trip with Audio Guide or Live Guide | GetYourGuide. I think it was well worth the $79 euros per person for the transportation convenience, estate entrance fees plus the guide’s storytelling on the history and stories of Monet. She really made the Monet experience come to life. I’m a Monet lover but never knew the details of his life. I enjoyed the fascinating stories of this colorful character!
Cautionary tale: If the tour guide says to meet at a certain time to leave or you will be left behind, they mean it. They have a schedule to keep to and they do keep it. So, plan your “free time” they give you so that you’re not standing in the toilette line when the bus is pulling out. Bye, bye! Our group left two people behind who weren’t punctual. What happened to them? Well, depending on how travel savvy they were, they could have texted or called the tour company and asked for forgiveness and inquired how they could get back to Paris. The afternoon tour could have offered them a ride home if they didn’t mind waiting five hours. If not, they’re would have been on their own to rent a taxi from Giverny to the train in the nearby town of Vernon to get back to Paris.
On the first day of our Girls Trip 2023, we went to the nearest Metro aka subway station in Paris and got our Navigo Decouverte card. Luckily, I had done the research and knew to go to the nearest Metro station (not a stop-you can tell the difference because a “station” has a name vs. just a Metro stop that has no sign). Even with no French language skills (despite months of trying to learn!), I was able to show the station attendant my picture for the card that I had brought, and he immediately knew that I wanted the Navigo Decouverte card. The card works on all public transportation for a week running from Monday through Sunday.
We arrived on a Sunday, so later in the day when we returned to the station to take the Metro to Montmartre, our passes weren’t working. The same worker was still on duty and called us over to patiently explain to the stupid American that the card didn’t start on a Monday, and we would have to buy paper tickets for individual rides until our passes became effective on Monday. So, I bought a book of 10 tickets for our use on Sunday ($20euros) and off we went!
As we made our way to the platform, we noticed a huge group of people waiting to board the train. Someone was saying there was a problem with that train and sure enough the doors closed with no passengers and off it went. The next train to arrive was, of course, then packed with people who had been waiting. In the crush, Becky and I got on and Patti did not. Oops! She was just too nice to elbow her way in while the Hoyt girls had no issues at all working our way onto the crowded car. When the doors closed with Patti still on the platform and us on the train, we quickly pantomimed to take it to the next stop where we could meet up. Then suddenly an alarm sounded, and the doors opened as someone had gotten their backpack caught in the doors and they had to open the doors to release it. (Metro warning sign below warns you not to get your body parts or bags caught in the doors!) Patti jumped in quickly and off we went on our Paris adventure. Yes, we still masked up (do you see how crowded it is!) and we did not get Covid on our trip. Yeah for vaccines and masks!
We also used the excellent bus system to get around Paris. We used various apps to review our route and find our nearest bus stop. Did we get lost and take the wrong bus? Of course! This type of mistake can be viewed as additional sightseeing time in Paris. We got dumped off at Gare de Nord train station, which is not the loveliest neighborhood to be walking around, but luck was on our side as we quickly found a bus headed in the right direction and jumped on. Make sure you look at the front of the bus to see if the route destination on the top reader board of the bus is indeed the one you want. Once on the bus, there is usually but not always an electronic sign that shows the next stop so you can time when to get off the bus. If that isn’t working, then make sure you are following each stop and comparing to the bus route sign that is posted in every bus. Don’t be intimidated-hop a ride and see the city. Enjoy the journey!
TRAVEL TIPS: when you are in a group travelling by Metro, have a plan in case someone gets left behind. It happens! Make sure to stay tight, lock arms and push on together to get to where you are going. I learned this lesson from riding the China subways where overcrowding is prevalent. One time I even had to lock arms with a stranger to push our way through a mob to avoid getting trampled. All this never scared me off public transportation. You just have to be aware and take appropriate actions to survive!
Tap to pay using your transportation card to get through the gates of the Metro or the payment machine on the bus. Note: it doesn’t make a sound or give you a green check on the Metro gate-just tap and push through. If you double tap, you will get a red “X” warning, and you will not be able to get through. This is because they want to prevent people from using their Metro card once and then handing it to a friend to use next. If you get the red X and can’t get through, go to the manned Service counter (if there is one at that station) and they can let you in through the manual gate. If you are not at a staffed Service station, then you will have to go to the machine and buy a ticket to get through and continue your journey.
Alternatives to public transportation: Uber works well in Paris, and we used it when not on public transportation. At night coming home from the Moulin Rouge or the Trocadero after seeing the Eiffel Tower at night, those Ubers did come in handy. We rarely waited more than five minutes to get our ride. If you are out just walking around and decide to get an Uber, just find a cafe to use as your location so the Uber can easily locate you!
Several times we did wave down a taxi on the street that had a green light on but don’t count on that. I would recommend you download the G7 app that allows you to book a ride up to 14 days in advance or use for on demand rides! Different levels of services are available, and you can choose the one you want when you order your ride. Payment can be made via the app or with the driver.
TOP TRAVEL APPS TO FIND YOUR WAY AROUND PARIS
Rome2Rio: discover how to get anywhere is an app that I have used in many different European places and all across the US. My favorite app! You just input that you want to go from Point A to Point B and it searches any city, town, landmark, attraction or address across the globe with thousands of routes to easily get you from A to B. It gives you timetables and estimated pricing for all types of transportation-tram, bus, subway, train, taxi, etc. If you decide to walk, it tells you how long it will take and helps guide you around that way too.
Citymapper – The Ultimate Transport App Citymapper is a free public transit app with mapping that displays transport options, usually with live timing, between any two locations in a supported city. Similar to Rome2Rio but very helpful for getting around by any means of transportation from e-scooters to walking to biking to subways. I like this app best for getting around by foot.
Google Maps can be used to navigate around town. This is the app my husband likes best.
“Your hair is tres magnifique!” Well, thank you very much Mr. Moulin Rouge Bouncer. After complimenting my coiffure, he let our group into the lobby more than one hour before our show time. We showed up WAY early. My research indicated that you must queue up early because it is first come, first serve to get the best seats since we didn’t order dinner and had no seat assignments. Well, by the time we stood in line and got back to the table concierge who was assigning the seats, he took one look at our tickets and told us we would have to leave and come back in 20 minutes. Oops-the bouncer was distracted by my hair and messed up. It happens. I pleaded that they had sent us back to be seated and it wasn’t our fault. Worked like a charm and we got to sit in the lovely bar area right by the main hall to wait our turn with a kind gent giving me a complimentary wine and some Parisian potato chips. Ooh la la! We started chatting with one of the tour guides who was also hanging out there and he took our picture before we finally were summoned to go to our teeny tiny table wedged into the first balcony. The adventure began!
The Paris icon, Moulin Rouge, which translates to “Red Mill”, was built in 1889 the same year as the Eiffel Tower and it was on Patti’s “must see” list for our Girls Trip 2023. It is situated below the Montmartre neighborhood in Pigalle. This famous cabaret show features elaborately dressed topless show girls. Yes, it is expensive and not everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s been around for over a hundred years so it’s legendary. Patti has extensive costume design experience, and she spent the show marveling at all the finery and wondering how chaotic the backstage was with all the costume changes. You wouldn’t think that it would be so complicated when the top half is largely bare but the headpieces, elaborate appendages (think huge lips or feather tendrils) alone are complicated. I wish I could share pictures of every one of the costumes. Alas, while pictures before the show were supposed to be taboo, the staff mostly looked the other way. However, no pictures were allowed once the show started, and customers complied.
What’s in the show? Well, Moulin Rouge is well known for the Can Can and the bare ta tas and g-strings but it’s so much more. There are 20-30 beautiful showgirls, all thin and all with long ponytails. No diversity to speak of in the cast. There are about 10-20 guys who lift up the dancers and who keep on their colorful outfits. No bare skin on the boys! All of the cast is very talented whether dancing, singing or performing various feats of gymnastics or ballet. In between the singing/dancing showgirl numbers, there are skilled acts to allow time for the cast to change. These skilled acts were marvelous and included two male gymnasts with incredible moves lifting up one in various poses requiring muscles of steel and a lovely interpretative dance.
One scary act (at least for those watching!) involved two roller skaters on a small round platform on the stage with the male twirling around the female crazy fast. A good reason to not sit in the main section by the stage where those who buy dinner sit. At any moment with one wrong move, that woman would have gone flying into the crowd, steel wheels gouging your eyes out. I held my breath for that act, but they were amazing. If you don’t like people being held by a wire flying close over your head, don’t sit too close to the stage as a charming couple sang a song while flying barely above the crowd. Same goes for getting wet…yes, the dance floor (to use when the pre-show band entertains) becomes a huge water tank rising out of the floor during the show. The topless dancer fell into the pool (you knew that was coming!) and the mermaid entertained AND cooled down the audience with water flying everywhere nearby.
The showgirl numbers feature a wide variety of music-everything from disco Gloria Gaynor’s I Will Survive to big band hits like In The Mood, which was my mom and dad’s song. I felt like they were there with my sisters and I. Dad would have loved the show and my mom would have blushed at the skimpy costumes while she sipped Sidecars. I miss my mom and dad and think of them often when travelling. I wish they could have seen more of the world when they were alive. I certainly plan to! #YOLO
We didn’t book the dinner package, though it looked pretty good as the servers went by. We also didn’t get a bottle of champagne, a popular package. Instead, we went ala carte, and I ordered a glass of wine ($15) and Patti got a cocktail ($20). Enjoy the journey!
Travel tips:
The tables are very close together with no room to pass by without everyone standing up, so plan ahead to go to the facilities before the show starts. Once the show begins, there is really no getting up from your table without really inconveniencing everyone in your way between your table and the exit.
As soon as house lights come up hit “reserve” for an Uber. There were lots of available Ubers when we were there but it was a mad dash to get to street to find ours and yes, it was chaos with the early show getting out and the late show crowd arriving. We crossed the street and managed to find our Uber circling around looking for us.
Show Details
At the Moulin Rouge, shows run every day of the week and there are 2 shows every day:
9 pm show with optional dinner starting at 7 pm (dinner show ticket holders will get the best seats)
11 pm show only no dinner available
Plan to arrive early! These shows are usually sold out, so arrive at the entrance one hour before the time of your show. Doors close ten minutes before the start of the show and you won’t be allowed to enter if you arrive late. There is no refund policy for Moulin Rouge tickets. Plan your transportation and allow, as always, for the Paris traffic jams that are bad at all hours.
Buy your Moulin Rouge tickets as soon as you book your travel dates. You never know when travel groups will suck up all the available tickets, as this show is always on their itineraries. You can buy direct from Moulin Rouge (Official Website) for tickets for all showtimes and options. If, for whatever reason, you don’t want to buy the tickets there, you can also book through Viator: Paris Moulin Rouge Cabaret Show with Champagne Only or Dinner 2023 (viator.com) but not all options like the 9 pm show are available.
Getting there
Of course, you can walk there or take the Metro aka subway. I prefer to get around Paris during the day by walking or Metro. However, you’ll be there in the evening and the Pigalle neighborhood is probably not the best place to wander around late at night. Known for being a tourist magnet, you can imagine that all kinds of folks would frequent here around showtimes to take advantage of people visiting Paris. I would recommend using an Uber, which works quite well in Paris. I have not had great luck with taxi apps in Paris working so that, at least for me, taxis won’t be an option. If you do take the Metro, the closest station to Moulin Rouge is Blanche on Metro line 2.
No trip to Paris would be complete without checking out the Eiffel Tower. It is an icon and a masterpiece of engineering. Whether you just walk by or you go for the whole guided tour, skip the line ticket, dining at the restaurants on the first or second levels or the champagne at the top package, you MUST experience the Eiffel Tower in some shape or form.
The Eiffel Tower was created to be the centerpiece of the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris. With 60+ million visitors a year, the Eiffel Tower is the tallest building in Paris (about 81 stories high). For our 30th anniversary several years ago, Thom and I celebrated the milestone with a trip up to the top. With a combination of tickets to use the elevators and access the top floors, we enjoyed the view and took some amazing pictures to memorialize the moment. We ended up going the less travelled route as usual by walking down the steps all by ourselves for awhile. We wandered around the park underneath, enjoyed seeing the carousel and went back to the Trocadero at night to see the tower light up and twinkle, which it does every night for just for 5 minutes. Get there in advance so you don’t miss it! The night we were there, it was also a full moon which made for an amazing view.
This time on our Girls Trip 2023, we decided to skip the trip up the tower due to some issues with the ladies not liking heights. Instead, we jumped off the Batobus boat, got off at the Eiffel Tower pier and walked around the grounds admiring it from the bottom up. Well, at least as much as we could, given the “sprucing up” that Paris was doing to get ready for the 2024 Olympics coming up. There is a lot of construction going on all around town. Paris will shine in 2024. Enjoy the journey!
PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE EIFFEL TOWER TRAVEL TIPS:
Book tickets well in advance from official site (they go on sale two months in advance) for the experience you want. Once you’ve booked them, you cannot change or exchange your e-tickets. All purchases are final. So double check before hitting that “purchase” button to make sure you have right date/time. Prices/times may vary so I won’t quote any here. Just go to the site and check it out.
You can print tickets or show on your phone just as long as barcode can be scanned. Bring ID for everyone as you may get asked to show it (even for children).
You do have to go through security checks so don’t bring anything that will prevent you from going in like luggage-small bags okay but not big ones.
There are free toilets on every floor (1st, 2nd and top). Use the facilities here because there are practically no toilets on the grounds around the Eiffel Tower. Believe me-I searched and found one defective pod toilet where the door wasn’t closing all the way so my sister stood in front of it so I could use it.
Go during the day AND at night. These are very different experiences. Lights start twinkling after sundown (depends on time of year) on the hour for five minutes (so get there early) and until midnight.
Walk up/down at least some stairs to get a feel for the structure. There are 1665 steps to the top so probably plan on a combo of getting elevator tickets and walking some sections for a well rounded experience. There are only 328 steps to the first floor-you can do it! Thom and I did this and loved it. Lots of good pictures taken too.
GETTING THERE:
ADDRESS:
Champ de Mars, 5 Avenue Anatole France, 75007 Paris, France
On the day of your visit, allow A LOT of extra time to get there. Surface street traffic in Paris is always bad so if you are coming by taxi or Uber, you will get stuck in traffic. I’ve never before gotten a text from Uber that said “we see you haven’t moved in 20 minutes, are you alright?” until I recently went to Paris and then I got it several times. One trip that was predicted by the app to take 20 minutes took two hours. Not kidding! Poor driver did not make money on that trip but we did trip him 20 euros for not kicking us out.
I would recommend using the Metro (Lines 6, 8 or 9) to get close and then walking. Other options: Bus (line 42 or 82/closest bust stop is Bir-Hakeim), take a scenic boat ride (we took the BatoBus Seine River hop on, hop off and they have a stop at the Eiffel Tower), or RER train line 3 (get off at Champs de Mars station). Map below courtesy of official Eiffel Tower site.
Hop aboard let’s take a ride! There is no better way to spend your first full day in Paris than to take the Batobus hop on, hop off boat down the River Seine. Glide under historic bridges, see all the big museums from a river perspective and, of course, gaze in awe upon the iconic Eiffel Tower. On our Girls Trip 2023, we rode up and down the river enjoying all the sights-what a great way to get around Paris!
Not knowing what the weather would be like, we waited until we arrived in Paris and checked the forecast before heading out on our first full day with the intent to enjoy a boat ride and see the sights. Pulling up the website on my cell as we walked along the river, I found their nearest stop on www.batobus.com/. Our first planned “hop off” was at the Eiffel Tower. As it was early, we didn’t see any boats on the river yet and sure enough, the boat routes don’t begin until 10 am. You will learn soon enough that in Paris everything starts later in the day then in the US so enjoy sleeping in. Specialty shops are usually open 11-7 with a lunch break taken around 1-2. As many small shops are run by one person, they will close during their lunch hour. Coffee shops don’t open up at 6 am like their American counterparts-more like 7-8 am. Plan accordingly!
The Batobus ticket office that we found on the river walk wasn’t open yet, so as the boat pulled up to their designated dock, only those who had already purchased their tickets online were allowed on. As fast as I could get the tickets purchased on my cell wasn’t fast enough for the boat ticket taker who took off without us and we waited 20 minutes for the next one, our online tickets secured. We got the one-day pass for $20 euros, which is good for 24 hours from the time you buy it so it could technically span two days with careful planning of the purchase at a mid-day time. Boats run 10 am-7 pm on a designated route with stops at: Eiffel Tower, Invalides, Musee D’Orsay, Saint-Germain-Des-Pres, Notre Dame, Jardin Des Plantes, Hotel De Ville, Louvre, and Place De La Concorde.
Travel tip: don’t count on using the facilities on the boats-they have no bathrooms! There are seats under both open roof areas and closed roof areas depending on if you want sun on you or not. It was a hot day when we were there, so we opted for shady seats, going to the back where it was open to take pictures as we cruised by the various sites along the way.
Depending on the time of year that you visit, you’ll see the local Parisians and tourists lining the banks of the River Seine hanging out and socializing. Bring some food and wine, hope off the boat and join them to watch the world go by on the river and soak up the ambience. Stroll the street level sidewalks by the river in between boat stops to get some exercise and check out the classic green stalls filled with souvenirs, books, art and magazines.
You can take a really nice shot of the Eiffel Tower as the boat glides by. We hopped off, walked around the Eiffel Tower as best we could since there were lots of fences up and construction going on to prep for the 2024 Olympics. The Olympic countdown clock was near the dock, so we checked it out. I’m excited to watch the Olympics in Paris next year knowing we were just there enjoying this beautiful city. Hopping back on, we went up the river and around the islands in the middle of the river, île Saint-Louis and île de la Cité, which was more on the side of the city where our apartment was located. Plan an all day boat ride or just a few hours, but definitely take a ride on the River Seine while you are in Paris. Enjoy the journey!
Want a great view of Paris AND lots of cafes and shops? Well then head on over to Montmartre in the northern 18th arrondissement on the Right Bank of the Seine. Whether it’s gelato or wine, you’ll find refreshments galore to keep your energy up while you sit in café Le Consultat on rue Norvins, which has hosted famous artists such as Dali and Toulouse-Lautrec, and people watch. For Girls Trip 2023, we made Montmartre our first stop to get the lay of the land and soak up the Parisian atmosphere. Bon jour!
How to get there? The most unique way is to ride the funicular up the steep hillside. You will need a ticket to go on, purchased there or you can use the Metro aka subway/bus paper tickets too or your Navigo card, which we got to use all week on mass transit around town. It takes one ticket up and one ticket to go down. They pack them in there, but it beats walking up the hundreds of steps unless you want to get the exercise! I’ve only walked up on past trips to Paris, so it was fun to finally try the funicular. It’s nice to have alternatives depending on how you are feeling. Since we usually do 20,000+ steps a day when we visit Paris, there may be times you just want a ride up!
Famous artists such as Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Edgar Degas and Pablo Picasso lived in Montmartre and were inspired by this beautiful area. Who wouldn’t be??? Patti is the artistic one in our girls’ group, and I know if we had more time there, she would have had an easel out in the square like the many artists who were doing landscapes and portraits. Perhaps get an original sketch as a souvenir to take home and hang on your wall as a reminder of your wonderful trip? We’ve bought artwork before when we travel and love seeing it daily as a reminder of our journey. You can pick up a cardboard tube at local art supply stores to carry your treasure home safely.
Once you get up to the top, when you aren’t shopping or dining, you can enjoy Sacre Coeur Basilica pictured above. Completed in 1914, Sacre Coeur is a Roman Catholic church that is free to visit and where religious masses are still held frequently. Inside and outside, it is stunning. You do have to go through security but there is no admission fee. From the fabulous stained glass and sculptures to the various crypts and chapels to explore, there is so much to see and appreciate but the centerpiece is the dome, which, according to Wikipedia, symbolizes the celestial world, resting upon a rectangular space, symbolizing the terrestrial world. The two are joined by massive columns, which represent the passage between the two worlds. If you don’t mind walking up a lot (300+) steps, you can climb the Dome for a spectacular view. Note: no elevator.
Outside on the steps, thousands of people gather at any time but especially to watch the sun set over Paris. It’s a party! Bring snacks, wine and settle in to enjoy the company of thousands as you gaze over the rooftops of Paris. Enjoy the journey!
GETTING AROUND SACRE COEUR AND MONTMARTRE
After the Eiffel Tower, this is one of the most popular tourist destinations so plan your visit accordingly. Come at the end of the day for a stunning sunset view or early in the morning to avoid the crowds.
We saw lots of taxis on the streets in Montmartre. If you see one with a green light, hail it and it just might stop for you if it doesn’t already have a ride booked through their app (G7). We used Uber all over Paris with usually only a 5 minute on average wait time.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Sacre Coeur is accessible by bus or metroline 2 at Anvers station. Sacré-Cœur Basilica is open from 06:00 to 22:30 every day and the dome is accessible from 10:00 to 19:00.
Montmartre is served by these Métro lines:
Line 2 stations at Barbès-Rochechouart, Anvers, Pigalle and Blanche
Line 4 stations at Château Rouge and Barbès–Rochechouart
Line 12 stations at Pigalle, Abbesses, Lamarck–Caulaincourt (one of the most photographed metro stations because of its iconic Parisian charm) and Jules Joffrin.
It is also served by the Montmartre Funicular, operated by the RATP, which ascends the hill from the south while the Montmartre bus circles the hill. (Wikipedia)
It’s time to finalize the details for our Girls’ Trip to Paris 2023! We visited London and Florence the past two years on our annual trip and had a blast. Now it’s time to take on the City of Lights. I’ve been to Paris several times, both on business trips and personal vacations, but Becky and Patti will be seeing Paris for the first time. How special! I get to lean in on all my past experiences and take them to all the truly magical places in Paris. I look forward to seeing Paris through their “first time” lens. I predict love at first sight. Come along on our journey!
For each Girls’ Trip, I act as the trip planner and the first thing I want to know is what is the one “must see” for each person on the trip. Then, I can research those experiences and work our trip itinerary around them. Here are our three “must see” places for our trip to Paris:
AN EVENING CABARET SHOW AT THE MOULIN ROUGE
The Moulin Rouge, which translates to “Red Mill”, was built in 1889, the same year as the Eiffel Tower. It is situated below the Montmartre neighborhood in Pigalle. This famous cabaret show features elaborately dressed yet topless show girls. Admittedly this might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s been around for over a hundred years so it’s legendary and we love all music and theater so this will be quite the experience!
Show Details
At the Moulin Rouge, shows run every day of the week and there are 2 shows every day:
9 pm show with optional dinner starting at 7 pm (dinner show ticket holders will get the best seats)
11 pm show only
Plan to arrive early! These shows are usually sold out so arrive at the entrance one hour before the time of your show. Doors close ten minutes before the start of the show, and you won’t be allowed to enter if you arrive late. There is no refund policy for Moulin Rouge tickets so arrange your transportation and allow, as always, for the Paris traffic jams that are bad at all hours.
Buy your Moulin Rouge tickets as soon as you book your travel dates. You never know when travel groups will suck up all the available tickets, as this show is always on their itineraries. You can buy direct from Moulin Rouge (Official Website) for tickets to all showtimes and options. If, for whatever reason, you don’t want to buy the tickets there, you can also book through Viator: Paris Moulin Rouge Cabaret Show with Champagne Only or Dinner 2023 (viator.com) but not all options like the 9 pm show are available on this site. Prices vary depending on the date/time you go but, when I was researching our tickets, they were as follows: $240 euros for the 7 pm Dinner+Show; $178 euros for the 9 pm Show Only; $133 euros for the 11 pm Show Only. I would say this is fairly on par pricing as compared with a Las Vegas or Broadway show.
Getting there
Of course, you can walk there or take the Metro aka subway. This is how I prefer to get around Paris during the day. However, you’ll be there in the evening and the Pigalle neighborhood is probably not the best place to wander around late at night. Known for being a tourist magnet, you can imagine that all kinds of folks would frequent here around showtimes to take advantage of people visiting Paris. I would recommend using an Uber, which works quite well in Paris. I have not had great luck with taxi apps in Paris working so, at least for me, taxis won’t be an option. If you do take the Metro, the closest station to Moulin Rouge is Blanche on Metro line 2.
AFTERNOON WALK ON THE LEFT BANK
The Left Bank is a special place best enjoyed in an afternoon walk about. First, grab some wine, cheese, fruit (figs if they are in season), sandwiches and a baguette-all at different small stores specializing in their product. Take your goodies to Luxembourg Gardens aka Jardin du Luxembourg for a picnic and people watching. There are benches and tables scattered throughout this beautiful park. Watch people sail model boats on the central pond, which served as an inspiration for a similar one in Central Park in NYC-another favorite place of mine. Then, find the Medici Fountain and take lots of pictures at this idyllic spot. Instagram worthy!
It’s just a short walk fifteen-minute from Luxembourg Garden to Shakespeare & Co., THE bookstore to visit when in Paris. After grabbing a travel book and getting it officially stamped with their logo inside, it’s time for a cappuccino at the nearest café. Then, take a ten-minute walk from Shakespeare & Co. to the Pantheon (I’m a Midnight in Paris fan!) for a tour of this iconic monument and symbol of the French Revolution built in the 18th century. We’ll visit the crypt which houses the remains of Victor Hugo, Voltaire, and Marie Curie and climb up to the dome to see the panoramic views of the city.
DAY TRIP TO MONET’S HOUSE IN GIVERNY
As lovers of art and especially Monet, we will take the time to do a side trip from Paris to Giverny to walk the lily gardens, stroll through the artist’s house and studio, and immerse ourselves in all things Monet. I was there a few years ago and took the pictures above. It was like being in a Monet painting on this lovely day.
We will wander the fields with haystacks and walk through the house and gardens. The lily ponds in person look exactly like Monet’s paintings-so surreal. Giverny sits at the confluence of the river Seine and the river Epte in the region of Normandy. While the big draw in Giverny is Monet’s garden and home, this village has existed since neolithic times and there is a church dating from the Middle Ages to explore as well as a Museum of Impressionism and plenty of cafes and shops.
Buy tickets:
Monet’s gardens are open every day including public holidays from 9.30 am to 6 pm from April 1st through November 1st. Buy timed entry tickets online at Claude Monet’s house in Giverny. They do have a great store there so bring a bag to carry home some souvenirs.
How to get there:
Giverny is 75KM (47 miles) from Paris and 4KM (2.5 miles) from the small town of Vernon where the train will stop coming from the Saint-Lazare Paris station. The fastest trains (don’t book a “local” with many stops) complete the journey in about an hour. Book your train ticket from Paris to Giverny here: Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com). You could also take a bus or drive, but we will take the train ride to sit back, relax and see the French countryside. When Giverny is open, a shuttle bus will take you from the train station to Giverny’s parking lot. The round-trip costs 10 euros and only takes about 15 minutes. You can buy your ticket on board.
If you really want to walk, it’s about 5KM or 3 miles and mostly flat following the tracks of an ancient railroad. Go down the Albufera street and cross the bridge over the Seine. At the roundabout ignore the signs for Giverny which are meant for cars. Go straight on, cross the first street “Route de Giverny” and take the pathway to your right just before the drugstore. Enjoy the journey!
Travels with Melinda 