Category: Uncategorized

Milan, Italy – A to Z Travel Tips

On By Travels with MelindaIn Italy, Milan, Travel, travel essentials, travel hacks, travel tips, travelling, UncategorizedLeave a comment

We got to spend a lovely week in Milan when we visited recently for a Bruce Springsteen concert that unfortunately never happened due to Bruce’s illness. Oh well, disappointed not to see Bruce but it’s always wonderful to be in Italy. Milan is a working town vs. the historically preserved Florence that we had spent two weeks in earlier. In WWII, a large portion of Milan was leveled by Allied bombs and you can see that by the mix of a few older buildings and mostly modern structures in the city core. That the Duomo, The Last Supper, Sforza Castle, and other beautiful landmarks survived the bombings is a miracle.

Here’s a suggested itinerary for a week plus practical travel tips to follow during your stay in Milan. Enjoy the journey!

Day 1: Explore the Heart of Milan and luxury shopping

  1. Piazza del Duomo: Duomo di Milano – Official Website (duomomilano.it)
    • Start your day at the magnificent Milan Cathedral (Il Duomo). Get the guided tour with roof access. Milan Super Saver: Skip-the-Line Duomo and Rooftop Guided Tour 2024 (viator.com). We loved this tour and you won’t believe the views from the top! Pay extra for use of the elevator with this tour package if you don’t love climbing steps.
    • Climb Brunelleschi’s Dome for panoramic views.
    • Explore the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower.
  2. Explore the Vittoria Emanuele Gallerie:  https://www.ingalleria.com/en
    • Opposite the Duomo, spend time at cafes and shopping at high end stores. Under the central dome is a floor mosaic with the Savoy Coat of Arms. According to legend, you will have good luck if you step with your right foot on the bull and twirl around 360 degrees around with your eyes closed. Don’t worry about finding it-there will be tourists lined up to take a turn!
  3. Golden Quadrangle:
    • Stroll along Via Monte Napoleone and Via Alessandro Manzoni.
    • Window shop at luxury boutiques like LV, Fendi, Armani, and Gucci. If you are a serious shopper, make an appointment in advance.
    • Visit the High Line Outlet for shopping on a budget (located out of town).
  4. Visit La Scala Theater either by taking in a performance (lots of ballet, opera, etc.-get tickets in advance) or book a guided tour: https://www.museoscala.org/en/visit/museum-and-theater/guided-tour-of-the-theater.html. We went on the tour because the tickets are pretty expensive but I’m sure it would be a wonderful experience.

Day 2: Art, History, and Vintage Cars

Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco): Welcome to Castello Sforzesco Official Site | Castello Sforzesco Official Website (milanocastello.it) Spend the day wandering the grounds and the museum!

  • Explore the castle and its museums.
  • Admire Michelangelo’s unfinished sculptures.
    1. Vintage Fiat 500 Tour:
    2. Navigli District-Spend evening wanders in the canals that has lots of cafes and shops. Take a cruise down the canal: Milan: Navigli District Guided Canal Cruise | GetYourGuide. We even had a musical journey with a wonderful sax player entertaining us on our cruise.

    Day 3: Art and Chapels

    1. Santa Maria delle Grazie:
    2. Sant’Ambrogio Basilica: Home page – Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio (basilicasantambrogio.it)
      • Visit this ancient church with stunning mosaics.
      • Explore the nearby Sant’Eustorgio Basilica.
    3. Jazz-Take in a show at the Blue Note Jazz Club famous for it’s musical variety Jazz Club, Ristorante, Location Eventi Milano | Blue Note (bluenotemilano.com)

    Day 4: Brera Neighborhood

    1. Pinacoteca di Brera neighborhood:

    Day 5: Parks, Museum, and Cemetery

    1. Parco Sempione:
      • Relax in this beautiful park near Sforza Castle.
      • Visit the Arch of Peace (Arco della Pace).
    2. Monumental Cemetery https://monumentale.comune.milano.it/
    3. Leonardo Museum https://www.leonardo3.net/en/

    Day 6+: Day Trips

    If you have the time, Milan is the perfect hub to take day trips from, so off you go on your own to the train station (about one hour trip if you get the express-$8 euro each way) or get a guided bus tour at Day Trips from Milan | GetYourGuide.  Popular choices are to visit Lake Como but be prepared for an 11 hour day to/from on a bus with stops along the way and a boat cruise.

    Vareena: We went to Vareena for the day by train from Milan. Buy your tickets for the train online. Leaves from main station, Milano Centrale. When you arrive in Vareena, walk down to the water and take the trail along the lake that leads to shops/cafes with great views of the harbor. As the masses exit the train, they headed right for the ferry to take a boat ride across Lake Como. We walked instead and waited for the next ferry (they come every 30 minutes or so). Buy a ticket at the standby the ferry dock ($9 euros per person round trip from Vareena to Bellagio) and wait in line. Grab a seat on the top (outside or inside seats) and prepare to enjoy the view and relax. You can just ride over and stay on the boat to ride back or you can get off and walk about Bellagio and take a later ferry back.

    Remember to savor Italian cuisine especially the risotto dishes, indulge in gelato, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere of Milan!

    TRANSPORTATION IN MILAN

    • The car traffic is heavy in Milan so allow lots of time to get where you want to go, even with taxis able to take the bus lane. We stayed at a hotel out of the city near San Siro Stadium (to see the Bruce concert that didn’t happen) so we ended up taking a lot of taxis when we couldn’t use the bus/subway combo to get somewhere. The buses/subways are well used so be prepared to stand and be packed in with people. The trolleys are cute and can get you around the city core. One day we just hopped on one near Sforza Castle and rode it all the way around town. You tap to pay to take all public transportation-the machine is on the bus/trolley, or you tap to get through the gate into the subway.
    • You will see A LOT of graffiti on buildings in Milan. Not street art but random writing on buildings. The landmarks are not tagged or, if they are, they clean them up, but most other buildings are defaced. Life in an urban environment!
    • Flying in and out of Milan-there is an international airport (Malpensa) and a local airport (Linate) on opposite ends of town. Make sure to specify which one you want to go to. If you have any VAT to apply for, you must get your receipts (given to you by the store you bought at) BEFORE you go through security. Then, on the other side of security, you will see an office for “tax refund” and you take your paperwork there to get the VAT refund. We learned the hard way and did not get the required stamp and didn’t want to go back so we just left without it despite Thom shopping his way through the swanky Milan men’s boutiques.

    Many of the smaller airports don’t have gates attached to terminal so you board buses to get to and from the plane to the terminal. Make sure you are able to carry your luggage and do stairs up and down to get on planes. Otherwise, use only larger airports. Florence’s airport and Milan’s Linate airports both use buses for some flights.

    CURRENCY

    Italy uses the euro. Bring a coin purse because you will get a lot of coins as change. Only bills are 5, 10, 20, etc. The coins are 1, 2 and all under 1. I started using a baggie, but it looked so tacky I bought a small coin bag in Florence.

    RESTROOMS

    You need to have a few 1 and 50 cent coins with you at all times to get into public bathrooms, which are usually clean and some even have attendants. Bring tissues with you too as toilet paper can be scarce. Also, hand sanitizer is a must have.

    If there aren’t public bathrooms, go to a big busy cafe or department store where they can’t track all patrons and go right through to the bathroom. Don’t ask permission. The main attractions will all have bathrooms, but most will be located past entry if there is an entry fee.

    FOOD

    • Milan is known for their risotto (northern Italy) vs. pasta (southern Italy). The classico Milanese risotto version has saffron, and cheese and it is delicious. I wanted to lick the plate clean.
    • Don’t worry-gelato is everywhere in Italy. There are also exquisite pastries in the shops so when you need that espresso to keep you going, there are sweet treats to enjoy as well.
    • Aperitivo starts early afternoon until about 7 and dinner starts at 8-restaurants don’t even open until then so have a late lunch. You’ll get snacks with a spritz, usually olives, chips, nuts so you won’t be starving when you get your meal at 9 pm.
    • Cafes in the Galleria looked like a great place (expensive) to get a drink or bite, and people watch.
    • Pistachios are a big thing all over Italy. Pistachios are included in croissants, cannolis, gelato, etc.

    DRESS

    • Since Milan is the Italian capital of fashion, finance, and industry, you will see men dressed well, usually during the day in suits. Women are styled from head to toe as well. Tourists do stand out here, wearing lots of resort wear in June, when we were there. Lots of bright print dresses and shorts. I always wear black when I travel so I looked very urban by comparison. What you wear is up to you. Just wear comfortable shoes! Every time I saw a woman in pointed toe heels, I shook my head in amazement. How do they walk in those, let alone on cobbled streets???
    • Men in their fine suits don’t wear socks with their Italian loafers. Why? Maybe they want to show their ankles? I need to know.
    • Handbags are important here. At dinner, the well-styled couple next to us went to the manager and got a stool for her large designer handbag so it would not have to rest on the floor. Still not enough, the gallant gentleman put a cloth napkin on the stool before the handbag was placed. I was then also given a stool for my $25 Amazon travel bag, which has rested on floors all over the world. When in Italy!

    A Month in London-My Observations

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Europe, London, Travel, travel tips, travelling, UK, Uncategorized2 Comments

    One of the many reasons I love to travel is to experience firsthand how other countries are different than the US. I believe travel expands your horizons, stimulates thinking about how other people live, and makes you appreciate your own life back home. Before I lived for several years in China on a work assignment, I had never appreciated the US’s clean air, water and soil. All those pesky US regulations ensure we are safe from pollution and I’m all for them. When I used to bring Chinese citizens to the US for work trips, they would stare at the blue skies and ask me if air quality was always like that-clean and breathable. On a good day in Shanghai, the air quality index (AQI) was 125 or so and on a bad day, the AQI could skyrocket to 400+ where you could even taste the pollution indoors. An average AQI in Boise, Idaho where I live is 50 or under except for right now during fire season when we are in the 150-200 AQI range. Everywhere we go in the world, I find reasons to both appreciate my home and fall in love with new places. If I’m not on a journey, then I’m planning the next one. So many places to see, so little time. Next up is a girl’s trip to the Netherlands in September!

    Because we completed a one month+ pet sit in London in January/February of this year, I was able to compare the day-to-day normal life of working and being at home in the UK with our experience back in Boise. Here are some of my observations:

    LIKE:

    • History everywhere you look, even on the neighborhood walk with the dog. So much prettier than our 1950s bland architecture in my neighborhood back home.
    • Gas hobs aka stoves cook so fast you really can’t turn away from the stove while cooking but dinner gets done quickly. I now know why people on those home buying shows always want a gas stove not electric. When you travel, you learn how to cook differently or starve.
    • Heated towel racks are common in bathrooms, working to soften up the towels-more on those below. Warm towels after a bath are pure bliss.
    • Local foods that we embraced in the UK included daily tea, hot cross buns available fresh at the grocery, fish and chips, curry, and loads of international restaurants. When in Rome!
    • So. Many. Newspapers. Journalism must still be a viable career in Europe. I love especially the really large Saturday editions. Back home in the US, most newspapers have either closed down or are on their way to being solely digital. When I asked for a NYT Sunday paper in Seattle on a trip last year, they looked at me like I was a criminal, and I was told forcefully to read it online, as having a paper edition was wasteful and bad for the environment. They haven’t gotten that message here in the UK and I loved it.

    DISLIKE:

    • Cars and buses coming at you from left, right and you better be alert. With help from the pavement signs, I learned quickly to look left, look right, and be nimble because traffic is coming at you from all directions you don’t expect coming from the US. And don’t forget MIND THE GAP when you are entering/existing the Tube. Typically, there is not a huge gap between the platform and the train, until there is, and you fall onto the tracks (not that this happens frequently-you’re probably more likely to be pushed onto the tracks, so never stand too close when you are waiting for the next train). Don’t mean to scare you off public transportation. Just be aware.
    • Typically, hard water = towels so hard you definitely do not need a loofah to get rid of your dry skin. Putting the towels on the heated rack (love this feature in European bathrooms!) does soften them a little bit and are toasty when you get out of the shower. Ironing them might help too but I don’t iron so that is just a theory.
    • No washcloths provided anywhere in Europe-bring them or buy when you get here.
    • Dryers-as fast the gas hobs cook, the dryers don’t dry quickly. Also, we found out after waiting a few hours for clothes to dry that our dryer in London required emptying a water extraction tube after every cycle. Who knew? This is how the moisture is collected vs. a venting system that we are used to in the States. The appliances you are used to in the US are different in Europe. Use a translation app if the equipment controls are in a language you don’t know.
    • You will find stairs in almost any European house or apartment building because, due to urban density, they build up not out. Great exercise for those legs! Be mindful of your feet and hold onto the banister. Thom and I both slipped a few times as we got used to being alert and not carrying too much when navigating the steep curving stairs.

    WTH?:

    • Foxes are everywhere in London neighborhoods-they are supposed to be nocturnal, but we saw them daily just rambling down the block in broad daylight like they owned the place. Foxes like garbage similar to racoons and make loud barking/screaming noises at night like the coyotes back home. Once we got used to them, it was not scary or a big deal. We saw one run across the busy road down the block from our house and dodge the double decker bus like a pro.
    • Dogs are everywhere in London-on the Tube, in the shops and welcome in some restaurants with their own “Dog Menu”. Now, you would think there might be some food and health laws restricting animals in cafes but apparently not. They are welcome and usually well behaved.
    • Off leash dogs run amok in the parks, rolling in the mud (always raining here) yet wearing the cutest outfits.
    • Lovely fireplaces are often found in every room of the old houses, but most don’t work-too hard to convert to gas? Perhaps too dangerous to have wood burning for sure in these old homes-don’t blame them there.
    • Old houses are lovely but don’t have heat in all the rooms?? Dress warm-layer up. At restaurants, you will also have this type of experience in their bathrooms. Brrrrr…..I used an electric heated throw to stay warm in the living room while enjoying British television shows.
    • Many roads have “blinds” where it will suddenly go to one lane where drivers have to be bold and own the lane or take turns-it’s very organic and scary. One blind right outside the Spaniard Inn window where we were dining made us both gasp and chuckle to watch the cars and double decker buses dodging and frequently backing up to accommodate the heavy flow of traffic. Insanity!

    CREATURE COMFORTS WE MISSED WHILE WE WERE AWAY: (obviously other than family and our dog)

    • Sleep number bed with adjustable positions and warming feet features-the ultimate in sleep experience vs. the average full-size bed.
    • TOTO -if you’ve ever experienced it, you know what I’m talking about. Google it. Bidets don’t even come close.
    • Gas fireplace that we use constantly back home and is so cozy on a cold winter day.
    • Computer lap tray so I can escape to the couch to work sometimes.
    • Comfy office-I’m spoiled by my ergonomic office chair and electric standing desk back home.
    • Gym equipment in our basement for those cold and/or rainy days to get some exercise. Yes, it does rain frequently in London, so we now understand why everyone has those rubber boots aka wellies and rain gear because you have to go out in the rain, or you’d never be able to leave the house. The plus side is that you don’t need a humidifier because you are living in a rain forest with lovely natural humidity.
    • Television sports-you have to get a subscription to watch them most places or go to the local pub. While we do have Chromecast for streaming apps when we travel, we were unable to pick up any US sports because of geofencing so we missed our American NFL football and college basketball that we would normally be watching back home. First world problems, I know.
    • Embrace the changes when you travel and enjoy the journey!

    Florence’s Jewish Synagogue and Museum

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Florence, Italy, Travel, travel tips, travelling, Uncategorized1 Comment

    We are always on the lookout for hidden gems that are off the beaten path when we travel. In Florence, we took the time to tour the Synagogue and Jewish Museum, which may not be on all tourists’ agendas, but we really enjoyed our visit there. Be sure to save time to eat at one of the nearby kosher restaurants too!

    Opened in 1882, this beautiful Synagogue is the heart of Florence’s Jewish community. Surrounded by a lush garden, the synagogue’s architectural details not to be missed include exotic style with Moorish, Romanesque and Byzantine elements combined. We got the audio tour and learned all about the history behind the building. The museum is a superb collection of historical items of Jewish art. Allow about two hours at least to take it all in.

    The impressive exterior with white travertine and pink limestone, together with the central dome and the copper-clad side towers, is an iconic Florence landmark that is the heart and soul of the city’s Jewish life. Whatever religion you follow or none at all, it is always interesting to experience all sides of the cities you visit. Enjoy the journey!

    VISIT

    Check online before you go as the opening days/time change with the seasons: Synagogue and Jewish Museum in Florence | Jewish Florence. We were given a locker to secure our bags before we entered and were allowed to bring in our phones so we could take pictures (no flash). They ask for men to wear the headcover provided. To be respectful, please adhere.

    Fried artichoke
    Cheses zucchini fritters and salad

    We have eaten at Ba Ghetta in Rome known for their delicacy, the fried artichoke. Sadly, they weren’t open yet when we were there (restaurants usually close between lunch and dinner that starts around 8 pm). Luckily, Ruth’s cafe across the street was open and served us a tasty fried artichoke and cheese zucchini fritters. Neither of these fantastic foods are available back home in Idaho. Enjoy the journey!

    Paris Travel Guide

    On By Travels with MelindaIn Eiffel Tower, France, Paris, Travel, travel tips, Uncategorized, vacationLeave a comment

    If you haven’t been to Paris yet, GO! Okay, maybe wait until after the 2024 Olympic craziness is over but then just do it. I’m lucky enough to have been there many times, both for work and vacation. It never gets old or boring as you wander around and perhaps discover people dancing on a Sunday morning by the outdoor market or wander into a church where a harp concert is going on-some of my favorite Paris memories. Every time of year I’ve visited Paris from February to May to September has been lovely, though the summer can get hot and air conditioning is not guaranteed in older buildings. We are hoping to get back to Paris again soon so we can enjoy one of our favorite cities in the world. Below is my travel guide for Paris to help you plan your Parisian adventure. Bon Voyage!

    WHAT TO SEE:

    MONUMENTS AND SITES:

    MUSEUMS (so many to see, so little time)

    DAY TRIPS (use the trains to get there!)

    Versailles https://en.chateauversailles.fr/

    Disneyland Paris: https://www.disneylandparis.com/en-usd/

    Dijon https://www.france.fr/en/article/dijon

    PHOTOGRAPHY SESSION (I haven’t done this but many people seem to do it and it’s a highlight of their trip to capture the moment professionally-sites below sourced off Facebook/Instagram)

    WALKS (the best way to experience Paris is to get lost and wander, stop at a cafe to rest and then wander some more)

    • Canal St. Martin-watch boats go through the locks/cool neighborhood for a stroll
    • Latin Quarter-swing by the Pantheon (watch Midnight in Paris movie to get ready)
    • Luxembourg gardens-bring a picnic sail a boat. Beautiful in the fall! My favorite place in Paris.
    • Pere Lachaise cemetery has many famous figures in the arts buried there. It is a beautiful place to spend a few hours walking around-maps are provided at the gate to visit gravesites of Frederic Chopin, Edith Piaf, Marcel Marceau, Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Jim Morrison, etc. My husband loves to walk cemetaries so we spent quality time here.
    • Paris catacombs: https://www.catacombes.paris.fr/en labyrinth in the heart of underground Paris
    • La Promenade Plantee is a public park built on a historical rail line in eastern Paris-very similar to the High Line in NYC and nice place to soak up Paris nature while in the city.

    CLASSIC COBBLESTONE STREETS TO WALK:

    • Rue Mouffetard
    • Rue Cremieux
    • Rue des Barres
    • Rue de l’Abreuvoir
    • Cour du Commerce-Saint-Andre
    • Rue Montorgueil
    • Rue Cremieux
    • Rue des Rosiers
    • Rue Lepic
    • Rue Saint-Antoine
    • Avenue Winston Churchill
    • Quai de Jemmages

    VIEWS

    Rooftop at Galleries Lafayette-also a great place to shop! Haussmann location. Enter the “la coupole” building with red awnings and take elevator to the top floor. Near the Opera House so visit there too while in the neighborhood.

    ​Montparnasse Tower Panoramic Observation Deck:  https://www.tourmontparnasse56.com/en/

    Printemps shopping store-go to the store at 64 Boulevard Haussmann and straight up to the rooftop cafe called Deli-Cieux, where there is an outdoor terrace with views of the Eiffel Tower. Another place to stop to use the bathrooms too when you are out and about.

    SEINE RIVER TOURS

    • Batobus boat tour-hop on hop off on the Seine: www.batobus.com/ Just buy tickets at the dock when you are ready to go or online. Great way to see the city from the water.
    • Evening dinner cruise on the Seine: Calife

    FOOD TOUR

    COOKING CLASSES

    PERFUME MAKING CLASS

    CAR/BIKE TOURS

    WHERE TO EAT:

    People ask on the Paris Facebook groups all the time, “where should we eat in Paris?”.  Easy answer-on most corners you will find a café. Eat there. They are all good. Look for a crowd of locals and you can really count on it. I enjoy my favorites, croque monsieur (ham and cheese melted sandwich), warm lentil salad, onion soup or omelets, and Thom has his big juicy cheeseburgers and fries. Yum! At the cafes, you will be surrounded by neighborhood locals enjoying family dinners. Dinner is usually around 8-9 pm with the cafes staying busy up until midnight even during the week.

    FOOD (restaurants recommended by people I follow in Facebook Paris group because we just always eat randomly at any café in Paris and they are all good)

    Michelin restaurants

    https://guide.michelin.com/ca/en

    Wine tasting https://www.cavesdulouvre.com/en/ (or at any wine shop-they are on every block!)

    HOT CHOCOLATE (a big deal in Paris)

    NIGHTLIFE/CONCERTS

    WHERE TO SHOP:

    MARKETS

    The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, a sprawling network of warehouses, stands and alleyways on the northern edge of Paris and is the largest antiques and second-hand market in the world and the fourth most visited attraction in France. The Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen, since 1870 – Official website of the Puces (pucesdeparissaintouen.com)

    SHOPPING – COVERED PASSAGES

    SHOPPING – DEPARTMENT STORES

    AIRPORT TO/FROM

    You’ll probably be flying into Charles De Gaulle (CDG) or Orly (ORY). Paris traffic is terrible like most busy cities, so I recommend public transportation that is not only cheaper but faster than taxis or Ubers. Check out all your options here for both airports: Access, maps, routes – Paris Aéroport (parisaeroport.fr). If you want to go bougie, then hire a private car service. Expect to pay about 150 euros for a one-way trip from CDG to the center of Paris. I would allow an hour for the trip due to traffic being hellish almost any day/time.

    Arriving by train to Paris? Then just use the Metro (subway) system or a bus to get to where you are going. You can also stand in a taxi line at the station.

    GETTING AROUND

    Paris is a walking city but there will be times when you need to get somewhere far away or it’s raining and then you should take the Metro. Info here: Metro map of Paris and the île-de-France region | RATP. You need to buy a ticket or a Navigo card from a machine at the station. Unfortunately, it’s not “tap to pay” using your phone or credit card like it is now in the UK or US.

    Caution: you must validate your ticket for subway and RER trains in Paris. We saw a couple sitting next to us get 35 Euro fine a piece because their tickets weren’t validated when security walked through and checked everyone. Being validated means you put in your ticket at stations to open gates and go to your platform. Leaving Versailles, I checked my ticket after I went thru the gate, and it didn’t show validated, so I went back to the service desk, and they had to do it for me manually and then they let me back through. Avoid fines. Check.

    G7 are the “official” taxis in Paris so look for the G7 placard before you get in. Don’t think you can just wave down a taxi on the street. Either get your hotel doorman to get you one or use the G7 app, which hasn’t worked well for me. The train station will have a taxi stand so get in line and wait your turn.

    TRAVEL APPS

    Transportation apps to use in Paris:

    • G7 for taxis
    • Uber
    • Paris Metro for subway
    • Citymapper to get around walking
    • Rome2Rio for transportation to show your options to get from Point A to Point B
    • FLUSH or Toilettes Paris for map to public bathroom access

    Food apps

    • Paris foodlovers
    • The fork

    WHERE TO STAY

    HOTELS (these were recommended by folks on a Paris travel group I belong to. I’ve only stayed in Airbnbs in Paris because we stay for 1+ weeks usually)

    ARBNB (where we have stayed in the past that I would recommend)

    https://abnb.me/N42jnAkyhvb A one bedroom near Montmartre. Must be able do steps-few apartments in Europe have elevators. Right above a boulangerie and across the street from a lovely café.

    https://abnb.me/DFDgqDF8pvb A one bedroom in Montmartre with an elevator. Great neighborhood with all the shops. The kitchen is well equipped and it’s quiet.

    Enjoy your Paris journey!

    St. Paul’s Cathedral-London

    On By Travels with MelindaIn London, Travel, travel tips, travelling, UK, UncategorizedLeave a comment

    St. Paul’s Cathedral is yet another site that we had never had time to sufficiently explore while in London, once again confirming that we need to keep coming back here! You might have seen it when Charles and Diana got married there and it was being broadcast on every single TV channel in the US. On one previous trip, we walked in, turned around and decided we didn’t have enough time to adequately see it given the $25GBP entry fee. This trip we didn’t have a huge amount of time but really wanted to see it, so off we went for a quick tour before our afternoon tea reservation at St. Ermin’s.

    Walking from the Tube to St. Paul’s, we explored the lanes along the main road, leading us to historic little parks tucked in between towering office buildings. Seeking a warm public bathroom, we luckily found St. Mary Aldermary, a 17th century Gothic church/cafe, where people and dogs can hang out, enjoy snacks and use the facilities. What a haven! We even stumbled upon a very pink cake shop-Spread the Love with Cake! I can embrace that sentiment wholeheartedly. You never know what you will find off the beaten track!

    A cathedral dedicated to St. Paul has stood on it’s current site for over 1,400 years but, as our tour guide (free!) told us, the buildings have changed over the years by various events including the 1666 Great Fire of London. You can use a multimedia audio guide for your walk through or take a guided tour with one of the St. Paul staff-all free. We had a lovely lady who told us the history and stories as we walked through the cathedral. There was a statute of English lexicographer Samuel Johnson, who wrote the first dictionary of the English language published in 1755. It took him seven years to complete the work, often writing at a nearby pub, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, where there is a monument outside the pub honoring Hodge, the cat, Samuel’s beloved pet. Fun facts!

    Make sure you take the time to go downstairs to The Crypt where the nation’s heroes are buried and memorialized. Not only are the bathrooms, café and gift shop downstairs but you can also see Christopher Wren’s tomb (he built the cathedral), Florence Nightingale’s memorial, Winston Churchill Memorial Gates (his funeral was held here but he is buried elsewhere) and the Duke of Wellington’s tomb.

    Before walking up for a view, consider how many steps you want to take. The Whispering Gallery is 259 steps up. Supposedly you and a friend can whisper to each other at opposite ends facing the wall and your voice will travel around the curved edge and reach each other. We didn’t try it because my knee was acting up. You can arrange in advance assistance if you have disabilities but there is no public elevator.  If you are in better shape than me, you can keep on climbing about 100 more steps up and visit the Stone Gallery, which is the outside area around the dome where you can take some nice photos. If you are really ambitious and physically fit, go all the way to the top and see the Golden Gallery, a total of 528 steps from the cathedral floor. Good views of London landmarks including the Thames but remember you are taking those 500+ steps up and down again.

    Opening times may vary so check online before you go:  St Paul’s Cathedral | St Paul’s Cathedral (stpauls.co.uk). When there are services going on, you are not allowed to take pictures on the Cathedral floor. You can attend services at the Cathedral for free. I would recommend taking in an evensong service. We went to one of these services at Westminster Abbey and really enjoyed it. Enjoy the journey!

    Victoria & Albert Museum-London

    On By Travels with MelindaIn art, London, Museum, Travel, travel tips, travelling, UK, UncategorizedLeave a comment

    If you want to visit a museum in London where the building itself is a piece of art, then visit the Victoria and Albert Museum aka the V&A. With over 2+ million objects in their permanent collection, those who are interested in applied arts, decorative arts, and design will be delighted. Founded in 1852 and named after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, as with other national British museums, the entrance is FREE though some specific exhibits and events may have a fee. Check online and get tickets in advance for these types of temporary exhibits. This is a “must see” museum when you are in London!

    Wear your comfortable shoes because the branch in South Kensington (there are a few small branches other than this one so make sure you go to the main museum) covers 12.5 acres with 145 galleries. Overall, it is one of the largest museums in the world. You won’t be able to cover it in one day so plan on coming back a few times. On our latest trip to London, this was my second visit to the V & A and Thom’s first. On the Girls Trip last year, we focused on the fashion/apparel collections because Patti had an interest in costumes and textiles and the exhibits at the V & A are huge for these areas. This trip, we wandered through the ceramics, glass, ironwork and sculpture galleries.

    VISIT THE MAIN CAFÉ FOR AN ELEGANT BREAK

    After you have walked a few miles to see the exhibits, take the time to find the Main Café. Opened in 1868, this opulently decorated café reflecting the Victorian era was the world’s first museum café. Grab a seat (turnover is quick, so wait and be speedy to take over a table when a patron leaves). Once you have a member of your party guarding the table, you can take turns going to the various food stations to pick out a salad, sandwich, hot or cold main course, dessert and beverage before taking it to the cashier to pay. Be kind when you are done and bus your own table, taking your dishes to the wait stations around the perimeter.

    BEST MUSEUM GIFT SHOP IN LONDON

    In my humble opinion, the V & A has the best museum gift shop in London. In addition to offering merchandise for their temporary exhibits, they have a wide selection of goodies for all ages. Their jewelry collection is my main interest because their items are stylish and well-priced. They even carry pieces from one of my favorite Italian designers, Angela Caputi. We are currently in Florence where Angela’s workshop and showroom are located, and you know I went there on our second day here! Now is the time to think not only of yourself but those on your Christmas/birthday lists. Unique and well curated, you can find something for everyone here at the V & A gift shop. Enjoy the journey (and shop)!

    National Gallery Museum-London

    On By Travels with MelindaIn art, London, Museum, Travel, travel tips, travelling, UK, UncategorizedLeave a comment

    The National Gallery Museum in London is celebrating its 200th birthday this year, which is yet another great reason to visit London soon (as if you needed a reason). Though I’ve been to London a few times, I’ve never had the time to enjoy this museum, so this trip we made it a priority! Located in Trafalgar Square, I recommend you spend some time walking around the square and soak up the atmosphere outside before entering this magnificent museum. The fountains, the lions, and statues are all great back drops for picture-taking. Climb the museum steps and be ready to walk amongst the vast amounts of art from Monet, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Rubens, Raphael, and so many more. Seriously, there is a whole gallery for just Rembrandts, one of the biggest collections of his art that I’ve seen, and I get around! Of course, Monet is my happy place and they had enough of his art to make me happy including one very large piece. Having been to his home and lily ponds in Giverny several times, I just connect with his calming pieces. We only had a few hours to enjoy the art but look forward to going back next time we are in London!

    Having just been to the British Museum where there were no seats to sit and appreciate the exhibits, I was happy to see a variety of benches and even leather chairs spread out through the galleries so you could spend time just sitting and appreciating the art on the walls. The art was all hung from chains off poles near the ceiling, making it probably easier to move pieces and not hurting the walls. Make sure to look up and appreciate the beautiful ceilings and skylights throughout the museum.

    We did see lots of tour groups with their guides giving lectures at the various major pieces of art. Because you can’t possibly see all the art on one visit, next time we plan to perhaps take a tour with someone who can bring the art to life with stories. We did try the app Smartify | A World of Art and Culture, Just for You – Smartify and were very impressed. You just scan the art, and it immediately pops us a few paragraphs about the artist and that particular piece. A great collaboration between art and technology. Give it a try next time you visit a museum!

    CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT

    After you walk miles around the museum, take a rest across the street in the stunning crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields cafe. The original brick-vaulted ceilings and historic tombstones lining the floor provide atmosphere and the food is tasty and well-priced. Check on their website for special events that turn the crypt into a music and cabaret venue.

    ENTRY TO MUSEUM

    While the museum is free (like most British museums!), we went online the day before at The National Gallery, London to get timed entry tickets, which allowed us even quicker access into the museum. If you don’t have timed tickets, go to the entry on the left of the columns and you’ll probably have to wait in line for a little while. If you have tickets, you can go in the entry to the right without the line. Either way, there is a security check as you get inside.

    Unlike the British Museum where maps are free, you have to shell out $2GBP at the National Gallery to get a map but we did because it is useful to find your way around. It’s so big you could get lost! With two floors of galleries, they are grouped into three clusters: 17th, 18th century and Impressionist paintings and Renaissance, Dutch and Flemish paintings and finally medieval paintings. There were several temporary exhibitions that were all free.

    GETTING THERE

    Definitely a tourist magnet and meeting place, events can be happening at Trafalgar Square that can really be crowded, so check online sites like this one https://www.visitlondon.com/things-to-do/place/283774-trafalgar-square before you go. Be aware that protests also commonly march here to gather and make a statement, especially on the weekends. Proceed cautiously around these large crowds to enter the museum.

    The National Gallery is located just steps from the Charing Cross tube station making for an easy commute from wherever you are staying in London. Enjoy the journey!

    British Library-London

    On By Travels with MelindaIn London, Travel, travel tips, travelling, UK, UncategorizedLeave a comment

    Libraries are my happy place so when we stumbled upon the British Library after exiting St. Pancreas Tube station, which is one of the most beautiful buildings in London, it was a no brainer to change our day’s previous plans and instead finally take the time to go see it. This national library of the UK is one of the largest libraries in the world with 14+million books and other items dating as far back as 2000 BC. and while you can’t access a large part of it without a resident library card, there are lots of open spaces to relax and literary artifacts to see. Definitely worth a visit!

    First up we checked out the Treasures Collection which, of course, is free and chock full of over 200 treasures as the name indicates from Beatles lyrics to the Magna Carta to Leonardo da Vinci drawings to a Gutenberg Bible (the second we’ve seen!). Original music scores, maps, religious manuscripts, autograph letters, diaries, notes and other manuscript material from famous people such as Winston Churchill, Charles Darwin, J.R.R.Tolkien, Alan Turing, Jane Austen, and many others are all beautifully displayed.

    In the middle of the building is a six-story glass tower inspired by a similar structure in the Beinecke Library, containing the King’s Library with 65,000 printed volumes along with other pamphlets, manuscripts and maps collected by King George III between 1763 and 1820 (Wikipedia). Picture above is this tower from the outside, but the public is not allowed in there. Darn!

    Depending on how much time you have to visit, there are special exhibitions, cafes on every floor, and lots of seating to relax and enjoy the free Wi-Fi. Check it all out here: Visit us in London and Yorkshire | The British Library (bl.uk) All these spaces were busy with students, people having meetings, and eating/drinking. Clean bathrooms are plentiful, including multi-gender ones, and, available on every level. Why is it so hard in the US to find multi-gender bathrooms when they are everywhere here in Europe? The gift shop has lots of fun items including pillow covers, which haven’t been easy to find, so I got a great one with a map of London on it. Enjoy the journey!

     

    Shopping in London

    On By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, England, London, Shopping, Travel, travel hacks, travel tips, travelling, UK, Uncategorized, vacationLeave a comment

    If you like to shop, London is calling you! From vintage to designer, there is something for everybody. Even though I have been to London several times, I’m always finding new stores, neighborhoods, markets and towns to explore. On this trip, as in several previous trips, we had to buy an additional suitcase to bring home all our goodies that we found. Since we get free bag check, it’s cheaper than shipping it home. Next trip (to Italy in May!), we are taking a new fold-up bag, so we are prepared to bring home more treasures that we find on our shopping adventures without having to buy new luggage-I’m running out of luggage storage room!

    DEPARTMENT STORES

    UPSCALE

    Harrods | The World’s Leading Luxury Department Store is THE luxury department store in London that you must visit just to check out even if you don’t have the $$$ to buy designer duds. They do have a nice souvenir department in the lower level where you can find reasonable items. Make sure you check out the food hall with so many tasty options. Word of caution-jam/honey/mustard is considered a liquid (anything that spreads!) when you are leaving London and have to go through security, so pack those goodies away in checked bags or you’ll be sad when they confiscate it from your carry-on.

    My new favorite store is Fortnum and Mason, a luxury department store with floor after floor of amazing housewares, including their famous picnic hampers and foodie merchandise. Founded in 1707 as a grocery store, the flagship Picadilly store is beautifully decorated, especially during the holidays, and has been a shopping destination for the Royals, as in Queens and such. After our initial shopping trip where we picked up “biscuits” aka cookies, they were so good that we picked up some additional biscuits or as I now call them “bites of heaven” at their outlet in St. Pancras train station. They also have a shop in Terminal 3 at Heathrow, where we picked up cute British cars stuffed with fudge for the grandkids on our way home. Who’s the best NaiNai and GiGi?? Yep, the people who bring back the best souvenirs and tasy treats to share. I particularly love the F & M premium packaging, from curved beautifully decorated boxes filled with dark chocolate biscuits to their tea tins and musical containers. There are gifts for all ages. If you get hungry while you shop (and don’t we all?), they have a fancy tearoom, a food hall with every kind of food, a wine bar and a café serving famous ice cream confections. Cheers!

    Thom had never been to Liberty, a luxury department store located in the West End near Carnaby Street, so we had to go on this trip. The façade of this mock-Tudor building with its ages old timbers is absolutely beautiful and the inside doesn’t disappoint either with wood floors and an atrium that is always spectacularly decorated for the holidays. This merchant is known for its fabrics, housewares and fashion. Founded in 1875, Liberty supports new and emerging designers within its historic walls.

    After wandering around Liberty, we headed over to Carnaby Street which is filled with specialty shops like Levi’s which we didn’t need to shop at, but I did visit Doc Martens, a British classic. Thom has a pair of these, purchased after he saw Bruce Springsteen wearing them at a concert (of course, right?), and I have always wanted a pair, so I finally decided to just go for it. YOLO and all. It helped that they had a really cool limited-edition Year of the Dragon tassel loafer style that I can’t wait to wear. Unfortunately, we took public transportation everywhere in London and you do NOT want to wear nice shoes on the Tube. On one Tube trip, a guy was asleep and had a latte on the floor precariously wedged between his feet and it eventually tipped over after a hard stop and spilled all over Thom’s shoes. Thom was just glad it wasn’t vomit but that experience convinced me that the Tube is not the best place for my beautiful new Docs.

    REGULAR FOLK DEPARTMENT STORES

    Your everyday Londoner does not shop at the fancy department stores like Harrod’s or, if they do, they are rich. Popular go-to places to get clothes for most people are Primark and Marks and Spencer. There are many locations of these stores all over town. Have fun buying reasonably priced outfits and accessories to take home.

    SPECIALTY STORES

    VINYL

    Vinyl lovers should bring an empty suitcase in London. You could spend a week visiting all the vinyl stores located all over London. Check out this good list: 56 Best Record Stores in London by Neighborhood | Discogs – Record Stores.

    On this trip, we checked out Third Man Records, which is musician Jack White’s cool space in Soho. “Mind your head” is not just a sign but a caution as the entry to the basement section of this shop has a very low doorway that unfortunately Thom had hard contact with resulting in a big bump on his head. Not only do they have vinyl but a nice assortment of merch and a book machine plus a jam (for playing music not eating a delightful spread for toast) area.

    Every 1st and 3rd Friday of the month, go to the Vinyl Market (oldspitalfieldsmarket.com) to find some good bargains. On my last Girls Trip to London, I was able to find Thom a Bruce Springsteen concert bootleg album that seemed pretty rare. Score!

    BOOKSTORES

    The Hatchards Bookstore in Piccadilly was founded in 1797 and is London’s oldest bookshop and bookseller to the Royal households. When you sell merch to the Royals, a store gets to display a sign on the outside of their store that is a Royal Warrant. Hatchards has three Royal Warrants. They have lots of stores but the five-story location in Picadilly is the one to visit-it is beautiful and located next to Fortnum and Mason, one of my other favorite stores. It is also opposite the Royal Academy, which is worth a visit to see their museum (and a good place to use the bathrooms!).

    Check the Hatchards online site for book signings. They also have in their assortment first and special edition books for the collectors. A book is always a good idea for yourself or to take home for a present.

    OPTICAL STORES

    MOSCOT Beak Street Shop in the Soho district has a fantastic assortment of frames to pick from. Thom and I both have sported Moscot frames in the past and they not only look great but are super well-made and comfortable. Buying frames wherever we travel is one of my favorite souvenirs. I take the frames home to my local Costco optical and get my prescription lenses put in. Every time I wear my new glasses, I remember my vacation!

    On this trip, we discovered a new brand of frames that have lots of fashion styles to pick from at reasonable (about $150 GBP) prices. Buy Eyeglasses | Designer Eyeglasses For Men & Women – Jimmy Fairly (UK) has locations all over London and the suburbs like Hampstead. I love that they have an espresso machine in their stores and offer shots as you shop. Get all caffeinated up and buy some frames to take home!

    MUSEUM GIFT SHOPS

    I have to call out museum gift shops because I have gotten some of my favorite gifts there to take back home. Usually well priced, every museum in London has at least one if not multiple gift shops with everything from pillow covers (British Library) to Winston Churchill rubber duckies (Churchill Rooms) to booze (all of them have hard liquor including Buckingham Palace, which had an unusually large selection of sloe gin-why?). So, make sure you take time to check out the merch at the museums!

    STREETS/NEIGHBORHOODS

    Regent Street London – Shopping – Dining – Wellness (regentstreetonline.com) is a major shopping street in the West End of London. It runs from Waterloo place at the south end through Picadilly Circus and Oxford Circus to All Souls Church. Retailers who can afford this pricey real estate have their London flagship stores here. Check out technology at the Apple Store or the Microsoft Experience Center and then shop for fashion at practically every retailer you could want.

    MARKETS

    There are so many cool markets in London that you can’t possibly visit them all in one trip so every time we come, we try to at least go to one or two. On this trip, we made it to Covent Garden and Spitalfield’s. Come to these markets hungry and ready to shop. Enjoy the journey!

    Buckingham Palace-London

    On By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, London, Travel, travel tips, travelling, UK, UncategorizedLeave a comment

    I’ve walked by the iconic Buckingham Palace on previous trips to London and admired it from the front gate. On this trip, however, we finally found time to actually spend time inside checking out the official London residence for the ruling monarch. This is a working palace and the State Rooms you get to see on the guided tour are used for the official and ceremonial duties carried out by the King. Will you see any royalty? You never know! Our guide Mandy showed us how to bow and curtsey just in case any royalty wandered by us. So, while you may not see them in the flesh, you will definitely see royalty gracing the walls in painting after painting beginning with the Grand Entrance to the Grand Hall. Was it truly “grand”? Yes, it does make quite an impression. You’ll have to take my word for it because the guides were very strict on the “no picture taking” rule-not even Thom wanted to run afoul of them, so there were no sneaky picture taking at all, showing incredible restraint on his part. Enjoy the journey (but DO NOT take pictures of it!)

    Our private guided tour took us through the State Rooms. I booked the tour online at Visit Buckingham Palace (rct.uk) as soon as it became available, as they sell out fast. With gold on literally everything, the décor reminded me of Versailles. We had one main guide who did all the storytelling, and she was very entertaining, bringing to life the history of the royals plus background on the furnishings including the chandeliers, clocks, and more facts than I could ever remember but our tour included a complimentary guide booklet that I can read and use to refresh my memory on all the royal lineage as it is quite complicated. Lots of marriages, births, deaths, etc. to follow in the royal family tree.

    After a few rooms, the guide encouraged us to sit on the plush carpets if we needed to take a rest. If you wanted to be more civilized, the other two guides who were there to help had a few folding seats we could use. But how often do you get to cop a squat on the palace carpets? So down I went to lounge on the floor of the Palance and listen to the guide tell us all about the paintings in the Picture Gallery. There was a small (probably 4-year-old) child in our group that kept his mother and the guides on their toes as he was fast, and hell bent on waving an ink pen around priceless paintings, furniture and carpets, not to mention the porcelains perched precariously on display pillars in almost every room. Surely, there have been issues in the past with damage by tourists but, luckily not on our tour, though when the harried mom and child exited the group early, all the guides sighed with relief.

    The State Rooms are generally named by color-Blue Room, Green Room, Yellow Room, White Drawing Room and so on. In all, there are 775 rooms according to my handy guidebook, including 19 State Rooms, 52 royal and guest bedrooms, 92 offices and 78 bathrooms. There are hundreds of staff keeping this whole palace clean and ready for tourists and the royalty. High maintenance to say the least!

    In the Throne Room, guess what? You see the official thrones used by King Charles and his consort. You do not get to sit on the thrones for pictures nor do you get to stand on the front palace balcony that is famous for photos taken at major events when the whole royal party crowds on it to wave to their adoring subjects. No tourists sullying these icon royal-only places.

    It is fun to watch some YouTube videos and see the late Queen and now King Charles visiting, knighting famous people, and partying in the rooms that we visited. I enjoyed hearing about the annual holiday party where the palace staff gets to mingle with the King and Queen. Mandy shared that she was watching the doors carefully to be ready when the King arrived only to have him walk right up to her after creeping in through a secret panel door behind the floor to ceiling window-how cheeky of him. Enjoy the journey!

    TIPS

    • Travel tip-wear comfy shoes as you will walk A LOT. The palace is not a small place and there is no sitting except for one brief stop in the ballroom and squatting on the carpets.
    • There was a cloakroom for the tour participants where you could check your coat and packages. You don’t want to get overheated, so check it!

    THE RULES

    • You must arrive 30 minutes before the time of your tour. If you’re late, you may not be admitted.
    • The entrance is at The Queen’s Gallery. We were in the area the day before our tour and found the entrance, which is on the left-hand side of the palace as you face it. It is a little hard to find, so check it out prior to your visit so you are not late for your tour.
    • There is no photography or filming. Our guide asked us to turn off our phones before we started so we wouldn’t be tempted. If they catch you disobeying the rules, we warned there would be consequences.
    • Our tour was not accessible for anyone with disabilities. You have to book a special tour if you require step-free acess.
    • If you book tickets and end up needing to cancel like we did, you can get a full refund! I had forgotten how bad the jet lag can be, so I scheduled a morning tour on the weekend after we arrived, and we just weren’t up for it, so I called the morning of the tour as soon as they opened at 9 am and talked to a nice person who processed a full refund to my credit card. I then rebooked a few weeks into the trip when we had more energy. You have to call +44 (0) 303 123 7300 and talk to a real person to get a refund-none of this doing it online!