Riding the Cloud to London Royal Observatory

On our last trip to London, I discovered yet another hidden gem! Did you know there is a cable car that sails high over the River Thames taking you to/from places you probably haven’t explored yet? Who knew??? I’ve been lucky enough to visit London many times for both business and pleasure. In June on our way back from a few weeks in Italy, we dropped by to see the Mets play the Phillies at London Stadium, so we stayed on a new side of the town in an area called Canary Wharf on the River Thames. We took the Cloud Cable Car over the Thames and explored the Royal Observatory. We even saw a fox hiding in the woods on our adventure. A complete London experience!

On the far east side of London, Canary Wharf is a busy area near the Isle of Dogs in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets. In addition to being a leading global financial district in the United Kingdom, Canary Wharf is famous for a cluster of the tallest modern commercial complexes and residential high-rise buildings. Built in the early 1990s, the district is home to the first tallest iconic skyscraper in the UK, One Canada Square. We stayed at the London Marriott Hotel Canary Wharf, which was ideally located and had a nice member’s lounge that we took great advantage of for drinks and snacks. Outside the hotel, the river was just steps away as well as lots of restaurants, shops and conveniently located near the Tube, DLR light rail and the Overground.

But back to the amazing cable car ride we took. For only 6 euros per person one way, you go up and over the river while enjoying a great view! We took an Uber to the cable car from our Canary Wharf hotel-short trip but a little too far to walk. Our Uber driver told us that locals use the cable car more than tourists. Getting off the cable car, we walked to the Greenwich bus station 5 minutes away. We picked up the 198 bus and off to the Greenwich Observatory we went. It’s all “tap to pay” for cable car and buses-no advance tickets needed. Climb the bus stairs and get the front seats on top of double decker for a good view.

Cable car details: IFS Cloud Cable Car – Transport for London (tfl.gov.uk)

The Royal Observatory, Greenwich

Situated on a hill in Greenwich Park in southeast London overlooking the River Thames, visiting this historic site is an all-day excursion. Pick a beautiful day and, after your awesome cable car ride, discover how this observatory played a major role in history of astronomy and navigation. Straddle the Prime Meridian and wander through the museum before walking to the river to check out the clipper ship Cutty Sark. Enjoy the park and surrounding forest areas-you might even see a fox hiding among the foliage.

Observatory details: https://www.rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory and https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Observatory,_Greenwich

Greenwich walking tunnel

Since we took the cable cars over the River Thames to get to Greenwich, we decided to go under the river to get back to the hotel. So, we walked from the top of the hill where the Greenwich Observatory is, through the village of Greenwich and on to the river, where we saw the Cutty Sark and right beside it is the entrance to the Greenwich Walking Tunnel. While there is an elevator, don’t count on it because it gets heavy use, and it was actually not working when we got to the other side. So, that means you have to be able to go down (and then up) LOTS of steps to get under the river.

While bikers are supposed to walk their bikes through the tunnel, they probably don’t based on what we saw, so be aware and avoid bikers speeding along the path. We walked through mid-day, and it was not very busy. I’m not sure I would recommend walking this route at night, as there are no security personnel on site, though there are security cameras along the way. Not to scare you off this route because it is unique and a must do if you are in the area. Enjoy the journey!

Greenwich walking tunnel details: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenwich_foot_tunnel

A Month in London-My Observations

One of the many reasons I love to travel is to experience firsthand how other countries are different than the US. I believe travel expands your horizons, stimulates thinking about how other people live, and makes you appreciate your own life back home. Before I lived for several years in China on a work assignment, I had never appreciated the US’s clean air, water and soil. All those pesky US regulations ensure we are safe from pollution and I’m all for them. When I used to bring Chinese citizens to the US for work trips, they would stare at the blue skies and ask me if air quality was always like that-clean and breathable. On a good day in Shanghai, the air quality index (AQI) was 125 or so and on a bad day, the AQI could skyrocket to 400+ where you could even taste the pollution indoors. An average AQI in Boise, Idaho where I live is 50 or under except for right now during fire season when we are in the 150-200 AQI range. Everywhere we go in the world, I find reasons to both appreciate my home and fall in love with new places. If I’m not on a journey, then I’m planning the next one. So many places to see, so little time. Next up is a girl’s trip to the Netherlands in September!

Because we completed a one month+ pet sit in London in January/February of this year, I was able to compare the day-to-day normal life of working and being at home in the UK with our experience back in Boise. Here are some of my observations:

LIKE:

  • History everywhere you look, even on the neighborhood walk with the dog. So much prettier than our 1950s bland architecture in my neighborhood back home.
  • Gas hobs aka stoves cook so fast you really can’t turn away from the stove while cooking but dinner gets done quickly. I now know why people on those home buying shows always want a gas stove not electric. When you travel, you learn how to cook differently or starve.
  • Heated towel racks are common in bathrooms, working to soften up the towels-more on those below. Warm towels after a bath are pure bliss.
  • Local foods that we embraced in the UK included daily tea, hot cross buns available fresh at the grocery, fish and chips, curry, and loads of international restaurants. When in Rome!
  • So. Many. Newspapers. Journalism must still be a viable career in Europe. I love especially the really large Saturday editions. Back home in the US, most newspapers have either closed down or are on their way to being solely digital. When I asked for a NYT Sunday paper in Seattle on a trip last year, they looked at me like I was a criminal, and I was told forcefully to read it online, as having a paper edition was wasteful and bad for the environment. They haven’t gotten that message here in the UK and I loved it.

DISLIKE:

  • Cars and buses coming at you from left, right and you better be alert. With help from the pavement signs, I learned quickly to look left, look right, and be nimble because traffic is coming at you from all directions you don’t expect coming from the US. And don’t forget MIND THE GAP when you are entering/existing the Tube. Typically, there is not a huge gap between the platform and the train, until there is, and you fall onto the tracks (not that this happens frequently-you’re probably more likely to be pushed onto the tracks, so never stand too close when you are waiting for the next train). Don’t mean to scare you off public transportation. Just be aware.
  • Typically, hard water = towels so hard you definitely do not need a loofah to get rid of your dry skin. Putting the towels on the heated rack (love this feature in European bathrooms!) does soften them a little bit and are toasty when you get out of the shower. Ironing them might help too but I don’t iron so that is just a theory.
  • No washcloths provided anywhere in Europe-bring them or buy when you get here.
  • Dryers-as fast the gas hobs cook, the dryers don’t dry quickly. Also, we found out after waiting a few hours for clothes to dry that our dryer in London required emptying a water extraction tube after every cycle. Who knew? This is how the moisture is collected vs. a venting system that we are used to in the States. The appliances you are used to in the US are different in Europe. Use a translation app if the equipment controls are in a language you don’t know.
  • You will find stairs in almost any European house or apartment building because, due to urban density, they build up not out. Great exercise for those legs! Be mindful of your feet and hold onto the banister. Thom and I both slipped a few times as we got used to being alert and not carrying too much when navigating the steep curving stairs.

WTH?:

  • Foxes are everywhere in London neighborhoods-they are supposed to be nocturnal, but we saw them daily just rambling down the block in broad daylight like they owned the place. Foxes like garbage similar to racoons and make loud barking/screaming noises at night like the coyotes back home. Once we got used to them, it was not scary or a big deal. We saw one run across the busy road down the block from our house and dodge the double decker bus like a pro.
  • Dogs are everywhere in London-on the Tube, in the shops and welcome in some restaurants with their own “Dog Menu”. Now, you would think there might be some food and health laws restricting animals in cafes but apparently not. They are welcome and usually well behaved.
  • Off leash dogs run amok in the parks, rolling in the mud (always raining here) yet wearing the cutest outfits.
  • Lovely fireplaces are often found in every room of the old houses, but most don’t work-too hard to convert to gas? Perhaps too dangerous to have wood burning for sure in these old homes-don’t blame them there.
  • Old houses are lovely but don’t have heat in all the rooms?? Dress warm-layer up. At restaurants, you will also have this type of experience in their bathrooms. Brrrrr…..I used an electric heated throw to stay warm in the living room while enjoying British television shows.
  • Many roads have “blinds” where it will suddenly go to one lane where drivers have to be bold and own the lane or take turns-it’s very organic and scary. One blind right outside the Spaniard Inn window where we were dining made us both gasp and chuckle to watch the cars and double decker buses dodging and frequently backing up to accommodate the heavy flow of traffic. Insanity!

CREATURE COMFORTS WE MISSED WHILE WE WERE AWAY: (obviously other than family and our dog)

  • Sleep number bed with adjustable positions and warming feet features-the ultimate in sleep experience vs. the average full-size bed.
  • TOTO -if you’ve ever experienced it, you know what I’m talking about. Google it. Bidets don’t even come close.
  • Gas fireplace that we use constantly back home and is so cozy on a cold winter day.
  • Computer lap tray so I can escape to the couch to work sometimes.
  • Comfy office-I’m spoiled by my ergonomic office chair and electric standing desk back home.
  • Gym equipment in our basement for those cold and/or rainy days to get some exercise. Yes, it does rain frequently in London, so we now understand why everyone has those rubber boots aka wellies and rain gear because you have to go out in the rain, or you’d never be able to leave the house. The plus side is that you don’t need a humidifier because you are living in a rain forest with lovely natural humidity.
  • Television sports-you have to get a subscription to watch them most places or go to the local pub. While we do have Chromecast for streaming apps when we travel, we were unable to pick up any US sports because of geofencing so we missed our American NFL football and college basketball that we would normally be watching back home. First world problems, I know.
  • Embrace the changes when you travel and enjoy the journey!

St. Paul’s Cathedral-London

St. Paul’s Cathedral is yet another site that we had never had time to sufficiently explore while in London, once again confirming that we need to keep coming back here! You might have seen it when Charles and Diana got married there and it was being broadcast on every single TV channel in the US. On one previous trip, we walked in, turned around and decided we didn’t have enough time to adequately see it given the $25GBP entry fee. This trip we didn’t have a huge amount of time but really wanted to see it, so off we went for a quick tour before our afternoon tea reservation at St. Ermin’s.

Walking from the Tube to St. Paul’s, we explored the lanes along the main road, leading us to historic little parks tucked in between towering office buildings. Seeking a warm public bathroom, we luckily found St. Mary Aldermary, a 17th century Gothic church/cafe, where people and dogs can hang out, enjoy snacks and use the facilities. What a haven! We even stumbled upon a very pink cake shop-Spread the Love with Cake! I can embrace that sentiment wholeheartedly. You never know what you will find off the beaten track!

A cathedral dedicated to St. Paul has stood on it’s current site for over 1,400 years but, as our tour guide (free!) told us, the buildings have changed over the years by various events including the 1666 Great Fire of London. You can use a multimedia audio guide for your walk through or take a guided tour with one of the St. Paul staff-all free. We had a lovely lady who told us the history and stories as we walked through the cathedral. There was a statute of English lexicographer Samuel Johnson, who wrote the first dictionary of the English language published in 1755. It took him seven years to complete the work, often writing at a nearby pub, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, where there is a monument outside the pub honoring Hodge, the cat, Samuel’s beloved pet. Fun facts!

Make sure you take the time to go downstairs to The Crypt where the nation’s heroes are buried and memorialized. Not only are the bathrooms, café and gift shop downstairs but you can also see Christopher Wren’s tomb (he built the cathedral), Florence Nightingale’s memorial, Winston Churchill Memorial Gates (his funeral was held here but he is buried elsewhere) and the Duke of Wellington’s tomb.

Before walking up for a view, consider how many steps you want to take. The Whispering Gallery is 259 steps up. Supposedly you and a friend can whisper to each other at opposite ends facing the wall and your voice will travel around the curved edge and reach each other. We didn’t try it because my knee was acting up. You can arrange in advance assistance if you have disabilities but there is no public elevator.  If you are in better shape than me, you can keep on climbing about 100 more steps up and visit the Stone Gallery, which is the outside area around the dome where you can take some nice photos. If you are really ambitious and physically fit, go all the way to the top and see the Golden Gallery, a total of 528 steps from the cathedral floor. Good views of London landmarks including the Thames but remember you are taking those 500+ steps up and down again.

Opening times may vary so check online before you go:  St Paul’s Cathedral | St Paul’s Cathedral (stpauls.co.uk). When there are services going on, you are not allowed to take pictures on the Cathedral floor. You can attend services at the Cathedral for free. I would recommend taking in an evensong service. We went to one of these services at Westminster Abbey and really enjoyed it. Enjoy the journey!

Victoria & Albert Museum-London

If you want to visit a museum in London where the building itself is a piece of art, then visit the Victoria and Albert Museum aka the V&A. With over 2+ million objects in their permanent collection, those who are interested in applied arts, decorative arts, and design will be delighted. Founded in 1852 and named after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, as with other national British museums, the entrance is FREE though some specific exhibits and events may have a fee. Check online and get tickets in advance for these types of temporary exhibits. This is a “must see” museum when you are in London!

Wear your comfortable shoes because the branch in South Kensington (there are a few small branches other than this one so make sure you go to the main museum) covers 12.5 acres with 145 galleries. Overall, it is one of the largest museums in the world. You won’t be able to cover it in one day so plan on coming back a few times. On our latest trip to London, this was my second visit to the V & A and Thom’s first. On the Girls Trip last year, we focused on the fashion/apparel collections because Patti had an interest in costumes and textiles and the exhibits at the V & A are huge for these areas. This trip, we wandered through the ceramics, glass, ironwork and sculpture galleries.

VISIT THE MAIN CAFÉ FOR AN ELEGANT BREAK

After you have walked a few miles to see the exhibits, take the time to find the Main Café. Opened in 1868, this opulently decorated café reflecting the Victorian era was the world’s first museum café. Grab a seat (turnover is quick, so wait and be speedy to take over a table when a patron leaves). Once you have a member of your party guarding the table, you can take turns going to the various food stations to pick out a salad, sandwich, hot or cold main course, dessert and beverage before taking it to the cashier to pay. Be kind when you are done and bus your own table, taking your dishes to the wait stations around the perimeter.

BEST MUSEUM GIFT SHOP IN LONDON

In my humble opinion, the V & A has the best museum gift shop in London. In addition to offering merchandise for their temporary exhibits, they have a wide selection of goodies for all ages. Their jewelry collection is my main interest because their items are stylish and well-priced. They even carry pieces from one of my favorite Italian designers, Angela Caputi. We are currently in Florence where Angela’s workshop and showroom are located, and you know I went there on our second day here! Now is the time to think not only of yourself but those on your Christmas/birthday lists. Unique and well curated, you can find something for everyone here at the V & A gift shop. Enjoy the journey (and shop)!

National Gallery Museum-London

The National Gallery Museum in London is celebrating its 200th birthday this year, which is yet another great reason to visit London soon (as if you needed a reason). Though I’ve been to London a few times, I’ve never had the time to enjoy this museum, so this trip we made it a priority! Located in Trafalgar Square, I recommend you spend some time walking around the square and soak up the atmosphere outside before entering this magnificent museum. The fountains, the lions, and statues are all great back drops for picture-taking. Climb the museum steps and be ready to walk amongst the vast amounts of art from Monet, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Rubens, Raphael, and so many more. Seriously, there is a whole gallery for just Rembrandts, one of the biggest collections of his art that I’ve seen, and I get around! Of course, Monet is my happy place and they had enough of his art to make me happy including one very large piece. Having been to his home and lily ponds in Giverny several times, I just connect with his calming pieces. We only had a few hours to enjoy the art but look forward to going back next time we are in London!

Having just been to the British Museum where there were no seats to sit and appreciate the exhibits, I was happy to see a variety of benches and even leather chairs spread out through the galleries so you could spend time just sitting and appreciating the art on the walls. The art was all hung from chains off poles near the ceiling, making it probably easier to move pieces and not hurting the walls. Make sure to look up and appreciate the beautiful ceilings and skylights throughout the museum.

We did see lots of tour groups with their guides giving lectures at the various major pieces of art. Because you can’t possibly see all the art on one visit, next time we plan to perhaps take a tour with someone who can bring the art to life with stories. We did try the app Smartify | A World of Art and Culture, Just for You – Smartify and were very impressed. You just scan the art, and it immediately pops us a few paragraphs about the artist and that particular piece. A great collaboration between art and technology. Give it a try next time you visit a museum!

CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT

After you walk miles around the museum, take a rest across the street in the stunning crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields cafe. The original brick-vaulted ceilings and historic tombstones lining the floor provide atmosphere and the food is tasty and well-priced. Check on their website for special events that turn the crypt into a music and cabaret venue.

ENTRY TO MUSEUM

While the museum is free (like most British museums!), we went online the day before at The National Gallery, London to get timed entry tickets, which allowed us even quicker access into the museum. If you don’t have timed tickets, go to the entry on the left of the columns and you’ll probably have to wait in line for a little while. If you have tickets, you can go in the entry to the right without the line. Either way, there is a security check as you get inside.

Unlike the British Museum where maps are free, you have to shell out $2GBP at the National Gallery to get a map but we did because it is useful to find your way around. It’s so big you could get lost! With two floors of galleries, they are grouped into three clusters: 17th, 18th century and Impressionist paintings and Renaissance, Dutch and Flemish paintings and finally medieval paintings. There were several temporary exhibitions that were all free.

GETTING THERE

Definitely a tourist magnet and meeting place, events can be happening at Trafalgar Square that can really be crowded, so check online sites like this one https://www.visitlondon.com/things-to-do/place/283774-trafalgar-square before you go. Be aware that protests also commonly march here to gather and make a statement, especially on the weekends. Proceed cautiously around these large crowds to enter the museum.

The National Gallery is located just steps from the Charing Cross tube station making for an easy commute from wherever you are staying in London. Enjoy the journey!

British Library-London

Libraries are my happy place so when we stumbled upon the British Library after exiting St. Pancreas Tube station, which is one of the most beautiful buildings in London, it was a no brainer to change our day’s previous plans and instead finally take the time to go see it. This national library of the UK is one of the largest libraries in the world with 14+million books and other items dating as far back as 2000 BC. and while you can’t access a large part of it without a resident library card, there are lots of open spaces to relax and literary artifacts to see. Definitely worth a visit!

First up we checked out the Treasures Collection which, of course, is free and chock full of over 200 treasures as the name indicates from Beatles lyrics to the Magna Carta to Leonardo da Vinci drawings to a Gutenberg Bible (the second we’ve seen!). Original music scores, maps, religious manuscripts, autograph letters, diaries, notes and other manuscript material from famous people such as Winston Churchill, Charles Darwin, J.R.R.Tolkien, Alan Turing, Jane Austen, and many others are all beautifully displayed.

In the middle of the building is a six-story glass tower inspired by a similar structure in the Beinecke Library, containing the King’s Library with 65,000 printed volumes along with other pamphlets, manuscripts and maps collected by King George III between 1763 and 1820 (Wikipedia). Picture above is this tower from the outside, but the public is not allowed in there. Darn!

Depending on how much time you have to visit, there are special exhibitions, cafes on every floor, and lots of seating to relax and enjoy the free Wi-Fi. Check it all out here: Visit us in London and Yorkshire | The British Library (bl.uk) All these spaces were busy with students, people having meetings, and eating/drinking. Clean bathrooms are plentiful, including multi-gender ones, and, available on every level. Why is it so hard in the US to find multi-gender bathrooms when they are everywhere here in Europe? The gift shop has lots of fun items including pillow covers, which haven’t been easy to find, so I got a great one with a map of London on it. Enjoy the journey!

 

Shopping in London

If you like to shop, London is calling you! From vintage to designer, there is something for everybody. Even though I have been to London several times, I’m always finding new stores, neighborhoods, markets and towns to explore. On this trip, as in several previous trips, we had to buy an additional suitcase to bring home all our goodies that we found. Since we get free bag check, it’s cheaper than shipping it home. Next trip (to Italy in May!), we are taking a new fold-up bag, so we are prepared to bring home more treasures that we find on our shopping adventures without having to buy new luggage-I’m running out of luggage storage room!

DEPARTMENT STORES

UPSCALE

Harrods | The World’s Leading Luxury Department Store is THE luxury department store in London that you must visit just to check out even if you don’t have the $$$ to buy designer duds. They do have a nice souvenir department in the lower level where you can find reasonable items. Make sure you check out the food hall with so many tasty options. Word of caution-jam/honey/mustard is considered a liquid (anything that spreads!) when you are leaving London and have to go through security, so pack those goodies away in checked bags or you’ll be sad when they confiscate it from your carry-on.

My new favorite store is Fortnum and Mason, a luxury department store with floor after floor of amazing housewares, including their famous picnic hampers and foodie merchandise. Founded in 1707 as a grocery store, the flagship Picadilly store is beautifully decorated, especially during the holidays, and has been a shopping destination for the Royals, as in Queens and such. After our initial shopping trip where we picked up “biscuits” aka cookies, they were so good that we picked up some additional biscuits or as I now call them “bites of heaven” at their outlet in St. Pancras train station. They also have a shop in Terminal 3 at Heathrow, where we picked up cute British cars stuffed with fudge for the grandkids on our way home. Who’s the best NaiNai and GiGi?? Yep, the people who bring back the best souvenirs and tasy treats to share. I particularly love the F & M premium packaging, from curved beautifully decorated boxes filled with dark chocolate biscuits to their tea tins and musical containers. There are gifts for all ages. If you get hungry while you shop (and don’t we all?), they have a fancy tearoom, a food hall with every kind of food, a wine bar and a café serving famous ice cream confections. Cheers!

Thom had never been to Liberty, a luxury department store located in the West End near Carnaby Street, so we had to go on this trip. The façade of this mock-Tudor building with its ages old timbers is absolutely beautiful and the inside doesn’t disappoint either with wood floors and an atrium that is always spectacularly decorated for the holidays. This merchant is known for its fabrics, housewares and fashion. Founded in 1875, Liberty supports new and emerging designers within its historic walls.

After wandering around Liberty, we headed over to Carnaby Street which is filled with specialty shops like Levi’s which we didn’t need to shop at, but I did visit Doc Martens, a British classic. Thom has a pair of these, purchased after he saw Bruce Springsteen wearing them at a concert (of course, right?), and I have always wanted a pair, so I finally decided to just go for it. YOLO and all. It helped that they had a really cool limited-edition Year of the Dragon tassel loafer style that I can’t wait to wear. Unfortunately, we took public transportation everywhere in London and you do NOT want to wear nice shoes on the Tube. On one Tube trip, a guy was asleep and had a latte on the floor precariously wedged between his feet and it eventually tipped over after a hard stop and spilled all over Thom’s shoes. Thom was just glad it wasn’t vomit but that experience convinced me that the Tube is not the best place for my beautiful new Docs.

REGULAR FOLK DEPARTMENT STORES

Your everyday Londoner does not shop at the fancy department stores like Harrod’s or, if they do, they are rich. Popular go-to places to get clothes for most people are Primark and Marks and Spencer. There are many locations of these stores all over town. Have fun buying reasonably priced outfits and accessories to take home.

SPECIALTY STORES

VINYL

Vinyl lovers should bring an empty suitcase in London. You could spend a week visiting all the vinyl stores located all over London. Check out this good list: 56 Best Record Stores in London by Neighborhood | Discogs – Record Stores.

On this trip, we checked out Third Man Records, which is musician Jack White’s cool space in Soho. “Mind your head” is not just a sign but a caution as the entry to the basement section of this shop has a very low doorway that unfortunately Thom had hard contact with resulting in a big bump on his head. Not only do they have vinyl but a nice assortment of merch and a book machine plus a jam (for playing music not eating a delightful spread for toast) area.

Every 1st and 3rd Friday of the month, go to the Vinyl Market (oldspitalfieldsmarket.com) to find some good bargains. On my last Girls Trip to London, I was able to find Thom a Bruce Springsteen concert bootleg album that seemed pretty rare. Score!

BOOKSTORES

The Hatchards Bookstore in Piccadilly was founded in 1797 and is London’s oldest bookshop and bookseller to the Royal households. When you sell merch to the Royals, a store gets to display a sign on the outside of their store that is a Royal Warrant. Hatchards has three Royal Warrants. They have lots of stores but the five-story location in Picadilly is the one to visit-it is beautiful and located next to Fortnum and Mason, one of my other favorite stores. It is also opposite the Royal Academy, which is worth a visit to see their museum (and a good place to use the bathrooms!).

Check the Hatchards online site for book signings. They also have in their assortment first and special edition books for the collectors. A book is always a good idea for yourself or to take home for a present.

OPTICAL STORES

MOSCOT Beak Street Shop in the Soho district has a fantastic assortment of frames to pick from. Thom and I both have sported Moscot frames in the past and they not only look great but are super well-made and comfortable. Buying frames wherever we travel is one of my favorite souvenirs. I take the frames home to my local Costco optical and get my prescription lenses put in. Every time I wear my new glasses, I remember my vacation!

On this trip, we discovered a new brand of frames that have lots of fashion styles to pick from at reasonable (about $150 GBP) prices. Buy Eyeglasses | Designer Eyeglasses For Men & Women – Jimmy Fairly (UK) has locations all over London and the suburbs like Hampstead. I love that they have an espresso machine in their stores and offer shots as you shop. Get all caffeinated up and buy some frames to take home!

MUSEUM GIFT SHOPS

I have to call out museum gift shops because I have gotten some of my favorite gifts there to take back home. Usually well priced, every museum in London has at least one if not multiple gift shops with everything from pillow covers (British Library) to Winston Churchill rubber duckies (Churchill Rooms) to booze (all of them have hard liquor including Buckingham Palace, which had an unusually large selection of sloe gin-why?). So, make sure you take time to check out the merch at the museums!

STREETS/NEIGHBORHOODS

Regent Street London – Shopping – Dining – Wellness (regentstreetonline.com) is a major shopping street in the West End of London. It runs from Waterloo place at the south end through Picadilly Circus and Oxford Circus to All Souls Church. Retailers who can afford this pricey real estate have their London flagship stores here. Check out technology at the Apple Store or the Microsoft Experience Center and then shop for fashion at practically every retailer you could want.

MARKETS

There are so many cool markets in London that you can’t possibly visit them all in one trip so every time we come, we try to at least go to one or two. On this trip, we made it to Covent Garden and Spitalfield’s. Come to these markets hungry and ready to shop. Enjoy the journey!

Buckingham Palace-London

I’ve walked by the iconic Buckingham Palace on previous trips to London and admired it from the front gate. On this trip, however, we finally found time to actually spend time inside checking out the official London residence for the ruling monarch. This is a working palace and the State Rooms you get to see on the guided tour are used for the official and ceremonial duties carried out by the King. Will you see any royalty? You never know! Our guide Mandy showed us how to bow and curtsey just in case any royalty wandered by us. So, while you may not see them in the flesh, you will definitely see royalty gracing the walls in painting after painting beginning with the Grand Entrance to the Grand Hall. Was it truly “grand”? Yes, it does make quite an impression. You’ll have to take my word for it because the guides were very strict on the “no picture taking” rule-not even Thom wanted to run afoul of them, so there were no sneaky picture taking at all, showing incredible restraint on his part. Enjoy the journey (but DO NOT take pictures of it!)

Our private guided tour took us through the State Rooms. I booked the tour online at Visit Buckingham Palace (rct.uk) as soon as it became available, as they sell out fast. With gold on literally everything, the décor reminded me of Versailles. We had one main guide who did all the storytelling, and she was very entertaining, bringing to life the history of the royals plus background on the furnishings including the chandeliers, clocks, and more facts than I could ever remember but our tour included a complimentary guide booklet that I can read and use to refresh my memory on all the royal lineage as it is quite complicated. Lots of marriages, births, deaths, etc. to follow in the royal family tree.

After a few rooms, the guide encouraged us to sit on the plush carpets if we needed to take a rest. If you wanted to be more civilized, the other two guides who were there to help had a few folding seats we could use. But how often do you get to cop a squat on the palace carpets? So down I went to lounge on the floor of the Palance and listen to the guide tell us all about the paintings in the Picture Gallery. There was a small (probably 4-year-old) child in our group that kept his mother and the guides on their toes as he was fast, and hell bent on waving an ink pen around priceless paintings, furniture and carpets, not to mention the porcelains perched precariously on display pillars in almost every room. Surely, there have been issues in the past with damage by tourists but, luckily not on our tour, though when the harried mom and child exited the group early, all the guides sighed with relief.

The State Rooms are generally named by color-Blue Room, Green Room, Yellow Room, White Drawing Room and so on. In all, there are 775 rooms according to my handy guidebook, including 19 State Rooms, 52 royal and guest bedrooms, 92 offices and 78 bathrooms. There are hundreds of staff keeping this whole palace clean and ready for tourists and the royalty. High maintenance to say the least!

In the Throne Room, guess what? You see the official thrones used by King Charles and his consort. You do not get to sit on the thrones for pictures nor do you get to stand on the front palace balcony that is famous for photos taken at major events when the whole royal party crowds on it to wave to their adoring subjects. No tourists sullying these icon royal-only places.

It is fun to watch some YouTube videos and see the late Queen and now King Charles visiting, knighting famous people, and partying in the rooms that we visited. I enjoyed hearing about the annual holiday party where the palace staff gets to mingle with the King and Queen. Mandy shared that she was watching the doors carefully to be ready when the King arrived only to have him walk right up to her after creeping in through a secret panel door behind the floor to ceiling window-how cheeky of him. Enjoy the journey!

TIPS

  • Travel tip-wear comfy shoes as you will walk A LOT. The palace is not a small place and there is no sitting except for one brief stop in the ballroom and squatting on the carpets.
  • There was a cloakroom for the tour participants where you could check your coat and packages. You don’t want to get overheated, so check it!

THE RULES

  • You must arrive 30 minutes before the time of your tour. If you’re late, you may not be admitted.
  • The entrance is at The Queen’s Gallery. We were in the area the day before our tour and found the entrance, which is on the left-hand side of the palace as you face it. It is a little hard to find, so check it out prior to your visit so you are not late for your tour.
  • There is no photography or filming. Our guide asked us to turn off our phones before we started so we wouldn’t be tempted. If they catch you disobeying the rules, we warned there would be consequences.
  • Our tour was not accessible for anyone with disabilities. You have to book a special tour if you require step-free acess.
  • If you book tickets and end up needing to cancel like we did, you can get a full refund! I had forgotten how bad the jet lag can be, so I scheduled a morning tour on the weekend after we arrived, and we just weren’t up for it, so I called the morning of the tour as soon as they opened at 9 am and talked to a nice person who processed a full refund to my credit card. I then rebooked a few weeks into the trip when we had more energy. You have to call +44 (0) 303 123 7300 and talk to a real person to get a refund-none of this doing it online!

London-Tap to Pay Tips

Technology is deeply integrated in any visit to London so be prepared to “tap to pay” and even “tap to pee”! Need to ride the Tube to get anywhere? Tap to pay. Need to go to the loo? Tap to pee. Going through Customs? Scan your passport. At a museum? Scan the QR code to hear about the exhibit or tap to donate to the museums. After a trip to London, you will go to other countries and wander why they aren’t as technically savvy as London. How to make a trip to London go smoothly? Follow these tips!

There are various ways to “tap” to pay. You can tap your credit card if it has a chip. You can tap your phone if it has Google Pay or Apple Pay. If you don’t have either of these methods, for public transportation, you can get an Oyster Card to do the “tap to pay”. Purchase the Oyster Card at one of the service desks at the major train/Tube stations and add money (called “topping off”) as you go in order to ride the Tube or buses. But the easiest and safest way to tap all over town is to use your Smart watch for all tapping. It eliminates getting out your credit card/phone every time and risking theft or misplacing it. Use a VISA for your payment because AMEX sometimes isn’t accepted. We used all these methods as sometimes Thom had some issues with his watch, credit card and phone not working so he relied on the Oyster Card when that happened. Be prepared! You don’t want your companion to be able to go through the turnstile at the Tube and you are left behind not being able to tap in to be with them.

As you enter the front door of the bus or go up to the turnstile in the Tube, hold your payment type (Smart watch, credit card, Oyster card or phone) about an inch away and you should see the light go from yellow to green. If it goes red, it means it isn’t working, which is not to say that it won’t work if you try it again. Wait a second or two and try again, perhaps at another turnstile. We had this happen numerous times and sometimes on the fourth try, it would go “green”. On the bus, if tapping is wonky, the driver will sometimes just wave you in to sit because you are delaying the forward motion of the bus. Remember, you must tap in for the Tube and tap out as well. For the bus, you just have to tap in.

Public bathrooms do exist in London and the nicest facilities that are staffed with an attendant, aka not the street latrines that I avoid at all costs, do cost money. The tech savvy bathrooms have a “tap to pee” model where you tap to get access into the bathrooms. The one I used in Covent Garden market was $1.50 euros and well worth it because it was warm and clean. You may find some bathrooms haven’t been updated yet and require a $1 euro coin to enter so have some of those handy if you visit London.

I appreciate how quick the Custom lines are at Heathrow even with the crush of people moving through this airport. You just scan your passport page and off you go! No waiting in lines to talk to a live person and get a stamp. I have had to wait hours before going through Customs (India, I’m looking at you!) so my sincere hope is that all countries embrace the UK technology and gets with the program. Automate now and save us all some time. Enjoy the journey!

Churchill War Rooms-London

Although I would not consider myself a war buff, in advance of our London trip, I read Erik Larson’s book, “The Splendid and the Vile”. It was a fascinating read to prepare me to visit Churchill War Rooms. This nonfiction book by Erik Larson is based on diaries, first person accounts, military records, etc. that chronicle how Winston Churchill led Britain through WWII to ultimate victory. Visiting this unique “frozen in time” museum is a great addition to any visit to London.

Housing the incredibly well-preserved underground bunker, which served as the control center where the British government ran their war efforts in WWII, you will learn what it was like to live and work beneath the streets of London for months while bombs shook the walls. They won the war, walked away from the war rooms and left everything “as is” to this day. So not only will you learn all about the character and actions of Churchill himself but what it was like for those that worked for him and worked, ate, and slept in the bunker.

Upon entering the underground space at Churchill War Rooms at your designated ticket time (purchase online prior to arriving), the entry fee will get you the audio tour, that will allow you to punch in the #’s on exhibits throughout the space to learn more. In addition to the audio tour, there are stations throughout the museum with videos to watch. I would recommend at least two hours to take it all in for a complete experience.

It is truly fascinating to see how a war was run prior to the internet and technology. No drones, no computers, no cell phones. Just a few rotary phones including the “hot” line from Churchill to President Roosevelt asking for US assistance, which was vital to defeating Hitler’s forces. The map room illustrates the low-tech way that the British tracked their forces on land and sea with pushpins on wall maps. You also get to see Churchill’s pink velour onesie (see pic below) that he liked to wear-what a fashionista he was! His collection of hats is also part of the museum.

VISIT INFO

While most government-run museums like the British Museum are free in London, this museum is 32 euros (under 5 free) and I felt it was worth the expense. Check out the awesome gift shop on your way out. Of course, they sell liquor as all museums do in the UK plus lots of tea and tea-themed merch. “Where there is tea, there is hope.” It was the tea apparently that got them through the war, probably heavily laced with liquor. For the kids or yourself, the Churchill duckie with a cigar is a unique souvenir. We collect rubber ducks for the grandkids and, trust me, this is a great addition to the collection! We already have a Queen Elizabeth duck from our last trip so they can play together.

Situated next to the lovely St. James Park and close to other key attractions like Parliament and Big Ben, plan a whole day in this area of London. Enjoy the journey!