Men with Machine Guns=No Pictures..usually

“Stop asking people with machine guns if you can take their picture.  That’s just stupid.”.  After Thom tried to rationalize his behavior while sharing our adventures in Saigon with our son James, he was having none of it and proceeded to lecture his dad sternly via Skype.  Someone’s got to be the adult and that is obviously James not Thom.

Uzi needed to guard the Finance Bldg in Saigon
Uzi needed to guard the Finance Bldg in Saigon

So, lots of people ask what our kids think about us living in China and having crazy adventures.  When it first came up, my daughter was none too thrilled about China preferring I get a spot in London or anywhere else where she might want to visit.  That wasn’t an option so China it was and she was very supportive though will probably never visit while we are here as she is very busy with being a wife and new Mom to Mia.  We miss her terribly.

James is still in college so he has more flexibility to visit us on school breaks and was receptive to spending time in China.  So he has been able to spend months with us in China over the school holidays and explore with us, though he doesn’t find randomly walking the streets to be much fun like we do.  He likes to travel with a purpose and preferably in cooler weather like Seattle where he goes to school and always plans his days with food in mind.  Boy, do 21 year old boys like to eat–all the time!  His favorite activities with us were tobogganing down the Great Wall, sea kayaking in Hong Kong but mostly eating chicken pot pies delivered to our door in Shanghai by an expat online Pie Shop.  James declared them DELICIOUS-high praise indeed though I strongly believe there is no such thing as bad pie (or wine for that matter) but I’m not so picky.

Today, as we shared our fun times in Vietnam, James scolded Thom for his risk taking.  “You could get killed or arrested.  Stop it!”.  Like Thom will stop behaving badly-NOT!  In the never ending pursuit of cool photos, Thom had seen a building in Saigon and wanted to take a picture of it.  Of course, seeing the armed military guard caressing an Uzi machine gun didn’t stop him even after the guard pursued him and told him, “No pictures.”. Most rational people would apologize quickly and walk away even faster.  But, nooooooo, not Thom-he smiled and asked the guard if he could take HIS picture and asked about the building’s purpose. It was a government Finance Building and, no, the guard didn’t want his picture taken.  You think he wants to end up on Facebook or Twitter??  Hell No!!!  Of course, Thom got his shot and it will soon be all over social media.  Oops!

They do like to protect their government buildings in Saigon.  We ended up behind a chain link rope around one building somehow and when we needed to exit to cross the street, unfortunately we found ourselves having to jump over the chain but now it had barbed wire wound through it.  Now, I’m in a skirt and trying not to impale myself on this as I slowly executed a maneuver to get over it.  Yikes!  I think I flashed the traffic passing by but a girl’s got to do what a girl’s got to do to keep on having adventures.  This is also why we now carry a first aid kid with us at all times.  Be prepared is our motto-the worst can and will happen in a foreign country, which makes for good memories and interesting stories to share.  Back to Shanghai tomorrow!

Thom doing what he does so well
Thom doing what he does so well

Fashion Forward in Saigon

Silk dress Marilyn Monroe style with fan flowing out skirt on display
Silk dress Marilyn Monroe style with fan flowing out skirt on display

When you peel back the layers of fashion in Vietnam, you discover that besides the Vietnam traditional outfit for ladies which consists of a flowing tunic with pants, the fashion here varies widely with trendy boutiques offering truly fashion forward choices for shoppers in Saigon.  Of course, you’ll pay to be unique so you better load up at the ATM with millions of Dong ’cause you are going to need it to take home one of these outfits.  Hot Damn, let’s do some shopping!!! Not only are the stores decorated with trendy touches from statement art to  industrial chic with stained concrete floors, steel lighting plus the visual displays make you want to touch and buy their products.  One chic store had everything from b/w Vietnam portraits screenprinted on iPad covers to brightly colored recycled vinyl bags and sandals to handmade necklaces.  Hold me back–my luggage is already too heavy! Lured in by the outfits in the window featuring men’s pants with a studded fly (for dudes who want some attention I’m guessing), this gallery of fashion finds featured garments that were works of arts accented by the dragonfly wire hangers they were hung from.  Very expensive and probably too nice to actually wear  in my lifestyle, I admired the artist’s embroidered shirts and wraps as well as her one of a kind necklaces.  Thom shot off some photos for me while I tried to distract the shop girls because I knew they wouldn’t allow it–sure enough, they shut him down quickly but not before I got a few to share.

Studded fly for the man who wants a little attention
Classic Lambretta scooter on display with fashion art
Classic Lambretta scooter on display with fashion art

At yet another gorgeous showroom, the beautiful silk prints in heavy brocade fabrics draped just right were set off with huge statement necklaces.  I wouldn’t dare buy silk because I would almost surely dribble coffee on it or, God forbid, sweat while wearing it.  Still, I appreciate the gorgeous styles that are too expensive for most folks here in Vietnam.  I was surprised to see as many luxury retailers here with the large showpiece stores-LV, Chanel, Hermes, etc. all are represented here in Saigon by our hotel.  Our last day is today so I’m off to pick up a few more items to remember our great stay in Saigon.

Statement necklace aceents silk print top
Statement necklace accents silk print top

Scooters Rule in Saigon

Scooters rule-they even have their own traffic signal and lanes
Scooters rule-they even have their own traffic signal and lanes

Scooters rule here in Vietnam.  Everywhere and always–they serve as the family mini-van and commuter car.  I have seen families of five on one small scooter.  Helmets required here which is cool to see after the helmet-optional China scene.  I see more air masks on most riders too than in China, though the air pollution is far less.  Ladies ride side saddle, dressed to the nines with their sparkly high heels and crossed legs perfectly comfortable and toddlers hold on for dear life between their parents legs, standing up on the floorboard by the handles.  This is life in Vietnam.

Vietnam's version of the mini van--scooter for 4!
Vietnam’s version of the mini van–scooter for 4!

At least scooters have their own traffic signals and designated lanes on most streets.  You don’t see the luxury cars here that you would in China.  It’s mostly taxi’s and scooters.  Not even really bikes-just a few “seasoned” folks riding old school.  When it poured in a torrential thunderstorm yesterday with high winds, the scooters went into hiding until the weather calmed and then they flooded the streets to resume their commute.  They sell special scooter rider poncho’s everywhere–hood, extended arms and headlight coverage as well.  Still, those poor riders had to be soaked to the bone yesterday with the waves of water coming down so heavy.

Today the weather dawned clear so as Thom and I checked out the boardwalk by the Saigon River, I shot this video–at 7:30 a.m. on a Sunday when we thought the streets would be deserted, making the crossing across the wide boulevard by the river much easier.  We went by there yesterday and didn’t even attempt it.  NOPE!  The scooters were out in full force early so we had to be super nimble and scoot our asses across the street dodging the masses.  That’ll wake you up!  I don’t advise most people to try this–last night we saw our doormen escorting some tourists across a small street by the hotel to keep them alive. Not for the fainthearted! 

Saigon Street Market

As the navigator in charge of map duties today, I promptly got us lost on our first full day in Saigon.  Lucky us, we managed to stumble into a cool art gallery open house complete with artists giving interviews and free wine.  SCORE!  The paintings were very diverse from the Vietnam water buffalo to striking portraits and colorful murals.  I love these type of unexpected surprises when out travelling in new cities.

Gallery show in Saigon
Gallery show in Saigon

While we were the only expats in the place, everyone just smiled at us and let us admire the art at our leisure.  Rounding a corner where one store had 12 feet of nothing but mooncakes for sale, we found a local market where Saturday shopping was in full swing.  This wasn’t the tourist t-shirt market.

The stalls sold veggies, fruits-lots of coconuts ready to be capped and a straw inserted to drink the water-as well as very unrefrigerated meat just hanging out with the flies.  YUM!  Maybe there was so much hard liquor for sale as well to chase down and kill all the germs from eating the street meet.  My Gma Hannah believed in the medicinal properties of Jack Daniels–one shot is a cure for what ails you.  Quick and effective home remedy!

Street meat-yum!
Street meat-yum!

At the market, you could stock up on most of the basic needs–a fan, socks, undies and most grocery items with lots of USA branded snacks available as well.  The scooters, of course, kept us on our toes as we took photos and browsed.  Though there seem to be less scooters on the sidewalks than in Shanghai, in general the scooters dominate all streets.  As we crossed a busy intersection, Thom yelled, “I’m going.  Follow at your own risk”  BAM–He boldly stepped in front of and between the barrage of traffic to get to the other side.  He is fearless and perhaps a wee bit stupid as well, all good traits to have to navigate here.

A couple beside me laughed and I commented that Thom was from NYC and could navigate almost any busy street without dying.  Turns out, the Australian couple I talked to were going to Shanghai next so we traded China best practices (don’t buy street or PC Mall electronics, buy pearls from Sarah’s Pearls at AP Market) and they encouraged us to see Melbourne soon.  Australians are such friendly mates!  I can’t wait to check out their country.

Liquor stall at the market
Liquor stall at the market

As we found our way back to the hotel for pool time, we realized that the shop we had gotten lost looking for was very close by but, had we not got lost, we would have had a very dull morning.  Getting lost is our way of soaking in the local culture and discovering new and exciting places.  May we always enjoy the journey and, with me navigating our adventures, we will surely always get lost along the way.

Fortune Telling at Temple Street Night Market

Temple Street Night Market in Kowloon is known for fake everything and fortune tellers.  Since I have already got all the fake stuff I could ever want from the excellent markets in Beijing and Shanghai, we wandered through the stalls very quickly.  The “Don’t Fart In the Room” and other tacky crap held no appeal for any of us so we just kept on walking.  Crossing over into the dark backstreets behind the market, the fortune tellers were lined up touting their services.  English speaker?  No problem.

Fortune Tellers lined up in Kowloon
Fortune Tellers lined up in Kowloon

There had to be 20 or so fortune tellers lined up with outdoor singing booths across the aisle providing boisterous ambience.  We walked by the gents and ladies initially with Thom scoffing at their trade but I decided to do the “when in Rome” thing and picked the gal who looked the most professional.  After settling on a 150HK$ palm reading, I literally put myself in her hands, squatted on my plastic stool and let her have a go at it.

Fearless and Lucky I am according to my FT
Fearless and Lucky I am according to my FT

The left hand, she told me, represents my life under age 30 and the right hand over 30.  Immediately she showed me my health line which is the arcing prominent line nearest my thumb.  Very healthy indeed!  Check and check!  She knew that I am a great adventurer (probably because I’m sitting in a dark alley in Kowloon!) and will  fearlessly try anything.  I have a good human nature but can tell the bad guys from the good guys, which is always a valuable trait. No fooling this lady!  My lucky line was strong for both hands.  Maybe I can fit in a quick gambling trip to Macau after all??

She continued seriously with very wise advice that could apply to all males–my man is not perfect so ease up on him.  Really?  Also, he doesn’t have a clue what to buy me for presents so just tell him and everyone will be happier.  Hallelujah, sister!  She kept repeating that there had only been two significant men in my life, which would be Thom, of course, and my first husband who died at 23.  My FT (fortune teller) was impressed with my long life line–they do live long in my family but saw some troubling smaller lines indicating that I need to let things go and be happy more.  Ain’t that the truth!  That must have been the Perfectionist, People Pleaser and Overachiever lines etched deeply into my palms.  She could tell I was very successful in all that I do (I wish!) but helped other people be successful too.  I try!  Final parting advice-she warned me not to lend money to others because I would never get it back.  Duh!  Bank of Melinda is now closed.

So many lines, so many details of life in the hands
So many lines, so many details of life in the hands

Overall, my under 30 hand lines are much less pronounced than my over 30 hand.  This confirms what I already knew–that I am seizing the day with my over 30 life and enjoying great adventures with Thom while we can!  So today we are off to the Big Buddha to pray for contentment and lucky lottery numbers so that we can continue to keep experiencing these awesome travel moments.  Big Buddha, brace yourself!  The Georges are Coming!

Hong Kong Sunday

Drinking wine, cooking somehow in plastic bags large pots of delicious smelling food, these women were obviously celebrating something.  The lovely ladies were wearing ceremonial brightly colored costumes and enjoying themselves thoroughly. What’s going on in Hong Kong today?

Indonesian ladies celebrating in Victoria Park
Indonesian ladies celebrating in Victoria Park

A street vendor who had costumes to try on for picture taking told us that it was Indonesia New Year this week.  I researched this but couldn’t confirm his information.  No matter, there was some partying going on–we’re talking thousands of women giving each other manicures, singing and smiling.  What a joy it is to immerse yourself in a local culture by walking through the local parks.  The few brave men who were jogging through the park were looking around in amusement at their minority status.  Better run fast, gents, these ladies outnumber you 1,000 to 1 and some might need husbands!

Socializing in Victoria Park
Socializing in Victoria Park

After wandering the park, we sought out a/c in the first urban Ikea we had seen in Asia.  Same meatballs, same furniture.  Since we own all Ikea furniture back in the U.S., it was like being at home.  Sure enough, many of the Indonesian ladies had perched themselves in the living room showrooms to socialize in the cool conditions. Smart!  Next stop was the local mall where we checked out the Apple store (empty!) and the Gap, where we bought James some clothes.  He never asks for clothes but the shirt he was wearing today was at least 5 years old so he was due some new duds.  Not overtly appreciative of our shopping on his behalf (he’s 21 after all) he did change into a new outfit when we had returned from the pool portion of our day.

Hopefully, James will be feeling better tonight for a trip to the Peak for some picture taking.  Tomorrow, we visit the Big Buddha and ask for the lucky lottery #’s for Danny, our hotel butler.  He asked us kindly today to bow 3x times and ask for guidance from Buddha.  If we receive “89”, then we are not being respectful enough because the lottery #’s run 1-45.  When we win, Danny informed us that he will become GM of the Grand Hyatt and we can be CEO’s.  Sounds good to me, Danny!  Big Buddha, here we come!

The Adventure that is Inner China Travel

Spoiled by flying Delta on all my international travels, I got to experience multiple inner country flights this week and may I say, Air China sucks. It is a throwback airline utilizing these teeny tiny pale blue fabric antique seats that recline into your lap. Seriously, the dude in front of me is laying in my lap on this four hour odyssey to get back to Beijing from Hong Kong. I am seriously fighting the urge to smack his head and tell him to kindly decline to recline! And the guy next to me not only snores but when he did wake up (okay, I poked him just a bit to make him stop-works on Thom after all), he’s now clacking away at some game on his iphone….thank God I have my serious headphones with me on this trip so I can plug in and tune out. A friendly seat mate I am not. I think I actually snarled and it wasn’t pretty. On a plus side, he must have taken a bath today because the body odormeter is low and he has kept his shoes on. Hallelujiah!  Ahh, you appreciate the little things in life when you travel Inner China.

I am in row 51F…yep, that far back and surrounded on all sides by hacking humanity. Yes, I am spoiled and get to travel in business class most times on international flights. Even on domestic in the US, I usually get upgraded so this trip is not as pleasant. Reminder to self-do not take upgraded seats for granted. It’s not the free booze or high quality food served on fine china, which is nice no doubt, but the extra personal space is what I crave. Next time I fly back to the US, it’s a special business trip so I have to fly coach not business class. As one guy put it who has to suffer a similar fate, Xanax and wine will be our friends and help us to obliviate and only wake up when we land on friendly soil. Having another blood vessel burst in my old ear drum when I landed in Hong Kong, I can’t believe I forgot my Sudafed and nose spray which I’m supposed to take to avoid this fate. OUCH! I looked to find such drugs in Hong Kong but no such luck, so I am furiously chewing gobs of gum and hoping I don’t scream out in pain when we land in Beijing. Yes, travelling is fun and adventure but it can be quite a bitch as well.

And speaking of bitching, the food served in tinfoil on Air China is an adventure in food poisoning. On the way over, I took it because it was very late and I was starved. At least there was a bun sealed in plastic that I hoped would not be too toxic. Turned out it had a red bean paste center which wasn’t too bad. The chicken entrée screamed, “Eat me and die” so I heeded the warning and shunned it. The breakfast on the flight to Beijing is noodles and shrimp. Yes, please give me shellfish prepared on a runway. The flight attendant looked super annoyed when I waved off the food she was peddling. Yes, I know you want to get rid of this shit but I am not that stupid. NO. THANK. YOU.   Knowing better than to wait to eat on the plane, I stood in line at McD’s at the airport and got a whole wheat bagel with cream cheese. YUM! The memory of that tasty morsel will keep me going for awhile.

As we get ready to land, I try to make use of the facilities.  OCCUPIED.  Okay, I’ll wait…and wait…and wait until the surly flight attendant tells me that we are landing and I need to sit down.  But what about the Occupant???  She does knock on the door but then buckles up for landing.  Okay, what’s wrong with this picture?  You got it.  Some old guy fell asleep in the bathroom and landed there, poking his head out as we exited and looking around confused.  What airline lets a passenger stay in the bathroom during landing???  Air China does.  Enough said.

Meanwhile, seeing life from the cheap seats in the back, I did finally find time to write and enjoy my Macklemore playlist.  I get a kick out of listening to him in China because I know his music is censored here.  Same Love-not in China.   I hit the ground in Beijing, running straight to work and then get to enjoy another “economy” flight back home to Shanghai on Saturday. I’ve been gone for two months so I’m hoping our Ayi hasn’t take up residence with her family/friends in our apartment and that the a/c has been turned on since it’s a blistering 100 degrees and humid here. Home Sweet Home!

 

 

Boise to Beijing-The Journey Begins

Good bye blue skies and fresh air!  Hello grey, chunk-filled air that causes me to cough..hard.  So long family and friends!  Hello insane work schedule though I love what I do.  Tomorrow I will make the long, long journey from Boise, Idaho to Beijing, China.  Leaving behind my new granddaughter Mia and my lovely family including my husband, who will stay to oversee the purchase of our new home here in Boise, our retreat from China but primarily a vacation rental till we expatriate.  Though I have been busy working from Boise to get ready for my big project in China, I have been blessed to at least be able to see the baby and family every night.  We take a walk around the neighborhood-the whole crazy crew:  Baby Mia, Hannah & Mike, Thom and I plus the crazy canine duo pulling us along, Izaak and Ollie, plus Det. Stabler, the only cat I know who goes for walks too. Now, I really don’t favor cats, being a dog person, but I will acknowledge that Det. Stabler is an unusually loyal and smart cat.  Not that I ever want to support a cat again.  Ever.  I prefer dogs who love you always and never give attitude.

Thom enjoying some puppy love from our Izaak.  I miss him so much!
Thom enjoying some puppy love from our Izaak. I miss him so much!
Det. Stabler coming along for the walk sans leash
Det. Stabler coming along for the walk sans leash

For the next month or two, I will be all alone in Beijing working hard.  More days in a hotel than I want to think about, not that it is a bad hotel but I miss being home.  Our Ayi Pink probably thinks we bailed on her.  I wonder what she does all day in the apartment with really nothing to do except dust the ever present dirt that is spewing out of the vents and hopefully watering our plants so they are not all dead by the time we return.  The wave pool with sandy beach will be open for the summer by the time I return to Shanghai in late June.  I’ve been watching the feral cats use this sandy beach as their own private litter box all winter while working out in the gym overlooking it.  Wonder if they’ll clean up all the cat poop before the season starts?  Oh, right, I live in China.  Note to self–wear shoes in sand.

What do I miss from Shanghai?  I miss the daily adventures walking the streets with Thom.  Experiencing the unusual and crazy life in China.  I don’t miss the pollution AT ALL.  My lung scare is still top of mind and I don’t look forward to wearing my mask more to protect myself but I will because I value living and breathing.  My CT scan showed lung damage caused by remote exposure to TB but thank God, I was tested and it’s not active TB. Did I get “exposed” to TB in China.  Yep.  Damn Subways.  Oh well.

Three generations enjoying lunch on a sunny, clear day in Boise.
Three generations enjoying lunch on a sunny, clear day in Boise.

Packing today was an experience in futility.  Due to the lure of low, low prices in the U.S., I may have overdone the shopping a bit. Well, maybe more like 20 or 30 pounds worth. Don’t judge me–the top size in China is a small 4 so I loaded up on the generous US sizing to help my self confidence.  Now, I am forced to make my son bring over some of my clothes when he comes.  Sorry dude but you’re Momma’s mule!  (He doesn’t ever read my blog so I’m safe)  He’ll come over with Thom at the first of July with an extra bag or two to have adventures all summer exploring the China that I’m too afraid to see.  Yes, until you live outside the U.S. you never consider that your travel plans will be heavily influenced by the reality of “are there are toilets or not?”  In pretty much all of rural China, it’s a definite “NOT”.  No toilets, no go -just my policy.  Men can go anywhere, anytime–females are challenged in that regard especially if you don’t like to squat by the side of the road.  So, Thom and James will take the trains here and there and see lots of crazy shit I am sure.  I will stay home and work where there are heated TOTO toilets close by–my new office is AMAZING!

So, on my last day in lovely Boise, we went to a great lunch, sat outside on the patio and soaked in the clean air.  I will never, ever take for granted the simple things in life like being able to drink a margarita on the rocks with no worries that the “rocks” will be made of toxic water that will induce projectile vomiting.  Ahhhhh….I will miss those little things….Beijing, watch out, here I come!

 

My Destiny-Manhattan & Me

NY Post. Bagel Shops. $1 Pizza. Dog parks. Broadway. Interesting people-EVERYWHERE. Why do I love NYC so much? All that & more. You can never be bored here. I hate being bored. I want to be able to walk for miles and see something new and different, whether it be a store or people or a park, every day I am alive. I’m a walker and NYC is a walking paradise. Even in the downpour last night, we had fun dodging under scaffolding and running across broad avenues to reach the historic and wonderful theater where we saw Kinky Boots.

Broadway Baby-Kinky Boots Amazingly Fabulous!
Broadway Baby-Kinky Boots Amazingly Fabulous!

Enriching my colleague’s life with a night on Broadway, he was even more amazed when I leaned over and told him that those gorgeous ladies doing the high kicks in the skimpy outfits and kinky boots were all men. Priceless. He was still talking about it the next day and really appreciated the story line and talent displayed on stage. But never, ever would you or could you experience something like that in China.  I’m glad we could share that with him.  And, yes, those were Kinky Cocktails in sippy cups.  When I die and the grandkids are going through our crap, they’ll see my collection of sippy cups from all the Broadway plays we have gone to and think their Nai Nai was pretty cool and drank ALOT.  Oh, the stories they will tell but hopefully we will inspire them to see our big, wonderful world.

Today, after work we walked around the UN area between 49th and 55th and 2nd Avenue, wandering aimlessly with no destination in mind as we do everywhere we go.  Manhattan, we love you!  When we stumbled upon the Peter Detmold dog park by the East River and 51st Street we just felt like it was home.

Puppies galore!  I miss my Izaak so much!
Puppies galore! I miss my Izaak so much!

There were even Vizla’s playing among the many dogs with their owners chatting and enjoying the warm sunny day.  Ahhhhhhh….this is where we belong.  While there were no coal barges running up and down the river like in Shanghai, an apartment here would be awesome.  We favor a river view always, though whether we could afford one here is still to be determined.

Many of the buildings were very historic with beautiful stonework and rich details.  Doormen in their uniforms guarding the residences doesn’t bode well for affordability but does speak to feeling secure and pampered.  Many restaurants including Il Positino and other international restaurants due to the UN being so close made for a diverse atmosphere.  How can we make this happen?  Well, I have been known to be a planner and stubborn in my resolve to make things happen–it took me almost 4 years to get an international job, taking on the challenge of many different assignments to get to where we are now, so it’s in my wheelhouse to make this happen in the future for us as well.

We have no intention of cutting our current adventure short but we are restless vagabonds who long to have Manhattan as our base of operation some day, along with a nice abode in Boise, Idaho to visit often with the soon-to-be arriving Mia and her superb parents, Mike & Hannah, along with our son James who will probably stay in the damp, grey Seattle he favors.  When he graduates next year, I just may go back and get my MBA in China which could serve me well as a consultant in my future years should I go in that direction.  In the meantime, I will dream of living in the Big Apple with Thom and start saving to make the dream become a reality.  EVERYONE NEEDS TO DREAM BIG!!  That doesn’t mean, of course, that I’m giving up our VIP Membership at Dragonfly Massage in Shanghai.  A girl has to have her weekly foot massages.  I’m not a savage.

View from the dog park.  How do you beat this?
View from the dog park. How do you beat this?

Nightime in Nanjing

Nanjing is an enchanting “2nd tier” city in China, just one hour by bullet train north of Shanghai.  Full of history and friendly people, Thom and I took to the streets to explore and experience the culture firsthand.  There is nothing better than seeing the look on the hotel concierge’s face as we ask for a map, tell them where we want to go and then explain we are going to walk there.  At this moment, their heads explode and they start arguing with us that we can’t do it.  Want to bet?  Want to try and stop me???  And off we go…

Spring is almost here in Nanjing!
Spring is almost here in Nanjing!

From the hotel window, a grey sea of concrete looks totally uninviting but street level reveals small businesses vying for the locals hard-earned dollar and a not-yet-developed city with sidewalks teeming with crowds as they walk to/from work and play.  A lovely lake with a park in and around it will provide us with many chances to explore within the stone walls that surround the city, built in the 1300’s to provide protection.

Of course after blowing the hotel staff’s minds with our plan for the evening, Thom and I wandered the streets of a city we have never been to before, walking for miles in the dark to find Pisa Pizza, that came highly recommended online.  Finally giving up with feet aching and bellies screaming out, “FEED ME or DIE!”, I asked a friendly barista at Starbucks for help and her friend kindly wrote us out a map and we hailed one of the few available cabs to try and find it.  Mr. “I don’t give a damn” Cabbie gave up and let us out without finding it but, determined and stubborn as I am, we continued to roam and finally found it tucked away on top of a stone walkway-totally hidden and out of the way.  It looked very “local” but I was not going to leave without a hot pizza pie.  Basic cheese with pesto, it was hot & delicious.

Best Pizza in Nanjing
Best Pizza in Nanjing

Of course, by the time we finally found it and then ate, it was late and the last thing I wanted to do was walk back to the hotel far, far away.  Oh, we’ll just hail a cab-WRONG!  They must be using all the cab apps here in Nanjing because every cab was taken and no one would look our way as we braved traffic to try & hail one so off we trudged home, stopping along the way at another hotel just to use the facilities.  The pizza place was a “squat only” so I passed and ended up wishing I hadn’t as we walked miles.  Luckily, a Laowai like me can walk confidently into any nice Western hotel and find a lobby restroom.  Score!

We noticed so many little things about life here as we walked.  Karaoke shops with pulsating lights are HUGE and there is a significant lack of Western restaurants that you would find in Shanghai, though McDonald’s and KFC are popular.  You don’t see people eating on the streets like you do in Vietnam or even Shanghai, maybe because it is colder here?  You definitely don’t see the fancy cars like in Shanghai either with more bikes than Lamborghinis.  On a cool March night, the people are out walking and enjoying the mild weather with their dogs and families.  The streets are clean but don’t expect to find your way with English street signs because there aren’t any–one of the reasons we got lost going out for pizza.  We had a map but, hey, it’s China so it wasn’t really made to scale or accurate in any way, shape or form.

Learning about Buddhism
Learning about Buddhism

Tonight, we walked through the park and enjoyed seeing a Buddhist museum.  We thought it was closed but the door was open so we peered inside and found a young guy reading a book.  He welcomed us, speaking in English and proceeded to share with me the Buddhist culture.  While Thom snapped photos, he and I chatted as he told me that the piles of food were to symbolize sharing and were given to various groups who came to the temple.  I look forward to seeing the park and temples later in the spring when the trees are in bloom.

Close to the hotel, we walked by a very old woman sleeping beside her sweet potato cart.  We had gone about a block when I stopped and told Thom I wanted to go back and buy a potato from her and grossly overpay her.  He agreed, of course, and off we went.  Waking her up with a cheery, “Ni Hao!”, she carefully weighed the one I picked out on her ancient wood scale and asked me for 5RMB.  I handed her the 100RMB note and walked away smiling.  She returned my smile after it dawned on her what I was doing and she waved and repeated, “Celia”, meaning who knows what but if my late night sale allowed her to end her very long day of hard work with some money in her pocket, then I am happy.

Sweet Potato Lady
Sweet Potato Lady

If I ever think I am having a hard day, I will look at my new screensaver on my fancy way-too-smart phone and I will smile at my dear sweet potato lady.  God bless her.

p.s.  Thom ate the sweet potato and pronounced it DELICIOUS!  I swear he can and will eat anything.  🙂