Saigon Street Scene

We went to Hanoi earlier in the year over Chinese New Year and did the city scene and a cruise on Halong Bay.  Now, we are checking out Saigon on a long Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival weekend. Not only is it extremely inexpensive by most standards for hotel, food, etc. but very easy for English speakers. We love it!

Vietnam kitchens are on sidewalks, eating on tiny plastic stools and tables
Vietnam kitchens are on sidewalks, eating on tiny plastic stools and tables
Sleeping away the morning in a hammock on the streets of Saigon
Sleeping away the morning in a hammock on the streets of Saigon

We enjoy getting lost and exploring the culture in Saigon.  Around every corner, you never know what to expect so we try to just wander a new street every time we go out.

This morning we saw people squatting on their little plastic stools that are everywhere here on the sidewalks around teeny tiny tables, enjoying their Pho for breakfast.  Everything is done on the sidewalks here-eating, shopping, sleeping, gambling–you name it.  The apartments are probably very small and without full kitchens so most meals are eaten with friends and family at these sidewalk kitchens.  Fruit is sold everywhere with the favored form of transportation big baskets balanced with a pole over the shoulders of sturdy women working hard to sell peaches, oranges, coconuts, etc.  I saw one woman today cooking waffles on a small burner on one side of her basket with the finished product in the basket on the other side of the pole.  Crazy!

Balancing act-green oranges in large baskets on a pole that she will wear across her shoulders as she walks and sells her fruit
Balancing act-green oranges in large baskets on a pole that she will wear across her shoulders as she walks and sells her fruit

While Thom takes much better pictures than me with his super cool camera, I have enjoyed capturing the uniquely Vietnam street scenes with my Nokia phone camera which shoots great pics and videos.  As the rain once again pours down in the afternoon,  a daily occurrence, Thom and I are listening to top 40 hits at the Coffee Bean and enjoying our coffees while we wait out the rain.

Waiting out the storm at the Coffee Bean in Saigon
Waiting out the storm at the Coffee Bean in Saigon

Coffee shops are EVERYWHERE.  While Starbucks doesn’t dominate on every street corner, there are Costa, Coffee Bean, etc. as well as the local Vietnam chains.  For a tropical climate, the coffee culture is strong here.  I’m guessing the balance of sales is heavy on iced coffee products but it also looks like espresso is huge.  Sitting here enjoying our Americano, we could be in NYC or Seattle but the minutes we step outside and are assaulted with the scooter traffic and people living their lives on the sidewalks, we know we are in Asia.

Men with Machine Guns=No Pictures..usually

“Stop asking people with machine guns if you can take their picture.  That’s just stupid.”.  After Thom tried to rationalize his behavior while sharing our adventures in Saigon with our son James, he was having none of it and proceeded to lecture his dad sternly via Skype.  Someone’s got to be the adult and that is obviously James not Thom.

Uzi needed to guard the Finance Bldg in Saigon
Uzi needed to guard the Finance Bldg in Saigon

So, lots of people ask what our kids think about us living in China and having crazy adventures.  When it first came up, my daughter was none too thrilled about China preferring I get a spot in London or anywhere else where she might want to visit.  That wasn’t an option so China it was and she was very supportive though will probably never visit while we are here as she is very busy with being a wife and new Mom to Mia.  We miss her terribly.

James is still in college so he has more flexibility to visit us on school breaks and was receptive to spending time in China.  So he has been able to spend months with us in China over the school holidays and explore with us, though he doesn’t find randomly walking the streets to be much fun like we do.  He likes to travel with a purpose and preferably in cooler weather like Seattle where he goes to school and always plans his days with food in mind.  Boy, do 21 year old boys like to eat–all the time!  His favorite activities with us were tobogganing down the Great Wall, sea kayaking in Hong Kong but mostly eating chicken pot pies delivered to our door in Shanghai by an expat online Pie Shop.  James declared them DELICIOUS-high praise indeed though I strongly believe there is no such thing as bad pie (or wine for that matter) but I’m not so picky.

Today, as we shared our fun times in Vietnam, James scolded Thom for his risk taking.  “You could get killed or arrested.  Stop it!”.  Like Thom will stop behaving badly-NOT!  In the never ending pursuit of cool photos, Thom had seen a building in Saigon and wanted to take a picture of it.  Of course, seeing the armed military guard caressing an Uzi machine gun didn’t stop him even after the guard pursued him and told him, “No pictures.”. Most rational people would apologize quickly and walk away even faster.  But, nooooooo, not Thom-he smiled and asked the guard if he could take HIS picture and asked about the building’s purpose. It was a government Finance Building and, no, the guard didn’t want his picture taken.  You think he wants to end up on Facebook or Twitter??  Hell No!!!  Of course, Thom got his shot and it will soon be all over social media.  Oops!

They do like to protect their government buildings in Saigon.  We ended up behind a chain link rope around one building somehow and when we needed to exit to cross the street, unfortunately we found ourselves having to jump over the chain but now it had barbed wire wound through it.  Now, I’m in a skirt and trying not to impale myself on this as I slowly executed a maneuver to get over it.  Yikes!  I think I flashed the traffic passing by but a girl’s got to do what a girl’s got to do to keep on having adventures.  This is also why we now carry a first aid kid with us at all times.  Be prepared is our motto-the worst can and will happen in a foreign country, which makes for good memories and interesting stories to share.  Back to Shanghai tomorrow!

Thom doing what he does so well
Thom doing what he does so well

Scooters Rule in Saigon

Scooters rule-they even have their own traffic signal and lanes
Scooters rule-they even have their own traffic signal and lanes

Scooters rule here in Vietnam.  Everywhere and always–they serve as the family mini-van and commuter car.  I have seen families of five on one small scooter.  Helmets required here which is cool to see after the helmet-optional China scene.  I see more air masks on most riders too than in China, though the air pollution is far less.  Ladies ride side saddle, dressed to the nines with their sparkly high heels and crossed legs perfectly comfortable and toddlers hold on for dear life between their parents legs, standing up on the floorboard by the handles.  This is life in Vietnam.

Vietnam's version of the mini van--scooter for 4!
Vietnam’s version of the mini van–scooter for 4!

At least scooters have their own traffic signals and designated lanes on most streets.  You don’t see the luxury cars here that you would in China.  It’s mostly taxi’s and scooters.  Not even really bikes-just a few “seasoned” folks riding old school.  When it poured in a torrential thunderstorm yesterday with high winds, the scooters went into hiding until the weather calmed and then they flooded the streets to resume their commute.  They sell special scooter rider poncho’s everywhere–hood, extended arms and headlight coverage as well.  Still, those poor riders had to be soaked to the bone yesterday with the waves of water coming down so heavy.

Today the weather dawned clear so as Thom and I checked out the boardwalk by the Saigon River, I shot this video–at 7:30 a.m. on a Sunday when we thought the streets would be deserted, making the crossing across the wide boulevard by the river much easier.  We went by there yesterday and didn’t even attempt it.  NOPE!  The scooters were out in full force early so we had to be super nimble and scoot our asses across the street dodging the masses.  That’ll wake you up!  I don’t advise most people to try this–last night we saw our doormen escorting some tourists across a small street by the hotel to keep them alive. Not for the fainthearted! 

She Works Hard For Her Money

Even in China, you can find “organic” fruit being touted, though Thom and I know it probably comes from the same field by the highway just like all fruit.  That being said, we really can’t see paying 3x the price for the organic label so, after trying it both ways, we went back to buying from our local fruit lady in our neighborhood.

Every day, from morning to late at night, she sits on the corner by our apartment selling fruit out of the back of her van.  Assisted by probably family, they weigh the produce and bargain with you on the price, sometimes throwing in an extra banana or two if they overcharge.  When Thom buys, this is always what happens because he hates to bargain.

James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady
James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady

The fruit tastes delicious and, if it is raised in contaminated soil with the aid of polluted water then so be it.  As Fiona, our language teacher has taught us, “In China you can die fast or you can die slow-you pick.”. If the fruit doesn’t kill us, all the carbs we eat will so it’s time to enjoy a juicy peach and throw caution to the wind.

Our fruit lady was anxious to know if James was our son.  She pointed to him and then to us with a big smile.  Yes-we were blessed with a son, which always goes over big here.  Of course, we have a gorgeous daughter as well but here in China, the message is always clear-boys are special and men are in charge.

When we were at Tai Chi, after class we lingered to chat with the fellow participants.  The ladies were off talking while Thom and I talked to the guys.  They immediately turned to Thom and asked what he did for a living.  Smiling his huge grin, Thom loves to tell people, “I follow her and support her” pointing to me. The dudes let that sink in and then their eyes turned to me.  “What do YOU do?”. I don’t believe I’ve ever had a man or woman turn to me FIRST when I’m with Thom to ask why we had moved to China.  They ALWAYS assume it is for Thom’s career.  Just a cultural thing that I’ve gotten used to here.

Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom
Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom

My fruit lady is also in charge at her job and works so hard to sell her produce but always has a smile on her face.  She’s an excellent business woman who understands customer service and that the little things matter like the extra banana thrown in the bag for regular customers or that offering a sample of the grapes will yield larger sales.  Kudos to you, my dear!  You work hard for your money and deserve every RMB you get from Thom–I’m actually okay that he doesn’t bargain with you.  I’m sticking with you for my fruit, even if it kills me.

The Mooncakes are Here! The Mooncakes are here!

Mooncakes are EVERYWHERE.  Somehow the main celebration for the MId-Autumn Festival this weekend in China is centered on a not-so-tasty pastry.  The hell with the mooncakes!!!  Thom and I have decided to celebrate this holiday by going to Vietnam instead of eating pasty carbs but, hey, we’re rebels.  What can I say-Ho Chi MInh City, baby, here we come!

Mooncake stamped with rabbit imprint to signify the moon
Mooncake stamped with rabbit imprint to signify the moon

But back to mooncakes–the front page of the Shanghai Daily featured a huge picture of long lines of people lined up outside waiting to buy popular mooncakes at a bakery.  Monday, I got my first mooncake gift from a co-worker.  The beautiful tin box featured a rabbit motif.  After I consulted Wiki, I know understand that rabbits represent the moon so that makes more sense.  I cut open the really heavy small cake (4 to a box and they weigh a ton!) and saw the inner burst of color.  I tasted that part first but it was really flavorless–Wiki says it is probably an egg yolk, maybe duck egg, symbolizing the full moon.

Our mooncake tasting with egg yolk in middle surrounded by lotus bean paste
Our mooncake tasting with egg yolk in middle surrounded by lotus bean paste

Thom, James and I all participated in mooncake tasting together.  Since each cake has 1,000 calories, I’m glad I only had one bite or I’d be at the gym all week working off the damn mooncake flab.  It tasted like mild peanut butter but maybe that is what lotus seed paste tastes like.  I have nothing to compare it to yet.  I do know that despite complaints that mooncake sales are down dramatically due to controls on government bribes, the lines are still pretty long at all bakeries so I’m not sure that strategy is working for them.  Even Starbucks sells them–always in gift boxes as they are presents to bestow on people you want to gain weight quickly.

So, happy Mid-Autumn Festival everyone.  Lots of stories to come this weekend from Vietnam.  Scooters galore!

More mooncake info than anyone needs or wants to know, according to Wiki:

Mooncake (simplified Chinese: 月饼; traditional Chinese: 月餅; pinyin: yuè bĭng) is a Chinese bakery product traditionally eaten during the Mid-Autumn Festival (Zhongqiujie). The festival is for lunar worship and moon watching, when mooncakes are regarded as an indispensable delicacy. Mooncakes are offered between friends or on family gatherings while celebrating the festival. The Mid-Autumn Festival is one of the four most important Chinese festivals.

Typical mooncakes are round pastries, measuring about 10 cm in diameter and 3–4 cm thick. This is the Cantonese mooncake, eaten in Southern China in Guangdong, Hong Kong, and Macau. A rich thick filling usually made from red bean or lotus seed paste is surrounded by a thin (2–3 mm) crust and may contain yolks from salted duck eggs. Mooncakes are usually eaten in small wedges accompanied by Chinese tea. Today, it is customary for businessmen and families to present them to their clients or relatives as presents,[1] helping to fuel a demand for high-end mooncake styles. The energy content of a mooncake is approximately 1,000 calories or 4,200 kilojoules (for a cake measuring 10 cm (3.9 in)), but energy content varies with filling and size.[2]

 Most mooncakes consist of a thin, tender pastry skin enveloping a sweet, dense filling, and may contain one or more whole salted egg yolks in their center as the symbol of the full moon. Very rarely, mooncakes are also served steamed or fried.

Traditional mooncakes have an imprint on top consisting of the Chinese characters for “longevity” or “harmony”, as well as the name of the bakery and the filling inside. Imprints of the moon, the Lady Chang’e on the moon, flowers, vines, or a rabbit (symbol of the moon) may surround the characters for additional decoration.

Mooncakes are considered a delicacy as production is labor-intensive and few people make them at home. Hence, most prefer to buy them from commercial outlets, which may range from smaller individual bakery shops to high-end restaurants. The price of mooncakes usually ranges from US$10 to US$50 for a box of four, although cheaper and more expensive mooncakes can also be found.[original research?]

You won’t believe this story!!!

So, I have written before about flying within China on local airlines and how scary it is but as I read the article in the Shanghai Daily today, I was once again shocked at the lack of safety and common sense.  Holy. Hell.

I’ll summarize but you can read it for yourself at:  http://www.shanghaidaily.com/national/No-smoke-without-ire-on-flight-to-Beijing-/shdaily.shtml

So, a passenger was smoking in the bathroom on a flight to Beijing from Chengdu.  Are you outraged and shocked?  Don’t be-happens all the time.  The flight attendant actually had the backbone to take away his cigarettes and matches (you think???) and probably yelled at him for drama and good measure for making his job difficult.

Later after the flight was diverted due to bad weather in Beijing and they had to refuel in Taiyuan, the Boeing 737 with 150 passengers had to have a refueling on the runway while they waited to take off again on their journey.  While this was going on, not one BUT FIVE passengers were seen smoking at the open cabin door next to the oil tanker. Can you say, “BOOM!”

What did the crew do?  Did they immediately arrest the passengers and stop this crazy stupid behavior?  No way–they did nothing according to the story in the paper.  WHAT???  After passengers called the police and they talked to the captain, he declined to do any security checks because he was “already badly behind schedule”.    I guess the captain was quoted as saying, “They can smoke as long as I agree.”.   If the plane had blown up due to these passengers bad behavior, then he might have had to rethink his logic.  Maybe if he wasn’t toast.

Of course, passengers asked for compensation for their distress and were given 1,800 Yuan and a refund of their ticket.  Luckily, they also got to walk away with their lives.  Asked how the matches made it through security checks, the Chengdu airport said it would try to improve.  Here’s hoping as the only way to get to Chengdu is to fly and I’m sure I’ll be going there at some point for work.  Maybe I should pack a fire extinguisher in my carry on–I know security will probably let it through and it might come in handy.

Bargaining Should Be An Olympic Sport

Today we ventured out to the AP “fake” market in Shanghai under the #2 subway line in Pudong.  We have been there many times to buy pearls, sports jerseys, Rolex watches, LV bags, etc.  I see bargaining for the lowest possible price as a sport.  I just wish it was an Olympic sport because I would totally own a Gold Medal.

Our mission was hunting for stylish yet waterproof rain boots for me.  With my commute of 1.3 miles each way to/from work and no taxis in sight when it rains, I am tired of stepping in the lakes that form quickly in the streets resulting from the city planners–shocker ahead–obviously not realizing that it rains heavily in Shanghai many months of the year. Where the hell did they imagine all that water was going to go???

Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market
Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market

Anyway, we went straight to our “shoe lady” who has sold us many a Converse-like shoe in the past.  She gives us the local price not the laowai inflated price and she has a nice smile.  Today, James found some nice leather sneaks but, after trying on hideous Croc-like rubber boats to keep my feet dry, we had to keep looking.  The popular Hunter boots were everywhere but I’ve had those (Hannah now looks splendid in them) and they’re just too hot and heavy for Shanghai.  Unfortunately, nothing else really else presented itself except a leopard plastic boot that I just couldn’t bring myself to like.  So, after heavy negotiating I got a short version of the Hunter mock lizard which will make my feet sweat like a bitch but perhaps will be waterproof–with the fakes, you never know what quality you’re getting until you wear/wash them.  They may last and they may not.  I told the guy I lived in Shanghai and would be back in his face if my feet got wet wearing his boots that I got for 160RMB.   He just smiled and waved goodbye.  He has no idea what’s in his future if my feet aren’t happy in the next monsoon.  Watch out mister!

Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market
Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market

Since my birthday was this past week and I ended up sick instead of celebrating, I decided to treat myself and give Sarah’s Pearls a visit because I just know they miss my bargaining like a mule which makes Thom cringe.  After seeing a long turquoise(like) and silver necklace, I knew it would look super with a simple black dress so into the lovely sequin bag it went for only 100 RMB–she started at 280 RMB.  Like a mule I am!

After negotiating for a brightly patterned pillow cover–I do have a serious pillow fetish for our boring beige couches–we started looking at custom made trench coats to accompany my new rain boots.  I’ll have to do some research on styles but I shopped for pricing and found I could get one for about 600 RMB (down from 2400) custom made in a few days.  SOLD!  Can’t wait to go back and order when my friend Patti visits.  I’m sure she’ll want some custom clothes too and I can get a better deal if we buy multiple items.  I truly do deserve a Gold Medal in bargaining because I save so much money that I can just keep on shopping, shopping, shopping!

Trying Out Tai Chi

I have always wondered why there aren’t more bodies littering the streets here in China what with the crazy traffic vs. pedestrian daily battles over turf.  Now I know–Tai Chi.  Embracing Tai Chi and practicing every morning on any street corner that’s available, locals here are nimble, stress-free and can gracefully leap out of the way of the buses bearing down on them without breaking a sweat or screaming obscenities.  Me, not so much.  Hardly a morning goes by without me starting my commute with a rude gesture to a motorist trying to kill me.

So off to Tai Chi Class we went today.  We had tried a Tai Chi class when we were on the boat cruise in Halong Bay but it was very brief and meant to be just an intro to what this ancient sport was all about.  Now, we were headed to a class for a hour long session to give it a whirl.  Old people here embrace it and do it daily.  And by “old people”, I mean WAY older than me.  How hard could it be???  Right???

Thom's first attempt at Tai Chi when we were in Halong Bay.
Thom’s first attempt at Tai Chi when we were in Halong Bay.

Now having personally attempted it, I know why Tai Chi is not that popular in the U.S.  I just laughed myself silly when the class instructor performed a move which involved bending like a pretzel while lowering your entire body to the floor only to bounce up like a jack in the box and fling one leg in the air, slapping it hard with your hand for some unknown reason.  Unfortunately, there was no way I was able to do that and not injure my body and dignity so I abstained.  Damn-this was way harder than Yoga!  Thom dipped a little but didn’t make it all the way to the floor but I give him credit for trying.

I guess I thought of Tai Chi as an exercise routine but it is really a martial arts form of  training used for both defense and also for its health benefits.  The slow movements looked so interesting when I watch the ladies in the park outside my window every morning.  I have all new respect for them, especially those who practice it with the shiny swords.  I can’t even imagine the “guns” these ladies are packing on their arms to be able to hold up that sword for any length of time and practice their moves.  You go girls!  Ain’t nobody messing with you!

After the class, I did some research and Wiki says, “Medical research has found evidence that t’ai chi is helpful for improving balance and for general psychological health, and that it is associated with general health benefits in older people.”.  I would say that anyone who practices this daily could whip anyone’s ass without breaking a sweat.

I bestowed several  of the moves with western-style nicknames like the “No Way In Hell” and the “No F*&King Way”.  At least the instructor didn’t come up to me and manually twist my body to demonstrate moves like he did to Thom and the other guys.  I guess the ladies are off limits to touch-yippee!  I had a yoga instructor try that on me in Seattle and I about backhanded her after she kept pushing and prodding me to do moves that were physically not possible, at least for me.  LIke it bothered her that I was sullying her class with my imperfect moves.  End of yoga time for me.

It was fascinating how these complicated hand gestures were really a complicated way to defend yourself.  Coming from the US where we typically defend ourselves with guns not Tai Chi, one has to wonder how many lives could be saved if we worked out all differences with our hands and feet instead of with a bullet.  First off, any incident where “alcohol was involved” would end up being resolved quickly because no way anyone could perform Tai Chi after having a few beers or shots.  They would just fall over after the pretzel move and pass out.  I had a hard time following the intricate precision movements stone cold sober–good luck if you’ve had a few too many.

Of course, I was thinking as I watched Thom get his personal training in protection that a good “knee up” would take care of any male attackers quickly but Tai Chi was definitely more elegant.  Since I have the attention span of a gnat, it was really hard for me to concentrate for a hour on at least showing some mimic ability of the moves being shown.  I would give myself a “C” for effort and “F” for execution if I’m being honest.  It wasn’t pretty.  At.  All.

Afterward, a nice couple who live in our complex (class was part of our onsite gym) came up and told us that they had been coming to class for a year and still were learning.  That made us feel not as inadequate and they encouraged us to keep coming to learn our moves.  There’s hope for us after all!  Tai Chi baby–watch out motorists in Shanghai–you won’t hit me now!

Exploring Close to Home

Who knew we had caves, a waterfall and a maze on the grounds of our apartment property???

Our very own "French Maze"
Our very own “French Maze”

WTF!  Seriously, we have lived here for almost one year and this past weekend we finally stopped having adventures outside the walls of our property and spent time exploring closer to home.  It got hot and humid so walking for miles wasn’t appealing to me so we decided to have a more “local” adventure.  On our side of the complex (total of 7 buildings with Weifang Road splitting the property into two sections) we discovered, among other things, a real life huge maze.   My first thought was “Why??” but I felt very Harry Potterish as I threaded my way among the hedges though I didn’t find any port keys but I’ll keep on looking.

Maze anyone?
Maze anyone?

There is actually a tower built to observe the action as people try to find their way out and two sections–low shrubs even shorties like me can see over and tall ones that even Thom couldn’t see over.  Then, next to the maze was a beautiful formal garden with statues and fountains.  Thom and I want to take over the management of the grounds so we can rent out these places for parties and events–they seem to be very underutilized.  Party time-let’s enjoy these beautiful spots!

Cave exploring with Thom!
Cave exploring with Thom!

Then we decided to try the other section to see what we could find and, amazingly, we found a section where a cave and tunnels had been carved out.  Again, I wondered “Why??” but as I doubt that many people had ever discovered these as they are hidden towards the back of the property but someone was parking their scooters in them so someone was using them for their own personal parking lot.  If we ever need a hiding place, this is it!

Next to the caves, we discovered a gorgeous waterfall and lake with koi swimming under the bridges. The traditional buildings house a restaurant, spa and dry cleaners–right on property!  We knew about the little grocery and liquor store on site–they deliver for free and it’s super convenient but have never been in these other facilities.  Leave it to me to know where to buy wine as close to home as possible.  That I’m never to busy to find out.

My best friend and her husband will visit us this fall for a month.  We can’t wait to show them all around and have new adventures.  Now we that we know all the hidden gems on our own property, we will show them around and they can explore the beautiful grounds when they need a break from the hectic life on the streets of Shanghai.

Pond, waterfall, and a view of downtown Pudong-all on property!
Pond, waterfall, and a view of downtown Pudong-all on property!

Quick Way to Get A Seat on a Shanghai Subway

I’ve often written that I know if I get hit or fall sick that I am on my own.  No one is going to assist me, call an ambulance or aid in any way.  It’s just not the China way.  To illustrate and confirm this, just read this recent Shanghai Daily article:  http://www.shanghaidaily.com/metro/society/Metro-appeal-after-fainting-foreigner-panic/shdaily.shtml

A guy passed out or fainted-who knows really-but pictures were publicized of the full subway car and then the quickly vacant car after this dude slumped to the floor.  Now the debate is on in the Shanghai Daily over what to do if this situation happens–government officials state “not to panic” because people running away from such an incident can be more dangerous.  True.

Photo from Shanghai Daily showing foreign dude passed out and all alone after crowd ran away
Photo from Shanghai Daily showing foreign dude passed out and all alone after crowd ran away

A follow-up editorial in the Shanghai Daily in the  Shanghai Street View section by Doug Young debates whether “many Chinese lack compassion for strangers.”. Basically, the general thought is that most people are just afraid of any trouble in general and they just want to disengage and run away from all disturbances if at all possible.  I guess some people called and reported this particular incident after they had fled the scene so the authorities did show up to investigate soon after it took place.

So, my advice to all foreigners–travel in packs and take care of each other.  It’s nothing personal but don’t expect anyone local to take care of you if you need help.  Better yet, try really, really hard not to get in accidents or get ill in public.  Dodge those buses and carry OTC meds from your homeland on your person always.  Happy Travels and, if you ever just feel the need to get an empty seat on the subway in Shanghai, you know what to do!