Shopping in London

If you like to shop, London is calling you! From vintage to designer, there is something for everybody. Even though I have been to London several times, I’m always finding new stores, neighborhoods, markets and towns to explore. On this trip, as in several previous trips, we had to buy an additional suitcase to bring home all our goodies that we found. Since we get free bag check, it’s cheaper than shipping it home. Next trip (to Italy in May!), we are taking a new fold-up bag, so we are prepared to bring home more treasures that we find on our shopping adventures without having to buy new luggage-I’m running out of luggage storage room!

DEPARTMENT STORES

UPSCALE

Harrods | The World’s Leading Luxury Department Store is THE luxury department store in London that you must visit just to check out even if you don’t have the $$$ to buy designer duds. They do have a nice souvenir department in the lower level where you can find reasonable items. Make sure you check out the food hall with so many tasty options. Word of caution-jam/honey/mustard is considered a liquid (anything that spreads!) when you are leaving London and have to go through security, so pack those goodies away in checked bags or you’ll be sad when they confiscate it from your carry-on.

My new favorite store is Fortnum and Mason, a luxury department store with floor after floor of amazing housewares, including their famous picnic hampers and foodie merchandise. Founded in 1707 as a grocery store, the flagship Picadilly store is beautifully decorated, especially during the holidays, and has been a shopping destination for the Royals, as in Queens and such. After our initial shopping trip where we picked up “biscuits” aka cookies, they were so good that we picked up some additional biscuits or as I now call them “bites of heaven” at their outlet in St. Pancras train station. They also have a shop in Terminal 3 at Heathrow, where we picked up cute British cars stuffed with fudge for the grandkids on our way home. Who’s the best NaiNai and GiGi?? Yep, the people who bring back the best souvenirs and tasy treats to share. I particularly love the F & M premium packaging, from curved beautifully decorated boxes filled with dark chocolate biscuits to their tea tins and musical containers. There are gifts for all ages. If you get hungry while you shop (and don’t we all?), they have a fancy tearoom, a food hall with every kind of food, a wine bar and a café serving famous ice cream confections. Cheers!

Thom had never been to Liberty, a luxury department store located in the West End near Carnaby Street, so we had to go on this trip. The façade of this mock-Tudor building with its ages old timbers is absolutely beautiful and the inside doesn’t disappoint either with wood floors and an atrium that is always spectacularly decorated for the holidays. This merchant is known for its fabrics, housewares and fashion. Founded in 1875, Liberty supports new and emerging designers within its historic walls.

After wandering around Liberty, we headed over to Carnaby Street which is filled with specialty shops like Levi’s which we didn’t need to shop at, but I did visit Doc Martens, a British classic. Thom has a pair of these, purchased after he saw Bruce Springsteen wearing them at a concert (of course, right?), and I have always wanted a pair, so I finally decided to just go for it. YOLO and all. It helped that they had a really cool limited-edition Year of the Dragon tassel loafer style that I can’t wait to wear. Unfortunately, we took public transportation everywhere in London and you do NOT want to wear nice shoes on the Tube. On one Tube trip, a guy was asleep and had a latte on the floor precariously wedged between his feet and it eventually tipped over after a hard stop and spilled all over Thom’s shoes. Thom was just glad it wasn’t vomit but that experience convinced me that the Tube is not the best place for my beautiful new Docs.

REGULAR FOLK DEPARTMENT STORES

Your everyday Londoner does not shop at the fancy department stores like Harrod’s or, if they do, they are rich. Popular go-to places to get clothes for most people are Primark and Marks and Spencer. There are many locations of these stores all over town. Have fun buying reasonably priced outfits and accessories to take home.

SPECIALTY STORES

VINYL

Vinyl lovers should bring an empty suitcase in London. You could spend a week visiting all the vinyl stores located all over London. Check out this good list: 56 Best Record Stores in London by Neighborhood | Discogs – Record Stores.

On this trip, we checked out Third Man Records, which is musician Jack White’s cool space in Soho. “Mind your head” is not just a sign but a caution as the entry to the basement section of this shop has a very low doorway that unfortunately Thom had hard contact with resulting in a big bump on his head. Not only do they have vinyl but a nice assortment of merch and a book machine plus a jam (for playing music not eating a delightful spread for toast) area.

Every 1st and 3rd Friday of the month, go to the Vinyl Market (oldspitalfieldsmarket.com) to find some good bargains. On my last Girls Trip to London, I was able to find Thom a Bruce Springsteen concert bootleg album that seemed pretty rare. Score!

BOOKSTORES

The Hatchards Bookstore in Piccadilly was founded in 1797 and is London’s oldest bookshop and bookseller to the Royal households. When you sell merch to the Royals, a store gets to display a sign on the outside of their store that is a Royal Warrant. Hatchards has three Royal Warrants. They have lots of stores but the five-story location in Picadilly is the one to visit-it is beautiful and located next to Fortnum and Mason, one of my other favorite stores. It is also opposite the Royal Academy, which is worth a visit to see their museum (and a good place to use the bathrooms!).

Check the Hatchards online site for book signings. They also have in their assortment first and special edition books for the collectors. A book is always a good idea for yourself or to take home for a present.

OPTICAL STORES

MOSCOT Beak Street Shop in the Soho district has a fantastic assortment of frames to pick from. Thom and I both have sported Moscot frames in the past and they not only look great but are super well-made and comfortable. Buying frames wherever we travel is one of my favorite souvenirs. I take the frames home to my local Costco optical and get my prescription lenses put in. Every time I wear my new glasses, I remember my vacation!

On this trip, we discovered a new brand of frames that have lots of fashion styles to pick from at reasonable (about $150 GBP) prices. Buy Eyeglasses | Designer Eyeglasses For Men & Women – Jimmy Fairly (UK) has locations all over London and the suburbs like Hampstead. I love that they have an espresso machine in their stores and offer shots as you shop. Get all caffeinated up and buy some frames to take home!

MUSEUM GIFT SHOPS

I have to call out museum gift shops because I have gotten some of my favorite gifts there to take back home. Usually well priced, every museum in London has at least one if not multiple gift shops with everything from pillow covers (British Library) to Winston Churchill rubber duckies (Churchill Rooms) to booze (all of them have hard liquor including Buckingham Palace, which had an unusually large selection of sloe gin-why?). So, make sure you take time to check out the merch at the museums!

STREETS/NEIGHBORHOODS

Regent Street London – Shopping – Dining – Wellness (regentstreetonline.com) is a major shopping street in the West End of London. It runs from Waterloo place at the south end through Picadilly Circus and Oxford Circus to All Souls Church. Retailers who can afford this pricey real estate have their London flagship stores here. Check out technology at the Apple Store or the Microsoft Experience Center and then shop for fashion at practically every retailer you could want.

MARKETS

There are so many cool markets in London that you can’t possibly visit them all in one trip so every time we come, we try to at least go to one or two. On this trip, we made it to Covent Garden and Spitalfield’s. Come to these markets hungry and ready to shop. Enjoy the journey!

San Diego Holiday Cheer!

We were in San Diego the first weekend in December when it seemed like everywhere you looked there were holiday events taking place-on Coronado, in Balboa Park, at Seaport Village, and the streets of Little Italy. Definitely a beautiful time to enjoy warm weather and experience holiday cheer while walking along the beach!

We are thinking of bringing one or both of the grandkids with us on future trips here, so everywhere we went, we were on the lookout for experiences and places that they would enjoy. San Diego is an awesome place for kids of all ages. Here are some of the places we’ll go with the grandkids when the time is right:

CORONADO

We would definitely stay at the Hotel del Coronado with the grandkids. This historic property dating back to the 1800’s is a resort filled with everything you would want-pools, onsite gelato and candy store, many restaurants, etc. At the holidays, there is a real ice-skating rink and gorgeous decorations to enjoy as well.

After walking through the property several times and sitting in the rocking chairs on the veranda, we made a vow to stay here next time we come to San Diego, hopefully with the grandkids in tow. They seem to offer a variety of rooms/suites though we were definitely eyeing the ground floor with a patio that included nice seating around a fire pit and ocean view. How much could it cost?? Hotel del Coronado | San Diego’s Legendary Beach Resort.

What else is there to do in Coronado by the resort? Take a stroll down the beachfront and watch the surfers. While we were there, they had posted a warning not to get into the water due to issues with pollution in the water but while that warning deterred swimmers, the surfers were still out there. We even saw a pod of dolphins having fun in the surf too. I hope the polluted waters didn’t hurt any of them.

When you are hungry or ready to shop, walk Orange Avenue on Coronado which is lined with boutiques, cafes and even a large grocery store and Walgreen’s. Everything you could need is located on this one main boulevard. They even have a small movie theater showing the latest flicks and a theater with live performances.

BALBOA PARK AREA Home – Balboa Park

The 18 museums in/near Balboa Park are great for any rainy days or when you need to get out of the sun for a while. The park is free, but the museums do charge admissions. If you want to go to several, consider buying a pass that is good for 7 days-details on museum pass here: Explore | Balboa Park Explorer; About | Balboa Park Explorer

Our grandkids would definitely enjoy:

Comic-Con Museum – The Magic of Comic-Con, All Year Round (not included in the Balboa Park Museum pass)

San Diego Air & Space Museum – Historical Balboa Park, San Diego (sandiegoairandspace.org)

The San Diego Zoo is considered part of Balboa Park. We plan to spend an entire day at the zoo with the grandkids-first, it is expensive, and you want to get your money’s worth, but it is so massive and there is so much to see that it deserves a whole day and not just a few hours. Get on your walking shoes, wear your sunscreen, and get ready to see the animals. Plan Your Visit | San Diego Zoo

If we are able to visit San Diego in December, we will take the kids to see the annual theater performance of The Grinch Who Stole Christmas at the Old Globe Theater in Balboa Park Home | The Old Globe  This is a favorite movie for both of them!

EMBARCADERO

Embarcadero is a Spanish word for “landing place” and San Diego’s Embarcadero is a scenic waterfront area with a rich maritime history and culture that runs next to San Diego Bay. We stayed at the Marriott Marquis Marina, which is right on the Embarcadero, so we were able to walk this area quite a bit. We even got on a two-seater bike courtesy of our hotel and biked the waterfront. So. Fun. Here are the highlights of the Embarcadero area:

I think our grandkids might enjoy taking a tour of this enormous aircraft carrier and hearing about its history. This experience would definitely take several hours at least. After visiting the USS Midway, it’s a quick walk over to the Seaport Village which is a great place for lunch.

Worth an afternoon to shop and enjoy the various restaurants by the water at Seaport Village. We dined with relatives at the Edgewater Grill that has indoor and outdoor seating with direct water views but there are also casual taco and pizza places. Very nice!

The San Diego Symphony’s home stage, the Rady Bandshell also have a variety of other programs so check out their event schedule online before your trip. It is outside seating so even though the weather is usually perfect in San Diego, check for rain first before buying tickets and in the winter, it gets cold at night so bring a blanket. San Diego Symphony – The Official Travel Resource for the San Diego Region

DOWNTOWN SAN DIEGO

There are lots of historic sites, shopping, restaurants, and museums in downtown San Diego to check out. Got kids and you need to get out of the sun/rain? The New Children’s Museum | Think, Play, Create (thinkplaycreate.org) is a few blocks away from the Marriott Marquis Marina where we stayed this trip and also next to a great children’s outdoor playground.

I would recommend you take the Trolley Tour and hop on, hop off downtown if you see spots you want to visit. I would NOT recommend you randomly stroll around downtown on your own like we did. Even veteran urban dwellers like us who love to do this should not if they are not familiar with the area. On this trip, we decided to walk from our hotel to Little Italy on a Saturday to check out the farmer’s market there. We randomly chose a path that unknowingly took us right by the downtown jail and through a deserted section of town since it was Saturday, and no workers were around. Confronted by a person masked and dealing with obvious mental health issues in an underpass, we were able to get away and stay calm but even my New Yorker husband was rattled by the close call that could have gotten ugly quickly. So, take the trolley and enjoy the city but always be checking your surroundings and have a plan in case you get into a situation.

Our trolley driver told us that the Gaslamp Quarter is THE place to party into the wee hours in San Diego. They close off Fifth Avenue to traffic from 11 am to 3 am so everyone can just parade down the street going from bar to bar. We were so tired from walking during the day that even our best laid plans to try out a Speakeasy on Fifth Avenue did not happen. Next time if we don’t have the grandkids!

The Little Italy neighborhood is a great place to enjoy their Saturday farmer’s market (come hungry-there are lots of enticing food stalls!) and also many restaurants to savor. We got real Italian cookies (think buttery, chocolate and tasty) at the Italian grocery. Just like I remember from New York Italian bakeries!

On a previous trip to San Diego, we met relatives here and enjoyed awesome Mexican food at a café and walked around the historic buildings. The trolley stops here so you can hope off and probably eat and spend hours just wondering around. Lots of souvenir shops!

San Diego Padres play at a rare downtown field, Petco Park. Years ago, we stayed at a downtown hotel and our room looked out over the field-so close we could see the players and scoreboard. So, if you are a baseball fan, check out their schedule, get a hotel close by and enjoy! Official San Diego Padres Website | MLB.com

SEAWORLD Visit with Purpose: SeaWorld Orlando, San Diego & San Antonio – Park to Planet | SeaWorld

We didn’t make it to SeaWorld on this trip, but we will definitely include a visit if we bring the grandkids here. Plan to spend the whole day here and bring your $$$ because it is not cheap. Check around for deals and coupons but with amusement rides, animal experiences and more, it is very much like a trip to Disney World and costs just as much.

WHERE TO STAY

 We stayed at the San Diego CA Lodging | San Diego Marriott Marquis on the Embarcadero and close enough to walk into downtown San Diego. The Marriott is a huge hotel next to the convention center, where you can easily walk along the Embarcadero promenade to the USS Midway, Seaport Village, the Rady Bandshell and get the ferry to Coronado across San Diego Bay. They have multiple pools, outdoor bars by the pools and multiple on property restaurants. They have a M Club for status members, but it was disappointing in that the food selection was very limited compared to other clubs I’ve visited at Marriott properties all over the world. But we still we got free coffee, beverages and some limited snacks which are nice to have around. The huge win for us was that they honored my status suite awards and we got upgraded to the Luxury Suite on the 23rd floor with a kitchen, dining room, and balcony overlooking the water. So lovely and appreciated so much!

I don’t think you could ask for a better location unless you wanted to be on the ocean in Coronado, in which case the Hotel del Coronado is the best choice! Hotel del Coronado | San Diego’s Legendary Beach Resort.

GETTING AROUND

Arriving in San Diego at the airport, I am always surprised at how close it is to the beach and downtown area. It is smack dab in the center of it all, making it easy to get to your hotel. Our Uber was a quick 10-minute hop to the Marriott and cost about $20. We don’t rent cars as a rule when we travel, opting for public transportation, walking ALOT and Uber. San Diego has a light rail, buses, and is very walkable. We also took the ferry from the marina over to Coronado which I would highly recommend. Only $8 each way and running every 20 minutes, it is a great way to get out on the water and super convenient to the many hotels on the Embarcadero. https://www.flagshipsd.com/cruises/flagship-ferry

OLD TOWN TROLLEY TOURS San Diego Tours Voted #1 | Save Up To 20% On San Diego Tours (trolleytours.com)

Instead of the hop on, hop off buses you see in many cities, the cute trollies in San Diego take you to all the top sites. They offer one- and two-day tours of San Diego so check it out, look online for any coupons and use this as your transportation between all the sights for a reasonable $50 per person. I know our grandkids will love riding around in the open-air trolley cars. We took the one-day option and had several different drivers on the segments as we hopped on and off several times. They were all friendly and informative in explaining about the various areas as we drove through them. Time efficient AND entertaining! Enjoy the journey!

Bernina Express-Swiss Alps by Train

When we decided to splurge and go to the Bruce Springsteen concert in Zurich, I knew I wanted to schedule time to check out the rest of Switzerland while we were there, one of the countries I had always wanted to go to. Growing up in flat Indiana, mountains have always fascinated me. After spending a fantastic evening with Bruce in Zurich in June, we set out on the train for a quick one-hour ride to Chur, Switzerland to spend the night and then pick up the Bernina Express the next day. We were off to cross the Alps!

Setting off in the early afternoon from Chur, we were fortunate to have a clear day for our journey. The highest railway across the Alps, the train climbs higher and higher with spectacular views on both sides. There are large panoramic windows for unobstructed viewing and picture taking. In our car, people were jumping up and running from side to side to take pictures and everyone was very friendly. We met lovely folks from Australia and Canada. I always enjoy hearing about other people’s travels all over the world! Every time I thought I couldn’t possibly take another picture, there was something else so impressive I had to whip out my phone. Along the way, the train goes through 55 tunnels, over 196 bridges and takes inclines of up to 70 per mile with ease. I’ll let my pictures take you on this journey so you can also experience the beauty of the Alps.

Not surprisingly, this amazing railway line has UNESCO World Heritage status so it will be preserved and cherished. As we passed by the many glaciers, one does wonder what impact climate change will have on this area of the world. It is a continuous journey, but passengers were able to hop off the train for all of two minutes to take pictures at one stunning stop where there was a restaurant. Our first-class tickets were $250 USD each and well worth it. Of course, when I booked our tickets online, I thought I was getting a real deal because they were only $26 euros each. Turns out, in the fine print was a vaguely worded statement that this charge was for “reserving” the seats and that I should have then gone on to pay (somewhere?) an additional $110 euros for the actual train tickets. Luckily, they didn’t throw us off the train on a mountainside and we were able to straighten this out on the train with the attendant who swung through to scan everyone’s tickets and she just took our credit card there and charged us. Next time, I will make sure to dig deeper and read all the details. No other train travel had a separate charge to reserve seats so live and learn!

We had waiter service to order snacks and beverages. They also passed out lovely souvenir Bernina Express chocolate tins. My grandkids will love them! I would recommend going online and securing your tickets as soon as you know your travel dates. Our train was sold out. In talking to fellow travelers, they had all dreamed of this trip and had planned their vacations around taking it.

Eventually, the train came down from the Alps and ended in Tirano, Italy. There we picked up another train immediately to take us to Milan where we would be flying home the following day. This train segment was very scenic as it wound around the many lakes in Northern Italy. What an adventure! I really feel like I saw the best of Switzerland after our stays in Basel, Zurich, Chur and our final scenic Alps trip on the Bernina Express. Enjoy the journey!

Basel, Switzerland

While I thought perhaps five nights in Basel might be too many, we ended up so busy every day exploring this beautiful Swiss city that we were exhausted! Averaging 20,000 steps/7 miles a day, we are already talking about what we will have to do when we come back to visit. I recommend using this site Basel City [Switzerland] | Sightseeing, Events 2023 | basel.com  as your one-stop shop for researching what you want to do. Basel has a great tourist information center in Old Town where you can buy everything from postcards/stamps to a Wickelfisch bag (more on that later). You can get information on river cruises (buy on the boat) and literature on other Swiss cities. We even found a Swiss rubber duckie to add to our extensive collection for the grandkids. All in all, Basel is the perfect European city to explore and enjoy!

When we checked into our hotel, they gave us the Basel Card which gives tourist 50% off river cruises, museums (there are LOTS of those!), and free use of their excellent public transportation system. No need for taxis here in Basel. Use the trams and buses to get around if you don’t feel like walking.

First up, we walked to the Three Countries Corner where France, Germany and Switzerland meet! We thought we might want to ride electric bikes ($20 with Basel Card) but you have to pick them up at the train station and we didn’t feel comfortable biking through the city to get to the trail we wanted to take. I’m more of a walker not a biker. So, on our inaugural walk by the Rhine River, we saw a sign on the river trail that said it was only 30 minutes to walk there so off we went the next morning.

Following the river, we were almost all alone on the trail save a few bikers and other walkers. At one point, we had to cross the railroad tracks and started venturing into a more industrial area. I was wondering about this route but then we happened upon a vast entertainment complex which made it all worthwhile. After we got home, I looked this place up online and discovered that it is called Holzpark Klybeck and is described on their website as a “Space for something different. Since 2014, a new, temporary cultural home for creative ideas, urban wilderness and dancing freedom has been created”. Well, it obviously is very popular as it ended up not being very temporary because here it is 2023 and this complex is huge.

We had heard that Basel had great street art but, as we walked through Old Town and our neighborhood by the Marriott where we were staying, we hadn’t seen anything. Well, without knowing it, the path we were taking was where all the street art was located. The complex was a combination of huts, campers, wood structures and stages and all decorated with street art. While we were there in the morning so it was deserted, I can only imagine how it lights up during summer nights. We already had other plans this trip but next time we visit Basel, we’ll have to check it out at night.

Pushing on, we found the monument where the three countries come together. Seeking out a place to hydrate, we found the Sandoase Beach Bar complete with tiki bars, sand, palm trees and, most importantly, bathrooms! After resting up, we walked away from the river and found the tram line. With our Basel Card (you get when staying at a local hotel) we can use public transportation for free. The electric trams go everywhere and are super clean. Switzerland definitely gets an A+ for their dedication to provide their citizens with ways to go car-free. In fact, many sections of Basel are designated as car free so it’s just buses, trams and bikes moving people.

Rhine River Floating

We visited Basel in June and the weather was hot and sunny. One of the first things we noticed when we were out walking around were the crowds lining the Rhine River. We found out that the locals put their clothes in a Wickelfisch bag (a swim bag in the shape of a fish which was invented in Basel) and they use it on their bags or holding to their chest to assist with floating down the cold river (about 68 degrees right now).  Swimming in the Rhine | basel.com What fun! We bought our Wickelfisch bags, decided where to jump in and where to get out and off we went. One of my most favorite memories of our time in Switzerland!

Along the river walk are food and drink trailers with seating to gather and watch the swimmers and boats on the river. There are several ferries running in different areas of the river using a tow line to go back and forth to move people from one side of the Rhine to the other. When in Basel, take a ride across the river. Enjoy the journey!

Switzerland first impressions from walking around Basel:

✅beautiful scenery and friendly people

✅English widely spoken but German is the official language, and the cuisine is German (sausages, beer and pretzels are plentiful!)

✅ excellent public transportation-electric trams and buses. Bikes galore. “No car” zones in city center.

✅recycling taken seriously-no plastic, all glass; bring own bag to stores

✅clean streets and sidewalks

✅clean water, abundant public fountains

✅ pharmacists-consults with you to diagnose on spot and provide cheap meds to treat

✅fitness culture-bike, swim, walk

❌smoking seems popular. Do they not know the health hazards here?

❌expensive compared to some other European countries but Switzerland is expensive in general.

48 Hours in Milan, Italy

After a brief stopover in NYC on our most recent trip, off we went to Milan, Italy, where we only had 48 hours to explore this beautiful city for the first time before our trip continued on to Switzerland. This challenge required prioritizing and careful planning, but we enjoyed our quick stay in Milan, seeing the highlights and soaking up the local culture!

SITES TO SEE

The Duomo is the “must see” in Milan. Too often, we have bypassed the hot tourist spots in cities where we visited because we didn’t plan far enough in advance to secure tickets to skip the lines. My husband really hates lines. We were in Amsterdam and walked by the Anne Frank House, the “must see” there and we skipped it due to the long lines. I won’t let Thom forget that! We also skipped the Sagrada Familiae in Barcelona on our first trip to Europe many years ago. Since then, we have researched and made sure to know exactly when tickets go on sale and decide whether we need just tickets or want a tour. This is the tour we booked to explore the Duomo and learn all about the history and it was well worth the cost:

2023 Fast-Track Private Tour: City Centre and Milan Duomo with Rooftop Terraces (tripadvisor.com)

Our guide, Victor, was very knowledgeable and kind. He took us from the underground underneath the cathedral where remnants of Milan streets date back to the first century to the main cathedral and then it was on to the roof! One reason I wanted this tour was because you could book taking the elevator to the top and back down again. I have walked up hundreds of steps exploring sights with Thom (Notre Dame before the fire!) but I’m ready to book the elevator when I can. We still have over hundred steps to take during the tour, which was fine, but boy did I appreciate the elevator! I couldn’t possibly share all the information I learned from our guide but trust me, this is a place where you want a guide to show you around. I will share one short fact: they built a hole at the top of one of the stained-glass windows to beam the light onto the sundial in the stone flooring. At the highest point of the sun in the day, it hits the appropriate zodiac sign embedded into the floor. Truly amazing!

Just want tickets not a tour? Then go here: BOOKING – Duomo di Milano OFFICIAL SITE (duomomilano.it) Times open vary by day and time of year so check on this site to see when it is open. Make sure you wear appropriate apparel (no bare knees or shoulders) or you will be purchasing a paper dress to cover yourself (see pic above). Many ladies were modelling this fashionable look. If you don’t want to buy tickets or take a tour, you can attend a service in the Cathedral for free! Sunday service is in the main cathedral and every day there are four services in the side section.

The Last Supper is the other “must see” in Milan. Leonardo Da Vinci completed this mural in 1948 in the refectory of the Santa Maria della Grazie church. This has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While you need tickets to see the Last Supper (book as soon as they are available online), you can go in the church and not see the Last Supper anytime without a ticket for free. The gardens of the site are beautiful so make sure to take time to enjoy them too!

I just wanted tickets not a tour, so I went to the official ticket site, Cenacolo Vinciano, which releases tickets for sale for periods of two to four months in advance. Go to the site and check to see when you want to go and when the tickets will be released and mark your calendars! Our tickets were released four months in advance. They sell out quickly and you cannot just walk up and get in because they are sold out so plan ahead to avoid disappointment.

Only a limited # of people are admitted every 15 minutes. Closed Monday, New Year’s Day, May 1st and Christmas Day. Tickets cost €10 for adults, plus a €2 service charge. Tickets are free for those under 18 but a reservation is still required and the €2 service charge applies. You must dress appropriately for a church-no bare shoulders or bare knees. They had signs that said no pictures but literally everyone had their phone out taking pictures and the guards in the room said nothing so shoot away!

La Scala Opera House was on my list to see but we just didn’t have time. You can take a tour or attend a concert if you are in Milan long enough. Check out the details here: Visit the Theatre – Teatro alla Scala Next time!

SHOPPING

The Galleria  Vittorio Emanuele II is THE shopping promenade by the Duomo Cathedral. Built in the late 1800s, it features a HUGE central dome that is magnificent. The floor mosaics are gorgeous, featuring the Savoy coat of arms and various animals that represent some of Italy’s most important cities. According to legend, find the one with a bull and step with your right foot on the bull and spin around 360 degrees with your eyes closed in order to have good luck. Did I do this with a crowd watching? Of course, I did and so did many other people while we watched. I love a good legend! Shops are generally open 10-7:30 pm every day. Other shops in Milan tend to close at 5 pm.

Under the Galleria dome and arched shopping corridor, you can buy top brands like Louis Vuitton and Prada. There are also find many cafes to choose from to eat including Café Biffi, founded in 1867. There’s even a McDonald’s!

We stopped in a little paper store near the Last Supper site and bought cool postcards and journals with handmade artwork covers. You could see the printing press in the backroom where the loveliest couple who ran the store made everything. I love buying unique items from the artists themselves.

EATING AND DRINKING

Having lived in Seattle for many years, I had read that Milan had the nicest European Starbucks so we walked a few minutes from the hotel to find it. Located in a huge historic building, this Starbucks Roaster certainly delivered. With a wide variety of food from sandwiches to fancy pastries to enjoy with your coffee drinks, there is plenty of room to eat inside their beautiful facility or on their patio-both are lovely. They are open from morning to 10 pm. We were there late in the evening around 9 pm and the place was packed! They also offer lots of Starbuck Roaster merchandise to buy.

Since we were only in Milan for one evening, we didn’t get to check out the food scene but the restaurants were packed-lunch time seemed to run from 1-2 and dinner started around 8 and went until 10 or so. There were a lot of gelato places around-look for the good stuff in metal covered containers not the fancy heaps of brightly colored stuff. All gelato is good but the authentic stuff is amazing.

After our early morning/first in line Last Supper tour, we made sure to stop at a café in the local area vs. the tourist area where we were staying. The coffee did not disappoint. We ordered americanos (espresso with a little hot water) and it was creamy and strong. Paired with an apple tart and apricot marmalade croissant, it was a perfect way to enjoy watching Milan citizens running to work and taking their kids to school.

PLACES TO STAY

I’m a loyal Marriott customer and have platinum level status so they treat me well. So, we chose the Straf hotel in Milan because of it’s super location within a block of the Duomo and other sites in central Milan. With a historic façade, the interior is chic and streamlined throwing off a chic vibe. Our room had concrete walls, floors and minimal decoration. Now, I prefer carpet and cozy furnishings but we were only there for one night so that part was fine. It was clean and the customer service was excellent. The only drawbacks were lack of electrical outlets (none near the only piece of furniture which was the bed). So it necessitated plugging in the electricals (computer, phone, smart watch, Kindle) over by the windows. Just because of that, I wouldn’t stay there again. I’m sure there is some reason for this apparent oversight-probably restricted electrical in this former historic building but there should be an app showing the exact placement and quantity of electrical outlets in all hotel rooms to guide people where to book.

GETTING AROUND

Milan has it all-subway, buses, trams, taxis and Uber. If you are arriving by airplane, be warned that the airport is far away from the city and it will cost $100-150 euros to get a taxi or private car service to take you into central Milan. The good news is that you can take the The Milan Malpensa Express Airport Train | ItaliaRail (bing.com) into town. Malpensa Express fares for a one-way adult fare to Milano Centrale is approximately $14 euros. Children are half price, while kids under the age of 4 travel free (as long as they do not occupy a seat). Seniors are eligible for a 20% discount. What a deal compared to a taxi or car service! From the train station (Milan Centrale is main one) you can easily find a taxi to get to your hotel.

Taxis-we found out from the hotel front desk that because our hotel, The Straf (Marriott property), was located on a small block by the busy Duomo area, only taxis were allowed on the street not Ubers or private cars. So instead of calling an Uber on our app, we had the front desk call a taxi for us to get across town to see the Last Supper. It was about 15 euros for a 15-minute ride and took about 4 minutes to get there once the hotel called for us. Easy peasey! We love to walk everywhere but we opted for a taxi for an early morning tour call to save our legs for the rest of the day. Enjoy the journey!

Travel Tips | Money Abroad

I’ve travelled all over the world and one important travel topic everyone always asks me about is how I handle money when I am abroad. I hope the tips I share below help you. Enjoy the journey!

Here are the most frequent questions I get and my answers:

Should I take cash? If so, how much and where do I get local currency before I travel?

  • Yes, you need a little local currency, but I mostly use credit cards.
  • Banks in other countries aren’t necessarily plentiful and aren’t open extended hours. In Italy, we had a hard time finding any open at all given they open late, take a long lunch and close early. They work to live not live to work!
  • Only use an ATM that is inside and part of a bank. Lots of fraud out there at those ATMs in convenience stores and out on the street. Plus, the opportunity for thieves to approach you are higher on the street than if you are in the locked bank ATM booth.
  • I have a local bank in the US that carries most currencies (and can order what they don’t have). I usually like to bring at least $100 in local currency to mostly use at local shops/farmer’s markets. In Italy, you can’t add a tip onto your bill so you need cash to tip. You also need cash to tip any tour guides. You will probably need local coins to use the public bathrooms. If you end up needing more cash while you are traveling, go to the bank ATM.
    • Customers with Bank of America checking and savings accounts can order foreign currency through Online Banking or the Mobile Banking App. Customers with credit cards only can order currency at a financial center. Exchange and Order Foreign Currency from Bank of America
    • I opened up a checking account with a debit card at a different bank (the one that has local currency) to avoid fees when I get US cash exchanged for other currencies and also because that way if the debit card is compromised while travelling, it doesn’t link to my main checking/savings account which is at another bank. Yes, I’m cautious! I keep a minimum balance in this account-just enough to get $100-200 more out when travelling and then I deposit more for the next trip.

What credit card(s) do you use?

  • I take two different credit cards.
  • I carry a VISA and an American Express. Both earn me points for more travel! Some places do not take AMEX, so you need to have another option. Make sure any credit card you travel with doesn’t charge you foreign transaction fees. Those fees can really add up.
  • My preferred way to pay is to use “tap to pay” with my smart watch that is set up with GooglePay with a VISA as the payment option. This works beautifully in most countries for use with public transportation (UK uses tap to pay for subways and buses) and cafes/shops. This way you are not pulling out a credit card that could possibly get left behind-it happens to all of us!
  • When travelling with my husband, he takes one VISA and one AMEX, and I take a different VISA and AMEX. That way if one of us gets our wallet stolen, we cancel the credit cards that the one person was travelling with and we still have the other person’s cards that are different accounts. Be prepared for the worst situation so it doesn’t spoil your vacation.

Do I need to call my credit card company before I travel?

  • Probably not but policies vary by company.
  • Often banks will tell you that they don’t need to be notified but my travel companions and I have all had issues with using credit cards being declined due to security concerns the first time we use them abroad. One of my credit card has the following notification on their site (search “travel notification” on your credit card site):
    • You no longer need to let us know when you travel. We monitor your accounts and will send automatic alerts if we detect suspicious activity. Should you need us while traveling, call the number on the back of your card anytime.
    • I would recommend you go to each of the credit card sites that you plan to use and just check what they say about “travel notifications”.

Now, you are ready to go have a great adventure and not worry about the logistics of spending money abroad. Cheers!

Top 10 Paris Travel Apps

I use many different travel apps to help my adventures go smoothly but, with our Girls’ Trip to Paris coming up quickly, I put together a specific list of the top travel apps that are “must haves” for us to use there. I thought I would share my favorites so you too can embrace technology and enjoy the journey!

Of course, there are many apps out there that are super niche for Paris only but the apps I’ve decided to share are ones that I’ve used in Paris and found essential in the past. The websites for the apps below are included so you can check them out and decide if they will work for you. Then, if you determine you need these apps, download the app to your mobile device to use while you are travelling. Make sure you set up any profiles in advance so you are ready to use (for example, Uber will need payment info stored). Many people ask me about what to do with their phones while they are travelling abroad. There is so much information around this topic that I wrote a separate blog post here My Top Phone Tips for Traveling Abroad – Travels with Melinda.

GETTING AROUND

Rome2Rio: discover how to get anywhere is an app that I have used in many different European places and all across the US. My favorite app! You just input where you want to go from Point A to Point B and it searches any city, town, landmark, attraction or address across the globe with thousands of routes to easily get you from A to B. It gives you timetables and estimated pricing for all types of transportation-trams, bus, subway, train, taxi, etc. If you decide to walk, it tells you how long it will take and helps guide you around that way too. In planning a logical itinerary, this is the app I use most often.

Citymapper – The Ultimate Transport App is a free public transit app with mapping that displays transport options, usually with live timing, between any two locations in a supported city.  Similar to Rome2Rio but very helpful for getting around by any means of transportation from e-scooters to walking to biking to subways. I like this app best for getting around by foot.

Google Maps can be used to navigate around town. This is the app my husband likes best.

Uber is great to get around and I have successfully used it in Paris (not the case in some European cities). Check here Uber Cities – Rides Around the World | Uber before you go to other countries to see if Uber is available. I’ve never used Bolt but it works in Paris too.

RATP for the Paris Metro. This app has maps and train schedules plus it will notify you of delays. Having the app gives you free access to the RATP WiFi network.

G7 Taxi to book a taxi for immediate pick-up or schedule a ride up to 14 days in advance. You can pay the driver via the app or when you take the ride. I’ve had better luck with Uber getting rides but I have this app too just in case.

COMMUNICATING

Google Translate instantly translates words, phrases, and web pages between English and over 100 other languages. I’ve used this app mostly to translate menus.

WhatsAppI have found that some restaurants in Europe use this app instead of other apps to book reservations. Airbnb hosts may use this vs. text/call. You can also stay in touch with friends and family for free no matter where you are vs. using international phone service because WhatsApp uses Wi-Fi not phone data. If you don’t want to use your cell (usually $10 a day for international use) then just use WhatsApp. You can message, chat and video chat for free. Just make sure whomever you want to connect with back home also has the app and, of course, you will need to be connected to Wi-Fi to use it but it’s free!

EATING

The Fork app is for making reservations at restaurants. Availability is given in real time. You don’t need to make reservations for the cafes you will find on every block in Paris but for popular restaurants you may want to reserve in advance so not to be disappointed.

USING THE FACILITIES

Toilets of Paris app helps you find public toilettes, water closet or W.C. aka bathrooms/restrooms. This app is available on iOS and android and includes public bathrooms and those in restaurants, where you will probably need to buy at least a drink to use their facilities. Large hotels with lobby bathrooms are great places to go too.

Now that you’re all set with the essential travel apps, take off to the City of Lights and have an amazing adventure!

Top 5 tips to book an Airbnb stay

Gazing out the window at the lively Montmartre cafes, I truly felt a part of the Parisian culture on a recent trip. This is one of the reasons I book an Airbnb for our stays that are a week or more. While I love my Marriott hotel stays, those work best for just a few days. An Airbnb is great for longer term stays and for groups like for our girls’ trips because we need more bathrooms and beds than a hotel room can provide. In Florence, we rented out an apartment in a villa (see top left pic below) where the family lived in one section, and we enjoyed three levels of living in a separate wing of the building. When my husband and I travel, often I will be working remote for a month or longer, so having strong Wi-Fi and a washer are necessary. I just booked our stay in an apartment in Strasbourg, France for a month, where I’ll be working remote during the week and taking day trips all over France on the weekends. My girls trip this year will be a stay in Paris on the Ile Saint-Louis Island in an amazing Airbnb with a water view. So much to look forward to!

Doing research before booking your Airbnb is crucial to having a happy stay so please read my tips below before you hit that “reserve” button and enjoy your journey!

  1. Read the reviews. If there are complaints about noise and the beds being uncomfortable, look elsewhere. You need a good night’s sleep when you travel. If there are no reviews, don’t book it. The listing may be new and that’s the reason for zero reviews but let somebody else try it out first. The host should disclose any issues with the rental in the description (one posting I just read stated that “If you are 6-feet +, consider other bookings because one area of the ceiling has a clearance of 5’11”) but sometimes hosts aren’t so forthright so reviews are where you will discover the truth.
  2. Choose a Superhost if at all possible. They will care more about providing a clean, consistent experience because they want good reviews. If something is amiss, they will be more likely to make it right. We checked in to one apartment in London and the cleaners hadn’t shown up yet, so we had to drop our bags and leave once they did come. However, the host gave us a full night’s credit back to our Airbnb account which was absolutely the best outcome of a situation that can happen.
  3. Check out the neighborhood before you book. Some hosts provide the address up front, and others will only show a location in the general neighborhood “exact location provided after booking”. Either way, do your due diligence and investigate. We got a super deal on a place in Lisbon, Portugal but the neighborhood was a little rough, so we didn’t feel comfortable going out at night so now I go to Google maps and look at street view level to get a feel for the neighborhood before I book. Usually, the host will include details in “Getting around” section about what you can walk to like a market and public transportation nearby. Is accessibility an issue for you or members of your group? Is the neighborhood hilly or are there stairs to climb to the local market? All good thinks to know in advance.
  4. Consider the cancellation policy. Cancel policies vary by property so make sure you check. You will usually see for each listing either: “Free cancellation before (insert date)”, which is usually 30 days prior to start of reservation OR “Free cancellation for 48 hours”. Believe me, life can happen and with a restrictive cancel policy you will lose your entire payment. My husband had a heart attack, and we couldn’t go to NYC on a planned trip. Even after explaining the situation to the host, he refused to refund our money and he was within his rights to do so given that apartment’s published cancel policy. I was still upset, and, after that incident, I now refuse to book a place that doesn’t have a more lenient policy where I can get a 100% refund within 30 days of start of reservation.
  5. Check amenities and accessibility. I have stayed in Airbnbs all over Europe. Many places have steep stairs to not only get to the apartment but also within the unit. Elevators are as rare as air conditioning, dishwashers and dryers in many countries. If these are important to you, check to make sure the place you have picked to rent has them. Even small details like having a coffee pot for me are important. One place we rented had nothing but an electric kettle which is fine for tea. We had a lovely time shopping in the local neighborhood for a french press and coffee, leaving it all behind after our week’s stay so the next renter might enjoy it. If you will be working remote and need strong Wi-Fi, check the reviews to see if other renters have had any issues and check with the host. Where we stayed in London recently not only had 5 flights of stairs inside the unit but the Wi-Fi and cell coverage was weak and only worked in a few places inside the unit, which was just inconvenient for us. At our New Zealand cottage on the water, the host provided free use of kayaks and we had an amazing paddle around the bay. Our France rental this fall has use of bikes to get around the city which I am sure we will use on our month-long stay.

I hope these tips help you book an amazing place. Safe travels!

One Day in Taipei

Jet lag be damned!  With only one day off, I needed to make it count.  So, I set out on Sunday to explore Taipei and found a delightful city filled with temples, art, shopping, easy transportation and friendly folks.  What’s not to like?

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I always love to just walk a city to get a feel for the people and culture.  Taipei 101 is THE building in downtown so off I went to get a view of this famous building.  Along the way,  many shops had opened and the shoppers were out in force.  As in many China cities, there are little clothing boutiques and drugstores (no OTC meds just beauty items) everywhere along with the high-end luxury brands like Gucci, etc.

I was first struck by several differences between Taipei and Shanghai, where I lived a few years ago:  drivers of cars and scooters seemed to actually obey traffic signals and stay on the roads vs. driving on the sidewalks as they often did in Shanghai.  Crazy! I felt a little safer in Taipei though I still was cautious crossing streets.  The streets were clean yet I didn’t see the street sweepers that you would on mainland China who cleaned up after everybody.  I’m thinking the Taiwan citizens seem to be very tidy and I’ve yet to see the many smokers or public spitting/urinating that I got used to after living in China.  Not knocking my former home in Shanghai because it was awesome but the differences were noticeable.

After seeing Taipei 101 in the distance and it is a lovely unique skyscraper, I jumped on the blue line subway and off I went to Longshan Temple.  The subway was clean, staffed and signed in English.  For less than 50 cents, I arrived across town and walked through a lovely park where groups of men were playing games and socializing, very similar to Shanghai life on a Sunday.  Packed with locals burning incense and praying at the Temple, I was one of the few Laowai’s enjoying the experience.

A fellow traveler from Warsaw, Poland was nice enough to snap my pic at the koi pond, where a cat stalked from the roof above.  I love meeting new people on my adventures.  On the subway, a mature lady smiled as I sat next to her and, though not an English-speaker, she gestured at my map and seemed excited when I got off at the Temple stop.  Another lovely gal in the subway was toting her pup in a front-facing backpack.  I need to get one of these for Thor!  He would love to be carried around to see the sights.

After taking in the Temple, I was off on the subway again-first the blue line, then transferring to the red line and finally taking a cab the rest of the way to the National Palace Museum which was on the outskirts of Taipei by the mountains.  Tour groups of China tourists dominated the galleries where for only about $12.50 US, you can view three floors of treasures from jewelry to vases to calligraphy, all ancient and beautiful.  The only gallery not packed with people was the Tibet exhibit.  Hmmm…  Every item was behind glass to protect from the hordes taking it all in.

The jet lag finally kicking in, I jumped in a cab to get to the red line, then the green line and arrived back at the Westin ready for room service and a good night’s sleep.  Wish I had more time in Taiwan to explore-a vacation with Thom is definitely now a necessity!  Monday we start meetings and then off to Hong Kong on Tuesday-the journey is just beginning!

 

Japan to Italy in One Seattle Morning

On a sunny fall Seattle morning, it was time to visit different cultures without leaving downtown.  Thom and I love to experience new places so, from Japan to Italy, we decided to get out and savor the warm weekend weather.  Time to explore!

First stop-Seattle Japanese Gardens in the Madison Park neighborhood is a 3.5 mile oasis of tranquil ponds and flowering trees.  Now, parking is scarce especially as the garden parking lot sits next to soccer fields filled on a Saturday morning with cheering/jeering parents coaching their little ones on ferociously.  Be quiet, Mom and Dad, and let the tykes play.

After driving by and circling back with no spot in the lot, we just parked on Madison St. and walked down.  For only $6 per head, you can achieve zen and see some very hungry koi.  Bring your camera as everywhere you look is an Instagram moment.  They have a teahouse where you can buy tickets for an authentic Japanese tea, which I’ll have to try sometime.  Winding through waterfalls, streams and bridges over the ponds, I was so happy to see lots of turtles (I have a fascination with these ancient creatures) sunning themselves on the plentiful rocks in the pond.  The koi were colorful and hungry, being fed by the small children visiting the gardens.  A few of these koi may want to consider eating less carbs and swimming a few more laps around the pond-they were HUGE!

After wandering back by the soccer fields (we can’t wait until Mia starts playing!), we enjoyed putting the top down on Sexy Beast and driving back home to check out the Festa Italiana Seattle at the Seattle Center.  Oh my holy Hell those meatballs were delish and I rarely eat meat.  I didn’t even take a pic of them because I ate them so fast.  Swimming in lots of spicy sauce, my “tub of meatballs” went down quickly-tub being an overstatement as there were only five so I refused to share with Thom.  Waddling down to the exhibits where they had music, dancing, a wine garden and lots of vendors, we quickly sought out the Borracchini Bakery table and purchased cannoli’s, biscotti and other treats to take home to enjoy later.  When in Italy and all.  To be honest, they didn’t last long after we got home so I just might have to visit the Festa Italiana again tomorrow for another bakery run.  So. Good.

In another building, there was a fierce bocci tournament going on.  Such a game of finesse.  A show with elaborate puppets for the kids was enchanting and well attended.  The festival also showcased Italian dogs, Cirneco dell-Etna, small, wiry and high-strung Sicilian hound that hunts rabbits, as well as cute Vespas and classy Maserati cars.  Oh those Italians know how to live!

I love living in Seattle and going from zen to festa in a matter of minutes.  I’ll never take living here for granted.  Now it’s time to lift a glass of vino to toast the start of another great Seattle weekend.  Cheers!