Walking The Streets of Hanoi

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French influence among the many cables strung between buildings.

What is it like to visit Hanoi, Vietnam? How to begin to describe this frightening, wonderfully unique place?   First, the people are as friendly and helpful as the scooters are plentiful.  The scene here is so different from Shanghai, where we live now.  There are hardly any luxury stores or cars here yet the average citizen seems to live well and be very happy.  Though we got a few hard stares from the older guys, in general we were accepted and welcomed with open arms.  The French influence is strong here in the building architecture that is old and not kept up but still lovely and the jaunty French berets worn by the old gents sitting on the sidewalks.

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Poles are still widely used to balance the load on the shoulders of the local women to carry fruit and vegetables to sell.

The women dress to impress as they might in Paris, not in jeans and casual clothes—they wear dresses and heels on those scooters as they speed around.  The restaurants here are more formal and have the white tablecloths and more French atmosphere of formality than you see in China.  Yet, there is a traditional Vietnamese element prevalent on the streets with the strong ladies wearing their Non La traditional hats and using the poles to balance their heavy load of fruit or vegetables to sell to passersby.  One aggressive lady tried to pin me against a street front with her load to try and convince me to buy her bananas and pineapples.  Always nimble to stay alive, I dodged her and kept right on walking..being nimble is paramount to living in this part of the world.

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Chicken just laying out on the sidewalk…street food in Hanoi, Vietnam-eat at your own risk.

Like China, life is lived here on the streets.  You see barbers cutting hair and everyone eating on the sidewalks, squatting on small plastic stools as they inhale Pho and rice/vegs/chicken dishes that smell wonderful.  We saw chickens running around in the streets by our hotel and meat, including chicken, laid out on the sidewalk, ready to be cooked but certainly not refrigerated or following any Western standards of food safety.  Our friend from the cruise likened the street scene to Mumbai where the traffic is insane and the people are out in mass to enjoy socializing and eating.  We saw many more Western tourists here in Hanoi than in China, probably due to the ease to enter Vietnam and the low cost.   The dong is the currency and 21,000 dong = $1 US.  So, we were paying millions of dong for items which was totally weird.  I found myself chastising Thom for paying too much for Super Glue to fix my glasses that had inconveniently broken at the start of our trip.  Turns out, he paid .50 cents for it…oops-what a bargain!  I went crazy buying quilts from a non-profit I could feel good about that helps Vietnamese women make a living and the quality is fabulous.  Baby Mia, our first grandchild, will enjoy laying on these gorgeous quilts for many years to come as Papa Thom tells stories of our adventures all over the world.  We were enchanted by the bamboo bikes also for sale at the quilt store, www.mekong-quilts-org, including a tricycle that was ADORABLE!  Other items you see for sale everywhere are lacquer boxes and bowls, ox horn cutlery, jade and silver jewelry and silk clothing.   Very inexpensive and just beautiful…I bought an empty suitcase or two just in case and they will be going back full.

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Enjoying the fine weather and the sights of Hanoi!

What sets Vietnam apart from China?  Well, China does a great job keeping their public areas clean and well manicured with beautiful flowers and plants.  Vietnam, does not.  There is trash and dirt everywhere, no flower/trees in most public spaces and wires for who knows what are strewn everywhere, hanging between building, trees, poles, you name it-it’s nuts.  There are few stop signs or traffic lights to help control traffic.  I thought China streets were unsafe until I came here and now I will actually look forward to the quieter, more sane streets of Shanghai.  Surprise!  There is a place crazier than China when it comes to traffic and it’s Vietnam.  I would still encourage you to visit but be prepared to be nimble and have nerves of steel if you want to cross ANY street in Hanoi, Vietnam.  A glass or two of wine takes the edge off too! 

Travelling with Thom-Always an Adventure

So, I asked him, “Do you have any weapons?” before we left the house.  Why?  Because Thom likes to be prepared and that, at the very least, means a swiss army knife is on his person at all times and could also mean that he has a knife or two in as well owing to his Idahoan “survival” mentality for the many years we lived there in the woods.  Thank God he had to give up the guns when we moved to China.  Having grown up in NYC, he was elated to get some firepower to protect his family in the wilderness when we moved to Idaho…latent mountain man that he is.  Knowing his love of being prepared, I got him a “survival tool” this Christmas with lots of handy uses all in a small metal square including a very sharp edge, similar to a box cutter.  WTF—this is not something you need on an airplane, right?  Who knew he would stash it in his wallet and forget about it.  Now, that could be considered a weapon by many TSA agents, right?  Prompting a strip search and possibly being led away and never returning in a foreign land, right?

As I breezed through security at Shanghai Pudong Airport and looked around, Thom was getting the second degree from a security agent.  He was emptying his wallet, shrugging his shoulders & playing the “foreign card” of innocence while the gal and guy argued over what she saw on the xray screen of his possessions..  “There!  There!  In the wallet!” the gal insisted  in Mandarin, of course, while Thom looked around innocently.  Finally, behind the business cards, credit cards, etc. Thom pulled out the offensive weapon-his Christmas “survival” gift.  Luckily, they just confiscated it and we quickly left the area, really ran, before he had to “bend and snap”.  Of course, they probably flagged his ass from now on he will get the ultra deluxe pat down with the anal probe for future flights but for now, we were on our way to Vietnam, weaponless.

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Oswaga, I love you..massage me….please…

Up to the VIP lounge we went because I had splurged on business class for us to travel, not knowing how bad coach would be on Vietnam Airlines.   After all, the seat selection choices included “window smoking with infant”, so I expected the worst.  The VIP lounge was lovely and Thom spent his time lounging in the Oswaga massage chair where he whimpered with delight as it kneaded and heated his back that is always in need of attention.  If that wasn’t heaven enough, he then went to the bathroom where he found his beloved TOTO-heated seat and all.   No toliet has ever been loved and revered as much as TOTO.  Really, it’s a miracle we ever made it to Vietnam at all.  Thom would have been happy living in the VIP Lounge for a few days, alternating between massage and TOTO.

But I pried his ass out of the massage chair, which was occupied by a waiting passenger as soon as we looked like we were leaving,  and we were off for the flight to Hanoi….business class.  BIG MISTAKE!  Now, Thom knows what it’s like and it will be impossible for him to go back to economy on those long hauls to the US while I am flying business class courtesy of my company when I am truly on business.   I told him it was no big deal but his eyes bugged out with the fine china, 3 forks/2 knives/3 spoons for all those delicious courses of food starting with tuna/salmon/fish and moving onto delicious pork and chocolate mousse.  DAMN!  What was I thinking??  And if the food wasn’t enough, the free Western magazines and hot towels clinched the deal.  Having one attendant service his every needs took his pampering to a whole new level.  Thank God they didn’t massage his feet, though he took off his shoes just in case they offered.  Blanket?  Water? Coffee?  Tea? Private bathroom?  Why, yes please, Thom now wants all those things.  Of well, you only live once so you might as well travel in style if you can.  And he’s worth it.

As I sipped my Taihitian Cocktail,or as I call it “a beach in a glass”, I allowed myself to appreciate the many blessings in my life including travelling with Thom.  You just never know what he will do next but I am guaranteed he will always make me laugh.

Good Evening Vietnam!

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Dinner here is served on and in the streets

Holy.  Hell.  We landed in Hanoi and immediately inhaled a smell that made a lasting impression and not in a good way.  The humid hot air enveloped us as we climbed into the car for a long ride to the hotel, Calypso Grand, in the Old Quarter.  In the darkness, I could make out very rundown French style buildings yet could see big screen TV’s in many apartments.  The billboards screamed technology–Samsung, Panasonic, Sony, etc. but the vibe was more like being stuck in the 1950’s.  The Vietnamese love karaoke bars and massage parlors just as much as the Chinese do–they are everywhere!

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Café on the corner by our hotel

Scooters dominate the streets and here they are family vehicles, accommodating Mom, Dad and the baby.  There are no street lights or traffic signals and it’s even more crazy than China.  It’s the last day of the Tet Holiday and everyone was on the street squatting on little plastic stools eating their dinners late into the evening.  We walked by buildings to peer inside, seeing decay on the outside and a much more renovated interior, many with circular staircases and one with a Porsche parked on the first floor.

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Calypso Grand Hotel in Hanoi-yes, rose petals on the bed!

At our hotel, we were greeted with a smile and told to sit down emphatically so we could be served a fresh fruit welcome drink.  Our room was very charming with a French balcony overlooking the busy street.  There are no big chain hotels, only small boutique hotels lining the streets.  We immediately stowed our bags and hit the streets, literally in Thom’s case as he fell walking off a rugged curb and sprained his ankle.  The streets and sidewalks are all broken and hard to walk on especially at night.  He’s sitting here now with a cold Coke can on his ankle trying to stop the swelling.  No Walgreen’s on the corner for the needed items–we will learn to pack more medical supplied in the future.

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Thom rocking his dragon T-shirt

Being a trooper and not wanting to go back to the hotel immediately, Thom hung in there and we sat at the café on the corner where we watched the scooter parade and enjoyed some tea/wine.  Tomorrow, we leave early to go to Ha Long Bay to enjoy an overnight cruise on a junk boat.  I can’t wait to see Vietnam by daylight!