Moving and Dodging in Shanghai

A few weeks ago,  we moved into our new apartment in the area called Pudong in Shanghai.   Holy Hell-if you thought moving in the US was stressful, try doing it in China.  Though we have a real estate agent who is working on our behalf and they had known about our move-in date for months, we still arrived at the appointed time with two mini vans packed with our belongings only to find that the apartment was a wreck from the painting crew that had just finished the night before.  After lots of heated conversation between our rep and the landlord rep, a crew of ladies showed up to clean and I promptly left to shop for needed stuff at Ikea and various grocery stores.   In other words, I bailed and let Thom handle it, which he did magnificently.  When I got back, it was clean and we proceeded to be able to unpack the air container that had miraculously shown up at the appointed time.  Our new mattress also arrived–we had heard that Chinese mattresses were hard but I swear they are made out of slabs of marble because they are just that hard.  I couldn’t have slept even a night on one of them so thank God our memory foam King size slice of Heaven showed up in time to save us.  We will have to buy super padded covers for our other bedrooms so our guests don’t have to suffer.

Our area is definitely expat friendly and close to the downtown financial center.  Our complex of seven buildings is built around a lake, which they had drained for repair.  Looking down from our 15th floor (really 12th level because they don’t have a 4th, 13th or 14th floor due to bad luck) and seeing a pit of mud, I was near tears but they assure me it will be filled up soon–yeah, right!    I do love looking down to see the dog walkers and tai chi groups exercising in the morning in the area around the mud pit. WP_20130910_029

While we have an unbelievable gym, there’s nothing like running outside, which I haven’t been able to do because I value my life and limb.   Pedestrians (and what few joggers are out and about) are the lowest form of life in terms of who rules the road and sidewalks.  You find out very quickly that the chain of life starts at the lowest level with pedestrians, then bikes, scooters, cars and then buses are the biggest bad asses and craziest of them all.  You step in front of a bus and you are history.  There is no “right of way” and certainly no niceties like “yield to pedestrians or crosswalks” going on in China.  Basically, if you are walking on a sidewalk or crossing a street, even with the light, you better be nimble, head on a swivel and dodge all the chains of life that can run you down because they will without a thought.  I just watched Dodgeball on TV and when the old guy says, “If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball” I just have to laugh because in China, it’s more like, “If you can dodge a bus, you can save your ass.”

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Not for the faint hearted or slow in movement, this is probably why Thom and I are the only Lai Wai’s I see walking the streets.  All the other ex pats are using private car/drivers or at least taxis.  What can I say–we like to live life on the edge and Thom likes to stare them down like the New Yorker that he is and see if he can get them to yield-not the buses, of course, but all other forms of killer transportation.  Sometimes he actually wins but, in the game of life, he also has learned to dodge too.

 

Nap time at Ikea

Everyone should experience shopping at Ikea in China. They have all the same merchandise that you see in the US but the customer interaction is so different. While the store is packed, the checkout is relatively empty. There is a whole lot of looking going on but not a lot of buying. In fact, you see people all over the store taking pictures in the various staged rooms. I’m told by locals that people then post these pictures to social media and say that these are pictures from their own home and not the Ikea showroom. What a great idea–no need to buy at all!

In fact, many people go to Ikea to nap in the comfortable beds made up for display. I doubted that this really happened, but needless to say, I was wrong as usual–there was a whole lot of napping going on! I’ve gone to lots of Ikeas and never seen beds so messy from all the napping traffic. You have to wonder how often they are changing those display sheets. Yikes and ughhh!

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The most popular part of the store, though, is the Ikea cafeteria. Offering relatively inexpensive mystery meatballs and other exotic fare, there hasn’t been an empty table the few times I’ve visited. Noshing on all kinds of treats, customers are definitely loving Ikea cuisine. Hopefully Ikea’s markup on food is making up for their lack of furniture sales. Just remember, next time you are feeling sleepy, swing by Ikea for a nap…join the crowd!

Carcasses galore!

>WP_20131031_011 After checking out WalMart and Carrefour this week to get our pantry stocked for our new apartment, I found myself pulling out my phone to capture the display of the most horrendous assortment of mystery meat, heaped and hung for purchase.  OMG-really!  Do people really eat this?  My stomach is churning and burning just thinking about the wall of carcasses that confronted me as I shopped for something to eat that wasn’t staring at me with beady eyes or cloven hooves.

I discovered that both locations, especially WalMart, are for locals and not Lai Wai’s like myself.  No international food, aka Special K, peanut butter, etc. was carried and no dual signing in English/Chinese.  I guessed on some cleaning products based on the pictures and just gave up for the most part finding familiar foods.

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Now you would think that fruit is fruit but there are some crazy varieties in China that I have to investigate.  I also learned that you have to get the produce weighed and tagged in the department or risk the wrath of the cashier upon discovering an unpriced item.  Just as in other situations where you have to line up in China, you learn quickly to shove and push to get a place in line and then hold firm or be shoved to the back quickly by everyone else.  Back in Seattle this week, I was definitely less polite than before due to this indoctrination with crowd behavior.  Oh well!
 

WP_20131031_009But back to the mystery meat topic at hand, there was also a wide variety of seafood swimming in tanks and ready to be killed for dinner.  I’m more comfortable not seeing my dinner alive so this is just not going to work for me.  I just don’t connect with a fish wagging its tail in a tank–those are pets not dinner.  For now, I have no idea what I will be finding to eat but I can guarantee you it won’t be from the wall of carcasses at WalMart!

Making a house a home

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We weren’t able to bring very many personal items with us to China.  We chose to leave our furniture in the US and will probably buy a home in Boise, Idaho to be near our family in the future when we visit the U.S.  That means we will have to try to make our new house our home without many of our favorite items including most of our family photos, the wall hanging of the Flat Iron building, the Noblesville throw, our autographed photos from the many concerts I’ve been to with my job, and so on.  We saw a beautiful old phonograph (see left) but we couldn’t pull the trigger to buy it despite haggling the price down to $200 US.  WP_20131101_005

So, as we set out to take this blank canvas of an apartment, I am wondering how to quickly make it our own and make it feel like home.  On moving day, crazy me made our driver go to Ikea and help me load a huge floor plant into the mini van (picture at right of the leaf-filled van).  The Ikea security guard got a good laugh out of our efforts to stuff it in without damage.  I know having lots of plants will help with the air quality (in addition to our large Blue Air cleaner) and give color to the white walls and marble floors.   I had to give away all the plants that I had managed to keep alive for years, truly a miracle, and our wonderful dog, Izaak, went to stay with our daughter due to cost and the anticipated stress.  Boy, do I miss him!

I splurged on comfy plaid sheets and duvet cover from Muji, a Japanese store that is one of the few places to carry quality linens.  I had no idea it would be so expensive and so hard to find good sheets but very few places carry any except Ikea which primarily has scratchy cotton.  We also bought LOTS of candles to help with the strange odors that pop up with regularity from somewhere.  I got some lovely silk pillow covers including a Mao classic head shot–when in China!

Over time, we will go to the antique alley markets and buy what speaks to us.  Thom takes beautiful photos and we plan to get those blown up and put on the walls.  Over time, it will start to feel warm and inviting like our other homes.  Now, what to do about the lack of man’s best friend???  Time will tell…

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One Republic Rocked Shanghai!

hats at concert

One Republic rocked Shanghai Saturday night! We were front and center to experience a concert, Shanghai style. The arena was packed with a young crowd who amazingly knew all the lyrics and sang along all night. And they came dressed to the max with quirky and stylish outfits. Check out the hats on these girls who had on pearls with their proper dresses. There was even skin showing on some teens with skimpy outfits. Quite the range of fashion statements!

As far as concert behavior, yOne republicou can tell they are just now getting rock concerts from the US here. Finally standing when the band took the stage, the crowd didn’t know quite what to do when the band stopped for a pause before the encore. Fortunately, I knew from past experience that there would surely be an encore so leave it to my big mouth to shout out, “Encore!” and start clapping, which then rippled throughout the arena as everyone joined in with me. Yea, that’s me–inciting crowds is what I do best!

Hopefully, the band will come back soon and won’t be banned. Ryan T. was pretty sassy with his comments on not being able to access YouTube from China and some other “freedom” references and his joking about his “security” force, i.e. the government guards by the stage. The crowd loved when he spoke a little Chinese and told a story about going to the Armani Store in the “fancy” mall next to their hotel (the Four Seasons) and how he loved the smell of the store which turned out to be a car fragrance tag hanging by the air vent vs. a fancy candle or perfume. That’s China!

Shanghai to Seattle

Seattle hipstersAfter flying all night, I arrived in Seattle this morning for a quick layover before moving on to Las Vegas.  I’m going to be in the US for a month on business, just one day after moving into our new apartment in Shanghai.  Thom is staying behind to hold down the fort and hopefully get the hot water working before I return.

Already I am sitting in Stumptown coffee on Capital Hill in Seattle and reflecting on the immediate and striking differences between Seattle and Shanghai.  First, the internet is blazing fast and I don’t have to VPN out to get on social media.  Yipee!  You don’t realize how buggy and slow wifi is in China after awhile-you just get used to it.  So, score one for Seattle but, wait because Seattle falls short in cleanliness–the streets here are just dirty.  In Shanghai, there are government workers on every block sweeping up debris.   Here, the leaves have fallen (and it is much colder here!) and no one seems to care.  Clean up your act, Seattle!!!    Then, there are the Seattle hipsters, dressed in skinny jeans, scarves and facial hair, bringing their large dogs into the coffee shop.   What?   I can only imagine the tirade that would cause in China–dogs might be the entrée but they certainly aren’t allowed to be customers in restaurants.

I haven’t driven in China, obviously because I value my life, so getting behind wheel of my SUV here was weird and the drivers here actually follow the driving rules.  That’s just crazy talk!  I immediately went into a grocery store and was shocked at all the cookies, cakes, cupcakes, pies, etc.–no wonder Americans are so fat!!!   Honestly, I was brave enough to go to WalMart and Carrefour this week in Shanghai and their few bakery items are in the back of the store not upfront like in the US.  No, in China, they feature fruit up front-weird, crazy ass fruit that can smell just awful but I am sure is better for your health than red velvet cakes galore like here.

Street scene

Seattle seems like such a small, quiet place now.  There aren’t hundreds of apartment skyscrapers housing millions of people.  There aren’t scooters and the bicycles you see in Seattle are very techie and not outfitted with baskets for groceries.  In Shanghai, the bicycles are used for commuting but also for commercial business-it’s incredible what they can haul around town. Thom and I saw the bike pictured above hauling a household of furniture on the streets of Shanghai.  Amazingly balanced!

I’m excited to experience the US now through a whole new lens.  I will appreciate many things that I have taken for granted I am sure.  I have a weird feeling though that this is no longer my home. I miss Shanghai-even with all the chaos, I can’t wait to return  and continue our great adventure.  That is, if Thom can get the hot water working….if not, I may have to extend my stay here…

Dancing in the Park

I am in awe of the ability of this delightful crowd in Fuxing Park to embrace their dancing selves on this sunny October day. I envy the joy on their faces as they are clearly having a blast dancing the day away. Maybe I’ll get up the nerve to join them some day. Now that would be a fun video!

Park Life

Cards in Park

Rose Garden Fuxing Park

Kite in park

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The parks are alive with people especially when the weather is nice and on the weekends. Yesterday, we walked through Fuxing Park in Shanghai. Tucked away inside a forest of greenery, we walked in and then were stunned by how many people were enjoying themselves at 10 a.m. on a Sunday morning. Reminding me of Central Park but with more socializing, families were playing games in the large open field, fishing in the pond, flying kites and settling in a for a long day of outside enjoyment. Further in, there were all kinds of group activities–dancing, Tai Chi, singing, and playing cards. Groups of men huddled together in a circle and we couldn’t figure out what was going on so I sidled up to one of them, you know being the inconspicuous Westerner that I am, and saw that they were drawing calligraphy with a stick and wet tennis ball on the end on the pavement and telling stories.

There’s just this whole heightened level of community and engagement in the parks here that you never see in the US. Here, the apartments are very modest in the city so you can imagine that the beautiful parks are a wonderful escape to gather and spend time for the Shanghai residents.