Enjoying Monet’s Musee Marmottan in Paris-Girls Trip 2023

One day we were at Giverny seeing Monet’s home and gardens and the next day we were at the Musee Marmottan seeing all the artwork that Monet’s son donated from Giverny so that the public could enjoy it and enjoy it we did on Girls Trip 2023 in Paris!

On the far west side of Paris where the tour buses don’t often go, the Musee Marmottan is rarely crowded and houses an extensive Monet collection that you most likely haven’t seen before. I’ve been to museums all over the world and always seek out any Monets they have on display, but this is definitely a rare collection that any Monet lover should see at least once. There were two paintings of his children-he had eight! There is also a collection of paintings done as he lost his vision, so the coloring is very different from his blues/greens of earlier periods. These paintings are much more vibrant in tones of red and yellows. In addition to the Monets (all on the lowest level), the house is filled with other works of art to be appreciated. Enjoy the journey!

I learned that the term “Impressionism” was coined by an art critic in a review of Monet’s piece, “Impression, Sunrise”, (pictured below), which hangs in Musee Marmottan. According to Wikipedia, Impressionism was a 19th-century art movement characterized by relatively small, thin, yet visible brush strokes, open composition, emphasis on accurate depiction of light in its changing qualities (often accentuating the effects of the passage of time), ordinary subject matter, unusual visual angles, and inclusion of movement as a crucial element of human perception and experience. Impressionism originated with a group of Paris-based artists whose independent exhibitions brought them to prominence during the 1870s and 1880s.

PLAN YOUR VISIT

The Musee Marmottan is open Tuesday-Sunday (closed Mondays as are many museums in Paris!) 10-6 but open late on Thursdays. Though I have been to this museum several times and it has never been busy, I like to go first thing in the morning or in the evening on Thursday. It’s so wonderful to go to a beautiful museum in Paris and not experience it crowded in with a million tourists’ shoulder to shoulder! Buy tickets online or at the museum. No gardens to work through so this is a great place to visit on a rainy Paris day. I would put aside several hours to enjoy all that this museum has to offer. The gift shop is nice but as well curated as the one at Giverny if you are a shopper.

Address: 2, rue Louis-Boilly, 75016 Paris – France

Public transportation:

Métro

line 9, stop: La Muette or Ranelagh

RER

line C, stop: Boulainvilliers

Buses

Line 22, stop: La Muette–Boulainvilliers

Line 32, stop: Louis Boilly or Ranelagh

Line 52, stop: La Muette–Boulainvilliers

Line 63, stop: Porte de la Muette

Line 70, stop : Louis-Boilly

Line P.C. 1, stop: Ernest Hebert or Porte de Passy

Monet’s Giverny-Girls Trip 2023

There are times to strike out on your own to explore while on vacation. There are other times when it makes sense to let someone else do the driving and handle all the details. Visiting Giverny on our Girls Trip 2023 was one of those times! After navigating our way around Paris by bus, Metro, walking, and an occasional taxi and Uber, we decided to book a guided bus tour to Giverny. In order to be efficient with our limited time in Paris, the 90-minute one-way bus ride from Paris to Giverny seemed to be better for us than a multi-hour Metro then RER train ride each way. The downfall of the tour was the early start time, which meant meeting our tour group at 8 am all the way across town, but it was all worthwhile once we gazed upon Monet’s lily ponds. Yes, it’s just that beautiful-see my photos below.

Uber works well in Paris, so we only had a short wait for our ride to pick us up from the apartment and take us to the tour meeting spot. The tour group arranged to meet at a cafe near the Eiffel Tower. Using the cafe facilities was essential because the bus had no restrooms. Our tour guide, Alex, was French but spoke excellent English. You book your tour group based on the language you want. As we drove to Giverny, Alex told us all about Monet, his family and stories of his successes and struggles. You could choose to sleep on the trip or use the headphones they provide to hear the tour guide. Good system. I listened. Becky slept. Seats reclined and seatbelts were required. Wish I had taken my travel blanket to be a little cozier on the trip!

Gliding along through the foggy and forested Paris countryside, I learned Monet grew up in Normandy, spent time in Algeria but got sick and returned to France to raise his family and work. Harmony, love and peace are all themes I see in Monet’s works, which is probably why he is my favorite artist. Seeing where he painted, it is not surprising to me that his home and grounds inspired him to create such beautiful, serene works of art.

Upon arrival at Giverny, our bus parked in the lot close to the estate and off we went to immerse ourselves in all things Monet. I had been there before with Thom, so I knew what to expect and looked forward to experiencing it again. Walking around the gardens and over the bridge at the water lily ponds, you feel like you are inside a famous Monet painting. It was still crowded with tourists, but we slowly made our way around taking so many pictures because everywhere you look, it is just so beautiful. The walk around the gardens ends at Monet’s house which you can walk through or just go straight to the large gift store like Becky did to shop to your heart’s content. Their selection of Monet themed items is extensive and well-priced so be prepared to find many “must have” items. I got another pillow for my travel collection, a kitchen towel and a mousepad, all of which I see daily to remind me of this special place.

Monet had eight kids and his house was large enough for his family. The paintings on the walls now are not originals. Monet’s son donated the entire art collection from the Giverny estate to the Marmottan – Monet Museum — Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, which houses the largest collection of Monet’s works and is another must see if you are a Monet fan. It’s a smaller museum housed in a beautiful building that tourists don’t usually frequent. We went there the day after our Giverny trip-another blog to come on that fabulous museum. Enjoy the journey!

TRAVEL TIP:

This is the tour that we took: From Paris: Giverny Day Trip with Audio Guide or Live Guide | GetYourGuide. I think it was well worth the $79 euros per person for the transportation convenience, estate entrance fees plus the guide’s storytelling on the history and stories of Monet. She really made the Monet experience come to life. I’m a Monet lover but never knew the details of his life. I enjoyed the fascinating stories of this colorful character!

Cautionary tale: If the tour guide says to meet at a certain time to leave or you will be left behind, they mean it. They have a schedule to keep to and they do keep it. So, plan your “free time” they give you so that you’re not standing in the toilette line when the bus is pulling out. Bye, bye! Our group left two people behind who weren’t punctual. What happened to them? Well, depending on how travel savvy they were, they could have texted or called the tour company and asked for forgiveness and inquired how they could get back to Paris. The afternoon tour could have offered them a ride home if they didn’t mind waiting five hours. If not, they’re would have been on their own to rent a taxi from Giverny to the train in the nearby town of Vernon to get back to Paris.

Paris Transportation-Girls Trip 2023

On the first day of our Girls Trip 2023, we went to the nearest Metro aka subway station in Paris and got our Navigo Decouverte card. Luckily, I had done the research and knew to go to the nearest Metro station (not a stop-you can tell the difference because a “station” has a name vs. just a Metro stop that has no sign). Even with no French language skills (despite months of trying to learn!), I was able to show the station attendant my picture for the card that I had brought, and he immediately knew that I wanted the Navigo Decouverte card. The card works on all public transportation for a week running from Monday through Sunday.

We arrived on a Sunday, so later in the day when we returned to the station to take the Metro to Montmartre, our passes weren’t working. The same worker was still on duty and called us over to patiently explain to the stupid American that the card didn’t start on a Monday, and we would have to buy paper tickets for individual rides until our passes became effective on Monday. So, I bought a book of 10 tickets for our use on Sunday ($20euros) and off we went!

As we made our way to the platform, we noticed a huge group of people waiting to board the train. Someone was saying there was a problem with that train and sure enough the doors closed with no passengers and off it went. The next train to arrive was, of course, then packed with people who had been waiting. In the crush, Becky and I got on and Patti did not. Oops! She was just too nice to elbow her way in while the Hoyt girls had no issues at all working our way onto the crowded car. When the doors closed with Patti still on the platform and us on the train, we quickly pantomimed to take it to the next stop where we could meet up. Then suddenly an alarm sounded, and the doors opened as someone had gotten their backpack caught in the doors and they had to open the doors to release it. (Metro warning sign below warns you not to get your body parts or bags caught in the doors!) Patti jumped in quickly and off we went on our Paris adventure. Yes, we still masked up (do you see how crowded it is!) and we did not get Covid on our trip. Yeah for vaccines and masks!

We also used the excellent bus system to get around Paris. We used various apps to review our route and find our nearest bus stop. Did we get lost and take the wrong bus? Of course! This type of mistake can be viewed as additional sightseeing time in Paris. We got dumped off at Gare de Nord train station, which is not the loveliest neighborhood to be walking around, but luck was on our side as we quickly found a bus headed in the right direction and jumped on. Make sure you look at the front of the bus to see if the route destination on the top reader board of the bus is indeed the one you want. Once on the bus, there is usually but not always an electronic sign that shows the next stop so you can time when to get off the bus. If that isn’t working, then make sure you are following each stop and comparing to the bus route sign that is posted in every bus. Don’t be intimidated-hop a ride and see the city. Enjoy the journey!

TRAVEL TIPS: when you are in a group travelling by Metro, have a plan in case someone gets left behind. It happens! Make sure to stay tight, lock arms and push on together to get to where you are going. I learned this lesson from riding the China subways where overcrowding is prevalent. One time I even had to lock arms with a stranger to push our way through a mob to avoid getting trampled. All this never scared me off public transportation. You just have to be aware and take appropriate actions to survive!

To buy the Navigo Decouverte card, bring with you to Paris a color headshot photo 3cm tall x 2.5cm wide that you provide to the Metro worker to attach to your card. More info here: https://parisbytrain.com/paris-train-metro-week-pass-navigo-decouverte/#google_vignette

Tap to pay using your transportation card to get through the gates of the Metro or the payment machine on the bus. Note: it doesn’t make a sound or give you a green check on the Metro gate-just tap and push through. If you double tap, you will get a red “X” warning, and you will not be able to get through. This is because they want to prevent people from using their Metro card once and then handing it to a friend to use next. If you get the red X and can’t get through, go to the manned Service counter (if there is one at that station) and they can let you in through the manual gate. If you are not at a staffed Service station, then you will have to go to the machine and buy a ticket to get through and continue your journey.

Alternatives to public transportation: Uber works well in Paris, and we used it when not on public transportation. At night coming home from the Moulin Rouge or the Trocadero after seeing the Eiffel Tower at night, those Ubers did come in handy. We rarely waited more than five minutes to get our ride. If you are out just walking around and decide to get an Uber, just find a cafe to use as your location so the Uber can easily locate you!

Several times we did wave down a taxi on the street that had a green light on but don’t count on that. I would recommend you download the G7 app that allows you to book a ride up to 14 days in advance or use for on demand rides! Different levels of services are available, and you can choose the one you want when you order your ride. Payment can be made via the app or with the driver.

TOP TRAVEL APPS TO FIND YOUR WAY AROUND PARIS

Rome2Rio: discover how to get anywhere is an app that I have used in many different European places and all across the US. My favorite app! You just input that you want to go from Point A to Point B and it searches any city, town, landmark, attraction or address across the globe with thousands of routes to easily get you from A to B. It gives you timetables and estimated pricing for all types of transportation-tram, bus, subway, train, taxi, etc. If you decide to walk, it tells you how long it will take and helps guide you around that way too.

Citymapper – The Ultimate Transport App Citymapper is a free public transit app with mapping that displays transport options, usually with live timing, between any two locations in a supported city.  Similar to Rome2Rio but very helpful for getting around by any means of transportation from e-scooters to walking to biking to subways. I like this app best for getting around by foot.

Google Maps can be used to navigate around town. This is the app my husband likes best.

Experiencing the Moulin Rouge-Girls Trip 2023

“Your hair is tres magnifique!” Well, thank you very much Mr. Moulin Rouge Bouncer. After complimenting my coiffure, he let our group into the lobby more than one hour before our show time. We showed up WAY early. My research indicated that you must queue up early because it is first come, first serve to get the best seats since we didn’t order dinner and had no seat assignments. Well, by the time we stood in line and got back to the table concierge who was assigning the seats, he took one look at our tickets and told us we would have to leave and come back in 20 minutes. Oops-the bouncer was distracted by my hair and messed up. It happens. I pleaded that they had sent us back to be seated and it wasn’t our fault. Worked like a charm and we got to sit in the lovely bar area right by the main hall to wait our turn with a kind gent giving me a complimentary wine and some Parisian potato chips. Ooh la la! We started chatting with one of the tour guides who was also hanging out there and he took our picture before we finally were summoned to go to our teeny tiny table wedged into the first balcony. The adventure began!

The Paris icon, Moulin Rouge, which translates to “Red Mill”, was built in 1889 the same year as the Eiffel Tower and it was on Patti’s “must see” list for our Girls Trip 2023. It is situated below the Montmartre neighborhood in Pigalle. This famous cabaret show features elaborately dressed topless show girls. Yes, it is expensive and not everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s been around for over a hundred years so it’s legendary. Patti has extensive costume design experience, and she spent the show marveling at all the finery and wondering how chaotic the backstage was with all the costume changes. You wouldn’t think that it would be so complicated when the top half is largely bare but the headpieces, elaborate appendages (think huge lips or feather tendrils) alone are complicated. I wish I could share pictures of every one of the costumes. Alas, while pictures before the show were supposed to be taboo, the staff mostly looked the other way. However, no pictures were allowed once the show started, and customers complied.

What’s in the show? Well, Moulin Rouge is well known for the Can Can and the bare ta tas and g-strings but it’s so much more. There are 20-30 beautiful showgirls, all thin and all with long ponytails. No diversity to speak of in the cast. There are about 10-20 guys who lift up the dancers and who keep on their colorful outfits. No bare skin on the boys! All of the cast is very talented whether dancing, singing or performing various feats of gymnastics or ballet. In between the singing/dancing showgirl numbers, there are skilled acts to allow time for the cast to change. These skilled acts were marvelous and included two male gymnasts with incredible moves lifting up one in various poses requiring muscles of steel and a lovely interpretative dance.

One scary act (at least for those watching!) involved two roller skaters on a small round platform on the stage with the male twirling around the female crazy fast. A good reason to not sit in the main section by the stage where those who buy dinner sit. At any moment with one wrong move, that woman would have gone flying into the crowd, steel wheels gouging your eyes out. I held my breath for that act, but they were amazing. If you don’t like people being held by a wire flying close over your head, don’t sit too close to the stage as a charming couple sang a song while flying barely above the crowd. Same goes for getting wet…yes, the dance floor (to use when the pre-show band entertains) becomes a huge water tank rising out of the floor during the show. The topless dancer fell into the pool (you knew that was coming!) and the mermaid entertained AND cooled down the audience with water flying everywhere nearby.

The showgirl numbers feature a wide variety of music-everything from disco Gloria Gaynor’s I Will Survive to big band hits like In The Mood, which was my mom and dad’s song. I felt like they were there with my sisters and I. Dad would have loved the show and my mom would have blushed at the skimpy costumes while she sipped Sidecars. I miss my mom and dad and think of them often when travelling. I wish they could have seen more of the world when they were alive. I certainly plan to! #YOLO

We didn’t book the dinner package, though it looked pretty good as the servers went by. We also didn’t get a bottle of champagne, a popular package. Instead, we went ala carte, and I ordered a glass of wine ($15) and Patti got a cocktail ($20). Enjoy the journey!

Travel tips:

  • The tables are very close together with no room to pass by without everyone standing up, so plan ahead to go to the facilities before the show starts. Once the show begins, there is really no getting up from your table without really inconveniencing everyone in your way between your table and the exit.
  • As soon as house lights come up hit “reserve” for an Uber. There were lots of available Ubers when we were there but it was a mad dash to get to street to find ours and yes, it was chaos with the early show getting out and the late show crowd arriving. We crossed the street and managed to find our Uber circling around looking for us.

Show Details

At the Moulin Rouge, shows run every day of the week and there are 2 shows every day:

  • 9 pm show with optional dinner starting at 7 pm (dinner show ticket holders will get the best seats)
  • 11 pm show only no dinner available

Plan to arrive early! These shows are usually sold out, so arrive at the entrance one hour before the time of your show. Doors close ten minutes before the start of the show and you won’t be allowed to enter if you arrive late. There is no refund policy for Moulin Rouge tickets. Plan your transportation and allow, as always, for the Paris traffic jams that are bad at all hours.

Buy your Moulin Rouge tickets as soon as you book your travel dates. You never know when travel groups will suck up all the available tickets, as this show is always on their itineraries. You can buy direct from Moulin Rouge (Official Website) for tickets for all showtimes and options. If, for whatever reason, you don’t want to buy the tickets there, you can also book through Viator:  Paris Moulin Rouge Cabaret Show with Champagne Only or Dinner 2023 (viator.com) but not all options like the 9 pm show are available.

Getting there

Of course, you can walk there or take the Metro aka subway. I prefer to get around Paris during the day by walking or Metro. However, you’ll be there in the evening and the Pigalle neighborhood is probably not the best place to wander around late at night. Known for being a tourist magnet, you can imagine that all kinds of folks would frequent here around showtimes to take advantage of people visiting Paris. I would recommend using an Uber, which works quite well in Paris. I have not had great luck with taxi apps in Paris working so that, at least for me, taxis won’t be an option. If you do take the Metro, the closest station to Moulin Rouge is Blanche on Metro line 2.

Exploring the Eiffel Tower-Girls Trip 2023

No trip to Paris would be complete without checking out the Eiffel Tower. It is an icon and a masterpiece of engineering. Whether you just walk by or you go for the whole guided tour, skip the line ticket, dining at the restaurants on the first or second levels or the champagne at the top package, you MUST experience the Eiffel Tower in some shape or form.

The Eiffel Tower was created to be the centerpiece of the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris. With 60+ million visitors a year, the Eiffel Tower is the tallest building in Paris (about 81 stories high). For our 30th anniversary several years ago, Thom and I celebrated the milestone with a trip up to the top. With a combination of tickets to use the elevators and access the top floors, we enjoyed the view and took some amazing pictures to memorialize the moment. We ended up going the less travelled route as usual by walking down the steps all by ourselves for awhile. We wandered around the park underneath, enjoyed seeing the carousel and went back to the Trocadero at night to see the tower light up and twinkle, which it does every night for just for 5 minutes. Get there in advance so you don’t miss it! The night we were there, it was also a full moon which made for an amazing view.

This time on our Girls Trip 2023, we decided to skip the trip up the tower due to some issues with the ladies not liking heights. Instead, we jumped off the Batobus boat, got off at the Eiffel Tower pier and walked around the grounds admiring it from the bottom up. Well, at least as much as we could, given the “sprucing up” that Paris was doing to get ready for the 2024 Olympics coming up. There is a lot of construction going on all around town. Paris will shine in 2024. Enjoy the journey!

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE EIFFEL TOWER TRAVEL TIPS:

  1. Go online to the official Eiffel Tower site and compare options to visit: The OFFICIAL Eiffel Tower website: tickets, news, info… (toureiffel.paris) Best times to visit are early mornings for a day visit and at night for the twinkling lights.
  2. Book tickets well in advance from official site (they go on sale two months in advance) for the experience you want. Once you’ve booked them, you cannot change or exchange your e-tickets. All purchases are final. So double check before hitting that “purchase” button to make sure you have right date/time. Prices/times may vary so I won’t quote any here. Just go to the site and check it out.
  3. You can print tickets or show on your phone just as long as barcode can be scanned. Bring ID for everyone as you may get asked to show it (even for children).
  4. You do have to go through security checks so don’t bring anything that will prevent you from going in like luggage-small bags okay but not big ones.
  5. There are free toilets on every floor (1st, 2nd and top). Use the facilities here because there are practically no toilets on the grounds around the Eiffel Tower. Believe me-I searched and found one defective pod toilet where the door wasn’t closing all the way so my sister stood in front of it so I could use it.
  6. Go during the day AND at night. These are very different experiences. Lights start twinkling after sundown (depends on time of year) on the hour for five minutes (so get there early) and until midnight.
  7. Walk up/down at least some stairs to get a feel for the structure. There are 1665 steps to the top so probably plan on a combo of getting elevator tickets and walking some sections for a well rounded experience. There are only 328 steps to the first floor-you can do it! Thom and I did this and loved it. Lots of good pictures taken too.

GETTING THERE:

ADDRESS:

Champ de Mars, 5 Avenue Anatole France, 75007 Paris, France

On the day of your visit, allow A LOT of extra time to get there. Surface street traffic in Paris is always bad so if you are coming by taxi or Uber, you will get stuck in traffic. I’ve never before gotten a text from Uber that said “we see you haven’t moved in 20 minutes, are you alright?” until I recently went to Paris and then I got it several times. One trip that was predicted by the app to take 20 minutes took two hours. Not kidding! Poor driver did not make money on that trip but we did trip him 20 euros for not kicking us out.

I would recommend using the Metro (Lines 6, 8 or 9) to get close and then walking. Other options: Bus (line 42 or 82/closest bust stop is Bir-Hakeim), take a scenic boat ride (we took the BatoBus Seine River hop on, hop off and they have a stop at the Eiffel Tower), or RER train line 3 (get off at Champs de Mars station). Map below courtesy of official Eiffel Tower site.

Walking Montmartre/Sacre Coeur-Girls Trip 2023

Want a great view of Paris AND lots of cafes and shops? Well then head on over to Montmartre in the northern 18th arrondissement on the Right Bank of the Seine. Whether it’s gelato or wine, you’ll find refreshments galore to keep your energy up while you sit in café Le Consultat on rue Norvins, which has hosted famous artists such as Dali and Toulouse-Lautrec, and people watch. For Girls Trip 2023, we made Montmartre our first stop to get the lay of the land and soak up the Parisian atmosphere. Bon jour!

How to get there? The most unique way is to ride the funicular up the steep hillside. You will need a ticket to go on, purchased there or you can use the Metro aka subway/bus paper tickets too or your Navigo card, which we got to use all week on mass transit around town. It takes one ticket up and one ticket to go down. They pack them in there, but it beats walking up the hundreds of steps unless you want to get the exercise! I’ve only walked up on past trips to Paris, so it was fun to finally try the funicular. It’s nice to have alternatives depending on how you are feeling. Since we usually do 20,000+ steps a day when we visit Paris, there may be times you just want a ride up!

Famous artists such as Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Edgar Degas and Pablo Picasso lived in Montmartre and were inspired by this beautiful area. Who wouldn’t be??? Patti is the artistic one in our girls’ group, and I know if we had more time there, she would have had an easel out in the square like the many artists who were doing landscapes and portraits. Perhaps get an original sketch as a souvenir to take home and hang on your wall as a reminder of your wonderful trip? We’ve bought artwork before when we travel and love seeing it daily as a reminder of our journey. You can pick up a cardboard tube at local art supply stores to carry your treasure home safely.

Once you get up to the top, when you aren’t shopping or dining, you can enjoy Sacre Coeur Basilica pictured above. Completed in 1914, Sacre Coeur is a Roman Catholic church that is free to visit and where religious masses are still held frequently. Inside and outside, it is stunning. You do have to go through security but there is no admission fee. From the fabulous stained glass and sculptures to the various crypts and chapels to explore, there is so much to see and appreciate but the centerpiece is the dome, which, according to Wikipedia, symbolizes the celestial world, resting upon a rectangular space, symbolizing the terrestrial world. The two are joined by massive columns, which represent the passage between the two worlds. If you don’t mind walking up a lot (300+) steps, you can climb the Dome for a spectacular view. Note: no elevator.

Outside on the steps, thousands of people gather at any time but especially to watch the sun set over Paris. It’s a party! Bring snacks, wine and settle in to enjoy the company of thousands as you gaze over the rooftops of Paris. Enjoy the journey!

GETTING AROUND SACRE COEUR AND MONTMARTRE

After the Eiffel Tower, this is one of the most popular tourist destinations so plan your visit accordingly. Come at the end of the day for a stunning sunset view or early in the morning to avoid the crowds.

I didn’t take one but there are lots of walking tours of Montmartre-here is one: Montmartre Walking Tour: Paris’ Best Art, Culture and Food 2023 (viator.co. Maybe next trip!

We saw lots of taxis on the streets in Montmartre. If you see one with a green light, hail it and it just might stop for you if it doesn’t already have a ride booked through their app (G7). We used Uber all over Paris with usually only a 5 minute on average wait time.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

Sacre Coeur is accessible by bus or metro line 2 at Anvers station. Sacré-Cœur Basilica is open from 06:00 to 22:30 every day and the dome is accessible from 10:00 to 19:00.

Montmartre is served by these Métro lines:

Line 2 stations at Barbès-Rochechouart, Anvers, Pigalle and Blanche 

Line 4 stations at Château Rouge and Barbès–Rochechouart

Line 12 stations at Pigalle, Abbesses, Lamarck–Caulaincourt (one of the most photographed metro stations because of its iconic Parisian charm) and Jules Joffrin.

It is also served by the Montmartre Funicular, operated by the RATP, which ascends the hill from the south while the Montmartre bus circles the hill. (Wikipedia)

London A to Z

I love London! We’ve been several times for both business and pleasure and plan to go back in 2024 for a 40-night pet sit. It’s a city filled with history, great food and shopping and everything else you could want in a European city. When a friend told me that they had recently gotten a trip to London for their birthday (lucky La Shanda!), I thought I would put together a comprehensive A to Z list for her and anyone else visiting London soon including us. Enjoy the journey!

GETTING TO/FROM AIRPORT

London’s major airport is Heathrow (LHR) but close by is also Gatwick (LGW). Both airports have public transportation options to get from the airport to the city. Get all the info here: Trains To & From London Heathrow Airport – Maps, Tickets | Rail Europe

I’ve used a car service as well, which is the nice and more expensive option vs. public transportation but necessary if you have lots of luggage or have accessibility issues. We’ve used this service-book online: https://www.blacklane.com/en/car-service-london/

GETTING AROUND WITHIN LONDON CITY TRANSPORTATION

London, like any big city, has terrible traffic almost all the time. If you have booked tickets and need to be somewhere at a specific time, plan ahead and leave LOTS of extra time to get there. Using the travel apps like Rome2Rio or Citymapper, compare your options and add one hour to your travel time.

It’s always best to walk, which will be faster than almost any ground transportation due to the traffic. Next best options are buses (double-decker ones are fun!) and the Underground aka the Tube (subway). For both, you should have Apple Pay or Google Pay on your phone/smart watch to tap at the turnstiles to pay. Otherwise, you are fumbling for a credit card to tap, and you probably don’t want to have that out and about with other people nearby who could snatch it (yes, it happens so be smart). You don’t buy paper tickets anymore-it’s all tap to pay here.

Consider staying in Zone 1 or 2 if you will be using the Tube daily. Remember, “mind the gap” to get on/off the subway and “look left” when crossing the street. Review this before you go: How to use the London Underground: Tips & tricks – Tripadvisor

If you really have to get a car ride, then go with Uber first and, as a last resort, a taxi. Why? Well, with Uber you have a fixed price when you input the pickup and drop off locations. It is in the best interest of the driver to get you there quickly with Uber. With the taxi, you are on a meter and the driver may or may not take a direct route. We tried both and always the Uber would have been cheaper by 20% or so. When using Uber, find a landmark like a hotel or restaurant and get the address to enter into the Uber app and make it easy for the driver to find you. Our average wait time for an Uber in London was 5-10 minutes.

Uber boats go up and down the Thames-in good weather, a fun way to get around London and avoid the terrible street traffic. Just tap on and off. Thames River Cruises & London Boat Trips – Uber Boat by Thames Clippers

TRAVEL APPS

Google maps works well in London.

Citymapper App-best transport app of London. Makes public transportation easy. Shows you prices too.

Use the GETT app to get taxi’s. Especially for short distances, they are convenient. Taxi’s can use the bus lanes and Uber can’t so taxi’s can get you there quicker.

TfL Go app for Tube travel. Shows map of various lines and tells about cancellations. Tap on a Tube station on the map to see facilities like lifts and bathrooms.

WhatsApp to call and do video chats with those back home. Free! Also some restaurants use to make reservations.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotels:

St. Ermin’s is elegant, historic and has the best service I’ve experienced at a hotel. Great location with easy walk to Big Ben and other landmarks. Historic Luxury 4-star Hotel in Central London | St. Ermin’s Hotel (marriott.com)

The Tower Hotel (get a room with a view of the Tower Bridge) https://thetowerhotellondon.com/

Sarova-Rembrandt Hotel: https://www.sarova-rembrandthotel.com/

Serviced luxury apartments https://theharrington.com/stay

GREAT VIEWS:

Book tickets to the Sky Garden. It’s free and we have great memories there. You need to book in advance but it’s worth the effort. https://skygarden.london

The Shard-London’s tallest building The Shard: Inspiring change (the-shard.com)

London Eye The lastminute.com London Eye: The Official Tickets Website

Parliament Hill for best view of city Parliament Hill, London – Wikipedia

SITES/TOURS:

Parliament Tour Tours – UK Parliament

Tower of London Tower of London | Historic Royal Palaces (hrp.org.uk)

Westminster Abbey A royal church | Westminster Abbey (westminster-abbey.org)

Happy Potter Tour Warner Bros. Studio Tour London – The Making of Harry Potter (wbstudiotour.co.uk)

Buckingham Palace https://www.rct.uk/visit

St. Paul’s Cathedral St Paul’s Cathedral | St Paul’s Cathedral (stpauls.co.uk)

Hampton Court Palace https://www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace/#gs.msyc38

Alexandra Palace Amazing Things To Do at Alexandra Palace

London Walks Contact Us – London Walks Harry Potter walk; ghost tour; historical walk

MUSEUMS:

All national museums in the UK are free but check online in case you need to reserve tickets because they restrict the # of people at any given time. Special exhibits may cost. Donations encouraged. Use Smartify App to scan paintings and learn more about the art.

PARKS: (locals hang out in the parks on nice day-rent bikes and ride around to see more!)

  • Hyde Park
  • St. James Park
  • Hampstead Heath/Parliament Hill-view of skyline
  • Holland Park-Kyoto garden
  • Diana Memorial
  • Kew Botanical Garden there is entrance fee https://www.kew.org/

RESTAURANTS/BARS:

Pret-A-Manger is fast food and delicious. For coffee and pastries, takeaway (this is how they ask for “to-go”) cold sandwiches which are fresh and tasty or hot soups and sandwiches. Very affordable $5 euros for wrap that is plenty big. Great veggie options.

PUBS:

MARKETS:

AFTERNOON TEA: (a “must do” while in London!)

SHOPPING:

We aren’t big shoppers but I had always wanted to see the inside of Harrod’s so off we went after a look at the Microsoft Experience Center on Regent Street (my former employer). All I can say is that the retail sector looks strong in London. The streets were packed with shoppers going here and there like back before the pandemic. Harrod’s is fancy and the shoppers there were dropping thousands of dollars on designer bags, jewelry and perfume. Taking the main center escalators, you will see beautiful displays throughout the store. The food market has great takeaway food (no tables to eat there!) including yummy jams, candies and crackers to take back home. In the basement is the Herrod Gift Shop where the affordable items area including a Christmas area, lots of Harrod’s branded items and such. If you have room in your luggage, go for it and buy, buy, buy!

Typical London Shopping Hours but check with each store before you go:

Mon – Wed: 9:30am – 7pm, Thu: 9:30am – 8pm, Fri: 9:30am – 7pm, Sat: 10am – 7pm, Sun: 12pm – 6pm

ACTIVITIES/DAY TRIP:

SPORTS EVENTS:

THEATER:

When we lived in NYC, we tried to go to a Broadway show almost every week. London has a lively theater scene so we booked tickets to see Book of Mormon at the Prince of Wales theater. This theater was compact with maybe 25 rows on the main floor and then several balconies over it. So small but tall and probably no bad seats in the house. Upon entering, you can grab a drink and relax in the lobby where they had tables/seats which you would not find at a Broadway theater. I love to collect bar cups branded for each Broadway show we attend but here just regular plastic cups for my wine but way cheaper than Broadway ($6 vs. $20 I’m used to in NYC).

You can take drinks into the theater to enjoy while you watch the show. Book of Mormon was hilarious with talented singers/dancers/actors. In NYC we are used to going to the TKTS booth in Times Square the day of the show and getting good deals but here I’ve been using the TodayTix app for good pricing you can get in advance of the day you go-usually 20-40% off depending on the seats you want.

Get your tickets online at and never pay full price:

Bernina Express-Swiss Alps by Train

When we decided to splurge and go to the Bruce Springsteen concert in Zurich, I knew I wanted to schedule time to check out the rest of Switzerland while we were there, one of the countries I had always wanted to go to. Growing up in flat Indiana, mountains have always fascinated me. After spending a fantastic evening with Bruce in Zurich in June, we set out on the train for a quick one-hour ride to Chur, Switzerland to spend the night and then pick up the Bernina Express the next day. We were off to cross the Alps!

Setting off in the early afternoon from Chur, we were fortunate to have a clear day for our journey. The highest railway across the Alps, the train climbs higher and higher with spectacular views on both sides. There are large panoramic windows for unobstructed viewing and picture taking. In our car, people were jumping up and running from side to side to take pictures and everyone was very friendly. We met lovely folks from Australia and Canada. I always enjoy hearing about other people’s travels all over the world! Every time I thought I couldn’t possibly take another picture, there was something else so impressive I had to whip out my phone. Along the way, the train goes through 55 tunnels, over 196 bridges and takes inclines of up to 70 per mile with ease. I’ll let my pictures take you on this journey so you can also experience the beauty of the Alps.

Not surprisingly, this amazing railway line has UNESCO World Heritage status so it will be preserved and cherished. As we passed by the many glaciers, one does wonder what impact climate change will have on this area of the world. It is a continuous journey, but passengers were able to hop off the train for all of two minutes to take pictures at one stunning stop where there was a restaurant. Our first-class tickets were $250 USD each and well worth it. Of course, when I booked our tickets online, I thought I was getting a real deal because they were only $26 euros each. Turns out, in the fine print was a vaguely worded statement that this charge was for “reserving” the seats and that I should have then gone on to pay (somewhere?) an additional $110 euros for the actual train tickets. Luckily, they didn’t throw us off the train on a mountainside and we were able to straighten this out on the train with the attendant who swung through to scan everyone’s tickets and she just took our credit card there and charged us. Next time, I will make sure to dig deeper and read all the details. No other train travel had a separate charge to reserve seats so live and learn!

We had waiter service to order snacks and beverages. They also passed out lovely souvenir Bernina Express chocolate tins. My grandkids will love them! I would recommend going online and securing your tickets as soon as you know your travel dates. Our train was sold out. In talking to fellow travelers, they had all dreamed of this trip and had planned their vacations around taking it.

Eventually, the train came down from the Alps and ended in Tirano, Italy. There we picked up another train immediately to take us to Milan where we would be flying home the following day. This train segment was very scenic as it wound around the many lakes in Northern Italy. What an adventure! I really feel like I saw the best of Switzerland after our stays in Basel, Zurich, Chur and our final scenic Alps trip on the Bernina Express. Enjoy the journey!

Review of Homes & Villas by Marriott

As a loyal and longtime Marriott Bonvoy traveler, I have always used Marriott hotels for my shorter (week or less) stays around the world. For longer trips, I stay at Airbnb’s for more space and a kitchen, washer/dryer, etc. When I found out that Marriott had started renting apartments/homes, I was so excited to switch from Airbnb to Marriott. What could go wrong? The ability to earn Marriott Bonvoy points on long stays-sign me up! How could it not be a better experience than Airbnb when Marriott was willing to put their global brand on the program? I do expect high standards with the Marriott brand and have rarely been let down on my global hotel stays. Unfortunately, my first experience with Homes & Villas by Marriott in Paris was disappointing at best. Marriott-do better. Please.

When we arrived after a very long day/night of travel and the house cleaner was still working away at cleaning the Paris apartment, we rented for our Girls Trip 2023 (finishing the clean after the official check-in time) and I quickly spied a huge spider that I had to kill with my shoe, I cringed. Yikes-this might not be the upscale experience I expected.

Launched in 2019 to appeal to their Bonvoy customers who want a travel brand that they trust but the space and amenities of an apartment/home, Marriott needs to improve in order to keep customers like me coming back. With that in mind, here is my feedback on my stay for Marriott:

  • Show customer ratings and reviews like Airbnb. Customers tell it like it is, both good and bad. I would not have rented this expensive apartment had there been customer reviews which described the neighborhood. Our block included a boisterous group that met every night on the corner under our windows (which had to be open-no a/c). It was crazy loud until the wee hours every single night.
  • Ensure that every apartment comes with a manual (similar to Airbnb) so that you don’t have to watch a YouTube video to learn how to use the combo washer/dryer, which we had to do. I had to take a picture and send to the property management company to translate the front panel.
  • Conduct Marriott property visits to ensure that appropriate ongoing maintenance is being done by local property management companies. Our apartment had duct tape holding cabinets together due to broken door hinges, peeling paint on the bedroom wall and kitchen appliances (oven and dishwasher) that didn’t work. These issues do not create a “premium and luxury” experience for the traveler.
  • Under promise, over deliver. If you are going to promise High-Speed Wi-Fi, television and kitchen essentials, then you better make sure these are indeed included. Our apartment had slow Wi-Fi that negatively impacted our ability to work remotely and enjoy entertainment since the television only had local channels all in French, the bedroom televisions hadn’t even been set up, and the Wi-Fi wasn’t strong enough to use our technology to stream shows via Google Chromecast.

Below is Marriott’s program statement detailing the travel experience they offer with Homes & Villas. I was looking forward to enjoying this premium experience in Paris. I did not get it:

Marriott’s published program statement: Homes & Villas by Marriott Bonvoy offers a curated and growing collection of premium and luxury whole home rentals located in prime destinations throughout the world. Leveraging Marriott International’s deep knowledge in delivering exceptional hospitality experiences, each home is professionally managed and meets the company’s design, cleanliness, safety and amenity standards. Homes & Villas by Marriott Bonvoy is part of the Marriott Bonvoy travel program, providing numerous benefits to both property management companies and travelers. Members of Marriott Bonvoy can earn and redeem points at all homes, providing more choice for a range of travel needs as a complement to Marriott International’s core hotel business.

Three Days in Zurich

Swans everywhere! That was my first impression as we walked the Zurich waterfront in June. With sunny weather, everyone was enjoying the cafes and strolling the clean Zurich streets. We were primarily in Zurich to see a Bruce Springsteen concert but wanted to soak up as much Zurich as possible in our three-night stay. We walked the waterfront, explored the old town curvy cobblestone streets and thoroughly enjoyed beautiful Zurich!

First on our list after taking the train from Basel to Zurich, was to check into our hotel and find Lake Zurich by walking along the Linth River. The Swiss public transportation system is topnotch. It didn’t take us long to find the tram stop by our hotel which was fairly far out of the central district but very close to the stadium where the concert would be held. Just tap to pay at any tram stop for a 24-hour pass (9 francs) and off you go! It was about 20-minute ride to the waterfront. We checked out the gorgeous views of the water and the alps peeking through the haze. Then it was off to walk Old Town. The cobblestone streets winded up and down with beautiful architecture everywhere you look. It was a Sunday, so all the shops and most of the cafes were closed and thus we window shopped.

Back at the hotel, there was an outdoor food truck park with bars, entertainment and every kind of food you could think of to choose from. Set in the middle of an industrial park area, it was surprising to see how many people had gathered to enjoy this colorful installation. I love finding hidden gems like this as we wander a new place.

While we spent most of our first full day hunting for luggage to buy after my carry-on busted a wheel (heavy use!), we also checked out the stadium, which we could walk to and enjoyed seeing the local neighborhoods. I will warn travelers to Zurich to bring along a large expense budget because the prices are very high. I would estimate that prices are at least 30% higher here than in most major cities in the US for food and clothes, luggage, etc. We finally found some affordable luggage at a Coop City which is a like a super Walmart that carries food and other items.

During our stroll around Zurich, we ended up on THE shopping street Bahnhofstrasse where all the designer shops are located as well as the mass merchants like Zara. Even if you budget doesn’t allow for shopping, the window displays are well done and it’s quite the place to be. Off the beaten track later, I stumbled upon the cutest linen shop where the lady showed me all her handmade items, and I bought a beautiful pillow cover for my collection. She was so proud of her work, and I felt wonderful buying one of her items to take home.

On the day of the concert, we took a long walk along the lakefront and stumbled upon not only beautiful lake views but a Chinese garden. Free to enter, the structures, ponds and landscape reminded us of our time living in China and was a beautiful way to enjoy the sunny day.

I give props to Switzerland for having not only fantastic public transportation (plentiful, cheap, clean) but also their well-maintained public parks and facilities. The landscaping is immaculate for everyone to enjoy being outside. The WC (water closets aka bathrooms) are spotless and placed around town. Keep $1 euro coins handy to enter and use the facilities.

Zurich is a major hub for train travel across Europe so if you find yourself going through this city in your travels, I would encourage you to take time to walk the water and enjoy the journey!