SHANGHAI FAREWELL TOUR–I will miss it all

As my days are numbered here in Shanghai, I thought it would be brilliant to do a “What I will miss and not miss list” to remember our adventures here. On my final day before going to the U.S. for a business trip, I ran by my hairdresser Michael first for a touch up to look as good as I can for the new job. First impressions and all. He was sad to lose his steady client and I was sad that I wasn’t going to be around to see his new salon open up eventually, a project he has been working on for as long as I have known him. It’s China, of course, so it is taking forever. Afterward I walked a few miles to a final dinner with our friends, Patti and Larry, who are staying for a week after I have to leave. It has been a joy to share China with them.

My town-I will miss it especially on a clear day.

Of course I couldn’t find a taxi at rush hour but enjoyed the long walk to Lost Heaven on The Bund through the former French Concession all by my lonesome. It was dark yet I felt safe and the locals were enjoying their walks home too and starting to source dinner from the many street vendors. The tiny shops were all still open trying to lure commuters in to buy their goods.

I soaked it all in knowing this would be my last long walk alone in China. Then it dawned on me. I WILL MISS IT ALL–the good, the bad and the crazy that is China. Just as there is no place like NYC, there is no place like China and I have been lucky enough to live in both wonderful places.

I’ll miss the smile from the taxi driver as I try to practice my Mandarin and agree that the scooter he almost hit deserved it by getting in his way. We laughed so hard in the taxi coming home from dinner when, we heard the taxi driver’s friend which he was talking with on his mobile as he drove the busy streets hawk a loogie with a force so huge that it came through the speaker loud and clear. ARRRRRGH but that’s China and if you breathed in all that pollution every day, you would hawk up a lung too.

I’ll miss playing the “What’s the AQI?” game daily with Thom as we wake up and check out the “fog” in the early morning light. If you can see the bridge in the distance, it’s a good day. Can’t see across the river? It’s a 250+ AQI day so wear that air mask! Pollution bad? Good day to buy more $2 DVD’s and have movie day/night/week and order in food delivered by Sherpa’s.

The TV’s not working again in the bedroom for the fifth straight day? Yep-time to read a book. Instagram blocked now? Astril VPN being targeted and slowed down by the you know who? Yep-time to read a book. Be courageous and drink a cold beverage with ice made from local tap water and end up being crazy sick. Yep-time to spend some quality bathroom time reading a good book. Needless to say, my Amazon Kindle bill has gone up in China and many books have been read.

Now, just as we had to move on from our NYC adventure, now it is our time to leave China. As we repatriate to Seattle, I will challenge myself to keep on writing and observing life with the new lens I have acquired from my China cultural immersion. Yes, I will appreciate the blue skies more but I will also seek out the new and different cultural experiences that are everywhere not just China to keep the adventure alive. We are only on this planet a limited number of days.   Why waste one moment being boring when you can make every day special and new?

Everyone likes a good list–especially me, so here’s mine so I won’t forget the fun times in Shanghai:

WHAT I WILL MISS

*a sense of security that I feel in China–no one is going to hurt me, steal from me, rape me, etc.  It could happen but rarely ever does here vs. on the streets of Seattle downtown, you never feel safe.  There are drugs deals going down (never in China) and people beating each other in broad daylight.  I will carry a whistle, mace and running shoes to get away fast when I move to Seattle.

*rat motif items–I am born in the Year of the Rat and have started my own little rodent collection of tasteful and colorful rats to celebrate the year of my birth.  Who knew the vermin could be so cute?

*Vietnam–a country full of super nice, smiling people and interesting places.  I must go back.

Crooked, sloping, uneven, and totally awesome-steps at the Great Wall
Crooked, sloping, uneven, and totally awesome-steps at the Great Wall

*foot massage, foot massage, foot massage–how could I have gone my whole life prior to China without this necessity to keep my body whole and healthy and, yes, 90 minutes is not enough…not nearly…

*going to the local shoe repair guy who works on the street by my house 7 days a week – $2 to stitch up my bag that ripped and no waiting.  Smile he gives me because he appreciates me supporting a local craftsman=priceless.

*beautiful flowers and colored lights to prettify the highways that are choked with traffic.

*the Great Wall-got to go 4x and loved every trip especially the toboggan to go down

*warm egg tarts from KFC–yum,yum,yum!

*various colors light up Pearl Tower depending on the holiday aka Empire State Building but with more gov’t. control

*$2 DVD’s-you get used to seeing movies in the comfort of your own home while they are in the theaters and the subtitles go unnoticed after awhile

*unexpected bursts of loud bangs as businesses attract the gods of good fortune with firecrackers

*Our ayi, Pink, smiling and wearing my NYC taxi apron while taking care of us and our gorgeous apartment

*large rooms and square footage–Seattle teeny tiny spaces with no closet space not so much

*Strictly Cookies, English muffins, Taiwan crackers-carbs galore

*surprises around every corner at every moment

*bargaining like a mule at the fake markets and getting bargains

*collecting pillow covers of every type and color–it has become an obsession

*my plants-they made our apartment beautiful and they lived despite me and my plant guy who would deliver even the heaviest banana tree right to the exact spot I wanted it..glad that Fiona’s friend took them all

*sense of delight when I found food I could eat that wouldn’t make me sick-thanks Fresh Elements

*our support team-Fiona who tried hard to teach us Chinese and bought stuff for us on Taobao, watched Thor, and did everything we needed to make life possible here; Robert and Billy who ensured we had car service fast and reliable; smiling fruit lady on the corner adding extra fruit in our bag because we always overpaid

*neon lights, flashing lights on every thing for any reason

*watching the ferries dodge the coal boats-reflexes extraordinaire

I will miss the Pearl Tower on a rare blue sky Shanghai day.
I will miss the Pearl Tower on a rare blue sky Shanghai day.

WHAT I WON’T MISS…all that much but maybe a little

*killer elevator in our building with doors that would either maim or kill you–I got some serious bruises from being stupid and not realizing that the doors would close on my flesh vs. the U.S. version that had safety features

*spotty at best internet, TV that doesn’t work most of the time though it’s good to live without it

*those damn bumps on the sidewalks making it difficult to walk–for the blind?  Really?

*avoiding sitting directly behind the taxi driver so I won’t get hit with backwash from him hocking his lungs out the window and bracing for impact because there are never seat belts that work

*worrying that I’ll get sick or crack a tooth and have to submit myself to the China medical system, which is scary even at the best ex-pat places.  Got great insurance but don’t want to use it.

*gov’t. Control of all media including blocking Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, etc. to keep the peace.  It’s just scary not really knowing what the hell is going on in your city.

*public pissing.  nuf said

*toxic water, no food safety, chunky air that makes me cough, cough, cough…lungs can heal, right?

*cars, buses, bikes, scooters all trying to kill me daily…thus, the mottos below

SHANGHAI MOTTOS

*I’d really like to not die today–repeat daily

*you can die fast or you can die slow–a Fionaism

*it’s China (as answers to almost everything, i.e.  why is this happening??)

*be nimble or die–use when dodging traffic

Good Bye Hong Kong!
Will miss Hong Kong!

Shanghai Farewell Tour-The “Mule” Hits The Market

“Take Thom as collateral”.  Please.  I offered my hubster earnestly to the scarf lady who wanted 100 RMB to ensure we would stay and wait for her to retrieve our requested 200+ scarves I wanted to buy.  As Fiona interpreted, she shook her head fiercely in protest, indicating that the crazy Laowai was not a good trade–we settled on 20 RMB which tells you what Thom is really worth.  Just saying, sweetie–Chinese perspective.  Nothing personal.

With rolling suitcase and multiple Ikea blue bags in tow, we journeyed to the South Bund Fabric Market to bargain the day away.  Now, I’ve been known to be called the “Mule” at the markets and today was no exception.  No comment, those of you who know me.  Note–I have also been called a “bulldog” at work but that’s another story.  Funny, I never get compared to the quiet, beautiful animals like a swan or cuddly ones like the panda.  Hmmm…

I started with Thom’s favorite Tibetan lady (gal in the red in the pic) with her jewelry spread out on several blankets outside the market–you get a better price if the vendor isn’t paying for stall rent.  Having previously bought a few pieces, I knew the price and pieces I was looking for–no  more than 25 RMB ($4 US) and lower is better.  Unfortunately the Tibetan lady didn’t stock quantity in any items so on to the next blanket.  The word spread fast that I was a “buyer” and the vendors put two and two together with Thom watching over our large suitcase…. this Laowai had some RMB to lay down!  Let the stampede begin.

Let the negotiating (and screaming) begin!
Let the negotiating (and screaming) begin!

They started rushing me with similar necklaces to the one I had picked up to check out.  I finally found one gal who had some multiple units of what I was looking to buy for our accessory business that Thom/James will run in the US online plus I was buying for my friend Patti to start her own business back in the wilds of Indiana.  God Bless Fiona who just laid into it with her as the bargaining began and quickly became heated.  As the Mule with the RMB, I kept shaking my head and using my best Mandarin bargaining phrases that always come in handy.  A couple watching it all go down (guy in blue shirt) wanted Fiona to help them too but she waved them off–she is our bulldog negotiator.  I did share with the nice folks what they should be paying so they didn’t get ripped off.  I’m nice like that–sharing the “Mule” tips to the world.

We got what we wanted and a few stink eye glares from the vendor (white/black check shirt gal) who still took my RMB.  I was disappointed not to get all I wanted but I'[l go back to the AP market, where I have found it’s easier to find 10/20 units of the same necklace, which fits our online store concept model better.  Thom’s so excited-more shopping and carrying bags.  Oh Joy!

Then, it was off to the back local street to gather up 200+ scarves for 8 RMB ($1.33) each for really nice prints on large cotton-like scarves.  At first overwhelmed at picking out 25 or so patterns, I quickly starting using my print radar to pick out the best on the cart.  Fiona told me later that the local women were watching my selection process and, drawing a crowd, immediately started buying whatever I was choosing–the crazy Laowai lady must know her stuff, right???  Thom swears his very presence attracted the ladies but we all know better.

Scarf explosion
Scarf explosion

After refusing Thom as collateral, off the vendor went to her home to get the stock we needed–back in 30 minutes she promised.  A hour and a half later, she finally showed up with LOTS of scarves in tow.  While we waited for her, the vendor’s mom told us we needed to straighten the scarf display as we had messed it up with our selection frenzy.  Sure, no problem, I got this.  I have many, many years of retail experience.  After just a few folds, the lady told Fiona to tell me to STOP!  It seems that I may need some scarf display lessons as she suggested to Fiona that NO ONE WOULD BUY the scarves I was rolling up to stack on the table.  Okay, message received.  After I had paid for my many scarves, though, everyone was all smiles.  Good day at the market for all!

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Be The Duck

THE BIG DUCK HAS ARRIVED!  Back in Shanghai after furiously working for two weeks at the new job in the U.S., Thom and I didn’t waste time getting out and about on a beautiful sunny blue sky day on Saturday.  Destination–the big Duck.  Yes, the famous Duck had arrived to sit on the pond in Century Park and be admired by millions of selfie happy locals.  Twenty deep in some spots close to the big dude, we weaved our way up close to take our photos as well. If there were more ducks on display, the world would be a happier place.

My, what a big duck you are
My, what a big duck you are

The duck has special meaning to me as one of the courses I taught had a “Be The Duck” theme and I decorated with plastic yellow duckies everywhere for ambience.  I will probably be forever known as the duck lady to my classes but, as long as they remember to be calm like the duck on the outside when presenting material while paddling furiously unbeknownst to the seeing eye, I’m okay with that.  I still carry my own little duck in my briefcase to remind me daily–kind of like a “never let them see you sweat” mantra.  It works. It also makes me smile every time my bag hits my leg and quacks a little.

Be The Duck
Be The Duck

After the duck encounter, and really, who doesn’t love a duck, we headed over to the AP market to make someone’s day.  You see, we’ve decided to do a little import/export business selling accessories back home.  We’ve made some great connections here and when someone compliments you on the $4 necklace you bought and asked if you got it at Anthropologie and did it cost $88, well, you know you’ve got a business just begging to be created.  My friend Patti and I will work with Fiona, our language teacher here, to buy, ship and sell lovely scarves and necklaces.  We’ll use our profits to fund more travel adventures and possibly have James assist so he can earn money to pay for law school.  More to come as we transition to Seattle and get it up and running!

Walking miles back to the apartment, ’cause that’s what we do, we soaked up every detail and smell on the streets.  Oh how I have loved living here and, yes, it feels like home.

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Wedding Shanghai Style

Many days we have walked by a hotel and seen the beautiful (and expensive) cars decorated with flowers to celebrate a wedding.  And when I say expensive, I am talking that a Porsche is the entry level with Bentleys and Rolls Royce being preferred–the bigger the car, the better the status.  We walked by this lovely Porsche on a hot sunny day recently and admired it’s beauty until we saw the driver sawing logs reclined in the front seat and quietly snuck away so as not to disturb his beauty sleep–weddings will do that to you!

Wedding car is decked out with floral hood ornament
Wedding car is decked out with floral hood ornament

The ritual seems to be that the bride/groom lead the wedding processional in the most elaborate car with a hood floral centerpiece with the wedding party cars decorated more discreetly with flowers on the side mirrors. Not having actually been invited to attend the inner sanctum of a wedding ceremony, I can only imagine how over the top the flowers are there if their gorgeous cars are any indication.

Romeo and Juliet style for wedding photo shoot on the Bund
Romeo and Juliet style for wedding photo shoot on the Bund

As in the U.S., the ceremony might be nice, the food should be good but the pictures are everything.  On weekends especially, if you go to The Bund or the parks, you will surely see the brides and grooms getting their pictures taken in picturesque settings, posing with their wedding party.  This occurs sometimes months before or after the wedding or for their engagement party. The dresses are elaborate and gorgeous.  No expenses spared for Chinese weddings!

It seems like the river boats on the Huangpu River are rented out for weddings frequently. Typically, you will see a huge banner hanging on the side with portrait of the happy couple. Nothing like seeing yourself 12 feet tall and flapping in the breeze to celebrate the happy day.  Can’t imagine what that sets back the parents paying for those parties. Yikes!

We were at the Cool Docks recently and the center restaurant among the fountains had been decked out for a wedding in the evening. We didn’t stick around but I’m sure it was just beautiful. White cut out light cylinders indicated a night wedding with the formal chairs and runners all in white and very formal.  Party on!

On another night as we were going to Shook bar on the Bund, we ran into, literally, a wedding party just breaking up.  The flowers were everywhere and their backdrop banner provided Thom and I with an unique opportunity to “borrow” their props.  Always the newlyweds we are!

Taking advantage of wedding collateral at Shook! Bar to pose with my love
Taking advantage of wedding collateral at Shook! Bar to pose with my love

Shanghai Farewell Tour-US Citizenship for Thor

Thor is coming!  Thor is coming!  Back to the U.S. that is!  Our adorable four month old puppy, Thoraxis, has become a part of our family so when we found out we were headed home, my first thought was OH NO THOR CAN’T GO!  We hadn’t brought our beloved Viszla, Izaak, to China due to the expense and hardship it would take on his health being a big dog who would have to ride in cargo.

Izaak the Regal and Gorgeous Dude
Izaak the Regal and Gorgeous Dude

So, Izaak stayed home with Hannah and Mike to become Ollie’s (their Great Dane) brother from a different mother and he has loved his new family.  But, soon we return to Seattle and will welcome him back into our lives to walk and cuddle with–Izaak loves to spoon.

Thor The Magnificent Rescue Puppy
Thor The Magnificent Rescue Puppy

Luckily, we worked out the details with my company and Thor can now make the trip back with us.  He has gone through so much in the three months that we have had him.  Thom and James got him while I was in the U.S. on a business trip in July when he became available as a rescue dog.  The runt of the litter with health problems, he has now gone from a sickly one pounder to a healthy four pound bundle of energy with THE sharpest baby teeth.  After getting all his vaccines, he has now graduated to outside walks which we used to enjoy so much in Seattle with Izaak.  After being afraid of steps, both up and down, Thor now takes them with no hesitation and seems to at least tolerate other dogs he meets outside.   Good news for his cohabitation future with Izaak.

Thor looks so skinny when he's wet yet didn't fit into his cute outfit
Thor looks so skinny when he’s wet yet didn’t fit into his cute outfit

While walking the local streets, Thor looks right at home and plops down on the dirty sidewalks to rest intermittently because he does have short legs after all.  After stepping in his own deposit on the street, though, Thor had to endure only his third bath of his short life, which he desperately needed.  Now I understand completely why most dogs in China wear booties–after stepping into their own DNA and that of many other folks who spit and poop on the streets, you do not want that dog jumping on your furniture and sitting on your lap. YUCK!

Thor tries on clothes but alas he's too fat now
Thor tries on clothes for his new Northwest home-plaid shirt and sweat pants

I did find him the cutest outfit to wear (over Thom’s loud objections) that had a checked shirt and sweatpants, but found out quickly that he had grown so much that it was too tight.  After laughing at him falling over because he couldn’t move in it, we stopped the puppy torture and decided to regift it to my sister’s Chihuahua, Sierra Marie, who is teeny tiny and needs some cozy fleece to keep warm on those cold Midwestern nights.  We’ll just have to keep on looking for appropriate street wear for Thor to style in Seattle.  He needs to be a hipster to fit in at Stumptown coffee–he would look cool rocking some skinny jeans, suspenders and a bow tie… just saying.

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Witnessing the Feast of Sacrifice

WARNING:  Do NOT read this post if you are a child, have a weak stomach or love sheep.  REALLY. I’M NOT JOKING.  This interlude may have scarred Patti for life and instead of remembering the cuddly Panda’s we saw at the zoo, she’ll never forget the sheep doomed to die.  That being said, it is China and as we say here, you can die fast or you can die slow.  The sheep unfortunately had to go the route of the former vs. the latter.

While strolling as a group to the local wet market as part of our cooking class, little did we know we were going to witness a ritual to celebrate Eid al-Adha, the feast of sacrifice.  NOOOOOOO…we thought we would pick up some ingredients for our lovely lunch and then merrily skip back to Helen’s apartment for our class.  Along the way we saw the cutest sheep tied to the fence so we stopped to take some photos.  It’s not often you see live animals in the streets of Shanghai, so I had to take a photo of the boy feeding the cute sheep a leaf.  Little did I know that would be his last meal on Earth.

BEFORE
BEFORE

Coming out of the market, we saw a group of people with their phones out taking pictures.  As we got closer, we saw that the cuddly sheep had been sacrificed and were strung up by their hooves and were being butchered right there on the street IN FRONT OF CHILDREN!  While Emily, the vegetarian in our cooking class, quickly ran away screaming, I felt I had to document what was the most gruesome sight I have ever seen.  If I wasn’t somewhat of a vegetarian before, I am now.  Thom quickly informed me as he shot photos, that this must be the hajj faithful offering a sacrifice by slaughtering a sheep with the meat going to the needy.

AFTER
AFTER

In the Shanghai Daily, Thom had read an article on the festival that 1.5 billion Muslim around the world celebrate.  While I respect the culture, it was shocking to see it played out in public for all to see.  But that’s why I came on this adventure-to experience new and different cultures–so it was fitting that I witnessed this while still in China.  Still, the sheep were so cute….

 

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Cooking Class v2.0

We enjoyed our cooking class this summer with James so much that we just had to do it all over again with our visitors, Patti and Larry.  What fun!  With Dodo as our guide, we walked from the subway meeting point off the 10 line and walked to the local wet market for all our ingredients.  For $50 US per person, our class of six headed to the market and then off to Helen’s apartment to learn how to cook Chinese style.

Marti and Emily, from the U.S. teaching at the International School in Shanghai, were our other class mates.  These classes always attract such interesting people and we love hearing about their adventures.  They had met in Thailand teaching and had taught in four countries.  I can only imagine what fun they have learning from their diverse students and travelling the world.  I’m not sure if that would fit our lifestyle but it is intriguing.

Black chicken vs. white chicken??
Black chicken vs. white chicken??

Back to the food, though.  We had warned Patti and Larry to wear masks because the smells are POTENT PLUS at the market.  The lower floor is all meat and seafood with claws and hooves taking center stage as well as live fish and turtles and frogs plus the option of black vs. white chicken.  So many choices, especially for Emily, the vegetarian in our group.  NOT!  There were bones and meat everywhere with no refrigeration in sight.  It’s just not done here in China.

Patti working with Dodo, our guide, to buy ingredients at the wet market
Patti working with Dodo, our guide, to buy ingredients at the wet market

On the upper floor, you can buy your fruit, veggies, eggs (no refrigeration again), noodles and spices.  We enjoyed learning that the darker eggs are less healthy than the lighter eggs because they are farm raised.  The black eggs take one month to go through the salting process that make them black.  Patti handled the money and bought our Chinese chives, garlic, sausage and eggplant.  Our menu consisted of eggs with black fungus, spring rolls, paozi buns and eggplant with sauce.

Right off the bat, I almost sliced off a finger with the huge cleaver so Helen, the cooking instructor, quickly took it away from me and let me watch until I insisted I would be more careful.  We chopped and mixed and fried our way to delicious (or so they tell me-I didn’t eat a thing due to my weak stomach) while we washed it all down with a rice wine that had some kick and tea.

Thom rocking the hat and apron at cooking class
Thom rocking the hat and apron at cooking class
Patti and Larry have much better knife skills than me
Patti and Larry have much better knife skills than me

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Designing Clothes and Shoes Oh My!

When in China, right?  I had been here a whole year and never gotten custom tailored clothes but with less than 10 days left for me here, I threw caution (and a few hundred RMB) to the wind and decided I would always regret not doing it so off to the South Bund Fabric Market we went!  HOT DAMN AND HOLD ME BACK-It’s time to design some fashion to remember my stay in China!

Patti getting measured for her new coat
Patti getting measured for her new coat
Sizing me up for a French cuff shirt
Sizing me up for a French cuff shirt

Planning ahead with my favorite shirt in tow as a sample, we hit the market after negotiating for yet more jewelry from the street vendors.  10 RMB ($1.50US) for earrings!  Thom made a new friend with the sales lady from Tibet and I got some cool Christmas presents.  The market here is three floors consisting mostly of tailors hawking Chinese dresses, suits, outerwear, dresses, etc. so it can be very overwhelming with aggressive hawkers,  “LADY, YOU NEED A SUIT???”  We had gotten some tailor recommendations from our expat group but, of course, forgot the info so we wandered around.  Before you start selecting fabrics and start to negotiate for “best and final friend price”, decide what you are willing to spend and then let the fun begin.

I originally went to just get a French cuff business shirt and a knock off of my favorite knit shirt from Kenneth Cole.  We got all the way to the third floor before I found a knit vendor and a friendly merchant named May.  She and I picked out fabrics, colors and went over the design to replicate my sample shirt with long sleeves instead of short.  For only 150 RMB, I’ll be getting two knit shirts custom tailored to my specs and designed by me in the colors and fabric I picked out.  I’m thinking these will quickly become my most flattering and favorite shirts-pics to come.

Thrilled to be designing again (back in the day I was a clothing buyer), I asked her to guide me to a vendor to create my cotton French cuff shirt next, knowing she would get guanxi (good will) from this referral.  The next tailor was not so conversant but together we managed to design a special shirt with a different pattern for the inner collar and cuffs to spice up the classic white shirt. Picking out the collar design and the cuff style, we were done and I parted with 120 RMB($20 US) for my shirt that hopefully will fit better than any I can get off the rack at Zara.

I redesigned this dress in dark grey with long sleeves, lower neckline and longer length.
I redesigned this dress in dark grey with long sleeves, lower neckline and longer length.

By then, Patti had gotten the designing fever and decided she just had to join in and started trying on coats with my new tailor friend, May.  Opting for a classic car coat style in brown with a lining to be picked out by May, who by know we trusted explicitly, I started to try on dresses.  I had been a dress buyer a long, long time ago and designed lines myself of dresses so I had a great time picking out fabrics and taking one of their sample dress as a template to lengthen, change the sleeve length, lower the neckline in a dark grey heavy knit fabric.  The fact that I could shimmy my way into their sample size dress at all was a minor miracle.  Can’t wait to see the finished dress!

Thom's getting a new leather coat for Christmas
Thom’s getting a new leather coat for Christmas

Now it was Thom’s turn to get the cool biker leather jacket he has been dreaming of with zipped gusset sleeves and soft leather that was the “good stuff”, which meant more RMB.  While I shopped for dragon cuff links to go with my new shirt, he was measured by two tailors who appreciated that he was one of the few expats able to actually fit into their samples, being the tall thin dude that he is.  Let’s face it, most expats here have drank a few too many steins of beer and are carrying 50+ extra pounds.  Not my fit and trim hubby-he loves fashion and isn’t afraid of some style in his wardrobe.  As you can see by the picture, he also isn’t afraid to make a fashion statement, rocking his Hong Kong shirt in support of the protestors.

Thom will be styling’ in Seattle with his custom made boots and custom tailored leather jacket.  We went for his initial boot fitting last week and the ombre grey side stitched boots with red trim will be done before we head home. Yes, the boot model for his first fitting is pink but the final result will be a work of art, designed from several styles to incorporate an inner zipper, side accent laces (red) with toe stitching in red as well.  We love our shoes and will also fondly remember our adventures in China as we stroll the streets of Seattle sipping our Americano’s from Stumptown.

Thom's custom boot model is pink but the final product will be ombre grey
Thom’s custom boot model is pink but the final product will be ombre grey
Thom is thrilled with the boot he designed
Thom is thrilled with the boot he designed

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Everybody Was Kung Fu Fighting

I know it’s cliché but we just had to go to one of the tourist shows they put on in Beijing. I had a recommendation from a local that The Legend of Kungfu at the Red Theatre was one to experience. So, off we went to check it out.

Thom, Patti & Larry pose in front of the Kung Fu boy at Red Theater in Beijing
Thom, Patti & Larry pose in front of the Kung Fu boy at Red Theater in Beijing

Arriving early (you never know with Beijing traffic so you leave early and hope to get there on time), we wandered the gift shops and took photos of the young boy sitting on the throne outside the entrance. Finding a place to relax on a balcony, Thom and Patti quickly took off their shoes and let the massage chairs get to work on their tired feet after walking all day. Ahhhh…..never mind who else had their feet in their recently, all hygiene was forgotten and pulsating commenced until the show began.

This is the "Thom walked my ass all over China" look on Patti's face
This is the “Thom walked my ass all over China” look on Patti’s face

We had paid about $55 US for our Row 16 middle seats and, as the primarily Western tour group population filed in, we were quickly surrounded by a full theater. With a pulsating beat on the wood blocks by multiple bald Kung Fu dudes placed around the sides of the theater, the show began with lots of strobe lights, fog and action. The loose story was about a boy being tested by hard challenges and bewitched by a beautiful fairy (why are women always the troublemakers??) before he could practice Kungfu and Zen to become a master and ascend to the sacred goal of enlightenment with the obligatory old dude with super long goatee to champion his efforts and teach him the wise ways of the world.

The best parts for me were the incredible acrobatic action between the couple twirling high above the stage by holding only fabric panels and then when he did the feats of various incredibly sharp objects being jammed onto his body. Who knows how they withstand that pressure but perhaps abs of steel??? Looked painful to me but made for good theater and probably some bruises.

The Young Man is tested by many challenges in his Kung Fu journey
The Young Man is tested by many challenges in his Kung Fu journey

At the end, you were allowed onstage with the actors to take photos if you bought some outrageously overpriced gifts in the shop. We made haste and just took some photos of the group by the stage and then walked the dark streets begging for a cab to take us home. Amazingly, Thom flagged one down who, of course, had turned off the meter and charged us double for the ride. When in Beijing and it’s dark, you do not argue. You just hand over the RMB and be happy you found a ride.

Cast members at end of show pose for pictures..if you buy something from their gift shop
Cast members at end of show pose for pictures..if you buy something from their gift shop

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Dancing in Beihai Park

Dancing is part of the fabric of Asian culture.  I love seeing the ladies dancing every night in pretty much any available space on our neighborhood sidewalks.  You go girls!  In the parks, couples glide gracefully around the pavement on weekends showing off their moves.  From Hanoi to Beijing to Shanghai to Ho Chi Minh City, we have thoroughly enjoyed watching the action but never actively participating until this weekend.  FINALLY! Amazing what our impending move back to the U.S. will do to create a sense of urgency.

I felt the draw of the music and, along with my best friend Patti, who is visiting from the US, we jumped right in and joined the couples at Beihai Park in Beijing on a beautiful sunny Saturday. Thom never got the dancing gene so he took videos while Patti and I took a turn around the pavement.  To think that once we danced as children in our garage back in Indiana when we were growing up and now have the opportunity to waltz together around a Beijing park.  HOT DAMN LIFE IS GOOD! 

Despite having a ball, we were obviously the worst ballroom dancers on the pavement.  Practice makes perfect and I’m betting these folks are out weekly if not daily to get their groove on.  We got lots of stares, grins and the universal thumbs up but when we paused, one couple immediately approached us, pantomiming that the gentleman wanted to dance with Patti or I.  OF COURSE KIND SIR!

Smelling of tobacco and light on his feet, he guided me through the classic moves and off we twirled. I couldn’t help but watch his feet constantly so as to try and follow his lead but he firmly took hold of my hand and waist to guide me as well.   As anyone who knows me can attest, I don’t follow well or at all in any situation.  So, it was a miracle that I didn’t maim him as we moved around the park to the music.   Luckily I had on my trusty lightweight TOMS so I was relatively light on my feet and couldn’t hurt him too bad with my clumsiness.  Thom, Patti and Larry cheered us on and took lots of picture and video. 

As I ended our dance and gave him back to his much more talented partner, I gave him a huge thumbs up and thanked him for sharing this experience in Beihai Park, finally fulfilling a desire to dance like the locals.  Next step, jumping in with the ladies who dance nightly on the corner by my apartment.  I hope I can keep with them and that they are as welcoming to let us take part in their lovely dancing ritual.  Video to come–WHAT FUN!