National Gallery Museum-London

The National Gallery Museum in London is celebrating its 200th birthday this year, which is yet another great reason to visit London soon (as if you needed a reason). Though I’ve been to London a few times, I’ve never had the time to enjoy this museum, so this trip we made it a priority! Located in Trafalgar Square, I recommend you spend some time walking around the square and soak up the atmosphere outside before entering this magnificent museum. The fountains, the lions, and statues are all great back drops for picture-taking. Climb the museum steps and be ready to walk amongst the vast amounts of art from Monet, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Rubens, Raphael, and so many more. Seriously, there is a whole gallery for just Rembrandts, one of the biggest collections of his art that I’ve seen, and I get around! Of course, Monet is my happy place and they had enough of his art to make me happy including one very large piece. Having been to his home and lily ponds in Giverny several times, I just connect with his calming pieces. We only had a few hours to enjoy the art but look forward to going back next time we are in London!

Having just been to the British Museum where there were no seats to sit and appreciate the exhibits, I was happy to see a variety of benches and even leather chairs spread out through the galleries so you could spend time just sitting and appreciating the art on the walls. The art was all hung from chains off poles near the ceiling, making it probably easier to move pieces and not hurting the walls. Make sure to look up and appreciate the beautiful ceilings and skylights throughout the museum.

We did see lots of tour groups with their guides giving lectures at the various major pieces of art. Because you can’t possibly see all the art on one visit, next time we plan to perhaps take a tour with someone who can bring the art to life with stories. We did try the app Smartify | A World of Art and Culture, Just for You – Smartify and were very impressed. You just scan the art, and it immediately pops us a few paragraphs about the artist and that particular piece. A great collaboration between art and technology. Give it a try next time you visit a museum!

CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT

After you walk miles around the museum, take a rest across the street in the stunning crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields cafe. The original brick-vaulted ceilings and historic tombstones lining the floor provide atmosphere and the food is tasty and well-priced. Check on their website for special events that turn the crypt into a music and cabaret venue.

ENTRY TO MUSEUM

While the museum is free (like most British museums!), we went online the day before at The National Gallery, London to get timed entry tickets, which allowed us even quicker access into the museum. If you don’t have timed tickets, go to the entry on the left of the columns and you’ll probably have to wait in line for a little while. If you have tickets, you can go in the entry to the right without the line. Either way, there is a security check as you get inside.

Unlike the British Museum where maps are free, you have to shell out $2GBP at the National Gallery to get a map but we did because it is useful to find your way around. It’s so big you could get lost! With two floors of galleries, they are grouped into three clusters: 17th, 18th century and Impressionist paintings and Renaissance, Dutch and Flemish paintings and finally medieval paintings. There were several temporary exhibitions that were all free.

GETTING THERE

Definitely a tourist magnet and meeting place, events can be happening at Trafalgar Square that can really be crowded, so check online sites like this one https://www.visitlondon.com/things-to-do/place/283774-trafalgar-square before you go. Be aware that protests also commonly march here to gather and make a statement, especially on the weekends. Proceed cautiously around these large crowds to enter the museum.

The National Gallery is located just steps from the Charing Cross tube station making for an easy commute from wherever you are staying in London. Enjoy the journey!

British Library-London

Libraries are my happy place so when we stumbled upon the British Library after exiting St. Pancreas Tube station, which is one of the most beautiful buildings in London, it was a no brainer to change our day’s previous plans and instead finally take the time to go see it. This national library of the UK is one of the largest libraries in the world with 14+million books and other items dating as far back as 2000 BC. and while you can’t access a large part of it without a resident library card, there are lots of open spaces to relax and literary artifacts to see. Definitely worth a visit!

First up we checked out the Treasures Collection which, of course, is free and chock full of over 200 treasures as the name indicates from Beatles lyrics to the Magna Carta to Leonardo da Vinci drawings to a Gutenberg Bible (the second we’ve seen!). Original music scores, maps, religious manuscripts, autograph letters, diaries, notes and other manuscript material from famous people such as Winston Churchill, Charles Darwin, J.R.R.Tolkien, Alan Turing, Jane Austen, and many others are all beautifully displayed.

In the middle of the building is a six-story glass tower inspired by a similar structure in the Beinecke Library, containing the King’s Library with 65,000 printed volumes along with other pamphlets, manuscripts and maps collected by King George III between 1763 and 1820 (Wikipedia). Picture above is this tower from the outside, but the public is not allowed in there. Darn!

Depending on how much time you have to visit, there are special exhibitions, cafes on every floor, and lots of seating to relax and enjoy the free Wi-Fi. Check it all out here: Visit us in London and Yorkshire | The British Library (bl.uk) All these spaces were busy with students, people having meetings, and eating/drinking. Clean bathrooms are plentiful, including multi-gender ones, and, available on every level. Why is it so hard in the US to find multi-gender bathrooms when they are everywhere here in Europe? The gift shop has lots of fun items including pillow covers, which haven’t been easy to find, so I got a great one with a map of London on it. Enjoy the journey!

 

Shopping in London

If you like to shop, London is calling you! From vintage to designer, there is something for everybody. Even though I have been to London several times, I’m always finding new stores, neighborhoods, markets and towns to explore. On this trip, as in several previous trips, we had to buy an additional suitcase to bring home all our goodies that we found. Since we get free bag check, it’s cheaper than shipping it home. Next trip (to Italy in May!), we are taking a new fold-up bag, so we are prepared to bring home more treasures that we find on our shopping adventures without having to buy new luggage-I’m running out of luggage storage room!

DEPARTMENT STORES

UPSCALE

Harrods | The World’s Leading Luxury Department Store is THE luxury department store in London that you must visit just to check out even if you don’t have the $$$ to buy designer duds. They do have a nice souvenir department in the lower level where you can find reasonable items. Make sure you check out the food hall with so many tasty options. Word of caution-jam/honey/mustard is considered a liquid (anything that spreads!) when you are leaving London and have to go through security, so pack those goodies away in checked bags or you’ll be sad when they confiscate it from your carry-on.

My new favorite store is Fortnum and Mason, a luxury department store with floor after floor of amazing housewares, including their famous picnic hampers and foodie merchandise. Founded in 1707 as a grocery store, the flagship Picadilly store is beautifully decorated, especially during the holidays, and has been a shopping destination for the Royals, as in Queens and such. After our initial shopping trip where we picked up “biscuits” aka cookies, they were so good that we picked up some additional biscuits or as I now call them “bites of heaven” at their outlet in St. Pancras train station. They also have a shop in Terminal 3 at Heathrow, where we picked up cute British cars stuffed with fudge for the grandkids on our way home. Who’s the best NaiNai and GiGi?? Yep, the people who bring back the best souvenirs and tasy treats to share. I particularly love the F & M premium packaging, from curved beautifully decorated boxes filled with dark chocolate biscuits to their tea tins and musical containers. There are gifts for all ages. If you get hungry while you shop (and don’t we all?), they have a fancy tearoom, a food hall with every kind of food, a wine bar and a café serving famous ice cream confections. Cheers!

Thom had never been to Liberty, a luxury department store located in the West End near Carnaby Street, so we had to go on this trip. The façade of this mock-Tudor building with its ages old timbers is absolutely beautiful and the inside doesn’t disappoint either with wood floors and an atrium that is always spectacularly decorated for the holidays. This merchant is known for its fabrics, housewares and fashion. Founded in 1875, Liberty supports new and emerging designers within its historic walls.

After wandering around Liberty, we headed over to Carnaby Street which is filled with specialty shops like Levi’s which we didn’t need to shop at, but I did visit Doc Martens, a British classic. Thom has a pair of these, purchased after he saw Bruce Springsteen wearing them at a concert (of course, right?), and I have always wanted a pair, so I finally decided to just go for it. YOLO and all. It helped that they had a really cool limited-edition Year of the Dragon tassel loafer style that I can’t wait to wear. Unfortunately, we took public transportation everywhere in London and you do NOT want to wear nice shoes on the Tube. On one Tube trip, a guy was asleep and had a latte on the floor precariously wedged between his feet and it eventually tipped over after a hard stop and spilled all over Thom’s shoes. Thom was just glad it wasn’t vomit but that experience convinced me that the Tube is not the best place for my beautiful new Docs.

REGULAR FOLK DEPARTMENT STORES

Your everyday Londoner does not shop at the fancy department stores like Harrod’s or, if they do, they are rich. Popular go-to places to get clothes for most people are Primark and Marks and Spencer. There are many locations of these stores all over town. Have fun buying reasonably priced outfits and accessories to take home.

SPECIALTY STORES

VINYL

Vinyl lovers should bring an empty suitcase in London. You could spend a week visiting all the vinyl stores located all over London. Check out this good list: 56 Best Record Stores in London by Neighborhood | Discogs – Record Stores.

On this trip, we checked out Third Man Records, which is musician Jack White’s cool space in Soho. “Mind your head” is not just a sign but a caution as the entry to the basement section of this shop has a very low doorway that unfortunately Thom had hard contact with resulting in a big bump on his head. Not only do they have vinyl but a nice assortment of merch and a book machine plus a jam (for playing music not eating a delightful spread for toast) area.

Every 1st and 3rd Friday of the month, go to the Vinyl Market (oldspitalfieldsmarket.com) to find some good bargains. On my last Girls Trip to London, I was able to find Thom a Bruce Springsteen concert bootleg album that seemed pretty rare. Score!

BOOKSTORES

The Hatchards Bookstore in Piccadilly was founded in 1797 and is London’s oldest bookshop and bookseller to the Royal households. When you sell merch to the Royals, a store gets to display a sign on the outside of their store that is a Royal Warrant. Hatchards has three Royal Warrants. They have lots of stores but the five-story location in Picadilly is the one to visit-it is beautiful and located next to Fortnum and Mason, one of my other favorite stores. It is also opposite the Royal Academy, which is worth a visit to see their museum (and a good place to use the bathrooms!).

Check the Hatchards online site for book signings. They also have in their assortment first and special edition books for the collectors. A book is always a good idea for yourself or to take home for a present.

OPTICAL STORES

MOSCOT Beak Street Shop in the Soho district has a fantastic assortment of frames to pick from. Thom and I both have sported Moscot frames in the past and they not only look great but are super well-made and comfortable. Buying frames wherever we travel is one of my favorite souvenirs. I take the frames home to my local Costco optical and get my prescription lenses put in. Every time I wear my new glasses, I remember my vacation!

On this trip, we discovered a new brand of frames that have lots of fashion styles to pick from at reasonable (about $150 GBP) prices. Buy Eyeglasses | Designer Eyeglasses For Men & Women – Jimmy Fairly (UK) has locations all over London and the suburbs like Hampstead. I love that they have an espresso machine in their stores and offer shots as you shop. Get all caffeinated up and buy some frames to take home!

MUSEUM GIFT SHOPS

I have to call out museum gift shops because I have gotten some of my favorite gifts there to take back home. Usually well priced, every museum in London has at least one if not multiple gift shops with everything from pillow covers (British Library) to Winston Churchill rubber duckies (Churchill Rooms) to booze (all of them have hard liquor including Buckingham Palace, which had an unusually large selection of sloe gin-why?). So, make sure you take time to check out the merch at the museums!

STREETS/NEIGHBORHOODS

Regent Street London – Shopping – Dining – Wellness (regentstreetonline.com) is a major shopping street in the West End of London. It runs from Waterloo place at the south end through Picadilly Circus and Oxford Circus to All Souls Church. Retailers who can afford this pricey real estate have their London flagship stores here. Check out technology at the Apple Store or the Microsoft Experience Center and then shop for fashion at practically every retailer you could want.

MARKETS

There are so many cool markets in London that you can’t possibly visit them all in one trip so every time we come, we try to at least go to one or two. On this trip, we made it to Covent Garden and Spitalfield’s. Come to these markets hungry and ready to shop. Enjoy the journey!

Buckingham Palace-London

I’ve walked by the iconic Buckingham Palace on previous trips to London and admired it from the front gate. On this trip, however, we finally found time to actually spend time inside checking out the official London residence for the ruling monarch. This is a working palace and the State Rooms you get to see on the guided tour are used for the official and ceremonial duties carried out by the King. Will you see any royalty? You never know! Our guide Mandy showed us how to bow and curtsey just in case any royalty wandered by us. So, while you may not see them in the flesh, you will definitely see royalty gracing the walls in painting after painting beginning with the Grand Entrance to the Grand Hall. Was it truly “grand”? Yes, it does make quite an impression. You’ll have to take my word for it because the guides were very strict on the “no picture taking” rule-not even Thom wanted to run afoul of them, so there were no sneaky picture taking at all, showing incredible restraint on his part. Enjoy the journey (but DO NOT take pictures of it!)

Our private guided tour took us through the State Rooms. I booked the tour online at Visit Buckingham Palace (rct.uk) as soon as it became available, as they sell out fast. With gold on literally everything, the décor reminded me of Versailles. We had one main guide who did all the storytelling, and she was very entertaining, bringing to life the history of the royals plus background on the furnishings including the chandeliers, clocks, and more facts than I could ever remember but our tour included a complimentary guide booklet that I can read and use to refresh my memory on all the royal lineage as it is quite complicated. Lots of marriages, births, deaths, etc. to follow in the royal family tree.

After a few rooms, the guide encouraged us to sit on the plush carpets if we needed to take a rest. If you wanted to be more civilized, the other two guides who were there to help had a few folding seats we could use. But how often do you get to cop a squat on the palace carpets? So down I went to lounge on the floor of the Palance and listen to the guide tell us all about the paintings in the Picture Gallery. There was a small (probably 4-year-old) child in our group that kept his mother and the guides on their toes as he was fast, and hell bent on waving an ink pen around priceless paintings, furniture and carpets, not to mention the porcelains perched precariously on display pillars in almost every room. Surely, there have been issues in the past with damage by tourists but, luckily not on our tour, though when the harried mom and child exited the group early, all the guides sighed with relief.

The State Rooms are generally named by color-Blue Room, Green Room, Yellow Room, White Drawing Room and so on. In all, there are 775 rooms according to my handy guidebook, including 19 State Rooms, 52 royal and guest bedrooms, 92 offices and 78 bathrooms. There are hundreds of staff keeping this whole palace clean and ready for tourists and the royalty. High maintenance to say the least!

In the Throne Room, guess what? You see the official thrones used by King Charles and his consort. You do not get to sit on the thrones for pictures nor do you get to stand on the front palace balcony that is famous for photos taken at major events when the whole royal party crowds on it to wave to their adoring subjects. No tourists sullying these icon royal-only places.

It is fun to watch some YouTube videos and see the late Queen and now King Charles visiting, knighting famous people, and partying in the rooms that we visited. I enjoyed hearing about the annual holiday party where the palace staff gets to mingle with the King and Queen. Mandy shared that she was watching the doors carefully to be ready when the King arrived only to have him walk right up to her after creeping in through a secret panel door behind the floor to ceiling window-how cheeky of him. Enjoy the journey!

TIPS

  • Travel tip-wear comfy shoes as you will walk A LOT. The palace is not a small place and there is no sitting except for one brief stop in the ballroom and squatting on the carpets.
  • There was a cloakroom for the tour participants where you could check your coat and packages. You don’t want to get overheated, so check it!

THE RULES

  • You must arrive 30 minutes before the time of your tour. If you’re late, you may not be admitted.
  • The entrance is at The Queen’s Gallery. We were in the area the day before our tour and found the entrance, which is on the left-hand side of the palace as you face it. It is a little hard to find, so check it out prior to your visit so you are not late for your tour.
  • There is no photography or filming. Our guide asked us to turn off our phones before we started so we wouldn’t be tempted. If they catch you disobeying the rules, we warned there would be consequences.
  • Our tour was not accessible for anyone with disabilities. You have to book a special tour if you require step-free acess.
  • If you book tickets and end up needing to cancel like we did, you can get a full refund! I had forgotten how bad the jet lag can be, so I scheduled a morning tour on the weekend after we arrived, and we just weren’t up for it, so I called the morning of the tour as soon as they opened at 9 am and talked to a nice person who processed a full refund to my credit card. I then rebooked a few weeks into the trip when we had more energy. You have to call +44 (0) 303 123 7300 and talk to a real person to get a refund-none of this doing it online!

Thrift Shopping in London

Who doesn’t love a bargain? Whether you want to upcycle those thrift store finds or wear them as you find them to style an original look, London is the perfect place to find unique fashion pieces at great prices.

I’ve always loved shopping for unique items not only for the thrill of the “find” but also for affordability and sustainability. Instead of “throw away” cheap fashion like you would find at H & M and the chain stores which only really last for a few wearings before they are no longer in good shape, some of my finds have lasted for years for myself and the previous owners. A Levi denim shirt at a “boot” sale in London, jewelry galore, a vintage scarf, and lots more from this trip-so much that we had to buy more luggage to go home! Plus, instead of looking like everyone else, you are able to style a unique outfit that looks like no one else but you. We discovered two great stores next to each other in the Covent Garden neighborhood that you should definitely check out next time you are in London.

PICKNWEIGHT https://picknweight.de/pages/london

Whatever you are looking for, if you have the time and dedication to go through all the racks crammed full of items, you won’t be disappointed. PICKNWEIGHT sells their vintage and secondhand clothes by the kilo. Based on the color of the security tag, you pay a certain price. There are convenient weighing stations throughout the store with pricing signs so you can weigh your purchases before going to the register to see how much you are going to spend.  With stores all over Europe, this is obviously a popular concept. There was a wide variety of American brands like Levi’s, Carhartt, Dickies, and American sports team’s t-shirts and hats. We even found a Boise State University Broncos shirt, which is the college football team in our hometown in Idaho. We picked up a vintage t-shirt, denim shirt and sweater vest for about 50 GBP, which I felt was very reasonable.

Rokit Vintage Clothing

Vintage Clothing | Retro Clothing | Rokit Vintage Clothing

From Kate Moss to Amy Winehouse, Rokit Vintage Clothing has styled London celebrities; unique outfits for nearly 40 years. Starting in Camden Market and expanding to multiple locations in the UK, Rokit not only sells second-hand and vintage clothing but upcycles fashion into limited edition pieces they sell at their stores.

A much different shopping experience from the next door PICKNWEIGHT store, where racks are packed together and merchandise is displayed from top to bottom, Rokit has space to walk between the racks. Separated by categories, you can easily find what you might be looking for and each piece is individually priced. Here, Thom scored a black velvet tailored blazer that appeared to be never worn with pockets and back vents still stitched shut for only $55 GBP. He plans to style this jacket with jeans, a white t-shirt and his Docs. Perfect! I got a Joseph Abboud men’s denim shirt for $15 GBP, again in perfect condition.

Now, how to get all this good stuff home to Idaho?? The options were to ship or buy another piece of luggage and check it on the way home. I’m not a fan of checking luggage ever but for this trip being gone for over a month in the winter, we just had to check some and, because of my airline status, we didn’t pay to check 2 pieces of luggage each. So, it was much cheaper to buy a suitcase (at TJ Maxx or thrift store for under $50) which I have also had to do on every previous Girls Trip, rather than shipping a big box home. For our next trip to Italy in May and all future trips, we bought two collapsible bags that I’m sure we will fill up with all kinds of finds. No more luggage will fit in my basement! I plan to hit the resale stores in Milan, the fashion capital of Italy. Who knows what kinds of designer deals I’ll get???? Enjoy the journey!

Moulin Rouge the Musical-London

Moulin Rouge the Musical in London’s West End is the best musical I have ever seen, and I get around! Now, I have never seen Moulin Rouge the movie, but I did go to the original Moulin Rouge live show in Paris last year on our Girls Trip 2023. I had no idea what the Moulin Rouge Musical would be about-would it mirror the dancing/singing extravaganza like the original live show, or would they take that setting and weave a story around it with acting? It turned out to be the latter with a huge stellar cast crafting popular tunes around the story of Satine, the lead act at the Moulin Rouge in Paris being wooed by a poor songwriter and a rich Baron who could save the show for her and her castmates.

The costumes, the staging of the ensemble dance numbers, and the high energy of the cast were all spectacular and the historic Picadilly Theater a stunning venue. I found myself not knowing where to look next because there were amazing performances being executed all over the stage and auxiliary balconies. I think you could see this show many times and still not be able to appreciate and catch all the individual talent. It is truly an extravaganza for the senses!

Does it parallel the show at THE Moulin Rouge in Paris? Not at all and that’s okay. There are some brief can-can dance numbers but that’s about it. If you are coming to the musical to see lots of bare women, that is certainly not the case like it is in Paris, where costumes are teeny tiny and the T & A’s are bare.

I really appreciated the diversity of the musical cast that covered the gamut from short/tall, slim/full-bodied, male/female/trans. Too many times, especially for dance casts, they want everyone to be the same height, the same hair, the same skin, and the same body. Too much sameness is boring. It’s great when a production is inclusive and diverse.

Whatever your taste in theater-musical or drama-find a show to see in the West End while you are in London. Enjoy the journey!

TICKETS

  • Demand pricing affects the ticket prices. Weekends are popular and the most expensive.
  • If you absolutely MUST see a show on your trip, then pay full price and book it in advance so you secure the seats you really want. Check out the view from the seat you are purchasing-most apps will show you this. There are “limited view” seats which are cheaper if you don’t mind seeing the only part of the stage.
  • If you are able to be flexible and buy tickets the day of the performance, you can save money but you probably won’t get the best seats or perhaps you can buy great seats but not sit together. It depends on your priorities.
  • We bought our tickets online from the theater (https://moulinrougemusical.co.uk/london-tickets/) the day of the show after one of my early meetings cancelled and my day freed up. After comparing prices to the TodayTix app site, which is typically the cheapest site, the theater site offered a package deal including early access to their Ambassador Lounge, free program, and refreshments. So, I could pay the same price on the TodayTix app for the seats without the lounge or get the seats plus the lounge from the theater site. We went with the premium experience with the lounge. Enjoy the journey!

AMBASSADOR LOUNGE

  • Luxury cozy lounge in the theater with maximum capacity of about 20 people with lovely wait staff. Yes, please!
  • Nibbles and alcohol were included in the ticket price. Bring on the champagne!
  • Best part of the lounge experience were the private bathrooms you had access to before/during/after show. I will never forget running up several flights of stairs at a performance of Hamilton in Vancouver, Canada with my sister after seeking out a less crowded women’s bathroom in the lowest level of the huge theater at intermission, standing in line and finally using the facilities right before the curtain went back up. Intermissions are typically 20 minutes for theater shows and, in that time, the hundreds of women in the audience have to hope that the lines move quickly at the 20 or less stalls in the Ladies Room. Ridiculous!
  • We also got complimentary programs with this package deal.

SEATS

  • Most theaters are small and beautiful. They are tall not wide and, if you have any fear of heights, don’t book the top balcony seats because they are WAY up there.

NO FILMING/PHOTOS

  • Every theater probably has different policies and methods with regards to filming/photos of the show but please follow whatever they announce. There are reasons for these restrictions-it is distracting for both the audience and the cast if everyone is taking pictures vs. watching the show. Also, for musicals there are problems recording copyrighted music. At the theater where I volunteer as an usher back in Boise, the security team actually takes the patron’s phone if they choose to tape/take pictures when told not to and they make them erase it and, if they refuse, the patron can be arrested. Don’t be that person! The photos in this article were taken before the show started.
  • At the Picadilly Theater, you can take pictures prior to the show starting while they have some of the cast on the stage posing. We got great pictures and stopped once the ushers walked up and down the aisles with the paddles that said “no filming/pictures” right before the show started. The gentleman next to me took a picture during the show and the usher immediately walked next to our row angrily waving their paddle at him. Shame!!

MERCH/PROGRAMS

  • If you want to buy show merchandise, the best idea is to get to the theater early to avoid lines. During intermission and after the show, these usually small booths where they sell the merch are swamped.
  • Programs are not automatically handed out at most theaters. You can purchase one from ushers stationed around the theater.

REFRESHMENTS

  • Picadilly Theater has an unusual policy of allowing patrons to purchase their beverages (alcohol and non-alcoholic) and bring them into the theater to sip during the show. These refreshments are in glass cups. WTH! The seats in this theater are a tight fit with no cup holders though that wouldn’t help with the wine glasses. It is carpeted throughout, but still can you really trust your audience to bring those glasses back to the bar??? Watch your step at intermission and after the show because those glasses are rolling all over the floor under the seats.

London-Tap to Pay Tips

Technology is deeply integrated in any visit to London so be prepared to “tap to pay” and even “tap to pee”! Need to ride the Tube to get anywhere? Tap to pay. Need to go to the loo? Tap to pee. Going through Customs? Scan your passport. At a museum? Scan the QR code to hear about the exhibit or tap to donate to the museums. After a trip to London, you will go to other countries and wander why they aren’t as technically savvy as London. How to make a trip to London go smoothly? Follow these tips!

There are various ways to “tap” to pay. You can tap your credit card if it has a chip. You can tap your phone if it has Google Pay or Apple Pay. If you don’t have either of these methods, for public transportation, you can get an Oyster Card to do the “tap to pay”. Purchase the Oyster Card at one of the service desks at the major train/Tube stations and add money (called “topping off”) as you go in order to ride the Tube or buses. But the easiest and safest way to tap all over town is to use your Smart watch for all tapping. It eliminates getting out your credit card/phone every time and risking theft or misplacing it. Use a VISA for your payment because AMEX sometimes isn’t accepted. We used all these methods as sometimes Thom had some issues with his watch, credit card and phone not working so he relied on the Oyster Card when that happened. Be prepared! You don’t want your companion to be able to go through the turnstile at the Tube and you are left behind not being able to tap in to be with them.

As you enter the front door of the bus or go up to the turnstile in the Tube, hold your payment type (Smart watch, credit card, Oyster card or phone) about an inch away and you should see the light go from yellow to green. If it goes red, it means it isn’t working, which is not to say that it won’t work if you try it again. Wait a second or two and try again, perhaps at another turnstile. We had this happen numerous times and sometimes on the fourth try, it would go “green”. On the bus, if tapping is wonky, the driver will sometimes just wave you in to sit because you are delaying the forward motion of the bus. Remember, you must tap in for the Tube and tap out as well. For the bus, you just have to tap in.

Public bathrooms do exist in London and the nicest facilities that are staffed with an attendant, aka not the street latrines that I avoid at all costs, do cost money. The tech savvy bathrooms have a “tap to pee” model where you tap to get access into the bathrooms. The one I used in Covent Garden market was $1.50 euros and well worth it because it was warm and clean. You may find some bathrooms haven’t been updated yet and require a $1 euro coin to enter so have some of those handy if you visit London.

I appreciate how quick the Custom lines are at Heathrow even with the crush of people moving through this airport. You just scan your passport page and off you go! No waiting in lines to talk to a live person and get a stamp. I have had to wait hours before going through Customs (India, I’m looking at you!) so my sincere hope is that all countries embrace the UK technology and gets with the program. Automate now and save us all some time. Enjoy the journey!

Churchill War Rooms-London

Although I would not consider myself a war buff, in advance of our London trip, I read Erik Larson’s book, “The Splendid and the Vile”. It was a fascinating read to prepare me to visit Churchill War Rooms. This nonfiction book by Erik Larson is based on diaries, first person accounts, military records, etc. that chronicle how Winston Churchill led Britain through WWII to ultimate victory. Visiting this unique “frozen in time” museum is a great addition to any visit to London.

Housing the incredibly well-preserved underground bunker, which served as the control center where the British government ran their war efforts in WWII, you will learn what it was like to live and work beneath the streets of London for months while bombs shook the walls. They won the war, walked away from the war rooms and left everything “as is” to this day. So not only will you learn all about the character and actions of Churchill himself but what it was like for those that worked for him and worked, ate, and slept in the bunker.

Upon entering the underground space at Churchill War Rooms at your designated ticket time (purchase online prior to arriving), the entry fee will get you the audio tour, that will allow you to punch in the #’s on exhibits throughout the space to learn more. In addition to the audio tour, there are stations throughout the museum with videos to watch. I would recommend at least two hours to take it all in for a complete experience.

It is truly fascinating to see how a war was run prior to the internet and technology. No drones, no computers, no cell phones. Just a few rotary phones including the “hot” line from Churchill to President Roosevelt asking for US assistance, which was vital to defeating Hitler’s forces. The map room illustrates the low-tech way that the British tracked their forces on land and sea with pushpins on wall maps. You also get to see Churchill’s pink velour onesie (see pic below) that he liked to wear-what a fashionista he was! His collection of hats is also part of the museum.

VISIT INFO

While most government-run museums like the British Museum are free in London, this museum is 32 euros (under 5 free) and I felt it was worth the expense. Check out the awesome gift shop on your way out. Of course, they sell liquor as all museums do in the UK plus lots of tea and tea-themed merch. “Where there is tea, there is hope.” It was the tea apparently that got them through the war, probably heavily laced with liquor. For the kids or yourself, the Churchill duckie with a cigar is a unique souvenir. We collect rubber ducks for the grandkids and, trust me, this is a great addition to the collection! We already have a Queen Elizabeth duck from our last trip so they can play together.

Situated next to the lovely St. James Park and close to other key attractions like Parliament and Big Ben, plan a whole day in this area of London. Enjoy the journey!

Enjoying Afternoon Tea in London

I had always thought the cost of an afternoon tea to be absurdly expensive in London, but I finally decided to give it a go while on our latest trip. So glad we did! I researched the various popular places for afternoon tea (Fortnum & Mason, the Ritz, etc.) but finally made our reservation at St. Ermin’s, a gorgeous historic hotel near Westminster where we have stayed many times in the past. I have always been so impressed with their high level of service, so I felt sure that an afternoon tea would be special there, and it was indeed the perfect experience.

Our reservation was for 1 pm during the week and it was pleasantly not crowded in the cozy tearoom up the majestic staircase at St. Ermin’s. Settling into our comfy oversized upholstered chairs, we were able to consider the tea menu for our first pots. My first choice to try was a lovely Sencha Gojiberry and Pomegranate Green Tea that ended up being my favorite of the day. Thom went with the classic St. Ermin’s tea to try first. Arriving with our pots was also a timer so that we poured our cups at the perfect brewing time for the best cuppa. Enjoying our tea, our tower of treats came soon after. I was able to get a vegetarian selection of sandwiches (they can do gluten free too!) and Thom got the meat version. There were all delicious and while I originally thought there was no way we would eat it all, we quickly dispatched the savory AND sweet selection, enjoying every single bite and sharing so we could taste each item.

My favorite sandwich was a tasty combo of smashed avocado, tomato, vegan feta, cress and Thom loved the smoked salmon with lemon crème fraiche. As far as favorite sweets, Thom liked all the chocolate ones but we both liked the strawberry and basil trifle served in the little glass cup. Very British!

After the tower of treats was demolished, there was still more tea and food to come! Be sure to allow an hour or two to enjoy your afternoon tea. So much food and tea! Clearing away our dishes to refresh with new ones, our server delivered the final course of freshly baked scones, plain and with raisins, served with clotted cream and jam. We asked our server their preferred way to layer scones with clotted cream on the bottom of the jam or the top. She shared her favorite way to enjoy this UK staple, so we went with her expert opinion and spread the cream (thick like softened butter) and then topped it with jam. With this course, we chose the chai tea served with the milk already added. The spicy tea complemented the scones perfectly.

At $45 euros per person, the afternoon tea not only filled us up with yummy tea and food but gave us a lovely London experience we will never forget. For $55 euros you can add a glass of champagne. Other teas at fancier places can easily cost you up to $100 euros a person. Wherever you choose to go, be sure to make reservations in advance-here is St. Ermin’s site: https://www.sterminshotel.co.uk/eating-drinking/afternoon-tea/ When you visit London, find a lovely afternoon tea to enjoy one afternoon. Relax, sip and enjoy the journey!

Exploring Hampstead and Highgate Cemetery

If you want to get out of central London and take a quick Tube ride to explore new sights, I highly recommend a day spent wander around Highgate Cemetery for hours, then ending your day with a cozy dinner at the historic Spaniard’s Inn. Another day, boutique shop and enjoy a leisurely pub meal in Hampstead, followed by taking in a movie in a luxurious historic theater. I love London and there are unlimited things to do but sometimes it’s nice to get out of the city and have a new adventure!

Highgate Cemetery

Highgate Cemetery is one of the earliest private garden cemeteries in England and well worth a visit. It truly is a “garden” cemetery because nature has taken over and shaped its landscape. There is none of the maintenance like cutting back growth and mowing that you might see in other cemeteries. The large monuments are covered in vines, tilting from tree roots that have grown wild, and vegetation rules everywhere. This is a “for profit” cemetery that lured middle class and upper-class burials away from the more common church graveyards that had become crowded in the 1800s in London.

Allow yourself a few hours to wander this historic Victorian era cemetery north of London. Thom loves cemeteries so we try to check out any interesting ones as we travel. There is an admission fee of $10 and tours are available for $8 more-card payments only/no cash. We opted to wander on our own around both the East side and the West side, each with their own creepy charm. Don’t forget to go in the teeny tiny gift shop where they sell tickets on the East Side and get your unique Karl Marx doll refrigerator magnet. One of a kind! We told them they need to sell stickers (which we collect) but the cashier said they won’t let them sell them and that they had to fight to get the Karl Marx magnets. Okay. Their loss of income. Check open/close times online Highgate Cemetery as they vary by season. When we were there, the last entry was at 3:30 pm, which makes sense especially in the winter when it gets dark at 4 pm. You do NOT want to wander this place at night. Remember Dark Shadows? We went home and immediately watched the movie Fantastic Beasts, which they shot on location in Highgate (substituting for Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, another great place we have visited)

There is a very small amount of parking at the entrance. We took an Uber there and home. Only took about five minutes to get one. There are some bus stops nearby as well but not really anywhere to walk from/to and no close by Tube stations so plan your transportation accordingly.

West Side Cemetery

This side was the first to open of the two in 1839. Stay on the paths. Don’t disrespect the very old dead people. Use the maps you can get where you buy tickets to read about the people buried here and to make sure you don’t get too lost. We headed down the main drive to the far back to check out the Circle of Lebanon, Egyptian Avenue, and the Terrace Catacombs (great scenes in Fantastic Beasts of these spots). Speaking of beasts, when we saw a huge lion statue guarding a gravesite, we looked up and saw that buried under the lion was George Wombwell, the owner of several travelling animals shows and the statue represents Nero, his very own lion. This side is the most “prestigious” area to be buried. George Michael is buried on this side-I didn’t even know he was dead. He is described in the pamphlet as “one of the most significant cultural figures of the MTV generation.”

East Side Cemetery

Your entry ticket covers both sides, so we had to check out this side too because Karl Marx is buried here. Lots of flowers left here for Karl by visitors. As we wandered back, we saw a simple headstone that had bowls of pens left by visitors. Hmmm…a writer perhaps? Consulting our guide and looking at the engraving we discovered that buried there was Douglas Adams, author of Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxies, a favorite book of Thom’s. You never know who you will find at the cemetery!

Spaniard’s Inn

After a long walk amongst the dead at Highgate, we were hungry and nearby just happened to be the lovely Spaniard’s Inn, established in 1585. We grabbed an Uber and a few minutes later were able to enjoy a wood-burning fireplace, low (not for those with any height) wood beamed ceilings and cozy wood booths. Mentioned in Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers and Bram Stoker’s Dracula, this place oozes British charm. The food was very good as well! I had a warm goat cheese salad; Thom had the traditional Shepherd’s pie, and we shared a sticky toffee pudding. Our booth was near the front window on the street, where that section of road is a “blind” which means with no signing whatsoever, cars and buses have to navigate a section that is only wide enough for one vehicle. In the old times, carriages and horseback riders could make it through but, because there is a historical gatehouse on one side and Spaniard’s Inn on the other and neither could be torn down to widen the road, they just somehow make it work. We saw many a vehicle backing up because the opposing driver was more aggressive and drove into the blind first. Chaos! Let’s just say that the double decker bus always won the right of way and rightly so.

I would recommend reservations if you are going at peak dining hours. They have a huge garden dining space that doubles their capacity in the summer.

Hampstead

Eager to check out another village close by, we took the Tube to Hampstead, known as the place where Harry Styles lives. It is certainly more posh than our village. How so? Well, there were many clothing boutiques, optical stores and cafes/pubs. Our village has more ethnic groceries/cafes and thrift stores-absolutely no boutiques. It was fun seeing how the other half lives. Lots of fancy folks walking around with their dogs. It’s easy to see why if you have the money, you live here in the lovely quaint village and commute to London, about 20 minutes away by Tube. If you have time, check out the luxury movie theater, Everyman, that is an intimate space with overstuffed chairs or couches with full bar/food service to your seats. It is just lovely, and I wish we had this theater experience back home. I would go all the time. Enjoy the journey!