Enjoying the Spa Life in Shanghai

Some might call us pampered after reading this story but, hey, life can be rough here in China so we have embraced the spa culture here with open arms…and backs and feet and hands and… well,you get the idea, right?  Sure, we get our cookies and groceries delivered to our door but only because the toxic air outside makes it less appealing to walk to the stores and restaurants.  Of course we have an Ayi but all Expat’s do and it’s our way to help the local economy by employing Pink, who takes sure good care of us.  I wonder if she’ll consider a move to Boise eventually.  I think if we had a car/driver like most expats do, we would be stupid spoiled.  However, we do keep it real daily by taking the subway and walking the streets like locals, which means we are nimble and can dodge the spitballs and pools of bodily fluid with the best of them.  Thus, the need to be pampered thoroughly and often by Dragonfly Massage, our chosen oasis of serenity and happiness….ahhhh….

2 for 88rmb cocktails plus free pizza & munchies at Isola and the view is priceless
2 for 88rmb cocktails plus free pizza & munchies at Isola and the view is priceless

When offered the Dragonfly Spring Special to receive an additional 1000RMB in gift certificates if we renewed our 5000RMB VIP membership, we were all over it.  WHY, YES PLEASE!  When we opted for the VIP Package with Dragonfly in late fall, we thought it would last a really long time—surely a year.  How many massages does a couple need, really? Turns out the answer to that question is LOTS!  As our massage date nights have become more frequent,  one might say addictive, the VIP card balance was declining rapidly so we both deemed it necessary and prudent to allocate serious funds to continue our habit.  We’ll just eat less.  Sure.  That’s it.

Happy Hour at Isola at the IFC Mall in Pudong
Happy Hour at Isola at the IFC Mall in Pudong with view of the Pearl Tower

Friday night rolled around and so we set off to enjoy Happy Hour and then on to a night of Mani/Pedi’s.  When Morton’s was too busy and couldn’t fit us in, we went next door to Isola and enjoyed the floor to ceiling view of the Pearl Tower and excellent service.  After toasting the good life in Shanghai and quaffing down a few martini’s and pizza (just 88RMB for 2 drinks/free food–saving $$ for massages), we descended into the subterranean lower levels of the swanky IFC Mall in Pudong to Dragonfly.

Thom being a mani/pedi virgin, his feet and hands needed some serious attention.  His cuticles were crying for attention, well more like screaming in madness, and his lucky salonist had the honor of clipping and chopping enough of Thom’s DNA off to create a Thom MiniMe.  Looking like shaved parmesian curls only far less appetizing, the dead skin peeled off Thom’s foot in panels and covered the floor.  Get these ladies a Roomba!

Thom feeling pampered
Thom feeling pampered

As I snapped photos and Thom joked around, his salonist laughed and thought Thom was hilarious, which of course he is. Thom, ambivalent about the whole mani/pedi process before trying it, is now a huge fan and considering a return visit soon.  It is addictive to have those clean cuticles!

Leaving Dragonfly a shoe size smaller and light on our feet, we walked home and rested up for a second round of spa treatments on Saturday morning.

Facial Time!
Facial Time!

Using our free spa packages that we won at the Irish Ball, we arrived at the Jungle Spa bright and early Saturday morning (that’s 10 a.m. in China–no one moves early here)  for our facials and massages.  While we had lotions and potions applied to our skin and she launched an attack on my nose with a sharp instrument, our feet basked in a foot sauna machine with rolling balls of wonderful torture.  Spoiled?  I reflected on that as she rubbed my head.  Okay, maybe.  We were both new to facials and decided that we might have to add this to our rotation of spa treatments.  With skin as soft as a baby bottom and looking 10 years younger at least (perhaps there was some aroma therapy going on too that made us hallucinate) we headed off to pamper the rest of our bodies with a 70 minute hot oil stone full body massage.

In a room for two, we put on the teeny tiny undergarments provided (let’s hope they only use once and throw away) and laid face down on the table.  These lovely little ladies proceeded to thump..HARD…knead and dig into our muscles with such gusto that at one point as she bent my elbow back to press into my own flesh, I cried out “NO” and stopped it cold before a bone snapped.  Damn, those hot stones (not pebbles but big ass rocks) were being rubbed into my spine as the hot oil just dripped off, running down my face onto the floor.  I have never had a massage that touched almost every part of my body with a few square inches of exception.  I wonder what she thought of my Chinese “Happiness” tatoo that only Thom had seen up to now.  Bet they chatted about that after we left-those crazy Laowai’s that we are!

Thom's massage outfit was a bit larger than mine!
Thom’s massage outfit was a bit larger than mine!
Massage outfit-yep, that's it!
My massage outfit-yep, that’s it!

Dripping oil, we showered off and compared notes on what got rubbed and how it felt.  Thom was glad I was in the room with him so there were no “happy endings” though this was a nice legit place so I’m sure THAT never happens there.  Thom said he could hear my back bones cracking and wondered if I would survive to walk another day.  Now, he didn’t stop to ask during the massage if I was okay because he was enjoying his so much but nice to know he thought about me.  Surprisingly, though it did hurt ALOT during the massage, I was still able to get up off the table and take a walk afterward with no ill effects. HALLELUJAH!  We look forward to taking our friends, Larry and Patti, here when they visit us.  Patti may never go back to Indiana after a full day spa treatment in Shanghai.

Now, as the rain beats down hard, I am happy that I am wrapped in a soft, warm blanket at home, smooth skin and all, getting ready for a House of Cards marathon with my best friend..after nap time, of course.  What an exhausting day!

 

 

BEST. COOKIE. EVER.

BEST. COOKIE. EVER.  Trust me, these thighs don’t lie.  Yes, I know eating dense, chewy, flavorful cookies isn’t necessarily the healthiest food choice.  I also know life is short and living is hard in China.  Cookies for dinner?  What a great idea!  Having found Strictly Cookies, it’s hard not to place that next order when the last cookie has crumbled.  Oh, did I forget to say that THEY DELIVER.  Yes, fresh baked cookies delivered to your door at no charge.  Hello, doorman?  Yes, send those cookies right up… to my mouth!

Nom Nom Dessert Bar in Shanghai
Nom Nom Dessert Bar in Shanghai

Even though we could have played it the easy way and went online to order several pounds of baked bliss, I have to work off those cookie calories somehow so tonight we walked miles to go to the epicenter of all this cookie goodness and see where the magic is created.  Nom Nom Dessert Café is the bakery/storefront for the Strictly Cookies empire. And by empire, I mean they are carried at a few locations in Shanghai like Egghead Bagels (best bagels in Shanghai) where I found them and also sold online, though I predict big things in the future for this entrepreneur.

What to choose-PB, Choc. Chip, Oatmeal, Choc. Brownie
What to choose-PB, Choc. Chip, Oatmeal, Choc. Brownie

Lexis Comstock founded Strictly Cookies in 2010 when she couldn’t find cookies to her standard in Shanghai.  Sure, there are bakeries everywhere and carbs are easy to come by but cookies like these are rare anywhere in the world, let alone in China.  I signed up for their newsletter and was rewarded with witty writing (“unsubscribe from this list because you prefer cupcakes”) and updates on the seasonal cookie selections.  Got to love a gal who can bake AND write. Check them out at http://www.strictlycookies.com or on Facebook and drool all over the pics of the yummy treats–one good reason to live in Shanghai!  Cookies forever and always is their motto.  I agree.

Red velvet cookies with a side of cream cheese frosting. WHY YES, PLEASE.  Bourbon in my cookie milkshake.  BELLY UP TO THE COOKIE BAR!  Mango sorbet sandwiched between chocolate chip cookies.  SUMMER IN MY MOUTH.

Cookie+Ice Cream=Heaven
Cookie+Ice Cream=Heaven

 

Scorpions to Soldiers–Street Scene in Beijing

What a difference a day makes!  We arrived in Beijing to apocalyptic pollution-350+ AQI which means the air was “hazardous” and choking full of bad shit that was being sucked into our ever dying lungs yet the locals walked around without masks and went about their daily lives like it was no big deal.  And I thought I had low standards after getting used to 150 AQI days in Shanghai.  I strapped on my new 3M mask that was awkward but no doubt necessary even if I didn’t have a pollution app on my phone warning me of dire consequences if I stepped outside unprotected.

3M lung saving mask
3M lung saving mask

Today, as the CPPCC & NPCC meetings take center stage in Beijing, the air miraculously cleared, in part due to a stiff wind and probably some government restrictions to clean up for the big events and world press in town to cover it.  As we walked through Tianenmen Square on Monday, we saw a very heightened increase in police presence and even had to submit to several security searches of my bag.  Again, probably due to the meetings this week but also the nation is now on high alert due to the recent terrorist attack on a train station in the south.  Still, Thom and I both agree that we feel far safer walking the streets of China at night in any neighborhood, no matter how remote or dark, than we would in the U.S. 

When I woke up to blue skies, it was such a delight that we had to go out on my lunch hour and walk the streets.  Thom had already got in a lot of exploring so we headed out to a small alley he had discovered where he dared me to eat live scorpions and bugs on a stick.  Yes, they were still waving their little parts and pieces as if to say “Get me the F*&$ off this stick” but the food vendor offered to fry them up for us because crispy scorpions are soooo much tastier than live ones.  The various bugs on a stick and intestines on skewers were tempting but I opted to remain hungry and live to eat another day. 

Thom had one scary moment this week as he walked around the hutongs of Beijing and happened upon a group of protestors waving a petition.  As a security detail came to investigate the group, they decided to run after Thom as well, thinking he was part of the press perhaps.  Luckily, I have taught him to just ignore anyone without a gun, so he increased his pace, headphones on and ignored it all until they caught up with him and then he just did the “laowai shrug” and walked away with a smile.  The big ass camera he walks around with takes lovely photos but does make him a target at times.  He’s a tough New Yorker so I have to believe he can take care of himself (and it’s not like he would pay attention to my plea for him not to take chances) but if you ever see him on a “have you seen this guy” posting on a China website, don’t be surprised!   In the meantime, he will keep trying to make soldiers smile and scorpions squirm with delight as he records it all with his sensational snapshots of our adventures in Beijing.

Fox Not Donkey??…Strange Meat, Shanghai Style

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Shanghai Daily posted this week that fox meat was substituted for donkey meat at Wal-Mart and the customer was so upset that they demanded compensation.  That is SO messed up on so many levels that I don’t even know where to begin but let’s start with the fact that Wal-Mart sells donkey meat.  WTF!  The article stated that fox meat costs less than donkey meat though, which was a real problem for the customer because he was being cheated and, oh, it didn’t taste as good-you think?  How about the real problem is that both donkey and fox meat are sold here to the masses at Wal-Mart, which is revolting and gag-worthy and really something I wish I didn’t know.  Damn, I hate that I read and am too informed at times.   But, there it is, and who am I to judge but now I have yet another reason not to ever meat in China or shop at Wal-Mart, not that I ever did.  And you would think it couldn’t get worse than the donkey vs. fox meat debate, when it does because, after all, THIS IS CRAZY & WONDERFUL CHINA!  BTW, here is the link to the story for more details if your stomach can stand it:  http://www.shanghaidaily.com/national/Fox-flesh-found-in-donkey-meat-package-at-WalMart-store/shdaily.shtml

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HEARTS & HOOVES ANYONE?

The ordinary vendors selling meat in their tiny Street shops seems normal to me as I pass it every day on my way to the subway.  But yesterday, I saw vendors selling hot barbequed hearts and cloven hooves in the alleys of the ancient town of Zhujiajiao. YUM!  Doesn’t everything taste good with barbeque sauce?

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DECK THE HALL WITH MEATS & ORGANS, FA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA!

Then, I saw something strung up between the trees by the charming (albeit polluted) canal in the”Venice of China” water town we were visiting.   Thinking, oh how festive, they have strung Christmas lights, I found upon closer inspection that it was instead a chain of mystery meat sausages and other raw meat festively dangling and attracting flies. DOUBLE YUM AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Movies & Fruit & Pastries, Oh My, Movie Night in Shanghai!

moviesWe don’t have to stray far from our Pudong apartment to find everything you could ever want for a cold winter night…fresh fruit being sold on the corner, bakery treats, wine and the latest DVD’s.

Tonight, we’re still recovering from being up pretty much all last night watching our daughter Hannah graduate college live in Boise, Idaho at 3 a.m. our time.  While I can’t wait to show my son, James, who is visiting over college break, all of Shanghai, tonight the family was just intent on hunkering down to rest and cocoon.

I had heard all about being able to find the latest dvd’s in China.  Being very sensitive to not buying “pirated” stuff prior to coming to China, you soon realize that this is the culture and the only way to get current movies is to buy what is available, which includes being able to buy movies like Gravity that are still in the theaters and not released yet, well except in the store on my block.  I thought the quality might not be good but they are perfect and cost about $2 per movie to buy.  Movie night marathon!

 

Then, it was off to buy movie night food.  The abundance of fruit in Shanghai still amazes me. There are fruit stands on every block all over town.  I have now made friends with the fruit vendor on our corner who sells out of his van.  Last night, wanting to buy an assortment of what he had to offer from blueberries to rainier cherries to oranges and more, I was unable to negotiate a fair price so I walked away empty handed and instead went to the bakery to stock up on treats like red bean buns, coconut milk bread and iced airy cakes.  Stepping out with my bag loaded with carbs, the fruit vendor and I began our negotiations anew and I ended up with a huge bag filled for 50RMB.  I still probably paid A LOT more than the locals do but it seemed fair to me.  That is until I saw him tonight and he immediately smiled and handed me two free bananas.  Okay, now I know for sure he feels guilty for charging me too much but who doesn’t love free bananas! fruit

 

Now, it’s back to cozy up on the couch and watch some shows while munching on fruit and pastries with a little wine to wash it all down.  Heaven!  Tomorrow we’ll be all rested up and off we will go to show James all the wonderful sights of Shanghai.  I think a trip to Tianzifang Alley might be in order as well as Fuxing Park, my favorites to wander through on a Sunday.  We’ve never been to Cool Docks so we might have to go there as well.  So much to see & do in Shanghai!

 

 

Caffeine Culture in Shanghai

I can’t believe we were ever worried about finding great coffee in Shanghai.  Not only is there a Starbucks on every corner in a pinch but also Costa Coffee, Coffee Bean, Gloria Jean’s, etc. plus some serious boutique coffee places all over town that we have been sampling recently-who knew?

Xintiandi coffee 1

Conveniently located by my office in Xintiendi, Original Coffee at 276 Ma dang Road is kicking up some major caffeine with their Victoria Anduro Expresso machine.  They have a seriously friendly staff and a loyalty card-buy 6 get 1 free.  Naturally, I have already earned a free beverage!  The open air coffee bar was packed yesterday at 3 p.m. when I showed an office mate from Australia where it was for an afternoon  pick me up.  Creamy and smooth, the Americano was just the ticket to keep me going the rest of the day.  Now, if they only opened up before 8 a.m.!  Situated between my subway line and the office, I now time my arrival each day so that they are open by the time I walk by.  Yep, I’m not addicted or anything to the bean…

Xintiandi coffee 3

 

 

 

Tucked away in a street full of bars, there is a tiny café known for it’s fresh roasted beans so we had to check out Café de Volcan at 80 Yongkang Road in the former French Concession area.

True to their publicity, the coffee was amazing.  Offered the usual ways plus as pour over and french press, it had a high caffeine content and then some.  Using a fancy machine from Seattle and giving little cookie bites with each cup, the brick walls and wood floors created a cozy feel to enjoy the brew.  It felt so much like Seattle, especially when one patron walked in with her dog–you don’t see that much here in Shanghai.

Dianna, our barista, told me that Shanghai citizens are learning more about the coffee culture and appreciating the good beans they roast, grind and serve.  One South African customer told us that he had enjoyed coffee around the world as he travelled and really appreciated this place.  Me too!

coffee 1

I think we’ve found our new coffee “home away from home” places to absorb the caffeine culture in Shanghai.

Carcasses galore!

>WP_20131031_011 After checking out WalMart and Carrefour this week to get our pantry stocked for our new apartment, I found myself pulling out my phone to capture the display of the most horrendous assortment of mystery meat, heaped and hung for purchase.  OMG-really!  Do people really eat this?  My stomach is churning and burning just thinking about the wall of carcasses that confronted me as I shopped for something to eat that wasn’t staring at me with beady eyes or cloven hooves.

I discovered that both locations, especially WalMart, are for locals and not Lai Wai’s like myself.  No international food, aka Special K, peanut butter, etc. was carried and no dual signing in English/Chinese.  I guessed on some cleaning products based on the pictures and just gave up for the most part finding familiar foods.

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Now you would think that fruit is fruit but there are some crazy varieties in China that I have to investigate.  I also learned that you have to get the produce weighed and tagged in the department or risk the wrath of the cashier upon discovering an unpriced item.  Just as in other situations where you have to line up in China, you learn quickly to shove and push to get a place in line and then hold firm or be shoved to the back quickly by everyone else.  Back in Seattle this week, I was definitely less polite than before due to this indoctrination with crowd behavior.  Oh well!
 

WP_20131031_009But back to the mystery meat topic at hand, there was also a wide variety of seafood swimming in tanks and ready to be killed for dinner.  I’m more comfortable not seeing my dinner alive so this is just not going to work for me.  I just don’t connect with a fish wagging its tail in a tank–those are pets not dinner.  For now, I have no idea what I will be finding to eat but I can guarantee you it won’t be from the wall of carcasses at WalMart!