Shanghai Farewell Tour-Great Wall v4.0

Crooked, sloping, uneven, and totally awesome-steps at the Great Wall
Crooked, sloping, uneven, and totally awesome-steps at the Great Wall

Luckily, I had to be in Beijing this week for business, so we made time to visit the Great Wall one last time–my fourth visit.  After a rainy travel day yesterday, today was blue skies, clean air and cool weather–WHAT??? IS THIS BEIJING, REALLY?  Patti and Larry, our visitors, think we are lying about the pollution in China because since they have come, it has been the best weather of the year.  Perfect time to visit China is late September/early October while the trees are still green, the coal heat isn’t being used yet and the fields of corn aren’t being burned yet after the harvest.  There is a this very narrow window of normality that I am sure all citizens rejoice and revel in.  I know we are!

So, we set out at 8 a.m. for the Great Wall with our driver, who saved our lives not once but TWICE when he swerved to avoid the crazy drivers who had missed their exit and then decided to dead stop on the highway to back up.  Thank you driver!  I was sitting in the middle of the back and holding onto Patti for dear life because I had no seat belt.  Safely arriving, the new Great Wall Guest Center was barely busy with all the new shop areas just coming to life.  They sadly are opening a Burger King in the complex-yuck!

Sharing the Great Wall with our friends, Patti & Larry, was awesome.
Sharing the Great Wall with our friends, Patti & Larry, was awesome.

After the lovely climb to the top on the ski lift, we climbed and enjoyed taking lots of pictures, though we can’t possibly take more than our local friends who can pose for what feels like hours when we are waiting to use the same space.  Get on with it, folks!  Snap the photos and move on.  One couple actually dragged the huge wedding dress to the top to take their wedding photos.  Can’t imagine the coordination or how the bride had to probably change into it to keep it clean.  Amazing what you will do for a cool wedding photo!

SO FUN!  Toboggan your way down the mountain!
SO FUN! Toboggan your way down the mountain!

After traipsing up and down the crooked, leaning, worn steps through several gatehouses, we proceeded to the most anticipated part of the trip–tobogganing down the mountain.  I’ve done this twice before and it is FUN!  The crazy local group who had hogged the best spot to take photos was just in front of us.  I warned our group to wait because I just knew they would stop mid-mountain to take a few photos and they surely did just that.  Thom was screaming at them to move on so we wouldn’t plow into them but we had to stop on the slide and wait them out.  A lovely couple from the Netherlands behind us thought me insensitive as I screamed at the top of my lungs, “GO.  DAMN. IT!” several times but I reassured them that I live in China and locals would only understand this type of communication.  Thom decided to let go of the brake and see how they liked to being bumped forward-the ugly NYC cab driver in him oozed out.  FINALLY, with us and the track workers yelling at them to “GO,GO, GO” they went, smiling all the way having held up dozens of people but they got their pictures and that’s all that mattered to them.

After some bargaining for more presents (Patti is getting as good or better than me!), we started on the two hour ride home-I won’t miss Beijing traffic for sure but I will miss the Great Wall.  There is nothing like it and I will always be in awe that I got to experience it not once but four times while I lived in China.  WOW!

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Century Park Day

I have always wanted to cycle around Century Park and HOT DAMN-Saturday was the day! With abnormally blue skies and puffy white clouds (am I really in Shanghai??), we set out with Patti & Larry to make my dream come true. The bicycle built for four with a little canopy was all the rage in and around the park. For only 100 RMB an hour (300 RMB deposit) we climbed aboard with Thom at the wheel. Now, with his driving behavior (he drove a NYC cab for God’s sake), this wasn’t the best decision as within yards of staring out, I was screaming out in fear. DON’T RUN OVER THAT CHILD! While we could all pedal, we found out quickly that only the driver really had control over the steering and the brake-note to self, learn these type of things before you decide who will be the driver.

Bicycling around Century Park
Bicycling around Century Park

Quickly, Thom found out he was all powerful and I had no control. WRONG! The locals were letting their small children drive the carts instead of taking control so it was Thom vs. toddlers fighting for space on the broad lanes around the park and lake and Thom soon found out that the toddlers wanted to own the road.  Cool and sunny, the weather was so perfect to enjoy the water and greenery everywhere if we weren’t so frightened that someone was going to get run over by Thom. The folks had already pitched their tents by mid-day and were ready to have a full day of fun in the relatively clean air. We stopped by the bonsai park where really big ass bonsai’s were laid out to walk through. We killed two bonsai’s at our house so I have healthy respect for these massive ones being able to live outside in the normally murky air.

Just a short cab ride away, after jumping aside while the pesticide truck went by spraying chemicals on plants and pedestrians alike, we had a very western lunch at the Blue Marlin. Ensconced in an outdoor mall with the usual H & M and Starbucks, we enjoyed the lovely weather eating outside and wrapping our hands around big honking hamburgers. Not me, of course, since I get sick easily and had already experienced turbulence early in the day so I just had a liquid lunch and a granola bar. For some reason, screwdrivers don’t make me sick. Lucky me!

Happy workers spraying deadly pesticides on bushes and pedestrians alike
Happy workers spraying deadly pesticides on bushes and pedestrians alike

Then, adequately fueled up, we were off to shop the AP market. We were regulars now and have several shop favorites where the ladies are cheerful and give us local pricing vs. the tourist markups. I was able to bargain like a mule for Patti to obtain the necessary souvenirs for loved ones back home. Larry had the misfortune to trust Thom to bargain for him for an item. When told how much he paid, I laughed and thus was given the challenge to go buy the same thing for less to see if I could. Don’t taunt a mule-it turns ugly quick. I was able to get the same item for half the price Thom got. MULE WINS EVERY TIME. Larry will never forgive Thom or forget he overpaid. Thom told him to cost average and let it go.  Lesson learned, Larry!

Tired with bags full of cool stuff for Christmas presents for our loved ones, we eagerly went home to put our feet up. If only every day could be foot massage day!  Oh, wait, we live in China (at least for another month) and we have a VIP Dragonfly Massage Card with a big balance of RMB to use up before we move home so every day IS massage day.  Hallelujah and bring on the masseuses.

The Shanghai Farewell Tour Begins

This the hardest blog post I have ever written and I’ve been avoiding it for days.  Because, if I don’t write about it, it won’t be true. But it’s time to face the truth and move on.  Last Friday, I found out that we would be leaving China two years earlier than I thought. It was sudden news and unexpected to say the least. While I am lucky to still be employed, I almost feel like a part of me has died. I have so loved this great adventure in China. The unusual, always fascinating world swirling around me daily, as I walk to work and travel with Thom will be ending next month and I am sad.

Big Plus to Repatriate-spending time with Hannah!
Big Plus to Repatriate-spending time with Hannah!

Why didn’t we travel more? Why didn’t I work less? I thought the first year here would be the time to dive deeply into the new job and learn and create and work harder than ever. Then, I could enjoy more of this exotic region the next two years with plans to visit Cambodia, Australia, Thailand, Taiwan, and other parts of China over the many Chinese holidays we are given. Alas, we have really only seen Beijing, Nanjing and Shanghai plus Hong Kong. We so enjoyed our visits to Vietnam that I know that other parts of Asia would be equally cool. DAMN. If only….

So, while I am thankful for what I have and the experiences we enjoyed, it is a life lesson to share with all that should be remembered. Enjoy the moment. Live in the day and don’t wait for anything. Yes, you still have to plan for the future but you just never know. So, the next few weeks while we have our friends, Patti and Larry, staying with us from the U.S., we will conduct the Shanghai Farewell Tour and visit new places as well as say good bye to our favorite haunts around China.

This week, I had already scheduled a work trip to Beijing so despite the news, we are still going and I will get to say good bye to the wonderful folks I hired and trained here. I’ll get to take my childhood friend to the Great Wall (my fourth trip) and we will scream all the way down the toboggan there-one of my favorite things to do in China. We will find a panda somewhere to gaze at and maybe even hold for enough RMB—hoping the Shanghai zoo has a few since Patti really, really wants to see one and we’ll enjoy eating out on our gift certificates to various restaurants that we have acquired and, of course, the VIP massage card. Patti is very willing to help us use up the RMB still left on the massage account. Foot massages galore!

So, I will hold back the tears and appreciate everything I have been given. I will look forward to seeing my awesome family more often and spoiling my granddaughter, the beautiful and smart Mia, who is the inspiration for our new online business, Mama and Mia, that we will launch soon with my Hannah creating fashionable headbands that ALL the cool babies will want to wear and personalizing baby quilts from Vietnam and blankets from Uganda—benefitting the women around the world who make them.

Most of all, I will be grateful that I have had a chance to live in a different culture and understand that the world is a big wonderful place that Thom and I will continue to explore from our Seattle base. While one adventure is ending, many more are just beginning! Watch out world-here we come!

 

Ikea Gone Crazy Shanghai Style

Thom and I have crossed the normal threshold of courage on a totally superficial level–we went shopping at Ikea Shanghai on a Sunday.  HOLY. HELL.  We’ve been before so it wasn’t so shocking to see the wall to wall people using Ikea as their personal living room/bedroom/dining room but it never fails to amuse. Not a lot of buying but lots of socializing going on!

Every bed slept in by noon at Ikea
Every bed slept in by noon at Ikea
Taking a nap at Ikea is very popular and comfy
Taking a nap at Ikea is very popular and comfy

The Ikea staff was very absent, probably hiding in the back and wishing for it all to be over with so they could clean up the debris.  There wasn’t any attempt made to keep it looking presentable–it was all out chaos and they must live it every day but especially on Sundays when families are off work and looking to spend quality time together enjoying the fine furnishings, numerous outlets to charge their electronics and plentiful beds to rest at Ikea.  Every bed was completely destroyed, having been slept in by multiple people by the time we arrived around noon.  One toddler slept amidst the noise with his mother browsing on her smart phone and protecting him so he could get a quality nap. He looked very comfy and peaceful.

I was tempted to join the family who had commandeered a dining set to enjoy their packed picnic-what’s for lunch???  Once we got to the Ikea snack bar, you could immediately tell the most popular item(s) in the store–CHEAP FOOD!  We kept right on motoring with our list at hand-hangers, picture frames, napkins, etc. which you can score at normal Ikea prices not boosted with import taxes.  We packed it all in our Ikea bags and luckily found a taxi right outside–never again we keep telling ourselves but the lure of cheap home furnishings and ample photo opportunities to share always lures us back.

Family time--Enjoying picnic in dining room section at Ikea
Family time–Enjoying picnic in dining room section at Ikea

The Shoes are Here, The Shoes are Here!

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Red laces and tan leather with wood heels
Red leather accent piece added to the back to "pop" the rear view
Red leather accent piece added to the back to “pop” the rear view
Carved wood soles...a work of art!
Carved wood soles…a work of art!

My handmade shoes finally arrived four weeks after the initial fitting and design and a mid-project fitting of the initial mold.  I was able to take the features of several of the showroom models and design a totally unique lace up, side zip oxford boot in dark tan leather with red laces and red leather back panels and wood soles and heels.  I am in awe of these shoes.  Not only do I love the look but they fit like a dream.  I may never take them off–bury me in these babies!!!  Yan Ye Shoes on Fuxing Road and Mr. Zhao, the manager are the lovely folks responsible for hand crafting these boots for me.  Now, Thom has serious shoe envy so I am sure he will hot foot it over there and design his own soles of heaven soon.  Now excuse me while I take these puppies out for a stroll…

 

Handmade and one of a kind-designed by ME!
AFTER PICTURE–Handmade and one of a kind-designed by ME!
This is the mold they made for the first fitting.
BEFORE PICTURE-This is the mold they made for the first fitting.

Men with Machine Guns=No Pictures..usually

“Stop asking people with machine guns if you can take their picture.  That’s just stupid.”.  After Thom tried to rationalize his behavior while sharing our adventures in Saigon with our son James, he was having none of it and proceeded to lecture his dad sternly via Skype.  Someone’s got to be the adult and that is obviously James not Thom.

Uzi needed to guard the Finance Bldg in Saigon
Uzi needed to guard the Finance Bldg in Saigon

So, lots of people ask what our kids think about us living in China and having crazy adventures.  When it first came up, my daughter was none too thrilled about China preferring I get a spot in London or anywhere else where she might want to visit.  That wasn’t an option so China it was and she was very supportive though will probably never visit while we are here as she is very busy with being a wife and new Mom to Mia.  We miss her terribly.

James is still in college so he has more flexibility to visit us on school breaks and was receptive to spending time in China.  So he has been able to spend months with us in China over the school holidays and explore with us, though he doesn’t find randomly walking the streets to be much fun like we do.  He likes to travel with a purpose and preferably in cooler weather like Seattle where he goes to school and always plans his days with food in mind.  Boy, do 21 year old boys like to eat–all the time!  His favorite activities with us were tobogganing down the Great Wall, sea kayaking in Hong Kong but mostly eating chicken pot pies delivered to our door in Shanghai by an expat online Pie Shop.  James declared them DELICIOUS-high praise indeed though I strongly believe there is no such thing as bad pie (or wine for that matter) but I’m not so picky.

Today, as we shared our fun times in Vietnam, James scolded Thom for his risk taking.  “You could get killed or arrested.  Stop it!”.  Like Thom will stop behaving badly-NOT!  In the never ending pursuit of cool photos, Thom had seen a building in Saigon and wanted to take a picture of it.  Of course, seeing the armed military guard caressing an Uzi machine gun didn’t stop him even after the guard pursued him and told him, “No pictures.”. Most rational people would apologize quickly and walk away even faster.  But, nooooooo, not Thom-he smiled and asked the guard if he could take HIS picture and asked about the building’s purpose. It was a government Finance Building and, no, the guard didn’t want his picture taken.  You think he wants to end up on Facebook or Twitter??  Hell No!!!  Of course, Thom got his shot and it will soon be all over social media.  Oops!

They do like to protect their government buildings in Saigon.  We ended up behind a chain link rope around one building somehow and when we needed to exit to cross the street, unfortunately we found ourselves having to jump over the chain but now it had barbed wire wound through it.  Now, I’m in a skirt and trying not to impale myself on this as I slowly executed a maneuver to get over it.  Yikes!  I think I flashed the traffic passing by but a girl’s got to do what a girl’s got to do to keep on having adventures.  This is also why we now carry a first aid kid with us at all times.  Be prepared is our motto-the worst can and will happen in a foreign country, which makes for good memories and interesting stories to share.  Back to Shanghai tomorrow!

Thom doing what he does so well
Thom doing what he does so well

Fashion Forward in Saigon

Silk dress Marilyn Monroe style with fan flowing out skirt on display
Silk dress Marilyn Monroe style with fan flowing out skirt on display

When you peel back the layers of fashion in Vietnam, you discover that besides the Vietnam traditional outfit for ladies which consists of a flowing tunic with pants, the fashion here varies widely with trendy boutiques offering truly fashion forward choices for shoppers in Saigon.  Of course, you’ll pay to be unique so you better load up at the ATM with millions of Dong ’cause you are going to need it to take home one of these outfits.  Hot Damn, let’s do some shopping!!! Not only are the stores decorated with trendy touches from statement art to  industrial chic with stained concrete floors, steel lighting plus the visual displays make you want to touch and buy their products.  One chic store had everything from b/w Vietnam portraits screenprinted on iPad covers to brightly colored recycled vinyl bags and sandals to handmade necklaces.  Hold me back–my luggage is already too heavy! Lured in by the outfits in the window featuring men’s pants with a studded fly (for dudes who want some attention I’m guessing), this gallery of fashion finds featured garments that were works of arts accented by the dragonfly wire hangers they were hung from.  Very expensive and probably too nice to actually wear  in my lifestyle, I admired the artist’s embroidered shirts and wraps as well as her one of a kind necklaces.  Thom shot off some photos for me while I tried to distract the shop girls because I knew they wouldn’t allow it–sure enough, they shut him down quickly but not before I got a few to share.

Studded fly for the man who wants a little attention
Classic Lambretta scooter on display with fashion art
Classic Lambretta scooter on display with fashion art

At yet another gorgeous showroom, the beautiful silk prints in heavy brocade fabrics draped just right were set off with huge statement necklaces.  I wouldn’t dare buy silk because I would almost surely dribble coffee on it or, God forbid, sweat while wearing it.  Still, I appreciate the gorgeous styles that are too expensive for most folks here in Vietnam.  I was surprised to see as many luxury retailers here with the large showpiece stores-LV, Chanel, Hermes, etc. all are represented here in Saigon by our hotel.  Our last day is today so I’m off to pick up a few more items to remember our great stay in Saigon.

Statement necklace aceents silk print top
Statement necklace accents silk print top

Scooters Rule in Saigon

Scooters rule-they even have their own traffic signal and lanes
Scooters rule-they even have their own traffic signal and lanes

Scooters rule here in Vietnam.  Everywhere and always–they serve as the family mini-van and commuter car.  I have seen families of five on one small scooter.  Helmets required here which is cool to see after the helmet-optional China scene.  I see more air masks on most riders too than in China, though the air pollution is far less.  Ladies ride side saddle, dressed to the nines with their sparkly high heels and crossed legs perfectly comfortable and toddlers hold on for dear life between their parents legs, standing up on the floorboard by the handles.  This is life in Vietnam.

Vietnam's version of the mini van--scooter for 4!
Vietnam’s version of the mini van–scooter for 4!

At least scooters have their own traffic signals and designated lanes on most streets.  You don’t see the luxury cars here that you would in China.  It’s mostly taxi’s and scooters.  Not even really bikes-just a few “seasoned” folks riding old school.  When it poured in a torrential thunderstorm yesterday with high winds, the scooters went into hiding until the weather calmed and then they flooded the streets to resume their commute.  They sell special scooter rider poncho’s everywhere–hood, extended arms and headlight coverage as well.  Still, those poor riders had to be soaked to the bone yesterday with the waves of water coming down so heavy.

Today the weather dawned clear so as Thom and I checked out the boardwalk by the Saigon River, I shot this video–at 7:30 a.m. on a Sunday when we thought the streets would be deserted, making the crossing across the wide boulevard by the river much easier.  We went by there yesterday and didn’t even attempt it.  NOPE!  The scooters were out in full force early so we had to be super nimble and scoot our asses across the street dodging the masses.  That’ll wake you up!  I don’t advise most people to try this–last night we saw our doormen escorting some tourists across a small street by the hotel to keep them alive. Not for the fainthearted! 

Arriving in Saigon

After a delay sitting on the tarmac waiting, waiting, waiting (nothing leaves on time in Shanghai), we were off to Saigon!  As the plane neared the ground, the first thing I saw was the cluster of headlights illuminating the sky at an intersection–20 scooters across–what fun we will have trying to stay alive as we cross the streets here!

Ben Thanh market at night-can't wait to see it when open
Ben Thanh market at night-can’t wait to see it when open

Upon arrival, with passengers exiting fast out of the front and the back of the plane, we all ran to the buses that would take us to the small terminal.  The Visa process here is fairly simple with all non-Asian citizens herded into one area for processing.  We paid for “speedy” process and personal assistance but next time we’ll probably skip this extra fee we paid and do it ourselves.  Didn’t seem to get us through any faster and it was very simple.  The people watching was so interesting while we waited–huge diversity of visitors.   Vietnam attracts the hippy backpackers in droves-Bob Dylan shirts, dreadlocks and all.  It’s cheap and fun here.  We love, love Vietnam–everyone is so friendly and almost everyone speaks great English so it’s just easy.

We had paid also to have a private car take us to our lovely hotel, the Park Hyatt, and that was worth it as it is chaos outside the terminal.  Interesting that the waiting area is all outside with a canopy thus saving on A/C bills for the airport but making it fairly miserable for all in the hot tropical conditions.

Enjoying wine at outside café-lots of night life here in Saigon
Enjoying wine at outside café-lots of night life here in Saigon

Throwing the bags into the room, we immediately ventured out and went in search of an ATM.  Got to get us some Dong!  At 22,000 Dong to $1 US, you can get put off thinking something is terribly expensive at 2 million Dong but really not so much.  Dong in hand, we were off to explore Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon–either name seems to work here.

Crossing the street among all the scooters is challenging but when Thom went on ahead, leaving me to cross by myself, I just waited for a group of young dudes to venture out into the crosswalk and I inserted myself into their pack.  There is safety in #’s and they graciously shielded me from harm.  Thanks, guys!

Along the way, we managed to find some beautiful buildings, interesting stores and a Moroccan belly dancing club.  Who knew?  Something I never knew–Thom is freaked out by belly dancers but I’m trying to get him to go just for the experience.  After a glass of wine and some snacks at an outside café, we called it a night, eager to get some rest and explore Ho Chi Minh City tomorrow. More adventures to come!

She Works Hard For Her Money

Even in China, you can find “organic” fruit being touted, though Thom and I know it probably comes from the same field by the highway just like all fruit.  That being said, we really can’t see paying 3x the price for the organic label so, after trying it both ways, we went back to buying from our local fruit lady in our neighborhood.

Every day, from morning to late at night, she sits on the corner by our apartment selling fruit out of the back of her van.  Assisted by probably family, they weigh the produce and bargain with you on the price, sometimes throwing in an extra banana or two if they overcharge.  When Thom buys, this is always what happens because he hates to bargain.

James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady
James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady

The fruit tastes delicious and, if it is raised in contaminated soil with the aid of polluted water then so be it.  As Fiona, our language teacher has taught us, “In China you can die fast or you can die slow-you pick.”. If the fruit doesn’t kill us, all the carbs we eat will so it’s time to enjoy a juicy peach and throw caution to the wind.

Our fruit lady was anxious to know if James was our son.  She pointed to him and then to us with a big smile.  Yes-we were blessed with a son, which always goes over big here.  Of course, we have a gorgeous daughter as well but here in China, the message is always clear-boys are special and men are in charge.

When we were at Tai Chi, after class we lingered to chat with the fellow participants.  The ladies were off talking while Thom and I talked to the guys.  They immediately turned to Thom and asked what he did for a living.  Smiling his huge grin, Thom loves to tell people, “I follow her and support her” pointing to me. The dudes let that sink in and then their eyes turned to me.  “What do YOU do?”. I don’t believe I’ve ever had a man or woman turn to me FIRST when I’m with Thom to ask why we had moved to China.  They ALWAYS assume it is for Thom’s career.  Just a cultural thing that I’ve gotten used to here.

Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom
Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom

My fruit lady is also in charge at her job and works so hard to sell her produce but always has a smile on her face.  She’s an excellent business woman who understands customer service and that the little things matter like the extra banana thrown in the bag for regular customers or that offering a sample of the grapes will yield larger sales.  Kudos to you, my dear!  You work hard for your money and deserve every RMB you get from Thom–I’m actually okay that he doesn’t bargain with you.  I’m sticking with you for my fruit, even if it kills me.