Shopping in London

If you like to shop, London is calling you! From vintage to designer, there is something for everybody. Even though I have been to London several times, I’m always finding new stores, neighborhoods, markets and towns to explore. On this trip, as in several previous trips, we had to buy an additional suitcase to bring home all our goodies that we found. Since we get free bag check, it’s cheaper than shipping it home. Next trip (to Italy in May!), we are taking a new fold-up bag, so we are prepared to bring home more treasures that we find on our shopping adventures without having to buy new luggage-I’m running out of luggage storage room!

DEPARTMENT STORES

UPSCALE

Harrods | The World’s Leading Luxury Department Store is THE luxury department store in London that you must visit just to check out even if you don’t have the $$$ to buy designer duds. They do have a nice souvenir department in the lower level where you can find reasonable items. Make sure you check out the food hall with so many tasty options. Word of caution-jam/honey/mustard is considered a liquid (anything that spreads!) when you are leaving London and have to go through security, so pack those goodies away in checked bags or you’ll be sad when they confiscate it from your carry-on.

My new favorite store is Fortnum and Mason, a luxury department store with floor after floor of amazing housewares, including their famous picnic hampers and foodie merchandise. Founded in 1707 as a grocery store, the flagship Picadilly store is beautifully decorated, especially during the holidays, and has been a shopping destination for the Royals, as in Queens and such. After our initial shopping trip where we picked up “biscuits” aka cookies, they were so good that we picked up some additional biscuits or as I now call them “bites of heaven” at their outlet in St. Pancras train station. They also have a shop in Terminal 3 at Heathrow, where we picked up cute British cars stuffed with fudge for the grandkids on our way home. Who’s the best NaiNai and GiGi?? Yep, the people who bring back the best souvenirs and tasy treats to share. I particularly love the F & M premium packaging, from curved beautifully decorated boxes filled with dark chocolate biscuits to their tea tins and musical containers. There are gifts for all ages. If you get hungry while you shop (and don’t we all?), they have a fancy tearoom, a food hall with every kind of food, a wine bar and a café serving famous ice cream confections. Cheers!

Thom had never been to Liberty, a luxury department store located in the West End near Carnaby Street, so we had to go on this trip. The façade of this mock-Tudor building with its ages old timbers is absolutely beautiful and the inside doesn’t disappoint either with wood floors and an atrium that is always spectacularly decorated for the holidays. This merchant is known for its fabrics, housewares and fashion. Founded in 1875, Liberty supports new and emerging designers within its historic walls.

After wandering around Liberty, we headed over to Carnaby Street which is filled with specialty shops like Levi’s which we didn’t need to shop at, but I did visit Doc Martens, a British classic. Thom has a pair of these, purchased after he saw Bruce Springsteen wearing them at a concert (of course, right?), and I have always wanted a pair, so I finally decided to just go for it. YOLO and all. It helped that they had a really cool limited-edition Year of the Dragon tassel loafer style that I can’t wait to wear. Unfortunately, we took public transportation everywhere in London and you do NOT want to wear nice shoes on the Tube. On one Tube trip, a guy was asleep and had a latte on the floor precariously wedged between his feet and it eventually tipped over after a hard stop and spilled all over Thom’s shoes. Thom was just glad it wasn’t vomit but that experience convinced me that the Tube is not the best place for my beautiful new Docs.

REGULAR FOLK DEPARTMENT STORES

Your everyday Londoner does not shop at the fancy department stores like Harrod’s or, if they do, they are rich. Popular go-to places to get clothes for most people are Primark and Marks and Spencer. There are many locations of these stores all over town. Have fun buying reasonably priced outfits and accessories to take home.

SPECIALTY STORES

VINYL

Vinyl lovers should bring an empty suitcase in London. You could spend a week visiting all the vinyl stores located all over London. Check out this good list: 56 Best Record Stores in London by Neighborhood | Discogs – Record Stores.

On this trip, we checked out Third Man Records, which is musician Jack White’s cool space in Soho. “Mind your head” is not just a sign but a caution as the entry to the basement section of this shop has a very low doorway that unfortunately Thom had hard contact with resulting in a big bump on his head. Not only do they have vinyl but a nice assortment of merch and a book machine plus a jam (for playing music not eating a delightful spread for toast) area.

Every 1st and 3rd Friday of the month, go to the Vinyl Market (oldspitalfieldsmarket.com) to find some good bargains. On my last Girls Trip to London, I was able to find Thom a Bruce Springsteen concert bootleg album that seemed pretty rare. Score!

BOOKSTORES

The Hatchards Bookstore in Piccadilly was founded in 1797 and is London’s oldest bookshop and bookseller to the Royal households. When you sell merch to the Royals, a store gets to display a sign on the outside of their store that is a Royal Warrant. Hatchards has three Royal Warrants. They have lots of stores but the five-story location in Picadilly is the one to visit-it is beautiful and located next to Fortnum and Mason, one of my other favorite stores. It is also opposite the Royal Academy, which is worth a visit to see their museum (and a good place to use the bathrooms!).

Check the Hatchards online site for book signings. They also have in their assortment first and special edition books for the collectors. A book is always a good idea for yourself or to take home for a present.

OPTICAL STORES

MOSCOT Beak Street Shop in the Soho district has a fantastic assortment of frames to pick from. Thom and I both have sported Moscot frames in the past and they not only look great but are super well-made and comfortable. Buying frames wherever we travel is one of my favorite souvenirs. I take the frames home to my local Costco optical and get my prescription lenses put in. Every time I wear my new glasses, I remember my vacation!

On this trip, we discovered a new brand of frames that have lots of fashion styles to pick from at reasonable (about $150 GBP) prices. Buy Eyeglasses | Designer Eyeglasses For Men & Women – Jimmy Fairly (UK) has locations all over London and the suburbs like Hampstead. I love that they have an espresso machine in their stores and offer shots as you shop. Get all caffeinated up and buy some frames to take home!

MUSEUM GIFT SHOPS

I have to call out museum gift shops because I have gotten some of my favorite gifts there to take back home. Usually well priced, every museum in London has at least one if not multiple gift shops with everything from pillow covers (British Library) to Winston Churchill rubber duckies (Churchill Rooms) to booze (all of them have hard liquor including Buckingham Palace, which had an unusually large selection of sloe gin-why?). So, make sure you take time to check out the merch at the museums!

STREETS/NEIGHBORHOODS

Regent Street London – Shopping – Dining – Wellness (regentstreetonline.com) is a major shopping street in the West End of London. It runs from Waterloo place at the south end through Picadilly Circus and Oxford Circus to All Souls Church. Retailers who can afford this pricey real estate have their London flagship stores here. Check out technology at the Apple Store or the Microsoft Experience Center and then shop for fashion at practically every retailer you could want.

MARKETS

There are so many cool markets in London that you can’t possibly visit them all in one trip so every time we come, we try to at least go to one or two. On this trip, we made it to Covent Garden and Spitalfield’s. Come to these markets hungry and ready to shop. Enjoy the journey!

Thrift Shopping in London

Who doesn’t love a bargain? Whether you want to upcycle those thrift store finds or wear them as you find them to style an original look, London is the perfect place to find unique fashion pieces at great prices.

I’ve always loved shopping for unique items not only for the thrill of the “find” but also for affordability and sustainability. Instead of “throw away” cheap fashion like you would find at H & M and the chain stores which only really last for a few wearings before they are no longer in good shape, some of my finds have lasted for years for myself and the previous owners. A Levi denim shirt at a “boot” sale in London, jewelry galore, a vintage scarf, and lots more from this trip-so much that we had to buy more luggage to go home! Plus, instead of looking like everyone else, you are able to style a unique outfit that looks like no one else but you. We discovered two great stores next to each other in the Covent Garden neighborhood that you should definitely check out next time you are in London.

PICKNWEIGHT https://picknweight.de/pages/london

Whatever you are looking for, if you have the time and dedication to go through all the racks crammed full of items, you won’t be disappointed. PICKNWEIGHT sells their vintage and secondhand clothes by the kilo. Based on the color of the security tag, you pay a certain price. There are convenient weighing stations throughout the store with pricing signs so you can weigh your purchases before going to the register to see how much you are going to spend.  With stores all over Europe, this is obviously a popular concept. There was a wide variety of American brands like Levi’s, Carhartt, Dickies, and American sports team’s t-shirts and hats. We even found a Boise State University Broncos shirt, which is the college football team in our hometown in Idaho. We picked up a vintage t-shirt, denim shirt and sweater vest for about 50 GBP, which I felt was very reasonable.

Rokit Vintage Clothing

Vintage Clothing | Retro Clothing | Rokit Vintage Clothing

From Kate Moss to Amy Winehouse, Rokit Vintage Clothing has styled London celebrities; unique outfits for nearly 40 years. Starting in Camden Market and expanding to multiple locations in the UK, Rokit not only sells second-hand and vintage clothing but upcycles fashion into limited edition pieces they sell at their stores.

A much different shopping experience from the next door PICKNWEIGHT store, where racks are packed together and merchandise is displayed from top to bottom, Rokit has space to walk between the racks. Separated by categories, you can easily find what you might be looking for and each piece is individually priced. Here, Thom scored a black velvet tailored blazer that appeared to be never worn with pockets and back vents still stitched shut for only $55 GBP. He plans to style this jacket with jeans, a white t-shirt and his Docs. Perfect! I got a Joseph Abboud men’s denim shirt for $15 GBP, again in perfect condition.

Now, how to get all this good stuff home to Idaho?? The options were to ship or buy another piece of luggage and check it on the way home. I’m not a fan of checking luggage ever but for this trip being gone for over a month in the winter, we just had to check some and, because of my airline status, we didn’t pay to check 2 pieces of luggage each. So, it was much cheaper to buy a suitcase (at TJ Maxx or thrift store for under $50) which I have also had to do on every previous Girls Trip, rather than shipping a big box home. For our next trip to Italy in May and all future trips, we bought two collapsible bags that I’m sure we will fill up with all kinds of finds. No more luggage will fit in my basement! I plan to hit the resale stores in Milan, the fashion capital of Italy. Who knows what kinds of designer deals I’ll get???? Enjoy the journey!

Paris Shopping

Wandering the streets of Paris and popping in with a “Bonjour” to all the neighborhood shops is a true delight. You just never know what you will find! I will caution you that if you find a treasure, buy it. On my trips, there will be times I see something and pause to consider before making a spendy purchase. I’m still regretting not picking up a vintage Louis Vuitton bag I saw in a little store in the Marais. From grand department stores to quaint little shops to flea markets, enjoy the journey!

WHERE TO SHOP:

SHOPPING – COVERED PASSAGES FILLED WITH INTERESTING SHOPS

SHOPPING – DEPARTMENT STORES

MARKETS

VINYL (My husband’s addiction-we buy vinyl wherever we go from Amsterdam to Moscow)

SPECIALTY STORES

  • Paul Art & Design https://en.paulartetdesign.com/ a little shop at the bottom of the steps to Sacre Coeur filled with fun art design items that you will want to buy. Visit with the shop bulldog terrier (shown above) who inspires many of the designs.
  • Sobral at 76 Temple. Sobral jewelry creations are made of resin, by hand, in our eco-ethical workshops-laboratories where reuse and recycling are paramount. Each piece is unique and colorful. I like these pieces because they are unusual, not heavy and reasonably priced. Wished I had bought more when I was there.
  • Discounted last year fashion at:

BOOKSTORES

THE bookstore in Paris to go to is Shakespeare and Company https://www.shakespeareandcompany.com/ which is an English-language bookstore opened in 1951 and located on Paris’s Left Bank. Check on their website for special events such as author book readings. Buy a book and, when you purchase, ask them to stamp their “Shakespeare & Co.” logo in it. Great souvenir or gift for book lovers! The book pictured above was purchased for our granddaughter and will be cherished forever.

Value Added Tax (VAT) Refund

If you plan on shopping in France, you need to know about the Value Added Tax (VAT) so you can get some money back when you leave! It’s not that complicated so here are the guidelines:

  1. Must be 16 years old and not a citizen of European Union.
  2. Must have your actual passport with you to get the paperwork from the shop when you purchase over $100 euros of merchandise.
  3. Tell shop owner you want a “VAT Tax Refund Document”. The big luxury stores will definitely provide and fill it all out for you. Some smaller shop owners may not do it but instead sometimes they offer a discount on your purchase. Ask for it!
  4. Submit your VAT refund paperwork at the airport or rail station-go to the website of wherever you are leaving from to find out where the VAT refund office is located.
  5. You may have to drop the paperwork in a box and it will be processed within 90 days OR there may be a staff person there to scan it and process it immediately. Depends on the place. Credit goes back on credit card you purchased it on.

Florence Artisan Shopping Tour-Girls Trip 2021

Shopping is always on the itinerary for any Girls Trip. In Florence, our ARBNB was located in the artist epicenter of Florence called the Oltrarno, so we decided to go on a tour of local artisans, see them in action, and buy directly from the person making the beautiful creations. Artisan day! When we are crafting our itineraries for our Girls Trip, we try to have each person pick one “must do” activity. Patti picked this tour as her activity for us because she is an artist, excelling in sewing, knitting, drawing, etc. Designing a curated trip just for us focusing on women artists, the ArtViva tour folks asked for direction in what we wanted to see, and we shared that we were primarily interested in leather and jewelry making. Our expert guide, Maria, picked us up at our ARBNB and took us on a walking tour to local artisans in our Oltrarno neighborhood.

Leathermaking:

Frau Leman creates her own leather and fabric handbags, luggage and accessory designs. Each piece is handcrafted by her in her cozy studio/shop. She took time to explain to us the different types of leather and why she picks a certain kind for each of her designs. She weaves in colors to all her pieces even if the outside is all one color, adding a pop of color to the lining or the side vents. After talking to artists like Frau Leman, I appreciate even more the time it takes to design and actually create the unique pieces they sell. Of course, we wanted to support these local artisans, so we just had to make some Christmas gift purchases while we were there. We also have their information now if we want to buy items online and have them shipped to use in the US. Frau Leman Firenze Leathergoods (@frauleman) • Instagram photos and videos via della Chiesa 21R

The other main leather shopping we did on our trip was at the Florence leather school Scuola del Cuoio. I’ve visited there several times and always come away with beautifully handcrafted items for myself and others. On the last visit, I scored a multi-color (black and red) glass case that I got monogrammed in gold (for free and done on site as you wait after you purchase). My sister ordered holiday presents for her office staff and had them shipped to the US (free shipping if you spend over $120 euros). Unique and high quality, there is something for everyone at the leather school. From bookmarks and leather bracelets to belts, journals and higher ticket items like their icon bag (which I want to get on my next trip!) to leather jackets. The shop is tucked away and hard to find but well worth it! You won’t be disappointed.

Jewelry:

NAA Studio showcased typical Florentine jewelry with stamping on silver. The artist had an intern from the design school working for her to hone her trade. The intricate designs showcase the history of jewelry in Florence and Italy. One thing I noticed about the artisans is that their work is typically focused on one specialty that they are experts at like leather handbags or silver jewelry.

Ginevra Gemmi incorporates earthy and sculptural jewels shaped into earrings, rings and necklaces in silver, bronze and rough stones. She also photographs nature to showcase and inspire her designs even using the actual organic material such as leaves as her base, molding the metals around the leaves to get that natural look. You get a sense that she loves her little workshop/store space and enjoys talking to customers. Her puppy is her assistant and greets customers when not taking copious amounts of naps.  I now own several of Ginevra’s designs-a braided bronze ring and hummingbird earrings. I’m sure these won’t be the last artistic pieces I collect from her! Ginevra Gemmi Gioielli (@ginevra.gemmi.gioielli) • Instagram photos and videos via della Chiesa 29 Rosso

Our guide Maria pivoted quickly when we told her mid-tour that we would like to see some modern jewelry design too. She quickly jumped on the phone with her contacts and arranged for us to go by the Angela Caputi store in the neighborhood. The designer herself was at the workshop with her team. It was a very special moment when she stopped and talked with us through our guide as the interpreter. We even got a selfie! Her creations are inspired from American movies of the 1940’s as well as her long-standing passion for fashion. Her worldwide reputation has been displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York and at the V & A Museum in London. Her creations have also been seen in many films and on the runways. She has six boutiques that sell her work including the one we visited in Florence. I admire her style-the white hair, the black dress, the unique eyeglass frames and, of course, her jewelry.  She uses bold designs and colors with simple materials such as synthetic resins. I am very happy to say that I now own several jewelry pieces from Angelia Caputi and get compliments on them every time I wear them! Shop Angela Caputi jewelry https://www.angelacaputi.com/en/ via S. Spirito 58R

Local Market:

After all this shopping, we stopped for a caffeine boost at a café on Piazza Santo Spirito where a market takes place every morning. From clothing to hardware to vegetables, the tables were full of hidden treasures that are sold to the Oltrarno locals. I jumped right in and found a beautiful vintage scarf for a few euros and Patti got a lovely leather bag for less than 20 euros. We also bought some figs to take back to the ARBNB, which were the most amazing figs I have ever tasted. When in Florence, take time to go to a local market and explore.

Whether you want to take a tour to meet and watch the artists create or just want to wander the Oltrarno on your own, sticking your head into any shop that catches your interest, don’t miss this special experience in Florence. Most artists will welcome your interest and explain their artistic process if they have time. They will certainly appreciate your purchases to help support their efforts. Enjoy the journey!

London Shopping-Girls Trip 2022

We had timed our Girls Trip 2022 to occur in mid-November after London had turned on their spectacular Christmas lights. I’ve travelled all over the world but never have I ever seen a big city light up like London does for the holidays. Streets are strung with lights, entire building facades are decorated, and don’t even get me started on the decorations in the classic huge department stores like Harrod’s. It is THE most wonderful time to visit London, a city I’ve visited many times over the years.

We had an entire day dedicated to shopping and checking out the department stores all decked out in their holiday finest. We started with the iconic Harrod’s where you can buy anything from very expensive designer items to tasty treats in the food court and affordable souvenirs in the basement where the tourist shop. I had to buy an extra suitcase for my Harrod’s Paddington Bear.

After the splendor of Harrod’s, we grabbed a taxi from the convenient taxi stand next to the store. Many stores are within walking distance of each other once you get from Harrod’s to Oxford Street. Luckily, the big department stores all have cafes and places to relax and sit. Shopping is exhausting work! We walked between these landmark stores:

  • Selfridge’s on Oxford Street – six floors encompassing 10 acres
  • Fenwick’s on Bond Street – from furniture to clothing, they have it all
  • Liberty of London on Regent Street – especially magical for anyone who sews and loves fabrics
  • Carnaby Street an entire street filled with specialty shops and cafes
  • Fortnum and Mason known for their selection of tea, biscuits, preserves which make great gifts

One of our tour guides clued us in to look for the signs above shop entrances that indicate that they supply goods to the Royal family. I guess it is quite the honor. These are primarily small bespoke stores like tailors, hat stores, hunting clothes, etc. For those who aren’t on a Royal budget, check out Marks & Spencer or the Primark department stores around town-these are where the average citizen shops for clothes. We loaded up on bargains for ourselves and gifts at these stores. Patti even bought a coat to wear home!

We also hit the markets to shop and eat-when in London, visit at least one or more!

  • Spitalfields Market-go to the The Flat Iron across from the market for lunch or choose from a wide assortment of food from the stalls in the market. There is great shopping at the market with everything from vintage clothes to vinyl to gift items.
  • Covent Garden Market has been around since 1845 for wonderful food and shopping and is especially lovely at the holidays. We stopped into the Punch and Judy pub in Covent Garden market for classic fish and chips with mushy peas. The showstopper though was the sticky pudding-heaven in your mouth.

After a hectic day filled with shopping, we rested our tired legs and enjoyed the treats on Brigit’s Bus Tea Tour. We were on the first Christmas lights bus of the season. Touring all around town while sipping on tea/hot chocolate/champagne, we sampled the treats wearing our paper crowns and singing holiday carols. The perfect ending to a perfect day in London.

I highly recommend going to London in mid-November-less crowded, beautiful decorations and fantastic shopping. The trifecta for a perfect Girls Trip!

Unique Souvenirs in Rome

Prior to going on any trip, I search out videos to watch about the place we plan to visit. YouTube is my go-to place but I happened to view “Bobby and Giada in Italy” on the Food Network to prepare for our trip to Rome. On one of the episodes, Giada visits an artist right around the corner from her mother’s apartment in Rome to find a gift for Bobby. This cool shop, La Bottega del Marmoraro, is her favorite place to go (and now mine!) to get personalized gifts from Sandro Fiorentina, a marble craftsman and true Italian artisan.

For a truly unique souvenir, I highly recommend you take a stroll to 53 Via Margutta and order a handmade one-of-a-kind marble plaque to bring home for yourself and others. Entering this artisan’s workshop filled with treasures is an experience you won’t forget. Be prepared with your order on a piece of paper in Italian-any translator app will do this for you. Sandro doesn’t speak very much English, so I researched in advance what I wanted on my customized marble signs: “sisters” in Italian for my sisters who visited Italy with me on a Girls Trip the prior year and “Goditi il Viaggio” aka “Enjoy the Journey” for myself because that is the motto I strive to live by.

Using some hand gestures to indicate the size of the sign I wanted, we settled on a date I would come back to get the finished products. Order your treasures early in your Rome stay to allow time for them to be custom made. My order took two days to complete but perhaps Sandro won’t be so busy when you visit, and it will take less time. The price was very reasonable for such a unique gift. If you don’t have time for a custom order, Sandro does have a vast assortment of signs already made with common sayings that you can purchase. So, get your translator app out and find a souvenir with a saying on it that speaks to you to take home immediately.

As with any trip, always leave room in your luggage for souvenirs to take home! I tried shipping wine/olive oil home from Italy on a previous trip, and it took months and there was damage enroute so I wouldn’t recommend that approach. My favorite souvenir for myself, besides Sandro’s sign, is jewelry (from local artisans if possible). It’s lightweight and easy to pack. I got an amazing necklace for $25euros at a little boutique by our hotel in Rome. Don’t be afraid to get off the tourist trail and seek out hidden gems. You won’t regret it. Enjoy the journey!

Amsterdam Shopping-Boutiques and Books and Vinyl, oh my!

Amsterdam is filled with quaint specialty boutiques in all the alleys and cobblestone streets…a shoppers paradise!  We love to wander in and out and soak up the quirkiness of it all.  So different from the grand, oversized stores in the US, these teeny tiny storefronts are hardly over 100-200 sq. feet–a closet really-but a closet filled with very specialized and focused wares to tempt and delight shoppers. From bead shops to teeth shops to bow ties, they have it all for you in Amsterdam.

The “all things teeth” shop featured every kind of toothbrush, floss, etc. you could imagine with a ferris wheel display in the window.   How cool is that???  Next door, a gorgeous house cat calmly watched over the huge assortment of bow ties in every color and pattern, all tied up and ready to be worn.

Boutiques specialize-bow ties, of course, with a house cat guarding at the shop.
Boutiques specialize-bow ties, of course, with a house cat guarding at the shop.

Toothbrush boutique with a ferris wheel in the window to showcase the goods.
Toothbrush boutique with a ferris wheel in the window to showcase the goods.

Moving on to the Toms Store, which was slightly larger and featured a coffee bar as well, I saw a few items for my Christmas list and Thom’s.  We love their shoes and can feel good buying from them as they give a pair of shoes for every one that is bought.  Great story if you haven’t already read the book that the Toms creator has written about his idea to give back and still run a successful retail business.  Wouldn’t it be great if everyone did this?

American Bookstore had multiple floors and an author signing going on when we visited
American Bookstore had multiple floors and an author signing going on when we visited

Toms...love them and their retail concept.  Give back and provide quality goods.  Sold!
Toms…love them and their retail concept. Give back and provide quality goods. Sold!

Along with the many boutiques, I have never seen so many bookstores–little and big ones–some Dutch only and others, like the American Bookstore, featuring English titles.  Rarely have I seen such an immense and impressive collection of books other than perhaps the Strand in NYC.  Multiple levels with deep stock in each topic, we were lucky enough to happen upon (as we always seem to do) an author event with a writer by the name of Charles Stross, a British writer of science fiction, Lovecraftian (?) horror and fantasy.  He was very articulate and funny–hoping he swings by Elliot Bay Books in Seattle soon!  Alas, the luggage will not accommodate one more item so no books were bought unfortunately.

Books galore at the American Bookstore!
Books galore at the American Bookstore!

Today we visited the vinyl stores in our neighborhood of Jordaan.  There are many in Amsterdam-such a variety that a local magazine had a double spread article detailing the music havens where you can buy vinyl, new and used for $3 to $40 euros.  Quite the large assortment to pick from at places like Second Life Music across from our hotel and VelvetMusic and InDeep’n’Dance both on Rozengracht.  It hurt to watch Thom thumb through the vast crates of music and know he couldn’t buy any to bring home.  Oh well-he has quite collection already so he will live. Harsh but true!

Just make sure you leave enough room in your luggage when you come to Amsterdam so that you can buy some cool jazz or soul vinyl or a stack of books to bring back with you.  Of course, if you are needing a unique toothbrush or bow tie, that doesn’t take up quite as much room so shop away I say!  There is something for everyone here in Amsterdam.

Bargaining Should Be An Olympic Sport

Today we ventured out to the AP “fake” market in Shanghai under the #2 subway line in Pudong.  We have been there many times to buy pearls, sports jerseys, Rolex watches, LV bags, etc.  I see bargaining for the lowest possible price as a sport.  I just wish it was an Olympic sport because I would totally own a Gold Medal.

Our mission was hunting for stylish yet waterproof rain boots for me.  With my commute of 1.3 miles each way to/from work and no taxis in sight when it rains, I am tired of stepping in the lakes that form quickly in the streets resulting from the city planners–shocker ahead–obviously not realizing that it rains heavily in Shanghai many months of the year. Where the hell did they imagine all that water was going to go???

Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market
Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market

Anyway, we went straight to our “shoe lady” who has sold us many a Converse-like shoe in the past.  She gives us the local price not the laowai inflated price and she has a nice smile.  Today, James found some nice leather sneaks but, after trying on hideous Croc-like rubber boats to keep my feet dry, we had to keep looking.  The popular Hunter boots were everywhere but I’ve had those (Hannah now looks splendid in them) and they’re just too hot and heavy for Shanghai.  Unfortunately, nothing else really else presented itself except a leopard plastic boot that I just couldn’t bring myself to like.  So, after heavy negotiating I got a short version of the Hunter mock lizard which will make my feet sweat like a bitch but perhaps will be waterproof–with the fakes, you never know what quality you’re getting until you wear/wash them.  They may last and they may not.  I told the guy I lived in Shanghai and would be back in his face if my feet got wet wearing his boots that I got for 160RMB.   He just smiled and waved goodbye.  He has no idea what’s in his future if my feet aren’t happy in the next monsoon.  Watch out mister!

Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market
Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market

Since my birthday was this past week and I ended up sick instead of celebrating, I decided to treat myself and give Sarah’s Pearls a visit because I just know they miss my bargaining like a mule which makes Thom cringe.  After seeing a long turquoise(like) and silver necklace, I knew it would look super with a simple black dress so into the lovely sequin bag it went for only 100 RMB–she started at 280 RMB.  Like a mule I am!

After negotiating for a brightly patterned pillow cover–I do have a serious pillow fetish for our boring beige couches–we started looking at custom made trench coats to accompany my new rain boots.  I’ll have to do some research on styles but I shopped for pricing and found I could get one for about 600 RMB (down from 2400) custom made in a few days.  SOLD!  Can’t wait to go back and order when my friend Patti visits.  I’m sure she’ll want some custom clothes too and I can get a better deal if we buy multiple items.  I truly do deserve a Gold Medal in bargaining because I save so much money that I can just keep on shopping, shopping, shopping!

Doc Martens, pink fur & plaid-Shanghainista Style!

Never having been to China before I moved here four months ago, I couldn’t have imagined the super trendy Shanghainista scene I have found here…from the coolest shoes (including lots of handmade shoe stores) to fur galore to an obsession with lace/plaid hipster outfits, I am loving all the diversity, even if I can’t pull off wearing every trend I see or agree with where it originated.

Let’s start with the touchy subject of fur-yes, it’s real here and no, you can’t tell from WP_20131228_032WP_20131228_009WP_20131228_010

what animal it came from but probably most are outlawed in the U.S.  From regular brown tones to the wild and crazy pink, purple and you name it, you can find it because the fur is flying everywhere inWP_20131229_042WP_20140103_001 Shanghai.  Once upon a time, I had a full length fur coat because it was the “thing” to wear in NYC and I spent a whole month’s salary to buy one to look cool.  It weighed a ton and smelled nasty when it got wet but I felt like a million bucks wearing it and thankfully never got paint thrown on me by a protestor.  I would never wear one now but I can relate to the status of it (very big here in China) and the warmth of it as well.  You can even buy fur pelts right on the street—name your price, guess your species.  Again, not my cup of tea but it is very common in China to see these street pelt vendors, especially in Beijing.

The scope of fashionable shoes here does surprise me because most people have hefty commutes with lots of walking.  Believe me, there is a reason that foot massages are part of every day life here.  After you walk a mile in stiletto’s, your tootsies are crying out to be rubbed for an hour or so with hot oil.  Looking good here takes precedent over comfort (not for me, of course, but for fashionable people-I keep my heels at the office and wear ugly “pillows of heaven” Uggs for the commute).  Besides the high heels, though, Doc Martens are featured everywhere right now in fabulous bright colors and patterns.  WP_20131223_040I’m tempted to buy a pair to make a statement ANDWP_20131223_033 still be able to walk miles on the streets of Shanghai, as Thom and I love to do on the weekends.  Yes, I’m probably too old to wear them but who cares!  I’m imagining some thick soled, neon patterned or polka dot suckers worn with black tights (yes, going to the gym is paramount to this look) and a black skirt with a bright wool jacket…also needing to be purchased.  The coats here are adorable but not necessarily warm so I haven’t found the right one yet but I will keep on looking.

Then, there is the whole plaid/lace fashionista thing going on with whole stores devoted to this type of outfit.  Let’s face it, you have to be petite and below a size 4 to pull this type of look off and look adorable.  WP_20131223_028WP_20131223_027Thus, the reason you don’t see these stores in the U.S. where the average size is a 12 not a 4.  I find here that I am no longer a size 6/small but have graduated to a size 10/medium if I’m lucky and that’s at a nicer European store like Zara….again, another reason to make you want to go to the gym and stay there for awhile.  That being said, I could never pull off the plaid/lace look but I do appreciate all the styling that goes into it with multiple layers, jewelry, boots, tights, hats, etc.   It’s not easy to be a fashionista and when I see a great outfit styling, I appreciate all the work that went into completing the image.  Who knows—maybe I’ll have to crank up my shopping and styling to keep up with the Shanghainistas but I draw the line at pink fur!

Shanghai Sassy & Stubborn as a Mule

“You stubborn as a mule, Lady!” Really??? My husband later called the stall vendor a shaman for knowing me so well after a short, tough negotiation session for a jade Buddha I wanted. After the mule reference, he turned flirty and called me his girlfriend and told James that he was lucky to have me as his Mom. Then, talking man to man with Thom, he shook his head and said, “You get to go home with her!” and I’m not sure if he was saying that in a good way or a bad way but I think he respected my sassy and firm style of negotiating.  In all fairness to my new friend, many of my ex-bosses have called me stubborn as a bulldog but, again, I always took that in a positive way, probably because a bulldog is cuter than a mule or that could just be me rationalizing but I digress.

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Our Sunday was spent wandering Dongtai Antique Market (or Diagon Alley which is what it looked like to me–I expected to see a wand store at any time), I bargained hard for lots of cool treasures. Thom wanted a large and extremely heavy stone horse statue to celebrate the Year of the Horse coming up in 2014–got it for 150RMB (starting price I think was around 800RMB).   Thom had a moment of panic when we got home and he wiped the grime off the horse and it changed colors…oops!  It changed back when it dried but Thom is now threatening to put it out on the balcony so it can accumulate smog dirtiness and restore it’s antique luster.

James had a hankering for dragons (probably because we just watched The Hobbit Desolation of Smaug at home on DVD and, yes, it is still in the U.S. theaters) so I negotiated for him and got an intricate dragon statue and a dragon pocket watch as well as some beads and figurines for his friends back home. I also started our Beijing Opera mask collection with the goal to get several and hang on our wall.   They are so colorful and full of emotion.  So many treasures, so little time!

In between shopping, we enjoyed a vendor serenading us and watched some serious mah jong being played. Ahhhhhh….Sunday in Shanghai is a treat for the senses.

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