Category: Florence

Galileo Museum in Florence

On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Galileo Museum, Italy, Museum, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

You will leave the Galileo Museum in Florence in awe of the immense body of work this one human attained during his lifetime. This museum not only highlights all his accomplishments but also provides insight into his personal life as well. We got the audio guide to help guide us through all the exhibits from astronomy to medical to architecture and more. Galileo was constantly inventing and learning. This hidden gem in back of the Uffizi with great views of the River Arno is definitely worth a visit.

Galileo (1564-1642) was an astronomer, inventor, physicist, engineer and mathematician. What a mind! Living during a time where science was viewed with skepticism and often judged as being in opposition to religious beliefs in very Catholic Italy, Galileo managed to alienate the Pope of that time. Oops! He was tried by inquisition for heresy and forced to live the rest of his life under house arrest. However, he used this seclusion as time to continue his life’s work, which is on display and celebrated in this museum.

You enter the museum and have a chance to see all the astronomical instruments he and others invented to enable scientific observations of celestial objects. His collection of telescopes is featured in one room and in another the microscopes he created. Of course, his inventions were appropriated at one point for military uses, for example enabling better navigation with his compasses. 

I won’t begin to provide all the biographical details about Galileo, but you can read more about him here: Galileo Galilei – Wikipedia OR you could just start planning a trip to Florence so you can experience Galileo’s life in person at this wonderful museum!

VISIT:

You can buy your tickets online at https://www.museogalileo.it/en/ or at the door. This is not like the Uffizi, which is on every tourist’s list, so the lines are not long to get in. When we visited, there were local children school groups taking tours but, in general, the museum was not crowded. Enjoy the journey!

Santa Maria Novella-Florence

On By Travels with MelindaIn Europe, Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips, travelling1 Comment

While it might not make your agenda if you only have a few days in Florence, if you are lucky enough to have a week or two, then Santa Maria Novella is worth your time to check out. You can visit the church in its entirety, including the frescoed chapels, the sacristy and Avelli cemetery. Highlights include the Cloister of the Dead, the Green Cloister, the Spanish Chapel, the Ubriachi Chapel and the Refectory. Admire the Masaccio Trinity, Giotto’s crucifix, Brunelleschi’s crucifix, Cappella Tornabuoni (painted by Ghirlandaio), and frescoes by Filippino Lippi, Nardo di Cione, Piero da Miniato and Botticelli. There is gorgeous art everywhere you look!

Completed around 1420, like many other Florence historic institutions, Santa Maria Novella suffered extreme damage in the 1966 floods. While most of the interior was restored, there are outdoor frescoes in the burial cloisters that still show the damage. While no one seriously famous is buried here, there are burial monuments everywhere for wealthy and important Florentines of the past. 

In the museum, one art piece, The Last Supper, really stood out to me for it’s vibrant colors and the artist’s story. I saw the famous fresco by Leonardo da Vinci in Milan and this version is totally different. As you go through all the cathedrals and museums in Florence, it’s no secret that the Italian Renaissance was THE influential period in art history, but it was totally dominated by male artists like da Vinci, Michaelangelo and Raphael. Any woman??  Any??? Well, Sister Plautilla Nelli (1524-1588) a Dominican nun not only painted her version of famous religious scenes like The Last Supper in the convent, but she founded an all-woman art workshop within her convent and taught other nuns how to paint. They generated income and took on art commission work by wealthy private citizens in Florence. In the 1500s!

VISIT

 It’s only 7.5 euros to wander through and soak in the basilica, the cloisters, the museum-really, it just kept going on and on. Plan a few hours to enjoy it all-they offer free guided tours by locals and audio guides too. Make sure to check the online site How can I visit Santa Maria Novella? | Santa Maria Novella (smn.it) for current visiting hours.

Florence’s Jewish Synagogue and Museum

On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips, travelling, Uncategorized1 Comment

We are always on the lookout for hidden gems that are off the beaten path when we travel. In Florence, we took the time to tour the Synagogue and Jewish Museum, which may not be on all tourists’ agendas, but we really enjoyed our visit there. Be sure to save time to eat at one of the nearby kosher restaurants too!

Opened in 1882, this beautiful Synagogue is the heart of Florence’s Jewish community. Surrounded by a lush garden, the synagogue’s architectural details not to be missed include exotic style with Moorish, Romanesque and Byzantine elements combined. We got the audio tour and learned all about the history behind the building. The museum is a superb collection of historical items of Jewish art. Allow about two hours at least to take it all in.

The impressive exterior with white travertine and pink limestone, together with the central dome and the copper-clad side towers, is an iconic Florence landmark that is the heart and soul of the city’s Jewish life. Whatever religion you follow or none at all, it is always interesting to experience all sides of the cities you visit. Enjoy the journey!

VISIT

Check online before you go as the opening days/time change with the seasons: Synagogue and Jewish Museum in Florence | Jewish Florence. We were given a locker to secure our bags before we entered and were allowed to bring in our phones so we could take pictures (no flash). They ask for men to wear the headcover provided. To be respectful, please adhere.

Fried artichoke
Cheses zucchini fritters and salad

We have eaten at Ba Ghetta in Rome known for their delicacy, the fried artichoke. Sadly, they weren’t open yet when we were there (restaurants usually close between lunch and dinner that starts around 8 pm). Luckily, Ruth’s cafe across the street was open and served us a tasty fried artichoke and cheese zucchini fritters. Neither of these fantastic foods are available back home in Idaho. Enjoy the journey!

Fiesole-Day Trip from Florence

On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

A visit to the mystical village of Fiesole, just three miles up the hill overlooking the Arno valley, is the perfect day trip from Florence. To get a feel for Roman times in Tuscany, wait for good weather and, after a 20-minute bus ride, you can take in the breathtaking views and wander around an amazingly well-preserved Etruscan-Roman archaeological area dating back to the beginning of the 11th millennium B.C. Once a fierce rival of Florence, this beautiful location became valued by Florentines who wanted an estate with a view. Who wouldn’t want to live on top of a lush hill with superb views? Count me in!

A blend of Etruscan presence and Roman occupation, there is an outstanding Roman amphitheater that is still used for theatrical and musical performances. Walk the grounds behind the amphitheater to explore Roman baths and Etruscan walls and temples discovered in the 1800s and take in the sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside, which is why the Romans must have wanted this prime hilltop location. From Fiesole, you could see any enemies approaching AND keep dry from the Arno River flooding, which it does on occasion with devastating consequences.

The city’s Civic Archaeology Museum is located within the site. For just $10 euros, you can visit both the site and museum. What is absolutely crazy is the lack of tourists taking advantage of this experience. Within the museum, you’ll find the Antiquarian Costantini, a special collection of over 150 pieces of ceramics from ancient Greece and Etruria. Seriously, there were maybe 2-5 people in the whole museum when we were there. The replicas are from the Romans, Etruscans and Lombards, who all occupied this key hill in Tuscany at various times. So many levels of history here to enjoy. Also, within the archaeological grounds is Caffe Teatro, which has food and snacks with full bar to take a respite with a view. And there are bathrooms!

If you have time, walk uphill from the architecture site and village square to visit the monastic complex. The whole complex is a sacred space…with a million-dollar view! The interior of the church is worth a visit with beautiful artwork to admire. Fun fact-Leonardo da Vinci first experimented with the concept of flight from this very hilltop town. There is also the Museo Bandini across the street from the archaeological area. Entry to the museum can be included as a combo ticket with the Archaeological area and museum. This is the home of paintings from the 12th-14th centuries. So much to see in this little village!

We visited Fiesole in late May, and they were just setting up the amphitheater for the Estate Fiesolana summer event. Next visit to Florence (and there will certainly be at least one!) we may have to time it differently so we can take in this unique experience. We will have to bring seat cushions though for those stone slab seats-ouch.

Getting There:

Hop on the #7 bus by the Santa Maria Novella train station. Get off when you arrive at Fiesole’s main square, Piazza Mino. Go directly across the street, past the Cathedral of St. Romulus (You must cover your bare shoulders/knees as usual in sacred spaces.) Visit the cathedral if it’s open-it wasn’t when we visited) and you will see the entrance to the archaeological site. Enjoy the journey!

Florence River Cruise

On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips1 Comment

Float down the River Arno under the most beautiful bridges in Florence while being serenaded by a truly fantastic violinist? Yes, please! The River Arno in Florence is not an especially busy waterway but there are a few cruises you can enjoy from the Venice-style gondolas to the electric party boat that we took complete with entertainment!

While the boats cruise at various times throughout the day and early evening, I booked the latest time available, around sunset. We were able to admire this beautiful city from a unique perspective during the “golden hour”. Checking out the location of the boat launch the day before our cruise, so we weren’t wandering around looking for it on the day of the cruise, we walked from our apartment in the Oltrarno to the landing just past the Uffizi. The boat was pretty basic with some chairs in the shade and no refreshments served on board-strictly BYOB. I booked it through the Get Your Guide app here. For only $38 euros, this 50-minute cruise complete with a live violin concert was a bargain!

You will definitely want to take videos/photos on this cruise. Floating under the Ponte Vecchio bridge was the highlight. As you drift by and can see all the details of this medieval icon of Florence, you will notice the various shops jutting out this way and that. What a view to have from a retail store! It’s an amazing structure to see from a distance but very special to see up close from underneath.

Because you definitely want great weather for a river cruise, I appreciate the Get Your Guide’s cancel policy, which allows you to cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. So, you can book in advance, watch the weather, and cancel/reschedule if there is rain in the forecast. We were lucky-no rain! Make sure you bring some euros to tip the musician-they depend on it. Our violinist also had a QR code to scan and donate directly to him if you didn’t have cash plus he had some CDs to buy-wish I had purchased one!! Guess I’ll just have to go back to Florence and take another cruise. Enjoy the journey!

Siena Day Trip from Florence

On By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Europe, Florence, Italy, Siena, Travel, travel hacks, travel tips, travelling1 Comment

Not that there aren’t endless things to do in Florence but if you are lucky enough to be there for a few weeks as we were recently, you can afford one day to travel outside the city and explore the Tuscan countryside. In the past, we enjoyed a day trip to Lucca, riding a bike around the top of the wall, walking the quaint streets, and enjoying the local cuisine. This time, we decided to visit Siena after many friends recommended it. Why go to Siena? To soak in the stunning Gothic architecture, Italian ambience, wander the steep medieval streets, and sit at a café to enjoy the delicious food and drink.

Siena is situated between Rome and Florence on what was the only major road in the past before trains. This location made it an important stopover and the 1300s were the golden years for Siena. After you arrive in Siena, make your way to the Piazza del Campo and the Torre del Mangia, which is the dominant landmark in Siena. As in most Italian towns, the piazza is the heart and soul of the city. People meet here for events, games and socializing. This piazza is also home to Siena’s famous bareback horse race, the Palio de Siena, which is held twice a year. Ten neighborhoods aka Contradas (out of 17+) are selected to have riders in this race and each Contrada has its own banner. Crashes are frequent in this barely 90 second race. The prize is a banner of the Virgin Mary, not cash. The day we were in the piazza, there were local high school students practicing their art by drawing free portraits. Thom and I both took advantage of this special experience. How fun!

While you are in the square, visit the Palazzo Pubblico, the city hall, and within that, the Museo Civicio, the civic museum, which houses a famous fresco called ‘Allegory of Good and Bad Government’, dating to the 14th century when it was commissioned by the secular government rather than the church – very unusual for its time and for Italy. Of course, there’s also a chapel inside with its own religious frescoes.

Il Duomo di Siena is a must-see if you go to Siena. One of the most beautiful Gothic cathedrals in Europe, the dark green-and-white-striped marble interior and outside the detailed facades are impressive. Walk uphill from the piazza to get there. While you’re there, you can also pop into the adjoining Piccolomini Library, which has a very impressive ceiling. She wolves are the Siena mascots and represented by sculptures throughout the city. Everywhere you look there is beauty and artistry to admire!

There are many cafes on the piazza to enjoy or walk down one of the quaint streets to find delicious food for much less. Settling in at our outside table that was a under a tarp, luckily as it had started raining, we settled in to wait out the rainstorm and enjoy the local cuisine. So much for that “no way it’s gonna rain today” forecast! Of course, we had left our umbrellas at home-never again do we go on a day trip without our umbrellas! The food was spot on at the tiny cafe. Thom tried pasta with wild boar sauce and my vegetable panini was filled with cheese, mushrooms, and zucchini. We topped that off with pistachio cream cake and espresso. As the rain subsided, we began the long trek down to the train station for our return to Florence. Rolling through the green Tuscan hills was the perfect end to our adventure to Siena.

BUY TICKETS IN ADVANCE

You’ll definitely want to go online in advance and buy tickets to the Duomo, so you aren’t wasting time in the ticket purchase line. Our tickets were $8 each and we purchased them through the Get Your Guide app: Siena: Siena Cathedral and Piccolomini Library Entry Ticket (getyourguide.com). I typically use Viator or Get Your Guide apps for our guided tours and experiences. They have a great cancel policy, and you don’t get charged until a few days before even if you book it months in advance. Great flexibility!

GETTING THERE

We took the train from Florence to Siena, but you can also take a bus or go on a guided tour that includes transportation (use Viator). Whatever suits your budget and style! Do. Not. Drive. Hard stop. No need to go through that stress with easy options of either the bus or train. Then you can sit back, enjoy the view, and avoid the crazy Italian driving and nonexistent parking.

The train from Florence to Siena costs about 10 euros one way and leaves around once an hour, with the journey taking an hour and 30 mins. Seats aren’t booked so it’s first come, first sit. You can also have the option to bring your bike into the train and hang it up for the trip. It’s a local regional train so it will make a few stops along the way. Bus trip (Rapida fast bus vs. Ordinaria regional bus that makes stops) is only slightly faster than the train and there isn’t a bathroom on board like there is on a train. You can buy your train tickets at the station or via Trenitalia but remember to validate them before boarding. If you buy tickets on Trenitalia, you just click on “check in” within their app on your phone to validate before boarding.

Get to the train station at least 20 minutes early. There are lots of shops and cafes in the station. Your platform number will be assigned about 15 minutes prior to departure and will show on your app ticket and also on departure boards in the station. Proceed directly to the train to get a seat. Go through the gates with green signs showing and show ticket screen on your phone to attendant. Go to your platform and board. There are no assigned seats on train to Siena. Pack snacks, water, reading material and enjoy the journey! There are outlets on the train if you bring your adapters.

It’s about a 25 minute walk from the train station to Piazza del Campo, the main square. All uphill!

There is a taxi stand right outside the train station. To go all the way up to the Duomo, the taxi was 10 euros and worth every cent. They drop you off a block or so from Duomo. Take note of where that is and go back there to find a taxi letting off people so you can jump in for the ride back to the train station. Enjoy the journey!

Florence in 7 days-Girls Trip 2021

On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Girls Trip, Italy, UncategorizedLeave a comment

OUR FLORENCE ITINERARY: You’ll notice that climbing the Duomo and visiting museums like the Uffizi Gallery aren’t on here. If that’s your jam, buy tickets online to skip the crowds. I prefer unique experiences and just walking the streets to soak up the culture and local feel. When we plan our Girl Trips, each person gets to pick an activity that is a “must do” and we schedule it on the itinerary after researching all the options. I have now personally experienced the following adventures, all of which I highly recommend, and can’t wait to share with you! I hope your trip to Italy will be as memorable and fun as our Girls Trip 2021. Enjoy the journey!

DAY ONE (Arrival)
We stayed at an ARBNB in the Oltrarno neighborhood-an area filled with sidewalk cafes and artisan shops. Less tourists, more locals. Airport transfer: our ARBNB host recommended a driver in advance, and we used him throughout our trip ($45 pick-up at airport & $50/hour for taking us on day trips-very nice Mercedes Van with room for five passengers). We walked around the neighborhood, got some groceries and unpacked.

Dinner –Trattoria 4 Leoni – Florence – Trattoria 4 Leoni – Florence Eat outdoors on Piazza della Passera-no English spoken by the waiters so download an app to translate the menu. The steaks were huge if you are a meat-eater and the pasta delicious.

DAY TWO
Shake off jet leg and work out those legs at Boboli Gardens (reservations needed for weekends $13/during week $10/day but you can buy online or just get at the gate) Walk up the hill and get a stunning view of Florence. Use the back entrance on Via Romana-less crowded. Spend hours wandering. Wear comfortable shoes. Bring water.

Evening private tour of Torrigiani Gardens with host who lives at the family villa and dinner on the terrace made by his wife.  www.info@giardinotorrigiani.it 250 euros for 3 people-cash only (euros).  

DAY THREE
Private walking tour for our group of three. Axel, our guide, took us all over Florence on both sides of the Arno so it was a great way to start our trip. We tasted everything: cheese, meat, pastry, wine, gelato! (Book online-we paid $209 USD for 3 people-plus we tipped our guide at end of tour-cash only (euros) for tips everywhere in Italy even restaurants. You can’t add a tip to the bill.).

Lunch at Babae, featured by Stanley Tucci (in Oltrarno) Opens at noon– book table on WhatsApp. They have a functioning wine door. Cheers!  

DAY FOUR
All day Tuscany tour of winery at Corzano and Paterno Farm, 50020 San Casciano in Val di Pesa, 40 minutes each way driving from Florence. Duration of tour/tasting is two hours. Arrange your own transportation. Book online: 30 euros per person-a bargain that included: Vineyard walk, cellar and dairy tour with a description of the production process. A light outdoor lunch with wines, cheese, cured meat, veggies, fruits, dessert and tasting of three wines. 

DAY FIVE
Private Cooking class just outside Florence-they provide transportation from Florence city center. Includes plentiful lunch with wine. Majla and her husband host you in their family villa. Cost was 135 euros per person and absolutely worth it to learn how to make pasta from scratch the Italian way.

Dinner at rooftop bar SE-STO on Arno -on top of Westin hotel. Gorgeous view of Ponte Vecchio bridge and river. Make reservations. May not get them if not staying at the Westin but you can try. We got in.  

DAY SIX
Artisan Workshops Visit – Florence Artisan Tour – ArtViva will tailor to your wishes. We asked to see artisans making jewelry and leather goods. Private guide for 3 people was 50 euros each. Maria was our tour guide and interpreted for us so we could speak with artisans. Of course, we bought some great pieces to take home with us!

Dinner at rooftop bar in Piazza Santa Spirito: Loggia  https://www.palazzoguadagni.com/loggia-roof-bar/   

DAY SEVEN
Local neighborhood walk in the Oltrarno with a visit to the market in Santo Spirito square and quick stop at Brancacci Chapel Cappella Brancacci, Florence – TripAdvisor and Parrocchia Collegiata Sant’Anna Cagliari (both places we were only ones there-you just walk in to see the fabulous chapels).

Dinner on the patio at La Loggia | Ristorante La Loggia in Piazzale Michelangelo (open 11-11 daily) Great view overlooking the city. Walk across the road past the parking lot to the edge and take stunning pictures of Florence.  

EVERY DAY-EAT GELATO Recommend these two places but there is no “bad” gelato: Gelateria La Carraia and Gelateria Santa Trinità (Oltrarno) are both amazing. Look for gelato in covered metal containers not large colorful mounds on display if you want the local stuff.  

SHOPPING-as much as you can fit in your luggage or do like we did and buy another big piece of luggage to check on your way home-cheaper and safer than shipping stuff: Most stores are closed on Sunday. Other days usually open 10-1 And 3-8-but it’s Italy though so who knows when they will be open! Stroll and visit the small shops in the Oltrarno run by the artists themselves selling their creations: leather, paper, jewelry, art. Artisans we visited on our tour:

Ginerva Gemmi (jewelry) and Frau Leman (leather). Both female artisans with unique pieces.  

NAA Studio showcased typical Florentine jewelry with stamping on silver.

We bought a lot at the Leather School-real Florence artisans working on sight and wide selection of locally made leather. They ship to US for free if you buy enough. They also stamp your initials on leather for free onsite as you wait.

Angela Caputi jewelry https://www.angelacaputi.com/en/ via S. Spirito 58R. Her collections are carried at museums and are stunning. I get so many compliments on the pieces I own. Several stores in Italy. They do not sell online so buy what you want while you are in Italy or regret it.

For more of my blogs about Florence, go here: https://travelswithmelinda.com/category/florence/

Florence: Reflections on Italian ARBNBs-Girls Trip 2021

On By Travels with MelindaIn Airbnb, Florence, Girls Trip, Italy, UncategorizedLeave a comment

We stay in ARBNBs for our Girls Trips so that we can each have a bedroom and a bath but can come together in common spaces to spend time together, at least the few times we are not out running around. We also like a kitchen, so we don’t have to eat out every meal. Our Florence ARBNB was in a villa in the Oltrarno neighborhood and owned by sisters, who rent out half of it (3 bedroom/2 bath) with a full kitchen and lovely outside space and then they live in the other half with their multi-generational families. What follows is my reflections on our Italian ARBNB journey!

Our villa oozed Italian charm but “cozy” it was not. Is that Italian living? While this post covers in detail what our ARBNB stay was like with lots of cautionary tales for future travelers, so they know what to expect, but please don’t think it was a bad stay. We will cherish being able to experience the Italian lifestyle, hard beds and all! That’s what I love about travel. It exposes you to the way other people live and makes you appreciate your own lifestyle when you get back home. Win-Win.

When I travel, I do love staying in apartments/houses in local neighborhoods to get a real feel for the country and culture. That being said, I am American and used to all things soft and convenient. I have multiple plush throws in our home, soft throw pillows, comfy chairs and large couches, etc. There was nothing soft in this ARBNB, but it was a very nice place so I’m thinking it’s probably the same all around Italy? The beds were very hard, the one couch we had was hard, the patio furniture was metal and hard. You get the theme. Hard. Perhaps that it is on purpose to encourage people to leave their homes and get out and be social? One cultural difference I appreciated was seeing families and friends congregating to eat at the local cafes vs. staying isolated in their homes watching endless TV shows. Everyone talking and enjoying life together-what a concept!

Spread out over three floors (with stone sloping steep stairs and a tiny elevator only to help with luggage), we did get quite the workout over the week. When renting an ARBNB in Europe, prepare for lots of stairs as elevators are a rare commodity. The tall original windows (4x longer than typical American windows) with indoor wooden shutters were utterly authenticate and charming. There were no window screens, though, which seems so dangerous to have around children if you are staying on an upper floor. I looked around other houses in Florence and the “no screens” seemed to be common. Also, the windows were wide enough when open to have an entire flock of birds (or bats) fly in while you are getting some breeze not to mention the insects (yes, they have mosquitos here) so, as picturesque as they were, we did try to keep the windows closed most of the time so as not to come home to a nest of birds in our space. I did make sure our ARBNB had a/c in the bedrooms. We each had a wall (not window) air conditioner to moderate the heat. If you are going any time it is hot, be sure to check the listing for a/c, which is not standard, and read the reviews to see if it works well. The thick stone walls did act as natural insulators as well as keeping out the heat.

I will say the bedroom sizes here were very large compared to the usual tiny dimensions of bedrooms in Europe. Don’t expect to sink into memory foam. The mattresses and pillows are thin and hard. The sheets vintage 1950 and the blankets were thin and rough. Sleeping like an Italian, you will probably walk 20,000 steps a day exploring beautiful Florence, so sleeping shouldn’t be a problem. You will be worn out!

Our place in Florence had a washer, which was terrific, and as is typical in Europe, there was no dryer. There was an outside clothesline you could hang items on to dry-just lean out the second story window and try not to fall as you place your items on display for the courtyard to see. I let my sister Becky do the hanging! We also used the drying rack (identical to the one I purchased in China for same use) and put it up in my bedroom to hang stuff on. Warning-these washers are so loud you would think a plane is taking off and landing. Do not run when you are trying to go to sleep!

Everything we needed for a happy week-long stay was provided. The function was there but it took a while to get used to the coarse towels. No need to get microdermabrasion now! Just give yourself a thorough rub down with these towels and you will say goodbye to that top layer of skin and feel years younger. None of this soft, fluffy towel stuff that pampered Americans are used to. If you use wash cloths, bring your own or buy some when you arrive. Wash cloths are not part of the towel assortment offered in most of Europe. I missed the warming towel racks like you find in Paris, which I love. Warning on the toilet paper: Charmin Ultra it is not. Ouch.

Our floor layout was not “open concept” and probably the result of chopping up the family villa into sections so they could rent out half and retain the original family living in the other half. You entered our ARBNB into the reception area on the ground level, where you check in and then enter your apartment. The only couch and 2 chairs are on this ground floor as well as a full bath. You then walk up 33 concrete stairs (luggage can go up in a service elevator). On the second floor, you have 2 bedrooms, a full bath and the kitchen/dining area. Up another flight of stairs is the attic bedroom, which thankfully Patti offered to take.

So, I would have loved to have had at least one comfortable couch on the main living level because going up and down the stairs to get to the main floor living room wasn’t practical and I can only sit on hard wood chairs for so long to eat dinner but not much after that. I’m just a soft American used to humongous soft sectionals, big screen TVs (no tv here) and even cushions on any hard chair or patio set. Here, it is wood or metal so get up and walk around the beautiful neighborhood instead of staying inside.

The bathrooms were bigger than most European ones with the usual handheld wand instead of an overhead showerhead with folding screen to keep water from escaping onto the floor. Of course, there was a bidet alongside the toilet. With ancient plumbing comes the lack of water pressure and flushing as loud as a freight train because water has to rise through all those ancient pipes from the lower depths on the villa. Whoosh! As is often the case in Europe, don’t expect lots of closets and hangers for your clothes. You may get an armoire but probably not. Pack less. Do laundry more.

I love coffee. A lot. I tend to drink about 3 mugs of coffee each morning. Here in Italy, they have these teeny tiny metal coffee pots that make a very small cup of coffee. My first attempt at making coffee at our ARBNB was a major fail. After doing some online research I can verify that you must put the water in the bottom, then the coffee goes in the middle, and you put it on the stove and the water shoots up as it is heated and somehow coffee is made. But only a tiny sip or two of coffee in one of the tiny cups provided. No mugs here. Nope. And forget just going out to get a Starbucks Grande Americano. No Starbucks in Florence proper-closest one is 20 miles out of the center of town, so I wasn’t able to get my usual Starbucks city mug to commemorate my trip this time. However, I’m going to Milan later this year and look forward to getting a mug at their new Starbucks roaster. Yes, Florence has lots of cafes, but they serve expresso in, yes, teeny tiny cups. They don’t seem to have “to go” capabilities. It is not part of the culture. Italians down an expresso at the bar, chat a little and quickly go about life. Unlike Americans who get their big, complicated coffee drinks from the drive-up window to take to work with them. So, when in Italy, adjust your expectations, embrace the local culture and enjoy the journey!

Accommodation questions to ask yourself before booking your vacation:

ARBNB

  • For ARBNB, look for “super hosts” and flexible cancel policies that allow you to cancel up to a week before you travel and still get a 100% refund. As someone who has lost big $$’s due to medical stuff popping up at the last minute that caused us to cancel reservations, the cancel policy is so important.
  • Read all the reviews. I don’t rent anything without multiple reviews. Comfy beds, a safe convenient neighborhood and cleanliness are important to us so I look for those features in the reviews.
  • How many bedrooms and baths are required-does everyone need their own bath? Harder to find that in Europe where one bath for a three bedroom is normal, and that’s if you can get three bedrooms,which is huge for Europe standards.
  • Do you need a kitchen-are you going to cook or go out to eat? For two weeks or more, I really need a full kitchen but can do without for less time.
  • Outside space-garden or patio? This might be a safety concern but for others who like to enjoy their wine sitting on a balcony it may be a necessity.
  • Wifi? We travel and I work remote so this is super important to me. While I can use my phone as a hotspot because I pay the international daily fees ($10/day), it’s not as stable for virtual calls.
  • Is there cable with English-speaking channels or a Smart TV where you can sign into your own apps like Netflix (just remember to sign out before you leave)? I don’t watch a lot but you never know when you may need to check out the news. We were in the UK when the Queen died and we did watch the local coverage.
  • Safety, safety, safety-ALWAYS check out the neighborhood where you would be staying before renting. Thom and I once stayed in a very local, somewhat sketchy neighborhood in Portugal where I didn’t feel so safe at night so we stayed in vs. going out after dark. Yes, it had a low nighly rate but for good reason. Check out the general neighborhood (you may not have an exact address on an ARBNB when booking) on Google maps. Are there restaurants, shopping, groceries, churches, etc. View the local area through street level cameras to get a feel for it.

HOTEL-if an ARBNB doesn’t work for you

  • Let’s talk check in time and check out time. If you stay in a hotel and arrive on a red eye early in the morning and can’t check in until 3 pm, hotels will typically check your bags for you so you can start immediately exploring. An ARBNB is less likely to be able to do this for you but you can ask. So, depending on your flight details, you may want to decide on a hotel vs. an ARBNB.
  • Want a pool or fitness center? I average walking 10,000-20,000 steps a day on vacation so I usually don’t need a fitness club.
  • On-site status members’ club at a hotel important to you? As my business travel peak when I was making many trips all over the world, I had free access to the hotel clubs with free booze and food which was wonderful.  I was very brand loyal in booking rooms just for this great perk. Marriott all the way!
  • View necessary? I like a view, preferably water, and will pay extra for it. Hotels may be more likely to have great views.
  • Accessibility to shops and cafes-is walking distance important? For longer terms stays, a grocery may be important to be close by. Remember, most groceries deliver now.
  • Pet friendly? When we travel locally by car, we bring along the pooch.
  • Kid friendly-I’ve rented places just for this feature if my grandkids will be with us so they are happily engaged playing while the adults relax.

Florence-Walking Food Tour-Girls Trip 2021

On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Food Tours, Girls Trip, Italy, UncategorizedLeave a comment

With our shins and calves aching after walking for miles, we prepared to do it again on Day 3 of our Girls Trip 2021. So much to see and do! Today’s adventure was a walking food tour booked through TripAdvisor. Our guide, Axel, met us on the steps of a church for our three-hour tour, and we were off to a caffeine stop at a lovely little café. No Starbucks here in Florence or Grande size coffees! The cafes serve espressos and tiny Americanos and cappuccinos. Most don’t have “takeaway” cups so expect to down it quickly at the café and get a quick caffeine jolt.

Our food tour stops after the café included Florence’s oldest market Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio which has been around since 1873. We wandered among the many butcher shops, cheese shops and food stalls where locals were buying their lunches. We bought coffee beans and hand cream at a little grocery stand-all made/grown in Florence and enjoyed tasting the “in season” fruit selection of peaches, plums, and grapes. Outside, there was a local market with clothes and household items. I got the first of many Italian pillow covers for a few euros. Great souvenir that doesn’t take up too much room in my luggage.

After the market, we walked to a tiny alleyway where we sat on the smallest of stools and sampled cheeses (not a big thing here other than parmigiana) and meats. Just when you think you can’t eat any more, you do. Now, to our credit, we did walk a lot! And the people watching was amazing. Across from our table was a small stall selling tripe (lining of an animal’s stomach) and wild boar (who roam the countryside and are hunted) panini sandwiches-both traditional Florence meats. No thank you!

The best taste of the day might have been at a bakery (of course) where the chocolate (big chunks) and cherry biscotti was to die for. My sister bought a big bag and has since ordered the biscotti shipped to her home in the US and also has learned to bake a similar version herself to feed her biscotti addiction. Yes, they were that good. Softer than the hard stuff we get in the US and bursting with flavor, they were baked in the little shop we visited. Ahhh the aromas of baking biscotti in Italy. Perfect.

Then, afternoon had arrived and it was time to bring on the vino! After touring the cellar of a wine store, we sampled the local white wine and had bread with truffle cream. Very tasty pairing indeed! The local balsamic vinegar is used on everything as is the olive oil.

As we walked over the Ponte Vecchio bridge, we learned an interesting history lesson from our guide: When the Germans were marching up through Italy, the General was told to blow up all the bridges in Florence to slow down their pursuers. Even he couldn’t bring himself to blow up the medievial Ponte Vecchio bridge. He blew up the rest of the bridges (which were rebuilt to look the same) and saved the Ponte Vecchio from destruction. Thank goodness for it is lovely to look at. Filled with gold shops and tourists, it’s not a place I would want to hang out but to photograph it with the reflection in the Arno river is lovely. To see the rowers out on the water with it in the background is stunning and iconic to Florence.

It was a hot day and the final stop on our tour was fortunately at a gelateria that makes its creamy sweetness locally as the line out the door would attest to it’s popularity. I had a 2 scoop cup topped off with a sweet wafer cookie-coffee and caramel crumble. Due to the heat, we ate quickly as it melted and bid adieu to Axel. You do tip the guides (euros only)-don’t forget!

Walking through a quiet side street off the beaten path, we saw a really well preserved “wine door” similar to what Stanley Tucci had featured on his Florence special. They used to pass wine through these doors to customers. We also saw some street art, which a local walking by who spoke English told us is against the law so you don’t see it widely across the city.

We headed home for showers, rest and a dinner with Gusta pizza leftovers, enjoyed in our private courtyard garden. Enjoy the journey!

Florence Artisan Shopping Tour-Girls Trip 2021

On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Girls Trip, Italy, Shopping, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Shopping is always on the itinerary for any Girls Trip. In Florence, our ARBNB was located in the artist epicenter of Florence called the Oltrarno, so we decided to go on a tour of local artisans, see them in action, and buy directly from the person making the beautiful creations. Artisan day! When we are crafting our itineraries for our Girls Trip, we try to have each person pick one “must do” activity. Patti picked this tour as her activity for us because she is an artist, excelling in sewing, knitting, drawing, etc. Designing a curated trip just for us focusing on women artists, the ArtViva tour folks asked for direction in what we wanted to see, and we shared that we were primarily interested in leather and jewelry making. Our expert guide, Maria, picked us up at our ARBNB and took us on a walking tour to local artisans in our Oltrarno neighborhood.

Leathermaking:

Frau Leman creates her own leather and fabric handbags, luggage and accessory designs. Each piece is handcrafted by her in her cozy studio/shop. She took time to explain to us the different types of leather and why she picks a certain kind for each of her designs. She weaves in colors to all her pieces even if the outside is all one color, adding a pop of color to the lining or the side vents. After talking to artists like Frau Leman, I appreciate even more the time it takes to design and actually create the unique pieces they sell. Of course, we wanted to support these local artisans, so we just had to make some Christmas gift purchases while we were there. We also have their information now if we want to buy items online and have them shipped to use in the US. Frau Leman Firenze Leathergoods (@frauleman) • Instagram photos and videos via della Chiesa 21R

The other main leather shopping we did on our trip was at the Florence leather school Scuola del Cuoio. I’ve visited there several times and always come away with beautifully handcrafted items for myself and others. On the last visit, I scored a multi-color (black and red) glass case that I got monogrammed in gold (for free and done on site as you wait after you purchase). My sister ordered holiday presents for her office staff and had them shipped to the US (free shipping if you spend over $120 euros). Unique and high quality, there is something for everyone at the leather school. From bookmarks and leather bracelets to belts, journals and higher ticket items like their icon bag (which I want to get on my next trip!) to leather jackets. The shop is tucked away and hard to find but well worth it! You won’t be disappointed.

Jewelry:

NAA Studio showcased typical Florentine jewelry with stamping on silver. The artist had an intern from the design school working for her to hone her trade. The intricate designs showcase the history of jewelry in Florence and Italy. One thing I noticed about the artisans is that their work is typically focused on one specialty that they are experts at like leather handbags or silver jewelry.

Ginevra Gemmi incorporates earthy and sculptural jewels shaped into earrings, rings and necklaces in silver, bronze and rough stones. She also photographs nature to showcase and inspire her designs even using the actual organic material such as leaves as her base, molding the metals around the leaves to get that natural look. You get a sense that she loves her little workshop/store space and enjoys talking to customers. Her puppy is her assistant and greets customers when not taking copious amounts of naps.  I now own several of Ginevra’s designs-a braided bronze ring and hummingbird earrings. I’m sure these won’t be the last artistic pieces I collect from her! Ginevra Gemmi Gioielli (@ginevra.gemmi.gioielli) • Instagram photos and videos via della Chiesa 29 Rosso

Our guide Maria pivoted quickly when we told her mid-tour that we would like to see some modern jewelry design too. She quickly jumped on the phone with her contacts and arranged for us to go by the Angela Caputi store in the neighborhood. The designer herself was at the workshop with her team. It was a very special moment when she stopped and talked with us through our guide as the interpreter. We even got a selfie! Her creations are inspired from American movies of the 1940’s as well as her long-standing passion for fashion. Her worldwide reputation has been displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York and at the V & A Museum in London. Her creations have also been seen in many films and on the runways. She has six boutiques that sell her work including the one we visited in Florence. I admire her style-the white hair, the black dress, the unique eyeglass frames and, of course, her jewelry.  She uses bold designs and colors with simple materials such as synthetic resins. I am very happy to say that I now own several jewelry pieces from Angelia Caputi and get compliments on them every time I wear them! Shop Angela Caputi jewelry https://www.angelacaputi.com/en/ via S. Spirito 58R

Local Market:

After all this shopping, we stopped for a caffeine boost at a café on Piazza Santo Spirito where a market takes place every morning. From clothing to hardware to vegetables, the tables were full of hidden treasures that are sold to the Oltrarno locals. I jumped right in and found a beautiful vintage scarf for a few euros and Patti got a lovely leather bag for less than 20 euros. We also bought some figs to take back to the ARBNB, which were the most amazing figs I have ever tasted. When in Florence, take time to go to a local market and explore.

Whether you want to take a tour to meet and watch the artists create or just want to wander the Oltrarno on your own, sticking your head into any shop that catches your interest, don’t miss this special experience in Florence. Most artists will welcome your interest and explain their artistic process if they have time. They will certainly appreciate your purchases to help support their efforts. Enjoy the journey!