Chinese New Year–Have eel, will travel!

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Chickens and eel and pig, oh my!

Walking by the hanging meat, fish and “who the hell knows what it is” on the sidewalk, Thom and I wondered why there seemed to be an increase in the endless bonanza of carcasses on parade.

CHINESE NEW YEAR-duh!  Coming up in a few weeks starting on 1/30, the entire country goes on holiday for at least a week and preparations have begun for some serious partying.  Let the fireworks begin!

We saw some displays of fireworks in Shanghai on New Year’s Eve but besides the large display by the Pearl Tower, not really as major as I would have expected.  The reason I found out from Fiona, my language teacher, is that they save up their firepower all year to let loose during Chinese New Year because if they shoot off fireworks at their home, it will draw good luck to them for the new year—I hear that more is better.  Also, on the last day of the holiday, I’ve been told that all the firework vendors let loose with their remaining stock and the streets are on fire all day/night with indiscriminate and very dangerous displays.  Locals have cautioned us to stock up on food/water in the apartment and stay inside and off the streets, lest we get a rocket in the ass.  Crazy times ahead in Shanghai!

Chinese New Year is the one major holiday that lasts long enough for citizens to return to their home villages and visit relatives.  Virtually everyone has the holidays off from work and, if you do have to work, usually there is added pay to make it worth your while.  Thus, the buses and trains are mob scenes pretty much for days on end and to be avoided at all costs if at all possible.  We couldn’t even get a ticket out of town on Vietnam Airlines until mid-holiday.  More to come on our upcoming Hanoi/Ha Long Bay adventure!

So all these people going home want to bring gifts, of course.  This is the major gift giving holiday, not Christmas.  I see lots more people actually shopping  vs. the usual browsing and food gifts, especially chocolate, seem to be very popular.  Now, I can get behind some Godiva going home to Momma but eel???  We walked down this street by my office and while some of the fish and meat products hanging everywhere resembled something familiar, the really large fish carcass was unknown to me…turns out it is eel.  Those are big ass 4-5 feet eels!  I definitely do NOT want to be near any bodies of water where these suckers are swimming.  Fiona told Thom that people pick out the best eel weeks ahead of the holiday and the shop filets it and hangs it out to dry (in the lovely smog so it has that “smoked” taste)  and then it goes home on the train…imagine what the public transportation smells like with millions of people with their eels and chickens and pigs, oh my!

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Big. Ass. eel.
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Sidewalk alive with carcasses!
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No need to “smoke” it–the smog takes care of that!

Oranges are also very popular in China as Chinese New Year gifts (and smell much better than eel!) I hear that “orange” sounds like “lucky” in Chinese so gifting oranges, which are sold on every corner, are given especially this time of year.

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Our local vendor where we buy our definitely non-organic fruit.

Many more stories and pictures to come as we experience Chinese New Year for the first time in Shanghai and take off to Vietnam to explore!

Lonely child in Shanghai

Driving back from the airport with our son James in tow, our driver, Billy, was silent most of the way. I knew he had worked a 16 hour day working primarily for my boss who was nice enough to loan him to us to get James. Billy is a college graduate and speaks English so he is in demand. I especially appreciate that Billy doesn’t seem to drive like he has a death wish like most Shanghai drivers do.

As we chatted with James about China and our adventures here, Billy just listened. After talking about our daughter Hannah’s upcoming graduation ceremonies, he finally spoke up with an observation, “U.S. children are much happier than Chinese children.” was all he said. I asked why he thought that to be true. Replying softly he said, “Because you are allowed to have brothers and sisters.” He went on to explain that he was an only child due to China policy and that made for a lonely life.

Quiet settled over the car as we took in what Billy had said. Will this comment help James appreciate that he has a sibling? Maybe not now but hopefully he has now experienced another culture’s sad reality and he sees how lucky he really is to have Hannah in his life. I know change in this policy is starting to happen, hopefully soon enough for Billy to have several children to keep him company in the years to come. Everyone deserves to have the family they want, no matter what. At least, that’s my opinion.

Learning to Live with 24+ million people

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Tonite’s subway commute was a tight squeeze.

I couldn’t find room on the Line 8 train tonight to squeeze on and, believe me, I tried.  So, I waited three minutes for the next one and muscled me way into a car so crowded that I didn’t need to hold on to a pole because I was wedged in nice and cozy—I could have fainted and would still be standing.  My subway commute in Shanghai consists of three trains plus a healthy walk to get to/from work.  While taxi’s are cheap, they are not plentiful during the peak commuting hours so I am getting used to taking the subway along with the 24+ million people who live here.

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Scooters waiting to get off the ferry.

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What’s it like to live with that many people?  Well, you quickly get used to people in your private space.  While you must be very nimble to dodge traffic, usually you are safe enough if you cross with lots of other people (safety in numbers and all) but tonight, in a crosswalk with others, a lady on a scooter came up from behind me so close that she touched my arm and then cut directly in front of me.  Close call but I suppose I should be grateful that she allowed me a warning before trying to run me down.  Thanks, scooter lady!  Have a nice evening!

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Need some pants hemmed–tailor on the sidewalk can help!
street hair cut
Sidewalk street barber.

As I have said many times, the Chinese live their lives on the sidewalks, whether it’s socializing, sewing, eating, spitting or smoking.  You also get used to people taking care of their business in public with trash cans being used by men and also by toddlers being held up by their moms, all aiming for the opening but probably missing quite frequently.   Taxi drivers especially seem to have the need to relieve themselves in public between customers on busy streets and highways.   I’ve gotten so used to seeing these type of activities that I just avert my eyes now and power walk to get past as they do their thing in full view of all who pass by.  I suppose it’s just a case of too many people, not enough bathrooms.  That being said, you also get used to taking your shoes off before you enter your home at the end of a long commute because you have literally stepped in some serious shit that should not be tracked inside.

I’m not judging, just observing and learning.  When in China, you learn to have patience, be nimble like a cat (which you rarely see because they are running for their lives) and appreciate the hard working people who live here trying to make a better life for their child, pinning their hope for the future on their only offspring.  I am experiencing China while being one of the few of the 24+ million here to have heat, a soft bed, a bathroom and enough food to eat.  Believe me, I realize I am one of the lucky ones.

Date Night, Shanghai Style

Dragonfly

I am a true Shanghai resident now because I have embraced the local ritual of a complete stranger rubbing my feet for an hour or more.   After all, life can be hard and wouldn’t everyone be nicer if they took the time to get regular foot massages?  All I’m saying is that there would be far less negativity and drama in this world if there was more massaging going on and everyone’s feet felt wonderful as a result.  Who’s with me?

So to that end, I finally broke down and joined the ranks of the many VIP Massage card holders with the very popular Dragonfly chain here.   The lovely ladies at the salon were so excited when I acquiesced and got this deal where you spend some serious cash up front for a gift card and then get discounts as you use it for massages and mani/pedi’s, waxing, etc.–all those very necessary services that are an integral part of the Chinese lifestyle.

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2 person private massage room with recliners

Their brochure listing the many spa services is a hoot…who doesn’t want a “Happy Landing” massage, not to be confused with the “Happy Ending” massages at other less reputable places…you get my drift, right?  Thom routinely gets approached on the street when I’m not with him by the lovely ladies offering him a quick “Happy Ending” massage, though he would never consider it, of course.  Dragonfly also offers massages that go by:  “Give it to me one more time” or “Double Trouble”, which is a four hands massage–how decadent can you get!  Some other services they offer bear further investigation like the “Playboy” wax job…hmmm…or the “Red Grape Footcare Treatment”, which sounds like something you would get by stomping wine so I’m all in to try it. WP_20140104_016 (1)

Using our new VIP card, Thom and I have decided to start 2014 by making our weekly date night now a “massage night” and enjoy Dragonfly’s services.  Our first  appointment was for the 90 minute hot stone/oil foot massage.  Now, I was skeptical that I would be able to sit still for that long just to have someone rub my feet but, oh holy hell, it felt so good when it didn’t hurt so bad. They also threw in a neck and shoulder massage to start, then put the hot lavender rice pillow around my neck as I reclined in the soft chair.  With little hot (and I mean HOT!) smooth pebbles between my toes and large hot stones rubbing up and down my oiled legs and feet, my spa guy was disappointed that I wanted him to go softer. But after a few screams of pain, he got the hint and took it down a notch.  Thom, on the other hand, privately admitted he was in pain too but was too manly to cry like a baby to his spa gal, though I suspect he shed a few quiet tears.

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His and her foot massages…90 minutes of Heaven and Hell!

We both thought we would have bruises on our legs but today we felt just fine and are planning our next massage date.  Maybe this time we’ll do the two hour “Royal Delight”, one hour of Chinese massage followed by two therapists simultaneously delivering an hour Oriental Foot massage and Head and Shoulder Massage.   Ahhhhhh……Shanghai………Massage=World Peace!

Crazy Stuff Straight from the Shanghai Headlines

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Every time I read a Shanghai Daily or China Post newspaper I laugh so hard so I thought I would share with you some of the strangest headlines every week.  You just can’t make this shit up, seriously crazy and unique to China:

From The Shanghai Daily:

Young people see abacus as impractical relic.” Tell that to the main bank here, ICBC. I saw an abacus in use at the ICBC bank when I recently had to visit to get my pin for my local corporate AMEX. Of course, it took an hour and several people to get it done, F#@% with the Laowai and make them wait as long as possible is a fun game they play here and I’ve been lucky enough to be a participant several times already. Miraculously, after swiping my damn useless card 10 times, they let me reset my pin. I guess any bank that still uses an abacus is probably not known for its speed of service so what the hell did I expect, right?

Monk fruit may lift sales in US diet soda market”. This obscure melon is fuzzy and green but is a naturally sweetened with zero calories fruit. China produces 400 million monk fruit a year so watch your local groceries for “Monk Dew” in the future.

“5 year plan to root out corruption by officials.”. Really-let’s give the officials 5 years to take advantage of the system before they shape up.

Sulfur used to whiten bamboo shoots.” Just another thing to avoid eating in China. The food vendors smoke the bamboo shoots to improve their appearance to sell more. If Train needs to add on to “50 ways to say goodbye”, he should just visit China.

“Frugality drive extends its reach to the grave–officials told to set an example at funerals.,, Even in death, frugality is urged as China lays down funeral rules…Superstitious practices should be avoided.”  They are encouraging tree planting vs. fireworks.  Really?  Because there’s nothing like a firework send-off when you kick the bucket.  Planting a tree by comparison seems a little tame, though with the pollution here more green stuff is always welcome.

“Despair turns to joy for a mother at 60”  She had in vitro to give birth following the death of her daughter.  She now lectures around the country to raise money to support the children but these separations have alienated her from the children and they like their nanny more now, according to the mother.  Sounds like it went from despair to joy and back again.

“Out-of-wedlock kids bear brunt of hukou horror.”   Hukou, their household registration system, is government controlled and allows people to have social welfare and public schooling.  You can’t get a birth certificate if you don’t have the official hukou and ID #.  The story quotes that a single mother would have to pay $54,354 US as a fine to get her out of wedlock son a hukou.  The son said he plans to join a gang when he grows up to take revenge on police and the family planning office.  How wrong is it that a small child is planning out his future life just to avenge the system?

“DIY air purifers proving to be a big hit. ”  Due to the horrible pollution and high cost of air purifiers (ours cost $600 US for a Blue Air) the locals have decided to make their own.  Using a fan and a filter screen, one woman put together her own air purifier.  She put it in her daughter’s kindergarten but the filter screen turned black.  I’m shocked!!!  They are now teaching classes in Beijing on how to make air purifiers. One lady said she is going to improve her DIY by adding a filter screen with a thin sponge to prolong it’s duration.  Or the government could just decide to put some laws into place to regulate coal burning by factories and businesses and homes.  In the meantime, I’ll put on my mask and off I’ll go.

Law makes car seats mandatory for children.”  The law also makes it clear that preschool children cannot be left alone at home.  About time—What year is this anyway???

“Python strangles guard at luxury hotel in Bali.”  The python wrapped around his body and strangled him as he attempted to catch it.  Not surprisingly, “people watching the incident were unable or unwilling to help and called the police, who came but failed to save the man.”  The python escaped.  Note to self–do not stay use my points at the Hyatt Bali.

“Tomb sweepers turn out in big numbers but traffic moves well.  Apparently, the winter solstice is the best day for relatives to bury loved ones’ ashes and honor the deceased..who knew?  Well, supposedly, a total of 1.27 million people knew and visited cemeteries to honor deceased relatives, up 16.8 percent from last year according to this article.   Really–did who paid to have traffic counters posted at every cemetery in China because I am thinking this is a total crap shoot # made up by someone but perhaps I am being too cynical.

From China Daily:

“Man Jailed for Selling Poison-tainted Dog Meat”…he was only sentenced to 10 months in prison and fined $6,600 US for killing 565 dogs with poison darts & selling their meat as food. He should have gotten life in my opinion.

Tricycle driver sets himself on fire…. man in Tangshan set himself on fire on Saturday morning after a police officer confiscated his tricycle”. The local government had banned the type of tricycle used by this guy. Very sad and weird…really want to know why they banned the tricycle in the first place.

“Crackdown to restore order at hospital….China has launched a campaign against behavior that disturbs normal operations at hospitals and affects doctors.” I don’t even want to know what “behavior” is going on in hospitals here that requires a crackdown…scary!

I’ll keep you updated regularly on all the crazy and wild happenings in Shanghai…stay tuned!!!

Shanghai Ferry Crossing-Holy Hell!

Nightly I watch the ferries crossing the Huangpu River as they miraculously dodge the coal boats streaming up and down carrying their dirty fuel. I usually feel compelled to scream at them “RUN!” because there are so many close calls. I look in the Shanghai Daily to see if there have been any accidents but so far, I haven’t seen any reported. Still, it looked super unsafe and I swore I would never, ever, no way, no how ride these damn scary ferries…

So, today when Thom suggested we get home from our walk along The Bund via these crazy ferries, I only considered it because it is a new year and, what the hell, I moved to China to have an adventure, so off we went. Boarding the boat, the bottom level was completely filled with riders on their scooters. It’s a quick under 5 minute trip (yes, they move fast dodging boats) so the riders stay mounted on their scooters so they can scramble off the boat quickly when it slams against the pier to dock. The River traffic was light as we took off, or so I thought, but in reality it had picked up just in time for our crossing. Oh. Crap.

We narrowly avoided that barge but now we were moving fast and the dock was coming up just as fast…I braced myself and wondered how hard would we hit? Want to see?

I think I’ll limit my ferry experience to watching them dodge those boats from the safety of our apartment while I drink wine and recline on my chaise. “RUN!”

Sunday Socializing in Shanghai

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Wandering through the parks, it’s always fun to see the locals enjoying life in Shanghai, even on cold days like this one.  Fuxing Park, one of my favorite places near where I work in Xintiendi, is always full of people but especially on Sundays.  Whether flying kites, dancing, singing, reading the newspaper or playing cards, there are hordes of people having fun and socializing.

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Reading the newspaper posted on boards in Fuxing Park.

We didn’t see any dancing today like we have in the past which was a bummer but there was a band and singer entertaining a large crowd with their musical stylings.  The sax player was performing a solo while another band member banged on the drums to set the beat.  I wonder if this type of gathering is spontaneous or part of a planned program.  Either way, we were part of the large crowd appreciating it all.

All over Shanghai, you see men playing cards (never women that I have seen so there must be some unwritten gender rules going on) and some day  when I learn enough Chinese to ask, I will find out what type of card games they are playing.  I have heard that here most card games involve placing wagers and gambling as well.

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Not sure what game they are playing but it looks intense!

After Fuxing Park, we walked over to Dongtai Lu, where we saw some men intensely playing a checkers-like game,  oblivious to the chickens running around nearby.  Someone’s lunch got loose!  Run, chickens, run!

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Run for your lives–it’s lunchtime!

Shanghai Sassy & Stubborn as a Mule

“You stubborn as a mule, Lady!” Really??? My husband later called the stall vendor a shaman for knowing me so well after a short, tough negotiation session for a jade Buddha I wanted. After the mule reference, he turned flirty and called me his girlfriend and told James that he was lucky to have me as his Mom. Then, talking man to man with Thom, he shook his head and said, “You get to go home with her!” and I’m not sure if he was saying that in a good way or a bad way but I think he respected my sassy and firm style of negotiating.  In all fairness to my new friend, many of my ex-bosses have called me stubborn as a bulldog but, again, I always took that in a positive way, probably because a bulldog is cuter than a mule or that could just be me rationalizing but I digress.

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Our Sunday was spent wandering Dongtai Antique Market (or Diagon Alley which is what it looked like to me–I expected to see a wand store at any time), I bargained hard for lots of cool treasures. Thom wanted a large and extremely heavy stone horse statue to celebrate the Year of the Horse coming up in 2014–got it for 150RMB (starting price I think was around 800RMB).   Thom had a moment of panic when we got home and he wiped the grime off the horse and it changed colors…oops!  It changed back when it dried but Thom is now threatening to put it out on the balcony so it can accumulate smog dirtiness and restore it’s antique luster.

James had a hankering for dragons (probably because we just watched The Hobbit Desolation of Smaug at home on DVD and, yes, it is still in the U.S. theaters) so I negotiated for him and got an intricate dragon statue and a dragon pocket watch as well as some beads and figurines for his friends back home. I also started our Beijing Opera mask collection with the goal to get several and hang on our wall.   They are so colorful and full of emotion.  So many treasures, so little time!

In between shopping, we enjoyed a vendor serenading us and watched some serious mah jong being played. Ahhhhhh….Sunday in Shanghai is a treat for the senses.

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Puppies on Parade, Shanghai Style

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The Dogs of Shanghai know how to strut in style. I am having so much fun seeing what wild and crazy outfits the pooches on the streets are wearing each day. I’ll try to share with you some of the best dressed as I see them so you can enjoy them as much as I do.  Dogs always make me smile but when they are wearing bathrobes, it’s puts life into perspective, doesn’t it???WP_20131225_020

I’ve seen everything from rhinestones to jogging outfits to complete ensembles including booties. You don’t see as many large dogs here but the apricot poodle seems to be very popular and easy to dress up like a doll.  The huge Chow pictured here was hanging out in the ancient water town we visited on Christmas but you don’t seem them that big usually.

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We had to leave our wonderful Vizsla, Izaak, with our daughter in Boise when we came to China. It not only would have cost us thousands of dollars to relocate him here but the whole travel/quarantine process would have been brutal to his health so we opted to have Hannah and Mike adopt him. He likes to spoon and has been a huge comfort to Hannah as she is napping alot now since she is pregnant. All things work out the way they should but we do miss him so much.

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This cutie was protecting a handmade shoe store in Tianzifang Alley.  Sporting the polka dot fashion trend and a Snoopy character t-shirt, he was protected from the chilly weather and strutting his stuff, Shanghai Style.

We are trying hard not to get another dog while we are here but Thom just saw a post on Facebook for a dog needing a home in our complex so you never know…

For those cat lovers out there (James & Thom, not me!), here is a cat gnawing on dried fish cutlet at one of the stores in Tianzifang alley yesterday-yum!

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Fox Not Donkey??…Strange Meat, Shanghai Style

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Shanghai Daily posted this week that fox meat was substituted for donkey meat at Wal-Mart and the customer was so upset that they demanded compensation.  That is SO messed up on so many levels that I don’t even know where to begin but let’s start with the fact that Wal-Mart sells donkey meat.  WTF!  The article stated that fox meat costs less than donkey meat though, which was a real problem for the customer because he was being cheated and, oh, it didn’t taste as good-you think?  How about the real problem is that both donkey and fox meat are sold here to the masses at Wal-Mart, which is revolting and gag-worthy and really something I wish I didn’t know.  Damn, I hate that I read and am too informed at times.   But, there it is, and who am I to judge but now I have yet another reason not to ever meat in China or shop at Wal-Mart, not that I ever did.  And you would think it couldn’t get worse than the donkey vs. fox meat debate, when it does because, after all, THIS IS CRAZY & WONDERFUL CHINA!  BTW, here is the link to the story for more details if your stomach can stand it:  http://www.shanghaidaily.com/national/Fox-flesh-found-in-donkey-meat-package-at-WalMart-store/shdaily.shtml

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HEARTS & HOOVES ANYONE?

The ordinary vendors selling meat in their tiny Street shops seems normal to me as I pass it every day on my way to the subway.  But yesterday, I saw vendors selling hot barbequed hearts and cloven hooves in the alleys of the ancient town of Zhujiajiao. YUM!  Doesn’t everything taste good with barbeque sauce?

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DECK THE HALL WITH MEATS & ORGANS, FA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA!

Then, I saw something strung up between the trees by the charming (albeit polluted) canal in the”Venice of China” water town we were visiting.   Thinking, oh how festive, they have strung Christmas lights, I found upon closer inspection that it was instead a chain of mystery meat sausages and other raw meat festively dangling and attracting flies. DOUBLE YUM AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS!