National Gallery Museum-London

The National Gallery Museum in London is celebrating its 200th birthday this year, which is yet another great reason to visit London soon (as if you needed a reason). Though I’ve been to London a few times, I’ve never had the time to enjoy this museum, so this trip we made it a priority! Located in Trafalgar Square, I recommend you spend some time walking around the square and soak up the atmosphere outside before entering this magnificent museum. The fountains, the lions, and statues are all great back drops for picture-taking. Climb the museum steps and be ready to walk amongst the vast amounts of art from Monet, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Rubens, Raphael, and so many more. Seriously, there is a whole gallery for just Rembrandts, one of the biggest collections of his art that I’ve seen, and I get around! Of course, Monet is my happy place and they had enough of his art to make me happy including one very large piece. Having been to his home and lily ponds in Giverny several times, I just connect with his calming pieces. We only had a few hours to enjoy the art but look forward to going back next time we are in London!

Having just been to the British Museum where there were no seats to sit and appreciate the exhibits, I was happy to see a variety of benches and even leather chairs spread out through the galleries so you could spend time just sitting and appreciating the art on the walls. The art was all hung from chains off poles near the ceiling, making it probably easier to move pieces and not hurting the walls. Make sure to look up and appreciate the beautiful ceilings and skylights throughout the museum.

We did see lots of tour groups with their guides giving lectures at the various major pieces of art. Because you can’t possibly see all the art on one visit, next time we plan to perhaps take a tour with someone who can bring the art to life with stories. We did try the app Smartify | A World of Art and Culture, Just for You – Smartify and were very impressed. You just scan the art, and it immediately pops us a few paragraphs about the artist and that particular piece. A great collaboration between art and technology. Give it a try next time you visit a museum!

CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT

After you walk miles around the museum, take a rest across the street in the stunning crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields cafe. The original brick-vaulted ceilings and historic tombstones lining the floor provide atmosphere and the food is tasty and well-priced. Check on their website for special events that turn the crypt into a music and cabaret venue.

ENTRY TO MUSEUM

While the museum is free (like most British museums!), we went online the day before at The National Gallery, London to get timed entry tickets, which allowed us even quicker access into the museum. If you don’t have timed tickets, go to the entry on the left of the columns and you’ll probably have to wait in line for a little while. If you have tickets, you can go in the entry to the right without the line. Either way, there is a security check as you get inside.

Unlike the British Museum where maps are free, you have to shell out $2GBP at the National Gallery to get a map but we did because it is useful to find your way around. It’s so big you could get lost! With two floors of galleries, they are grouped into three clusters: 17th, 18th century and Impressionist paintings and Renaissance, Dutch and Flemish paintings and finally medieval paintings. There were several temporary exhibitions that were all free.

GETTING THERE

Definitely a tourist magnet and meeting place, events can be happening at Trafalgar Square that can really be crowded, so check online sites like this one https://www.visitlondon.com/things-to-do/place/283774-trafalgar-square before you go. Be aware that protests also commonly march here to gather and make a statement, especially on the weekends. Proceed cautiously around these large crowds to enter the museum.

The National Gallery is located just steps from the Charing Cross tube station making for an easy commute from wherever you are staying in London. Enjoy the journey!

Churchill War Rooms-London

Although I would not consider myself a war buff, in advance of our London trip, I read Erik Larson’s book, “The Splendid and the Vile”. It was a fascinating read to prepare me to visit Churchill War Rooms. This nonfiction book by Erik Larson is based on diaries, first person accounts, military records, etc. that chronicle how Winston Churchill led Britain through WWII to ultimate victory. Visiting this unique “frozen in time” museum is a great addition to any visit to London.

Housing the incredibly well-preserved underground bunker, which served as the control center where the British government ran their war efforts in WWII, you will learn what it was like to live and work beneath the streets of London for months while bombs shook the walls. They won the war, walked away from the war rooms and left everything “as is” to this day. So not only will you learn all about the character and actions of Churchill himself but what it was like for those that worked for him and worked, ate, and slept in the bunker.

Upon entering the underground space at Churchill War Rooms at your designated ticket time (purchase online prior to arriving), the entry fee will get you the audio tour, that will allow you to punch in the #’s on exhibits throughout the space to learn more. In addition to the audio tour, there are stations throughout the museum with videos to watch. I would recommend at least two hours to take it all in for a complete experience.

It is truly fascinating to see how a war was run prior to the internet and technology. No drones, no computers, no cell phones. Just a few rotary phones including the “hot” line from Churchill to President Roosevelt asking for US assistance, which was vital to defeating Hitler’s forces. The map room illustrates the low-tech way that the British tracked their forces on land and sea with pushpins on wall maps. You also get to see Churchill’s pink velour onesie (see pic below) that he liked to wear-what a fashionista he was! His collection of hats is also part of the museum.

VISIT INFO

While most government-run museums like the British Museum are free in London, this museum is 32 euros (under 5 free) and I felt it was worth the expense. Check out the awesome gift shop on your way out. Of course, they sell liquor as all museums do in the UK plus lots of tea and tea-themed merch. “Where there is tea, there is hope.” It was the tea apparently that got them through the war, probably heavily laced with liquor. For the kids or yourself, the Churchill duckie with a cigar is a unique souvenir. We collect rubber ducks for the grandkids and, trust me, this is a great addition to the collection! We already have a Queen Elizabeth duck from our last trip so they can play together.

Situated next to the lovely St. James Park and close to other key attractions like Parliament and Big Ben, plan a whole day in this area of London. Enjoy the journey!

British Museum-London

A visit to the British Museum feels like a trip around the world both visually and physically because you will walk until you drop and still not see it all. Opened to the public in 1759, the museum’s 8+million pieces in their permanent collection focus on human history, art and culture. Even though I’ve been fortunate to take several trips to London over the last few years, I had never gotten around to going there. So, on our recent trip to London, we made it a priority and, even though you could spend days there and still not see everything on display, we spent a few hours soaking up all the history we could in an afternoon and plan to go back again soon. The British Museum is definitely a “must see” for your trip to London. Enjoy the journey!

Over the ages, there has always been controversy over all the relics taken from various countries all over the world by the British and housed in this museum. “Welcome to the British Museum-a museum of the world, for the world.” is the museum slogan and very appropriate. After seeing a fraction of the collections, you have to wonder if they left anything at all in Egypt, Greece, etc. for the citizens to enjoy but who am I to judge? I suggest you suspend the politics to enjoy seeing and learning from the exhibits that are here in London…for now.

The museum is broken down into geographic areas: Africa, Americas, Ancient Egypt, Ancient Greece and Rome, Asia, Europe and Middle East. Along the way, you may encounter museum staff engaging with patrons at a hands-on learning table. They let kids and even Thom handle the centuries old items! Must-see objects include:

  1. Rosetta Stone
  2. Parthenon Marble Sculptures
  3. Lewis Chessmen (most famous chess set in the world)
  4. Egyptian mummies-elaborate sarcophagus and skeletons
  5. Hoa Hakananai’a Easter Island Statue (watch Night at the Museum-Dumb, Dumb give me gum, gum!)

Planning your trip: Visit | British Museum

Plan on spending some time in line going through security screening. It was fairly chaotic when we walked up with a line designated for those with tickets, but the security guards were directing people into that line even if you didn’t have tickets. We are used to navigating crowds, so we just walked into line and kept going as there were openings. So, after about 10 minutes, we were through and walking into the main rotunda atrium. Grab a museum map so you don’t get lost and off you go! There is no entrance fee, but you can donate if you want. Photography is permitted.

There are free “highlights” and “eye-opener” tours led by museum staff-all are listed in the brochure for certain galleries. You can also download a free Rick Steves walking tour from his site or go to Audio app | British Museum and download their walking tour via the Apple App Store app or Google Play Store app. Lots of ways to learn and enjoy the many exhibits!

Families can take advantage of free family activities on the weekends. Just head to the Families Desk and get a special brochure listing all the events. Families can also borrow a backpack full of activities at the museum making for a very kid-friendly environment.

Eating at the Museum

I like a museum that has options to grab a snack, but they go all out in the refreshment category at the British Museum. From top to bottom, there are cafes in many places with everything from coffee to sandwiches/pizza to the Great Court Restaurant at the top where you can get afternoon tea, mains and a full bar. We were hungry by the time we made it to the top floor. We were able to walk right into the lovely restaurant and get a seat (or you can make reservations) and enjoy a cheese plate and tea. It was a lovely break to rest and hydrate before seeing some more great history. Note: they don’t allow food or drink outside the designated cafes in the museum.

Paris Museums and Street Art

There are so many wonderful museums in Paris that it can be overwhelming when you start to plan your trip. How can I see them all? (Hint: you probably can’t!) Which one to go to first? How do I prioritize? Which is best? So much art, so little time. Even after going to Paris several times, I haven’t seen them all, but I’ll try to help guide you on how to choose the best experience for you.

ICONIC “MUST SEE” MUSEUMS

  • Louvre Museum https://www.louvre.fr/en go at opening time, enter through Port de Lions entrance and go directly to the Mona Lisa-you can see from the picture below that we got a clear shot of her when we visited. You could spend a week at the Louvre and not see everything. Based on how much time you have there, prioritize what you want to see and go for it! You can book a guided tour or wander aimlessly like we like to do.

SMALLER, “SEE IT ALL IN ONE DAY” MUSEUMS

  • Musee Picasso https://www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/ is located in the heart of the Marais, one of my favorite neighborhoods. This museum is an art-filled oasis in a beautiful mansion with a courtyard cafe. Heaven! What I really appreciated was the pictures and stories about the artist himself. I’ve always enjoyed his art, but I never knew much about the man behind the art. I also love goats and there was quite the collection his goat art on display! More info:
    • The museum collection includes more than 5,000 works of art (paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, prints, engravings and notebooks) and tens of thousands of archived pieces from Picasso’s personal repository, including the artist’s photographic archive, personal papers, correspondence, and author manuscripts. A large portion of items were donated by Picasso’s family after his death, in accord with the wishes of the artist, who lived in France from 1905 to 1973. (Wikipedia)
  • Musee Rodin has both outdoor gardens with sculptures and an inside art museum https://www.musee-rodin.fr/en Definitely plan a visit here on a sunny day so you can walk the gardens and enjoy the fabulous sculptures in their natural setting. More info:
    • While living in the Villa des Brillants, Auguste Rodin used the Hôtel Biron as his workshop from 1908, and subsequently donated his entire collection of sculptures – along with paintings by Vincent van GoghClaude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir that he had acquired – to the French State on the condition that they turn the buildings into a museum dedicated to his works. The Musée Rodin contains most of Rodin’s significant creations, including The ThinkerThe Kiss and The Gates of Hell. Many of his sculptures are displayed in the museum’s extensive garden. The museum includes a room dedicated to the works of Camille Claudel and one of the two castings of The Mature Age.The gardens around the museum building contain many of the famous sculptures in natural settings. Behind the museum building are a small lake and casual restaurant. Additionally, the nearby Métro stop, Varenne, features some of Rodin’s sculptures on the platform. The building is served by Métro (Line 13), RER (Line C: Invalides) and bus (69, 82, 87, 92). (Wikipedia)

Musee Marmottan Monet showcases all Monet all the time https://www.marmottan.fr/en/ and is the perfect museum for the Monet superfan, which I am. We went to his home in Giverny on another Paris trip-see separate blog post on that adventure! This museum flies under the tourist radar. The day we visited we were one of the few visitors, allowing us to sit (yes-there are benches!) and just soak in the panorama of Monet art. My husband took the panorama shot below of the empty gallery when we got there-Monet all to ourselves.

OTHER MUSEUMS THAT I HAVEN’T VISITED-YET ANOTHER REASON I NEED TO GO BACK TO PARIS SOON!

STREET ART

We love to wander the streets of Paris and look for street art, whether it’s a mural or artistically hung umbrellas. Make sure you allow enough time to see this type of art. Enjoy the journey!

See the Andrew Wyeth Exhibit at SAM!

Experiencing the Andrew Wyeth in Retrospect exhibit at the Seattle Art Museum is a day well spent, especially on a rainy Seattle Sunday.  Room after room filled with amazing art.  Damn.  I’m in such awe of this artistic talent.

When my antique phone couldn’t download the app for the SAM audio tour, I forked over $4 to rent the old school technology wand to listen to the audio tour.  How embarrassing!

Quite the scoundrel, Wyeth painted up until his death at age 91, sneaking away starting at age 53 to secretly paint a neighbor’s caregiver, Helga, in the nude during a 15 year period without telling his wife.  Oops.  Of course, this was after he had started doing other nudes in a dramatic pivot to erotic art and his wife, Betsy, had told him, “If you do this again, don’t tell me.”  So, he didn’t share and painted nude Helga privately while also cranking out landscapes that he DID show his wife.  Hmmm….

 

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Wyeth’s muse, Helga

 

I appreciate the audio tour interpretation of the paintings because I gaze upon them and think simplistically, “pretty picture” when I should be seeing all kinds of imagery and subtexts telling me about the meaning of life.  Nope.  Not unless I’m told by the kindly intelligent audio guide do I see the “death as a subtext” message and “sex as a rebirth” theme.  I’m an idiot but I do enjoy viewing art as did the huge crowd packing the museum today.

One masterpiece did speak to me, after the audio guide explained that “Snow Hill” was a memorial piece created in 1989 and dedicated to his models, both living and dead, symbolizing renewal and reevaluation of life’s purpose.  The models dancing around the May Pole was quite evocative.  Well done, Wyeth.

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Snow Hill symbolizing renewal

Wyeth painted in tempura and watercolor and pencil sketches.  The attention to detail was incredible especially the blades of grass in the landscapes.  His dad was a famous illustrator who taught him starting at 15 years old.  Wyeth sold out his first NYC show at the ripe old age of 22 and continued to paint until he died in 2018.  He is known for his realism.

 

“I search for the realness, the real feeling of a subject, all the texture around it…I always want to see the third dimension of something…I want to come alive with the object.”              -Andrew Wyeth

The exhibit will be at the SAM until January 15, 2018.  In addition to the paintings and sketches, the SAM has done a nice job incorporating videos about Wyeth’s life and an interactive area with touch screen devices where you can create your own art.  I highly recommend it.  Enjoy!

Turning my back on politics for a day!

When the craziness of the political landscape is driving me to drink and getting me down (and how could it not?), then I turn to art and music to lift my spirits.  Okay, whiskey and wine work too but art and music are better for my soul AND my health. So, off to the museum we went for a day away from the madness of politics.

After waking up just in time to witness a tweet storm of epic proportions in real time on Saturday morning when “he who must not be named” thought it would be a good idea to take on esteemed Congressman John Lewis, I felt a need to disconnect from the nightmare that is about to begin.  So, taking advantage of a sunny, not-so-freezing day in Seattle, we set out to experience the Seattle Asian Art Museum.

Set in a gorgeous location in Volunteer Park near Capital Hill, we were blown away by the stunning collection in the 1933 Art Deco building.  Originally the site of the SAM, it now houses classic Asian art pieces and special exhibits like the contemporary Japanese artist Tabaimo Homage with thought-provoking video installations.  One made me think WTF but the piece set in a women’s bathroom was interesting and the crows were subtly freakish.  Art!

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The more classic art pieces featured such intricate details that you could look at just one piece all day to appreciate the artistry to make it.  Carvings, pottery, tapestries, etc. from ancient times to contemporary pieces are just for viewing but the cement replicas of Ming Dynasty camel statues that grace the entrance are meant to be climbed on by the kids and serve as a backdrop for fun photo ops.  We didn’t take the tours offered but there were two  on Sunday at 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. which would probably be very informative.

While you are there, cross the street and check out the water tower observation deck.  Challenged by Thom, I chugged up the 107 stairs to enjoy the 360 degree view of Seattle.  Gorgeous!

We are SAM members but if you aren’t, the museum is open free on the first Thursday and Saturday of each month.  Tear yourself away from social media, turn your back on politics at least for a day and take advantage of the museum and the park-both gems in Seattle!

YSL Perfection at SAM

It was a dark and stormy afternoon with sheets of torrential rain coming down. In other words, a typical Seattle day-perfect for a stroll through the fantastic fashion exhibit at the Seattle Art Museum featuring Yves Saint Laurent in all his glory.  YSL truly experienced an amazing journey from teen fashion prodigy to world famous designer and this exhibit running through 1/8/17 invites you into his world of fashion through a behind-the-scenes look at the designer’s life.

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The exhibit is so much more than the 100+ gorgeous outfits that YSL created.  You can see his early sketches and paper dolls that he created as a teen fashion prodigy, the swatches and drawings that he used to create his collection, personal photos and much more.

YSL was born to create unique and original works of art that spanned a long and turbulent career.  Like most artists, YSL fought childhood bullying first and then, later in adulthood, depression and addictions while somehow creating masterpieces that you can now view at the Seattle Art Museum.  I loved seeing not only the final product but the genius behind the creations.

 

Hidden Gem-Chester Beatty Library in Dublin

Having decided to skip the long line to see the Book of Kells at Trinity College, instead we opted to enjoy a much less known gem in Dublin, the Chester Beatty library.  Next to Dublin Castle, this library/museum houses an extraordinary, vast collection of ancient manuscripts and texts.  Taking advantage of a video loop showing the history of Chester Beatty, we learned that the wealthy American mining magnate, who bequeathed his collection to Ireland when he died in 1968, left them treasures that you can see for free with no waiting in line. 

We wandered and gawked at all types of artifacts that date back to 2700 BC to present day from various religions:  Judaism, Christianity, Islam Buddhism and Hinduism.  There are beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and Renaissance manuscripts and more.  The Christianity room featured third century Greek letters.  Really rare stuff on display to enjoy.  There is also a gallery devoted to the Art of the Book with books from all over the ancient world showing fancy leather bound engraved editions to simple volumes.  I have many fond memories as a child visiting the Noblesville Public Library in the old downtown brick building every Saturday to load up on books I could devour.  Now, I am blessed to experience this magnificent collection after also going to the NYC Library and the Morgan Library and viewing their Guttenberg bibles.  This all in one week of vacation.  This has been a dream come true for me. 

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Knighted for his contribution of strategic raw materials to the Allies during World War II, Sir Chester Beatty was a traveler and experienced adventurer, travelling the world to collect rare items.  So glad he decided to donate them so we can enjoy them today.  There is even a roof top serenity garden where you can enjoy the view of nearby Dublin castle or just sit on a bench and reflect on all the ancient texts you have just viewed.  Truly one of the best museum experiences I have had around the world.

Wandering St. Pat’s Cathedral in Dublin

We walked by a Catholic Church almost immediately as we turned down a lane off Grafton Street exploring Dublin on our first day.  We have since visited so many churches across Ireland that I can’t keep them straight but they are all historic and beautiful.  With the history of Ireland so closely tied to the Catholic and Protestant churches, it is no wonder they dominate the landscape.  Well, not as much as the pubs dominate but still, there are a LOT of churches here. 

The church we spent the most time in was St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin.  It is really a museum now mostly with some services but beautifully preserved with groupings of historically significant relics to read about and enjoy.  We found a video loop playing the in back corner and sat through a nice overview of the history before we explored, giving good context to what we were going to see which dates mostly back to the 14th century but a religious building stood on this site a thousand years before that. It is the largest church in Ireland and also houses the largest ringing peal bells in Ireland as well, whatever those are.  Bet they are loud.

One story we learned from the video was that during a feud in 1492 there came a point where the warring families were deadlocked so the two leaders agreed, as a gesture of good faith, to extend their hands through a slot in a massive door to shake and call a truce.  This “Door of Reconciliation” now hangs in the church and thus the Irish expression, “to chance your arm” meaning to take the initiative.  Here’s betting that if Hillary extended her arm through a door, Trump would cut it off and call her a loser for wanting to negotiate. 

Along with the velvet covered pew benches that are preserved and roped off in the sanctuary, there are stand-alone chairs for people to sit in and worship with embroidered kneeling cushions that some little old ladies probably created for use by worshippers. Charming AND useful.

Though you do have to pay 6 euros to enjoy St. Patrick’s, it was money well spent given not only the beauty but the historical experience of it all.  Amen.

 

Two Gutenbergs in One Day

The theme for Friday’s Manhattan adventure was a deep dive into literature so it was only fitting that we got to see two Gutenberg Bibles in one day-first at the NYC Public Library and then in the evening at the Morgan Library.  Just blocks apart, these masterpieces are two of only 49 left of their kind, the first major book printed around 1450 using mass-produced movable type.  A beautiful and historic book to behold and the Morgan Library has 3 copies that they rotate to preserve.  wp_20160916_20_03_13_richThey’ve done a good job because it is in great repair for being so old and enduring many adventures among owners in the past before being acquired in 1815 for the Morgan Library.moran-2

Taking advantage of the free Friday deal to visit the Morgan, we sought out Rembrandt’s first masterpiece, Judas Returning the Thirty Pieces of Silver, which is considered to be his first mature work.  Perhaps we are a little jaded from seeing so many Rembrandts on our Amsterdam tour but still it was impressive, along with other pieces of his work on display.  moran-1

More interesting to me though was the Charlotte Bronte exhibit that showcased all her talents from drawing to writing.  She and her sisters started early in life by creating tiny books telling stories to each other.  Charlotte was a strong liberated woman for her day (with a teeny tiny 18 inch waist-dress pic) and wanted only to write and not be a teacher or governess as the culture would dictate her to be in the early 1800’s.  She declared herself “a free human being with an independent will”.  Unfortunately, it’s still hard to make a living being a writer even in this day and age.  I respect her fortitude to follow her passion and share her talents with the world.

After soaking up the opulent Morgan Library with it’s iron staircases leading to even more books on the upper floors interspersed with tapestries and paintings and, of course, an elegant ceiling, we enjoyed a jazz trio treating the crowd to a spirited jam session.  Resting before the walk home, Thom and I smiled and agreed it was another perfect day in NYC.