Category: Italy

Milan, Italy – A to Z Travel Tips

On By Travels with MelindaIn Italy, Milan, Travel, travel essentials, travel hacks, travel tips, travelling, UncategorizedLeave a comment

We got to spend a lovely week in Milan when we visited recently for a Bruce Springsteen concert that unfortunately never happened due to Bruce’s illness. Oh well, disappointed not to see Bruce but it’s always wonderful to be in Italy. Milan is a working town vs. the historically preserved Florence that we had spent two weeks in earlier. In WWII, a large portion of Milan was leveled by Allied bombs and you can see that by the mix of a few older buildings and mostly modern structures in the city core. That the Duomo, The Last Supper, Sforza Castle, and other beautiful landmarks survived the bombings is a miracle.

Here’s a suggested itinerary for a week plus practical travel tips to follow during your stay in Milan. Enjoy the journey!

Day 1: Explore the Heart of Milan and luxury shopping

  1. Piazza del Duomo: Duomo di Milano – Official Website (duomomilano.it)
    • Start your day at the magnificent Milan Cathedral (Il Duomo). Get the guided tour with roof access. Milan Super Saver: Skip-the-Line Duomo and Rooftop Guided Tour 2024 (viator.com). We loved this tour and you won’t believe the views from the top! Pay extra for use of the elevator with this tour package if you don’t love climbing steps.
    • Climb Brunelleschi’s Dome for panoramic views.
    • Explore the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower.
  2. Explore the Vittoria Emanuele Gallerie:  https://www.ingalleria.com/en
    • Opposite the Duomo, spend time at cafes and shopping at high end stores. Under the central dome is a floor mosaic with the Savoy Coat of Arms. According to legend, you will have good luck if you step with your right foot on the bull and twirl around 360 degrees around with your eyes closed. Don’t worry about finding it-there will be tourists lined up to take a turn!
  3. Golden Quadrangle:
    • Stroll along Via Monte Napoleone and Via Alessandro Manzoni.
    • Window shop at luxury boutiques like LV, Fendi, Armani, and Gucci. If you are a serious shopper, make an appointment in advance.
    • Visit the High Line Outlet for shopping on a budget (located out of town).
  4. Visit La Scala Theater either by taking in a performance (lots of ballet, opera, etc.-get tickets in advance) or book a guided tour: https://www.museoscala.org/en/visit/museum-and-theater/guided-tour-of-the-theater.html. We went on the tour because the tickets are pretty expensive but I’m sure it would be a wonderful experience.

Day 2: Art, History, and Vintage Cars

Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco): Welcome to Castello Sforzesco Official Site | Castello Sforzesco Official Website (milanocastello.it) Spend the day wandering the grounds and the museum!

  • Explore the castle and its museums.
  • Admire Michelangelo’s unfinished sculptures.
    1. Vintage Fiat 500 Tour:
    2. Navigli District-Spend evening wanders in the canals that has lots of cafes and shops. Take a cruise down the canal: Milan: Navigli District Guided Canal Cruise | GetYourGuide. We even had a musical journey with a wonderful sax player entertaining us on our cruise.

    Day 3: Art and Chapels

    1. Santa Maria delle Grazie:
    2. Sant’Ambrogio Basilica: Home page – Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio (basilicasantambrogio.it)
      • Visit this ancient church with stunning mosaics.
      • Explore the nearby Sant’Eustorgio Basilica.
    3. Jazz-Take in a show at the Blue Note Jazz Club famous for it’s musical variety Jazz Club, Ristorante, Location Eventi Milano | Blue Note (bluenotemilano.com)

    Day 4: Brera Neighborhood

    1. Pinacoteca di Brera neighborhood:

    Day 5: Parks, Museum, and Cemetery

    1. Parco Sempione:
      • Relax in this beautiful park near Sforza Castle.
      • Visit the Arch of Peace (Arco della Pace).
    2. Monumental Cemetery https://monumentale.comune.milano.it/
    3. Leonardo Museum https://www.leonardo3.net/en/

    Day 6+: Day Trips

    If you have the time, Milan is the perfect hub to take day trips from, so off you go on your own to the train station (about one hour trip if you get the express-$8 euro each way) or get a guided bus tour at Day Trips from Milan | GetYourGuide.  Popular choices are to visit Lake Como but be prepared for an 11 hour day to/from on a bus with stops along the way and a boat cruise.

    Vareena: We went to Vareena for the day by train from Milan. Buy your tickets for the train online. Leaves from main station, Milano Centrale. When you arrive in Vareena, walk down to the water and take the trail along the lake that leads to shops/cafes with great views of the harbor. As the masses exit the train, they headed right for the ferry to take a boat ride across Lake Como. We walked instead and waited for the next ferry (they come every 30 minutes or so). Buy a ticket at the standby the ferry dock ($9 euros per person round trip from Vareena to Bellagio) and wait in line. Grab a seat on the top (outside or inside seats) and prepare to enjoy the view and relax. You can just ride over and stay on the boat to ride back or you can get off and walk about Bellagio and take a later ferry back.

    Remember to savor Italian cuisine especially the risotto dishes, indulge in gelato, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere of Milan!

    TRANSPORTATION IN MILAN

    • The car traffic is heavy in Milan so allow lots of time to get where you want to go, even with taxis able to take the bus lane. We stayed at a hotel out of the city near San Siro Stadium (to see the Bruce concert that didn’t happen) so we ended up taking a lot of taxis when we couldn’t use the bus/subway combo to get somewhere. The buses/subways are well used so be prepared to stand and be packed in with people. The trolleys are cute and can get you around the city core. One day we just hopped on one near Sforza Castle and rode it all the way around town. You tap to pay to take all public transportation-the machine is on the bus/trolley, or you tap to get through the gate into the subway.
    • You will see A LOT of graffiti on buildings in Milan. Not street art but random writing on buildings. The landmarks are not tagged or, if they are, they clean them up, but most other buildings are defaced. Life in an urban environment!
    • Flying in and out of Milan-there is an international airport (Malpensa) and a local airport (Linate) on opposite ends of town. Make sure to specify which one you want to go to. If you have any VAT to apply for, you must get your receipts (given to you by the store you bought at) BEFORE you go through security. Then, on the other side of security, you will see an office for “tax refund” and you take your paperwork there to get the VAT refund. We learned the hard way and did not get the required stamp and didn’t want to go back so we just left without it despite Thom shopping his way through the swanky Milan men’s boutiques.

    Many of the smaller airports don’t have gates attached to terminal so you board buses to get to and from the plane to the terminal. Make sure you are able to carry your luggage and do stairs up and down to get on planes. Otherwise, use only larger airports. Florence’s airport and Milan’s Linate airports both use buses for some flights.

    CURRENCY

    Italy uses the euro. Bring a coin purse because you will get a lot of coins as change. Only bills are 5, 10, 20, etc. The coins are 1, 2 and all under 1. I started using a baggie, but it looked so tacky I bought a small coin bag in Florence.

    RESTROOMS

    You need to have a few 1 and 50 cent coins with you at all times to get into public bathrooms, which are usually clean and some even have attendants. Bring tissues with you too as toilet paper can be scarce. Also, hand sanitizer is a must have.

    If there aren’t public bathrooms, go to a big busy cafe or department store where they can’t track all patrons and go right through to the bathroom. Don’t ask permission. The main attractions will all have bathrooms, but most will be located past entry if there is an entry fee.

    FOOD

    • Milan is known for their risotto (northern Italy) vs. pasta (southern Italy). The classico Milanese risotto version has saffron, and cheese and it is delicious. I wanted to lick the plate clean.
    • Don’t worry-gelato is everywhere in Italy. There are also exquisite pastries in the shops so when you need that espresso to keep you going, there are sweet treats to enjoy as well.
    • Aperitivo starts early afternoon until about 7 and dinner starts at 8-restaurants don’t even open until then so have a late lunch. You’ll get snacks with a spritz, usually olives, chips, nuts so you won’t be starving when you get your meal at 9 pm.
    • Cafes in the Galleria looked like a great place (expensive) to get a drink or bite, and people watch.
    • Pistachios are a big thing all over Italy. Pistachios are included in croissants, cannolis, gelato, etc.

    DRESS

    • Since Milan is the Italian capital of fashion, finance, and industry, you will see men dressed well, usually during the day in suits. Women are styled from head to toe as well. Tourists do stand out here, wearing lots of resort wear in June, when we were there. Lots of bright print dresses and shorts. I always wear black when I travel so I looked very urban by comparison. What you wear is up to you. Just wear comfortable shoes! Every time I saw a woman in pointed toe heels, I shook my head in amazement. How do they walk in those, let alone on cobbled streets???
    • Men in their fine suits don’t wear socks with their Italian loafers. Why? Maybe they want to show their ankles? I need to know.
    • Handbags are important here. At dinner, the well-styled couple next to us went to the manager and got a stool for her large designer handbag so it would not have to rest on the floor. Still not enough, the gallant gentleman put a cloth napkin on the stool before the handbag was placed. I was then also given a stool for my $25 Amazon travel bag, which has rested on floors all over the world. When in Italy!

    Galileo Museum in Florence

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Galileo Museum, Italy, Museum, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

    You will leave the Galileo Museum in Florence in awe of the immense body of work this one human attained during his lifetime. This museum not only highlights all his accomplishments but also provides insight into his personal life as well. We got the audio guide to help guide us through all the exhibits from astronomy to medical to architecture and more. Galileo was constantly inventing and learning. This hidden gem in back of the Uffizi with great views of the River Arno is definitely worth a visit.

    Galileo (1564-1642) was an astronomer, inventor, physicist, engineer and mathematician. What a mind! Living during a time where science was viewed with skepticism and often judged as being in opposition to religious beliefs in very Catholic Italy, Galileo managed to alienate the Pope of that time. Oops! He was tried by inquisition for heresy and forced to live the rest of his life under house arrest. However, he used this seclusion as time to continue his life’s work, which is on display and celebrated in this museum.

    You enter the museum and have a chance to see all the astronomical instruments he and others invented to enable scientific observations of celestial objects. His collection of telescopes is featured in one room and in another the microscopes he created. Of course, his inventions were appropriated at one point for military uses, for example enabling better navigation with his compasses. 

    I won’t begin to provide all the biographical details about Galileo, but you can read more about him here: Galileo Galilei – Wikipedia OR you could just start planning a trip to Florence so you can experience Galileo’s life in person at this wonderful museum!

    VISIT:

    You can buy your tickets online at https://www.museogalileo.it/en/ or at the door. This is not like the Uffizi, which is on every tourist’s list, so the lines are not long to get in. When we visited, there were local children school groups taking tours but, in general, the museum was not crowded. Enjoy the journey!

    Visiting Sforza Castle in Milan

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Italy, Milan, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

    Every first Sunday of the month, Sforza Castle in Milan throws open their very large gates and welcomes all in for FREE. We were planning to go on another day during our recent stay in Milan, but I saw this and we rearranged our agenda to take advantage of free admission, which meant more $$ with which to shop. Thom went on an Italian shopping spree, so we needed to save where we could in order to afford more man jewelry, scarves, vests, collarless shirts and the list goes on. But back to the castle. which is enormous and houses an amazing museum filled with art, sculptures, tapestries, medieval weapons-something for everyone. There were even unfinished Michelangelo sculptures that we somehow missed in our wanderings. This place is HUGE!

    We started our adventure by walking throughout the outside areas and imagining how life would have been living and working at the castle back in the 15th century. There has been lots of renovations over the years and as is always ongoing at a site this old. After strolling around outdoors, we dived into the museum. In the summer, go when it is cool in the mornings because these old structures don’t have central air or any air really and it gets hot fast. With so much to see inside, plan ahead to arrive early so you can spend at least a few hours in the museum soaking it all in. I would recommend getting the audio guide. There are English signs on most of the exhibits but taking a tour or listening to an audio guide is in order for such a vast assortment of exhibits.

    Interestingly, we observed from the convenient onsite cafe that there were just as many locals taking advantage of the free admission as there were obvious tourists. When in Milan, enjoy the journey!

    HISTORY:

    We didn’t take a guided tour of the castle but there is so much history that I would recommend taking one if you have time. Short recap according to Castello Sforzesco – Wikipedia:

    The Castello Sforzesco (Italian for “Sforza’s Castle”) is a medieval fortification located in Milan, Northern Italy. It was built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan, on the remnants of a 14th-century fortification. Later renovated and enlarged, in the 16th and 17th centuries it was one of the largest citadels in Europe. Extensively rebuilt by Luca Beltrami in 1891–1905, it now houses several of the city’s museums and art collections.

    VISIT INFO:

    Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco): Welcome to Castello Sforzesco Official Site | Castello Sforzesco Official Website (milanocastello.it) The castle is centrally located in Milan so you can wander after your visit and find cafes and shopping nearby. There are also trams that go right by the fountain in front of the castle if you want to hop on and tour around Milan.

    • Free entrance to courtyards 7 – 19.30.
    • Free admission to entire complex including museum every first and third Tuesday from 2 p.m. and every first Sunday of the month.
    • Castello Sforzesco Museums: Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5.30 p.m. (last ticket at 4.30 p.m.; last admission to each individual Museum/section at 5 p.m.)
    • The Museums are closed on Mondays and these holidays: 25 December, 1 January, 1 May
    • You can book online or buy your ticket at the Castle Museum Ticket Office. Ticket office hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4.30 pm. The purchase must also be made for free holders (including children under 18 years of age).
    • Full ticket € 5.00; reduced ticket € 3.00 (18-25 years and over 65).
    • Audio guide € 5.00, on sale at the Bookshop.
    • Every weekend at 11 a.m. guided tours of the Museums without reservation: on Saturdays in English, on Sundays in Italian. Single rate €17 (including ticket to the Museums), meeting at 10.45 a.m. at the Info point.

    Santa Maria Novella-Florence

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Europe, Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips, travelling1 Comment

    While it might not make your agenda if you only have a few days in Florence, if you are lucky enough to have a week or two, then Santa Maria Novella is worth your time to check out. You can visit the church in its entirety, including the frescoed chapels, the sacristy and Avelli cemetery. Highlights include the Cloister of the Dead, the Green Cloister, the Spanish Chapel, the Ubriachi Chapel and the Refectory. Admire the Masaccio Trinity, Giotto’s crucifix, Brunelleschi’s crucifix, Cappella Tornabuoni (painted by Ghirlandaio), and frescoes by Filippino Lippi, Nardo di Cione, Piero da Miniato and Botticelli. There is gorgeous art everywhere you look!

    Completed around 1420, like many other Florence historic institutions, Santa Maria Novella suffered extreme damage in the 1966 floods. While most of the interior was restored, there are outdoor frescoes in the burial cloisters that still show the damage. While no one seriously famous is buried here, there are burial monuments everywhere for wealthy and important Florentines of the past. 

    In the museum, one art piece, The Last Supper, really stood out to me for it’s vibrant colors and the artist’s story. I saw the famous fresco by Leonardo da Vinci in Milan and this version is totally different. As you go through all the cathedrals and museums in Florence, it’s no secret that the Italian Renaissance was THE influential period in art history, but it was totally dominated by male artists like da Vinci, Michaelangelo and Raphael. Any woman??  Any??? Well, Sister Plautilla Nelli (1524-1588) a Dominican nun not only painted her version of famous religious scenes like The Last Supper in the convent, but she founded an all-woman art workshop within her convent and taught other nuns how to paint. They generated income and took on art commission work by wealthy private citizens in Florence. In the 1500s!

    VISIT

     It’s only 7.5 euros to wander through and soak in the basilica, the cloisters, the museum-really, it just kept going on and on. Plan a few hours to enjoy it all-they offer free guided tours by locals and audio guides too. Make sure to check the online site How can I visit Santa Maria Novella? | Santa Maria Novella (smn.it) for current visiting hours.

    Florence’s Jewish Synagogue and Museum

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips, travelling, Uncategorized1 Comment

    We are always on the lookout for hidden gems that are off the beaten path when we travel. In Florence, we took the time to tour the Synagogue and Jewish Museum, which may not be on all tourists’ agendas, but we really enjoyed our visit there. Be sure to save time to eat at one of the nearby kosher restaurants too!

    Opened in 1882, this beautiful Synagogue is the heart of Florence’s Jewish community. Surrounded by a lush garden, the synagogue’s architectural details not to be missed include exotic style with Moorish, Romanesque and Byzantine elements combined. We got the audio tour and learned all about the history behind the building. The museum is a superb collection of historical items of Jewish art. Allow about two hours at least to take it all in.

    The impressive exterior with white travertine and pink limestone, together with the central dome and the copper-clad side towers, is an iconic Florence landmark that is the heart and soul of the city’s Jewish life. Whatever religion you follow or none at all, it is always interesting to experience all sides of the cities you visit. Enjoy the journey!

    VISIT

    Check online before you go as the opening days/time change with the seasons: Synagogue and Jewish Museum in Florence | Jewish Florence. We were given a locker to secure our bags before we entered and were allowed to bring in our phones so we could take pictures (no flash). They ask for men to wear the headcover provided. To be respectful, please adhere.

    Fried artichoke
    Cheses zucchini fritters and salad

    We have eaten at Ba Ghetta in Rome known for their delicacy, the fried artichoke. Sadly, they weren’t open yet when we were there (restaurants usually close between lunch and dinner that starts around 8 pm). Luckily, Ruth’s cafe across the street was open and served us a tasty fried artichoke and cheese zucchini fritters. Neither of these fantastic foods are available back home in Idaho. Enjoy the journey!

    Fiesole-Day Trip from Florence

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tipsLeave a comment

    A visit to the mystical village of Fiesole, just three miles up the hill overlooking the Arno valley, is the perfect day trip from Florence. To get a feel for Roman times in Tuscany, wait for good weather and, after a 20-minute bus ride, you can take in the breathtaking views and wander around an amazingly well-preserved Etruscan-Roman archaeological area dating back to the beginning of the 11th millennium B.C. Once a fierce rival of Florence, this beautiful location became valued by Florentines who wanted an estate with a view. Who wouldn’t want to live on top of a lush hill with superb views? Count me in!

    A blend of Etruscan presence and Roman occupation, there is an outstanding Roman amphitheater that is still used for theatrical and musical performances. Walk the grounds behind the amphitheater to explore Roman baths and Etruscan walls and temples discovered in the 1800s and take in the sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside, which is why the Romans must have wanted this prime hilltop location. From Fiesole, you could see any enemies approaching AND keep dry from the Arno River flooding, which it does on occasion with devastating consequences.

    The city’s Civic Archaeology Museum is located within the site. For just $10 euros, you can visit both the site and museum. What is absolutely crazy is the lack of tourists taking advantage of this experience. Within the museum, you’ll find the Antiquarian Costantini, a special collection of over 150 pieces of ceramics from ancient Greece and Etruria. Seriously, there were maybe 2-5 people in the whole museum when we were there. The replicas are from the Romans, Etruscans and Lombards, who all occupied this key hill in Tuscany at various times. So many levels of history here to enjoy. Also, within the archaeological grounds is Caffe Teatro, which has food and snacks with full bar to take a respite with a view. And there are bathrooms!

    If you have time, walk uphill from the architecture site and village square to visit the monastic complex. The whole complex is a sacred space…with a million-dollar view! The interior of the church is worth a visit with beautiful artwork to admire. Fun fact-Leonardo da Vinci first experimented with the concept of flight from this very hilltop town. There is also the Museo Bandini across the street from the archaeological area. Entry to the museum can be included as a combo ticket with the Archaeological area and museum. This is the home of paintings from the 12th-14th centuries. So much to see in this little village!

    We visited Fiesole in late May, and they were just setting up the amphitheater for the Estate Fiesolana summer event. Next visit to Florence (and there will certainly be at least one!) we may have to time it differently so we can take in this unique experience. We will have to bring seat cushions though for those stone slab seats-ouch.

    Getting There:

    Hop on the #7 bus by the Santa Maria Novella train station. Get off when you arrive at Fiesole’s main square, Piazza Mino. Go directly across the street, past the Cathedral of St. Romulus (You must cover your bare shoulders/knees as usual in sacred spaces.) Visit the cathedral if it’s open-it wasn’t when we visited) and you will see the entrance to the archaeological site. Enjoy the journey!

    Florence River Cruise

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips1 Comment

    Float down the River Arno under the most beautiful bridges in Florence while being serenaded by a truly fantastic violinist? Yes, please! The River Arno in Florence is not an especially busy waterway but there are a few cruises you can enjoy from the Venice-style gondolas to the electric party boat that we took complete with entertainment!

    While the boats cruise at various times throughout the day and early evening, I booked the latest time available, around sunset. We were able to admire this beautiful city from a unique perspective during the “golden hour”. Checking out the location of the boat launch the day before our cruise, so we weren’t wandering around looking for it on the day of the cruise, we walked from our apartment in the Oltrarno to the landing just past the Uffizi. The boat was pretty basic with some chairs in the shade and no refreshments served on board-strictly BYOB. I booked it through the Get Your Guide app here. For only $38 euros, this 50-minute cruise complete with a live violin concert was a bargain!

    You will definitely want to take videos/photos on this cruise. Floating under the Ponte Vecchio bridge was the highlight. As you drift by and can see all the details of this medieval icon of Florence, you will notice the various shops jutting out this way and that. What a view to have from a retail store! It’s an amazing structure to see from a distance but very special to see up close from underneath.

    Because you definitely want great weather for a river cruise, I appreciate the Get Your Guide’s cancel policy, which allows you to cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. So, you can book in advance, watch the weather, and cancel/reschedule if there is rain in the forecast. We were lucky-no rain! Make sure you bring some euros to tip the musician-they depend on it. Our violinist also had a QR code to scan and donate directly to him if you didn’t have cash plus he had some CDs to buy-wish I had purchased one!! Guess I’ll just have to go back to Florence and take another cruise. Enjoy the journey!

    Siena Day Trip from Florence

    On By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Europe, Florence, Italy, Siena, Travel, travel hacks, travel tips, travelling1 Comment

    Not that there aren’t endless things to do in Florence but if you are lucky enough to be there for a few weeks as we were recently, you can afford one day to travel outside the city and explore the Tuscan countryside. In the past, we enjoyed a day trip to Lucca, riding a bike around the top of the wall, walking the quaint streets, and enjoying the local cuisine. This time, we decided to visit Siena after many friends recommended it. Why go to Siena? To soak in the stunning Gothic architecture, Italian ambience, wander the steep medieval streets, and sit at a café to enjoy the delicious food and drink.

    Siena is situated between Rome and Florence on what was the only major road in the past before trains. This location made it an important stopover and the 1300s were the golden years for Siena. After you arrive in Siena, make your way to the Piazza del Campo and the Torre del Mangia, which is the dominant landmark in Siena. As in most Italian towns, the piazza is the heart and soul of the city. People meet here for events, games and socializing. This piazza is also home to Siena’s famous bareback horse race, the Palio de Siena, which is held twice a year. Ten neighborhoods aka Contradas (out of 17+) are selected to have riders in this race and each Contrada has its own banner. Crashes are frequent in this barely 90 second race. The prize is a banner of the Virgin Mary, not cash. The day we were in the piazza, there were local high school students practicing their art by drawing free portraits. Thom and I both took advantage of this special experience. How fun!

    While you are in the square, visit the Palazzo Pubblico, the city hall, and within that, the Museo Civicio, the civic museum, which houses a famous fresco called ‘Allegory of Good and Bad Government’, dating to the 14th century when it was commissioned by the secular government rather than the church – very unusual for its time and for Italy. Of course, there’s also a chapel inside with its own religious frescoes.

    Il Duomo di Siena is a must-see if you go to Siena. One of the most beautiful Gothic cathedrals in Europe, the dark green-and-white-striped marble interior and outside the detailed facades are impressive. Walk uphill from the piazza to get there. While you’re there, you can also pop into the adjoining Piccolomini Library, which has a very impressive ceiling. She wolves are the Siena mascots and represented by sculptures throughout the city. Everywhere you look there is beauty and artistry to admire!

    There are many cafes on the piazza to enjoy or walk down one of the quaint streets to find delicious food for much less. Settling in at our outside table that was a under a tarp, luckily as it had started raining, we settled in to wait out the rainstorm and enjoy the local cuisine. So much for that “no way it’s gonna rain today” forecast! Of course, we had left our umbrellas at home-never again do we go on a day trip without our umbrellas! The food was spot on at the tiny cafe. Thom tried pasta with wild boar sauce and my vegetable panini was filled with cheese, mushrooms, and zucchini. We topped that off with pistachio cream cake and espresso. As the rain subsided, we began the long trek down to the train station for our return to Florence. Rolling through the green Tuscan hills was the perfect end to our adventure to Siena.

    BUY TICKETS IN ADVANCE

    You’ll definitely want to go online in advance and buy tickets to the Duomo, so you aren’t wasting time in the ticket purchase line. Our tickets were $8 each and we purchased them through the Get Your Guide app: Siena: Siena Cathedral and Piccolomini Library Entry Ticket (getyourguide.com). I typically use Viator or Get Your Guide apps for our guided tours and experiences. They have a great cancel policy, and you don’t get charged until a few days before even if you book it months in advance. Great flexibility!

    GETTING THERE

    We took the train from Florence to Siena, but you can also take a bus or go on a guided tour that includes transportation (use Viator). Whatever suits your budget and style! Do. Not. Drive. Hard stop. No need to go through that stress with easy options of either the bus or train. Then you can sit back, enjoy the view, and avoid the crazy Italian driving and nonexistent parking.

    The train from Florence to Siena costs about 10 euros one way and leaves around once an hour, with the journey taking an hour and 30 mins. Seats aren’t booked so it’s first come, first sit. You can also have the option to bring your bike into the train and hang it up for the trip. It’s a local regional train so it will make a few stops along the way. Bus trip (Rapida fast bus vs. Ordinaria regional bus that makes stops) is only slightly faster than the train and there isn’t a bathroom on board like there is on a train. You can buy your train tickets at the station or via Trenitalia but remember to validate them before boarding. If you buy tickets on Trenitalia, you just click on “check in” within their app on your phone to validate before boarding.

    Get to the train station at least 20 minutes early. There are lots of shops and cafes in the station. Your platform number will be assigned about 15 minutes prior to departure and will show on your app ticket and also on departure boards in the station. Proceed directly to the train to get a seat. Go through the gates with green signs showing and show ticket screen on your phone to attendant. Go to your platform and board. There are no assigned seats on train to Siena. Pack snacks, water, reading material and enjoy the journey! There are outlets on the train if you bring your adapters.

    It’s about a 25 minute walk from the train station to Piazza del Campo, the main square. All uphill!

    There is a taxi stand right outside the train station. To go all the way up to the Duomo, the taxi was 10 euros and worth every cent. They drop you off a block or so from Duomo. Take note of where that is and go back there to find a taxi letting off people so you can jump in for the ride back to the train station. Enjoy the journey!

    48 Hours in Milan, Italy

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Italy, Milan, Travel, travel apps, travel hacks, travel tips, travelling, Uncategorized, vacationLeave a comment

    After a brief stopover in NYC on our most recent trip, off we went to Milan, Italy, where we only had 48 hours to explore this beautiful city for the first time before our trip continued on to Switzerland. This challenge required prioritizing and careful planning, but we enjoyed our quick stay in Milan, seeing the highlights and soaking up the local culture!

    SITES TO SEE

    The Duomo is the “must see” in Milan. Too often, we have bypassed the hot tourist spots in cities where we visited because we didn’t plan far enough in advance to secure tickets to skip the lines. My husband really hates lines. We were in Amsterdam and walked by the Anne Frank House, the “must see” there and we skipped it due to the long lines. I won’t let Thom forget that! We also skipped the Sagrada Familiae in Barcelona on our first trip to Europe many years ago. Since then, we have researched and made sure to know exactly when tickets go on sale and decide whether we need just tickets or want a tour. This is the tour we booked to explore the Duomo and learn all about the history and it was well worth the cost:

    2023 Fast-Track Private Tour: City Centre and Milan Duomo with Rooftop Terraces (tripadvisor.com)

    Our guide, Victor, was very knowledgeable and kind. He took us from the underground underneath the cathedral where remnants of Milan streets date back to the first century to the main cathedral and then it was on to the roof! One reason I wanted this tour was because you could book taking the elevator to the top and back down again. I have walked up hundreds of steps exploring sights with Thom (Notre Dame before the fire!) but I’m ready to book the elevator when I can. We still have over hundred steps to take during the tour, which was fine, but boy did I appreciate the elevator! I couldn’t possibly share all the information I learned from our guide but trust me, this is a place where you want a guide to show you around. I will share one short fact: they built a hole at the top of one of the stained-glass windows to beam the light onto the sundial in the stone flooring. At the highest point of the sun in the day, it hits the appropriate zodiac sign embedded into the floor. Truly amazing!

    Just want tickets not a tour? Then go here: BOOKING – Duomo di Milano OFFICIAL SITE (duomomilano.it) Times open vary by day and time of year so check on this site to see when it is open. Make sure you wear appropriate apparel (no bare knees or shoulders) or you will be purchasing a paper dress to cover yourself (see pic above). Many ladies were modelling this fashionable look. If you don’t want to buy tickets or take a tour, you can attend a service in the Cathedral for free! Sunday service is in the main cathedral and every day there are four services in the side section.

    The Last Supper is the other “must see” in Milan. Leonardo Da Vinci completed this mural in 1948 in the refectory of the Santa Maria della Grazie church. This has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While you need tickets to see the Last Supper (book as soon as they are available online), you can go in the church and not see the Last Supper anytime without a ticket for free. The gardens of the site are beautiful so make sure to take time to enjoy them too!

    I just wanted tickets not a tour, so I went to the official ticket site, Cenacolo Vinciano, which releases tickets for sale for periods of two to four months in advance. Go to the site and check to see when you want to go and when the tickets will be released and mark your calendars! Our tickets were released four months in advance. They sell out quickly and you cannot just walk up and get in because they are sold out so plan ahead to avoid disappointment.

    Only a limited # of people are admitted every 15 minutes. Closed Monday, New Year’s Day, May 1st and Christmas Day. Tickets cost €10 for adults, plus a €2 service charge. Tickets are free for those under 18 but a reservation is still required and the €2 service charge applies. You must dress appropriately for a church-no bare shoulders or bare knees. They had signs that said no pictures but literally everyone had their phone out taking pictures and the guards in the room said nothing so shoot away!

    La Scala Opera House was on my list to see but we just didn’t have time. You can take a tour or attend a concert if you are in Milan long enough. Check out the details here: Visit the Theatre – Teatro alla Scala Next time!

    SHOPPING

    The Galleria  Vittorio Emanuele II is THE shopping promenade by the Duomo Cathedral. Built in the late 1800s, it features a HUGE central dome that is magnificent. The floor mosaics are gorgeous, featuring the Savoy coat of arms and various animals that represent some of Italy’s most important cities. According to legend, find the one with a bull and step with your right foot on the bull and spin around 360 degrees with your eyes closed in order to have good luck. Did I do this with a crowd watching? Of course, I did and so did many other people while we watched. I love a good legend! Shops are generally open 10-7:30 pm every day. Other shops in Milan tend to close at 5 pm.

    Under the Galleria dome and arched shopping corridor, you can buy top brands like Louis Vuitton and Prada. There are also find many cafes to choose from to eat including Café Biffi, founded in 1867. There’s even a McDonald’s!

    We stopped in a little paper store near the Last Supper site and bought cool postcards and journals with handmade artwork covers. You could see the printing press in the backroom where the loveliest couple who ran the store made everything. I love buying unique items from the artists themselves.

    EATING AND DRINKING

    Having lived in Seattle for many years, I had read that Milan had the nicest European Starbucks so we walked a few minutes from the hotel to find it. Located in a huge historic building, this Starbucks Roaster certainly delivered. With a wide variety of food from sandwiches to fancy pastries to enjoy with your coffee drinks, there is plenty of room to eat inside their beautiful facility or on their patio-both are lovely. They are open from morning to 10 pm. We were there late in the evening around 9 pm and the place was packed! They also offer lots of Starbuck Roaster merchandise to buy.

    Since we were only in Milan for one evening, we didn’t get to check out the food scene but the restaurants were packed-lunch time seemed to run from 1-2 and dinner started around 8 and went until 10 or so. There were a lot of gelato places around-look for the good stuff in metal covered containers not the fancy heaps of brightly colored stuff. All gelato is good but the authentic stuff is amazing.

    After our early morning/first in line Last Supper tour, we made sure to stop at a café in the local area vs. the tourist area where we were staying. The coffee did not disappoint. We ordered americanos (espresso with a little hot water) and it was creamy and strong. Paired with an apple tart and apricot marmalade croissant, it was a perfect way to enjoy watching Milan citizens running to work and taking their kids to school.

    PLACES TO STAY

    I’m a loyal Marriott customer and have platinum level status so they treat me well. So, we chose the Straf hotel in Milan because of it’s super location within a block of the Duomo and other sites in central Milan. With a historic façade, the interior is chic and streamlined throwing off a chic vibe. Our room had concrete walls, floors and minimal decoration. Now, I prefer carpet and cozy furnishings but we were only there for one night so that part was fine. It was clean and the customer service was excellent. The only drawbacks were lack of electrical outlets (none near the only piece of furniture which was the bed). So it necessitated plugging in the electricals (computer, phone, smart watch, Kindle) over by the windows. Just because of that, I wouldn’t stay there again. I’m sure there is some reason for this apparent oversight-probably restricted electrical in this former historic building but there should be an app showing the exact placement and quantity of electrical outlets in all hotel rooms to guide people where to book.

    GETTING AROUND

    Milan has it all-subway, buses, trams, taxis and Uber. If you are arriving by airplane, be warned that the airport is far away from the city and it will cost $100-150 euros to get a taxi or private car service to take you into central Milan. The good news is that you can take the The Milan Malpensa Express Airport Train | ItaliaRail (bing.com) into town. Malpensa Express fares for a one-way adult fare to Milano Centrale is approximately $14 euros. Children are half price, while kids under the age of 4 travel free (as long as they do not occupy a seat). Seniors are eligible for a 20% discount. What a deal compared to a taxi or car service! From the train station (Milan Centrale is main one) you can easily find a taxi to get to your hotel.

    Taxis-we found out from the hotel front desk that because our hotel, The Straf (Marriott property), was located on a small block by the busy Duomo area, only taxis were allowed on the street not Ubers or private cars. So instead of calling an Uber on our app, we had the front desk call a taxi for us to get across town to see the Last Supper. It was about 15 euros for a 15-minute ride and took about 4 minutes to get there once the hotel called for us. Easy peasey! We love to walk everywhere but we opted for a taxi for an early morning tour call to save our legs for the rest of the day. Enjoy the journey!

    Europe Train Travel-UK, Eurostar, Italy

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Edinburgh, France, Glasgow, Italy, Liverpool, London, Travel, UK, UncategorizedLeave a comment

    Travelling by train all over the UK was on my husband’s bucket list so off we went in September 2022 after several years of Covid lockdown, his open-heart surgery and resulting lengthy recovery. It was great to get on the road again or should I say “rails”! We flew into London and then we were off to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Bath and then the Eurostar from London to Paris and finally several trips in Italy-all by train. Hopefully, I can help prepare you for your train travels. Remember, enjoy the journey!

    UK TRAIN TRAVEL

    We love travelling slow and looking out at bucolic grassy slopes of cow and sheep grazing on the green grass without the worry of driving in a foreign country. With good wifi, you can also get some work done (me) and catch on social media (my husband) along with the perks of a convenient café car and bathrooms. We sometimes bring along our own food and beverages and grab a table seat on the trains. In the UK, Pret and M & S Food are our go-to spots for readymade sandwiches, pastries, fruit and salads that make up an excellent train picnic! You’ll find these chain shops either in the train stations or nearby.

    After a few days to enjoy London, we boarded our train to Edinburgh, a city I had been longing to see for awhile. I recommend you sit on the righthand side of the train for this trip to enjoy some coastal views along the way. Edinburgh was magical-see my blog on our visit there: Edinburgh – Travels with Melinda

    As with any kind of travel, it’s best to be prepared for anything to happen. On our one hour scheduled trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow, we experienced having to exit two trains due to flooding on the tracks ahead on a very rainy (even for the UK) day. Finally, with no alternative, we quickly downloaded a local taxi app, booked a car and had them drive us the final 20 miles to Glasgow for $25GP rather than be stranded at the local train outpost standing outside during a thunderstorm. We were fortunate to be able to afford to do that but many of the fellow passengers were going to be forced to wait for another train or for the train company to get them a bus to transport them to their final destination, turning a one-hour ride into an all-day nightmare. So, while there are great pluses to train travel, stuff can happen. Be prepared. Technology is your friend. Use it.

    Glasgow to Liverpool was a four-hour train trip. We saw mile after mile of sheep laying in the fields! Wind turbines are everywhere. With an energy crisis due to the Russian dependency, the UK will have to put up even more turbines to support their needs. At one stop, our driver must have exceeded his work shift, so we had to wait for his replacement to show up-about a 20-minute delay. Unlike airplanes, trains cannot make up time if they get delayed. You will just show up past the arrival time scheduled. Build in some time on your agenda for possible delays if you are making any connections.

    Booking tickets can be confusing but take it one step at a time. Research going from Point A to Point B on a travel app like RometoRio, which is my favorite transportation app. There are many different train companies within a country. For our UK train travels, we used Linr (London Northeast Rail), ScotRail and GWR. When you book using their online platforms, the tickets will be accessible in your app and it’s a barcode or QR code. You scan this code on the machine to get into the platform. When you get to the train station (most don’t have a lot of seating so don’t go too early-30 minutes prior to departure is about right), go to the board listing all the train rides and, about 20 minutes prior to departure, your trip details will post with the platform #. As soon as the platform # is assigned, you can go to the entry, scan your ticket and board the train. Most of our rides had assigned seats. In the car, you’ll see red or green lights to indicate whether a seat has been booked in advance. If you want to change your seat, you can go to any seat that is green. Luggage is stored overhead (carry-on) or there are luggage racks in each car. We only travel with carry-on (even for a month-long trip!) so we keep ours in the overhead where we sit. I have heard of luggage being stolen so keep an eye on your possessions! Helpful UK links:

    Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com)

    LNER | London North Eastern Railway

    Train Tickets | Times & Timetables | Fares in Scotland | ScotRail

    Buy Cheap Train Tickets | Great Western Railway | First Great Western (gwr.com)

    EUROSTAR TRAIN FROM LONDON TO PARIS

    I always thought that taking the Eurostar would be totally cool and I was right! It’s fast and much more fun than flying from London to Paris. Hints on taking Eurostar from London to Paris:

    You will leave from St. Pancras international terminal in London and travel 150 miles per hour (224km) for 2 hours and 17 minutes arriving at Paris Gare du Nord station. There is free WiFi on the train and outlets by seats (UK or EU adapters) to recharge your devices. There is a club car with food and beverages to purchase. Everyone has assigned seats-book here: Book Europe Train Tickets and Holidays | Eurostar.com

    Plan to arrive two hours before your departure. We had standard tickets but, in retrospect, we wish we had paid the extra and booked business class to skip the long lines and wait in the comfort of the business class lounges. Next time! Lots of restaurants and shops to check out at St. Pancras while you wait or buy food there and bring it with you on the train. No restrictions for bringing food and beverages on the train.

    Boarding Process:

    1. 90 minutes before your departure time, you are able to queue and start to proceed to scan your ticket to enter the platform. Note: you can scan earlier if you want though the signs say otherwise but there is limited room to sit once you go through so best to just be in queue when they tell you.
    2. After scanning ticket to go through the gate, you then go through security. Everything goes in the trays. No need to take off shoes or separate liquids  Just backpack/purse/anything in your pockets in one tray and luggage in another. You will have to take off coat or jacket and put in try as well. Saw someone put their coffee cup in a tray as well.
    3. After security, then you go through passport control stations. First show passport (no need to show ticket) to UK control and then you have to show passport to EU control. Then, put away your passport. You won’t need to show again when you arrive in Paris.
    4. Try to find a seat to wait. Good luck-seats are limited! Your platform # will be announced 20 minutes prior to departure and the masses will all move to a moving sidewalk that goes up to the platform. Watch for people holding signs for where you go based on your seat.

    For really in depth Eurostar details, check out this site: https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/london-to-paris-by-eurostar.htm#check-in-london

    ITALY TRAIN TRAVEL

    Within Italy, we took the train from Florence to Venice for a weekend and also day trip to Lucca and finally train to Rome to end our trip. Please don’t think about driving in Italy. The roads are as narrow as the drivers are crazy. Just being a passenger in a car in Italy is stressful!

    Arriving in Rome, the Roma Termini is a massive transportation hub. From there, you can use the metro system, buses and trams to get around the city or, even better, walk!

    Pay a little more and get the Executive Club seats on the train. On our train from Florence to Rome, they even had private salons that had sliding doors to close for privacy. Great for families that need 4 seats. Make sure you know where the bathrooms are and don’t book a seat by them. Trust me. You do not want the toliet traffic or smell.

    Also with Executive Club, you get to wait in the lounge. In Florence, this is really important because there is no place to sit for anyone and only pay public toliets. Now in Venice, the station has adequate seating especially in the upper food court  Florence needs to add a second floor! The lounge has a coffee machine and packages snacks and a nice water closet aka WC. Helpful Italy train links:

    High speed train (we took from Florence to Rome): Italy high speed train tickets| Italotreno.it – Official website

    EN – Trenitalia

    Senior Offer – Trenitalia

    Can non-Italian residents get the Senior discount?

    CartaFRECCIA (senior discount) member-If you do not have a domicile in ITALY you can ask for a CartaFRECCIA by sending an email to the e-mail address cfreccia.application@trenitalia.it indicating name, surname, date of birth, place of birth (in case of birth in a foreign country indicate which) , an e-mail address and a telephone number and attaching a legible PDF copy of your valid passport.

    Within 30 days you will receive your personal code, a password to access the dedicated online services and the CartaFRECCIA, immediately active, which will have to print and take you on your journeys when using trains operated by Trenitalia. Shipment of the CartaFRECCIA plastic card is not possible under any circumstances.