Exploring Hampstead and Highgate Cemetery

If you want to get out of central London and take a quick Tube ride to explore new sights, I highly recommend a day spent wander around Highgate Cemetery for hours, then ending your day with a cozy dinner at the historic Spaniard’s Inn. Another day, boutique shop and enjoy a leisurely pub meal in Hampstead, followed by taking in a movie in a luxurious historic theater. I love London and there are unlimited things to do but sometimes it’s nice to get out of the city and have a new adventure!

Highgate Cemetery

Highgate Cemetery is one of the earliest private garden cemeteries in England and well worth a visit. It truly is a “garden” cemetery because nature has taken over and shaped its landscape. There is none of the maintenance like cutting back growth and mowing that you might see in other cemeteries. The large monuments are covered in vines, tilting from tree roots that have grown wild, and vegetation rules everywhere. This is a “for profit” cemetery that lured middle class and upper-class burials away from the more common church graveyards that had become crowded in the 1800s in London.

Allow yourself a few hours to wander this historic Victorian era cemetery north of London. Thom loves cemeteries so we try to check out any interesting ones as we travel. There is an admission fee of $10 and tours are available for $8 more-card payments only/no cash. We opted to wander on our own around both the East side and the West side, each with their own creepy charm. Don’t forget to go in the teeny tiny gift shop where they sell tickets on the East Side and get your unique Karl Marx doll refrigerator magnet. One of a kind! We told them they need to sell stickers (which we collect) but the cashier said they won’t let them sell them and that they had to fight to get the Karl Marx magnets. Okay. Their loss of income. Check open/close times online Highgate Cemetery as they vary by season. When we were there, the last entry was at 3:30 pm, which makes sense especially in the winter when it gets dark at 4 pm. You do NOT want to wander this place at night. Remember Dark Shadows? We went home and immediately watched the movie Fantastic Beasts, which they shot on location in Highgate (substituting for Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, another great place we have visited)

There is a very small amount of parking at the entrance. We took an Uber there and home. Only took about five minutes to get one. There are some bus stops nearby as well but not really anywhere to walk from/to and no close by Tube stations so plan your transportation accordingly.

West Side Cemetery

This side was the first to open of the two in 1839. Stay on the paths. Don’t disrespect the very old dead people. Use the maps you can get where you buy tickets to read about the people buried here and to make sure you don’t get too lost. We headed down the main drive to the far back to check out the Circle of Lebanon, Egyptian Avenue, and the Terrace Catacombs (great scenes in Fantastic Beasts of these spots). Speaking of beasts, when we saw a huge lion statue guarding a gravesite, we looked up and saw that buried under the lion was George Wombwell, the owner of several travelling animals shows and the statue represents Nero, his very own lion. This side is the most “prestigious” area to be buried. George Michael is buried on this side-I didn’t even know he was dead. He is described in the pamphlet as “one of the most significant cultural figures of the MTV generation.”

East Side Cemetery

Your entry ticket covers both sides, so we had to check out this side too because Karl Marx is buried here. Lots of flowers left here for Karl by visitors. As we wandered back, we saw a simple headstone that had bowls of pens left by visitors. Hmmm…a writer perhaps? Consulting our guide and looking at the engraving we discovered that buried there was Douglas Adams, author of Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxies, a favorite book of Thom’s. You never know who you will find at the cemetery!

Spaniard’s Inn

After a long walk amongst the dead at Highgate, we were hungry and nearby just happened to be the lovely Spaniard’s Inn, established in 1585. We grabbed an Uber and a few minutes later were able to enjoy a wood-burning fireplace, low (not for those with any height) wood beamed ceilings and cozy wood booths. Mentioned in Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers and Bram Stoker’s Dracula, this place oozes British charm. The food was very good as well! I had a warm goat cheese salad; Thom had the traditional Shepherd’s pie, and we shared a sticky toffee pudding. Our booth was near the front window on the street, where that section of road is a “blind” which means with no signing whatsoever, cars and buses have to navigate a section that is only wide enough for one vehicle. In the old times, carriages and horseback riders could make it through but, because there is a historical gatehouse on one side and Spaniard’s Inn on the other and neither could be torn down to widen the road, they just somehow make it work. We saw many a vehicle backing up because the opposing driver was more aggressive and drove into the blind first. Chaos! Let’s just say that the double decker bus always won the right of way and rightly so.

I would recommend reservations if you are going at peak dining hours. They have a huge garden dining space that doubles their capacity in the summer.

Hampstead

Eager to check out another village close by, we took the Tube to Hampstead, known as the place where Harry Styles lives. It is certainly more posh than our village. How so? Well, there were many clothing boutiques, optical stores and cafes/pubs. Our village has more ethnic groceries/cafes and thrift stores-absolutely no boutiques. It was fun seeing how the other half lives. Lots of fancy folks walking around with their dogs. It’s easy to see why if you have the money, you live here in the lovely quaint village and commute to London, about 20 minutes away by Tube. If you have time, check out the luxury movie theater, Everyman, that is an intimate space with overstuffed chairs or couches with full bar/food service to your seats. It is just lovely, and I wish we had this theater experience back home. I would go all the time. Enjoy the journey!

Leave a comment