A visit to the mystical village of Fiesole, just three miles up the hill overlooking the Arno valley, is the perfect day trip from Florence. To get a feel for Roman times in Tuscany, wait for good weather and, after a 20-minute bus ride, you can take in the breathtaking views and wander around an amazingly well-preserved Etruscan-Roman archaeological area dating back to the beginning of the 11th millennium B.C. Once a fierce rival of Florence, this beautiful location became valued by Florentines who wanted an estate with a view. Who wouldn’t want to live on top of a lush hill with superb views? Count me in!

A blend of Etruscan presence and Roman occupation, there is an outstanding Roman amphitheater that is still used for theatrical and musical performances. Walk the grounds behind the amphitheater to explore Roman baths and Etruscan walls and temples discovered in the 1800s and take in the sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside, which is why the Romans must have wanted this prime hilltop location. From Fiesole, you could see any enemies approaching AND keep dry from the Arno River flooding, which it does on occasion with devastating consequences.

The city’s Civic Archaeology Museum is located within the site. For just $10 euros, you can visit both the site and museum. What is absolutely crazy is the lack of tourists taking advantage of this experience. Within the museum, you’ll find the Antiquarian Costantini, a special collection of over 150 pieces of ceramics from ancient Greece and Etruria. Seriously, there were maybe 2-5 people in the whole museum when we were there. The replicas are from the Romans, Etruscans and Lombards, who all occupied this key hill in Tuscany at various times. So many levels of history here to enjoy. Also, within the archaeological grounds is Caffe Teatro, which has food and snacks with full bar to take a respite with a view. And there are bathrooms!

If you have time, walk uphill from the architecture site and village square to visit the monastic complex. The whole complex is a sacred space…with a million-dollar view! The interior of the church is worth a visit with beautiful artwork to admire. Fun fact-Leonardo da Vinci first experimented with the concept of flight from this very hilltop town. There is also the Museo Bandini across the street from the archaeological area. Entry to the museum can be included as a combo ticket with the Archaeological area and museum. This is the home of paintings from the 12th-14th centuries. So much to see in this little village!

We visited Fiesole in late May, and they were just setting up the amphitheater for the Estate Fiesolana summer event. Next visit to Florence (and there will certainly be at least one!) we may have to time it differently so we can take in this unique experience. We will have to bring seat cushions though for those stone slab seats-ouch.

Getting There:

Hop on the #7 bus by the Santa Maria Novella train station. Get off when you arrive at Fiesole’s main square, Piazza Mino. Go directly across the street, past the Cathedral of St. Romulus (You must cover your bare shoulders/knees as usual in sacred spaces.) Visit the cathedral if it’s open-it wasn’t when we visited) and you will see the entrance to the archaeological site. Enjoy the journey!