Travel Tips | Paris Public Transportation

There is SO much to see and do in Paris that you should put together a plan for your transportation needs BEFORE you arrive. Oh, and pack your most comfortable shoes because walking is the easiest way to get around Paris. What I love so much about seeing Paris by foot is that you never know what you may find around every corner-a musician, street art, or who knows?? Enjoy the journey!

For our Girls’ Trip 2023, I researched the easiest and most cost-effective ways to use public transportation to supplement our walking just so we don’t get shin splints on our first day! I average about 10 miles a day walking when I’m in Paris but unfortunately, I don’t get that level of exercise at home in Boise where we have to drive everywhere. We are in Paris for a full six days for our Girls’ Trip so, while we will no doubt walk ALOT, we will also want to use the excellent bus and Metro system to supplement getting around Paris. Surface traffic on the busy Paris streets is terrible as it is in most cities. Why waste time (and money!) being stuck in car traffic when there are cheaper and faster alternatives in the form of buses and Metros available all over Paris. I usually only use Uber as a last resort and getting taxis can be very difficult in Paris.

Two Public Transportation Payment Card Options to Consider:

NAVIGO DECOUVERTE CARD:

WHAT IS IT?

  • A multi-use public transportation card (like the Oyster card in London) that covers all of Metro Paris and can be used for unlimited use during a specific time frame on the Metro (subway), RER trains (including to the airport, Disneyland and Versailles), buses (great way to get around and see Paris quicker than taking a car because buses have their own designated street lanes), trams and even the Montmartre funicular unless you want to walk up the 300+ steps

WHO NEEDS IT?

  • Tourists who plan to use public transportation in Central Paris alot and don’t care about getting any discounts on local attractions (see Visite card below for that) 

WHERE DO I BUY?

  • Purchase the Navigo Decouverte card at any Metro, RER station or the airport at the Billets Paris et Ile-de-France train ticket window that normally sells tickets and passes
  • You have to provide a color headshot photo 3cm tall x 2.5cm wide (passport photo size) that goes on the card itself.
  • You have to choose a validity zone when you purchase it. To get around the center of Paris, the one for zones 1-2 is perfect.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

  • 30€ for a week pass which runs from Monday through Sunday plus 5€ fee (non-refundable) for the physical Navigo card itself (no children pricing)

HOW DO I USE IT?

  • At Metro and RER stations, hold the card against the purple reader zones on the turnstiles or barriers to open fare gates. Keep the card against the scan zone until you hear a sound indicating it has been read correctly to validate
  • As you enter a bus, you will see a Navigo reader machine to tap your card against in order to validate your ride.
  • Failure to validate your ticket every time you use it could result in a fine (I’ve seen 50€ fines!) by security officers who routinely check passengers for validated cards/tickets

FOR MORE INFO ON NAVIGO CARD GO HERE: Navigo monthly and weekly travel passes | RATP

VISITE CARD:

    WHAT IS IT?

    • A multi-use public transportation card that covers all of Metro Paris and can be used for unlimited use during a specific time frame on the Metro (subway), RER trains (including to the airport, Disneyland and Versailles), buses (great way to get around and see Paris), trams and even the Montmartre funicular
    • Purchase passes for different period of 1, 2, 3, or 5 days. It is valid from midnight on the first day and ends at midnight on the last day.

    WHO NEEDS IT?

    • Tourists who may only need public transportation for a day or two and would use discount on attractions that come with the card like for the Opera Garnier, sightseeing cruises on the Seine or a bus tour, etc.

    WHERE DO I BUY?

    • Purchase the Visite card at any Metro, RER station or the airport at the Billets Paris et Ile-de-France train ticket window that normally sells tickets and passes. After you buy it, you must write your first and last name on it along with the starting and ending dates of validity. No photo is needed.

    HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

    • Pricing is by day and by zone and ranges from 1 day in zones 1-3 for $15 US to 5 days in zones 1-5 for $74. Zones 1-3 will all you to travel around the city. Zones 4-5 will get you to Disneyland, Versailles and the airports.
    • There is children pricing with this pass. See online site for more details.

    HOW DO I USE IT?

    • At Metro and RER stations, hold the card against the purple reader zones on the turnstiles or barriers to open fare gates. Keep the card against the scan zone until you hear a sound indicating it has been read correctly to validate
    • As you enter a bus, you will see a reader machine to tap your card against in order to validate your ride. Failure to do so could result in a fine by security officers who routinely check passengers for validated cards or tickets

    FOR MORE INFO ON VISITE CARD GO HERE: Paris Visite travel pass | RATP

    Transportation apps

    • G7 for taxis-have used with some success
    • Uber-works pretty well in Paris
    • Paris Metro for subway
    • Citymapper to get around town-I use this app for walking guidance, but it does show other transportation options as well
    • Rome2Rio for transportation to show all options to get from Point A to Point B-my preferred app

    Helpful links below from RATP (Régie autonome des transports parisiens aka in English as Parisian Autonomous Transport Administration), which is the state-owned public transportation operator.

    RATP site Paris Public Transportation PDF maps:

    Top 10 Paris Travel Apps

    I use many different travel apps to help my adventures go smoothly but, with our Girls’ Trip to Paris coming up quickly, I put together a specific list of the top travel apps that are “must haves” for us to use there. I thought I would share my favorites so you too can embrace technology and enjoy the journey!

    Of course, there are many apps out there that are super niche for Paris only but the apps I’ve decided to share are ones that I’ve used in Paris and found essential in the past. The websites for the apps below are included so you can check them out and decide if they will work for you. Then, if you determine you need these apps, download the app to your mobile device to use while you are travelling. Make sure you set up any profiles in advance so you are ready to use (for example, Uber will need payment info stored). Many people ask me about what to do with their phones while they are travelling abroad. There is so much information around this topic that I wrote a separate blog post here My Top Phone Tips for Traveling Abroad – Travels with Melinda.

    GETTING AROUND

    Rome2Rio: discover how to get anywhere is an app that I have used in many different European places and all across the US. My favorite app! You just input where you want to go from Point A to Point B and it searches any city, town, landmark, attraction or address across the globe with thousands of routes to easily get you from A to B. It gives you timetables and estimated pricing for all types of transportation-trams, bus, subway, train, taxi, etc. If you decide to walk, it tells you how long it will take and helps guide you around that way too. In planning a logical itinerary, this is the app I use most often.

    Citymapper – The Ultimate Transport App is a free public transit app with mapping that displays transport options, usually with live timing, between any two locations in a supported city.  Similar to Rome2Rio but very helpful for getting around by any means of transportation from e-scooters to walking to biking to subways. I like this app best for getting around by foot.

    Google Maps can be used to navigate around town. This is the app my husband likes best.

    Uber is great to get around and I have successfully used it in Paris (not the case in some European cities). Check here Uber Cities – Rides Around the World | Uber before you go to other countries to see if Uber is available. I’ve never used Bolt but it works in Paris too.

    RATP for the Paris Metro. This app has maps and train schedules plus it will notify you of delays. Having the app gives you free access to the RATP WiFi network.

    G7 Taxi to book a taxi for immediate pick-up or schedule a ride up to 14 days in advance. You can pay the driver via the app or when you take the ride. I’ve had better luck with Uber getting rides but I have this app too just in case.

    COMMUNICATING

    Google Translate instantly translates words, phrases, and web pages between English and over 100 other languages. I’ve used this app mostly to translate menus.

    WhatsAppI have found that some restaurants in Europe use this app instead of other apps to book reservations. Airbnb hosts may use this vs. text/call. You can also stay in touch with friends and family for free no matter where you are vs. using international phone service because WhatsApp uses Wi-Fi not phone data. If you don’t want to use your cell (usually $10 a day for international use) then just use WhatsApp. You can message, chat and video chat for free. Just make sure whomever you want to connect with back home also has the app and, of course, you will need to be connected to Wi-Fi to use it but it’s free!

    EATING

    The Fork app is for making reservations at restaurants. Availability is given in real time. You don’t need to make reservations for the cafes you will find on every block in Paris but for popular restaurants you may want to reserve in advance so not to be disappointed.

    USING THE FACILITIES

    Toilets of Paris app helps you find public toilettes, water closet or W.C. aka bathrooms/restrooms. This app is available on iOS and android and includes public bathrooms and those in restaurants, where you will probably need to buy at least a drink to use their facilities. Large hotels with lobby bathrooms are great places to go too.

    Now that you’re all set with the essential travel apps, take off to the City of Lights and have an amazing adventure!

    Planning for Paris-Girls’ Trip 2023 Part One

    It’s time to finalize the details for our Girls’ Trip to Paris 2023! We visited London and Florence the past two years on our annual trip and had a blast. Now it’s time to take on the City of Lights. I’ve been to Paris several times, both on business trips and personal vacations, but Becky and Patti will be seeing Paris for the first time. How special! I get to lean in on all my past experiences and take them to all the truly magical places in Paris. I look forward to seeing Paris through their “first time” lens. I predict love at first sight. Come along on our journey!

    For each Girls’ Trip, I act as the trip planner and the first thing I want to know is what is the one “must see” for each person on the trip. Then, I can research those experiences and work our trip itinerary around them. Here are our three “must see” places for our trip to Paris:

    AN EVENING CABARET SHOW AT THE MOULIN ROUGE

    The Moulin Rouge, which translates to “Red Mill”, was built in 1889, the same year as the Eiffel Tower. It is situated below the Montmartre neighborhood in Pigalle. This famous cabaret show features elaborately dressed yet topless show girls. Admittedly this might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s been around for over a hundred years so it’s legendary and we love all music and theater so this will be quite the experience!

    Show Details

    At the Moulin Rouge, shows run every day of the week and there are 2 shows every day:

    • 9 pm show with optional dinner starting at 7 pm (dinner show ticket holders will get the best seats)
    • 11 pm show only

    Plan to arrive early! These shows are usually sold out so arrive at the entrance one hour before the time of your show. Doors close ten minutes before the start of the show, and you won’t be allowed to enter if you arrive late. There is no refund policy for Moulin Rouge tickets so arrange your transportation and allow, as always, for the Paris traffic jams that are bad at all hours.

    Buy your Moulin Rouge tickets as soon as you book your travel dates. You never know when travel groups will suck up all the available tickets, as this show is always on their itineraries. You can buy direct from Moulin Rouge (Official Website) for tickets to all showtimes and options. If, for whatever reason, you don’t want to buy the tickets there, you can also book through Viator:  Paris Moulin Rouge Cabaret Show with Champagne Only or Dinner 2023 (viator.com) but not all options like the 9 pm show are available on this site. Prices vary depending on the date/time you go but, when I was researching our tickets, they were as follows: $240 euros for the 7 pm Dinner+Show; $178 euros for the 9 pm Show Only; $133 euros for the 11 pm Show Only. I would say this is fairly on par pricing as compared with a Las Vegas or Broadway show.

    Getting there

    Of course, you can walk there or take the Metro aka subway. This is how I prefer to get around Paris during the day. However, you’ll be there in the evening and the Pigalle neighborhood is probably not the best place to wander around late at night. Known for being a tourist magnet, you can imagine that all kinds of folks would frequent here around showtimes to take advantage of people visiting Paris. I would recommend using an Uber, which works quite well in Paris. I have not had great luck with taxi apps in Paris working so, at least for me, taxis won’t be an option. If you do take the Metro, the closest station to Moulin Rouge is Blanche on Metro line 2.

    AFTERNOON WALK ON THE LEFT BANK

    The Left Bank is a special place best enjoyed in an afternoon walk about. First, grab some wine, cheese, fruit (figs if they are in season), sandwiches and a baguette-all at different small stores specializing in their product. Take your goodies to Luxembourg Gardens aka Jardin du Luxembourg for a picnic and people watching. There are benches and tables scattered throughout this beautiful park. Watch people sail model boats on the central pond, which served as an inspiration for a similar one in Central Park in NYC-another favorite place of mine. Then, find the Medici Fountain and take lots of pictures at this idyllic spot. Instagram worthy!

    It’s just a short walk fifteen-minute from Luxembourg Garden to Shakespeare & Co., THE bookstore to visit when in Paris. After grabbing a travel book and getting it officially stamped with their logo inside, it’s time for a cappuccino at the nearest café. Then, take a ten-minute walk from Shakespeare & Co. to the Pantheon (I’m a Midnight in Paris fan!) for a tour of this iconic monument and symbol of the French Revolution built in the 18th century. We’ll visit the crypt which houses the remains of Victor Hugo, Voltaire, and Marie Curie and climb up to the dome to see the panoramic views of the city.

    DAY TRIP TO MONET’S HOUSE IN GIVERNY

    As lovers of art and especially Monet, we will take the time to do a side trip from Paris to Giverny to walk the lily gardens, stroll through the artist’s house and studio, and immerse ourselves in all things Monet. I was there a few years ago and took the pictures above. It was like being in a Monet painting on this lovely day.

    We will wander the fields with haystacks and walk through the house and gardens. The lily ponds in person look exactly like Monet’s paintings-so surreal. Giverny sits at the confluence of the river Seine and the river Epte in the region of Normandy. While the big draw in Giverny is Monet’s garden and home, this village has existed since neolithic times and there is a church dating from the Middle Ages to explore as well as a Museum of Impressionism and plenty of cafes and shops.

    Buy tickets:

    Monet’s gardens are open every day including public holidays from 9.30 am to 6 pm from April 1st through November 1st. Buy timed entry tickets online at Claude Monet’s house in Giverny. They do have a great store there so bring a bag to carry home some souvenirs.

    How to get there:

    Giverny is 75KM (47 miles) from Paris and 4KM (2.5 miles) from the small town of Vernon where the train will stop coming from the Saint-Lazare Paris station. The fastest trains (don’t book a “local” with many stops) complete the journey in about an hour. Book your train ticket from Paris to Giverny here: Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com). You could also take a bus or drive, but we will take the train ride to sit back, relax and see the French countryside. When Giverny is open, a shuttle bus will take you from the train station to Giverny’s parking lot. The round-trip costs 10 euros and only takes about 15 minutes. You can buy your ticket on board.

    If you really want to walk, it’s about 5KM or 3 miles and mostly flat following the tracks of an ancient railroad. Go down the Albufera street and cross the bridge over the Seine. At the roundabout ignore the signs for Giverny which are meant for cars. Go straight on, cross the first street “Route de Giverny” and take the pathway to your right just before the drugstore. Enjoy the journey!

    Europe Train Travel-UK, Eurostar, Italy

    Travelling by train all over the UK was on my husband’s bucket list so off we went in September 2022 after several years of Covid lockdown, his open-heart surgery and resulting lengthy recovery. It was great to get on the road again or should I say “rails”! We flew into London and then we were off to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Bath and then the Eurostar from London to Paris and finally several trips in Italy-all by train. Hopefully, I can help prepare you for your train travels. Remember, enjoy the journey!

    UK TRAIN TRAVEL

    We love travelling slow and looking out at bucolic grassy slopes of cow and sheep grazing on the green grass without the worry of driving in a foreign country. With good wifi, you can also get some work done (me) and catch on social media (my husband) along with the perks of a convenient café car and bathrooms. We sometimes bring along our own food and beverages and grab a table seat on the trains. In the UK, Pret and M & S Food are our go-to spots for readymade sandwiches, pastries, fruit and salads that make up an excellent train picnic! You’ll find these chain shops either in the train stations or nearby.

    After a few days to enjoy London, we boarded our train to Edinburgh, a city I had been longing to see for awhile. I recommend you sit on the righthand side of the train for this trip to enjoy some coastal views along the way. Edinburgh was magical-see my blog on our visit there: Edinburgh – Travels with Melinda

    As with any kind of travel, it’s best to be prepared for anything to happen. On our one hour scheduled trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow, we experienced having to exit two trains due to flooding on the tracks ahead on a very rainy (even for the UK) day. Finally, with no alternative, we quickly downloaded a local taxi app, booked a car and had them drive us the final 20 miles to Glasgow for $25GP rather than be stranded at the local train outpost standing outside during a thunderstorm. We were fortunate to be able to afford to do that but many of the fellow passengers were going to be forced to wait for another train or for the train company to get them a bus to transport them to their final destination, turning a one-hour ride into an all-day nightmare. So, while there are great pluses to train travel, stuff can happen. Be prepared. Technology is your friend. Use it.

    Glasgow to Liverpool was a four-hour train trip. We saw mile after mile of sheep laying in the fields! Wind turbines are everywhere. With an energy crisis due to the Russian dependency, the UK will have to put up even more turbines to support their needs. At one stop, our driver must have exceeded his work shift, so we had to wait for his replacement to show up-about a 20-minute delay. Unlike airplanes, trains cannot make up time if they get delayed. You will just show up past the arrival time scheduled. Build in some time on your agenda for possible delays if you are making any connections.

    Booking tickets can be confusing but take it one step at a time. Research going from Point A to Point B on a travel app like RometoRio, which is my favorite transportation app. There are many different train companies within a country. For our UK train travels, we used Linr (London Northeast Rail), ScotRail and GWR. When you book using their online platforms, the tickets will be accessible in your app and it’s a barcode or QR code. You scan this code on the machine to get into the platform. When you get to the train station (most don’t have a lot of seating so don’t go too early-30 minutes prior to departure is about right), go to the board listing all the train rides and, about 20 minutes prior to departure, your trip details will post with the platform #. As soon as the platform # is assigned, you can go to the entry, scan your ticket and board the train. Most of our rides had assigned seats. In the car, you’ll see red or green lights to indicate whether a seat has been booked in advance. If you want to change your seat, you can go to any seat that is green. Luggage is stored overhead (carry-on) or there are luggage racks in each car. We only travel with carry-on (even for a month-long trip!) so we keep ours in the overhead where we sit. I have heard of luggage being stolen so keep an eye on your possessions! Helpful UK links:

    Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com)

    LNER | London North Eastern Railway

    Train Tickets | Times & Timetables | Fares in Scotland | ScotRail

    Buy Cheap Train Tickets | Great Western Railway | First Great Western (gwr.com)

    EUROSTAR TRAIN FROM LONDON TO PARIS

    I always thought that taking the Eurostar would be totally cool and I was right! It’s fast and much more fun than flying from London to Paris. Hints on taking Eurostar from London to Paris:

    You will leave from St. Pancras international terminal in London and travel 150 miles per hour (224km) for 2 hours and 17 minutes arriving at Paris Gare du Nord station. There is free WiFi on the train and outlets by seats (UK or EU adapters) to recharge your devices. There is a club car with food and beverages to purchase. Everyone has assigned seats-book here: Book Europe Train Tickets and Holidays | Eurostar.com

    Plan to arrive two hours before your departure. We had standard tickets but, in retrospect, we wish we had paid the extra and booked business class to skip the long lines and wait in the comfort of the business class lounges. Next time! Lots of restaurants and shops to check out at St. Pancras while you wait or buy food there and bring it with you on the train. No restrictions for bringing food and beverages on the train.

    Boarding Process:

    1. 90 minutes before your departure time, you are able to queue and start to proceed to scan your ticket to enter the platform. Note: you can scan earlier if you want though the signs say otherwise but there is limited room to sit once you go through so best to just be in queue when they tell you.
    2. After scanning ticket to go through the gate, you then go through security. Everything goes in the trays. No need to take off shoes or separate liquids  Just backpack/purse/anything in your pockets in one tray and luggage in another. You will have to take off coat or jacket and put in try as well. Saw someone put their coffee cup in a tray as well.
    3. After security, then you go through passport control stations. First show passport (no need to show ticket) to UK control and then you have to show passport to EU control. Then, put away your passport. You won’t need to show again when you arrive in Paris.
    4. Try to find a seat to wait. Good luck-seats are limited! Your platform # will be announced 20 minutes prior to departure and the masses will all move to a moving sidewalk that goes up to the platform. Watch for people holding signs for where you go based on your seat.

    For really in depth Eurostar details, check out this site: https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/london-to-paris-by-eurostar.htm#check-in-london

    ITALY TRAIN TRAVEL

    Within Italy, we took the train from Florence to Venice for a weekend and also day trip to Lucca and finally train to Rome to end our trip. Please don’t think about driving in Italy. The roads are as narrow as the drivers are crazy. Just being a passenger in a car in Italy is stressful!

    Arriving in Rome, the Roma Termini is a massive transportation hub. From there, you can use the metro system, buses and trams to get around the city or, even better, walk!

    Pay a little more and get the Executive Club seats on the train. On our train from Florence to Rome, they even had private salons that had sliding doors to close for privacy. Great for families that need 4 seats. Make sure you know where the bathrooms are and don’t book a seat by them. Trust me. You do not want the toliet traffic or smell.

    Also with Executive Club, you get to wait in the lounge. In Florence, this is really important because there is no place to sit for anyone and only pay public toliets. Now in Venice, the station has adequate seating especially in the upper food court  Florence needs to add a second floor! The lounge has a coffee machine and packages snacks and a nice water closet aka WC. Helpful Italy train links:

    High speed train (we took from Florence to Rome): Italy high speed train tickets| Italotreno.it – Official website

    EN – Trenitalia

    Senior Offer – Trenitalia

    Can non-Italian residents get the Senior discount?

    CartaFRECCIA (senior discount) member-If you do not have a domicile in ITALY you can ask for a CartaFRECCIA by sending an email to the e-mail address cfreccia.application@trenitalia.it indicating name, surname, date of birth, place of birth (in case of birth in a foreign country indicate which) , an e-mail address and a telephone number and attaching a legible PDF copy of your valid passport.

    Within 30 days you will receive your personal code, a password to access the dedicated online services and the CartaFRECCIA, immediately active, which will have to print and take you on your journeys when using trains operated by Trenitalia. Shipment of the CartaFRECCIA plastic card is not possible under any circumstances.

    Paris Shopping

    Wandering the streets of Paris and popping in with a “Bonjour” to all the neighborhood shops is a true delight. You just never know what you will find! I will caution you that if you find a treasure, buy it. On my trips, there will be times I see something and pause to consider before making a spendy purchase. I’m still regretting not picking up a vintage Louis Vuitton bag I saw in a little store in the Marais. From grand department stores to quaint little shops to flea markets, enjoy the journey!

    WHERE TO SHOP:

    SHOPPING – COVERED PASSAGES FILLED WITH INTERESTING SHOPS

    SHOPPING – DEPARTMENT STORES

    MARKETS

    VINYL (My husband’s addiction-we buy vinyl wherever we go from Amsterdam to Moscow)

    SPECIALTY STORES

    • Paul Art & Design https://en.paulartetdesign.com/ a little shop at the bottom of the steps to Sacre Coeur filled with fun art design items that you will want to buy. Visit with the shop bulldog terrier (shown above) who inspires many of the designs.
    • Sobral at 76 Temple. Sobral jewelry creations are made of resin, by hand, in our eco-ethical workshops-laboratories where reuse and recycling are paramount. Each piece is unique and colorful. I like these pieces because they are unusual, not heavy and reasonably priced. Wished I had bought more when I was there.
    • Discounted last year fashion at:

    BOOKSTORES

    THE bookstore in Paris to go to is Shakespeare and Company https://www.shakespeareandcompany.com/ which is an English-language bookstore opened in 1951 and located on Paris’s Left Bank. Check on their website for special events such as author book readings. Buy a book and, when you purchase, ask them to stamp their “Shakespeare & Co.” logo in it. Great souvenir or gift for book lovers! The book pictured above was purchased for our granddaughter and will be cherished forever.

    Value Added Tax (VAT) Refund

    If you plan on shopping in France, you need to know about the Value Added Tax (VAT) so you can get some money back when you leave! It’s not that complicated so here are the guidelines:

    1. Must be 16 years old and not a citizen of European Union.
    2. Must have your actual passport with you to get the paperwork from the shop when you purchase over $100 euros of merchandise.
    3. Tell shop owner you want a “VAT Tax Refund Document”. The big luxury stores will definitely provide and fill it all out for you. Some smaller shop owners may not do it but instead sometimes they offer a discount on your purchase. Ask for it!
    4. Submit your VAT refund paperwork at the airport or rail station-go to the website of wherever you are leaving from to find out where the VAT refund office is located.
    5. You may have to drop the paperwork in a box and it will be processed within 90 days OR there may be a staff person there to scan it and process it immediately. Depends on the place. Credit goes back on credit card you purchased it on.

    Paris-Getting Around Town

    GETTING AROUND

    Walk. Everywhere. It’s fast, dependable and free. I typically walk 10,000 steps minimum on any day in Paris and have on occasion done 20,000+. There is no better way to soak up the French culture than by walking the arrondissements on foot. Enjoy the journey!

    METRO/BUSES/RER TRAIN

    One of my favorite moments in Paris was when we were riding the Metro and sat beside a woman who was using her commute time to sketch the people in the car with us (see picture above). It’s these type of experiences you won’t get in a taxi or Uber.

    Paris is a walking city but there will be times when you need to get somewhere far away or it’s raining and then you should take one of the trifectas of public transportation: Metro, bus or RER train. Unfortunately, Paris hasn’t implemented “tap to pay” for their public transportation like the UK has. You still have to buy a paper ticket at the local convenience store or automatic machines at transportation stations. Info here: Metro map of Paris and the île-de-France region | RATP. Video to check out if you are a visual learner: https://youtu.be/Q6PLqFIvqWY how to get around Metro and RER video.

    Caution: you must validate your ticket for subway and RER train in Paris. We saw a couple sitting next to us get a 35 Euro fine a piece because their tickets weren’t validated when security walked through and checked everyone. Being validated means you put in your ticket at stations to open gates and go to your platform. Leaving Versailles today, I checked my ticket after I went thru the gate and it didn’t show validated, so I went to the service desk, and they had to do it for me and then let me back through. Avoid fines. Check your ticket.

    TAXIS/Uber

    G7 are the official taxis so look for the G7 placard before you get in. Don’t think you can just wave down a taxi on the street. Either get your hotel doorman to get you one or use the G7 app. The train station and some major tourist sites/shopping areas will have a taxi stand so get in line and wait your turn. We’ve used Uber more than taxis in Paris. On one eventful Uber trip, we were in the car and driving toward our destination when the driver pulled over and asked us to get out so that he could do a quick U-turn and escape a protest that had popped up nearby. He didn’t want any harm to come to his beautiful Mercedes, which I can appreciate but it was quite the adventure. Leaving the car, we saw the protest quickly catch up to us and, as we ran in the opposite direction, the tear gas exploded nearby. Quite the story to tell when we returned home. Strikes and public protests are very common in France as a means for citizens to express their displeasure at the government. When these happen, transportation is disrupted, and walking is always your best option.

    BOATS

    Everyone visiting Paris has to take a boat ride on the Seine. This can be as quick and easy as a boat taxi (just go to boat stand on the river to get a ticket and then hop on and hop off as you desire) or as long and expensive as a dinner cruise. Choose one but experiencing Paris from the Seine is a “must do” for any first-time visitor. Book dinner cruises in advance on TripAdvisor/Viator after you see the weather forecast.

    TO/FROM AIRPORT

    You’ll be flying into Charles De Gaulle (CDG) or Orly (ORY). Paris traffic is terrible so I recommend public transportation that is not only cheaper but faster. Check out all your options here for both airports: Access, maps, routes – Paris Aéroport (parisaeroport.fr).

    Arriving by train? Then just use the Metro (subway) system to get to where you are going from the train station.

    TRAVEL APPS

    Transportation apps that I have found helpful:

    • G7 for taxis
    • Uber
    • Paris Metro for subway
    • Citymapper to get around walking
    • Rome2rio for transportation
    • FLUSH for public bathroom
    • Toilettes Paris

    LOSE A PASSPORT?

    I hope you never lose your passport, but it happens. If you do, it’s best to be prepared with the knowledge of what to do:

    • Pack a photocopy of your passport and keep in separate place in your luggage for safe keeping.
    • Go to the US Embassy located right near the Place de Concorde next to the Hotel de Crillon.
    • Arrive early by 8 am (no appointment needed for emergencies).
    • Process takes a few hours at best so plan accordingly.
    • No cell phone allowed in the Embassy so leave it at home or they will hold for you while you get business done.
    • There is a photo booth onsite to take a passport photo or even better, travel with an extra passport photo with your photocopy of your passport.
    • Cash or card to pay. No ApplePay or GooglePay.
    • You’ll get an “emergency” passport that day to travel home with.
    • Good luck!

    Paris Museums and Street Art

    There are so many wonderful museums in Paris that it can be overwhelming when you start to plan your trip. How can I see them all? (Hint: you probably can’t!) Which one to go to first? How do I prioritize? Which is best? So much art, so little time. Even after going to Paris several times, I haven’t seen them all, but I’ll try to help guide you on how to choose the best experience for you.

    ICONIC “MUST SEE” MUSEUMS

    • Louvre Museum https://www.louvre.fr/en go at opening time, enter through Port de Lions entrance and go directly to the Mona Lisa-you can see from the picture below that we got a clear shot of her when we visited. You could spend a week at the Louvre and not see everything. Based on how much time you have there, prioritize what you want to see and go for it! You can book a guided tour or wander aimlessly like we like to do.

    SMALLER, “SEE IT ALL IN ONE DAY” MUSEUMS

    • Musee Picasso https://www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/ is located in the heart of the Marais, one of my favorite neighborhoods. This museum is an art-filled oasis in a beautiful mansion with a courtyard cafe. Heaven! What I really appreciated was the pictures and stories about the artist himself. I’ve always enjoyed his art, but I never knew much about the man behind the art. I also love goats and there was quite the collection his goat art on display! More info:
      • The museum collection includes more than 5,000 works of art (paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, prints, engravings and notebooks) and tens of thousands of archived pieces from Picasso’s personal repository, including the artist’s photographic archive, personal papers, correspondence, and author manuscripts. A large portion of items were donated by Picasso’s family after his death, in accord with the wishes of the artist, who lived in France from 1905 to 1973. (Wikipedia)
    • Musee Rodin has both outdoor gardens with sculptures and an inside art museum https://www.musee-rodin.fr/en Definitely plan a visit here on a sunny day so you can walk the gardens and enjoy the fabulous sculptures in their natural setting. More info:
      • While living in the Villa des Brillants, Auguste Rodin used the Hôtel Biron as his workshop from 1908, and subsequently donated his entire collection of sculptures – along with paintings by Vincent van GoghClaude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir that he had acquired – to the French State on the condition that they turn the buildings into a museum dedicated to his works. The Musée Rodin contains most of Rodin’s significant creations, including The ThinkerThe Kiss and The Gates of Hell. Many of his sculptures are displayed in the museum’s extensive garden. The museum includes a room dedicated to the works of Camille Claudel and one of the two castings of The Mature Age.The gardens around the museum building contain many of the famous sculptures in natural settings. Behind the museum building are a small lake and casual restaurant. Additionally, the nearby Métro stop, Varenne, features some of Rodin’s sculptures on the platform. The building is served by Métro (Line 13), RER (Line C: Invalides) and bus (69, 82, 87, 92). (Wikipedia)

    Musee Marmottan Monet showcases all Monet all the time https://www.marmottan.fr/en/ and is the perfect museum for the Monet superfan, which I am. We went to his home in Giverny on another Paris trip-see separate blog post on that adventure! This museum flies under the tourist radar. The day we visited we were one of the few visitors, allowing us to sit (yes-there are benches!) and just soak in the panorama of Monet art. My husband took the panorama shot below of the empty gallery when we got there-Monet all to ourselves.

    OTHER MUSEUMS THAT I HAVEN’T VISITED-YET ANOTHER REASON I NEED TO GO BACK TO PARIS SOON!

    STREET ART

    We love to wander the streets of Paris and look for street art, whether it’s a mural or artistically hung umbrellas. Make sure you allow enough time to see this type of art. Enjoy the journey!

    Paris-Day Trip to Giverny

    If you are a lover of art and especially Monet, take the time to do a day trip from Paris to Giverny. Walk the lily gardens, stroll through the artist’s house and studio, and immerse yourself in all things Monet-an experience you will never forget. Go on a beautiful day and you will swear you are walking inside a Monet painting. Some of the most beautiful photographs I’ve ever taken (with my phone camera-see below) came from our trip to Giverny. Enjoy the journey!

    We visited Giverny in September and it was the perfect day-sunny with the gardens in full bloom. Make sure you dedicate a whole day to this trip, so you have adequate time for the trip from Paris and time to wander the fields dotted with haystacks and walk through the house and gardens. The lily ponds in person look exactly like Monet’s paintings-so surreal. I kept pinching myself that after viewing Monet’s paintings in museums all over the world, I was finally there at the epicenter of his inspiration. I am definitely not a gardener but even I could appreciate the layout and variety of plants and flowers. Well done, Monet!

    GIVERNY BACKGROUND:

    Giverny sits at the confluence of the river Seine and the river Epte in the region of Normandy. While the big draw in Giverny is Monet’s garden and home, this village has existed since neolithic times and there is a church dating from the Middle Ages to explore as well as a Museum of Impressionism and plenty of cafes and shops.

    Seeing Giverny from a train window, Claude Monet rented and eventually bought a house living there from 1883 to his death in 1926. He created an amazing garden, partially diverting the river Epte for these gardens that inspired his many famous paintings of the lily pond, weeping willow trees, and Japanese bridge. His house and studio have been restored and you can wander through to get a feel for how this famous artist lived and worked. Giverny is now managed by a nonprofit Fondation Claude Monet | Giverny (fondation-monet.com).

    VISIT DETAILS:

    Monet’s gardens are open every day including public holidays from April 1st through November 1st, 2023. Buy timed entry tickets online at Claude Monet’s house in Giverny. We didn’t spend much time in the house/studio because it was such a beautiful day, so we were outside walking the gardens. They do have a great store there so bring a bag to carry home some souvenirs.

    HOW TO GET THERE:

    Giverny is 75KM (47 miles) from Paris and 4KM (2.5 miles) from the small town of Vernon where the train will stop coming from the Saint-Lazare Paris station. The fastest trains (don’t book a “local” with many stops) complete the journey in about an hour. Book your train ticket from Paris to Giverny here: Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com). You could also take a bus or drive, but I prefer the train ride to sit back, relax and take in the French countryside.

    ONCE YOU ARRIVE IN VERNON:

    When Giverny is open, a shuttle bus or tram (so cute-we took this one!) can take you from the train station to Giverny’s parking lot. The round-trip costs 10 euros or less and only takes about 15 minutes. You can buy your ticket on board.

    If you really want to walk, it’s about 5KM or 3 miles and mostly flat following the tracks of an ancient railroad. Go down the Albufera street and cross the bridge over the Seine. At the roundabout ignore the signs for Giverny which are meant for cars. Go straight on, cross the first street “Route de Giverny” and take the pathway to your right just before the drugstore. Maybe next time I’ll try walking!

    A Perfect Day in Paris

    I’ve had the opportunity to visit Paris several times and it’s become one of our favorite places. Now, I want to share with you my idea of a perfect day in Paris.

    Our love affair with Paris began with a wild and crazy nine-hour layover in between flights from the US to Lisbon. At CDG, we jumped on the RER train to the Eiffel Tower, walked beside the Seine River, and then hopped back on the train to the airport to continue our journey to Portugal. The sun was shining, we marveled at the beauty we had only dreamed about, and immediately began planning a return trip. Yes, Paris is magical. I hope that once you experience it, you will love it as much as I do. Enjoy the journey!

    On subsequent trips for both business and pleasure, we stayed in various arrondissements and in Boulogne-Billancourt, which was close to the Microsoft office where I worked when I was here. I can’t say any areas disappointed, as each neighborhood had its own distinct personality. In Boulogne-Billancourt, it was like staying in a small French town close to the river and parks but accessible to Paris by a 15-minute Metro ride. Staying within Paris proper was convenient for seeing the top sites.

    If I had to draw from all my experiences in Paris and put together what a perfect day looks like in Paris, here it is:

    Morning

    No matter where you stay in Paris, a café is not far away. They are all good. Take an outside seat, enjoy a coffee and a croissant, and people watch. Simple and perfect way to start the day.

    Wander the Marais neighborhood and stop in any shop that catches your eye. I’ve found so many treasures doing this-jewelry handmade by the artist that I got to meet, vinyl for Thom, an oversized knitted sweater that now has a few holes but that I refuse to part with and the list goes on.

    After the Marais, walk by Notre Dame (to reopen in 2024) along the Seine River perusing the stalls where they sell books and magazines. Cross the river on the Pont des Arts bridge where the locks are hung by lovers. Take pictures of everything.

    Afternoon

    Grab some wine, cheese, fruit (figs if they are in season and, on my perfect day, they are!), sandwiches and a baguette-all at different small stores specializing in their product. Take your goodies to Luxembourg Gardens for a picnic and more people watching. Find the Medici Fountain after you watch kids sail model boats on the central pond that served as an inspiration for a similar one in Central Park in NYC-another favorite place of mine.

    On the walk back to the ARBNB to rest up after many miles of walking Paris, I would plan a route from Luxembourg Garden to Shakespeare & Co., THE bookstore to visit when in Paris. After grabbing a travel book and getting it officially stamped with their logo inside, it’s time for a nap and hydration before the evening activities.

    Evening

    Climb the stairs or take the funicular up to Sacre Coeur to catch the sunset over Paris. Wander around Montmartre and get an original painting by one of the many artists in the main square. (Get a cardboard tube to transport home your unique souvenir.) Grab an apertif at a café.

    For dinner, I prefer a café that is unique or local. We’ve had some special moments at places that are off the beaten track. One of my favorites is Refuge Des Fondues in Montmartre where the wine is served in a baby bottle. Wear pants as you might be asked to climb over the table to get a seat on the bench against the wall. Patrons are packed in tight so don’t go here if you want a quiet experience. Enjoy a reasonably priced fondue prix-fixe menu with plentiful food and booze. I turned down a digestive shot offered by the waiter at the end of my meal and, as to not waste good liquor, he just downed it for me. Cheers!

    Starting at sundown and until 1 am, the Eiffel Tower sparkles every hour on the hour for five minutes. It’s a party atmosphere around the Tower as everyone waits for the light show to begin. Once we were there and there was a full moon shining on us, making it all the more magical. Even after a long day, it’s worth it to go and experience it up close and personal.

    Wander home afterward and get some well-deserved rest before another excellent day in Paris. Then, start planning your next trip to Paris to experience even more of what this great city has to offer!

    Paris-Sacre Coeur and Montmartre

    One landmark that draws me back every time I visit Paris is the Sacre Coeur Basilica and the iconic Montmartre neighborhood that surrounds it. For a perfect day to begin your adventure in Paris, visit Sacre Coeur perched on top of Montmartre overlooking the entire city of Paris and beyond. Completed in 1914, Sacre Coeur is a Roman Catholic church that is free to visit and where religious masses are still held frequently. Inside and outside, it is stunning.

    From the fabulous stained glass and sculptures to the various crypts and chapels to explore, there is so much to see and appreciate but the centerpiece is the dome, which, according to Wikipedia, symbolises the celestial world, resting upon a rectangular space, symbolising the terrestrial world. The two are joined by massive columns, which represent the passage between the two worlds. If you don’t mind walking up a lot (300+) steps, you can climb the Dome for a spectacular view. Note: no elevator.

    Paris is made up of neighborhoods aka arrondissements. Montmartre is located on top of a large hill (430 feet hight) in the northern 18th arrondissement on the Right Bank of the Seine. This area is known for its artistic history and stunning views and was established as a historic district by the City of Paris in 1995. Start your visit at the Montmartre Museum Organisation d’évènement au Musée de Montmartre à Paris (museedemontmartre.fr), which is in the house where Pierre-Auguste Renoir once lived. Other famous artists such as Edgar Degas and Pablo Picasso lived and were inspired by this beautiful area. As you walk around Montmartre today, you can watch painting in action by the many artists with their easels set up on the streets. Perhaps a souvenir to take home and hang on your wall as a reminder of your wonderful trip? We’ve bought artwork before when we travel and love seeing it daily as a reminder of our journey. You can pick up a cardboard tube at local art supply stores to carry your treasure home safely.

    Plan to spend some quality time just wandering around Montmartre. Include a meal at a café in the main square Place du Tertre and walk Rue de l’Abreuvoir street, one of the oldest and prettiest streets in Paris. Walk by, take a picture, and stop for a meal or aperitif at legendary institutions like La Maison Rose and Le Consultat on rue Norvins, which has hosted famous artists such as Dali and Toulouse-Lautrec. Take in the sunset with the crowd at the Sacre Coeur steps and end with a cabaret show at Accueil – English | AU LAPIN AGILE (au-lapin-agile.com), Paris’s oldest bar/cabaret since 1860.

    Downhill (many steps!) from Montmartre and to the southwest is the Pigalle neighborhood, the home of the Moulin Rouge club. Even if you don’t spring for a night at the club (show with drinks and/or dinner), walk by and take some pictures of this iconic Paris institution. I haven’t made it to the Moulin Rouge show yet but am planning to include it on the Girls Trip 2023 agenda.

    GETTING AROUND SACRE COEUR AND MONTMARTRE

    After the Eiffel Tower, this is one of the most popular tourist destinations so plan your visit accordingly. Come at the end of the day for a stunning sunset view or early in the morning to avoid the crowds. Up to you!

    I didn’t take one but there are lots of walking tours of Montmartre: Montmartre Walking Tour: Paris’ Best Art, Culture and Food 2023 (viator.co. Maybe next trip!

    We’ve stayed at various ARBNBs in this area. Our latest stay was at a one bedroom  just downhill in a cozy nighborhood with lots of boulangeries, cafes, and shops. ARBNBs are very affordable compared to hotels in Paris-about $200 USD a night depending on when you go vs. a nice hotel costing $400+. Always look for a “super host” and lots of good reviews plus a great cancel policy before you book any ARBNB. These are ones I’ve stayed at and enjoyed:

    Charming 1 bedroom apartment in Montmartre – Apartments for Rent in Paris, Île-de-France, France – Airbnb

    MONTMARTRE – PARIS – Cocooning flat (airbnb.com)

    Sacre Coeur is accessible by bus or metro line 2 at Anvers station. Sacré-Cœur Basilica is open from 06:00 to 22:30 every day and the dome is accessible from 10:00 to 19:00.

    Montmartre is served by Métro, with Line 2 stations at Barbès–RochechouartAnversPigalle and BlancheLine 4 stations at Château Rouge and Barbès–Rochechouart, as well as Line 12 stations at Pigalle, AbbessesLamarck–Caulaincourt (one of the most photographed metro stations because of it’s iconic Parisian charm) and Jules Joffrin. It is also served by the Montmartre Funicular, operated by the RATP, ascends the hill from the south while the Montmartre bus circles the hill. (Wikipedia)