WARNING: Do NOT read this post if you are a child, have a weak stomach or love sheep. REALLY. I’M NOT JOKING. This interlude may have scarred Patti for life and instead of remembering the cuddly Panda’s we saw at the zoo, she’ll never forget the sheep doomed to die. That being said, it is China and as we say here, you can die fast or you can die slow. The sheep unfortunately had to go the route of the former vs. the latter.
While strolling as a group to the local wet market as part of our cooking class, little did we know we were going to witness a ritual to celebrate Eid al-Adha, the feast of sacrifice. NOOOOOOO…we thought we would pick up some ingredients for our lovely lunch and then merrily skip back to Helen’s apartment for our class. Along the way we saw the cutest sheep tied to the fence so we stopped to take some photos. It’s not often you see live animals in the streets of Shanghai, so I had to take a photo of the boy feeding the cute sheep a leaf. Little did I know that would be his last meal on Earth.
BEFORE
Coming out of the market, we saw a group of people with their phones out taking pictures. As we got closer, we saw that the cuddly sheep had been sacrificed and were strung up by their hooves and were being butchered right there on the street IN FRONT OF CHILDREN! While Emily, the vegetarian in our cooking class, quickly ran away screaming, I felt I had to document what was the most gruesome sight I have ever seen. If I wasn’t somewhat of a vegetarian before, I am now. Thom quickly informed me as he shot photos, that this must be the hajj faithful offering a sacrifice by slaughtering a sheep with the meat going to the needy.
AFTER
In the Shanghai Daily, Thom had read an article on the festival that 1.5 billion Muslim around the world celebrate. While I respect the culture, it was shocking to see it played out in public for all to see. But that’s why I came on this adventure-to experience new and different cultures–so it was fitting that I witnessed this while still in China. Still, the sheep were so cute….
We enjoyed our cooking class this summer with James so much that we just had to do it all over again with our visitors, Patti and Larry. What fun! With Dodo as our guide, we walked from the subway meeting point off the 10 line and walked to the local wet market for all our ingredients. For $50 US per person, our class of six headed to the market and then off to Helen’s apartment to learn how to cook Chinese style.
Marti and Emily, from the U.S. teaching at the International School in Shanghai, were our other class mates. These classes always attract such interesting people and we love hearing about their adventures. They had met in Thailand teaching and had taught in four countries. I can only imagine what fun they have learning from their diverse students and travelling the world. I’m not sure if that would fit our lifestyle but it is intriguing.
Black chicken vs. white chicken??
Back to the food, though. We had warned Patti and Larry to wear masks because the smells are POTENT PLUS at the market. The lower floor is all meat and seafood with claws and hooves taking center stage as well as live fish and turtles and frogs plus the option of black vs. white chicken. So many choices, especially for Emily, the vegetarian in our group. NOT! There were bones and meat everywhere with no refrigeration in sight. It’s just not done here in China.
Patti working with Dodo, our guide, to buy ingredients at the wet market
On the upper floor, you can buy your fruit, veggies, eggs (no refrigeration again), noodles and spices. We enjoyed learning that the darker eggs are less healthy than the lighter eggs because they are farm raised. The black eggs take one month to go through the salting process that make them black. Patti handled the money and bought our Chinese chives, garlic, sausage and eggplant. Our menu consisted of eggs with black fungus, spring rolls, paozi buns and eggplant with sauce.
Right off the bat, I almost sliced off a finger with the huge cleaver so Helen, the cooking instructor, quickly took it away from me and let me watch until I insisted I would be more careful. We chopped and mixed and fried our way to delicious (or so they tell me-I didn’t eat a thing due to my weak stomach) while we washed it all down with a rice wine that had some kick and tea.
Thom rocking the hat and apron at cooking classPatti and Larry have much better knife skills than me
When in China, right? I had been here a whole year and never gotten custom tailored clothes but with less than 10 days left for me here, I threw caution (and a few hundred RMB) to the wind and decided I would always regret not doing it so off to the South Bund Fabric Market we went! HOT DAMN AND HOLD ME BACK-It’s time to design some fashion to remember my stay in China!
Patti getting measured for her new coatSizing me up for a French cuff shirt
Planning ahead with my favorite shirt in tow as a sample, we hit the market after negotiating for yet more jewelry from the street vendors. 10 RMB ($1.50US) for earrings! Thom made a new friend with the sales lady from Tibet and I got some cool Christmas presents. The market here is three floors consisting mostly of tailors hawking Chinese dresses, suits, outerwear, dresses, etc. so it can be very overwhelming with aggressive hawkers, “LADY, YOU NEED A SUIT???” We had gotten some tailor recommendations from our expat group but, of course, forgot the info so we wandered around. Before you start selecting fabrics and start to negotiate for “best and final friend price”, decide what you are willing to spend and then let the fun begin.
I originally went to just get a French cuff business shirt and a knock off of my favorite knit shirt from Kenneth Cole. We got all the way to the third floor before I found a knit vendor and a friendly merchant named May. She and I picked out fabrics, colors and went over the design to replicate my sample shirt with long sleeves instead of short. For only 150 RMB, I’ll be getting two knit shirts custom tailored to my specs and designed by me in the colors and fabric I picked out. I’m thinking these will quickly become my most flattering and favorite shirts-pics to come.
Thrilled to be designing again (back in the day I was a clothing buyer), I asked her to guide me to a vendor to create my cotton French cuff shirt next, knowing she would get guanxi (good will) from this referral. The next tailor was not so conversant but together we managed to design a special shirt with a different pattern for the inner collar and cuffs to spice up the classic white shirt. Picking out the collar design and the cuff style, we were done and I parted with 120 RMB($20 US) for my shirt that hopefully will fit better than any I can get off the rack at Zara.
I redesigned this dress in dark grey with long sleeves, lower neckline and longer length.
By then, Patti had gotten the designing fever and decided she just had to join in and started trying on coats with my new tailor friend, May. Opting for a classic car coat style in brown with a lining to be picked out by May, who by know we trusted explicitly, I started to try on dresses. I had been a dress buyer a long, long time ago and designed lines myself of dresses so I had a great time picking out fabrics and taking one of their sample dress as a template to lengthen, change the sleeve length, lower the neckline in a dark grey heavy knit fabric. The fact that I could shimmy my way into their sample size dress at all was a minor miracle. Can’t wait to see the finished dress!
Thom’s getting a new leather coat for Christmas
Now it was Thom’s turn to get the cool biker leather jacket he has been dreaming of with zipped gusset sleeves and soft leather that was the “good stuff”, which meant more RMB. While I shopped for dragon cuff links to go with my new shirt, he was measured by two tailors who appreciated that he was one of the few expats able to actually fit into their samples, being the tall thin dude that he is. Let’s face it, most expats here have drank a few too many steins of beer and are carrying 50+ extra pounds. Not my fit and trim hubby-he loves fashion and isn’t afraid of some style in his wardrobe. As you can see by the picture, he also isn’t afraid to make a fashion statement, rocking his Hong Kong shirt in support of the protestors.
Thom will be styling’ in Seattle with his custom made boots and custom tailored leather jacket. We went for his initial boot fitting last week and the ombre grey side stitched boots with red trim will be done before we head home. Yes, the boot model for his first fitting is pink but the final result will be a work of art, designed from several styles to incorporate an inner zipper, side accent laces (red) with toe stitching in red as well. We love our shoes and will also fondly remember our adventures in China as we stroll the streets of Seattle sipping our Americano’s from Stumptown.
Thom’s custom boot model is pink but the final product will be ombre greyThom is thrilled with the boot he designed
With my best buddy Patti along for the martini tour, we have been sampling Shanghaitini’s as often as possible. Believe it or not, Patti had NEVER EVER tasted a martini before in her whole entire life. WHAT??? I am so honored to be able to be the one to initiate this martini virgin into the ways of the tini.
Appletini and Me
Of course, first stop was Morton’s who has an incredible Happy Hour with a variety of martini’s with unlimited steak sandwiches too for only 45 RMB. What a bargain for strong alcohol and bloody meat that won’t kill you. SCORE! That being said, don’t ever eat off the menu at Morton’s cause it will cost you a fortune. Still smarting from that $350 US dinner bill we had this year after I failed to realize just how expensive steak is in China. Never again, Thom! I don’t care how good that filet mignon was, it’s not made of gold.
But back to the alcohol….While I used to avoid any drinks with ice and any drinks that even touched ice to cool down the alcohol due to the water toxicity in the ice, I have since gotten over it and embraced cold cocktails in China. Bring on the margarita’s and martini’s–I am fearless AND stupid now.
Patti enjoying the second martini of her life at Blue Marlin
With a cinnamon sugar rim and a nice pour, Patti enjoyed her first sip and that was it. A martini fan was born. Though I still drink martini’s too fast vs. sipping wine, I feel a need to mix up my alcohol choices. A woman doesn’t live by wine alone but, I guess you could.
At the Blue Marlin (where we have been eating free for months due to winning a 2500 RMB gift certificate at the Irish Ball), we decided a martini tasting was in order. While the rim was only sugar, the taste was still there–sweet and sour and green all over-yum. Looking forward to tasting more martini’s in Seattle when I return. I’m betting Patti finds a martini bar in Indiana to continue tasting Appletini’s Midwest Style.
I know it’s cliché but we just had to go to one of the tourist shows they put on in Beijing. I had a recommendation from a local that The Legend of Kungfu at the Red Theatre was one to experience. So, off we went to check it out.
Thom, Patti & Larry pose in front of the Kung Fu boy at Red Theater in Beijing
Arriving early (you never know with Beijing traffic so you leave early and hope to get there on time), we wandered the gift shops and took photos of the young boy sitting on the throne outside the entrance. Finding a place to relax on a balcony, Thom and Patti quickly took off their shoes and let the massage chairs get to work on their tired feet after walking all day. Ahhhh…..never mind who else had their feet in their recently, all hygiene was forgotten and pulsating commenced until the show began.
This is the “Thom walked my ass all over China” look on Patti’s face
We had paid about $55 US for our Row 16 middle seats and, as the primarily Western tour group population filed in, we were quickly surrounded by a full theater. With a pulsating beat on the wood blocks by multiple bald Kung Fu dudes placed around the sides of the theater, the show began with lots of strobe lights, fog and action. The loose story was about a boy being tested by hard challenges and bewitched by a beautiful fairy (why are women always the troublemakers??) before he could practice Kungfu and Zen to become a master and ascend to the sacred goal of enlightenment with the obligatory old dude with super long goatee to champion his efforts and teach him the wise ways of the world.
The best parts for me were the incredible acrobatic action between the couple twirling high above the stage by holding only fabric panels and then when he did the feats of various incredibly sharp objects being jammed onto his body. Who knows how they withstand that pressure but perhaps abs of steel??? Looked painful to me but made for good theater and probably some bruises.
The Young Man is tested by many challenges in his Kung Fu journey
At the end, you were allowed onstage with the actors to take photos if you bought some outrageously overpriced gifts in the shop. We made haste and just took some photos of the group by the stage and then walked the dark streets begging for a cab to take us home. Amazingly, Thom flagged one down who, of course, had turned off the meter and charged us double for the ride. When in Beijing and it’s dark, you do not argue. You just hand over the RMB and be happy you found a ride.
Cast members at end of show pose for pictures..if you buy something from their gift shop
Our day at Beihai Park encompassed so many fun adventures–riding around the lake in the Duck Boat, dancing and seeing beautiful pagodas. Seeing a bell tower, I forked over 10 RMB a piece to climb the stairs and ring the big brass bell. The attendant pantomimed ringing it 3 x per person for luck in the new year. We let Patti do the honors and my ears are still reverberating. Climbing down the narrow stairs, we decided they were made for local feet vs. our big old soles. Just like my other size dimensions, I am considered large here but looking forward to being average to small back in the U.S.
69 Steps to the White Pagoda! Climb baby climb!
After the 69 (yes, Patti counted them) steps up to the White Pagoda, we enjoyed the view of the lake and park and heard beautiful music being made so off we went next to find the source of the pleasant sounds. Nearing the lake shore, we saw a crowd gathered and investigated to find the music blasting and more dancing going on. Two lovely ladies in red were delighting the crowd with their graceful moves. Kids joined in and everyone watched as they graced us with their presentation. It’s moments like these that celebrate the happiness of small things and joy in movement which I will always remember about our time in China. Think I could get Seattlites to dance more in the parks…in the rain? Maybe choreograph a routine with umbrellas?
After a rest and a pretzel we had scavenged earlier from our hotel breakfast, we went to look for a rickshaw ride. Not wanting to slow down for lunch (more people put food as a priority but we do not-a practice that Patti and Larry are getting used to but probably not loving), Thom and I munched on the energy bars, fruit and water that we always carry with us to eat on the run to save time and money. Patti and Larry had wanted to go on a rickshaw so despite Thom’s insistence that he never, ever was going to do this tourist trap ride, we found two gents reclining on their rides waiting for a fare. As the negotiator for our group, we had decided that 100 RMB would be our highest rate to pay and that’s what we got our rides to agree to. Patti was afraid that the old guys would have a heart attack pedaling our asses all over the hutongs but luckily they had electric bikes so no one was killed on our journey, though we did almost become bus fodder when our dude defied the odds crossing the street just as a big one tried to kill us. Guess it wasn’t our day to die as the rickshaw hit a burst of speed and just barely evaded it.
Rickshaw Romance with my one true love!
We flew into the hutong in our electric rickshaw but stopped several times for photos, especially after our driver became enamored with Thom’s cool 1020 Nokia phone to take the pictures. He wanted us to do several poses each time and then review his results with Thom. After stopping for a pose at a classic red door and then into a hutong courtyard, we ended our ride with lots of smiles and thank you’s. Thom admitted he had a good time and it was a nice way to support the local economy. Very romantic and a ride I won’t soon forget!
After wandering through a hutong by the Forbidden City and stumbling into Beihai Park by accident last year, I have always wanted to go back and experience this beautiful park again. Locals dancing, boats gliding around the lake and singers entertaining the local crowd plus beautiful temples make this an enchanting place.
Ladies in Red dancing for the crowds in Beihai Park
Now that we are on the Farewell Tour and enjoying our last visit to Beijing, it became more urgent to make it happen. So on our last day in town and with the heavy pollution clearing and the sun shining, we were able to explore again the most beautiful place in Beijing.
Patti & I hanging on for dear life–no life preservers provided.
Going in a new entrance this time, we immediately saw the Duck Boats, still available for rent due to being early in the day. Off we went! Sign a release of liability? NOPE!! Instructions on how to steer or safety instructions? HELL NO!! Life preservers or any type of flotation device to save our sorry asses if we have an accident? ARE YOU F&%KING KIDDING? This is China and, as with anything in China, you are on your own so you better pray you don’t get hurt.
Thom and Larry started us off in charge with Patti and I enjoying the lake views and variety of boats–dragon boats for the many, little wood electric boats, round tulip-like boats and our Duck variety all raced around the lake. Occasionally we saw a speed boat cutting through the traffic to get across the lake and deliver some important person to their destination. The more money, the bigger and faster the boat. In China, it’s all about the status. I’m not sure what our Duck Boat says about our status but I’m betting no one was very impressed with us. Since I had just taught a class where the theme was, “Be The Duck!” (as in a duck is calm on the top of the water gliding gracefully while underneath the water (where no one can see) the duck is peddling fast and furiously), it was a foregone conclusion that we had to pick the Duck as our boat of choice.
Needing some exercise, I took over the peddling and steering to take a tour of the lake. Crazy parents let their spoiled kids steer so it was like bumper boats with one family intentionally ramming us with their electric boat while we pedaled like maniacs to avoid them. BAM! Since they were aiming for us, there was no avoiding it so you might as well smile and hold on for your deal life. Luckily no damage and after lots of laughter on their part, we continued on our journey around the lake.
After watching the ferries from our apartment window daily and how they turn and slam into the docks, I mimicked their moves as we approached the end of our journey. BAM! I’m such a local now. The attendant hooked us with his long pole to tether us to the dock and off we went to our next adventure in the park.
Dancing is part of the fabric of Asian culture. I love seeing the ladies dancing every night in pretty much any available space on our neighborhood sidewalks. You go girls! In the parks, couples glide gracefully around the pavement on weekends showing off their moves. From Hanoi to Beijing to Shanghai to Ho Chi Minh City, we have thoroughly enjoyed watching the action but never actively participating until this weekend. FINALLY! Amazing what our impending move back to the U.S. will do to create a sense of urgency.
I felt the draw of the music and, along with my best friend Patti, who is visiting from the US, we jumped right in and joined the couples at Beihai Park in Beijing on a beautiful sunny Saturday. Thom never got the dancing gene so he took videos while Patti and I took a turn around the pavement. To think that once we danced as children in our garage back in Indiana when we were growing up and now have the opportunity to waltz together around a Beijing park. HOT DAMN LIFE IS GOOD!
Despite having a ball, we were obviously the worst ballroom dancers on the pavement. Practice makes perfect and I’m betting these folks are out weekly if not daily to get their groove on. We got lots of stares, grins and the universal thumbs up but when we paused, one couple immediately approached us, pantomiming that the gentleman wanted to dance with Patti or I. OF COURSE KIND SIR!
Smelling of tobacco and light on his feet, he guided me through the classic moves and off we twirled. I couldn’t help but watch his feet constantly so as to try and follow his lead but he firmly took hold of my hand and waist to guide me as well. As anyone who knows me can attest, I don’t follow well or at all in any situation. So, it was a miracle that I didn’t maim him as we moved around the park to the music. Luckily I had on my trusty lightweight TOMS so I was relatively light on my feet and couldn’t hurt him too bad with my clumsiness. Thom, Patti and Larry cheered us on and took lots of picture and video.
As I ended our dance and gave him back to his much more talented partner, I gave him a huge thumbs up and thanked him for sharing this experience in Beihai Park, finally fulfilling a desire to dance like the locals. Next step, jumping in with the ladies who dance nightly on the corner by my apartment. I hope I can keep with them and that they are as welcoming to let us take part in their lovely dancing ritual. Video to come–WHAT FUN!
Crooked, sloping, uneven, and totally awesome-steps at the Great Wall
Luckily, I had to be in Beijing this week for business, so we made time to visit the Great Wall one last time–my fourth visit. After a rainy travel day yesterday, today was blue skies, clean air and cool weather–WHAT??? IS THIS BEIJING, REALLY? Patti and Larry, our visitors, think we are lying about the pollution in China because since they have come, it has been the best weather of the year. Perfect time to visit China is late September/early October while the trees are still green, the coal heat isn’t being used yet and the fields of corn aren’t being burned yet after the harvest. There is a this very narrow window of normality that I am sure all citizens rejoice and revel in. I know we are!
So, we set out at 8 a.m. for the Great Wall with our driver, who saved our lives not once but TWICE when he swerved to avoid the crazy drivers who had missed their exit and then decided to dead stop on the highway to back up. Thank you driver! I was sitting in the middle of the back and holding onto Patti for dear life because I had no seat belt. Safely arriving, the new Great Wall Guest Center was barely busy with all the new shop areas just coming to life. They sadly are opening a Burger King in the complex-yuck!
Sharing the Great Wall with our friends, Patti & Larry, was awesome.
After the lovely climb to the top on the ski lift, we climbed and enjoyed taking lots of pictures, though we can’t possibly take more than our local friends who can pose for what feels like hours when we are waiting to use the same space. Get on with it, folks! Snap the photos and move on. One couple actually dragged the huge wedding dress to the top to take their wedding photos. Can’t imagine the coordination or how the bride had to probably change into it to keep it clean. Amazing what you will do for a cool wedding photo!
SO FUN! Toboggan your way down the mountain!
After traipsing up and down the crooked, leaning, worn steps through several gatehouses, we proceeded to the most anticipated part of the trip–tobogganing down the mountain. I’ve done this twice before and it is FUN! The crazy local group who had hogged the best spot to take photos was just in front of us. I warned our group to wait because I just knew they would stop mid-mountain to take a few photos and they surely did just that. Thom was screaming at them to move on so we wouldn’t plow into them but we had to stop on the slide and wait them out. A lovely couple from the Netherlands behind us thought me insensitive as I screamed at the top of my lungs, “GO. DAMN. IT!” several times but I reassured them that I live in China and locals would only understand this type of communication. Thom decided to let go of the brake and see how they liked to being bumped forward-the ugly NYC cab driver in him oozed out. FINALLY, with us and the track workers yelling at them to “GO,GO, GO” they went, smiling all the way having held up dozens of people but they got their pictures and that’s all that mattered to them.
After some bargaining for more presents (Patti is getting as good or better than me!), we started on the two hour ride home-I won’t miss Beijing traffic for sure but I will miss the Great Wall. There is nothing like it and I will always be in awe that I got to experience it not once but four times while I lived in China. WOW!
I have always wanted to cycle around Century Park and HOT DAMN-Saturday was the day! With abnormally blue skies and puffy white clouds (am I really in Shanghai??), we set out with Patti & Larry to make my dream come true. The bicycle built for four with a little canopy was all the rage in and around the park. For only 100 RMB an hour (300 RMB deposit) we climbed aboard with Thom at the wheel. Now, with his driving behavior (he drove a NYC cab for God’s sake), this wasn’t the best decision as within yards of staring out, I was screaming out in fear. DON’T RUN OVER THAT CHILD! While we could all pedal, we found out quickly that only the driver really had control over the steering and the brake-note to self, learn these type of things before you decide who will be the driver.
Bicycling around Century Park
Quickly, Thom found out he was all powerful and I had no control. WRONG! The locals were letting their small children drive the carts instead of taking control so it was Thom vs. toddlers fighting for space on the broad lanes around the park and lake and Thom soon found out that the toddlers wanted to own the road. Cool and sunny, the weather was so perfect to enjoy the water and greenery everywhere if we weren’t so frightened that someone was going to get run over by Thom. The folks had already pitched their tents by mid-day and were ready to have a full day of fun in the relatively clean air. We stopped by the bonsai park where really big ass bonsai’s were laid out to walk through. We killed two bonsai’s at our house so I have healthy respect for these massive ones being able to live outside in the normally murky air.
Just a short cab ride away, after jumping aside while the pesticide truck went by spraying chemicals on plants and pedestrians alike, we had a very western lunch at the Blue Marlin. Ensconced in an outdoor mall with the usual H & M and Starbucks, we enjoyed the lovely weather eating outside and wrapping our hands around big honking hamburgers. Not me, of course, since I get sick easily and had already experienced turbulence early in the day so I just had a liquid lunch and a granola bar. For some reason, screwdrivers don’t make me sick. Lucky me!
Happy workers spraying deadly pesticides on bushes and pedestrians alike
Then, adequately fueled up, we were off to shop the AP market. We were regulars now and have several shop favorites where the ladies are cheerful and give us local pricing vs. the tourist markups. I was able to bargain like a mule for Patti to obtain the necessary souvenirs for loved ones back home. Larry had the misfortune to trust Thom to bargain for him for an item. When told how much he paid, I laughed and thus was given the challenge to go buy the same thing for less to see if I could. Don’t taunt a mule-it turns ugly quick. I was able to get the same item for half the price Thom got. MULE WINS EVERY TIME. Larry will never forgive Thom or forget he overpaid. Thom told him to cost average and let it go. Lesson learned, Larry!
Tired with bags full of cool stuff for Christmas presents for our loved ones, we eagerly went home to put our feet up. If only every day could be foot massage day! Oh, wait, we live in China (at least for another month) and we have a VIP Dragonfly Massage Card with a big balance of RMB to use up before we move home so every day IS massage day. Hallelujah and bring on the masseuses.
Travels with Melinda 