Shanghai Stinks

On December 7, 2013December 7, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Shanghai3 Comments

Holy Hell–I arrived back in Shanghai to grey, chunky, stinky air that would choke a moose. I knew that pollution was bad in China but never having experienced it firsthand, I thought, “How bad could it be??” Hey, I’ve been to smoggy LA and lived to tell the tale. Well, the reality is pretty f*&@ing bad because my new fashion look includes wearing a mask just like the millions of others trying to stay alive here. While my mask seems to offer some protection, it doesn’t do much to complete my ensemble so I’m thinking I may have to bedazzle it. When in Rome or something to that effect! Those who haven’t traveled outside China may not know the difference but I know blue skies are possible.

My driver was very introspective and saddened by the devastation that the pollution is having on people and property. He told me that his dream to retire to the countryside and enjoy life was ruined now and that he could no longer run barefoot in the fields because there was so much glass and trash now. The local river is polluted but that isn’t as bad as the air in his mind. He quoted to me something that a business leader in China had said –You can live with bad water because you can import that but you can’t live with bad air. Let’s hope that China takes action so the damage stops soon.

Many people think it is the cars causing the choking crappy air but it is really the smoke from coal used to heat houses/factories. Thus, the air quality is far worse in the winter. Here, we check the AQI (Air Quality Index) before going outside daily–normal in the summer is 150 or so vs. Los Angeles being at 50 as a norm but yesterday Shanghai hit new highs of 450+ here and life was seriously disrupted but one industry profited–air cleaner sales hit new highs, similar to the U.S. hysteria of buying snowblowers during a blizzard.

We love walking outside and getting to know our new home but, for now, I’m thinking that staying inside next to the Blue Air cleaner and watching a movie on HuluPlus will keep me living for just a few more days.

Shanghai vs. Vegas

On November 19, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Uncategorized1 Comment

I left on an extended work trip to the U.S. just days after moving into our apartment in Shanghai. My poor hubby stayed behind to get us settled in and will spend Thanksgiving all by himself. He’s a trooper! But the last two weeks I’ve been in Las Vegas working hard…really–very little gambling and shopping going on! But talk about a clash of cultures. Shanghai vs. Vegas…there were some remarkable similarities as I compared the two cities, walking to get to work via the Vegas Strip. Thoughts popped up like:

Would the Shanghai citizens be able to resist pushing to get out of the elaborates door turnstyles as found in the casinos or would they rush forward in their excitement to shop and gamble and surely get stuck as the doors stop when touched even lightly….Caution: follow the directions or risk being caught until a security guard can spring you.

Would the Nearly Naked Cowboy fly in Shanghai? He wasn’t nearly as naked as the original Naked Cowboy in Times Square that liked to strum his guitar in front of where I used to work but, still, I laugh out loud when I think of how often the Nearly Naked Cowboy would be photographed if he were to pop up in the middle of the fancy Xintiendi courtyard….I think he would be a crowd pleaser for sure.

What do these cities have in common? Well, an obsession to light up buildings at night, serve grandiose buffets, perform lavish acrobatic shows and shop at Prada, Prada, and more Prada. There is also a mutual love of water, whether in koi ponds or soothing waterfalls or over the top volcanoes, water features are everywhere in both cities.

In Shanghai, the few homeless you do see on the street begging are quiet in their demands, shaking a cup to get your attention vs. Vegas where the homeless travel in groups, strategically placed along the Strip with signs that read “Sugar Mamma needed” or “Need Weed”–can’t imagine that on the streets of Shanghai for some reason.

One unique idea I saw in Vegas would do well in Shanghai where the lovely fashionistas wear their stilettos to work. Imagine dancing the night away and then, feet bleeding, you just can’t take another step in those heels..but, wait…there is a convenient shoe dispenser right on the street that beckons you for a hideous yet comfy alternative.

The Vegas Strip and Shanghai have hordes of people walking the streets and also have great wealth positioned right next to great poverty. When I first saw the name of the apartments across from my office, I did a double take–Richgate–that is really the name of the apartments and is descriptive of the super luxury apartments that are over $6,000/month U.S. in the heart of the Xintiandi area. Just a block away, locals live in one room with no inside plumbing and cook on the street with oil drums heating their food.

I wonder how the locals feel about the Richgate residents. Do they resent their wealth? Do they welcome their money into the local economy? Do they aspire to be like them or consider them a necessary evil? Do they make fun of their decidedly different lifestyle? The same in Vegas-do the locals who work at the casinos resent the wealthy throwing their money away at the craps tables or do they welcome their business, creating jobs that do pay decently.

Thousands of miles apart, Shanghai and Vegas, but the wide disparity in the income levels is still the same no matter where you live in the world.

Moving and Dodging in Shanghai

On November 17, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Shanghai1 Comment

A few weeks ago, we moved into our new apartment in the area called Pudong in Shanghai. Holy Hell-if you thought moving in the US was stressful, try doing it in China. Though we have a real estate agent who is working on our behalf and they had known about our move-in date for months, we still arrived at the appointed time with two mini vans packed with our belongings only to find that the apartment was a wreck from the painting crew that had just finished the night before. After lots of heated conversation between our rep and the landlord rep, a crew of ladies showed up to clean and I promptly left to shop for needed stuff at Ikea and various grocery stores. In other words, I bailed and let Thom handle it, which he did magnificently. When I got back, it was clean and we proceeded to be able to unpack the air container that had miraculously shown up at the appointed time. Our new mattress also arrived–we had heard that Chinese mattresses were hard but I swear they are made out of slabs of marble because they are just that hard. I couldn’t have slept even a night on one of them so thank God our memory foam King size slice of Heaven showed up in time to save us. We will have to buy super padded covers for our other bedrooms so our guests don’t have to suffer.

Our area is definitely expat friendly and close to the downtown financial center. Our complex of seven buildings is built around a lake, which they had drained for repair. Looking down from our 15th floor (really 12th level because they don’t have a 4th, 13th or 14th floor due to bad luck) and seeing a pit of mud, I was near tears but they assure me it will be filled up soon–yeah, right! I do love looking down to see the dog walkers and tai chi groups exercising in the morning in the area around the mud pit.

While we have an unbelievable gym, there’s nothing like running outside, which I haven’t been able to do because I value my life and limb. Pedestrians (and what few joggers are out and about) are the lowest form of life in terms of who rules the road and sidewalks. You find out very quickly that the chain of life starts at the lowest level with pedestrians, then bikes, scooters, cars and then buses are the biggest bad asses and craziest of them all. You step in front of a bus and you are history. There is no “right of way” and certainly no niceties like “yield to pedestrians or crosswalks” going on in China. Basically, if you are walking on a sidewalk or crossing a street, even with the light, you better be nimble, head on a swivel and dodge all the chains of life that can run you down because they will without a thought. I just watched Dodgeball on TV and when the old guy says, “If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball” I just have to laugh because in China, it’s more like, “If you can dodge a bus, you can save your ass.”

Not for the faint hearted or slow in movement, this is probably why Thom and I are the only Lai Wai’s I see walking the streets. All the other ex pats are using private car/drivers or at least taxis. What can I say–we like to live life on the edge and Thom likes to stare them down like the New Yorker that he is and see if he can get them to yield-not the buses, of course, but all other forms of killer transportation. Sometimes he actually wins but, in the game of life, he also has learned to dodge too.

Nap time at Ikea

On November 11, 2013November 11, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Shopping1 Comment

Everyone should experience shopping at Ikea in China. They have all the same merchandise that you see in the US but the customer interaction is so different. While the store is packed, the checkout is relatively empty. There is a whole lot of looking going on but not a lot of buying. In fact, you see people all over the store taking pictures in the various staged rooms. I’m told by locals that people then post these pictures to social media and say that these are pictures from their own home and not the Ikea showroom. What a great idea–no need to buy at all!

In fact, many people go to Ikea to nap in the comfortable beds made up for display. I doubted that this really happened, but needless to say, I was wrong as usual–there was a whole lot of napping going on! I’ve gone to lots of Ikeas and never seen beds so messy from all the napping traffic. You have to wonder how often they are changing those display sheets. Yikes and ughhh!

The most popular part of the store, though, is the Ikea cafeteria. Offering relatively inexpensive mystery meatballs and other exotic fare, there hasn’t been an empty table the few times I’ve visited. Noshing on all kinds of treats, customers are definitely loving Ikea cuisine. Hopefully Ikea’s markup on food is making up for their lack of furniture sales. Just remember, next time you are feeling sleepy, swing by Ikea for a nap…join the crowd!

Carcasses galore!

On November 9, 2013November 9, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Food1 Comment

> After checking out WalMart and Carrefour this week to get our pantry stocked for our new apartment, I found myself pulling out my phone to capture the display of the most horrendous assortment of mystery meat, heaped and hung for purchase. OMG-really! Do people really eat this? My stomach is churning and burning just thinking about the wall of carcasses that confronted me as I shopped for something to eat that wasn’t staring at me with beady eyes or cloven hooves.

I discovered that both locations, especially WalMart, are for locals and not Lai Wai’s like myself. No international food, aka Special K, peanut butter, etc. was carried and no dual signing in English/Chinese. I guessed on some cleaning products based on the pictures and just gave up for the most part finding familiar foods.

Now you would think that fruit is fruit but there are some crazy varieties in China that I have to investigate. I also learned that you have to get the produce weighed and tagged in the department or risk the wrath of the cashier upon discovering an unpriced item. Just as in other situations where you have to line up in China, you learn quickly to shove and push to get a place in line and then hold firm or be shoved to the back quickly by everyone else. Back in Seattle this week, I was definitely less polite than before due to this indoctrination with crowd behavior. Oh well!

But back to the mystery meat topic at hand, there was also a wide variety of seafood swimming in tanks and ready to be killed for dinner. I’m more comfortable not seeing my dinner alive so this is just not going to work for me. I just don’t connect with a fish wagging its tail in a tank–those are pets not dinner. For now, I have no idea what I will be finding to eat but I can guarantee you it won’t be from the wall of carcasses at WalMart!

Making a house a home

On November 7, 2013November 7, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Shanghai4 Comments

We weren’t able to bring very many personal items with us to China. We chose to leave our furniture in the US and will probably buy a home in Boise, Idaho to be near our family in the future when we visit the U.S. That means we will have to try to make our new house our home without many of our favorite items including most of our family photos, the wall hanging of the Flat Iron building, the Noblesville throw, our autographed photos from the many concerts I’ve been to with my job, and so on. We saw a beautiful old phonograph (see left) but we couldn’t pull the trigger to buy it despite haggling the price down to $200 US.

So, as we set out to take this blank canvas of an apartment, I am wondering how to quickly make it our own and make it feel like home. On moving day, crazy me made our driver go to Ikea and help me load a huge floor plant into the mini van (picture at right of the leaf-filled van). The Ikea security guard got a good laugh out of our efforts to stuff it in without damage. I know having lots of plants will help with the air quality (in addition to our large Blue Air cleaner) and give color to the white walls and marble floors. I had to give away all the plants that I had managed to keep alive for years, truly a miracle, and our wonderful dog, Izaak, went to stay with our daughter due to cost and the anticipated stress. Boy, do I miss him!

I splurged on comfy plaid sheets and duvet cover from Muji, a Japanese store that is one of the few places to carry quality linens. I had no idea it would be so expensive and so hard to find good sheets but very few places carry any except Ikea which primarily has scratchy cotton. We also bought LOTS of candles to help with the strange odors that pop up with regularity from somewhere. I got some lovely silk pillow covers including a Mao classic head shot–when in China!

Over time, we will go to the antique alley markets and buy what speaks to us. Thom takes beautiful photos and we plan to get those blown up and put on the walls. Over time, it will start to feel warm and inviting like our other homes. Now, what to do about the lack of man’s best friend??? Time will tell…

One Republic Rocked Shanghai!

On November 4, 2013November 4, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Music1 Comment

One Republic rocked Shanghai Saturday night! We were front and center to experience a concert, Shanghai style. The arena was packed with a young crowd who amazingly knew all the lyrics and sang along all night. And they came dressed to the max with quirky and stylish outfits. Check out the hats on these girls who had on pearls with their proper dresses. There was even skin showing on some teens with skimpy outfits. Quite the range of fashion statements!

As far as concert behavior, you can tell they are just now getting rock concerts from the US here. Finally standing when the band took the stage, the crowd didn’t know quite what to do when the band stopped for a pause before the encore. Fortunately, I knew from past experience that there would surely be an encore so leave it to my big mouth to shout out, “Encore!” and start clapping, which then rippled throughout the arena as everyone joined in with me. Yea, that’s me–inciting crowds is what I do best!

Hopefully, the band will come back soon and won’t be banned. Ryan T. was pretty sassy with his comments on not being able to access YouTube from China and some other “freedom” references and his joking about his “security” force, i.e. the government guards by the stage. The crowd loved when he spoke a little Chinese and told a story about going to the Armani Store in the “fancy” mall next to their hotel (the Four Seasons) and how he loved the smell of the store which turned out to be a car fragrance tag hanging by the air vent vs. a fancy candle or perfume. That’s China!

Shanghai to Seattle

On November 4, 2013November 4, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn ShanghaiLeave a comment

After flying all night, I arrived in Seattle this morning for a quick layover before moving on to Las Vegas. I’m going to be in the US for a month on business, just one day after moving into our new apartment in Shanghai. Thom is staying behind to hold down the fort and hopefully get the hot water working before I return.

Already I am sitting in Stumptown coffee on Capital Hill in Seattle and reflecting on the immediate and striking differences between Seattle and Shanghai. First, the internet is blazing fast and I don’t have to VPN out to get on social media. Yipee! You don’t realize how buggy and slow wifi is in China after awhile-you just get used to it. So, score one for Seattle but, wait because Seattle falls short in cleanliness–the streets here are just dirty. In Shanghai, there are government workers on every block sweeping up debris. Here, the leaves have fallen (and it is much colder here!) and no one seems to care. Clean up your act, Seattle!!! Then, there are the Seattle hipsters, dressed in skinny jeans, scarves and facial hair, bringing their large dogs into the coffee shop. What? I can only imagine the tirade that would cause in China–dogs might be the entrée but they certainly aren’t allowed to be customers in restaurants.

I haven’t driven in China, obviously because I value my life, so getting behind wheel of my SUV here was weird and the drivers here actually follow the driving rules. That’s just crazy talk! I immediately went into a grocery store and was shocked at all the cookies, cakes, cupcakes, pies, etc.–no wonder Americans are so fat!!! Honestly, I was brave enough to go to WalMart and Carrefour this week in Shanghai and their few bakery items are in the back of the store not upfront like in the US. No, in China, they feature fruit up front-weird, crazy ass fruit that can smell just awful but I am sure is better for your health than red velvet cakes galore like here.

Seattle seems like such a small, quiet place now. There aren’t hundreds of apartment skyscrapers housing millions of people. There aren’t scooters and the bicycles you see in Seattle are very techie and not outfitted with baskets for groceries. In Shanghai, the bicycles are used for commuting but also for commercial business-it’s incredible what they can haul around town. Thom and I saw the bike pictured above hauling a household of furniture on the streets of Shanghai. Amazingly balanced!

I’m excited to experience the US now through a whole new lens. I will appreciate many things that I have taken for granted I am sure. I have a weird feeling though that this is no longer my home. I miss Shanghai-even with all the chaos, I can’t wait to return and continue our great adventure. That is, if Thom can get the hot water working….if not, I may have to extend my stay here…

To them, it’s still their Shanghai (anomadiclifestyle.com)

Halloween is alive and well in China!

On October 31, 2013October 31, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn Holidays1 Comment

Who knew that Halloween would be such a big holiday in Shanghai??? There are huge parties all over town, beautiful decorations gracing the malls and restaurants plus pumpkins everywhere. There was even a pumpkin cookie waiting for us in our hotel room tonight when we got home. What??

At dinner tonight (still able to sit outside and enjoy the beautiful weather) we watched little Disney princesses prance around with their wands enjoying the attention of all. We also started to see the funky dinosaurs and lots of lighted horns gracing the heads of many females to compliment their outfits for the bars. Fun times in Shanghai!

Exploring Shanghai’s Music Scene-Harry Potter to One Republic

On October 30, 2013October 30, 2013 By Travels with MelindaIn MusicLeave a comment

I am absolutely loving music more than ever since I came to Shanghai. I think it is a combination of watching less TV and thus having more time to just read, write and listen to music plus being exposed to new and different music. I’m listening to my new favorite, Wake Me Up by Avicii that I saw on China MTV. Check it out! We also discovered a “music alley” when we were wandering around this past weekend. Violin and piano shops line this street near the Shanghai Conservatory of Music in the former French Concession area as well as CD shops (yes, not everyone downloads their music apparently) and cute cafés.

We also are starting to get out and see live music. This week we went to the beautiful Shanghai Oriental Center to see the Shanghai Baroque Chamber Orchestra perform the music score from the Harry Potter movies. All you Potter Geeks (yes, Kaplans and Hannah-talking to you!) this was amazing–violinists proudly displaying their house colors, mainly Gryffindor burgundy/gold scarves. Hearing those familiar tones from movies I have seen too many times to count plus the narrator telling the story in Chinese between scores was fascinating. Yes, we were among the few people without kids in tow but we had a great time.

Now, this Saturday we have front row seats to see One Republic at the Shanghai Grand Stage. Two years ago, I got to introduce One Republic when they did a concert at my new store opening in Seattle and as they rocked the parking lot, I got to dance backstage-truly a moment I will never forget. Seeing them again will bring back lots of great memories. Can’t wait to keep on exploring the music scene here. Next up, live jazz in one of the many clubs here in Shanghai!

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