New York City-Top 10 Free Things to Do

New York City is my favorite place in the world. I had the great fortune to live there for six months on a work assignment for Microsoft and have also travelled there extensively over many years for both business and pleasure. I even married a born and bred New Yorker! And while I’ve travelled all around the world, I still have yet to find a city that rivals NYC. Just walking around the various neighborhoods, eating $1 pizza and bagels from the street carts, strolling through Central Park and visiting many famous museums keeps me busy. Most of what I love to do in NYC is FREE! So, I’m going to share with you my favorite free things to do in NYC. Enjoy the journey!

Central Park (Your Official Guide to Central Park I… | Central Park Conservancy (centralparknyc.org) is where real New Yorkers go to exercise and relax. Check out Belvedere castle, the turtle pond, and the great lawn. Wander around and take care not to get run over by the many bikes, roller bladers, horse carriages, etc. on the roads and pathways. It’s beautiful.

NYC Public Library tour (https://www.nypl.org/events/tours/schwarzman) I love libraries in general, but the NYC main library is by far the best I’ve seen. I didn’t appreciate how special it was until I took the free tour that took us behind the scenes and throughout all the areas you wouldn’t normally see. My husband found out that the tour guide won’t tolerate talking in the library as he got “shushed” more than once. Especially now as libraries and censoring our books is a real issue, go to the NYC Public Library and celebrate this amazing institution of learning and culture.

Little Island Park Home – Little Island is fairly new and located in Hudson River Park. It’s a great place to take a walk, enjoy the view of the Hudson and perhaps catch a concert if you’re lucky. Great pit stop when exploring the High Line and Chelsea neighborhoods-clean and plentiful public bathrooms!

High Line Walk Home | The High Line Enjoy a stroll on this former NYC railroad line. Great for people watching AND exercise. Open daily from 7 am to 10 pm. Maybe you might even stumble upon some cool street music like the picture above in one of the local parks in the neighborhood. We even saw a grand piano one time being played in a park. Awesome random experiences like that happen all the time in NYC and is one of the many reasons I love this city so much.

Grand Central terminal Grand Central Terminal – Be Transported Open since 1913, this terminal is not only a transportation hub but an iconic NYC landmark. One of Grand Central’s main attractions is the four-faced opal clock that sits in the center of the Main Concourse above the Information Booth. Grab a cocktail at The Campbell Bar, restored to its original grandeur on the balcony level or try the Oyster Bar, the oldest restaurant in the terminal. Cheers!

Times SquareTimes Square NYC When in NYC, you have to at least walk through Times Square to gawk at the bright lights in the big city. Word of caution-don’t touch the many characters walking around-who knows the last time that costume was washed! If you take pictures with them, they expect to be paid. You’ve been warned. Look but don’t touch!

Visit the TKTS booth here if you want to see a Broadway play that night and spend 30-50% less than the ticket price. Our jam was going to Broadway when we lived there and once a week we would line up and see whatever was available that night.

Museums-below are the “free” details but always check on the museum website just before you go to make sure there haven’t been any changes! More details here: Free Museum Days or Pay What You Wish | NYC-ARTS Here are some of my NYC favorites:

Metropolitan Museum of Art aka The Met The Metropolitan Museum of Art (metmuseum.org) It is always “pay as you wish” so make a donation or walk in for free-up to you! When we lived in NYC, we got a membership and went at least once a week. My favorite rooms are the Temple of Dendur and the rooms that are exclusively Monets everywhere you look-heaven! Check out the Cloisters (part of the Met) north of the city. Worth the subway ride to get to.

Morgan Library The Morgan Library & Museum, New York, founded by Pierpont Morgan free every Friday from 5-7 pm! Libraries are my happy place and this mansion filled with books is a shrine to the written word from the Gutenberg Bible to Mozart’s scores to fabulous art.

Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) MoMA For NYC residents, the first Friday of every month from 4-8 pm is free but you still need to book tickets online-it gets busy! Children 16 and under are always free. MoMA offers one free admission to active members of the US military with valid ID as well as free admission for military families with dependent cards. Tickets are available at the Ticketing Desk.

Governors Island Park is a 172-acre park in New York Harbor. A des­ti­na­tion for trans­for­ma­tive pub­lic art, unfor­get­table events, cul­tur­al and edu­ca­tion­al pro­gram­ming and recre­ation­al activ­i­ties for all ages-check the website Governors Island (en-US) (govisland.com) for more details on event programming. Wear comfortable shoes and go on a nice day to enjoy the island and the beautiful view of Manhattan.  We had the place to ourselves when we went as it is not a well-advertised tourist site. Hidden gem!

Open 7 am to 6 pm daily. Free ferry ride to get there on Saturday/Sunday before noon. Nominal fee at other times-buy tickets online: PURCHASE TICKETS (govisland.com)

Free, guided walking tours (not in the winter), departing from the Soissons Landing Welcome Center every Saturday and Sunday at 10:45am, 12:45pm, 2:45pm.

Concerts in the park in the summer – it’s a party! If you are travelling in the summer to NYC, enjoy the free musical and theater concerts in the parks. Check the event calendar here: Free Summer Concerts : NYC Parks (nycgovparks.org) We’ve enjoyed so many shows-some were planned to attend and others we just stumbled upon when we were walking around the city. Plan ahead and pack a travel blanket so you have a place to sit.

Neighborhood Walking Tours-Flatiron district When I lived in NYC, this was my neighborhood. From Madison Square Park where we would take our dog to the dog park to run wild with his pooch friends to gazing at the Flatiron Building to shopping at Fish Eddys, it was spectacular. Take a walking tour and find out the history of this magical place. Especially for architecture buffs, this 90-minute tour also include these landmarks: the New York Life Building, the MetLife Clock Tower, and the Appellate Courthouse. Tour is free but tip the guide! Every Sunday at 11 am, rain or shine. No RSVP or registration required.

Top 10 travel tips for flying

As I head out tomorrow on my 5:30 am (boarding at 4:50 am) flight, I am thinking to myself, “WTF WAS I THINKING!!!” It always seems like a good idea at the time you book, but these AM flights are killer even if they do get you from the West Coast to the East Coast before dark. I would just caution you to really think through your flight times as well as your layover times before you book. If you are going to arrive tired and cranky or have to run through a crowded airport to make a tight connection, maybe rethink your flight plans.

If you haven’t already, download the airline app on your phone for whatever carrier you are flying on. Use the boarding pass on your app to get through security and onto the plane. Set up push notifications to your phone within the app for any change to your travel plans. Gates change, flights are delayed or cancelled, and you need to be the first to know. Heads up-more and more airports are not making overhead announcements so the notification on your phone from your airline might be your only warning. If you have a flight cancel or are delayed too long that you will miss connections, jump on the airline’s app immediately while walking to the customer service desk to rebook. If you are travelling with a companion, have them call the airlines customer service at the same time. You never know where you’ll get the fastest service, so you have to try several options simultaneously because everyone else on that delayed flight is also trying to reschedule. Below are my top 10 travel tips for flying, accumulated from personally travelling all over the world. Enjoy the journey!

  1. Try to get on the first flight out in the morning even if it means getting up early (but maybe not as early as I’m getting up tomorrow!). These flights are far less likely to cancel. Later flights are subject to weather issues and cascading flight cancels as delays cause flight crews to take breaks every 16 hours they work. Getting TSA Pre-check for US travel is worth the time and $78 expense. I would never consider travelling without it as I typically get through TSA much faster and without taking liquids out or shoes off. For frequent global trips, get Global Entry for $100 that includes TSA Pre-check. More info on these programs here: Official Trusted Traveler Program Website | Department of Homeland Security (dhs.gov)
  2. If you have a major event to attend like a wedding, funeral or perhaps a concert, try to arrive at least a day or two in advance to allow for flight delays/cancels. Delays happen! If they do, try to buy a day pass to one of the airline member lounges if you don’t already have a membership. They offer comfortable seating (and even beds at some airports-see pic above of Thom reclining at Delta club in Paris!) and free food/alcohol. I spend extra to have this luxury (look at those big seats in pic above!) because it makes delays and long connections bearable when travelling. Tomorrow, I have a 3-hour layover in Minneapolis, and I’ll be checking out the new Delta club that I hear is fabulous.
  3. When booking, allow for several hours between connections. You may think that the airlines sites are showing connections that are 30 minutes when you do searches so it must be alright but that is not the case. Especially at large, busy airports and those in other countries that may require you to go through customs, you need three hours minimum between flights. Really anywhere for both foreign and domestic flights, allow 90 minutes at least between connecting flights.
  4. Always check out carefully where you are sitting on the plane. Don’t be near the bathrooms or in seats that don’t recline. Speaking of awful seats-see pic above of weird wall that was in front of my husband’s seat instead of a video screen on the seat back in front of him. This wall wasn’t showing when on the map when seats were booked. On overnight flights, try to be halfway between bathrooms and galley so that it is quieter. If you need to get up frequently, get an aisle seat. Want to lean while you sleep, then get a window seat and hug the wall.
  5. Being drunk on a plane is a federal offense so don’t overdo it. Jet lag is bad enough but jet lag+hangover will negatively impact your trip. If another passenger gets drunk and rowdy, discretely go to the flight attendant and let them handle it-they are trained and will be better equipped than you are to take care of any situation.
  6. If flights are full and people have to get bumped (yes, it happens and it’s not fair if you have a ticket, but it happens), the first people to get bumped are those who paid for the tickets not directly from the airline site. So, for example, you book your ticket through a third-party site like Expedia vs. a person who bought through the Delta site, then you, as the Expedia customer, will probably be bumped. Even better, if you are a loyal frequent flyer on one airline and get status, you have the edge over others with no status. Be loyal! Sign up for the frequent flyer program at the airline you will use most often. For me, it’s Alaska for regional travel and Delta for everything else. As far as the low-cost carriers like Southwest, you get what you pay for. Southwest has had multiple systemwide issue failures causing travel havoc. Save up and fly on a better airline.
  7. Don’t bring stinky food to eat on the plane. Not only will those around you hate you but the flight attendants will too. Don’t be that person eating the taco or tuna fish or a hardboiled egg. Yuck! P.S. Also bring along Lysol wipes and thoroughly clean off your tray table and armrests-you know the plane crew doesn’t probably have time to do a good job on every single tray table for every flight. I have a vivid memory of seeing a mother bounce her baby (clad only in a diaper) on the tray table to get them to calm down. Think about that-the residue left behind from that bouncing diaper-clad bottom….and clean, clean, clean before touching your tray table.
  8. Drink water to stay hydrated. Don’t get ice in your water or drink. Various studies show ice can be contaminated with bacteria. I don’t chance it. Your choice.
  9. Bring noise cancelling headphones OR listen to the guy next to you snoring or telling you conspiracy theories or the baby crying for hours. Also, some airplane still use the headphones with jacks to watch free movies. Carry a spare pair just in case.
  10. Dress in layers to fly. I always wear pants (shorts on a plane are just stupid-sorry), a l/s top, jacket and scarf. BTW, keep your shoes on while you fly. Please for the love of God. Wear compression socks to increase circulation and reduce swelling in your legs and feet. P.S. That’s not water on the bathroom floor on the plane in case you take your shoes off and decide to use the facilities.

I’m off to go to bed at 8 pm so that I can rise at 3 am and get to the airport for my unholy early morning flight tomorrow. The good news is that I probably won’t have a travel delay and I’ll get to Indianapolis for my family visit before it gets dark. I’m homeward bound to walk down memory lane.

Singapore

Singapore is a world away from where I live in Boise, Idaho. Was is it worth the 20+ hours to fly there? You betcha! I’ve travelled all over the world and there is no place like Singapore. From the towering garden sculptures to the night zoo tour, it was an epic journey.

After spending a few days working in Singapore at my company’s offices, I was joined by my friend Patti who flew in all the way from Indiana to enjoy this exotic locale with me. Together, on my days off, we explored all over Singapore taking a hop on, hop off bus first to get the lay of the land and absorb some history from the audio tour which is typically available on these types of buses.

I love a big bustling city and Singapore is all that and more with the third highest population density in the world. Even with all those folks, it is the safest and cleanest city I’ve ever seen with a strict culture of picking up after yourself. As a major business hub in Asia, numerous languages are spoken and English is one of the four official languages that also include Malay, Mandarin and Tamil. So signs, menus, etc. are found in English making it an easy visit for a traveler from the US.

What to see and do

Marina Bay is a neighborhood that you could spend a whole day walking around but the “must do” is going up 56 levels to see the panoramic view from the Sands Skypark Observation Deck at the Marina Bay Sands hotel. Plan a trip around sunset and then walk over to the Gardens by the Bay for a cooler nighttime walk through the gardens or watch the light show set to music from across the bay at one of the restaurants on the water. Sands Skypark Observation Deck

Gardens by the Bay is filled with flora and fauna but it’s famous for the towering sculptures that light up at night. Spanning 250 acres in the Central Region of Singapore, it has three waterfront gardens filled with over 1.5 million plants from around the world. It is free to just walk around the gardens but costs to enter the Flower Dome, Cloud Forest (indoor waterfall) or skywalk. Patti and I went at night after going to Sands Skypark and enjoyed the nightly lights show set to music. Gardens by the Bay

Raffles is the historic hotel/bar established in 1819 as Singapore was just becoming a major trading post of the British Empire. At Long Bar, it is an energetic production by the bartenders to create their iconic drink, the Singapore Sling. First created in 1915 and widely known as the official cocktail of Singapore, this gin-based cocktail contains pineapple juice, lime juice, curaçao and Bénédictine. Grenadine and cherry liqueur give it a pink hue. Patti and I both loved it and it went down way too fast especially given the price which was not low. But, when in Singapore, drink at least one Sling. Cheers! Long Bar – Raffles Singapore – Home of the Singapore Sling

Singapore Zoo, set in a rainforest environment, is home to over 2,800 animals from over 300 species of mammals, birds and reptiles. Patti picked the guided open sided tram ride through the zoo at night as a “must do” adventure. Oh my-lions and tigers and bears roaming around in the dark. Truly a unique experience you would not get in the US. I kept watch for any aggressive animals that might hop onto the tram and eat us, but we survived and had a blast! Night Safari | Mandai Wildlife Reserve

Botanic Gardens admission is free (fee for Orchid Gardens) so go early when it is cooler and enjoy a beautiful walk in nature. Take the SMRT to the Botanical Gardens and be prepared to walk a lot! Singapore Botanic Gardens | Homepage (nparks.gov.sg)

Chinatown  Get a walking tour to learn all about the history of this area and then enjoy the food and shopping. Patti and I love foot massages so we decided to find the best authentic massages in Singapore and compare them to the ones we enjoyed in China. It was amazing and we laughed at the zest and vigor the masseuses had for inflicting torture upon our feet. We left refreshed and ready to walk the streets of Singapore. Chinatown Singapore: Rediscover Food, Heritage and Traditional Crafts.

Food aka hawker stalls in Singapore are famous for their variety of cuisines under one roof. For someone like me who has a weak stomach and can’t eat a lot of foods, it’s not an essential visit but for most people, this is the highlight of their trip to Singapore.  Hawker Centres in Singapore – Visit Singapore Official Site

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Westin Hotel in Marina Bay Area of Singapore | The Westin Singapore (marriott.com). The water views from our room and the rooftop infinity pool were amazing. This is a luxury property from the hotel lobby bar to the business center to the lavish breakfast buffet. It is very centrally located and you can walk many places. The doorman will get you a taxi if you want to venture farther away. I highly recommend!

Getting around

The taxis are government backed and very inexpensive. In addition to taxis, there is SMRT Singapore Mass Rapid Transit to get around town. About Transitlink

Irish Goat Farm-Stay on the Wild Atlantic Way

Hanging out with goats in a magical forest in Ballyvaughan, Ireland sounds like a great adventure, right? Typically, our preferred locations for vacations are big cities where we walk everywhere exploring the neighborhoods and enjoying cafes and shops. However, one of our most memorable trips we have taken was a complete and unexpected departure from the norm. Goats! And lots of them from the head dude to the herd that followed him around, all located on a bayside retreat near Galway. Enjoy the journey!

Not only did we enjoy staying in a beautiful house sitting on a historical fishing harbor on the Atlantic Ocean while watching the tides flow in and out, but it was just a short stroll through the ferns and trees to meet up with the goat herd and observe their clan as they live their best lives in this beautiful setting. The ARBNB (Harbourhillhouse Goatfarm – Farm stays for Rent in Ballyvaughan, County Clare, Ireland – Airbnb) was outstanding in all ways and I highly recommend as a unique retreat.

The host lives separately on the property, taking care of their goats and their guests. We met her for feeding time and heard all about the hierarchy of the goats. They eat and sleep in a community where they have to earn their place in the superior accommodations of the sheds. From the goat village, the goats make daily pilgrimages to the water. It is a sight to see.

When not hanging out with the goats or gazing at the water, we ventured into Ballyvaughan to get groceries and explore the shops and bars. Check out O’Loclainn’s Pub for an authentic Irish experience-just don’t try to order a Cosmo. Head out to Newtown Castle on the water to absorb some history and shop-yes, they have artisans working on their wares right there and selling them to tourists. I got some beautiful handmade jewelry there.

When on the west side of Ireland, the must sees include the town of Galway and a boat tour of the Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands. Watch the weather and don’t book a boat tour in advance-trust me. Our first trip to Ireland, the weather turned bad, and we couldn’t go the day we had paid for in advance and we weren’t there long enough to reschedule. Next trip, we just went to the dock on a nice day, got a ticket and walked on the boat. This will work during the “shoulder” seasons when it’s less busy. If you are going in the summer months, you may have to take that risk. We passed through the town of Lisdoonvarna on our way from the goat farm to the cliffs and saw the famous Matchmaker Bar. They have a festival every year to match folks up! I imagine it’s quite the happening place.

If you like hiking, I would recommend taking the combo Aran Islands and Cliffs of Moher boat trip. We were dropped off on the island and then walked several miles exploring all over the small island. From the cemetery with the ancient crosses to the boat wrecks on the beaches, it was a glorious day. Happy to be back on the boat, it took us by the Cliffs of Moher while we rested. You can walk the path along the cliffs if you are not scared of heights. 

Another day, drive a few miles up north to Galway. A picturesque city on the water, walk the streets, enjoy a meal and a pint and shop! Here are some of my favorite places:

I’m not a fan of driving but, if your goal is to explore off the beaten path in Ireland, it’s probably a necessary evil. I’ve done this twice now and have some advice to share:

  • Research in advance all the fees you will be charged. I thought we were going to pay a much lower amount than what we found out when picking up the car because the extra insurance they require was double the cost of the daily rental rate. If you pay for the rental with an American Express, that may cover the requirement of insurance. International car rentals won’t recognize US insurance coverage. Be forewarned!
  • At the many roundabouts (circular traffic paths that are a replacement for traffic lights) just keep saying to yourself “Stay Left!” and you may survive.
  • Highways in Ireland are lovely and wide. All other secondary roads can be very narrow so don’t rent a huge car. We had a compact and still had shrubs and trees hitting the car on both sides on lanes that were supposedly for two-way traffic but really were like cow paths where oncoming traffic had to edge over as possible between breaks in the stone walls lining most roads to allow cars to pass each other.
  • Pack a flask with you to fill with authentic Irish whiskey for those adventures driving on the narrow cow paths! I am not joking. The cows are huge over there and they use the same roads as the cars to get from field to field. Interesting and terrifying. Cheers!

Prague

Prague is one of my favorite European cities. Friendly, beautiful, reasonable prices and a great walking city. What’s not to like?

Prague is the capital and largest city in the Czech Republic. Built on the Vltava River, it has a rich political and cultural history with Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture on display for your walking all over the city enjoyment. My favorite building is the “dancing house” aka “Ginger and Fred”, which must be seen to be appreciated for its quirkiness. Since 1992, the historic center of Prague has been a World Heritage UNESCO site and rightly so as there is art everywhere you look. For my money, Prague is a “must see” city to be included in any European adventure.

There are many “sights” to see like Prague Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral, Charles Bridge, Old Town Square, the Jewish Quarter, and the really famous (thanks to SO many Instagram posts) Prague astronomical clock. While all those places plus ten major museums and numerous theaters, galleries and historical exhibits are worthy of your time, my favorite memory of Prague is pedaling around the Vltava River in one of the unique boats you can rent. See Prague from the water!

We were able to spend two weeks in Prague during the late spring. I was on a work trip but added on a few vacation days too. As usual, my husband travelled with me on my business trips, taking beautiful photographs and exploring where we would go when I got off work. For the first part of our trip, we stayed out in the Prague suburbs at the Prague Courtyard Marriott and lived like a local. The public transportation is fantastic with cable cars running up and down into the city, so it was really convenient to get around. We strolled the neighborhood farmer’s market, had a picnic on the hill overlooking the city to view the sunset and saw some interesting sculpture-babies crawling up a building. Say what??? You just have to see it to believe it.

Later, we moved into a gorgeous historic hotel in the heart of city center Prague and stayed at the NH Collection Prague Carlo IV Property (was a Marriott when I was there). The lobby was grand, and we enjoyed the one-of-a-kind stunning pool with a curved vaulted ceiling. I was surprised that Prague was considered such a young “party town” but we saw so many hen and stag parties all over. The hen parties are hilarious with the bride and bridesmaids dressed up and running around in a group. The stag boys seemed to enjoy the beer pedal carts and weed stores on every corner. Party down! Our jam is more a low-key experience, so we typically seek out coffee shops, small concerts wherever we go (churches are great venues!) and we even got to see a classic ballet, Swan Lake.

We wandered by an office building and had a chance encounter with the Franz Kafka statue. The 42 moving panels form the face of a famous Czech writer Franz Kafka and is just one of many works of art found on the streets of Prague. Like many European cities on a river, crossing the Charles Bridge is a “must do” but be prepared for crowds and pickpockets. We went early in the day just to avoid the crush.

Another famous sight to check out close to the Charles Bridge is the John Lennon wall. According to their website: Once a normal wall, it gained its significance during the communist regime and became a symbol of freedom, western culture and rebellion against the regime. The wall became a safe place for people to express their opinions and grievances. Among those, inspiring lyrics and positive messages would appear including John Lennon’s quote and The Beatles lines.

One day while I was working, my husband strolled around Vojan gardens and found some peacocks hanging out. What a find! The pictures he took (above) of these beautiful creatures are astounding. While we didn’t have time to take an antique car ride around town, it seemed very popular and looked like fun. Check it out and let me know! We did find time to visit the Prague library because I love all things books, libraries and reading! Artist Matej Kren’s “Idiom” is a long-term art installation where hundreds of books are stacked in a cylindrical tower with mirrors placed at the bottom and the top to give the exhibit the illusion of being infinite. An opening on one side of the tower allows visitors to peek in so I got a photo!

Another hidden gem we just wandered into was the Convent of Poor Clares and Franciscans in Old Town, which was founded in early 1200s. Now it’s a museum filled with amazing medieval art to enjoy and then walk the outside gardens filled with sculptures on the convent grounds. Old Town is filled with cafes and shops. I would dedicate a whole day just to this area to explore. In Prague, the beers are large and the food delicious.

Of course, we had to do a little shopping. Thom predictably found the Happy Feet vinyl store in a quirky retail arcade featuring an upside-down horse hanging from the ceiling. Art everywhere! I prefer handmade jewelry and got a steel choker at an outdoor weekend market for about 10 euros that I still wear frequently. Stay away from the touristy stores and seek out more unique items to take home to remember your trips. Enjoy the journey!

Europe Train Travel-UK, Eurostar, Italy

Travelling by train all over the UK was on my husband’s bucket list so off we went in September 2022 after several years of Covid lockdown, his open-heart surgery and resulting lengthy recovery. It was great to get on the road again or should I say “rails”! We flew into London and then we were off to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Bath and then the Eurostar from London to Paris and finally several trips in Italy-all by train. Hopefully, I can help prepare you for your train travels. Remember, enjoy the journey!

UK TRAIN TRAVEL

We love travelling slow and looking out at bucolic grassy slopes of cow and sheep grazing on the green grass without the worry of driving in a foreign country. With good wifi, you can also get some work done (me) and catch on social media (my husband) along with the perks of a convenient café car and bathrooms. We sometimes bring along our own food and beverages and grab a table seat on the trains. In the UK, Pret and M & S Food are our go-to spots for readymade sandwiches, pastries, fruit and salads that make up an excellent train picnic! You’ll find these chain shops either in the train stations or nearby.

After a few days to enjoy London, we boarded our train to Edinburgh, a city I had been longing to see for awhile. I recommend you sit on the righthand side of the train for this trip to enjoy some coastal views along the way. Edinburgh was magical-see my blog on our visit there: Edinburgh – Travels with Melinda

As with any kind of travel, it’s best to be prepared for anything to happen. On our one hour scheduled trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow, we experienced having to exit two trains due to flooding on the tracks ahead on a very rainy (even for the UK) day. Finally, with no alternative, we quickly downloaded a local taxi app, booked a car and had them drive us the final 20 miles to Glasgow for $25GP rather than be stranded at the local train outpost standing outside during a thunderstorm. We were fortunate to be able to afford to do that but many of the fellow passengers were going to be forced to wait for another train or for the train company to get them a bus to transport them to their final destination, turning a one-hour ride into an all-day nightmare. So, while there are great pluses to train travel, stuff can happen. Be prepared. Technology is your friend. Use it.

Glasgow to Liverpool was a four-hour train trip. We saw mile after mile of sheep laying in the fields! Wind turbines are everywhere. With an energy crisis due to the Russian dependency, the UK will have to put up even more turbines to support their needs. At one stop, our driver must have exceeded his work shift, so we had to wait for his replacement to show up-about a 20-minute delay. Unlike airplanes, trains cannot make up time if they get delayed. You will just show up past the arrival time scheduled. Build in some time on your agenda for possible delays if you are making any connections.

Booking tickets can be confusing but take it one step at a time. Research going from Point A to Point B on a travel app like RometoRio, which is my favorite transportation app. There are many different train companies within a country. For our UK train travels, we used Linr (London Northeast Rail), ScotRail and GWR. When you book using their online platforms, the tickets will be accessible in your app and it’s a barcode or QR code. You scan this code on the machine to get into the platform. When you get to the train station (most don’t have a lot of seating so don’t go too early-30 minutes prior to departure is about right), go to the board listing all the train rides and, about 20 minutes prior to departure, your trip details will post with the platform #. As soon as the platform # is assigned, you can go to the entry, scan your ticket and board the train. Most of our rides had assigned seats. In the car, you’ll see red or green lights to indicate whether a seat has been booked in advance. If you want to change your seat, you can go to any seat that is green. Luggage is stored overhead (carry-on) or there are luggage racks in each car. We only travel with carry-on (even for a month-long trip!) so we keep ours in the overhead where we sit. I have heard of luggage being stolen so keep an eye on your possessions! Helpful UK links:

Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com)

LNER | London North Eastern Railway

Train Tickets | Times & Timetables | Fares in Scotland | ScotRail

Buy Cheap Train Tickets | Great Western Railway | First Great Western (gwr.com)

EUROSTAR TRAIN FROM LONDON TO PARIS

I always thought that taking the Eurostar would be totally cool and I was right! It’s fast and much more fun than flying from London to Paris. Hints on taking Eurostar from London to Paris:

You will leave from St. Pancras international terminal in London and travel 150 miles per hour (224km) for 2 hours and 17 minutes arriving at Paris Gare du Nord station. There is free WiFi on the train and outlets by seats (UK or EU adapters) to recharge your devices. There is a club car with food and beverages to purchase. Everyone has assigned seats-book here: Book Europe Train Tickets and Holidays | Eurostar.com

Plan to arrive two hours before your departure. We had standard tickets but, in retrospect, we wish we had paid the extra and booked business class to skip the long lines and wait in the comfort of the business class lounges. Next time! Lots of restaurants and shops to check out at St. Pancras while you wait or buy food there and bring it with you on the train. No restrictions for bringing food and beverages on the train.

Boarding Process:

  1. 90 minutes before your departure time, you are able to queue and start to proceed to scan your ticket to enter the platform. Note: you can scan earlier if you want though the signs say otherwise but there is limited room to sit once you go through so best to just be in queue when they tell you.
  2. After scanning ticket to go through the gate, you then go through security. Everything goes in the trays. No need to take off shoes or separate liquids  Just backpack/purse/anything in your pockets in one tray and luggage in another. You will have to take off coat or jacket and put in try as well. Saw someone put their coffee cup in a tray as well.
  3. After security, then you go through passport control stations. First show passport (no need to show ticket) to UK control and then you have to show passport to EU control. Then, put away your passport. You won’t need to show again when you arrive in Paris.
  4. Try to find a seat to wait. Good luck-seats are limited! Your platform # will be announced 20 minutes prior to departure and the masses will all move to a moving sidewalk that goes up to the platform. Watch for people holding signs for where you go based on your seat.

For really in depth Eurostar details, check out this site: https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/london-to-paris-by-eurostar.htm#check-in-london

ITALY TRAIN TRAVEL

Within Italy, we took the train from Florence to Venice for a weekend and also day trip to Lucca and finally train to Rome to end our trip. Please don’t think about driving in Italy. The roads are as narrow as the drivers are crazy. Just being a passenger in a car in Italy is stressful!

Arriving in Rome, the Roma Termini is a massive transportation hub. From there, you can use the metro system, buses and trams to get around the city or, even better, walk!

Pay a little more and get the Executive Club seats on the train. On our train from Florence to Rome, they even had private salons that had sliding doors to close for privacy. Great for families that need 4 seats. Make sure you know where the bathrooms are and don’t book a seat by them. Trust me. You do not want the toliet traffic or smell.

Also with Executive Club, you get to wait in the lounge. In Florence, this is really important because there is no place to sit for anyone and only pay public toliets. Now in Venice, the station has adequate seating especially in the upper food court  Florence needs to add a second floor! The lounge has a coffee machine and packages snacks and a nice water closet aka WC. Helpful Italy train links:

High speed train (we took from Florence to Rome): Italy high speed train tickets| Italotreno.it – Official website

EN – Trenitalia

Senior Offer – Trenitalia

Can non-Italian residents get the Senior discount?

CartaFRECCIA (senior discount) member-If you do not have a domicile in ITALY you can ask for a CartaFRECCIA by sending an email to the e-mail address cfreccia.application@trenitalia.it indicating name, surname, date of birth, place of birth (in case of birth in a foreign country indicate which) , an e-mail address and a telephone number and attaching a legible PDF copy of your valid passport.

Within 30 days you will receive your personal code, a password to access the dedicated online services and the CartaFRECCIA, immediately active, which will have to print and take you on your journeys when using trains operated by Trenitalia. Shipment of the CartaFRECCIA plastic card is not possible under any circumstances.

Paris Shopping

Wandering the streets of Paris and popping in with a “Bonjour” to all the neighborhood shops is a true delight. You just never know what you will find! I will caution you that if you find a treasure, buy it. On my trips, there will be times I see something and pause to consider before making a spendy purchase. I’m still regretting not picking up a vintage Louis Vuitton bag I saw in a little store in the Marais. From grand department stores to quaint little shops to flea markets, enjoy the journey!

WHERE TO SHOP:

SHOPPING – COVERED PASSAGES FILLED WITH INTERESTING SHOPS

SHOPPING – DEPARTMENT STORES

MARKETS

VINYL (My husband’s addiction-we buy vinyl wherever we go from Amsterdam to Moscow)

SPECIALTY STORES

  • Paul Art & Design https://en.paulartetdesign.com/ a little shop at the bottom of the steps to Sacre Coeur filled with fun art design items that you will want to buy. Visit with the shop bulldog terrier (shown above) who inspires many of the designs.
  • Sobral at 76 Temple. Sobral jewelry creations are made of resin, by hand, in our eco-ethical workshops-laboratories where reuse and recycling are paramount. Each piece is unique and colorful. I like these pieces because they are unusual, not heavy and reasonably priced. Wished I had bought more when I was there.
  • Discounted last year fashion at:

BOOKSTORES

THE bookstore in Paris to go to is Shakespeare and Company https://www.shakespeareandcompany.com/ which is an English-language bookstore opened in 1951 and located on Paris’s Left Bank. Check on their website for special events such as author book readings. Buy a book and, when you purchase, ask them to stamp their “Shakespeare & Co.” logo in it. Great souvenir or gift for book lovers! The book pictured above was purchased for our granddaughter and will be cherished forever.

Value Added Tax (VAT) Refund

If you plan on shopping in France, you need to know about the Value Added Tax (VAT) so you can get some money back when you leave! It’s not that complicated so here are the guidelines:

  1. Must be 16 years old and not a citizen of European Union.
  2. Must have your actual passport with you to get the paperwork from the shop when you purchase over $100 euros of merchandise.
  3. Tell shop owner you want a “VAT Tax Refund Document”. The big luxury stores will definitely provide and fill it all out for you. Some smaller shop owners may not do it but instead sometimes they offer a discount on your purchase. Ask for it!
  4. Submit your VAT refund paperwork at the airport or rail station-go to the website of wherever you are leaving from to find out where the VAT refund office is located.
  5. You may have to drop the paperwork in a box and it will be processed within 90 days OR there may be a staff person there to scan it and process it immediately. Depends on the place. Credit goes back on credit card you purchased it on.

Paris-Getting Around Town

GETTING AROUND

Walk. Everywhere. It’s fast, dependable and free. I typically walk 10,000 steps minimum on any day in Paris and have on occasion done 20,000+. There is no better way to soak up the French culture than by walking the arrondissements on foot. Enjoy the journey!

METRO/BUSES/RER TRAIN

One of my favorite moments in Paris was when we were riding the Metro and sat beside a woman who was using her commute time to sketch the people in the car with us (see picture above). It’s these type of experiences you won’t get in a taxi or Uber.

Paris is a walking city but there will be times when you need to get somewhere far away or it’s raining and then you should take one of the trifectas of public transportation: Metro, bus or RER train. Unfortunately, Paris hasn’t implemented “tap to pay” for their public transportation like the UK has. You still have to buy a paper ticket at the local convenience store or automatic machines at transportation stations. Info here: Metro map of Paris and the île-de-France region | RATP. Video to check out if you are a visual learner: https://youtu.be/Q6PLqFIvqWY how to get around Metro and RER video.

Caution: you must validate your ticket for subway and RER train in Paris. We saw a couple sitting next to us get a 35 Euro fine a piece because their tickets weren’t validated when security walked through and checked everyone. Being validated means you put in your ticket at stations to open gates and go to your platform. Leaving Versailles today, I checked my ticket after I went thru the gate and it didn’t show validated, so I went to the service desk, and they had to do it for me and then let me back through. Avoid fines. Check your ticket.

TAXIS/Uber

G7 are the official taxis so look for the G7 placard before you get in. Don’t think you can just wave down a taxi on the street. Either get your hotel doorman to get you one or use the G7 app. The train station and some major tourist sites/shopping areas will have a taxi stand so get in line and wait your turn. We’ve used Uber more than taxis in Paris. On one eventful Uber trip, we were in the car and driving toward our destination when the driver pulled over and asked us to get out so that he could do a quick U-turn and escape a protest that had popped up nearby. He didn’t want any harm to come to his beautiful Mercedes, which I can appreciate but it was quite the adventure. Leaving the car, we saw the protest quickly catch up to us and, as we ran in the opposite direction, the tear gas exploded nearby. Quite the story to tell when we returned home. Strikes and public protests are very common in France as a means for citizens to express their displeasure at the government. When these happen, transportation is disrupted, and walking is always your best option.

BOATS

Everyone visiting Paris has to take a boat ride on the Seine. This can be as quick and easy as a boat taxi (just go to boat stand on the river to get a ticket and then hop on and hop off as you desire) or as long and expensive as a dinner cruise. Choose one but experiencing Paris from the Seine is a “must do” for any first-time visitor. Book dinner cruises in advance on TripAdvisor/Viator after you see the weather forecast.

TO/FROM AIRPORT

You’ll be flying into Charles De Gaulle (CDG) or Orly (ORY). Paris traffic is terrible so I recommend public transportation that is not only cheaper but faster. Check out all your options here for both airports: Access, maps, routes – Paris Aéroport (parisaeroport.fr).

Arriving by train? Then just use the Metro (subway) system to get to where you are going from the train station.

TRAVEL APPS

Transportation apps that I have found helpful:

  • G7 for taxis
  • Uber
  • Paris Metro for subway
  • Citymapper to get around walking
  • Rome2rio for transportation
  • FLUSH for public bathroom
  • Toilettes Paris

LOSE A PASSPORT?

I hope you never lose your passport, but it happens. If you do, it’s best to be prepared with the knowledge of what to do:

  • Pack a photocopy of your passport and keep in separate place in your luggage for safe keeping.
  • Go to the US Embassy located right near the Place de Concorde next to the Hotel de Crillon.
  • Arrive early by 8 am (no appointment needed for emergencies).
  • Process takes a few hours at best so plan accordingly.
  • No cell phone allowed in the Embassy so leave it at home or they will hold for you while you get business done.
  • There is a photo booth onsite to take a passport photo or even better, travel with an extra passport photo with your photocopy of your passport.
  • Cash or card to pay. No ApplePay or GooglePay.
  • You’ll get an “emergency” passport that day to travel home with.
  • Good luck!

Paris Museums and Street Art

There are so many wonderful museums in Paris that it can be overwhelming when you start to plan your trip. How can I see them all? (Hint: you probably can’t!) Which one to go to first? How do I prioritize? Which is best? So much art, so little time. Even after going to Paris several times, I haven’t seen them all, but I’ll try to help guide you on how to choose the best experience for you.

ICONIC “MUST SEE” MUSEUMS

  • Louvre Museum https://www.louvre.fr/en go at opening time, enter through Port de Lions entrance and go directly to the Mona Lisa-you can see from the picture below that we got a clear shot of her when we visited. You could spend a week at the Louvre and not see everything. Based on how much time you have there, prioritize what you want to see and go for it! You can book a guided tour or wander aimlessly like we like to do.

SMALLER, “SEE IT ALL IN ONE DAY” MUSEUMS

  • Musee Picasso https://www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/ is located in the heart of the Marais, one of my favorite neighborhoods. This museum is an art-filled oasis in a beautiful mansion with a courtyard cafe. Heaven! What I really appreciated was the pictures and stories about the artist himself. I’ve always enjoyed his art, but I never knew much about the man behind the art. I also love goats and there was quite the collection his goat art on display! More info:
    • The museum collection includes more than 5,000 works of art (paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, prints, engravings and notebooks) and tens of thousands of archived pieces from Picasso’s personal repository, including the artist’s photographic archive, personal papers, correspondence, and author manuscripts. A large portion of items were donated by Picasso’s family after his death, in accord with the wishes of the artist, who lived in France from 1905 to 1973. (Wikipedia)
  • Musee Rodin has both outdoor gardens with sculptures and an inside art museum https://www.musee-rodin.fr/en Definitely plan a visit here on a sunny day so you can walk the gardens and enjoy the fabulous sculptures in their natural setting. More info:
    • While living in the Villa des Brillants, Auguste Rodin used the Hôtel Biron as his workshop from 1908, and subsequently donated his entire collection of sculptures – along with paintings by Vincent van GoghClaude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir that he had acquired – to the French State on the condition that they turn the buildings into a museum dedicated to his works. The Musée Rodin contains most of Rodin’s significant creations, including The ThinkerThe Kiss and The Gates of Hell. Many of his sculptures are displayed in the museum’s extensive garden. The museum includes a room dedicated to the works of Camille Claudel and one of the two castings of The Mature Age.The gardens around the museum building contain many of the famous sculptures in natural settings. Behind the museum building are a small lake and casual restaurant. Additionally, the nearby Métro stop, Varenne, features some of Rodin’s sculptures on the platform. The building is served by Métro (Line 13), RER (Line C: Invalides) and bus (69, 82, 87, 92). (Wikipedia)

Musee Marmottan Monet showcases all Monet all the time https://www.marmottan.fr/en/ and is the perfect museum for the Monet superfan, which I am. We went to his home in Giverny on another Paris trip-see separate blog post on that adventure! This museum flies under the tourist radar. The day we visited we were one of the few visitors, allowing us to sit (yes-there are benches!) and just soak in the panorama of Monet art. My husband took the panorama shot below of the empty gallery when we got there-Monet all to ourselves.

OTHER MUSEUMS THAT I HAVEN’T VISITED-YET ANOTHER REASON I NEED TO GO BACK TO PARIS SOON!

STREET ART

We love to wander the streets of Paris and look for street art, whether it’s a mural or artistically hung umbrellas. Make sure you allow enough time to see this type of art. Enjoy the journey!

Paris-Day Trip to Giverny

If you are a lover of art and especially Monet, take the time to do a day trip from Paris to Giverny. Walk the lily gardens, stroll through the artist’s house and studio, and immerse yourself in all things Monet-an experience you will never forget. Go on a beautiful day and you will swear you are walking inside a Monet painting. Some of the most beautiful photographs I’ve ever taken (with my phone camera-see below) came from our trip to Giverny. Enjoy the journey!

We visited Giverny in September and it was the perfect day-sunny with the gardens in full bloom. Make sure you dedicate a whole day to this trip, so you have adequate time for the trip from Paris and time to wander the fields dotted with haystacks and walk through the house and gardens. The lily ponds in person look exactly like Monet’s paintings-so surreal. I kept pinching myself that after viewing Monet’s paintings in museums all over the world, I was finally there at the epicenter of his inspiration. I am definitely not a gardener but even I could appreciate the layout and variety of plants and flowers. Well done, Monet!

GIVERNY BACKGROUND:

Giverny sits at the confluence of the river Seine and the river Epte in the region of Normandy. While the big draw in Giverny is Monet’s garden and home, this village has existed since neolithic times and there is a church dating from the Middle Ages to explore as well as a Museum of Impressionism and plenty of cafes and shops.

Seeing Giverny from a train window, Claude Monet rented and eventually bought a house living there from 1883 to his death in 1926. He created an amazing garden, partially diverting the river Epte for these gardens that inspired his many famous paintings of the lily pond, weeping willow trees, and Japanese bridge. His house and studio have been restored and you can wander through to get a feel for how this famous artist lived and worked. Giverny is now managed by a nonprofit Fondation Claude Monet | Giverny (fondation-monet.com).

VISIT DETAILS:

Monet’s gardens are open every day including public holidays from April 1st through November 1st, 2023. Buy timed entry tickets online at Claude Monet’s house in Giverny. We didn’t spend much time in the house/studio because it was such a beautiful day, so we were outside walking the gardens. They do have a great store there so bring a bag to carry home some souvenirs.

HOW TO GET THERE:

Giverny is 75KM (47 miles) from Paris and 4KM (2.5 miles) from the small town of Vernon where the train will stop coming from the Saint-Lazare Paris station. The fastest trains (don’t book a “local” with many stops) complete the journey in about an hour. Book your train ticket from Paris to Giverny here: Trainline : Search, Compare & Buy Cheap Train Tickets (thetrainline.com). You could also take a bus or drive, but I prefer the train ride to sit back, relax and take in the French countryside.

ONCE YOU ARRIVE IN VERNON:

When Giverny is open, a shuttle bus or tram (so cute-we took this one!) can take you from the train station to Giverny’s parking lot. The round-trip costs 10 euros or less and only takes about 15 minutes. You can buy your ticket on board.

If you really want to walk, it’s about 5KM or 3 miles and mostly flat following the tracks of an ancient railroad. Go down the Albufera street and cross the bridge over the Seine. At the roundabout ignore the signs for Giverny which are meant for cars. Go straight on, cross the first street “Route de Giverny” and take the pathway to your right just before the drugstore. Maybe next time I’ll try walking!