ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS IS SOME CLEAN AIR!

HEADLINE FROM TODAY’S SHANGHAI DAILY

Pollution for city’s Christmas                    By Ke Jiayun |                                        December 25, 2013, Wednesday

Blanketed in smog, the city saw a sunny but cold Christmas Eve with morning temperatures dropping to zero or below in some districts and later increasing to single figures, forecasters said.

The air was moderately polluted in the evening along with a rising concentration of particles. The density of main pollutant PM2.5 reached 182.air6 micrograms per cubic meter, or more than double the nation’s limit of 75.

COUGH, COUGH, BURNING EYES & THROAT…ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS IS SOME CLEAN AIR!!!

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At least I’ll look cute while I inhale the 182.6 micrograms per cubic meter of crap that is in the air today.  Instead of a White Christmas, it was more like a Grey Christmas with the sun obscured by the particulate matter as we drove out to the lovely water town on the outskirts of Shanghai.

Thanks goodness Santa brought me my new air mask!  It’s not exactly the latest technology but it is fashion forward and “pops” with a bright geometric pattern.  I might as well try to look decent on the outside because the inside of my lungs can’t be looking pretty after a day like today.

This Christmas, instead of hanging by a warm and cozy fire, we’re lucky enough to have a jumbo Blue Air Cleaner to cuddle up to and Elvis Presley’s classic song, “Blue Christmas”, just took on a whole new meaning for me.  Some day, God willing, we will once again be blessed to experience a White Christmas with Blue Skies.  I just don’t expect it will be in China.

Christmas Eve at the Mall, Shanghai Style

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Crazy ass Santa’s running amok in the Mall–Christmas Eve, Shanghai Style! They need to eat some serious carbs to keep those pants up–skinny does not play well with Mrs. Claus, though she was nowhere in sight at Grand Gateway Mall this afternoon when we were doing a little last minute shopping.  The crew of Santa’s were having a good time but were told to “spread out” by their handler when they started to overwhelm the wee ones.

In addition, there were a slew of other crazy holiday characters causing multiple kids to cry in fear and run screaming into the nearest store to take cover. One dancing tree is cool but a whole forest can be intimidating even to adults. WP_20131224_012

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And don’t get me started on the girls wearing cakes for skirts–they epitomized the megabling of a Chinese Christmas. One guy said to Thom, “Christmas is for foreigners, not Chinese” but everyone I saw seemed to be enjoying the shopping and the restaurant buffets all over Town. The decorations were over the top at the Mall–the more megawatts, the better! WP_20131224_006

Movies & Fruit & Pastries, Oh My, Movie Night in Shanghai!

moviesWe don’t have to stray far from our Pudong apartment to find everything you could ever want for a cold winter night…fresh fruit being sold on the corner, bakery treats, wine and the latest DVD’s.

Tonight, we’re still recovering from being up pretty much all last night watching our daughter Hannah graduate college live in Boise, Idaho at 3 a.m. our time.  While I can’t wait to show my son, James, who is visiting over college break, all of Shanghai, tonight the family was just intent on hunkering down to rest and cocoon.

I had heard all about being able to find the latest dvd’s in China.  Being very sensitive to not buying “pirated” stuff prior to coming to China, you soon realize that this is the culture and the only way to get current movies is to buy what is available, which includes being able to buy movies like Gravity that are still in the theaters and not released yet, well except in the store on my block.  I thought the quality might not be good but they are perfect and cost about $2 per movie to buy.  Movie night marathon!

 

Then, it was off to buy movie night food.  The abundance of fruit in Shanghai still amazes me. There are fruit stands on every block all over town.  I have now made friends with the fruit vendor on our corner who sells out of his van.  Last night, wanting to buy an assortment of what he had to offer from blueberries to rainier cherries to oranges and more, I was unable to negotiate a fair price so I walked away empty handed and instead went to the bakery to stock up on treats like red bean buns, coconut milk bread and iced airy cakes.  Stepping out with my bag loaded with carbs, the fruit vendor and I began our negotiations anew and I ended up with a huge bag filled for 50RMB.  I still probably paid A LOT more than the locals do but it seemed fair to me.  That is until I saw him tonight and he immediately smiled and handed me two free bananas.  Okay, now I know for sure he feels guilty for charging me too much but who doesn’t love free bananas! fruit

 

Now, it’s back to cozy up on the couch and watch some shows while munching on fruit and pastries with a little wine to wash it all down.  Heaven!  Tomorrow we’ll be all rested up and off we will go to show James all the wonderful sights of Shanghai.  I think a trip to Tianzifang Alley might be in order as well as Fuxing Park, my favorites to wander through on a Sunday.  We’ve never been to Cool Docks so we might have to go there as well.  So much to see & do in Shanghai!

 

 

Keeping Warm, Shanghai Style

The weather is finally getting colder and the Shanghai fashionistas are breaking out their winter wear. The coats are beautiful and brighten up these gray days. With everyone commuting long distances to work in Shanghai, you have to wear layers and dress for any type of weather. Today I actually saw some real fur being worn–not sure what type of fur since pretty much all animals are fair game here in China but I was envious just because it looked so warm though I swear I saw a little head peeking out of one of the folds on this particular foxy cape.  A coat to keep you warm AND a pet to keep you company–what a creepy combo!

 

 

 

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The shoe story doesn’t really change too much when the weather changes. I still see the stilettos being worn on the street and wonder how on earth these women navigate the uneven streets and dodge the traffic wearing them. You have to be seriously nimble to survive just crossing the street here so I’ll stick to my “commuter” boots that keep me alive and put on the “work” heels after I safely reach the office.  You don’t see the ladies here wearing sneakers with their work outfits like you would on the streets of Manhattan..fashion definitely comes first here over function.

 

I look forward to getting a fashionable Shanghai coat myself soon like the looks I saw out and about this past weekend. Now, if I could just find functional but fashionable air masks to compliment my outfits like this rocking chick–crazy cute coat PLUS matching mask.  Keeping warm, Shanghai Style!Coat-9499

Caffeine Culture in Shanghai

I can’t believe we were ever worried about finding great coffee in Shanghai.  Not only is there a Starbucks on every corner in a pinch but also Costa Coffee, Coffee Bean, Gloria Jean’s, etc. plus some serious boutique coffee places all over town that we have been sampling recently-who knew?

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Conveniently located by my office in Xintiendi, Original Coffee at 276 Ma dang Road is kicking up some major caffeine with their Victoria Anduro Expresso machine.  They have a seriously friendly staff and a loyalty card-buy 6 get 1 free.  Naturally, I have already earned a free beverage!  The open air coffee bar was packed yesterday at 3 p.m. when I showed an office mate from Australia where it was for an afternoon  pick me up.  Creamy and smooth, the Americano was just the ticket to keep me going the rest of the day.  Now, if they only opened up before 8 a.m.!  Situated between my subway line and the office, I now time my arrival each day so that they are open by the time I walk by.  Yep, I’m not addicted or anything to the bean…

Xintiandi coffee 3

 

 

 

Tucked away in a street full of bars, there is a tiny café known for it’s fresh roasted beans so we had to check out Café de Volcan at 80 Yongkang Road in the former French Concession area.

True to their publicity, the coffee was amazing.  Offered the usual ways plus as pour over and french press, it had a high caffeine content and then some.  Using a fancy machine from Seattle and giving little cookie bites with each cup, the brick walls and wood floors created a cozy feel to enjoy the brew.  It felt so much like Seattle, especially when one patron walked in with her dog–you don’t see that much here in Shanghai.

Dianna, our barista, told me that Shanghai citizens are learning more about the coffee culture and appreciating the good beans they roast, grind and serve.  One South African customer told us that he had enjoyed coffee around the world as he travelled and really appreciated this place.  Me too!

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I think we’ve found our new coffee “home away from home” places to absorb the caffeine culture in Shanghai.

Tears are flowing but the sun is shining again in Shanghai!

Monday I had a very ugly, miserable day. The rain was pounding and the wind was blowing, making the commute almost unbearable. It’s hard to get a taxi on a nice day but on a rainy day, forget about it and it’s off to the subway I trudge. After walking 20 minutes in the downpour and dodging vehicles that want to run me down, and then three separate trains, I got to work soaked and sweating. One taxi was so aggressive that I finally had to turn my umbrella into a weapon and beat the hood of the taxi as it beared down on me. Pretty way to start the day!

I knew when I moved here that I would have to miss stuff back home but, truthfully I have been in denial. However, it all seemed to come together at once and hit me over the head with a brick on Monday-my Mom is sick and my sister is bearing the burden to take care of her so I’m a bad daughter; my daughter will be graduating from college this week and I’m so proud of her but we will not be able to attend the ceremony and then, the true kicker hit me that this will be the first Christmas EVER spent apart from this college graduated daughter, who is happily married and expecting a baby in May and so unable to travel to China like my son. So, not only am I feeling like a bad daughter but also a bad mother at the same time. Double whammy and bring on the tears.

Thank God it was dark as I made the final walk home from the subway, tears streaming down my face that I just could not stop after a thirteen hour day of work/commute and all that running through my subconscious. Expats have probably all experienced this type of day but, for me, it was my first one. I’m sure there will be others but today the sun finally came out, I miraculously got a taxi, making the morning commute easy, and then treated myself to banana bread and an Americano from Wagas. WOW! Melinda-9429

We pick up our son from the airport this evening for his college winter break and his first trip to China. I just got Skype Premium so I could have unlimited calling to the U.S. to stay in touch with my family and we will live stream and toast my daughter as she walks across that stage at 1 a.m. Saturday (Shanghai time) and gets her college diploma. Yes, tears will be shed (as they are as I am writing this) but we will also be so very proud of her as she struts the stage in her bedezzled cap, carrying our first grandchild inside her. We find out on Christmas Day whether the baby is a boy or girl-stay tuned! What a lovely Christmas present that will be and, yes, tears of joy will once again flow but on this sunny day in Shanghai, I am smiling again. 🙂

Squat or Hedge-The Choice is Yours

Okay, when the government has to post cartoons in the stalls of the bathrooms to try and teach it’s citizens how to use the facilities, you know you are in China.  Of course, the cartoons are in English so you have to wonder….is it targeted at just me because I am pretty sure I’m the only one who only speaks/reads only English in our building?  I would say that everyone could use a refresher course on this topic but don’t I feel special that it is directed just at me.  Guess I’ll have to be more careful in the future or the bathroom police will swoop down upon me.

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I have to be honest with you, though, after seeing countless people just use the street as their personal bathroom, no amount of cute cartoons posted in bathrooms are going to make a difference.  Walking back from the park Sunday, two women were holding a toddler over the hedge to take care of business.  Not lying and yes, it freaks you out.  You know you should just avert your eyes and move on quickly because otherwise you will see some serious shit (literally) that you just don’t want to see but you stare because you just can’t believe it’s happening.

 

The press is even weighing in on this topic.  In the Shanghai Daily this week, one of the lead stories was on pit toliets or squats as they are called by locals.  Squats are still used in many urban bathrooms as well as rural areas so if you live or visit here, you will learn to squat.

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REMEMBER–hand sanitizer and toliet paper–carry them with you religiously wherever you go or you will be so, so sorry.  Working on those thigh muscles couldn’t hurt as well–practice that yoga warrior position perhaps?  You will need those muscles to use those squat (hole in the floor) bathrooms, believe me.  TMI, I know, but just trying to do my public service to get those “spoiled by toliets” Westerners ready for their China experience.  You never know when you may have to decide between using the squat bathroom or just taking advantage of a handy hedge.   Either is acceptable here.

 

 

 

Shanghai Daily Article for your reading pleasure:

 

Toilet campaign cleans up rural living conditions

Source: Xinhua | December 13, 2013, Friday |

Pang Zhankui and his family never expected a flush toilet at home, enabling them to get rid of the latrine pit haunted by flies and mosquitoes.

“No more dirty pits and no more stinky smells. All we have to do now is push the flush button,” said Pang, a 65-year-old farmer in Cangfang
Village, Gaoyi County in north China’s Hebei Province.

Pang’s family is among the 120,000 households who had their pit toilets replaced by flush toilets this year as part of a provincial campaign to improve the living environment in rural areas.

China has a rural population of 650 million. Farmers have benefited from the country’s opening up, reform, and preferential policies in past decades. However, it lags behind in living environment.

Farmers suffer from dirty pit toilets, garbage and waste water near their houses because of poor infrastructure and loose management.

“We used to throw kitchen leftovers and other garbage into the pigsty in the yard, but in recent years, when we quit raising pigs, we had nowhere to discard the garbage,” said Feng Yuezeng, a Nanlangtou Village farmer in Luancheng County, Shijiazhuang City.

In a rural environment improvement campaign, the Hebei provincial government spent 6.57 billion yuan (US$1.08 billion) this year on garbage disposal in 50,000 villages in the province. More than 120,000 workers have been hired at an annual cost of 270 million yuan to collect the trash in villages and deliver it to garbage power plants.

Zhang Baoqiang, director with the leadership office on countryside appearance innovation in Hebei, said more government efforts are necessary to address rural environmental issues.

He said the government plans to convert all pit toilets to flush toilets in the province within three years. “We only have seven years to reach the goal,” Zhang said.

 

From <http://www.shanghaidaily.com/national/Toilet-campaign-cleans-up-rural-living-conditions/shdaily.shtml

Shanghai Sunday-Wandering the former French Concession

On a Sunday walkabout with Thom, we once again found ourselves the only Westerners on a very local street. As we wandered around the former French Concession, we observed how the average Shanghai citizen enjoys their Sundays-usually their only day off during the week. street hair cut

street sewing

The sidewalks are where the people live and get their chores done, whether it is a hair cut or having their pants hemmed. Using a sewing machine that I would consider an antique, it gets the job done for customers needing repairs to their clothes.  Carefully trimming one woman’s hair, the sidewalk barber may lack a fancy salon but her customer obviously didn’t care.

Most dining is done curbside, usually eating noodles from the vendors who cook on hot plates and open fires and served on folding tables. Of course, there is always some interesting “street meat” hanging for those courageous enough to try it. Not me, of course!  String of meat anyone-your guess what it is???street meat

And no need to book a truck to move your very heavy furniture when you have pedal power. It’s amazing what you can fit onto a bicycle and a cart!  Moving day-cycle style!WP_20131215_033

It will be interesting to see how life changes on the streets as the weather gets colder.

Will the bicycles keep on carrying their heavy loads and moving cargo where it needs to go?  Will the sidewalk barber and seamstress continue to take care of customers as usual in icy conditions?  The Chinese are a hardy bunch so I’m imaging that nothing stops them from going about business as usual.

One street we walked had very specific rules posted on every bar, primarily it looked like for the ex pats who like to drink and get rowdy apparently.

street rules

We had heard about this area’s reputation.  This street is lined with expat-friendly bars but upstairs the locals live and it was reported that they have come up with creative ways to stop the late night partying–they simply dump their bathwater on the patrons sitting outside to get them to shut up late at night after they have had too many brews.  I can only imagine what that scene must have looked like before the bars put up the current awnings to keep their customers dry.  We’ll have to come back at 10 p.m. one night to see if they really do close that early.  I can’t imagine anyone complies with these rules.  That would be very un-Chinese and contrary to doing business but one never knows.  If I got someone’s bathwater dumped on me, I might be compelled to comply with just about any rule.

 

 

Fa…la…la…la…la…ho…ho…ho..Santa, Shanghai Style

Santa customsSanta has left the North Pole and landed in Shanghai—who knew???   Going through Customs as a “Foreigner”, Santa was decked out in full-on “ready for the sleigh” uniform, pausing only briefly to gather his personal belongings with us mere mortals at baggage carousel #26 before heading out to take care of the holiday needs of all the good little boys & girls in China.  Hope he ate his Wheaties cause there are LOTS of folks needing some holiday magic here!

Santa Baggage

Embracing the holiday spirit despite warm weather and crushing pollution, many retail establishments have hung their Christmas stockings with care.  Decorated trees and Santa images abound in almost every venue.  Bing Crosby croons on the Muzak. We decided on an artificial tree because we are unsure of the true “freshness” of the $200 US trees that are sold here, primarily for the expat demographic.  We envisioned a pile of pine needles greeting us upon our return home one day so are playing it safe with fake.  The China versions of Christmas trees come in many different colors-gold and red are popular “lucky” colors here….buying a boring green one just doesn’t seem local.

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At Boxing Cat Brewery, they are even embracing one of the more crazy traditions from the U.S. by having an Ugly Sweater Christmas Party with Santa & his elves hosting with “free flow” drinks—I’m guessing Santa will probably be very merry at this party on Christmas Eve so the sleigh may be weaving a little on the way back to the North Pole. Ho, Ho, Ho!  Rudolph with your nose so bright, let’s try to fly through that funny hole in the Financial Center tonight!

Ugly Swtr Party

At only 250 RMB per adult, the Ugly Sweater Party is one of the cheaper ways to celebrate Christmas Eve here in Shanghai.   Shanghai likes to eat and the holidays provide a great opportunity to put on lavish spreads.  I’ve never seen so many Christmas dinner offers by all the restaurants in town—running anywhere from 300-1200RMB and more for a multi-course meal.   Not sure what we’ll be doing on Christmas this year but it’s guaranteed to be an adventure and a new experience..Santa, Shanghai Style!

 

 

 

Subway Superwoman in Shanghai

subway chaos Feeling like Superwoman today!  I got to work via Shanghai Subway all by myself. Well, not technically all by myself because I was joined by several million of my fellow citizens doing their commute as well. At first, going down into the subway on the empty staircase, I was thinking I had beat the rush and this would be a piece of cake. Lulled into a false sense of security, I was then assaulted by just a few of the 25 million people who also happen to live in Shanghai. Boldly ignoring the officials signaling me to put my purse/backpack through the security scanner (no one pays them any attention so neither do I), I then proceeded to follow the masses into the bowels of humanity.

Lining up to get on the train as it arrives,  you pray that someone, really anyone, is getting off at your stop so that there is room for you to get on. This worked 2 out of 3 times but one time there was not a fraction of room so I waited for the next train, where I could find a pocket of space to shove my body into. Riding the Shanghai subway is a full-on contact sport—using your upper body to block and elbows to jab, you must use brute strength to gain a space on the train.  Having worked in NYC Times Square, I have some experience with these types of crowds so I wasn’t too intimidated but still….

Several locals smiled when they saw the crazy female Laowai on their train so at least I brought some levity to their morning chaotic commute.  I’m glad I can do my own thing even though it defies the norms for ex pat behavior. Surprisingly with this heavy traffic use, the subway is very clean and alsubway mapl signs and announcements are in English as well as Chinese so it is not hard to use.  It is super cheap at 50 cents US$ for my trip vs. $3 US for a taxi. To get to my office from home, I have to take three different trains which means lots of stairs as you have to go up and down to transfer. At least I don’t have to go to the gym tonight or at least that’s what I’m telling myself.

No one but me took the stairs, everyone else preferring to crowd onto the escalators. All told, it takes about 45 minutes for the commute. I may not take the subway all the time but it is very empowering to know how to use it and be able to get around town by myself.  After conquering the subway, who knows what I will tackle next!