Scorpions to Soldiers–Street Scene in Beijing

On March 4, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Beijing, Food, Travel, Trips outside ShanghaiLeave a comment

What a difference a day makes! We arrived in Beijing to apocalyptic pollution-350+ AQI which means the air was “hazardous” and choking full of bad shit that was being sucked into our ever dying lungs yet the locals walked around without masks and went about their daily lives like it was no big deal. And I thought I had low standards after getting used to 150 AQI days in Shanghai. I strapped on my new 3M mask that was awkward but no doubt necessary even if I didn’t have a pollution app on my phone warning me of dire consequences if I stepped outside unprotected.

Today, as the CPPCC & NPCC meetings take center stage in Beijing, the air miraculously cleared, in part due to a stiff wind and probably some government restrictions to clean up for the big events and world press in town to cover it. As we walked through Tianenmen Square on Monday, we saw a very heightened increase in police presence and even had to submit to several security searches of my bag. Again, probably due to the meetings this week but also the nation is now on high alert due to the recent terrorist attack on a train station in the south. Still, Thom and I both agree that we feel far safer walking the streets of China at night in any neighborhood, no matter how remote or dark, than we would in the U.S.

When I woke up to blue skies, it was such a delight that we had to go out on my lunch hour and walk the streets. Thom had already got in a lot of exploring so we headed out to a small alley he had discovered where he dared me to eat live scorpions and bugs on a stick. Yes, they were still waving their little parts and pieces as if to say “Get me the F*&$ off this stick” but the food vendor offered to fry them up for us because crispy scorpions are soooo much tastier than live ones. The various bugs on a stick and intestines on skewers were tempting but I opted to remain hungry and live to eat another day.

Thom had one scary moment this week as he walked around the hutongs of Beijing and happened upon a group of protestors waving a petition. As a security detail came to investigate the group, they decided to run after Thom as well, thinking he was part of the press perhaps. Luckily, I have taught him to just ignore anyone without a gun, so he increased his pace, headphones on and ignored it all until they caught up with him and then he just did the “laowai shrug” and walked away with a smile. The big ass camera he walks around with takes lovely photos but does make him a target at times. He’s a tough New Yorker so I have to believe he can take care of himself (and it’s not like he would pay attention to my plea for him not to take chances) but if you ever see him on a “have you seen this guy” posting on a China website, don’t be surprised! In the meantime, he will keep trying to make soldiers smile and scorpions squirm with delight as he records it all with his sensational snapshots of our adventures in Beijing.

Bullet Train to Beijing

On March 2, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Beijing, Shanghai, Travel, Trips outside ShanghaiLeave a comment

WP_20140302_008 — Shanghai Train Station

Just call me a local because my new regular work commute is to Beijing via the bullet train–a four hour journey speeding through the polluted countryside. We set off today for a week long adventure to Beijing and Nanjing. Thom and I are always amused at the security “lite” detail at the train station that consists of putting your stuff through the scanner while the security gal texts her friend and shops online and being wanded haphazardly as they yawn in boredom…it is quick and painless, at least for us. They seem bored to death. My husband who always seems to pack something he shouldn’t is lucky that they are so bored and not very attentive. He doesn’t mean to pack sharp objects but, hey, you never know when you might need something in an emergency. Of course, hours before our trip today there was an “incident” at another rail station in China that was concerning. Never worry–we will be as careful as we can and, after dodging traffic in Shanghai and Vietnam, we are very nimble and can get out of the way of trouble quickly. We have also learned to be prepared and pack first aid and meds just in case.

WP_20140302_005 — Disney Shop at train station. Disney World opens in 2015 here.

After racing through security, we walked through various American stores like Disney (featuring the blingiest Mickey stuff imaginable), Jeep, Polo, etc. that line the train station. We never see anyone buying anything but the snack shops are always busy with folks buying tasty treats like dried seaweed to take home to the relatives. Then, we head over to Costa Coffee (they have a Starbucks too, of course) and sometimes we score an egg tart at KFC but today Thom got a toastie-a yummy breakfast sandwich with a meat-like substance. He’s really not that picky and never seems to get sick like I do from the food so I passed. After Thom visited the men’s room aka the “smoking lounge”, we headed over to the gate, dodging the DNA that seems to come hacking out of most passersby. COVER. YOUR. MOUTH. It’s really not that hard! I wait to go to the ladies room on the train–the station has “squat” bathrooms which I avoid if at all possible.

WP_20140302_010 — And I thought I overpacked! People here haul LOTS of stuff on the trains!

At any time/any day the station is packed with people and they do NOT travel light. I thought I overpacked but, holy Hell, the crowd here is loaded down with those ubiquitous plastic expanding bags that haul LOTS of stuff and you learn to get out of their way fast as they drag their possessions through the tight aisles or you WILL be mowed down.

Playing the “laowai” card, we go to the VIP gate and talk our way through feigning ignorance of the real process of waiting with the masses streaming through the regular gates. We board the first class car and settle in for the four hour ride to Beijing. Strap on the air masks and off we go!

Monkeys Make Me Smile

On February 11, 2014February 11, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Shopping, Travel, Trips outside Shanghai, VietnamLeave a comment

WP_20140205_024 — Wild monkeys in Ha Long Bay

Experiencing the adventure of gliding through a stone cave at low tide to access the secluded inner sanctum of the tropical forest sprouting out of an ancient rock formation in Ha Long Bay was magical. I expected to see a dinosaur at any moment because it reminded me so much of a scene from Jurassic Park. In of itself, that would be an awesome memory.

Gliding through the cave at low tide to reach the monkey kingdom

Layer in the wild monkeys of Vietnam strutting their stuff among the treetops and shoreline and you now have a once in a lifetime rare glimpse into a private world unchanged by civilization. These adorable creatures have probably been part of the animal culture here for millions of years and would make even the grumpiest person smile to see them tearing through the canopy of vegetation to joyfully play with one another. Enjoy this private glimpse into my short video of our great adventure.

Ha Long Bay

On February 6, 2014February 8, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Travel, Trips outside Shanghai, VietnamLeave a comment

WP_20140205_004 — Ha Long Bay shrouded in the morning mist

Ha Long Bay in Vietnam is just as beautiful as all the pictures you will see. That being said, it was a terrifying trip there from Hanoi. Probably 50% of the time, our van was on the wrong side of the road careening straight into the oncoming traffic of other crazed drivers. That we survived is a miracle. I would never do it again..ever.

Our cruise on the Princess Luxury Cruise Ship was so special and memorable, especially after our life or death experience getting there.

WP_20140204_048 — Ha Long Bay bathed in sunshine

These stone formations jutting out of the green water have been around for 500 million+ years and we got to see them in the sunshine and also shrouded in the morning mist-both were spectacular.

We stopped on the way here at a tourist rest stop. There, they had many ladies doing hammered egg shells in and coat with lacquer many layers and then paint beautiful pictures on top. There was also jewelry, clothing, scarfs and embroidered pictures. So many to choose from that I couldn’t make a decision. Most cost less than $50. The lady selling said all the people doing the artistic work were disabled but you tend to be skeptical when told that here. Either way, the craftsmanship was amazing and I hope the artisans were paid decently for their lovely art.

WP_20140205_035 — Gorgeous new hotel restaurant by the bay

In the “van from Hell”, we shared our adventure with a couple from England and a couple from San Fran. We exchanged stories of China for their travel adventures around Vietnam. In general, the houses we saw in the villages are much nicer than in rural China. Made of concrete and bricks, they are usually three stories high, narrow in design with patios and beautiful wood doors. The interiors I could peer into looked quite nice with tile floors, circular metal staircases and almost all with large screen tv’s. However, their infrastructure is seriously lacking in Vietnam. Roads are broken concrete messes with many bumps and sections of unpaved roads. By contrast, when we got to Ha Long Bay, it felt like Miami Beach with new condos by the water and modern sleek hotels and restaurants, fueled by the almighty tourist dollars.

WP_20140205_034 — Princess Luxury Cruise-very nice!

Our boat had just 18 cabins, filled with mainly Europeans and some Chinese folks. The meals were lavish with pork, chicken, seafood, lots of vegetables and impeccable service. During the safety announcement, Jimmy, our steward, showed us a hammer and told us that it was to be used in case of emergency only, i.e. to break out the windows to get out of the boat. In other words, you are ON YOUR OWN! He encouraged smokers to smoke outside (this is on a totally wooden boat mind you) and not to smoke inside as it would set off the smoke alarms. No shit…However, doubtful that those hard core smokers paid attention but, just to scare them, Jimmy warned the passengers that everyone would break out their hammers and it would be complete chaos if they smoked inside. To recap, if there is an emergency, grab that life vest, use the hammer and out you go into Ha Long Bay where the jellyfish are as big as a Labradors and good luck climbing those steep cliffs once you reach shore. Luckily, we didn’t need the hammer as we couldn’t even find one in our cabin.

WP_20140204_052 — Boat Merchants selling snacks and booze

As our Head Steward urged us to keep the bartender busy, who am I not to comply??? Seeing our pale white skin glistening with tanning lotion was a welcome if creepy sight after a winter of grey polluted China skies. Need an Oreo or wine? Small junk boats, merchants selling pearls and snacks and booze come alongside the bigger cruise ships selling their wares. You put your money in a net and in return you get your goods. A tough life for these merchants rowing their boats all day with babies in tow. Thom’s brother told us that he swept this bay near here in 1971 on a mine sweeper. Hard to imagine this commercial tourist attraction was once a war zone but the people who live here still lead a meager existence in contrast to the beautiful cruise ships.

WP_20140204_095 — Thom aka The King of the Squid

Thom spent the late evening hours fishing for squid off the back of the boat. The crew was impressed with his results-two squid, scared out of their “ink” which they proceeded to jetson into the green waters of Ha Long Bay as he reeled them in. Thom didn’t eat the squid for breakfast, as the crew suggested, but he will be boasting for many years to come of his prowess with the hook. Whatever! I stood at a distance and took the pictures to document his expertise–I don’t do the “squid” thing. Anything that ugly can stay in the water and certainly shouldn’t be eaten. Holy. Hell. No. Way.

Park Scene in Hanoi, Vietnam

On February 6, 2014February 7, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Parks, Shanghai, Travel, Trips outside Shanghai, Vietnam1 Comment

WP_20140206_018 — Flowers are blooming in Hanoi!

It was lovely to see the ladies dancing in Vietnam just like they do in China. They had their loud speakers going and were working it! Our only day to enjoy Hanoi, we decided to walk around Hoan Kiem Lake today and enjoyed the warm weather. This lake is in the heart of the Old Quarter in Hanoi and seems to be enjoyed by all the locals. From the lovely pagoda in the middle of the lake to the bridge over to an island, the flowers were blooming everywhere. This is the one public space we have seen in Vietnam that is in good repair and maintenance. There is a nice walking path around it and we are looking forward to enjoying the lights that are strung up between the trees tonight as we plan an evening walk. There is a café on the lake as well as several restaurants with a view of the lake for everyone to enjoy.

On the first walk around the lake, we not only saw ladies dancing but many families out taking a walk and street vendors selling their wares. After we had gotten almost the whole way around, Thom turned to me and proposed an adventure. We would walk back, find the “seasoned” lady selling wooden children’s toys and buy them all. Thus, she could enjoy a well deserved day off and we would then spread some love around the park by giving away the toys. Done and done.

Oh what fun we had on this Vietnam “pay it forward” project. First, several gentlemen came to the lady’s aid when they thought we might be trying to swindle her. No, we reassured them that we really wanted her to have 500,000 dong to buy all the toys she had to sell. They were shocked and laughed. She smiled. Then, off we went around the park with Thom approaching any and all children and giving away the toys. Another vendor selling cards found out what we were doing and encouraged us to find the children from the “working” families and give them the toys. This, we tried to do. While we mainly got smiles and nods, Thom did manage to scare a few children with his goofy smile and outgoing positivity.

WP_20140206_031 — Thom giving away toys in Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi, Vietnam

Hopefully, stories will be told of the tall smiling Laowai wearing the bright green Xbox Sounders shirt and the joy he tried to bring to the children in the park. For us, it will be a very fond memory and may become a new tradition of spreading joy throughout the world as we enjoy great adventures wherever we go.

Walking The Streets of Hanoi

On February 6, 2014February 10, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Shanghai, Travel, Trips outside Shanghai, VietnamLeave a comment

WP_20140206_004 — French influence among the many cables strung between buildings.

What is it like to visit Hanoi, Vietnam? How to begin to describe this frightening, wonderfully unique place? First, the people are as friendly and helpful as the scooters are plentiful. The scene here is so different from Shanghai, where we live now. There are hardly any luxury stores or cars here yet the average citizen seems to live well and be very happy. Though we got a few hard stares from the older guys, in general we were accepted and welcomed with open arms. The French influence is strong here in the building architecture that is old and not kept up but still lovely and the jaunty French berets worn by the old gents sitting on the sidewalks.

WP_20140206_007 (1) — Poles are still widely used to balance the load on the shoulders of the local women to carry fruit and vegetables to sell.

The women dress to impress as they might in Paris, not in jeans and casual clothes—they wear dresses and heels on those scooters as they speed around. The restaurants here are more formal and have the white tablecloths and more French atmosphere of formality than you see in China. Yet, there is a traditional Vietnamese element prevalent on the streets with the strong ladies wearing their Non La traditional hats and using the poles to balance their heavy load of fruit or vegetables to sell to passersby. One aggressive lady tried to pin me against a street front with her load to try and convince me to buy her bananas and pineapples. Always nimble to stay alive, I dodged her and kept right on walking..being nimble is paramount to living in this part of the world.

WP_20140206_035 — Chicken just laying out on the sidewalk…street food in Hanoi, Vietnam-eat at your own risk.

Like China, life is lived here on the streets. You see barbers cutting hair and everyone eating on the sidewalks, squatting on small plastic stools as they inhale Pho and rice/vegs/chicken dishes that smell wonderful. We saw chickens running around in the streets by our hotel and meat, including chicken, laid out on the sidewalk, ready to be cooked but certainly not refrigerated or following any Western standards of food safety. Our friend from the cruise likened the street scene to Mumbai where the traffic is insane and the people are out in mass to enjoy socializing and eating. We saw many more Western tourists here in Hanoi than in China, probably due to the ease to enter Vietnam and the low cost. The dong is the currency and 21,000 dong = $1 US. So, we were paying millions of dong for items which was totally weird. I found myself chastising Thom for paying too much for Super Glue to fix my glasses that had inconveniently broken at the start of our trip. Turns out, he paid .50 cents for it…oops-what a bargain! I went crazy buying quilts from a non-profit I could feel good about that helps Vietnamese women make a living and the quality is fabulous. Baby Mia, our first grandchild, will enjoy laying on these gorgeous quilts for many years to come as Papa Thom tells stories of our adventures all over the world. We were enchanted by the bamboo bikes also for sale at the quilt store, www.mekong-quilts-org, including a tricycle that was ADORABLE! Other items you see for sale everywhere are lacquer boxes and bowls, ox horn cutlery, jade and silver jewelry and silk clothing. Very inexpensive and just beautiful…I bought an empty suitcase or two just in case and they will be going back full.

WP_20140206_020 — Enjoying the fine weather and the sights of Hanoi!

What sets Vietnam apart from China? Well, China does a great job keeping their public areas clean and well manicured with beautiful flowers and plants. Vietnam, does not. There is trash and dirt everywhere, no flower/trees in most public spaces and wires for who knows what are strewn everywhere, hanging between building, trees, poles, you name it-it’s nuts. There are few stop signs or traffic lights to help control traffic. I thought China streets were unsafe until I came here and now I will actually look forward to the quieter, more sane streets of Shanghai. Surprise! There is a place crazier than China when it comes to traffic and it’s Vietnam. I would still encourage you to visit but be prepared to be nimble and have nerves of steel if you want to cross ANY street in Hanoi, Vietnam. A glass or two of wine takes the edge off too!

Travelling with Thom-Always an Adventure

On February 6, 2014February 6, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Shanghai, Travel, Trips outside Shanghai, VietnamLeave a comment

So, I asked him, “Do you have any weapons?” before we left the house. Why? Because Thom likes to be prepared and that, at the very least, means a swiss army knife is on his person at all times and could also mean that he has a knife or two in as well owing to his Idahoan “survival” mentality for the many years we lived there in the woods. Thank God he had to give up the guns when we moved to China. Having grown up in NYC, he was elated to get some firepower to protect his family in the wilderness when we moved to Idaho…latent mountain man that he is. Knowing his love of being prepared, I got him a “survival tool” this Christmas with lots of handy uses all in a small metal square including a very sharp edge, similar to a box cutter. WTF—this is not something you need on an airplane, right? Who knew he would stash it in his wallet and forget about it. Now, that could be considered a weapon by many TSA agents, right? Prompting a strip search and possibly being led away and never returning in a foreign land, right?

As I breezed through security at Shanghai Pudong Airport and looked around, Thom was getting the second degree from a security agent. He was emptying his wallet, shrugging his shoulders & playing the “foreign card” of innocence while the gal and guy argued over what she saw on the xray screen of his possessions.. “There! There! In the wallet!” the gal insisted in Mandarin, of course, while Thom looked around innocently. Finally, behind the business cards, credit cards, etc. Thom pulled out the offensive weapon-his Christmas “survival” gift. Luckily, they just confiscated it and we quickly left the area, really ran, before he had to “bend and snap”. Of course, they probably flagged his ass from now on he will get the ultra deluxe pat down with the anal probe for future flights but for now, we were on our way to Vietnam, weaponless.

WP_20140203_002 — Oswaga, I love you..massage me….please…

Up to the VIP lounge we went because I had splurged on business class for us to travel, not knowing how bad coach would be on Vietnam Airlines. After all, the seat selection choices included “window smoking with infant”, so I expected the worst. The VIP lounge was lovely and Thom spent his time lounging in the Oswaga massage chair where he whimpered with delight as it kneaded and heated his back that is always in need of attention. If that wasn’t heaven enough, he then went to the bathroom where he found his beloved TOTO-heated seat and all. No toliet has ever been loved and revered as much as TOTO. Really, it’s a miracle we ever made it to Vietnam at all. Thom would have been happy living in the VIP Lounge for a few days, alternating between massage and TOTO.

But I pried his ass out of the massage chair, which was occupied by a waiting passenger as soon as we looked like we were leaving, and we were off for the flight to Hanoi….business class. BIG MISTAKE! Now, Thom knows what it’s like and it will be impossible for him to go back to economy on those long hauls to the US while I am flying business class courtesy of my company when I am truly on business. I told him it was no big deal but his eyes bugged out with the fine china, 3 forks/2 knives/3 spoons for all those delicious courses of food starting with tuna/salmon/fish and moving onto delicious pork and chocolate mousse. DAMN! What was I thinking?? And if the food wasn’t enough, the free Western magazines and hot towels clinched the deal. Having one attendant service his every needs took his pampering to a whole new level. Thank God they didn’t massage his feet, though he took off his shoes just in case they offered. Blanket? Water? Coffee? Tea? Private bathroom? Why, yes please, Thom now wants all those things. Of well, you only live once so you might as well travel in style if you can. And he’s worth it.

As I sipped my Taihitian Cocktail,or as I call it “a beach in a glass”, I allowed myself to appreciate the many blessings in my life including travelling with Thom. You just never know what he will do next but I am guaranteed he will always make me laugh.

Good Evening Vietnam!

On February 3, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Trips outside Shanghai, Vietnam1 Comment

WP_20140203_030 — Dinner here is served on and in the streets

Holy. Hell. We landed in Hanoi and immediately inhaled a smell that made a lasting impression and not in a good way. The humid hot air enveloped us as we climbed into the car for a long ride to the hotel, Calypso Grand, in the Old Quarter. In the darkness, I could make out very rundown French style buildings yet could see big screen TV’s in many apartments. The billboards screamed technology–Samsung, Panasonic, Sony, etc. but the vibe was more like being stuck in the 1950’s. The Vietnamese love karaoke bars and massage parlors just as much as the Chinese do–they are everywhere!

WP_20140203_016 — Café on the corner by our hotel

Scooters dominate the streets and here they are family vehicles, accommodating Mom, Dad and the baby. There are no street lights or traffic signals and it’s even more crazy than China. It’s the last day of the Tet Holiday and everyone was on the street squatting on little plastic stools eating their dinners late into the evening. We walked by buildings to peer inside, seeing decay on the outside and a much more renovated interior, many with circular staircases and one with a Porsche parked on the first floor.

WP_20140203_009 — Calypso Grand Hotel in Hanoi-yes, rose petals on the bed!

At our hotel, we were greeted with a smile and told to sit down emphatically so we could be served a fresh fruit welcome drink. Our room was very charming with a French balcony overlooking the busy street. There are no big chain hotels, only small boutique hotels lining the streets. We immediately stowed our bags and hit the streets, literally in Thom’s case as he fell walking off a rugged curb and sprained his ankle. The streets and sidewalks are all broken and hard to walk on especially at night. He’s sitting here now with a cold Coke can on his ankle trying to stop the swelling. No Walgreen’s on the corner for the needed items–we will learn to pack more medical supplied in the future.

WP_20140203_031 — Thom rocking his dragon T-shirt

Being a trooper and not wanting to go back to the hotel immediately, Thom hung in there and we sat at the café on the corner where we watched the scooter parade and enjoyed some tea/wine. Tomorrow, we leave early to go to Ha Long Bay to enjoy an overnight cruise on a junk boat. I can’t wait to see Vietnam by daylight!

Off to Vietnam we go…after the Super Bowl!

On February 3, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Shanghai, Trips outside Shanghai, Vietnam4 Comments

It’s surreal to think I am enjoying the Super Bowl in Shanghai this morning-Go Seahawks-and then will be eating dinner tonight in Hanoi, Vietnam. WHAT! I’m just a simple Midwestern gal. People like me marry young and never move from their hometown. Certainly a nice life but not for me. In this second chapter of my life with the kids all grown up, I chose to risk it all. Instead of leading a predictable, safe existence, I deliberately put myself out there daily with a goal that when I die, I’m just exhausted. How did this happen?

I guess it all started when I jumped off the cliff of life, leaving my “safe” job with a company I had been with for fourteen years and challenging myself to join a start-up that had the potential to keep me from eating cat food in my retirement or it could have failed just as easily. Coin toss! It has not been a cake walk for sure but along with all the tears of frustration amid feeling incredibly stupid as I learned, there have been the highs of making a difference in other people’s lives with precious moments that I will never forget. Those moments I cherish and remind me what’s really important. I am humbled daily and am constantly aware that everyone knows more than me and it usually takes me longer to figure some stuff out so I have to work harder than most but I’ve learned to just keep at it and never, ever give up. I’ve also accepted that I have to ask for help at times-tough for me to do. I’m the one who offers to help, not ask for it.

Leaving family behind to take on this China Challenge, I have had tears and guilt but when my son tells me that he thinks we lead the coolest life, I can only hope that I am setting a good example to my kids to take chances and live a life full of surprises and adventure. When my dad died, it was a wake up call to remind me to appreciate every precious moment that we have here. You truly never know when it will be your turn to pass. You cannot control the end but you can control the now. You can try to find joy in the simplest things every day and every moment. This I try to do.

So, off to Vietnam I go to have yet another great adventure with my travel partner aka the love of my life. I will savor the journey and the smiles that Thom will inevitably elicit from the Vietnam locals with his antics and goofy smile. More to come!

China Cross Country Commuting-Not for the faint of heart

On January 30, 2014January 30, 2014 By Travels with MelindaIn adventure, Beijing, Chinese New Year, Shanghai, Travel, Trips outside ShanghaiLeave a comment

Let me paint you a picture of a Chinese airport—it is one big ass smoking lounge because there are no rules against it, really just suggestions. Watch where you walk too because, especially in the winter with everyone in China choking on the air, the phlegm is flying everywhere. Need a Peking duck or hairy crabs (in season only) to take home to Momma—no problem, whether fish or fowl, it can be purchased for gift giving at the airport. The planes at least looked like familiar to their U.S. counterparts but that unnatural shaking that broke loose when we landed on the tarmac in Beijing made me wonder if these suckers were made of wood because it sounded like the nails were popping loose—get some super glue or wrap this baby in duct tape before I fly again please. The bullet train is looking better all the time, though I was told that it flipped a few years ago killing many. Choices, choices!

Finally landing in Beijing at 1 a.m. after the usual delays (I guess 80% or so of all flights are delayed due to unnaturally thick air or whatever) and expecting to walk into a terminal, I knew I was in trouble when the cold air hit me smelling like diesel fuel and I realized the journey was far from over.

We were herded onto a packed bus to get to the terminal. Joy! This after my initiation into in-country air etiquette in China that dictates that you jump up instantly and jam the aisles with elbows out to gain position to push your way out. It’s a game really and commuting on the subway every day makes me a player for this clusterf*&# of epic proportions. A jab here and elbow there plus the correct blocking style with my luggage and no one is getting around this little woman.

Shanghai to Nanjing to Beijing and back. For now, this will be a frequent circuit for me. Of course this is China so commuting is an adventure every time with surprises along the way that make you say ahhhhhh. Getting to the Grand Hyatt in Beijing, I staggered to the room and tried to calm down and get some sleep. A beautiful hotel located near the Forbidden City, the pool is RIDICULOUS and like a tropical heaven. Not that I thought of packing a swim suit or had time to relax but who knew that an oasis liked this could exist in cold, grey Beijing! I can’t wait to go back in February and bring Thom along so he can walk to all his favorite hutongs and take photos of life in China. That is, if I can get his ass off the pool lounger where I predict he will be residing especially once he learns that room service delivers poolside and the wifi is free.

I also got to experience eating Peking Duck for the first time. Lucky me got a prime seat across from the open air kitchen at Made In China, the really gorgeous hotel restaurant that is famous for this dish. The whole process from oven to table is very ceremonial. The browned duck is swung out of the wood stocked fire pit by the chef and, in front of the viewing window with great fanfare, he deftly sliced off the duck’s head and instantly the dam broke loose and tons of fluid gushed out of the bird. Yum! Drained dry, the waiter then brings the carcass to the table and slices it up for you to eat with little pancakes and various accoutrements like plum sauce/ginger/cucumber/sugar/mustard. Avian Flu be damned—I ate me some crispy duck and I liked it. I am trying to be more adventurous in my food choices as I haven’t projectile vomited for awhile so I think it’s overdue. Who knows—maybe I’ll try the scorpions next! I am sure in Vietnam, where we are going next week, there will be an opportunity to try out crazy stuff. Stay tuned!

Hopefully, we will survive the firecrackers tonight on Chinese New Year and the ensuing pollution. So far a few have gone off sounding like rapid gun fire and the pollution is so bad I can’t see across the river. Multiply that by a thousand and I hear that is what we will be experiencing. Thom vows to run out and take photos of the chaos but I am staying inside and will emerge only if my wine runs out. Cheers!

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