Christmas Eve at the Mall, Shanghai Style

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Crazy ass Santa’s running amok in the Mall–Christmas Eve, Shanghai Style! They need to eat some serious carbs to keep those pants up–skinny does not play well with Mrs. Claus, though she was nowhere in sight at Grand Gateway Mall this afternoon when we were doing a little last minute shopping.  The crew of Santa’s were having a good time but were told to “spread out” by their handler when they started to overwhelm the wee ones.

In addition, there were a slew of other crazy holiday characters causing multiple kids to cry in fear and run screaming into the nearest store to take cover. One dancing tree is cool but a whole forest can be intimidating even to adults. WP_20131224_012

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And don’t get me started on the girls wearing cakes for skirts–they epitomized the megabling of a Chinese Christmas. One guy said to Thom, “Christmas is for foreigners, not Chinese” but everyone I saw seemed to be enjoying the shopping and the restaurant buffets all over Town. The decorations were over the top at the Mall–the more megawatts, the better! WP_20131224_006

Movies & Fruit & Pastries, Oh My, Movie Night in Shanghai!

moviesWe don’t have to stray far from our Pudong apartment to find everything you could ever want for a cold winter night…fresh fruit being sold on the corner, bakery treats, wine and the latest DVD’s.

Tonight, we’re still recovering from being up pretty much all last night watching our daughter Hannah graduate college live in Boise, Idaho at 3 a.m. our time.  While I can’t wait to show my son, James, who is visiting over college break, all of Shanghai, tonight the family was just intent on hunkering down to rest and cocoon.

I had heard all about being able to find the latest dvd’s in China.  Being very sensitive to not buying “pirated” stuff prior to coming to China, you soon realize that this is the culture and the only way to get current movies is to buy what is available, which includes being able to buy movies like Gravity that are still in the theaters and not released yet, well except in the store on my block.  I thought the quality might not be good but they are perfect and cost about $2 per movie to buy.  Movie night marathon!

 

Then, it was off to buy movie night food.  The abundance of fruit in Shanghai still amazes me. There are fruit stands on every block all over town.  I have now made friends with the fruit vendor on our corner who sells out of his van.  Last night, wanting to buy an assortment of what he had to offer from blueberries to rainier cherries to oranges and more, I was unable to negotiate a fair price so I walked away empty handed and instead went to the bakery to stock up on treats like red bean buns, coconut milk bread and iced airy cakes.  Stepping out with my bag loaded with carbs, the fruit vendor and I began our negotiations anew and I ended up with a huge bag filled for 50RMB.  I still probably paid A LOT more than the locals do but it seemed fair to me.  That is until I saw him tonight and he immediately smiled and handed me two free bananas.  Okay, now I know for sure he feels guilty for charging me too much but who doesn’t love free bananas! fruit

 

Now, it’s back to cozy up on the couch and watch some shows while munching on fruit and pastries with a little wine to wash it all down.  Heaven!  Tomorrow we’ll be all rested up and off we will go to show James all the wonderful sights of Shanghai.  I think a trip to Tianzifang Alley might be in order as well as Fuxing Park, my favorites to wander through on a Sunday.  We’ve never been to Cool Docks so we might have to go there as well.  So much to see & do in Shanghai!

 

 

Keeping Warm, Shanghai Style

The weather is finally getting colder and the Shanghai fashionistas are breaking out their winter wear. The coats are beautiful and brighten up these gray days. With everyone commuting long distances to work in Shanghai, you have to wear layers and dress for any type of weather. Today I actually saw some real fur being worn–not sure what type of fur since pretty much all animals are fair game here in China but I was envious just because it looked so warm though I swear I saw a little head peeking out of one of the folds on this particular foxy cape.  A coat to keep you warm AND a pet to keep you company–what a creepy combo!

 

 

 

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The shoe story doesn’t really change too much when the weather changes. I still see the stilettos being worn on the street and wonder how on earth these women navigate the uneven streets and dodge the traffic wearing them. You have to be seriously nimble to survive just crossing the street here so I’ll stick to my “commuter” boots that keep me alive and put on the “work” heels after I safely reach the office.  You don’t see the ladies here wearing sneakers with their work outfits like you would on the streets of Manhattan..fashion definitely comes first here over function.

 

I look forward to getting a fashionable Shanghai coat myself soon like the looks I saw out and about this past weekend. Now, if I could just find functional but fashionable air masks to compliment my outfits like this rocking chick–crazy cute coat PLUS matching mask.  Keeping warm, Shanghai Style!Coat-9499

Caffeine Culture in Shanghai

I can’t believe we were ever worried about finding great coffee in Shanghai.  Not only is there a Starbucks on every corner in a pinch but also Costa Coffee, Coffee Bean, Gloria Jean’s, etc. plus some serious boutique coffee places all over town that we have been sampling recently-who knew?

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Conveniently located by my office in Xintiendi, Original Coffee at 276 Ma dang Road is kicking up some major caffeine with their Victoria Anduro Expresso machine.  They have a seriously friendly staff and a loyalty card-buy 6 get 1 free.  Naturally, I have already earned a free beverage!  The open air coffee bar was packed yesterday at 3 p.m. when I showed an office mate from Australia where it was for an afternoon  pick me up.  Creamy and smooth, the Americano was just the ticket to keep me going the rest of the day.  Now, if they only opened up before 8 a.m.!  Situated between my subway line and the office, I now time my arrival each day so that they are open by the time I walk by.  Yep, I’m not addicted or anything to the bean…

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Tucked away in a street full of bars, there is a tiny café known for it’s fresh roasted beans so we had to check out Café de Volcan at 80 Yongkang Road in the former French Concession area.

True to their publicity, the coffee was amazing.  Offered the usual ways plus as pour over and french press, it had a high caffeine content and then some.  Using a fancy machine from Seattle and giving little cookie bites with each cup, the brick walls and wood floors created a cozy feel to enjoy the brew.  It felt so much like Seattle, especially when one patron walked in with her dog–you don’t see that much here in Shanghai.

Dianna, our barista, told me that Shanghai citizens are learning more about the coffee culture and appreciating the good beans they roast, grind and serve.  One South African customer told us that he had enjoyed coffee around the world as he travelled and really appreciated this place.  Me too!

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I think we’ve found our new coffee “home away from home” places to absorb the caffeine culture in Shanghai.

Tears are flowing but the sun is shining again in Shanghai!

Monday I had a very ugly, miserable day. The rain was pounding and the wind was blowing, making the commute almost unbearable. It’s hard to get a taxi on a nice day but on a rainy day, forget about it and it’s off to the subway I trudge. After walking 20 minutes in the downpour and dodging vehicles that want to run me down, and then three separate trains, I got to work soaked and sweating. One taxi was so aggressive that I finally had to turn my umbrella into a weapon and beat the hood of the taxi as it beared down on me. Pretty way to start the day!

I knew when I moved here that I would have to miss stuff back home but, truthfully I have been in denial. However, it all seemed to come together at once and hit me over the head with a brick on Monday-my Mom is sick and my sister is bearing the burden to take care of her so I’m a bad daughter; my daughter will be graduating from college this week and I’m so proud of her but we will not be able to attend the ceremony and then, the true kicker hit me that this will be the first Christmas EVER spent apart from this college graduated daughter, who is happily married and expecting a baby in May and so unable to travel to China like my son. So, not only am I feeling like a bad daughter but also a bad mother at the same time. Double whammy and bring on the tears.

Thank God it was dark as I made the final walk home from the subway, tears streaming down my face that I just could not stop after a thirteen hour day of work/commute and all that running through my subconscious. Expats have probably all experienced this type of day but, for me, it was my first one. I’m sure there will be others but today the sun finally came out, I miraculously got a taxi, making the morning commute easy, and then treated myself to banana bread and an Americano from Wagas. WOW! Melinda-9429

We pick up our son from the airport this evening for his college winter break and his first trip to China. I just got Skype Premium so I could have unlimited calling to the U.S. to stay in touch with my family and we will live stream and toast my daughter as she walks across that stage at 1 a.m. Saturday (Shanghai time) and gets her college diploma. Yes, tears will be shed (as they are as I am writing this) but we will also be so very proud of her as she struts the stage in her bedezzled cap, carrying our first grandchild inside her. We find out on Christmas Day whether the baby is a boy or girl-stay tuned! What a lovely Christmas present that will be and, yes, tears of joy will once again flow but on this sunny day in Shanghai, I am smiling again. 🙂

Squat or Hedge-The Choice is Yours

Okay, when the government has to post cartoons in the stalls of the bathrooms to try and teach it’s citizens how to use the facilities, you know you are in China.  Of course, the cartoons are in English so you have to wonder….is it targeted at just me because I am pretty sure I’m the only one who only speaks/reads only English in our building?  I would say that everyone could use a refresher course on this topic but don’t I feel special that it is directed just at me.  Guess I’ll have to be more careful in the future or the bathroom police will swoop down upon me.

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I have to be honest with you, though, after seeing countless people just use the street as their personal bathroom, no amount of cute cartoons posted in bathrooms are going to make a difference.  Walking back from the park Sunday, two women were holding a toddler over the hedge to take care of business.  Not lying and yes, it freaks you out.  You know you should just avert your eyes and move on quickly because otherwise you will see some serious shit (literally) that you just don’t want to see but you stare because you just can’t believe it’s happening.

 

The press is even weighing in on this topic.  In the Shanghai Daily this week, one of the lead stories was on pit toliets or squats as they are called by locals.  Squats are still used in many urban bathrooms as well as rural areas so if you live or visit here, you will learn to squat.

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REMEMBER–hand sanitizer and toliet paper–carry them with you religiously wherever you go or you will be so, so sorry.  Working on those thigh muscles couldn’t hurt as well–practice that yoga warrior position perhaps?  You will need those muscles to use those squat (hole in the floor) bathrooms, believe me.  TMI, I know, but just trying to do my public service to get those “spoiled by toliets” Westerners ready for their China experience.  You never know when you may have to decide between using the squat bathroom or just taking advantage of a handy hedge.   Either is acceptable here.

 

 

 

Shanghai Daily Article for your reading pleasure:

 

Toilet campaign cleans up rural living conditions

Source: Xinhua | December 13, 2013, Friday |

Pang Zhankui and his family never expected a flush toilet at home, enabling them to get rid of the latrine pit haunted by flies and mosquitoes.

“No more dirty pits and no more stinky smells. All we have to do now is push the flush button,” said Pang, a 65-year-old farmer in Cangfang
Village, Gaoyi County in north China’s Hebei Province.

Pang’s family is among the 120,000 households who had their pit toilets replaced by flush toilets this year as part of a provincial campaign to improve the living environment in rural areas.

China has a rural population of 650 million. Farmers have benefited from the country’s opening up, reform, and preferential policies in past decades. However, it lags behind in living environment.

Farmers suffer from dirty pit toilets, garbage and waste water near their houses because of poor infrastructure and loose management.

“We used to throw kitchen leftovers and other garbage into the pigsty in the yard, but in recent years, when we quit raising pigs, we had nowhere to discard the garbage,” said Feng Yuezeng, a Nanlangtou Village farmer in Luancheng County, Shijiazhuang City.

In a rural environment improvement campaign, the Hebei provincial government spent 6.57 billion yuan (US$1.08 billion) this year on garbage disposal in 50,000 villages in the province. More than 120,000 workers have been hired at an annual cost of 270 million yuan to collect the trash in villages and deliver it to garbage power plants.

Zhang Baoqiang, director with the leadership office on countryside appearance innovation in Hebei, said more government efforts are necessary to address rural environmental issues.

He said the government plans to convert all pit toilets to flush toilets in the province within three years. “We only have seven years to reach the goal,” Zhang said.

 

From <http://www.shanghaidaily.com/national/Toilet-campaign-cleans-up-rural-living-conditions/shdaily.shtml

Subway Superwoman in Shanghai

subway chaos Feeling like Superwoman today!  I got to work via Shanghai Subway all by myself. Well, not technically all by myself because I was joined by several million of my fellow citizens doing their commute as well. At first, going down into the subway on the empty staircase, I was thinking I had beat the rush and this would be a piece of cake. Lulled into a false sense of security, I was then assaulted by just a few of the 25 million people who also happen to live in Shanghai. Boldly ignoring the officials signaling me to put my purse/backpack through the security scanner (no one pays them any attention so neither do I), I then proceeded to follow the masses into the bowels of humanity.

Lining up to get on the train as it arrives,  you pray that someone, really anyone, is getting off at your stop so that there is room for you to get on. This worked 2 out of 3 times but one time there was not a fraction of room so I waited for the next train, where I could find a pocket of space to shove my body into. Riding the Shanghai subway is a full-on contact sport—using your upper body to block and elbows to jab, you must use brute strength to gain a space on the train.  Having worked in NYC Times Square, I have some experience with these types of crowds so I wasn’t too intimidated but still….

Several locals smiled when they saw the crazy female Laowai on their train so at least I brought some levity to their morning chaotic commute.  I’m glad I can do my own thing even though it defies the norms for ex pat behavior. Surprisingly with this heavy traffic use, the subway is very clean and alsubway mapl signs and announcements are in English as well as Chinese so it is not hard to use.  It is super cheap at 50 cents US$ for my trip vs. $3 US for a taxi. To get to my office from home, I have to take three different trains which means lots of stairs as you have to go up and down to transfer. At least I don’t have to go to the gym tonight or at least that’s what I’m telling myself.

No one but me took the stairs, everyone else preferring to crowd onto the escalators. All told, it takes about 45 minutes for the commute. I may not take the subway all the time but it is very empowering to know how to use it and be able to get around town by myself.  After conquering the subway, who knows what I will tackle next!

Moving and Dodging in Shanghai

A few weeks ago,  we moved into our new apartment in the area called Pudong in Shanghai.   Holy Hell-if you thought moving in the US was stressful, try doing it in China.  Though we have a real estate agent who is working on our behalf and they had known about our move-in date for months, we still arrived at the appointed time with two mini vans packed with our belongings only to find that the apartment was a wreck from the painting crew that had just finished the night before.  After lots of heated conversation between our rep and the landlord rep, a crew of ladies showed up to clean and I promptly left to shop for needed stuff at Ikea and various grocery stores.   In other words, I bailed and let Thom handle it, which he did magnificently.  When I got back, it was clean and we proceeded to be able to unpack the air container that had miraculously shown up at the appointed time.  Our new mattress also arrived–we had heard that Chinese mattresses were hard but I swear they are made out of slabs of marble because they are just that hard.  I couldn’t have slept even a night on one of them so thank God our memory foam King size slice of Heaven showed up in time to save us.  We will have to buy super padded covers for our other bedrooms so our guests don’t have to suffer.

Our area is definitely expat friendly and close to the downtown financial center.  Our complex of seven buildings is built around a lake, which they had drained for repair.  Looking down from our 15th floor (really 12th level because they don’t have a 4th, 13th or 14th floor due to bad luck) and seeing a pit of mud, I was near tears but they assure me it will be filled up soon–yeah, right!    I do love looking down to see the dog walkers and tai chi groups exercising in the morning in the area around the mud pit. WP_20130910_029

While we have an unbelievable gym, there’s nothing like running outside, which I haven’t been able to do because I value my life and limb.   Pedestrians (and what few joggers are out and about) are the lowest form of life in terms of who rules the road and sidewalks.  You find out very quickly that the chain of life starts at the lowest level with pedestrians, then bikes, scooters, cars and then buses are the biggest bad asses and craziest of them all.  You step in front of a bus and you are history.  There is no “right of way” and certainly no niceties like “yield to pedestrians or crosswalks” going on in China.  Basically, if you are walking on a sidewalk or crossing a street, even with the light, you better be nimble, head on a swivel and dodge all the chains of life that can run you down because they will without a thought.  I just watched Dodgeball on TV and when the old guy says, “If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball” I just have to laugh because in China, it’s more like, “If you can dodge a bus, you can save your ass.”

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Not for the faint hearted or slow in movement, this is probably why Thom and I are the only Lai Wai’s I see walking the streets.  All the other ex pats are using private car/drivers or at least taxis.  What can I say–we like to live life on the edge and Thom likes to stare them down like the New Yorker that he is and see if he can get them to yield-not the buses, of course, but all other forms of killer transportation.  Sometimes he actually wins but, in the game of life, he also has learned to dodge too.

 

Nap time at Ikea

Everyone should experience shopping at Ikea in China. They have all the same merchandise that you see in the US but the customer interaction is so different. While the store is packed, the checkout is relatively empty. There is a whole lot of looking going on but not a lot of buying. In fact, you see people all over the store taking pictures in the various staged rooms. I’m told by locals that people then post these pictures to social media and say that these are pictures from their own home and not the Ikea showroom. What a great idea–no need to buy at all!

In fact, many people go to Ikea to nap in the comfortable beds made up for display. I doubted that this really happened, but needless to say, I was wrong as usual–there was a whole lot of napping going on! I’ve gone to lots of Ikeas and never seen beds so messy from all the napping traffic. You have to wonder how often they are changing those display sheets. Yikes and ughhh!

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The most popular part of the store, though, is the Ikea cafeteria. Offering relatively inexpensive mystery meatballs and other exotic fare, there hasn’t been an empty table the few times I’ve visited. Noshing on all kinds of treats, customers are definitely loving Ikea cuisine. Hopefully Ikea’s markup on food is making up for their lack of furniture sales. Just remember, next time you are feeling sleepy, swing by Ikea for a nap…join the crowd!

Carcasses galore!

>WP_20131031_011 After checking out WalMart and Carrefour this week to get our pantry stocked for our new apartment, I found myself pulling out my phone to capture the display of the most horrendous assortment of mystery meat, heaped and hung for purchase.  OMG-really!  Do people really eat this?  My stomach is churning and burning just thinking about the wall of carcasses that confronted me as I shopped for something to eat that wasn’t staring at me with beady eyes or cloven hooves.

I discovered that both locations, especially WalMart, are for locals and not Lai Wai’s like myself.  No international food, aka Special K, peanut butter, etc. was carried and no dual signing in English/Chinese.  I guessed on some cleaning products based on the pictures and just gave up for the most part finding familiar foods.

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Now you would think that fruit is fruit but there are some crazy varieties in China that I have to investigate.  I also learned that you have to get the produce weighed and tagged in the department or risk the wrath of the cashier upon discovering an unpriced item.  Just as in other situations where you have to line up in China, you learn quickly to shove and push to get a place in line and then hold firm or be shoved to the back quickly by everyone else.  Back in Seattle this week, I was definitely less polite than before due to this indoctrination with crowd behavior.  Oh well!
 

WP_20131031_009But back to the mystery meat topic at hand, there was also a wide variety of seafood swimming in tanks and ready to be killed for dinner.  I’m more comfortable not seeing my dinner alive so this is just not going to work for me.  I just don’t connect with a fish wagging its tail in a tank–those are pets not dinner.  For now, I have no idea what I will be finding to eat but I can guarantee you it won’t be from the wall of carcasses at WalMart!