Not that there aren’t endless things to do in Florence but if you are lucky enough to be there for a few weeks as we were recently, you can afford one day to travel outside the city and explore the Tuscan countryside. In the past, we enjoyed a day trip to Lucca, riding a bike around the top of the wall, walking the quaint streets, and enjoying the local cuisine. This time, we decided to visit Siena after many friends recommended it. Why go to Siena? To soak in the stunning Gothic architecture, Italian ambience, wander the steep medieval streets, and sit at a café to enjoy the delicious food and drink.
Siena is situated between Rome and Florence on what was the only major road in the past before trains. This location made it an important stopover and the 1300s were the golden years for Siena. After you arrive in Siena, make your way to the Piazza del Campo and the Torre del Mangia, which is the dominant landmark in Siena. As in most Italian towns, the piazza is the heart and soul of the city. People meet here for events, games and socializing. This piazza is also home to Siena’s famous bareback horse race, the Palio de Siena, which is held twice a year. Ten neighborhoods aka Contradas (out of 17+) are selected to have riders in this race and each Contrada has its own banner. Crashes are frequent in this barely 90 second race. The prize is a banner of the Virgin Mary, not cash. The day we were in the piazza, there were local high school students practicing their art by drawing free portraits. Thom and I both took advantage of this special experience. How fun!
While you are in the square, visit the Palazzo Pubblico, the city hall, and within that, the Museo Civicio, the civic museum, which houses a famous fresco called ‘Allegory of Good and Bad Government’, dating to the 14th century when it was commissioned by the secular government rather than the church – very unusual for its time and for Italy. Of course, there’s also a chapel inside with its own religious frescoes.
Il Duomo di Siena is a must-see if you go to Siena. One of the most beautiful Gothic cathedrals in Europe, the dark green-and-white-striped marble interior and outside the detailed facades are impressive. Walk uphill from the piazza to get there. While you’re there, you can also pop into the adjoining Piccolomini Library, which has a very impressive ceiling. She wolves are the Siena mascots and represented by sculptures throughout the city. Everywhere you look there is beauty and artistry to admire!
There are many cafes on the piazza to enjoy or walk down one of the quaint streets to find delicious food for much less. Settling in at our outside table that was a under a tarp, luckily as it had started raining, we settled in to wait out the rainstorm and enjoy the local cuisine. So much for that “no way it’s gonna rain today” forecast! Of course, we had left our umbrellas at home-never again do we go on a day trip without our umbrellas! The food was spot on at the tiny cafe. Thom tried pasta with wild boar sauce and my vegetable panini was filled with cheese, mushrooms, and zucchini. We topped that off with pistachio cream cake and espresso. As the rain subsided, we began the long trek down to the train station for our return to Florence. Rolling through the green Tuscan hills was the perfect end to our adventure to Siena.
BUY TICKETS IN ADVANCE
You’ll definitely want to go online in advance and buy tickets to the Duomo, so you aren’t wasting time in the ticket purchase line. Our tickets were $8 each and we purchased them through the Get Your Guide app: Siena: Siena Cathedral and Piccolomini Library Entry Ticket (getyourguide.com). I typically use Viator or Get Your Guide apps for our guided tours and experiences. They have a great cancel policy, and you don’t get charged until a few days before even if you book it months in advance. Great flexibility!
GETTING THERE
We took the train from Florence to Siena, but you can also take a bus or go on a guided tour that includes transportation (use Viator). Whatever suits your budget and style! Do. Not. Drive. Hard stop. No need to go through that stress with easy options of either the bus or train. Then you can sit back, enjoy the view, and avoid the crazy Italian driving and nonexistent parking.
The train from Florence to Siena costs about 10 euros one way and leaves around once an hour, with the journey taking an hour and 30 mins. Seats aren’t booked so it’s first come, first sit. You can also have the option to bring your bike into the train and hang it up for the trip. It’s a local regional train so it will make a few stops along the way. Bus trip (Rapida fast bus vs. Ordinaria regional bus that makes stops) is only slightly faster than the train and there isn’t a bathroom on board like there is on a train. You can buy your train tickets at the station or via Trenitalia but remember to validate them before boarding. If you buy tickets on Trenitalia, you just click on “check in” within their app on your phone to validate before boarding.
Get to the train station at least 20 minutes early. There are lots of shops and cafes in the station. Your platform number will be assigned about 15 minutes prior to departure and will show on your app ticket and also on departure boards in the station. Proceed directly to the train to get a seat. Go through the gates with green signs showing and show ticket screen on your phone to attendant. Go to your platform and board. There are no assigned seats on train to Siena. Pack snacks, water, reading material and enjoy the journey! There are outlets on the train if you bring your adapters.
It’s about a 25 minute walk from the train station to Piazza del Campo, the main square. All uphill!
There is a taxi stand right outside the train station. To go all the way up to the Duomo, the taxi was 10 euros and worth every cent. They drop you off a block or so from Duomo. Take note of where that is and go back there to find a taxi letting off people so you can jump in for the ride back to the train station. Enjoy the journey!
Travels with Melinda 