One day we were at Giverny seeing Monet’s home and gardens and the next day we were at the Musee Marmottan seeing all the artwork that Monet’s son donated from Giverny so that the public could enjoy it and enjoy it we did on Girls Trip 2023 in Paris!
On the far west side of Paris where the tour buses don’t often go, the Musee Marmottan is rarely crowded and houses an extensive Monet collection that you most likely haven’t seen before. I’ve been to museums all over the world and always seek out any Monets they have on display, but this is definitely a rare collection that any Monet lover should see at least once. There were two paintings of his children-he had eight! There is also a collection of paintings done as he lost his vision, so the coloring is very different from his blues/greens of earlier periods. These paintings are much more vibrant in tones of red and yellows. In addition to the Monets (all on the lowest level), the house is filled with other works of art to be appreciated. Enjoy the journey!
I learned that the term “Impressionism” was coined by an art critic in a review of Monet’s piece, “Impression, Sunrise”, (pictured below), which hangs in Musee Marmottan. According to Wikipedia, Impressionism was a 19th-centuryart movement characterized by relatively small, thin, yet visible brush strokes, open composition, emphasis on accurate depiction of light in its changing qualities (often accentuating the effects of the passage of time), ordinary subject matter, unusual visual angles, and inclusion of movement as a crucial element of human perception and experience. Impressionism originated with a group of Paris-based artists whose independent exhibitions brought them to prominence during the 1870s and 1880s.
PLAN YOUR VISIT
The Musee Marmottan is open Tuesday-Sunday (closed Mondays as are many museums in Paris!) 10-6 but open late on Thursdays. Though I have been to this museum several times and it has never been busy, I like to go first thing in the morning or in the evening on Thursday. It’s so wonderful to go to a beautiful museum in Paris and not experience it crowded in with a million tourists’ shoulder to shoulder! Buy tickets online or at the museum. No gardens to work through so this is a great place to visit on a rainy Paris day. I would put aside several hours to enjoy all that this museum has to offer. The gift shop is nice but as well curated as the one at Giverny if you are a shopper.
Address: 2, rue Louis-Boilly, 75016 Paris – France
Public transportation:
Métro
line 9, stop: La Muette or Ranelagh
RER
line C, stop: Boulainvilliers
Buses
Line 22, stop: La Muette–Boulainvilliers
Line 32, stop: Louis Boilly or Ranelagh
Line 52, stop: La Muette–Boulainvilliers
Line 63, stop: Porte de la Muette
Line 70, stop : Louis-Boilly
Line P.C. 1, stop: Ernest Hebert or Porte de Passy
There are times to strike out on your own to explore while on vacation. There are other times when it makes sense to let someone else do the driving and handle all the details. Visiting Giverny on our Girls Trip 2023 was one of those times! After navigating our way around Paris by bus, Metro, walking, and an occasional taxi and Uber, we decided to book a guided bus tour to Giverny. In order to be efficient with our limited time in Paris, the 90-minute one-way bus ride from Paris to Giverny seemed to be better for us than a multi-hour Metro then RER train ride each way. The downfall of the tour was the early start time, which meant meeting our tour group at 8 am all the way across town, but it was all worthwhile once we gazed upon Monet’s lily ponds. Yes, it’s just that beautiful-see my photos below.
Uber works well in Paris, so we only had a short wait for our ride to pick us up from the apartment and take us to the tour meeting spot. The tour group arranged to meet at a cafe near the Eiffel Tower. Using the cafe facilities was essential because the bus had no restrooms. Our tour guide, Alex, was French but spoke excellent English. You book your tour group based on the language you want. As we drove to Giverny, Alex told us all about Monet, his family and stories of his successes and struggles. You could choose to sleep on the trip or use the headphones they provide to hear the tour guide. Good system. I listened. Becky slept. Seats reclined and seatbelts were required. Wish I had taken my travel blanket to be a little cozier on the trip!
Gliding along through the foggy and forested Paris countryside, I learned Monet grew up in Normandy, spent time in Algeria but got sick and returned to France to raise his family and work. Harmony, love and peace are all themes I see in Monet’s works, which is probably why he is my favorite artist. Seeing where he painted, it is not surprising to me that his home and grounds inspired him to create such beautiful, serene works of art.
Upon arrival at Giverny, our bus parked in the lot close to the estate and off we went to immerse ourselves in all things Monet. I had been there before with Thom, so I knew what to expect and looked forward to experiencing it again. Walking around the gardens and over the bridge at the water lily ponds, you feel like you are inside a famous Monet painting. It was still crowded with tourists, but we slowly made our way around taking so many pictures because everywhere you look, it is just so beautiful. The walk around the gardens ends at Monet’s house which you can walk through or just go straight to the large gift store like Becky did to shop to your heart’s content. Their selection of Monet themed items is extensive and well-priced so be prepared to find many “must have” items. I got another pillow for my travel collection, a kitchen towel and a mousepad, all of which I see daily to remind me of this special place.
Monet had eight kids and his house was large enough for his family. The paintings on the walls now are not originals. Monet’s son donated the entire art collection from the Giverny estate to the Marmottan – Monet Museum — Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, which houses the largest collection of Monet’s works and is another must see if you are a Monet fan. It’s a smaller museum housed in a beautiful building that tourists don’t usually frequent. We went there the day after our Giverny trip-another blog to come on that fabulous museum. Enjoy the journey!
TRAVEL TIP:
This is the tour that we took: From Paris: Giverny Day Trip with Audio Guide or Live Guide | GetYourGuide. I think it was well worth the $79 euros per person for the transportation convenience, estate entrance fees plus the guide’s storytelling on the history and stories of Monet. She really made the Monet experience come to life. I’m a Monet lover but never knew the details of his life. I enjoyed the fascinating stories of this colorful character!
Cautionary tale: If the tour guide says to meet at a certain time to leave or you will be left behind, they mean it. They have a schedule to keep to and they do keep it. So, plan your “free time” they give you so that you’re not standing in the toilette line when the bus is pulling out. Bye, bye! Our group left two people behind who weren’t punctual. What happened to them? Well, depending on how travel savvy they were, they could have texted or called the tour company and asked for forgiveness and inquired how they could get back to Paris. The afternoon tour could have offered them a ride home if they didn’t mind waiting five hours. If not, they’re would have been on their own to rent a taxi from Giverny to the train in the nearby town of Vernon to get back to Paris.
It’s time to finalize the details for our Girls’ Trip to Paris 2023! We visited London and Florence the past two years on our annual trip and had a blast. Now it’s time to take on the City of Lights. I’ve been to Paris several times, both on business trips and personal vacations, but Becky and Patti will be seeing Paris for the first time. How special! I get to lean in on all my past experiences and take them to all the truly magical places in Paris. I look forward to seeing Paris through their “first time” lens. I predict love at first sight. Come along on our journey!
For each Girls’ Trip, I act as the trip planner and the first thing I want to know is what is the one “must see” for each person on the trip. Then, I can research those experiences and work our trip itinerary around them. Here are our three “must see” places for our trip to Paris:
AN EVENING CABARET SHOW AT THE MOULIN ROUGE
The Moulin Rouge, which translates to “Red Mill”, was built in 1889, the same year as the Eiffel Tower. It is situated below the Montmartre neighborhood in Pigalle. This famous cabaret show features elaborately dressed yet topless show girls. Admittedly this might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s been around for over a hundred years so it’s legendary and we love all music and theater so this will be quite the experience!
Show Details
At the Moulin Rouge, shows run every day of the week and there are 2 shows every day:
9 pm show with optional dinner starting at 7 pm (dinner show ticket holders will get the best seats)
11 pm show only
Plan to arrive early! These shows are usually sold out so arrive at the entrance one hour before the time of your show. Doors close ten minutes before the start of the show, and you won’t be allowed to enter if you arrive late. There is no refund policy for Moulin Rouge tickets so arrange your transportation and allow, as always, for the Paris traffic jams that are bad at all hours.
Buy your Moulin Rouge tickets as soon as you book your travel dates. You never know when travel groups will suck up all the available tickets, as this show is always on their itineraries. You can buy direct from Moulin Rouge (Official Website) for tickets to all showtimes and options. If, for whatever reason, you don’t want to buy the tickets there, you can also book through Viator: Paris Moulin Rouge Cabaret Show with Champagne Only or Dinner 2023 (viator.com) but not all options like the 9 pm show are available on this site. Prices vary depending on the date/time you go but, when I was researching our tickets, they were as follows: $240 euros for the 7 pm Dinner+Show; $178 euros for the 9 pm Show Only; $133 euros for the 11 pm Show Only. I would say this is fairly on par pricing as compared with a Las Vegas or Broadway show.
Getting there
Of course, you can walk there or take the Metro aka subway. This is how I prefer to get around Paris during the day. However, you’ll be there in the evening and the Pigalle neighborhood is probably not the best place to wander around late at night. Known for being a tourist magnet, you can imagine that all kinds of folks would frequent here around showtimes to take advantage of people visiting Paris. I would recommend using an Uber, which works quite well in Paris. I have not had great luck with taxi apps in Paris working so, at least for me, taxis won’t be an option. If you do take the Metro, the closest station to Moulin Rouge is Blanche on Metro line 2.
AFTERNOON WALK ON THE LEFT BANK
The Left Bank is a special place best enjoyed in an afternoon walk about. First, grab some wine, cheese, fruit (figs if they are in season), sandwiches and a baguette-all at different small stores specializing in their product. Take your goodies to Luxembourg Gardens aka Jardin du Luxembourg for a picnic and people watching. There are benches and tables scattered throughout this beautiful park. Watch people sail model boats on the central pond, which served as an inspiration for a similar one in Central Park in NYC-another favorite place of mine. Then, find the Medici Fountain and take lots of pictures at this idyllic spot. Instagram worthy!
It’s just a short walk fifteen-minute from Luxembourg Garden to Shakespeare & Co., THE bookstore to visit when in Paris. After grabbing a travel book and getting it officially stamped with their logo inside, it’s time for a cappuccino at the nearest café. Then, take a ten-minute walk from Shakespeare & Co. to the Pantheon (I’m a Midnight in Paris fan!) for a tour of this iconic monument and symbol of the French Revolution built in the 18th century. We’ll visit the crypt which houses the remains of Victor Hugo, Voltaire, and Marie Curie and climb up to the dome to see the panoramic views of the city.
DAY TRIP TO MONET’S HOUSE IN GIVERNY
As lovers of art and especially Monet, we will take the time to do a side trip from Paris to Giverny to walk the lily gardens, stroll through the artist’s house and studio, and immerse ourselves in all things Monet. I was there a few years ago and took the pictures above. It was like being in a Monet painting on this lovely day.
We will wander the fields with haystacks and walk through the house and gardens. The lily ponds in person look exactly like Monet’s paintings-so surreal. Giverny sits at the confluence of the river Seine and the river Epte in the region of Normandy. While the big draw in Giverny is Monet’s garden and home, this village has existed since neolithic times and there is a church dating from the Middle Ages to explore as well as a Museum of Impressionism and plenty of cafes and shops.
Buy tickets:
Monet’s gardens are open every day including public holidays from 9.30 am to 6 pm from April 1st through November 1st. Buy timed entry tickets online at Claude Monet’s house in Giverny. They do have a great store there so bring a bag to carry home some souvenirs.
How to get there:
Giverny is 75KM (47 miles) from Paris and 4KM (2.5 miles) from the small town of Vernon where the train will stop coming from the Saint-Lazare Paris station. The fastest trains (don’t book a “local” with many stops) complete the journey in about an hour. Book your train ticket from Paris to Giverny here: Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com). You could also take a bus or drive, but we will take the train ride to sit back, relax and see the French countryside. When Giverny is open, a shuttle bus will take you from the train station to Giverny’s parking lot. The round-trip costs 10 euros and only takes about 15 minutes. You can buy your ticket on board.
If you really want to walk, it’s about 5KM or 3 miles and mostly flat following the tracks of an ancient railroad. Go down the Albufera street and cross the bridge over the Seine. At the roundabout ignore the signs for Giverny which are meant for cars. Go straight on, cross the first street “Route de Giverny” and take the pathway to your right just before the drugstore. Enjoy the journey!
There are so many wonderful museums in Paris that it can be overwhelming when you start to plan your trip. How can I see them all? (Hint: you probably can’t!) Which one to go to first? How do I prioritize? Which is best? So much art, so little time. Even after going to Paris several times, I haven’t seen them all, but I’ll try to help guide you on how to choose the best experience for you.
ICONIC “MUST SEE” MUSEUMS
Louvre Museumhttps://www.louvre.fr/en go at opening time, enter through Port de Lions entrance and go directly to the Mona Lisa-you can see from the picture below that we got a clear shot of her when we visited. You could spend a week at the Louvre and not see everything. Based on how much time you have there, prioritize what you want to see and go for it! You can book a guided tour or wander aimlessly like we like to do.
Musee de l’Orangeriehttps://www.musee-orangerie.fr/en We went here to see the large, curved Monet paintings (8 of them at this museum-see one below). If you love Monet, this is a “must see” stop for you. More info:
Musee d’Orsayhttps://www.musee-orsay.fr/en Wear your walking shoes because this place is HUGE and there is so much to see. Again, prioritize your visit based on the top art you want to see or plan to spend days here to see it all. Go to the beautiful cafe, rest between seeing different floors and take a picture of the famous clock-see below. More info:
MuseePicassohttps://www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/ is located in the heart of the Marais, one of my favorite neighborhoods. This museum is an art-filled oasis in a beautiful mansion with a courtyard cafe. Heaven! What I really appreciated was the pictures and stories about the artist himself. I’ve always enjoyed his art, but I never knew much about the man behind the art. I also love goats and there was quite the collection his goat art on display! More info:
The museum collection includes more than 5,000 works of art (paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, prints, engravings and notebooks) and tens of thousands of archived pieces from Picasso’s personal repository, including the artist’s photographic archive, personal papers, correspondence, and author manuscripts. A large portion of items were donated by Picasso’s family after his death, in accord with the wishes of the artist, who lived in France from 1905 to 1973. (Wikipedia)
Musee Rodin has both outdoor gardens with sculptures and an inside art museum https://www.musee-rodin.fr/en Definitely plan a visit here on a sunny day so you can walk the gardens and enjoy the fabulous sculptures in their natural setting. More info:
While living in the Villa des Brillants, Auguste Rodin used the Hôtel Biron as his workshop from 1908, and subsequently donated his entire collection of sculptures – along with paintings by Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir that he had acquired – to the French State on the condition that they turn the buildings into a museum dedicated to his works. The Musée Rodin contains most of Rodin’s significant creations, including The Thinker, The Kiss and The Gates of Hell. Many of his sculptures are displayed in the museum’s extensive garden. The museum includes a room dedicated to the works of Camille Claudel and one of the two castings of The Mature Age.The gardens around the museum building contain many of the famous sculptures in natural settings. Behind the museum building are a small lake and casual restaurant. Additionally, the nearby Métro stop, Varenne, features some of Rodin’s sculptures on the platform. The building is served by Métro (Line 13), RER (Line C: Invalides) and bus (69, 82, 87, 92). (Wikipedia)
Musee Marmottan Monet showcases all Monet all the time https://www.marmottan.fr/en/ and is the perfect museum for the Monet superfan, which I am. We went to his home in Giverny on another Paris trip-see separate blog post on that adventure! This museum flies under the tourist radar. The day we visited we were one of the few visitors, allowing us to sit (yes-there are benches!) and just soak in the panorama of Monet art. My husband took the panorama shot below of the empty gallery when we got there-Monet all to ourselves.
OTHER MUSEUMS THAT I HAVEN’T VISITED-YET ANOTHER REASON I NEED TO GO BACK TO PARIS SOON!
We love to wander the streets of Paris and look for street art, whether it’s a mural or artistically hung umbrellas. Make sure you allow enough time to see this type of art. Enjoy the journey!
If you are a lover of art and especially Monet, take the time to do a day trip from Paris to Giverny. Walk the lily gardens, stroll through the artist’s house and studio, and immerse yourself in all things Monet-an experience you will never forget. Go on a beautiful day and you will swear you are walking inside a Monet painting. Some of the most beautiful photographs I’ve ever taken (with my phone camera-see below) came from our trip to Giverny. Enjoy the journey!
We visited Giverny in September and it was the perfect day-sunny with the gardens in full bloom. Make sure you dedicate a whole day to this trip, so you have adequate time for the trip from Paris and time to wander the fields dotted with haystacks and walk through the house and gardens. The lily ponds in person look exactly like Monet’s paintings-so surreal. I kept pinching myself that after viewing Monet’s paintings in museums all over the world, I was finally there at the epicenter of his inspiration. I am definitely not a gardener but even I could appreciate the layout and variety of plants and flowers. Well done, Monet!
GIVERNY BACKGROUND:
Giverny sits at the confluence of the river Seine and the river Epte in the region of Normandy. While the big draw in Giverny is Monet’s garden and home, this village has existed since neolithic times and there is a church dating from the Middle Ages to explore as well as a Museum of Impressionism and plenty of cafes and shops.
Seeing Giverny from a train window, Claude Monet rented and eventually bought a house living there from 1883 to his death in 1926. He created an amazing garden, partially diverting the river Epte for these gardens that inspired his many famous paintings of the lily pond, weeping willow trees, and Japanese bridge. His house and studio have been restored and you can wander through to get a feel for how this famous artist lived and worked. Giverny is now managed by a nonprofit Fondation Claude Monet | Giverny (fondation-monet.com).
VISIT DETAILS:
Monet’s gardens are open every day including public holidays from April 1st through November 1st, 2023. Buy timed entry tickets online at Claude Monet’s house in Giverny. We didn’t spend much time in the house/studio because it was such a beautiful day, so we were outside walking the gardens. They do have a great store there so bring a bag to carry home some souvenirs.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Giverny is 75KM (47 miles) from Paris and 4KM (2.5 miles) from the small town of Vernon where the train will stop coming from the Saint-Lazare Paris station. The fastest trains (don’t book a “local” with many stops) complete the journey in about an hour. Book your train ticket from Paris to Giverny here: Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com). You could also take a bus or drive, but I prefer the train ride to sit back, relax and take in the French countryside.
ONCE YOU ARRIVE IN VERNON:
When Giverny is open, a shuttle bus or tram (so cute-we took this one!) can take you from the train station to Giverny’s parking lot. The round-trip costs 10 euros or less and only takes about 15 minutes. You can buy your ticket on board.
If you really want to walk, it’s about 5KM or 3 miles and mostly flat following the tracks of an ancient railroad. Go down the Albufera street and cross the bridge over the Seine. At the roundabout ignore the signs for Giverny which are meant for cars. Go straight on, cross the first street “Route de Giverny” and take the pathway to your right just before the drugstore. Maybe next time I’ll try walking!
Travels with Melinda 