Category: Travel

Welcome to My Baltimore aka Charm City!

On By Travels with MelindaIn Baltimore, Maryland, Travel, travel tips, travelling1 Comment

I have been playing tourist throughout my first year living in Baltimore and now I can help the lucky folks visiting this beautiful, diverse city with my list of recommended places to explore. Get ready, here are my tips to enjoy the “Charm City”!

First off, you may be wondering why Baltimore is often called the Charm City. Well, Baltimore is indeed very “charming” but it got its nickname in the 1970s when the mayor decided to do an advertising campaign to counter some challenges with rising crime and an economic downturn. So, he created a tourism campaign calling Baltimore the “Charm City” to highlight the city’s good side vs. the issues they were facing. The campaign offered visitors the opportunity to pick up a charm bracelet when they visited Baltimore. Visitors could then receive charms at each of the highlighted attractions they visited. One of the charms was a crab-of course! The goal was to make the charm both a souvenir and a tangible reminder of Baltimore’s unique appeal. The promo wasn’t considered successful at the time but the nickname “Charm City” has hung on. I have yet to see one of these charm bracelets but I’m hoping to find one in an antique store one day.

Whether coming here for a conference or just a weekend to see the Orioles or Ravens play (I can walk to both stadiums from my house-how lucky am I??), there is so much to be enjoyed so I’ve broken it down by areas of town. There are many other wonderful places to experience in Baltimore, and I look forward to discovering them all, but I only write about what I know. Baltimore is a special place and I’m happy to call it home. One of our famous residents, John Waters, summarizes the spirit of Baltimore best: “I would never want to live anywhere but Baltimore. You can look far and wide, but you’ll never discover a stranger city with such extreme style. It’s as if every eccentric in the South decided to move north, ran out of gas in Baltimore, and decided to stay.”

INNER HARBOR/FEDERAL HILL

I live in Federal Hill and can walk to the Inner Harbor in ten minutes so we go there a lot!  Here are the highlights of this beautiful area that should be on every visitor’s must see list:

Federal Hill Park was discovered by John Smith in 1608, and sits above the Inner Harbor providing the best view of Baltimore. This hill played a role in several wars including the War of 1812 and the Civil War. Tunnels were built under the hill to store ammunition. I walk this park every day with my dog as we live just a block away. I feel lucky to see this awesome view on every walk. There is a great playground for the kiddos here. Bmore Licks has the BEST homemade ice cream and is just a short walk away. Trust me you must try this ice cream. If you are needing food and not just ice cream, walk a block to The Outpost for dinner, a cute neighborhood joint. We love their Happy Hour from 4-6. If you want a variety of food to pick from, you can go a few blocks from the park to Cross Street Market where you can get pizza, empanadas, diner food, cocktails, etc. African Jollof Bowl at Cross Street Market was recently featured on national news for their spicy soulful food. Expect lines!

Maryland Science Center is THE place for kids to run around for hours on the several floors to see dinosaurs, fly paper airplanes, lay on a bed of nails and check out all the hands-on science exhibits. Entrance fees may seem pricey at $29.95 adults/$21.95 kids but you really can spend the whole day there. We have a yearly pass and go there often. Right on the harbor, just a block away from Federal Hill Park.

The American Visionary Art Museum is $15.95 and totally worth the price of admission. Located at the base of Federal Hill Park, the gift shop is the best museum gift shop I’ve ever been in. If you just want to shop, tell the front desk and there is no charge to visit the gift shop. Make sure to check out all the museum buildings and their outside sculptures. One building has unique art exhibits that are always changing and one has super cool kinetic sculptures in it. Closed on Monday/Tuesday.

National Aquarium is another all-day destination. We have a yearly pass for the whole family because it is pricey for just one visit at $50 adult/$40 child. That being said, it’s worth it. It is vast with so many things to see and experience. Check out the daily schedule for events. Be sure to check out the wetlands outside and don’t miss the rain forest. Dolphins cavorting in their big pool are fun to watch as well.

Fort McHenry should be on every visitor’s list. Not only is it a beautiful waterfront park you can walk around (cherry blossoms galore in the Spring!) but going through the visitors center and the well preserved fort ($15 fee for this entry) brings Baltimore’s rich history to life. O Say Can You See!

HARBOR EAST/LITTLE ITALY

Once you walk around Inner Harbor, just past the National Aquarium, you will be in the Harbor East/Little Italy neighborhood. Harbor East is the upscale area downtown where you’ll find the Four Seasons hotel on the water, shops like Anthropologie, Warby Parker, Madewell, etc. and a Whole Foods grocery. Up for some jazz? We love going to Keystone Korner, where you can enjoy good food and watch a variety of jazz acts. We frequent Harbor East Cinemas, which features plush recliners and cocktails while you watch movies. If you want to eat where Prince Harry recently visited when he was in town, go to upscale Charleston, where James Beard award winner Chef Cindy Wolf will make your French/Low Country meal memorable. Also in this area is the Reginald F. Lewis Museum  that celebrates African American art, story, and culture in Maryland. Check it out!

Settled by Italian immigrants in the late 1800’s, Little Italy has lots of family-run restaurants, outdoor bocce courts where leagues play throughout the summer and fall and cultural events including an outdoor film festival each summer. It is very charming. More info here: https://baltimore.org/neighborhoods/little-italy/

La Scala is just one of the Italian restaurants in Little Italy but it distinguishes itself because you can also play bocce ball at their indoor court. The summer dress code is as follows: “No Hats are allowed; Ladies and Gentlemen: No tank tops or sportswear. Shorts are acceptable.” La Scala offers a Complimentary Shuttle Service accommodating up to 11 guests and is available for those within 2.5 miles of the restaurant so if you are staying in the Inner Harbor, you can use this service to get there. Go throw some bocce balls while enjoying outstanding pasta. Just don’t wear a tank top!

Vaccaro’s Bakery is legendary in Baltimore. Around since the 1950’s, you can’t go wrong with the Italian cookies, the cannoli’s, and they also serve lunch. We got a sampler box of all their top sellers and it did not disappoint.

FELLS POINT

If you keep walking about the harbor just past Little Italy, you’ll find Fells Point, which is a historic waterfront neighborhood established in 1763 and just a few blocks east of the Inner Harbor. You could walk from Federal Hill to Fells Point or take the free commuter ferry across the Inner Harbor. Known for its maritime history, it features cobblestone streets, over 161 buildings on the National Historic Register, and a vibrant atmosphere with numerous restaurants, shops, and pubs. The Saturday Farmer’s Market in Broadway Square is filled with good food and handmade items. Don’t miss the hummus stand with the delicious pita chips-look for the line!

Fells Point has served as the home to jazz singer Billie Holiday and abolitionist Frederick Douglass. You can visit the Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Park Museum | Visit Baltimore and learn more this piece of Baltimore history.  Stroll the cobblestone Thames Street for the best boutique shopping in downtown Baltimore. Want a more casual meal? Established in 1784, the Broadway Market in Fell’s Point is now a bustling food hall with a variety of food stalls. I highly recommend Sophia’s Place European Deli for amazing soups, desserts (cheesecake!) and chicken pot pies. All homemade and delicious!

Take a US Ghost Adventure tour around spooky Fells Point (at night!). We took one last fall and it was a great way to learn about the history of the area AND to see if you could spot a ghost. Use this code: https://usghostadventures.com?ref=y2eyngu to book and save 10% off! Check out on your tour the Horse You Came in on Saloon – Originally founded in 1775, the oldest saloon in America still serves drinks and sometimes ghostly offerings. Poe supposedly hung out here during his Baltimore years!

If you want a really cool hotel experience, The Sagamore Pendry is gorgeous. With an outside infinity pool overlooking the harbor, they also have a spa and a fancy restaurant and cocktail bar. My daughter and I went for a special “movie night” last fall and roasted marshmallows while watching movies projected onto a screen by the pool. If I ever do a “staycation”, this is where I will go.

MOUNT VERNON/REMINGTON/DRUID HILL

The Baltimore Museum of Art is free and open Wednesday through Sunday. Well worth the 15 minute drive from the Inner Harbor area. Eat lunch at the fabulous restaurant on site, Gertrude’s, one of the best in the city. Go for a cocktail right down the street at Mama Kokos after you hit up the BMoA. It’s a vibe.

The Walters Art Museum is free and open Wednesday through Sunday. Admission is free! Then check out one of the most majestic libraries in the country, Peabody Library, which is a block from the Walters. Check the open hours though before you go as they vary by week. Also in the neighborhood is a cool indie bookstore and cafe, Red Emma’s. Who doesn’t love a bookstore? You could walk from the Inner Harbor to this area-about 1.5 miles.

Maryland Zoo is expansive so wear your walking shoes. Feed a giraffe, watch the penguins play and get a boozy Snowball. If you have any energy left, check out indie bookstore, Atomic Books, close by.

Rawlings Conservatory is free (donation suggested) and is next to the Zoo. There you can enjoy not only beautiful plants but the atrium is stunning. Definitely worth a stop if you go to the Zoo.

WEST BALTIMORE

The B & O Railroad Museum is the perfect place for train geeks. Baltimore is known as the birthplace of American railroading, as the first stone of the railroad was laid here and where the nation’s first mile of commercial railroad was constructed.

Edgar Allen Poe is one of Baltimore’s many famous citizens. The Poe House and Museum chronicles the tragic life of this author. You can also take a bus tour and explore the enduring mystery surrounding of Edgar Allan Poe’s life and death in Baltimore. Each bus tour begins at the Baltimore Visitor’s Center on the Inner Harbor and stops at Poe’s graves (he has two!) plus the sites where Poe was found and where he passed away. If you don’t have a car, this is the way to explore Poe while you are in town ($49/person).

Don’t want to venture out on your own?

Take a Baltimore Walking Tour 2026 Baltimore Monuments Walking Tour (with Reviews) to cover the key local, national and historical experiences through monuments and statues.

Baltimore historians give great walking and boat tours as part of the Heritage Society: Events – Baltimore Heritage Love historic cemeteries? They have a tour for you! They can help you climb into the catacombs to see Poe’s gravesite. We took a Federal Hill tour because that is our neighborhood and we wanted to understand the history of where we lived. The guides are passionate about history and make it come alive for you.

“MUST HAVE” CHARM CITY FOOD

  1. Berger Cookies available at the groceries around town. Thick layer of chocolate fudge on top of a vanilla soft cookie. It is to die for! When my sister visited, she liked them so much she loaded up her suitcase with several packages to take home.
  2. Bmore Licks ice cream-several locations/unique flavors in hard or soft serve. We live a block away and often get several pints to go! Banana pudding is my favorite.
  3. Egg Custard Snowball-snowball stands all over town. Maryland Zoo has boozy snowballs. Just sayin’.
  4. Lemon stick-famously served at the mid-Spring Flower Mart. Lemon with a peppermint stick! Sucking on the stick and squeezing the lemon produces a sweet, minty, lemony drink that is uniquely Baltimore.
  5. Café Dear Leon for the famous crab bagel. Expect lines and they sell out quickly-get there when they open at 6 am Tuesday-Sunday!
  6. Kocos Pub is renowned for its crab cakes-lunch or dinner. The best of Baltimore!
  7. Seafood at Locust Point Steamers in Federal Hill-get out the hammer and crack crabs! Maryland crab season peaks from July-September for the meatiest crabs.
  8. Enjoy an Aperol spritz outside on the waterfront in Inner Harbor on a beautiful day at Bellini’s Harborview or go for a spectacular sunset view. Get pizza or sandwiches at the Italian deli next door at  Dipasquales.
  9. Ekiben is on everyone’s must eat list when in Baltimore and is a James Beard finalist serving unique spin on Asian + Ethiopian cuisine. We can walk to one of their locations to get takeout. Casual dining at its finest!
  10. Gertrudes at Baltimore Museum of Art for Maryland features locally sourced farm-fresh food that preserves Chesapeake culinary traditions with crab, oysters and shrimp entrees. Get the warm hush puppies with lemon curd and homemade preserves. Oh my!!!
  11. Mama Kokos for coffee and cocktails and food. Known for it’s cool vibe no matter what time of day.
  12. Nihao for all you can eat upscale Chinese weekend brunch. You must get the scallion pancake-unlike any you have ever had!

GETTING AROUND BALTIMORE

Driving:

Baltimore is like any big city in that driving can be challenging. I try to not drive and get around by walking, ferry, bus and Uber/Lyft. If you must drive, I hope you have a small car to navigate tiny streets and you know how to parallel park in a tight space. You’ll notice residents tuck their side mirrors to avoid getting them ripped off by passing cars. There are many one-way streets, so pay attention. We still remind my husband of the time he went the wrong way before executing a quick U-turn. With that in mind, look both ways when crossing one-way streets as bikes, scooters, and even cars go the wrong way. Another Baltimore heads up is that many (and I do mean many!) cars do not stop at stop signs-it’s more of a suggestion in Baltimore. Drive and walk accordingly. Be safe out there!

Inner Harbor ferry service:

Baltimore’s Inner Harbor has two main ferry-style services: the free Harbor Connector (public transit Mon-Fri) and the paid Baltimore Water Taxi (on‑demand + sightseeing). Both operate from multiple Inner Harbor piers and are the primary ways to move around the waterfront by boat.

Bus Service:

The Charm City Circular bus is free and stops at over 100 places along five routes, passing through some of Baltimore’s best-known neighborhoods—from Mount Vernon to Federal Hill, and from the University of Maryland to Harbor East.

Train Service:

We are so lucky to have an Amtrak here in Baltimore! From its downtown location, we have been able to hop onto trains to travel up and down the East Coast to Washington, DC, New York, Boston, Philadelphia, etc. If you are arriving by train to Baltimore, it’s probably easiest to just grab an Uber or Lyft to get to where you are going.

Arriving from BWI Airport:

To take the light rail from BWI Airport to downtown Baltimore’s Penn Station, follow these details:

  • The BWI Marshall Airport Light Rail Station is located immediately outside the lower level of the terminal building, adjacent to Concourse E.
  • Travel Time: The journey takes about 30 minutes to downtown.
  • To go to Penn Station, exit the train at Mt. Royal Avenue and take the Penn Station Light Rail. There is only one fare for both trains at $2.00 each way. From there, you can take an Uber or Lyft to get to where you are going.
  • Frequency: Trains run every 20 to 30 minutes.
  • For more information, you can check the official MTA Light Rail page here.

IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO SUPPORT SOME OF THE DIVERSE BUSINESSES IN BALTIMORE HERE IS LIST OF JUST A FEW:

BLACK OWNED BUSINESSES*:

  • Urban Reads Bookstore (Charles Village)
  • Vinyl & Pages/Cuples Tea House (Inner Harbor)
  • Tribe Social cafe (downtown)
  • Mama Kokos (north downtown)
  • Ekiben (several locations-great food)
  • Koba Café (Federal Hill)
  • Yebo Kitchen (Charles Village)
  • Taharka (best ice cream-several locations but I go to the one at Cross St. Market)

WOMAN OWNED BUSINESSES*:

  • Atomic Books (Hampden)
  • Greedy Reads (Fells Point)
  • The Urban Oyster (Hampden)
  • Blue Moon Café (several locations-we go to the one in Federal Hill)
  • Oleum (vegetarian) (downtown)
  • Charleston (Fells Point)
  • The Empanada Lady (downtown)
  • Pandora’s Box (Federal Hill) Just blocks away from me, I go there for gifts!

LGBTQ+ OWNED/SUPPORTED BUSINESSES*:

  • Red Emma’s Bookstore (Mount Vernon) Near Peabody Library/Walters Art Museum
  • Charm City Books (Seton Hill) Love their shop dog!
  • Atomic Books (where John Waters receives his fan mail so you may run into him!)
  • Lord Baltimore Hotel (downtown)
  • The William Fell hotel (downtown)
  • Hotel Revival (downtown)
  • Papermoon Diner (near the Baltimore Museum of Art) the vibe is so cool here!
  • Bird in Hand Café and Bookstore (Charles Village)
  • Bmore Licks – best ice cream! (Federal Hill)

*I realize that there are hundreds of businesses in each of these categories but here are just a few that I personally know of!

ENJOY YOUR BALTIMORE JOURNEY!

Girls Trip 2024 to the Netherlands: Amazing Moments

On By Travels with MelindaIn Amsterdam, Girls Trip, Netherlands, The Hague, Travel, travel essentials, travel hacks, Travel medical care, travel tips, travelling, vacationLeave a comment

Travelling is always magical, so to end 2024, I’m celebrating by sharing the details of my fall trip to the Netherlands. Then, it’s on to 2025 and new adventures exploring the world! On my recent Girls Trip, we enjoyed a string of moments I hope I never forget. They were special and unique to our Netherlands adventure. Girls trips are important to me for many reasons. It’s quality time with my sisters who live far away. Though we have done video chats weekly since the pandemic, the fun of exploring new places and having great adventures together is precious to me.

While we did have an itinerary and had discussed in general what we wanted to see and do on our Netherlands trip in September, we remained flexible and pivoted based on how we were feeling each day and the weather. Sure delays happen and other issues can crop up but if you take these bumps in stride, take a deep breath and enjoy the journey, then the travel magic will unfold. One special day, we jumped on a tram in Den Haag aka The Hague going in the wrong direction, so we enjoyed seeing Delft a day early and then got on the tram going in the “right” direction to walk the beach at the North Sea. It all worked out and was a lovely day. Go with the flow! As Patti and I wandered around The Hague, we tried out new names for a girls trip blog. This was the winner: Ladies Who Get Lost (but have fun).

We enjoyed a wide variety of global cuisines in this expat friendly city where many international folks work at the nearby Peace Palace (take a tour here, either in the building or in the garden-both are special and only available at certain times of the year) and International Peace Court. One rainy night we looked out our hotel room window and saw the lights shining bright at a Filipino restaurant so out we went. Entering the festive place, the host informed us that a private party had taken over most of the restaurant for a buffet and karaoke night but, if we didn’t mind, we could still be seated and eat. Party on! We had a blast listening to all the singers take turns, though we declined when invited to join in, preferring to be the audience vs. the talent. This is an evening I won’t soon forget and it would have been so easy to go somewhere a little quieter but we had a blast. We also had great Italian close by our hotel and an amazing Chinese dinner in the largest Chinatown in the Netherlands.

My favorite liquids in the Hague varied from locally brewed liquors to the fresh mint infused tea served almost everywhere. At the Van Cleef distillery in business since 1842, we ordered one liquor tasting with multiple shots and, after quickly tasting that one, we ordered another. Heaven on our palates! From apple pie to salted caramel and raspberry and cherry infused liquors, we were sad to hear that they didn’t ship to the US. So we bought a few bottles, got some plastic travel bottles from the dept. store Primark to put the liquor in vs. the glass bottles they came in, and safely transported our liquor home to enjoy! I love that Patti kept her liquor in the spritz container and gave herself a quick spray into her mouth when she needed a shot.

Our other favorite liquid beverage on our trip was their very special mint tea. Imagine our surprise when we ordered mint tea only to have actual huge mint leaves come in the hot water. It was really a herbal infusion, like drinking a mint garden in your mouth. This wasn’t just a house specialty-it was available almost everywhere we went. Back in the US, I have never seen it done like this-probably too many rules about randomly serving fresh leaves. Does every café have a mint garden out back or on the roof? Fresh mint delivered daily? I would travel there again just to have this specialty. Oh, and I’d probably grab some of that booze too while I was there and take it back.

Having passed by a crystal spiritual store, Ananda Spiritual Living, on one of our jaunts, Patti and I went back to shop for some souvenirs. They had a huge variety of crystals and all things spiritual. Their tarot reader was available (only $15 each-very reasonable!) so we each took a turn to see what the cards would tell us. Mine was spot on, affirming all the changes that would soon be happening in our lives as our whole generational family moves from Boise to Baltimore in January. Whether you believe in Tarot or not, it was a unique experience and isn’t that what travel is all about? Do what you wouldn’t normally do back at home!

Having heard about the Hague forest on our walking tour, we decided to strike out and try to find it one morning. After a quick smudge on a park bench for my new crystal gifted to me by Patti, I looked up and saw a herd of deer in the close distance. WTH! Right across from the train station in Den Hague is a deer preserve where a large herd roams and the bucks bellow. We watched as they were fed by the park employees and saw the bucks try to assert dominance with a few well placed head butts. Oh fellas, chill out!

The main place to explore art in The Hague is the Mauritshuis Museum: https://www.mauritshuis.nl/en/, where the famous Girl with the Pearl earring painting by Vermeer is their centerpiece. This museum is centrally located in The Hague and after visiting, you can stroll the wide path by the moat with the island. It’s a truly lovely museum with cozy rooms to view the art.

About those “bumps in the road” that can happen when you travel, we ended up in the Hague Emergency Room at the local hospital one night. Patti had gotten an infection in a cut on her finger and it was looking like it needed medical attention. Here is my advice if this happens to you when you are travelling. If at a hotel, go to your front desk and get their recommendation on closest pharmacy, doctor, hospital, etc. depending on what you need. There might even be possibility of doctor visiting you at hotel if your medical condition warrants it or calling an ambulance. We thought we might be able to get medicine at a pharmacy to help her. Many European pharmacists are able to talk to customers and prescribe medications without a doctor’s order. So off we went to the nearest pharmacy open in the evening which happened to be at a hospital. The pharmacist took one look at Patti’s wound and said we should go to ER and doctor would have to look at it and prescribe an antibiotic. So off we went! $300 and a few hours later, we just barely made it to the pharmacy to get our required drugs to take care of Patti before they closed. Quite an adventure! Make sure you travel with a list of any medications you are taking and any medical conditions (like high blood pressure) that might affect what a doctor might prescribe.

Once we left the Hague and went to Amsterdam, we had a more structured schedule-so many museums, canals, etc. to see! Our hotel, the Apollo Marriott, was right on a major intersection of canals and our room had a corner window eye level with the water. Lovely! While a bit out of the downtown core, it was a quick tram to all the sights. One highlight for us was going to a historic church for an art installation featuring Van Gogh and Rembrandt art projected onto the walls and ceilings while we lay on a big bean bag on the floor and took it all in. So. Groovy. We were probably the only ones attending who weren’t high but it was still mind blowing and I will never forgot the experience. Seek out these type of events when you travel-you won’t regret it!

Needing some immersion in nature, we sought out the big urban Vondelpark. With wide paths winding through the park and lots of forest and lake space, we enjoyed the beautiful day. We had a wildlife encounter with an array of different birds including a green parakeet flying around. We finally took a seat, took off our shoes and socks and felt the grass ourselves while the guys next to us enjoyed their cigar size joint blowing our way. Meditating and taking in the “fresh” air, we got our chakras aligned and well. We also got in touch with all the water that is everywhere in the Netherlands with canal tours and a trip to the Windmill Village, Zaanse Schans. We booked a tour to visit this scenic place through Viator and it included the bus trip (about an hour each way) plus a visit to a clog-making workshop and cheese farm. Once we got to the windmills, we got to go inside, climb up to the top and hear all about the history of the windmills. Well worth a half day visit if you have time.

Of course, when in Amsterdam, trips to museums are warranted as some of the best in the world are there. Get tickets in advance online for all visits. Start at the Van Gogh Museum to admire masterpieces by Van Gogh, The Museum about Vincent van Gogh in Amsterdam – Van Gogh Museum. Visit the Rijks museum and see iconic Dutch art, including Rembrandt’s works, https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en. Of course, you need to tour the historic Anne Frank House while in Amsterdam and learn about her life during WWII. Book your tickets the minute they become available for the date you want-this is a “must see” for all tourists and they sell out fast: Home | Anne Frank House.

Our last night of the trip warranted a fancy place for dinner so off we went to The Siren for good food, cocktails and great photos of the amazing interior featuring “the siren” the place is named after. Make reservations at:  Home – The Siren and treat yourself to a night out in Amsterdam. Enjoy the journey!

Milan, Italy – A to Z Travel Tips

On By Travels with MelindaIn Italy, Milan, Travel, travel essentials, travel hacks, travel tips, travelling, UncategorizedLeave a comment

We got to spend a lovely week in Milan when we visited recently for a Bruce Springsteen concert that unfortunately never happened due to Bruce’s illness. Oh well, disappointed not to see Bruce but it’s always wonderful to be in Italy. Milan is a working town vs. the historically preserved Florence that we had spent two weeks in earlier. In WWII, a large portion of Milan was leveled by Allied bombs and you can see that by the mix of a few older buildings and mostly modern structures in the city core. That the Duomo, The Last Supper, Sforza Castle, and other beautiful landmarks survived the bombings is a miracle.

Here’s a suggested itinerary for a week plus practical travel tips to follow during your stay in Milan. Enjoy the journey!

Day 1: Explore the Heart of Milan and luxury shopping

  1. Piazza del Duomo: Duomo di Milano – Official Website (duomomilano.it)
    • Start your day at the magnificent Milan Cathedral (Il Duomo). Get the guided tour with roof access. Milan Super Saver: Skip-the-Line Duomo and Rooftop Guided Tour 2024 (viator.com). We loved this tour and you won’t believe the views from the top! Pay extra for use of the elevator with this tour package if you don’t love climbing steps.
    • Climb Brunelleschi’s Dome for panoramic views.
    • Explore the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower.
  2. Explore the Vittoria Emanuele Gallerie:  https://www.ingalleria.com/en
    • Opposite the Duomo, spend time at cafes and shopping at high end stores. Under the central dome is a floor mosaic with the Savoy Coat of Arms. According to legend, you will have good luck if you step with your right foot on the bull and twirl around 360 degrees around with your eyes closed. Don’t worry about finding it-there will be tourists lined up to take a turn!
  3. Golden Quadrangle:
    • Stroll along Via Monte Napoleone and Via Alessandro Manzoni.
    • Window shop at luxury boutiques like LV, Fendi, Armani, and Gucci. If you are a serious shopper, make an appointment in advance.
    • Visit the High Line Outlet for shopping on a budget (located out of town).
  4. Visit La Scala Theater either by taking in a performance (lots of ballet, opera, etc.-get tickets in advance) or book a guided tour: https://www.museoscala.org/en/visit/museum-and-theater/guided-tour-of-the-theater.html. We went on the tour because the tickets are pretty expensive but I’m sure it would be a wonderful experience.

Day 2: Art, History, and Vintage Cars

Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco): Welcome to Castello Sforzesco Official Site | Castello Sforzesco Official Website (milanocastello.it) Spend the day wandering the grounds and the museum!

  • Explore the castle and its museums.
  • Admire Michelangelo’s unfinished sculptures.
    1. Vintage Fiat 500 Tour:
    2. Navigli District-Spend evening wanders in the canals that has lots of cafes and shops. Take a cruise down the canal: Milan: Navigli District Guided Canal Cruise | GetYourGuide. We even had a musical journey with a wonderful sax player entertaining us on our cruise.

    Day 3: Art and Chapels

    1. Santa Maria delle Grazie:
    2. Sant’Ambrogio Basilica: Home page – Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio (basilicasantambrogio.it)
      • Visit this ancient church with stunning mosaics.
      • Explore the nearby Sant’Eustorgio Basilica.
    3. Jazz-Take in a show at the Blue Note Jazz Club famous for it’s musical variety Jazz Club, Ristorante, Location Eventi Milano | Blue Note (bluenotemilano.com)

    Day 4: Brera Neighborhood

    1. Pinacoteca di Brera neighborhood:

    Day 5: Parks, Museum, and Cemetery

    1. Parco Sempione:
      • Relax in this beautiful park near Sforza Castle.
      • Visit the Arch of Peace (Arco della Pace).
    2. Monumental Cemetery https://monumentale.comune.milano.it/
    3. Leonardo Museum https://www.leonardo3.net/en/

    Day 6+: Day Trips

    If you have the time, Milan is the perfect hub to take day trips from, so off you go on your own to the train station (about one hour trip if you get the express-$8 euro each way) or get a guided bus tour at Day Trips from Milan | GetYourGuide.  Popular choices are to visit Lake Como but be prepared for an 11 hour day to/from on a bus with stops along the way and a boat cruise.

    Vareena: We went to Vareena for the day by train from Milan. Buy your tickets for the train online. Leaves from main station, Milano Centrale. When you arrive in Vareena, walk down to the water and take the trail along the lake that leads to shops/cafes with great views of the harbor. As the masses exit the train, they headed right for the ferry to take a boat ride across Lake Como. We walked instead and waited for the next ferry (they come every 30 minutes or so). Buy a ticket at the standby the ferry dock ($9 euros per person round trip from Vareena to Bellagio) and wait in line. Grab a seat on the top (outside or inside seats) and prepare to enjoy the view and relax. You can just ride over and stay on the boat to ride back or you can get off and walk about Bellagio and take a later ferry back.

    Remember to savor Italian cuisine especially the risotto dishes, indulge in gelato, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere of Milan!

    TRANSPORTATION IN MILAN

    • The car traffic is heavy in Milan so allow lots of time to get where you want to go, even with taxis able to take the bus lane. We stayed at a hotel out of the city near San Siro Stadium (to see the Bruce concert that didn’t happen) so we ended up taking a lot of taxis when we couldn’t use the bus/subway combo to get somewhere. The buses/subways are well used so be prepared to stand and be packed in with people. The trolleys are cute and can get you around the city core. One day we just hopped on one near Sforza Castle and rode it all the way around town. You tap to pay to take all public transportation-the machine is on the bus/trolley, or you tap to get through the gate into the subway.
    • You will see A LOT of graffiti on buildings in Milan. Not street art but random writing on buildings. The landmarks are not tagged or, if they are, they clean them up, but most other buildings are defaced. Life in an urban environment!
    • Flying in and out of Milan-there is an international airport (Malpensa) and a local airport (Linate) on opposite ends of town. Make sure to specify which one you want to go to. If you have any VAT to apply for, you must get your receipts (given to you by the store you bought at) BEFORE you go through security. Then, on the other side of security, you will see an office for “tax refund” and you take your paperwork there to get the VAT refund. We learned the hard way and did not get the required stamp and didn’t want to go back so we just left without it despite Thom shopping his way through the swanky Milan men’s boutiques.

    Many of the smaller airports don’t have gates attached to terminal so you board buses to get to and from the plane to the terminal. Make sure you are able to carry your luggage and do stairs up and down to get on planes. Otherwise, use only larger airports. Florence’s airport and Milan’s Linate airports both use buses for some flights.

    CURRENCY

    Italy uses the euro. Bring a coin purse because you will get a lot of coins as change. Only bills are 5, 10, 20, etc. The coins are 1, 2 and all under 1. I started using a baggie, but it looked so tacky I bought a small coin bag in Florence.

    RESTROOMS

    You need to have a few 1 and 50 cent coins with you at all times to get into public bathrooms, which are usually clean and some even have attendants. Bring tissues with you too as toilet paper can be scarce. Also, hand sanitizer is a must have.

    If there aren’t public bathrooms, go to a big busy cafe or department store where they can’t track all patrons and go right through to the bathroom. Don’t ask permission. The main attractions will all have bathrooms, but most will be located past entry if there is an entry fee.

    FOOD

    • Milan is known for their risotto (northern Italy) vs. pasta (southern Italy). The classico Milanese risotto version has saffron, and cheese and it is delicious. I wanted to lick the plate clean.
    • Don’t worry-gelato is everywhere in Italy. There are also exquisite pastries in the shops so when you need that espresso to keep you going, there are sweet treats to enjoy as well.
    • Aperitivo starts early afternoon until about 7 and dinner starts at 8-restaurants don’t even open until then so have a late lunch. You’ll get snacks with a spritz, usually olives, chips, nuts so you won’t be starving when you get your meal at 9 pm.
    • Cafes in the Galleria looked like a great place (expensive) to get a drink or bite, and people watch.
    • Pistachios are a big thing all over Italy. Pistachios are included in croissants, cannolis, gelato, etc.

    DRESS

    • Since Milan is the Italian capital of fashion, finance, and industry, you will see men dressed well, usually during the day in suits. Women are styled from head to toe as well. Tourists do stand out here, wearing lots of resort wear in June, when we were there. Lots of bright print dresses and shorts. I always wear black when I travel so I looked very urban by comparison. What you wear is up to you. Just wear comfortable shoes! Every time I saw a woman in pointed toe heels, I shook my head in amazement. How do they walk in those, let alone on cobbled streets???
    • Men in their fine suits don’t wear socks with their Italian loafers. Why? Maybe they want to show their ankles? I need to know.
    • Handbags are important here. At dinner, the well-styled couple next to us went to the manager and got a stool for her large designer handbag so it would not have to rest on the floor. Still not enough, the gallant gentleman put a cloth napkin on the stool before the handbag was placed. I was then also given a stool for my $25 Amazon travel bag, which has rested on floors all over the world. When in Italy!

    Galileo Museum in Florence

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Galileo Museum, Italy, Museum, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

    You will leave the Galileo Museum in Florence in awe of the immense body of work this one human attained during his lifetime. This museum not only highlights all his accomplishments but also provides insight into his personal life as well. We got the audio guide to help guide us through all the exhibits from astronomy to medical to architecture and more. Galileo was constantly inventing and learning. This hidden gem in back of the Uffizi with great views of the River Arno is definitely worth a visit.

    Galileo (1564-1642) was an astronomer, inventor, physicist, engineer and mathematician. What a mind! Living during a time where science was viewed with skepticism and often judged as being in opposition to religious beliefs in very Catholic Italy, Galileo managed to alienate the Pope of that time. Oops! He was tried by inquisition for heresy and forced to live the rest of his life under house arrest. However, he used this seclusion as time to continue his life’s work, which is on display and celebrated in this museum.

    You enter the museum and have a chance to see all the astronomical instruments he and others invented to enable scientific observations of celestial objects. His collection of telescopes is featured in one room and in another the microscopes he created. Of course, his inventions were appropriated at one point for military uses, for example enabling better navigation with his compasses. 

    I won’t begin to provide all the biographical details about Galileo, but you can read more about him here: Galileo Galilei – Wikipedia OR you could just start planning a trip to Florence so you can experience Galileo’s life in person at this wonderful museum!

    VISIT:

    You can buy your tickets online at https://www.museogalileo.it/en/ or at the door. This is not like the Uffizi, which is on every tourist’s list, so the lines are not long to get in. When we visited, there were local children school groups taking tours but, in general, the museum was not crowded. Enjoy the journey!

    Visiting Sforza Castle in Milan

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Italy, Milan, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

    Every first Sunday of the month, Sforza Castle in Milan throws open their very large gates and welcomes all in for FREE. We were planning to go on another day during our recent stay in Milan, but I saw this and we rearranged our agenda to take advantage of free admission, which meant more $$ with which to shop. Thom went on an Italian shopping spree, so we needed to save where we could in order to afford more man jewelry, scarves, vests, collarless shirts and the list goes on. But back to the castle. which is enormous and houses an amazing museum filled with art, sculptures, tapestries, medieval weapons-something for everyone. There were even unfinished Michelangelo sculptures that we somehow missed in our wanderings. This place is HUGE!

    We started our adventure by walking throughout the outside areas and imagining how life would have been living and working at the castle back in the 15th century. There has been lots of renovations over the years and as is always ongoing at a site this old. After strolling around outdoors, we dived into the museum. In the summer, go when it is cool in the mornings because these old structures don’t have central air or any air really and it gets hot fast. With so much to see inside, plan ahead to arrive early so you can spend at least a few hours in the museum soaking it all in. I would recommend getting the audio guide. There are English signs on most of the exhibits but taking a tour or listening to an audio guide is in order for such a vast assortment of exhibits.

    Interestingly, we observed from the convenient onsite cafe that there were just as many locals taking advantage of the free admission as there were obvious tourists. When in Milan, enjoy the journey!

    HISTORY:

    We didn’t take a guided tour of the castle but there is so much history that I would recommend taking one if you have time. Short recap according to Castello Sforzesco – Wikipedia:

    The Castello Sforzesco (Italian for “Sforza’s Castle”) is a medieval fortification located in Milan, Northern Italy. It was built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan, on the remnants of a 14th-century fortification. Later renovated and enlarged, in the 16th and 17th centuries it was one of the largest citadels in Europe. Extensively rebuilt by Luca Beltrami in 1891–1905, it now houses several of the city’s museums and art collections.

    VISIT INFO:

    Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco): Welcome to Castello Sforzesco Official Site | Castello Sforzesco Official Website (milanocastello.it) The castle is centrally located in Milan so you can wander after your visit and find cafes and shopping nearby. There are also trams that go right by the fountain in front of the castle if you want to hop on and tour around Milan.

    • Free entrance to courtyards 7 – 19.30.
    • Free admission to entire complex including museum every first and third Tuesday from 2 p.m. and every first Sunday of the month.
    • Castello Sforzesco Museums: Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5.30 p.m. (last ticket at 4.30 p.m.; last admission to each individual Museum/section at 5 p.m.)
    • The Museums are closed on Mondays and these holidays: 25 December, 1 January, 1 May
    • You can book online or buy your ticket at the Castle Museum Ticket Office. Ticket office hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4.30 pm. The purchase must also be made for free holders (including children under 18 years of age).
    • Full ticket € 5.00; reduced ticket € 3.00 (18-25 years and over 65).
    • Audio guide € 5.00, on sale at the Bookshop.
    • Every weekend at 11 a.m. guided tours of the Museums without reservation: on Saturdays in English, on Sundays in Italian. Single rate €17 (including ticket to the Museums), meeting at 10.45 a.m. at the Info point.

    Riding the Cloud to London Royal Observatory

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Europe, London, Travel, travel tips, UKLeave a comment

    On our last trip to London, I discovered yet another hidden gem! Did you know there is a cable car that sails high over the River Thames taking you to/from places you probably haven’t explored yet? Who knew??? I’ve been lucky enough to visit London many times for both business and pleasure. In June on our way back from a few weeks in Italy, we dropped by to see the Mets play the Phillies at London Stadium, so we stayed on a new side of the town in an area called Canary Wharf on the River Thames. We took the Cloud Cable Car over the Thames and explored the Royal Observatory. We even saw a fox hiding in the woods on our adventure. A complete London experience!

    On the far east side of London, Canary Wharf is a busy area near the Isle of Dogs in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets. In addition to being a leading global financial district in the United Kingdom, Canary Wharf is famous for a cluster of the tallest modern commercial complexes and residential high-rise buildings. Built in the early 1990s, the district is home to the first tallest iconic skyscraper in the UK, One Canada Square. We stayed at the London Marriott Hotel Canary Wharf, which was ideally located and had a nice member’s lounge that we took great advantage of for drinks and snacks. Outside the hotel, the river was just steps away as well as lots of restaurants, shops and conveniently located near the Tube, DLR light rail and the Overground.

    But back to the amazing cable car ride we took. For only 6 euros per person one way, you go up and over the river while enjoying a great view! We took an Uber to the cable car from our Canary Wharf hotel-short trip but a little too far to walk. Our Uber driver told us that locals use the cable car more than tourists. Getting off the cable car, we walked to the Greenwich bus station 5 minutes away. We picked up the 198 bus and off to the Greenwich Observatory we went. It’s all “tap to pay” for cable car and buses-no advance tickets needed. Climb the bus stairs and get the front seats on top of double decker for a good view.

    Cable car details: IFS Cloud Cable Car – Transport for London (tfl.gov.uk)

    The Royal Observatory, Greenwich

    Situated on a hill in Greenwich Park in southeast London overlooking the River Thames, visiting this historic site is an all-day excursion. Pick a beautiful day and, after your awesome cable car ride, discover how this observatory played a major role in history of astronomy and navigation. Straddle the Prime Meridian and wander through the museum before walking to the river to check out the clipper ship Cutty Sark. Enjoy the park and surrounding forest areas-you might even see a fox hiding among the foliage.

    Observatory details: https://www.rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory and https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Observatory,_Greenwich

    Greenwich walking tunnel

    Since we took the cable cars over the River Thames to get to Greenwich, we decided to go under the river to get back to the hotel. So, we walked from the top of the hill where the Greenwich Observatory is, through the village of Greenwich and on to the river, where we saw the Cutty Sark and right beside it is the entrance to the Greenwich Walking Tunnel. While there is an elevator, don’t count on it because it gets heavy use, and it was actually not working when we got to the other side. So, that means you have to be able to go down (and then up) LOTS of steps to get under the river.

    While bikers are supposed to walk their bikes through the tunnel, they probably don’t based on what we saw, so be aware and avoid bikers speeding along the path. We walked through mid-day, and it was not very busy. I’m not sure I would recommend walking this route at night, as there are no security personnel on site, though there are security cameras along the way. Not to scare you off this route because it is unique and a must do if you are in the area. Enjoy the journey!

    Greenwich walking tunnel details: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenwich_foot_tunnel

    A Month in London-My Observations

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Europe, London, Travel, travel tips, travelling, UK, Uncategorized2 Comments

    One of the many reasons I love to travel is to experience firsthand how other countries are different than the US. I believe travel expands your horizons, stimulates thinking about how other people live, and makes you appreciate your own life back home. Before I lived for several years in China on a work assignment, I had never appreciated the US’s clean air, water and soil. All those pesky US regulations ensure we are safe from pollution and I’m all for them. When I used to bring Chinese citizens to the US for work trips, they would stare at the blue skies and ask me if air quality was always like that-clean and breathable. On a good day in Shanghai, the air quality index (AQI) was 125 or so and on a bad day, the AQI could skyrocket to 400+ where you could even taste the pollution indoors. An average AQI in Boise, Idaho where I live is 50 or under except for right now during fire season when we are in the 150-200 AQI range. Everywhere we go in the world, I find reasons to both appreciate my home and fall in love with new places. If I’m not on a journey, then I’m planning the next one. So many places to see, so little time. Next up is a girl’s trip to the Netherlands in September!

    Because we completed a one month+ pet sit in London in January/February of this year, I was able to compare the day-to-day normal life of working and being at home in the UK with our experience back in Boise. Here are some of my observations:

    LIKE:

    • History everywhere you look, even on the neighborhood walk with the dog. So much prettier than our 1950s bland architecture in my neighborhood back home.
    • Gas hobs aka stoves cook so fast you really can’t turn away from the stove while cooking but dinner gets done quickly. I now know why people on those home buying shows always want a gas stove not electric. When you travel, you learn how to cook differently or starve.
    • Heated towel racks are common in bathrooms, working to soften up the towels-more on those below. Warm towels after a bath are pure bliss.
    • Local foods that we embraced in the UK included daily tea, hot cross buns available fresh at the grocery, fish and chips, curry, and loads of international restaurants. When in Rome!
    • So. Many. Newspapers. Journalism must still be a viable career in Europe. I love especially the really large Saturday editions. Back home in the US, most newspapers have either closed down or are on their way to being solely digital. When I asked for a NYT Sunday paper in Seattle on a trip last year, they looked at me like I was a criminal, and I was told forcefully to read it online, as having a paper edition was wasteful and bad for the environment. They haven’t gotten that message here in the UK and I loved it.

    DISLIKE:

    • Cars and buses coming at you from left, right and you better be alert. With help from the pavement signs, I learned quickly to look left, look right, and be nimble because traffic is coming at you from all directions you don’t expect coming from the US. And don’t forget MIND THE GAP when you are entering/existing the Tube. Typically, there is not a huge gap between the platform and the train, until there is, and you fall onto the tracks (not that this happens frequently-you’re probably more likely to be pushed onto the tracks, so never stand too close when you are waiting for the next train). Don’t mean to scare you off public transportation. Just be aware.
    • Typically, hard water = towels so hard you definitely do not need a loofah to get rid of your dry skin. Putting the towels on the heated rack (love this feature in European bathrooms!) does soften them a little bit and are toasty when you get out of the shower. Ironing them might help too but I don’t iron so that is just a theory.
    • No washcloths provided anywhere in Europe-bring them or buy when you get here.
    • Dryers-as fast the gas hobs cook, the dryers don’t dry quickly. Also, we found out after waiting a few hours for clothes to dry that our dryer in London required emptying a water extraction tube after every cycle. Who knew? This is how the moisture is collected vs. a venting system that we are used to in the States. The appliances you are used to in the US are different in Europe. Use a translation app if the equipment controls are in a language you don’t know.
    • You will find stairs in almost any European house or apartment building because, due to urban density, they build up not out. Great exercise for those legs! Be mindful of your feet and hold onto the banister. Thom and I both slipped a few times as we got used to being alert and not carrying too much when navigating the steep curving stairs.

    WTH?:

    • Foxes are everywhere in London neighborhoods-they are supposed to be nocturnal, but we saw them daily just rambling down the block in broad daylight like they owned the place. Foxes like garbage similar to racoons and make loud barking/screaming noises at night like the coyotes back home. Once we got used to them, it was not scary or a big deal. We saw one run across the busy road down the block from our house and dodge the double decker bus like a pro.
    • Dogs are everywhere in London-on the Tube, in the shops and welcome in some restaurants with their own “Dog Menu”. Now, you would think there might be some food and health laws restricting animals in cafes but apparently not. They are welcome and usually well behaved.
    • Off leash dogs run amok in the parks, rolling in the mud (always raining here) yet wearing the cutest outfits.
    • Lovely fireplaces are often found in every room of the old houses, but most don’t work-too hard to convert to gas? Perhaps too dangerous to have wood burning for sure in these old homes-don’t blame them there.
    • Old houses are lovely but don’t have heat in all the rooms?? Dress warm-layer up. At restaurants, you will also have this type of experience in their bathrooms. Brrrrr…..I used an electric heated throw to stay warm in the living room while enjoying British television shows.
    • Many roads have “blinds” where it will suddenly go to one lane where drivers have to be bold and own the lane or take turns-it’s very organic and scary. One blind right outside the Spaniard Inn window where we were dining made us both gasp and chuckle to watch the cars and double decker buses dodging and frequently backing up to accommodate the heavy flow of traffic. Insanity!

    CREATURE COMFORTS WE MISSED WHILE WE WERE AWAY: (obviously other than family and our dog)

    • Sleep number bed with adjustable positions and warming feet features-the ultimate in sleep experience vs. the average full-size bed.
    • TOTO -if you’ve ever experienced it, you know what I’m talking about. Google it. Bidets don’t even come close.
    • Gas fireplace that we use constantly back home and is so cozy on a cold winter day.
    • Computer lap tray so I can escape to the couch to work sometimes.
    • Comfy office-I’m spoiled by my ergonomic office chair and electric standing desk back home.
    • Gym equipment in our basement for those cold and/or rainy days to get some exercise. Yes, it does rain frequently in London, so we now understand why everyone has those rubber boots aka wellies and rain gear because you have to go out in the rain, or you’d never be able to leave the house. The plus side is that you don’t need a humidifier because you are living in a rain forest with lovely natural humidity.
    • Television sports-you have to get a subscription to watch them most places or go to the local pub. While we do have Chromecast for streaming apps when we travel, we were unable to pick up any US sports because of geofencing so we missed our American NFL football and college basketball that we would normally be watching back home. First world problems, I know.
    • Embrace the changes when you travel and enjoy the journey!

    Santa Maria Novella-Florence

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Europe, Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips, travelling1 Comment

    While it might not make your agenda if you only have a few days in Florence, if you are lucky enough to have a week or two, then Santa Maria Novella is worth your time to check out. You can visit the church in its entirety, including the frescoed chapels, the sacristy and Avelli cemetery. Highlights include the Cloister of the Dead, the Green Cloister, the Spanish Chapel, the Ubriachi Chapel and the Refectory. Admire the Masaccio Trinity, Giotto’s crucifix, Brunelleschi’s crucifix, Cappella Tornabuoni (painted by Ghirlandaio), and frescoes by Filippino Lippi, Nardo di Cione, Piero da Miniato and Botticelli. There is gorgeous art everywhere you look!

    Completed around 1420, like many other Florence historic institutions, Santa Maria Novella suffered extreme damage in the 1966 floods. While most of the interior was restored, there are outdoor frescoes in the burial cloisters that still show the damage. While no one seriously famous is buried here, there are burial monuments everywhere for wealthy and important Florentines of the past. 

    In the museum, one art piece, The Last Supper, really stood out to me for it’s vibrant colors and the artist’s story. I saw the famous fresco by Leonardo da Vinci in Milan and this version is totally different. As you go through all the cathedrals and museums in Florence, it’s no secret that the Italian Renaissance was THE influential period in art history, but it was totally dominated by male artists like da Vinci, Michaelangelo and Raphael. Any woman??  Any??? Well, Sister Plautilla Nelli (1524-1588) a Dominican nun not only painted her version of famous religious scenes like The Last Supper in the convent, but she founded an all-woman art workshop within her convent and taught other nuns how to paint. They generated income and took on art commission work by wealthy private citizens in Florence. In the 1500s!

    VISIT

     It’s only 7.5 euros to wander through and soak in the basilica, the cloisters, the museum-really, it just kept going on and on. Plan a few hours to enjoy it all-they offer free guided tours by locals and audio guides too. Make sure to check the online site How can I visit Santa Maria Novella? | Santa Maria Novella (smn.it) for current visiting hours.

    Florence’s Jewish Synagogue and Museum

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips, travelling, Uncategorized1 Comment

    We are always on the lookout for hidden gems that are off the beaten path when we travel. In Florence, we took the time to tour the Synagogue and Jewish Museum, which may not be on all tourists’ agendas, but we really enjoyed our visit there. Be sure to save time to eat at one of the nearby kosher restaurants too!

    Opened in 1882, this beautiful Synagogue is the heart of Florence’s Jewish community. Surrounded by a lush garden, the synagogue’s architectural details not to be missed include exotic style with Moorish, Romanesque and Byzantine elements combined. We got the audio tour and learned all about the history behind the building. The museum is a superb collection of historical items of Jewish art. Allow about two hours at least to take it all in.

    The impressive exterior with white travertine and pink limestone, together with the central dome and the copper-clad side towers, is an iconic Florence landmark that is the heart and soul of the city’s Jewish life. Whatever religion you follow or none at all, it is always interesting to experience all sides of the cities you visit. Enjoy the journey!

    VISIT

    Check online before you go as the opening days/time change with the seasons: Synagogue and Jewish Museum in Florence | Jewish Florence. We were given a locker to secure our bags before we entered and were allowed to bring in our phones so we could take pictures (no flash). They ask for men to wear the headcover provided. To be respectful, please adhere.

    Fried artichoke
    Cheses zucchini fritters and salad

    We have eaten at Ba Ghetta in Rome known for their delicacy, the fried artichoke. Sadly, they weren’t open yet when we were there (restaurants usually close between lunch and dinner that starts around 8 pm). Luckily, Ruth’s cafe across the street was open and served us a tasty fried artichoke and cheese zucchini fritters. Neither of these fantastic foods are available back home in Idaho. Enjoy the journey!

    Fiesole-Day Trip from Florence

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

    A visit to the mystical village of Fiesole, just three miles up the hill overlooking the Arno valley, is the perfect day trip from Florence. To get a feel for Roman times in Tuscany, wait for good weather and, after a 20-minute bus ride, you can take in the breathtaking views and wander around an amazingly well-preserved Etruscan-Roman archaeological area dating back to the beginning of the 11th millennium B.C. Once a fierce rival of Florence, this beautiful location became valued by Florentines who wanted an estate with a view. Who wouldn’t want to live on top of a lush hill with superb views? Count me in!

    A blend of Etruscan presence and Roman occupation, there is an outstanding Roman amphitheater that is still used for theatrical and musical performances. Walk the grounds behind the amphitheater to explore Roman baths and Etruscan walls and temples discovered in the 1800s and take in the sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside, which is why the Romans must have wanted this prime hilltop location. From Fiesole, you could see any enemies approaching AND keep dry from the Arno River flooding, which it does on occasion with devastating consequences.

    The city’s Civic Archaeology Museum is located within the site. For just $10 euros, you can visit both the site and museum. What is absolutely crazy is the lack of tourists taking advantage of this experience. Within the museum, you’ll find the Antiquarian Costantini, a special collection of over 150 pieces of ceramics from ancient Greece and Etruria. Seriously, there were maybe 2-5 people in the whole museum when we were there. The replicas are from the Romans, Etruscans and Lombards, who all occupied this key hill in Tuscany at various times. So many levels of history here to enjoy. Also, within the archaeological grounds is Caffe Teatro, which has food and snacks with full bar to take a respite with a view. And there are bathrooms!

    If you have time, walk uphill from the architecture site and village square to visit the monastic complex. The whole complex is a sacred space…with a million-dollar view! The interior of the church is worth a visit with beautiful artwork to admire. Fun fact-Leonardo da Vinci first experimented with the concept of flight from this very hilltop town. There is also the Museo Bandini across the street from the archaeological area. Entry to the museum can be included as a combo ticket with the Archaeological area and museum. This is the home of paintings from the 12th-14th centuries. So much to see in this little village!

    We visited Fiesole in late May, and they were just setting up the amphitheater for the Estate Fiesolana summer event. Next visit to Florence (and there will certainly be at least one!) we may have to time it differently so we can take in this unique experience. We will have to bring seat cushions though for those stone slab seats-ouch.

    Getting There:

    Hop on the #7 bus by the Santa Maria Novella train station. Get off when you arrive at Fiesole’s main square, Piazza Mino. Go directly across the street, past the Cathedral of St. Romulus (You must cover your bare shoulders/knees as usual in sacred spaces.) Visit the cathedral if it’s open-it wasn’t when we visited) and you will see the entrance to the archaeological site. Enjoy the journey!