Exploring Hampstead and Highgate Cemetery

If you want to get out of central London and take a quick Tube ride to explore new sights, I highly recommend a day spent wander around Highgate Cemetery for hours, then ending your day with a cozy dinner at the historic Spaniard’s Inn. Another day, boutique shop and enjoy a leisurely pub meal in Hampstead, followed by taking in a movie in a luxurious historic theater. I love London and there are unlimited things to do but sometimes it’s nice to get out of the city and have a new adventure!

Highgate Cemetery

Highgate Cemetery is one of the earliest private garden cemeteries in England and well worth a visit. It truly is a “garden” cemetery because nature has taken over and shaped its landscape. There is none of the maintenance like cutting back growth and mowing that you might see in other cemeteries. The large monuments are covered in vines, tilting from tree roots that have grown wild, and vegetation rules everywhere. This is a “for profit” cemetery that lured middle class and upper-class burials away from the more common church graveyards that had become crowded in the 1800s in London.

Allow yourself a few hours to wander this historic Victorian era cemetery north of London. Thom loves cemeteries so we try to check out any interesting ones as we travel. There is an admission fee of $10 and tours are available for $8 more-card payments only/no cash. We opted to wander on our own around both the East side and the West side, each with their own creepy charm. Don’t forget to go in the teeny tiny gift shop where they sell tickets on the East Side and get your unique Karl Marx doll refrigerator magnet. One of a kind! We told them they need to sell stickers (which we collect) but the cashier said they won’t let them sell them and that they had to fight to get the Karl Marx magnets. Okay. Their loss of income. Check open/close times online Highgate Cemetery as they vary by season. When we were there, the last entry was at 3:30 pm, which makes sense especially in the winter when it gets dark at 4 pm. You do NOT want to wander this place at night. Remember Dark Shadows? We went home and immediately watched the movie Fantastic Beasts, which they shot on location in Highgate (substituting for Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, another great place we have visited)

There is a very small amount of parking at the entrance. We took an Uber there and home. Only took about five minutes to get one. There are some bus stops nearby as well but not really anywhere to walk from/to and no close by Tube stations so plan your transportation accordingly.

West Side Cemetery

This side was the first to open of the two in 1839. Stay on the paths. Don’t disrespect the very old dead people. Use the maps you can get where you buy tickets to read about the people buried here and to make sure you don’t get too lost. We headed down the main drive to the far back to check out the Circle of Lebanon, Egyptian Avenue, and the Terrace Catacombs (great scenes in Fantastic Beasts of these spots). Speaking of beasts, when we saw a huge lion statue guarding a gravesite, we looked up and saw that buried under the lion was George Wombwell, the owner of several travelling animals shows and the statue represents Nero, his very own lion. This side is the most “prestigious” area to be buried. George Michael is buried on this side-I didn’t even know he was dead. He is described in the pamphlet as “one of the most significant cultural figures of the MTV generation.”

East Side Cemetery

Your entry ticket covers both sides, so we had to check out this side too because Karl Marx is buried here. Lots of flowers left here for Karl by visitors. As we wandered back, we saw a simple headstone that had bowls of pens left by visitors. Hmmm…a writer perhaps? Consulting our guide and looking at the engraving we discovered that buried there was Douglas Adams, author of Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxies, a favorite book of Thom’s. You never know who you will find at the cemetery!

Spaniard’s Inn

After a long walk amongst the dead at Highgate, we were hungry and nearby just happened to be the lovely Spaniard’s Inn, established in 1585. We grabbed an Uber and a few minutes later were able to enjoy a wood-burning fireplace, low (not for those with any height) wood beamed ceilings and cozy wood booths. Mentioned in Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers and Bram Stoker’s Dracula, this place oozes British charm. The food was very good as well! I had a warm goat cheese salad; Thom had the traditional Shepherd’s pie, and we shared a sticky toffee pudding. Our booth was near the front window on the street, where that section of road is a “blind” which means with no signing whatsoever, cars and buses have to navigate a section that is only wide enough for one vehicle. In the old times, carriages and horseback riders could make it through but, because there is a historical gatehouse on one side and Spaniard’s Inn on the other and neither could be torn down to widen the road, they just somehow make it work. We saw many a vehicle backing up because the opposing driver was more aggressive and drove into the blind first. Chaos! Let’s just say that the double decker bus always won the right of way and rightly so.

I would recommend reservations if you are going at peak dining hours. They have a huge garden dining space that doubles their capacity in the summer.

Hampstead

Eager to check out another village close by, we took the Tube to Hampstead, known as the place where Harry Styles lives. It is certainly more posh than our village. How so? Well, there were many clothing boutiques, optical stores and cafes/pubs. Our village has more ethnic groceries/cafes and thrift stores-absolutely no boutiques. It was fun seeing how the other half lives. Lots of fancy folks walking around with their dogs. It’s easy to see why if you have the money, you live here in the lovely quaint village and commute to London, about 20 minutes away by Tube. If you have time, check out the luxury movie theater, Everyman, that is an intimate space with overstuffed chairs or couches with full bar/food service to your seats. It is just lovely, and I wish we had this theater experience back home. I would go all the time. Enjoy the journey!

Picking the Perfect Pet Sit

First, there are no “perfect” pet sits but, with my tips below, hopefully you can find one that is the best fit for you! Now that we have done several pet sits ourselves, both domestic and abroad, I want to share our best practices with you. We have used the app Trusted Housesitters for over six years, first to have people sit our animals and now we are sitting other people’s animals. The best part is that you get to meet lovely new animals and travel the world for free!* You don’t pay to stay at the host’s house (transportation to the sit location is up to the sitter to pay for and arrange) and the hosts don’t pay you to sit their animal. A win-win for everyone involved. For our current 40+ day pet sit in London, the cost of a hotel for that amount of time would be $20,000+. What an opportunity this pet sit is to embrace the British culture AND take care of a friendly and beautiful cavapoochen! Pet sitting for us is the perfect way to see the world. Enjoy the journey (while pet sitting)!

These photos are from our current and past pet sits. Check out my other blog posts on our pet sits at: https://travelswithmelinda.com/2023/09/06/down-on-the-farm-pet-sit/ and https://travelswithmelinda.com/2023/08/26/travel-free-as-a-pet-sitter/

How it works:

  1. Activate your profile on the app and fill out all the required paperwork.
    1. *join Trusted Housesitters here and get 25% off-annual pricing-membership levels vary from $189+). Membership includes a free background check.
  2. Set up a search for the dates, locations and type of pets (cats, dogs, farm animals, etc.) you want to sit.
  3. Apply for a sit that looks good for you. Here is my typical post to the host via the app: “Hi! We would love to take care of your (insert pet names/type) on (insert dates of sit). I work remotely as a tech consultant and my husband is retired so we will be home to care of your house and pets. Please let us know if you would like to do a virtual chat to get to know us. I’m happy to set up a meeting invite when you are available, either on Zoom or Teams. Thanks!”

Video chatting with the prospective hosts is essential to making sure this is the right pet sit for you. You check out if they have a good vibe, meet the pet(s) and observe their behavior and check out where you’ll be living. Is it comfortable, is it clean, can you see yourself being there. After you chat:

  1. Decision process: once you speak with the hosts, if they pick you, the app will send you an email letting you know and then you go to the app to either accept or decline.
  2. Communicate with the hosts after accepting a sit via the app to work out all the details.
  3. The hosts will share with you a House Guide that they fill out on the app. This guide should provide you with all the information you need for a successful sit with their pet. Review this guide in advance of the sit so you can ask questions about the information and anything the host might have left out.

Tips for creating a strong profile section on Trusted Housesitters:

  • Provide several personal character references from your friends and family touching on your reliability and trust worthiness.
  • There is a section on the app that shows your: background checked, ID verified, email verified, phone number verified and LinkedIn profile link. Having a strong LinkedIn page reassures the host that you are legit because it shows your work and education history. I have no doubt that my LinkedIn profile has helped hosts get to know me and feel comfortable picking us for sits.
  • Elaborate all about yourselves in the “our experience”, “about us” and “why we want to house sit” sections on the app as your content will help you get selected for the sit you want.
  • Always post lots of pictures of yourself and your own pets. Visuals give the host a look at your vibe to see if it’s a good fit with theirs.
  • Now that we have done several sits and gotten five star reviews from those hosts, we have people reaching out to us and asking us to sit without even applying. We’ve turned down a few offers but it’s nice to be asked.

CHOOSING A SIT:

Location considerations when choosing a sit:

  • You will want a safe neighborhood always. Check crime stats and use Google maps for street view of local area.
  • How’s the weather going to be in this location? We knew that the January weather in London would be rainy but still probably 20-30 degrees warmer than in Idaho where we live. We are in London now and are hoping for at least a few days without constant rain. Who knows? It might happen. In the meantime, we packed rain proof boots, jackets, umbrellas and don’t have to worry about dry skin with all this lovely humidity.
  • Listings will state whether the sit location is “accessible by public transportation”. If not, how do you plan to get around? Are you driving to the sit or renting a car? If you are driving, is there parking for your car off the street? The hosts can let you drive their car and the listing will state if that is the case. We haven’t done a sit yet where the hosts offered use of a car. Two hosts said we could only use their car in case of emergencies with the pets to take them to the vet.
  • If you are going to use public transportation only, really check out what that means. Are cafes, markets, stores nearby? How close is the public transporation to get to them if you can’t walk? Is it bus or underground? Does Uber work in the area if you need it?
  • If you can walk to the grocery store, how will you carry home groceries? We asked the host in London if they had a wheeled cart we could use. They didn’t but when we arrived, we were surprised that they had bought us one to use and it has been essential for getting home everything we need for a multi-week sit.
  • We have a quick walk to the bus but an almost mile walk to the Tube to get to the underground. Yesterday, we walked seven miles between walking the dog several times, going to/from the Tube and into London for a short museum visit. If you are not able to or don’t want to walk a lot, take that into consideration before picking a sit. Imagine what your day-to-day life will look like. It’s nice to have a change of pace from your normal life but not so much that you are not able to handle it physically.

Pet considerations when choosing a sit:

  • Really dive into the pet details with the owner. How big is the dog? Do they pull when you walk them, i.e. will they pull your arm out of it’s socket when they see a crow or are they old and walk too slow a pace that you might not enjoy? Some owners let their pets walk off leash. We don’t walk dogs off leash on a sit because the pet doesn’t know us well and we want to keep them safe either from traffic, jumping in the creek, getting hurt by other dogs, etc. Make sure dog owners have a leash for you to use as well as lots of poop bags.
  • Does the pet have any separation or anxiety issues in general? How long can you be gone from the dog? Most of our sits have stipulated that we can be gone from the house for max 4-5 hours. We interviewed one owner for a sit in the US and they shared that their 95 pound dog gets anxious and has jumped out a closed window after being left alone in the house too long. They were looking for a pet sitter to not leave the dog alone at all and, if the sitter did have go run errands, they could take the dog to a daycare center which the host would pay for but would really prefer you stay home. We were offered the sit but turned it down. I just couldn’t see walking a dog that big that lunges at crows per owner and jumps out windows. Even working from home, we would occasionally want to go out to eat and run errands without having to check the dog into daycare. 
  • Are any pets on medications or have medical issues? Do you feel okay with administering medicines to the pet?
  • If you don’t want to follow strict instructions on pet feeding, then don’t sit. All our hosts have had very specific feeding schedules for their pets including weighing the food, times of day to be fed,  limiting any treats, etc. You must follow their guidance.
  • Where does the pet(s) sleep? Do they sleep in a crate? We had a sit with four dogs and even though they weren’t big dogs, we opted to have them sleep downstairs vs. sleeping with us as they were used to doing with the hosts.
  • Does the house have a fenced yard where you can let out the pup for those early and late bio breaks so you don’t have to get dressed and go for walks every time they need to pee.
  • Are there parks nearby for walks on grass vs. cement?
  • Do the owners have shampoo supplies and a place (tub or deep sink for smaller pets) for when the dog gets muddy or will you have to take the pet to a pet spa to clean them if they roll in the mud? It rains A LOT in the UK so we have designated towels to wipe mud off paws at every door.

Host considerations when choosing a sit:

  • Preferably choose a host that has had previous sits done through Trusted Housesitters with great reviews from their sitters.
  • Check our the hosts on various social media platforms before accepting, i.e. Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, X, etc.

Before accepting a pet sit, dig into these details to determine if this sit will work for you:

HOME FEATURES

  • What are your essentials? Mine are: strong Wi-Fi and dedicated office space, a good kitchen to cook in-which saves us lots of money and is necessary as I work remote but on West Coast hours from 2 pm to 10 pm when I’m in Europe so we can’t go out to eat during the work week. We download the local delivery app if we don’t want to cook and get our dinner delivered.
  • Comfortable furniture (Americans are used to oversized comfy couches-which are hard to find in Europe) is a plus as well.
  • Are stairs a problem? We live in a ranch house back in the US but in Europe you will typically have to be okay climbing stairs in almost any residence. Our lovely three story Edwardian home where we are pet sitting in London is great for getting some cardio but we also have both slipped when taking the curvy staircase steps a little too fast and not watching our feet. So, if you have any accessibility issues, make sure you ask about the layout of the house. Even in a one story, inquire if the laundry is in the basement.
  • Bed size may matter to you if you are tall. We are used to a California King bed and now have a full size bed at our sit where my hubby’s feet are hanging over the bed. Not much to do about it now!

COMFORT

  • Heating and cooling-check it out before you accept any sits! Especially in Europe, many homes don’t have air conditioning and, with global warming, it gets HOT in the summer and early fall. With heating, ask the host how the home is heated (radiators? forced air? controlled by app?) Our London hosts shared the app for their heating system. We raised their temperature programming by a few degrees because I like to be warmer than they do. For long sits like ours, it’s important to be comfortable.
  • Speaking of being comfortable, if you are used to creature comforts like a cozy throw, flannel pillowcase, washcloths (not a thing in Europe) then pack them! I have a travel throw that I don’t leave home without-find it here Travel Essentials – Travels with Melinda

SAFETY

  • For safety purchases, we brought a carbon monoxide travel alarm with us. Ask the hosts if their home has one of these and also smoke alarms. You can bring travel door alarms. Our house has a security system, which the hosts explained in detail before they left.
  • Ask the host if there is a door key hidden outside the house in case you forget your key on an auto locking door. You do not want have to take out the window screen and crawl through a window like we had to at our first pet sit when the door key code stopped working. The hosts were mortified because it was their fault that the guest key code setting expired. It happens. Be prepared.
  • Before the host leaves, get neighbor names, contact info, neighborhood groups on WhatsApp or Facebook, etc. You never know when you might need local help.

CLEANING

  • If you are lucky, the host will have a housekeeper and you won’t have to clean. At our current sit, there is a trusted cleaner who comes in for four hours every Friday to clean so we won’t have to do anything at all. Perfect!
  • In other sits, we have been asked to sweep/swiffer floors, etc. while there. No one wants to come home to a dirty house. We actually go above and beyond for our pet sits and, in addition to cleaning the house, we wash our towels and bed linens the day we leave so the hosts come home after their vacation and don’t have to do our laundry. This type of care will earn you five star reviews and it’s just the right thing to do.

ENTERTAINMENT

  • Strong wifi is needed for so many things so check with the host.
  • Like to watch your tv shows? Get a chromecast device and program it at home before you leave. Bring your chromecast to enjoy your channels like Netflix, Apple TV, etc. on the host’s tv. Make sure you bring the instructions on how to hook it up!
  • We will also stream shows on our computers and cast to the tv via bluetooth if possible when they aren’t available via the  chromecast.
  • Enjoy music? Bring along a Bluetooth speaker to stream music from your computer or phone.
  • Bring enough adapters to the appropriate country to plug in all your devices. Also, we have found a travel extension cord is really valuable to have. See my Travel Essentials – Travels with Melinda to find the one we use and like.

Best of luck in your new pet sitting journey!

London A to Z

I love London! We’ve been several times for both business and pleasure and plan to go back in 2024 for a 40-night pet sit. It’s a city filled with history, great food and shopping and everything else you could want in a European city. When a friend told me that they had recently gotten a trip to London for their birthday (lucky La Shanda!), I thought I would put together a comprehensive A to Z list for her and anyone else visiting London soon including us. Enjoy the journey!

GETTING TO/FROM AIRPORT

London’s major airport is Heathrow (LHR) but close by is also Gatwick (LGW). Both airports have public transportation options to get from the airport to the city. Get all the info here: Trains To & From London Heathrow Airport – Maps, Tickets | Rail Europe

I’ve used a car service as well, which is the nice and more expensive option vs. public transportation but necessary if you have lots of luggage or have accessibility issues. We’ve used this service-book online: https://www.blacklane.com/en/car-service-london/

GETTING AROUND WITHIN LONDON CITY TRANSPORTATION

London, like any big city, has terrible traffic almost all the time. If you have booked tickets and need to be somewhere at a specific time, plan ahead and leave LOTS of extra time to get there. Using the travel apps like Rome2Rio or Citymapper, compare your options and add one hour to your travel time.

It’s always best to walk, which will be faster than almost any ground transportation due to the traffic. Next best options are buses (double-decker ones are fun!) and the Underground aka the Tube (subway). For both, you should have Apple Pay or Google Pay on your phone/smart watch to tap at the turnstiles to pay. Otherwise, you are fumbling for a credit card to tap, and you probably don’t want to have that out and about with other people nearby who could snatch it (yes, it happens so be smart). You don’t buy paper tickets anymore-it’s all tap to pay here.

Consider staying in Zone 1 or 2 if you will be using the Tube daily. Remember, “mind the gap” to get on/off the subway and “look left” when crossing the street. Review this before you go: How to use the London Underground: Tips & tricks – Tripadvisor

If you really have to get a car ride, then go with Uber first and, as a last resort, a taxi. Why? Well, with Uber you have a fixed price when you input the pickup and drop off locations. It is in the best interest of the driver to get you there quickly with Uber. With the taxi, you are on a meter and the driver may or may not take a direct route. We tried both and always the Uber would have been cheaper by 20% or so. When using Uber, find a landmark like a hotel or restaurant and get the address to enter into the Uber app and make it easy for the driver to find you. Our average wait time for an Uber in London was 5-10 minutes.

Uber boats go up and down the Thames-in good weather, a fun way to get around London and avoid the terrible street traffic. Just tap on and off. Thames River Cruises & London Boat Trips – Uber Boat by Thames Clippers

TRAVEL APPS

Google maps works well in London.

Citymapper App-best transport app of London. Makes public transportation easy. Shows you prices too.

Use the GETT app to get taxi’s. Especially for short distances, they are convenient. Taxi’s can use the bus lanes and Uber can’t so taxi’s can get you there quicker.

TfL Go app for Tube travel. Shows map of various lines and tells about cancellations. Tap on a Tube station on the map to see facilities like lifts and bathrooms.

WhatsApp to call and do video chats with those back home. Free! Also some restaurants use to make reservations.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotels:

St. Ermin’s is elegant, historic and has the best service I’ve experienced at a hotel. Great location with easy walk to Big Ben and other landmarks. Historic Luxury 4-star Hotel in Central London | St. Ermin’s Hotel (marriott.com)

The Tower Hotel (get a room with a view of the Tower Bridge) https://thetowerhotellondon.com/

Sarova-Rembrandt Hotel: https://www.sarova-rembrandthotel.com/

Serviced luxury apartments https://theharrington.com/stay

GREAT VIEWS:

Book tickets to the Sky Garden. It’s free and we have great memories there. You need to book in advance but it’s worth the effort. https://skygarden.london

The Shard-London’s tallest building The Shard: Inspiring change (the-shard.com)

London Eye The lastminute.com London Eye: The Official Tickets Website

Parliament Hill for best view of city Parliament Hill, London – Wikipedia

SITES/TOURS:

Parliament Tour Tours – UK Parliament

Tower of London Tower of London | Historic Royal Palaces (hrp.org.uk)

Westminster Abbey A royal church | Westminster Abbey (westminster-abbey.org)

Happy Potter Tour Warner Bros. Studio Tour London – The Making of Harry Potter (wbstudiotour.co.uk)

Buckingham Palace https://www.rct.uk/visit

St. Paul’s Cathedral St Paul’s Cathedral | St Paul’s Cathedral (stpauls.co.uk)

Hampton Court Palace https://www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace/#gs.msyc38

Alexandra Palace Amazing Things To Do at Alexandra Palace

London Walks Contact Us – London Walks Harry Potter walk; ghost tour; historical walk

MUSEUMS:

All national museums in the UK are free but check online in case you need to reserve tickets because they restrict the # of people at any given time. Special exhibits may cost. Donations encouraged. Use Smartify App to scan paintings and learn more about the art.

PARKS: (locals hang out in the parks on nice day-rent bikes and ride around to see more!)

  • Hyde Park
  • St. James Park
  • Hampstead Heath/Parliament Hill-view of skyline
  • Holland Park-Kyoto garden
  • Diana Memorial
  • Kew Botanical Garden there is entrance fee https://www.kew.org/

RESTAURANTS/BARS:

Pret-A-Manger is fast food and delicious. For coffee and pastries, takeaway (this is how they ask for “to-go”) cold sandwiches which are fresh and tasty or hot soups and sandwiches. Very affordable $5 euros for wrap that is plenty big. Great veggie options.

PUBS:

MARKETS:

AFTERNOON TEA: (a “must do” while in London!)

SHOPPING:

We aren’t big shoppers but I had always wanted to see the inside of Harrod’s so off we went after a look at the Microsoft Experience Center on Regent Street (my former employer). All I can say is that the retail sector looks strong in London. The streets were packed with shoppers going here and there like back before the pandemic. Harrod’s is fancy and the shoppers there were dropping thousands of dollars on designer bags, jewelry and perfume. Taking the main center escalators, you will see beautiful displays throughout the store. The food market has great takeaway food (no tables to eat there!) including yummy jams, candies and crackers to take back home. In the basement is the Herrod Gift Shop where the affordable items area including a Christmas area, lots of Harrod’s branded items and such. If you have room in your luggage, go for it and buy, buy, buy!

Typical London Shopping Hours but check with each store before you go:

Mon – Wed: 9:30am – 7pm, Thu: 9:30am – 8pm, Fri: 9:30am – 7pm, Sat: 10am – 7pm, Sun: 12pm – 6pm

ACTIVITIES/DAY TRIP:

SPORTS EVENTS:

THEATER:

When we lived in NYC, we tried to go to a Broadway show almost every week. London has a lively theater scene so we booked tickets to see Book of Mormon at the Prince of Wales theater. This theater was compact with maybe 25 rows on the main floor and then several balconies over it. So small but tall and probably no bad seats in the house. Upon entering, you can grab a drink and relax in the lobby where they had tables/seats which you would not find at a Broadway theater. I love to collect bar cups branded for each Broadway show we attend but here just regular plastic cups for my wine but way cheaper than Broadway ($6 vs. $20 I’m used to in NYC).

You can take drinks into the theater to enjoy while you watch the show. Book of Mormon was hilarious with talented singers/dancers/actors. In NYC we are used to going to the TKTS booth in Times Square the day of the show and getting good deals but here I’ve been using the TodayTix app for good pricing you can get in advance of the day you go-usually 20-40% off depending on the seats you want.

Get your tickets online at and never pay full price:

Europe Train Travel-UK, Eurostar, Italy

Travelling by train all over the UK was on my husband’s bucket list so off we went in September 2022 after several years of Covid lockdown, his open-heart surgery and resulting lengthy recovery. It was great to get on the road again or should I say “rails”! We flew into London and then we were off to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Bath and then the Eurostar from London to Paris and finally several trips in Italy-all by train. Hopefully, I can help prepare you for your train travels. Remember, enjoy the journey!

UK TRAIN TRAVEL

We love travelling slow and looking out at bucolic grassy slopes of cow and sheep grazing on the green grass without the worry of driving in a foreign country. With good wifi, you can also get some work done (me) and catch on social media (my husband) along with the perks of a convenient café car and bathrooms. We sometimes bring along our own food and beverages and grab a table seat on the trains. In the UK, Pret and M & S Food are our go-to spots for readymade sandwiches, pastries, fruit and salads that make up an excellent train picnic! You’ll find these chain shops either in the train stations or nearby.

After a few days to enjoy London, we boarded our train to Edinburgh, a city I had been longing to see for awhile. I recommend you sit on the righthand side of the train for this trip to enjoy some coastal views along the way. Edinburgh was magical-see my blog on our visit there: Edinburgh – Travels with Melinda

As with any kind of travel, it’s best to be prepared for anything to happen. On our one hour scheduled trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow, we experienced having to exit two trains due to flooding on the tracks ahead on a very rainy (even for the UK) day. Finally, with no alternative, we quickly downloaded a local taxi app, booked a car and had them drive us the final 20 miles to Glasgow for $25GP rather than be stranded at the local train outpost standing outside during a thunderstorm. We were fortunate to be able to afford to do that but many of the fellow passengers were going to be forced to wait for another train or for the train company to get them a bus to transport them to their final destination, turning a one-hour ride into an all-day nightmare. So, while there are great pluses to train travel, stuff can happen. Be prepared. Technology is your friend. Use it.

Glasgow to Liverpool was a four-hour train trip. We saw mile after mile of sheep laying in the fields! Wind turbines are everywhere. With an energy crisis due to the Russian dependency, the UK will have to put up even more turbines to support their needs. At one stop, our driver must have exceeded his work shift, so we had to wait for his replacement to show up-about a 20-minute delay. Unlike airplanes, trains cannot make up time if they get delayed. You will just show up past the arrival time scheduled. Build in some time on your agenda for possible delays if you are making any connections.

Booking tickets can be confusing but take it one step at a time. Research going from Point A to Point B on a travel app like RometoRio, which is my favorite transportation app. There are many different train companies within a country. For our UK train travels, we used Linr (London Northeast Rail), ScotRail and GWR. When you book using their online platforms, the tickets will be accessible in your app and it’s a barcode or QR code. You scan this code on the machine to get into the platform. When you get to the train station (most don’t have a lot of seating so don’t go too early-30 minutes prior to departure is about right), go to the board listing all the train rides and, about 20 minutes prior to departure, your trip details will post with the platform #. As soon as the platform # is assigned, you can go to the entry, scan your ticket and board the train. Most of our rides had assigned seats. In the car, you’ll see red or green lights to indicate whether a seat has been booked in advance. If you want to change your seat, you can go to any seat that is green. Luggage is stored overhead (carry-on) or there are luggage racks in each car. We only travel with carry-on (even for a month-long trip!) so we keep ours in the overhead where we sit. I have heard of luggage being stolen so keep an eye on your possessions! Helpful UK links:

Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com)

LNER | London North Eastern Railway

Train Tickets | Times & Timetables | Fares in Scotland | ScotRail

Buy Cheap Train Tickets | Great Western Railway | First Great Western (gwr.com)

EUROSTAR TRAIN FROM LONDON TO PARIS

I always thought that taking the Eurostar would be totally cool and I was right! It’s fast and much more fun than flying from London to Paris. Hints on taking Eurostar from London to Paris:

You will leave from St. Pancras international terminal in London and travel 150 miles per hour (224km) for 2 hours and 17 minutes arriving at Paris Gare du Nord station. There is free WiFi on the train and outlets by seats (UK or EU adapters) to recharge your devices. There is a club car with food and beverages to purchase. Everyone has assigned seats-book here: Book Europe Train Tickets and Holidays | Eurostar.com

Plan to arrive two hours before your departure. We had standard tickets but, in retrospect, we wish we had paid the extra and booked business class to skip the long lines and wait in the comfort of the business class lounges. Next time! Lots of restaurants and shops to check out at St. Pancras while you wait or buy food there and bring it with you on the train. No restrictions for bringing food and beverages on the train.

Boarding Process:

  1. 90 minutes before your departure time, you are able to queue and start to proceed to scan your ticket to enter the platform. Note: you can scan earlier if you want though the signs say otherwise but there is limited room to sit once you go through so best to just be in queue when they tell you.
  2. After scanning ticket to go through the gate, you then go through security. Everything goes in the trays. No need to take off shoes or separate liquids  Just backpack/purse/anything in your pockets in one tray and luggage in another. You will have to take off coat or jacket and put in try as well. Saw someone put their coffee cup in a tray as well.
  3. After security, then you go through passport control stations. First show passport (no need to show ticket) to UK control and then you have to show passport to EU control. Then, put away your passport. You won’t need to show again when you arrive in Paris.
  4. Try to find a seat to wait. Good luck-seats are limited! Your platform # will be announced 20 minutes prior to departure and the masses will all move to a moving sidewalk that goes up to the platform. Watch for people holding signs for where you go based on your seat.

For really in depth Eurostar details, check out this site: https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/london-to-paris-by-eurostar.htm#check-in-london

ITALY TRAIN TRAVEL

Within Italy, we took the train from Florence to Venice for a weekend and also day trip to Lucca and finally train to Rome to end our trip. Please don’t think about driving in Italy. The roads are as narrow as the drivers are crazy. Just being a passenger in a car in Italy is stressful!

Arriving in Rome, the Roma Termini is a massive transportation hub. From there, you can use the metro system, buses and trams to get around the city or, even better, walk!

Pay a little more and get the Executive Club seats on the train. On our train from Florence to Rome, they even had private salons that had sliding doors to close for privacy. Great for families that need 4 seats. Make sure you know where the bathrooms are and don’t book a seat by them. Trust me. You do not want the toliet traffic or smell.

Also with Executive Club, you get to wait in the lounge. In Florence, this is really important because there is no place to sit for anyone and only pay public toliets. Now in Venice, the station has adequate seating especially in the upper food court  Florence needs to add a second floor! The lounge has a coffee machine and packages snacks and a nice water closet aka WC. Helpful Italy train links:

High speed train (we took from Florence to Rome): Italy high speed train tickets| Italotreno.it – Official website

EN – Trenitalia

Senior Offer – Trenitalia

Can non-Italian residents get the Senior discount?

CartaFRECCIA (senior discount) member-If you do not have a domicile in ITALY you can ask for a CartaFRECCIA by sending an email to the e-mail address cfreccia.application@trenitalia.it indicating name, surname, date of birth, place of birth (in case of birth in a foreign country indicate which) , an e-mail address and a telephone number and attaching a legible PDF copy of your valid passport.

Within 30 days you will receive your personal code, a password to access the dedicated online services and the CartaFRECCIA, immediately active, which will have to print and take you on your journeys when using trains operated by Trenitalia. Shipment of the CartaFRECCIA plastic card is not possible under any circumstances.

Stonehenge

When in England, a “must see” is the prehistoric monument and cultural icon called Stonehenge. North of London in Wiltshire, England, it consists of huge (13+ feet high and 7 feet wide) standing stones connected with horizontal stones in two concentric circles. How was this constructed back in 3000 BC or there abouts? How did these heavy (25 ton) stones get here in the middle of a field in England? Who knows but standing next to them is an experience, some say spiritual in nature, that you will never forget. Enjoy the journey!

The stone circles are aligned towards the sunrise on the summer solstice. On purpose? Maybe. The pilgrims that come to Stonehenge to experience this event think so. Legally protected since 1882, Stonehenge is a World Heritage Site owned by the Crown and managed by English Heritage. We made a side trip from Bath in September and, though it was not easy to get there via public transportation, I’m so glad we did it. Standing in that field and gazing at something I have seen over the years only in pictures was a special moment.

This is how we got there-you take a train from Bath to Salisbury (book tickets in advance on GWR app). We had plans for the spa in Bath for the evening, so we took the first train out at 9:33 am and arrived in Salisbury at 10:32. Arriving at the train station, we quickly made our way to the bus stop right outside the station and queued up to get on the bus that runs every hour on the hour (Bus Timetable – The Stonehenge Tour). Our driver was running late due to a staff shortage but eventually we made it to the huge parking lot at Stonehenge and off we went to see some really big historic rocks!

You can buy your tickets in advance online or get them when you arrive to enter the museum (Prices and Opening Times for Stonehenge | English Heritage (english-heritage.org.uk)). Use your entry ticket to see the interactive exhibit, hear all about the theories of how the stones got there, and then get on the shuttle to go out to see the stones up close OR if you wore your comfy shoes, you could just walk up the path (1.5+miles each way) to see the stones for free. If you have a lot of time and it’s not too muddy, you can take a walk through the fields (vs. the paved paths) where the cows and sheep are just roaming around grazing. In retrospect, I wish we had scheduled more time (all day) for this excursion. But we needed to get in/out of Stonehenge with several hours allotted for public transportation, so we bought the $24euro entry tickets, did a quick loop around the museum and hopped on the shuttle that runs constantly back and forth to the stones. Afterward, we browsed in the gift shop, where they sell and offer tastings of booze (of course, all UK museums do!) and got a treat in the café. Then, it was back to the bus, then the train and finally we got to soak in the hot spa waters in Bath. What a great day!

Stonehenge is open: Sun – Sat 9:30 am – 5:00 pm (last entry 3 pm)