Sunday Socializing in Shanghai

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Wandering through the parks, it’s always fun to see the locals enjoying life in Shanghai, even on cold days like this one.  Fuxing Park, one of my favorite places near where I work in Xintiendi, is always full of people but especially on Sundays.  Whether flying kites, dancing, singing, reading the newspaper or playing cards, there are hordes of people having fun and socializing.

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Reading the newspaper posted on boards in Fuxing Park.

We didn’t see any dancing today like we have in the past which was a bummer but there was a band and singer entertaining a large crowd with their musical stylings.  The sax player was performing a solo while another band member banged on the drums to set the beat.  I wonder if this type of gathering is spontaneous or part of a planned program.  Either way, we were part of the large crowd appreciating it all.

All over Shanghai, you see men playing cards (never women that I have seen so there must be some unwritten gender rules going on) and some day  when I learn enough Chinese to ask, I will find out what type of card games they are playing.  I have heard that here most card games involve placing wagers and gambling as well.

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Not sure what game they are playing but it looks intense!

After Fuxing Park, we walked over to Dongtai Lu, where we saw some men intensely playing a checkers-like game,  oblivious to the chickens running around nearby.  Someone’s lunch got loose!  Run, chickens, run!

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Run for your lives–it’s lunchtime!

Shanghai Sassy & Stubborn as a Mule

“You stubborn as a mule, Lady!” Really??? My husband later called the stall vendor a shaman for knowing me so well after a short, tough negotiation session for a jade Buddha I wanted. After the mule reference, he turned flirty and called me his girlfriend and told James that he was lucky to have me as his Mom. Then, talking man to man with Thom, he shook his head and said, “You get to go home with her!” and I’m not sure if he was saying that in a good way or a bad way but I think he respected my sassy and firm style of negotiating.  In all fairness to my new friend, many of my ex-bosses have called me stubborn as a bulldog but, again, I always took that in a positive way, probably because a bulldog is cuter than a mule or that could just be me rationalizing but I digress.

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Our Sunday was spent wandering Dongtai Antique Market (or Diagon Alley which is what it looked like to me–I expected to see a wand store at any time), I bargained hard for lots of cool treasures. Thom wanted a large and extremely heavy stone horse statue to celebrate the Year of the Horse coming up in 2014–got it for 150RMB (starting price I think was around 800RMB).   Thom had a moment of panic when we got home and he wiped the grime off the horse and it changed colors…oops!  It changed back when it dried but Thom is now threatening to put it out on the balcony so it can accumulate smog dirtiness and restore it’s antique luster.

James had a hankering for dragons (probably because we just watched The Hobbit Desolation of Smaug at home on DVD and, yes, it is still in the U.S. theaters) so I negotiated for him and got an intricate dragon statue and a dragon pocket watch as well as some beads and figurines for his friends back home. I also started our Beijing Opera mask collection with the goal to get several and hang on our wall.   They are so colorful and full of emotion.  So many treasures, so little time!

In between shopping, we enjoyed a vendor serenading us and watched some serious mah jong being played. Ahhhhhh….Sunday in Shanghai is a treat for the senses.

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Wandering Around Zhujiajiao Ancient Town on Christmas Day

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Nothing says “Happy Holidays!” like the smell of meat organs roasting on an open fire.

We spent Christmas wandering around the Zhujiajiao Ancient Town, about one hour outside of Shanghai.  There are around a thousand buildings of Ming and Qing Dynasty styles by the creeks and 36 ancient stone bridges, though we didn’t really see that many so I think someone may be stretching the truth in their literature.  However, it was very quaint and scenic.  I was shocked though to see one of the nicest, largest Starbucks that I have encountered in China sitting on the banks of the rustic creek.  Huge kudos to Starbucks for providing weary travelers with Americanos wherever we go.  Some might be disgusted by this crass commercialism but when one needs caffeine at 3 p.m., you care less about historical integrity and more about American standards for a good cup of Joe.   On a more China-like note, there were barbeques grilling meat organs including what looked to be hearts and intestines as well as bird eggs and other delicacies that Starbucks isn’t carrying yet.  So, going local or Laowai, you were covered either way!

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Starbucks is everywhere, even in Ancient Towns.
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Alleyways of shops.
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Tiny bird eggs cooking in clay oven. Yum!

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Puppies on Parade, Shanghai Style

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The Dogs of Shanghai know how to strut in style. I am having so much fun seeing what wild and crazy outfits the pooches on the streets are wearing each day. I’ll try to share with you some of the best dressed as I see them so you can enjoy them as much as I do.  Dogs always make me smile but when they are wearing bathrobes, it’s puts life into perspective, doesn’t it???WP_20131225_020

I’ve seen everything from rhinestones to jogging outfits to complete ensembles including booties. You don’t see as many large dogs here but the apricot poodle seems to be very popular and easy to dress up like a doll.  The huge Chow pictured here was hanging out in the ancient water town we visited on Christmas but you don’t seem them that big usually.

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We had to leave our wonderful Vizsla, Izaak, with our daughter in Boise when we came to China. It not only would have cost us thousands of dollars to relocate him here but the whole travel/quarantine process would have been brutal to his health so we opted to have Hannah and Mike adopt him. He likes to spoon and has been a huge comfort to Hannah as she is napping alot now since she is pregnant. All things work out the way they should but we do miss him so much.

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This cutie was protecting a handmade shoe store in Tianzifang Alley.  Sporting the polka dot fashion trend and a Snoopy character t-shirt, he was protected from the chilly weather and strutting his stuff, Shanghai Style.

We are trying hard not to get another dog while we are here but Thom just saw a post on Facebook for a dog needing a home in our complex so you never know…

For those cat lovers out there (James & Thom, not me!), here is a cat gnawing on dried fish cutlet at one of the stores in Tianzifang alley yesterday-yum!

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Fox Not Donkey??…Strange Meat, Shanghai Style

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Shanghai Daily posted this week that fox meat was substituted for donkey meat at Wal-Mart and the customer was so upset that they demanded compensation.  That is SO messed up on so many levels that I don’t even know where to begin but let’s start with the fact that Wal-Mart sells donkey meat.  WTF!  The article stated that fox meat costs less than donkey meat though, which was a real problem for the customer because he was being cheated and, oh, it didn’t taste as good-you think?  How about the real problem is that both donkey and fox meat are sold here to the masses at Wal-Mart, which is revolting and gag-worthy and really something I wish I didn’t know.  Damn, I hate that I read and am too informed at times.   But, there it is, and who am I to judge but now I have yet another reason not to ever meat in China or shop at Wal-Mart, not that I ever did.  And you would think it couldn’t get worse than the donkey vs. fox meat debate, when it does because, after all, THIS IS CRAZY & WONDERFUL CHINA!  BTW, here is the link to the story for more details if your stomach can stand it:  http://www.shanghaidaily.com/national/Fox-flesh-found-in-donkey-meat-package-at-WalMart-store/shdaily.shtml

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HEARTS & HOOVES ANYONE?

The ordinary vendors selling meat in their tiny Street shops seems normal to me as I pass it every day on my way to the subway.  But yesterday, I saw vendors selling hot barbequed hearts and cloven hooves in the alleys of the ancient town of Zhujiajiao. YUM!  Doesn’t everything taste good with barbeque sauce?

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DECK THE HALL WITH MEATS & ORGANS, FA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA!

Then, I saw something strung up between the trees by the charming (albeit polluted) canal in the”Venice of China” water town we were visiting.   Thinking, oh how festive, they have strung Christmas lights, I found upon closer inspection that it was instead a chain of mystery meat sausages and other raw meat festively dangling and attracting flies. DOUBLE YUM AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS IS SOME CLEAN AIR!

HEADLINE FROM TODAY’S SHANGHAI DAILY

Pollution for city’s Christmas                    By Ke Jiayun |                                        December 25, 2013, Wednesday

Blanketed in smog, the city saw a sunny but cold Christmas Eve with morning temperatures dropping to zero or below in some districts and later increasing to single figures, forecasters said.

The air was moderately polluted in the evening along with a rising concentration of particles. The density of main pollutant PM2.5 reached 182.air6 micrograms per cubic meter, or more than double the nation’s limit of 75.

COUGH, COUGH, BURNING EYES & THROAT…ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS IS SOME CLEAN AIR!!!

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At least I’ll look cute while I inhale the 182.6 micrograms per cubic meter of crap that is in the air today.  Instead of a White Christmas, it was more like a Grey Christmas with the sun obscured by the particulate matter as we drove out to the lovely water town on the outskirts of Shanghai.

Thanks goodness Santa brought me my new air mask!  It’s not exactly the latest technology but it is fashion forward and “pops” with a bright geometric pattern.  I might as well try to look decent on the outside because the inside of my lungs can’t be looking pretty after a day like today.

This Christmas, instead of hanging by a warm and cozy fire, we’re lucky enough to have a jumbo Blue Air Cleaner to cuddle up to and Elvis Presley’s classic song, “Blue Christmas”, just took on a whole new meaning for me.  Some day, God willing, we will once again be blessed to experience a White Christmas with Blue Skies.  I just don’t expect it will be in China.

Christmas Eve at the Mall, Shanghai Style

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Crazy ass Santa’s running amok in the Mall–Christmas Eve, Shanghai Style! They need to eat some serious carbs to keep those pants up–skinny does not play well with Mrs. Claus, though she was nowhere in sight at Grand Gateway Mall this afternoon when we were doing a little last minute shopping.  The crew of Santa’s were having a good time but were told to “spread out” by their handler when they started to overwhelm the wee ones.

In addition, there were a slew of other crazy holiday characters causing multiple kids to cry in fear and run screaming into the nearest store to take cover. One dancing tree is cool but a whole forest can be intimidating even to adults. WP_20131224_012

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And don’t get me started on the girls wearing cakes for skirts–they epitomized the megabling of a Chinese Christmas. One guy said to Thom, “Christmas is for foreigners, not Chinese” but everyone I saw seemed to be enjoying the shopping and the restaurant buffets all over Town. The decorations were over the top at the Mall–the more megawatts, the better! WP_20131224_006

Movies & Fruit & Pastries, Oh My, Movie Night in Shanghai!

moviesWe don’t have to stray far from our Pudong apartment to find everything you could ever want for a cold winter night…fresh fruit being sold on the corner, bakery treats, wine and the latest DVD’s.

Tonight, we’re still recovering from being up pretty much all last night watching our daughter Hannah graduate college live in Boise, Idaho at 3 a.m. our time.  While I can’t wait to show my son, James, who is visiting over college break, all of Shanghai, tonight the family was just intent on hunkering down to rest and cocoon.

I had heard all about being able to find the latest dvd’s in China.  Being very sensitive to not buying “pirated” stuff prior to coming to China, you soon realize that this is the culture and the only way to get current movies is to buy what is available, which includes being able to buy movies like Gravity that are still in the theaters and not released yet, well except in the store on my block.  I thought the quality might not be good but they are perfect and cost about $2 per movie to buy.  Movie night marathon!

 

Then, it was off to buy movie night food.  The abundance of fruit in Shanghai still amazes me. There are fruit stands on every block all over town.  I have now made friends with the fruit vendor on our corner who sells out of his van.  Last night, wanting to buy an assortment of what he had to offer from blueberries to rainier cherries to oranges and more, I was unable to negotiate a fair price so I walked away empty handed and instead went to the bakery to stock up on treats like red bean buns, coconut milk bread and iced airy cakes.  Stepping out with my bag loaded with carbs, the fruit vendor and I began our negotiations anew and I ended up with a huge bag filled for 50RMB.  I still probably paid A LOT more than the locals do but it seemed fair to me.  That is until I saw him tonight and he immediately smiled and handed me two free bananas.  Okay, now I know for sure he feels guilty for charging me too much but who doesn’t love free bananas! fruit

 

Now, it’s back to cozy up on the couch and watch some shows while munching on fruit and pastries with a little wine to wash it all down.  Heaven!  Tomorrow we’ll be all rested up and off we will go to show James all the wonderful sights of Shanghai.  I think a trip to Tianzifang Alley might be in order as well as Fuxing Park, my favorites to wander through on a Sunday.  We’ve never been to Cool Docks so we might have to go there as well.  So much to see & do in Shanghai!

 

 

Keeping Warm, Shanghai Style

The weather is finally getting colder and the Shanghai fashionistas are breaking out their winter wear. The coats are beautiful and brighten up these gray days. With everyone commuting long distances to work in Shanghai, you have to wear layers and dress for any type of weather. Today I actually saw some real fur being worn–not sure what type of fur since pretty much all animals are fair game here in China but I was envious just because it looked so warm though I swear I saw a little head peeking out of one of the folds on this particular foxy cape.  A coat to keep you warm AND a pet to keep you company–what a creepy combo!

 

 

 

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The shoe story doesn’t really change too much when the weather changes. I still see the stilettos being worn on the street and wonder how on earth these women navigate the uneven streets and dodge the traffic wearing them. You have to be seriously nimble to survive just crossing the street here so I’ll stick to my “commuter” boots that keep me alive and put on the “work” heels after I safely reach the office.  You don’t see the ladies here wearing sneakers with their work outfits like you would on the streets of Manhattan..fashion definitely comes first here over function.

 

I look forward to getting a fashionable Shanghai coat myself soon like the looks I saw out and about this past weekend. Now, if I could just find functional but fashionable air masks to compliment my outfits like this rocking chick–crazy cute coat PLUS matching mask.  Keeping warm, Shanghai Style!Coat-9499

Caffeine Culture in Shanghai

I can’t believe we were ever worried about finding great coffee in Shanghai.  Not only is there a Starbucks on every corner in a pinch but also Costa Coffee, Coffee Bean, Gloria Jean’s, etc. plus some serious boutique coffee places all over town that we have been sampling recently-who knew?

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Conveniently located by my office in Xintiendi, Original Coffee at 276 Ma dang Road is kicking up some major caffeine with their Victoria Anduro Expresso machine.  They have a seriously friendly staff and a loyalty card-buy 6 get 1 free.  Naturally, I have already earned a free beverage!  The open air coffee bar was packed yesterday at 3 p.m. when I showed an office mate from Australia where it was for an afternoon  pick me up.  Creamy and smooth, the Americano was just the ticket to keep me going the rest of the day.  Now, if they only opened up before 8 a.m.!  Situated between my subway line and the office, I now time my arrival each day so that they are open by the time I walk by.  Yep, I’m not addicted or anything to the bean…

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Tucked away in a street full of bars, there is a tiny café known for it’s fresh roasted beans so we had to check out Café de Volcan at 80 Yongkang Road in the former French Concession area.

True to their publicity, the coffee was amazing.  Offered the usual ways plus as pour over and french press, it had a high caffeine content and then some.  Using a fancy machine from Seattle and giving little cookie bites with each cup, the brick walls and wood floors created a cozy feel to enjoy the brew.  It felt so much like Seattle, especially when one patron walked in with her dog–you don’t see that much here in Shanghai.

Dianna, our barista, told me that Shanghai citizens are learning more about the coffee culture and appreciating the good beans they roast, grind and serve.  One South African customer told us that he had enjoyed coffee around the world as he travelled and really appreciated this place.  Me too!

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I think we’ve found our new coffee “home away from home” places to absorb the caffeine culture in Shanghai.