In between various medical issues I have had to face in 2026, in April we were able to visit the wild ponies in Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, something I had longed to do since we moved to the East Coast last year. What a joy it was to get back to travelling, immerse myself in nature, and not worry about anything other than where we would find the ponies! While it was only a 3-hour car ride, it seemed like a world away from Baltimore. And the beautiful horses we saw were well worth the trip!

We chose to stay in Chincoteague, a charming oceanside Virginia town close to the ponies. When I started to research our trip, I discovered that NASA launches rockets from the nearby Wallops Flight Facility. Who knew? Besides the ponies and NASA, it’s a lovely little town with lots of family friendly things to do. On our way driving out to check out the island refuge, we passed a water park and several miniature golf courses. There is a place to rent bikes as you enter the refuge, and we saw several families riding along having a great time. Combine that with multiple ice cream stands and you have a kid’s paradise. Thinking this would be a great place to bring the grandkids for a fun weekend now that we have the lay of the land and know what to do!

HISTORY OF THE PONIES

How did the ponies get there? Well, my research showed that the ponies have inhabited the area for centuries, legendarily coming from Spanish galleon survivors. Now a National Wildlife Refuge, the island is home to the wild ponies, who roam all over the island and are admired by tourists in their national habitat. A 1947 children’s book called Misty of Chincoteague helped to make the island famous. Currently, there are 80-100 horses running around. Touching, feeding or enticing horses is illegal, and you can be fined. They are wild and tourists have been hurt if they don’t follow park guidelines. Look but don’t touch!

Things to do besides gazing at the pretty horses:

• Assateaque lighthouse. Walk to the base of the Assateague Lighthouse, a striking 142-foot red-and-white tower built in 1867. If it’s a Friday or Saturday, climb to the top for panoramic views of the island, ocean, and marshes. Open weekends only April to November. We walked up a short trail from the parking lot to see the outside and take in the view. Well worth it!
• Beach time! Drive on past the ponies in the marshes and go out to the lovely beach to take a walk. A storm was rolling in when we visited and just north of us they was a huge waterspout sighted. Glad it missed us!
• NASA Wallops Flight Facility Visitor Center — Free admission, interactive exhibits about rockets and space science. Just 10 minutes from Chincoteague. NASA launches rockets from here. The Visitor Center was closed when we visited but we would consider going back just to see a rocket launch up close and personal.
• Museum of Chincoteague Island — Home to the taxidermized Misty (from Marguerite Henry’s beloved novel Misty of Chincoteague), a first-order Fresnel lens from the lighthouse, maritime artifacts, and exhibits spanning island history from fossils to the present. Adults $8, kids free. It was closed when we were there (off season!) but sounds cool.
• Beebe Ranch — Connected to the museum, open June 30–October. See living Chincoteague ponies descended from the famous Misty bloodline. Separate admission ($8).
• Downtown Chincoteague — Stroll through the island’s charming Main Street. Browse local shops, art galleries, and boutiques. It was off season when we visited so many places weren’t open yet but from May-October, you could expect the town to be lively.

WHERE TO STAY

I’m a Marriott Bonvoy loyalist so we stayed on points at Fairfield Inn & Suites Chincoteague Island Waterfront | Comfortable Hotel with Free Breakfast. Right on the water in the middle of the charming town of Chincoteague (pictures above from our room), we could walk to restaurants and along the waterfront. Very affordable rates in the off season averaging under $200 a night. They upgraded us to a suite overlooking the water. This is why I love Marriott!

There are oceanfront camp sites on Assateague Island. If you don’t mind sand, this would an economical way to stay. I’m not a camping person but I imagine the night star gazing would be phenomenal. More info here: https://www.nps.gov/asis/planyourvisit/marylandcamping.htm

WHERE TO EAT IN CHINCOTEAGUE

BREAKFAST

• Amarin Coffee USA — A beloved island coffee spot with outstanding pastries. After our very cold boat excursion to see the ponies on the beach, we stopped by and warmed up with coffee. I also had the cream cheese everything round croissant-that’s a mouthful but it was insanely good. Seriously, I would consider driving 3 hours just to get this pastry again!
• Sandy Pony Donuts — Freshly made donuts, a Chincoteague institution. Worth the line.

LUNCH

• Pico Taqueria — Fresh, authentic tacos with creative fillings. A local favorite with 4.6 stars on TripAdvisor.
• Captain Zack’s Seafood — Fried oysters, blackened fish tacos, and fresh catch served in a beachy, casual setting. We went in to check it out for dinner, but it was packed and they only had stools to sit on, so we opted to go somewhere else.

DINNER

• Bill’s PRIME Seafood & Steaks — Upscale dining, top-rated on the island. Make reservations! We showed up on a Monday night in the off season and it was packed. Thom had their crab stuffed shrimp, and I enjoyed their grilled flounder. Served with warm bread, it was a delicious dinner.
• Channel Bass Inn Restaurant — French-American fine dining. The beef tenderloin is recommended.
• The Village Restaurant — Family-friendly waterfront seafood with lovely bay views. The coconut shrimp is a favorite.
• AJ’s on the Creek — Waterfront dining at its finest.

SWEETS

• Island Creamery — Arguably the best ice cream on the entire Eastern Shore. Flavors rotate seasonally, and the line is part of the charm. Don’t skip this.

GETTING AROUND

KEY INFORMATION

Resources	Details
Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge	Hours: May–Sep 5 AM–10 PM; Apr & Oct 6 AM–8 PM; Nov–Mar 6 AM–6 PM. Phone: (757) 336-6122
Assateague Island National Seashore (NPS)	Visitor centers, maps, and beach information https://www.nps.gov/asis/index.htm
NPS Trail & Park Maps	Downloadable trail maps for the Virginia District
Refuge Trail Map	Wildlife Loop, Woodland Trail, Lighthouse Trail, Swan Cove Trail, Black Duck Trail, Marsh Trail, Bivalve Trail, and Service Road
Museum of Chincoteague Island	7125 Maddox Blvd. Phone: (757) 336-6117. Peak season (May 26–Oct 25): Tue–Sat 10 AM–4 PM. Adults $8, kids free.
Assateague Lighthouse	Open Fri & Sat, 10 AM–4 PM (last climb 3:30 PM), late May–late August. Free admission; donations welcome.
Assateague Island Alliance — Current Herd	Track the wild ponies — names, photos, and herd locations
Chincoteague Homepage-The official travel guide for Chincoteague – Chincoteague	The Chincoteague Visitors Center is located at 6733 Maddox Boulevard, Chincoteague Island, Virginia 23336. You can contact them at 757-336-6161 for more information.

🐴 Pony-Viewing Guide — Where & When to Find the Wild Herds

Chincoteague’s famous wild ponies roam freely on Assateague Island. Whether you drive, bike or hike around the island, take a boat trip or kayak, you will surely enjoy this protected natural area.

Here’s how to maximize your chances of seeing them:

Viewing Method	Details
Southern Herd (~50 ponies)	Visible from Beach Road (Maddox Blvd) on the right side along the final straightaway before the beach. Best viewed by car or bike — look for ponies grazing in the open marsh.
Northern Herd (~100 ponies)	Accessible via the Service Road off the Wildlife Loop. 7.5 miles one way — best by bike or long hike. This herd is larger but more remote.
Wildlife Loop	3.2-mile paved loop. Open to pedestrians and cyclists all day; vehicles allowed 3 PM to dusk. Excellent for ponies, shorebirds, bald eagles, and deer.
By Boat	Local boat tours cruise the remote coastlines for close-up pony and wildlife sightings — often the best way to see them in their wildest setting.
Best Viewing Windows	Early morning (just after the refuge opens) and late afternoon/sunset. Ponies are more active and visible during the cooler parts of the day.

Early Pony Scouting

Arrive early and drive Beach Road (Maddox Blvd) toward the refuge. As you near the beach, scan the right side of the road for the southern herd — you may spot ponies grazing quietly in the dawn mist before most visitors have arrived.

Explore the Refuge on Foot & by Bike

The Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge offers some of the most peaceful trails on the East Coast. Spend the afternoon wandering at your own pace:

• Woodland Trail (1.6 miles, paved, easy) — A shaded forest walk through loblolly pines. Look for the Pony Overlook along this trail for elevated marsh views.
• Swan Cove Trail (0.5 miles, paved) — A peaceful loop near the water, perfect for quiet reflection.
• Black Duck Trail (1 mile, paved) — Excellent for birding and serene nature viewing.
• Wildlife Loop — At 3:00 PM, the 3.2-mile paved loop opens to vehicles. Drive or bike it slowly, watching for ponies, shorebirds, bald eagles, and white-tailed deer. This is a highlight of any visit.

Download trail maps in advance from the NPS Maps page or view the full Refuge Trail Map.

Boat Tour & Water Adventures

A boat tour is one of the best ways to experience Chincoteague — you’ll see ponies, dolphins, and birdlife from angles you simply can’t reach on foot. Book a morning tour for the best wildlife activity either directly with the boat company or through Get Your Guide. We booked this tour: From Chincoteague Island: Assateague Island Boat Tour | GetYourGuide which was 1.5 hours and left from the docks close to our hotel, so it was very convenient. In addition to pulling up the boat to the beach to see the wild ponies, we saw a fox, an eagle and lots of noisy dolphins on our boat tour.

Tour Companies	Details
Snug Harbor Marina	The longest-running tour company on the island. Captain John’s family were original settlers. Private and group tours available. Phone: (757) 894-9822
Up The Bay Pony Tours	Luxury tritoon boat. Private tours ($350) and public tours ($75/person), 2 hours. TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice Award. Phone: (757) 894-6389
Riptide Pony Tours	Local family-owned, pet-friendly. Scenic tours, sunset cruises, and waterman tours. $55/person. Phone: (757) 694-7926
Assateague Tours	Boat and kayak tours to remote refuge areas — perfect for paddlers and adventurers. Phone: (757) 894-2431

Practical Tips

Topic	Details
Refuge Entrance Fee	$20/vehicle (7-day pass) or use an America the Beautiful Annual Pass. Purchase at the refuge entrance.
Biking	Highly recommended for the Wildlife Loop and refuge trails. Several rental shops are available on the island — ask your hotel for the nearest option.
Bug Spray	Essential May through September. Mosquitoes and biting flies (greenheads) are common, especially near the marsh. Bring DEET or Picaridin-based repellent. Watch out for ticks!
Tides & Weather	Check NOAA forecasts before heading out. Beach conditions can change quickly on barrier islands. Rip currents are possible at Toms Cove.
Cell Service	Spotty in some areas of the refuge. Download trail maps in advance from the NPS Maps page.
Driving from Baltimore	~3 hours. Take US-50 E across the Bay Bridge, then US-13 S through the Eastern Shore, then VA-175 E directly onto Chincoteague Island.

ENJOY THE JOURNEY!