Cronuts have descended on Shanghai! Run for your forks!

Billed as “The desirable dessert from New York” the Woody Baker (named after the NYC icon Woody Allen perhaps??) in Shanghai has an array of Cronuts to nosh on.  I had heard so much about this hot craze in New York where people stand in line for hours just to get these type of pastries so I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to see how Shanghai interpreted the famous Cronut.

The two layers of custard are yum but messy!
The two layers of custard are yum but messy!

Two levels of croissant-like pastry with cream custard piped between and on top.  Awkward at best to eat by hand, I used a knife and fork to cut bites for the family to taste.  I tried cutting it with just a fork and it was too dense so the knife was needed. Unlike the donut or croissant that you could walk and eat on the street, if you try that with a Cronut, you will have custard sliding down your chest in no time as you try to rip it apart with your teeth.  NOT.  PRETTY.   They didn’t give out forks (or chopsticks-now, that would be a challenge!)  with it so I am thinking that you are supposed to eat by hand.  NO WAY!   Since there wasn’t chocolate involved (but you can get those), James thought it was just “okay” and he went back to reading his book.  His favorite dessert is brownies so Cronuts are definitely not his thing.

If you want to be "cool" eat a Cronut!
If you want to be “cool” eat a Cronut!

 

Now, the Chinese culture doesn’t really embrace sweet desserts.  Fruit is the favored meal ender here so judging by the lack of crowds at Woody Baker on a busy Saturday, I’m not sure building a bakery on one type of pastry is a sound business model.  It was just me and a Brit dude forking over the RMB.

And starting at 18 RMB ($3US) and going up to 26, these desserts are not cheap.  The average Chinese citizen would never pay that much.  Westerners like us are the target audience for sure.  Located in the Xintiendi area (think Manhattan of Shanghai), perhaps they can find enough laowais to stay busy baking.

Thom tasted it  and pronounced it “cannoli with a hint of donut” vs. croissant like.  The flavors offered are:  white chocolate pastiche, white chocolate Oreo, chocolate almond, banana special, fresh blueberry, coco cream and the original. Lots of variety if you want a tasty, very messy, cannoli-like, donut shaped treat.  New York or Shanghai–the Cronut Craze has gone worldwide!

Mornings in Shanghai

Mornings in Shanghai start slow.  I’ll never forget that first time I showed up all perky at 6:30 a.m. at the local Starbucks by the Four Seasons where we were staying on our first trip over to Shanghai.  Not open yet?  WHAT THE HELL?  How is a Starbucks not open by that hour?  After a few days of wandering around trying to find an early caffeine fix, I discovered that most coffee places (and there is a café on every corner) open by 8 a.m. but not before.  This falls right in line with the start of the typical office work day which is never before 9 a.m. and more likely to be 10 a.m. by the time everyone wanders into work.  Not me, of course, but everyone else in China.

AM Fruit run
AM Fruit run

I am an anomaly in Shanghai (and really everywhere in every way if I’m being honest) as I usually wake up at 5ish and am ready to walk to work by 8 a.m. at the latest.  As I do my new commute to the SWFC offices, I get to see the locals just getting started for their day.  This usually consists of a stop at the food cart where you can get scallion pancakes or steamed buns plus the daily fruit buy, which right now is very melon focused.  The ayi’s actually deliver fruit to our office desks every afternoon-very refreshing.  Melons, grapes, apples, etc. just appear like magic–all juicy and delightful.  Love this China tradition–YUM!

The shoemakers and vendors selling their wares are not up yet when I am on my way in–they work late into the evenings.  Most of the locals do not have a/c so everyone tends to stay outside in the streets dancing and socializing well into the evening probably to let their apartments cool down after dark.  The heat this summer in Shanghai isn’t as brutal as last year.  I remember melting in the 100+ degree heat many days after coming over last August, especially in contrast to the coolness I was used to in Seattle.

All by ourselves at Camel Pub, Pudong, watching Seahawks and enjoying breakfast cocktail!
All by ourselves at Camel Pub, Pudong, watching Seahawks and enjoying breakfast cocktail!

Speaking of Seattle, we were so excited to discover a Friday night Seattle vs. San Diego preseason football game would be played in real time at our local pub but at Saturday morning 10 a.m. our time.  Entering the dark pub that early in the morning, we woke up the staff and got them to boot up the TV’s so we could, all by ourselves, watch the game.  Screwdriver please!  They served me a salad with my scrambled eggs.  Sorry-not too early for the screwdriver but way too early for a salad.  I still have a Western stomach.  Of course, I’ll probably die of food poisoning.  I’ve been warned never to eat at an empty establishment because the grill will be cold so the food served will not achieve enough heat to cook the food thoroughly.  Time will tell….

Guess there are either no Seahawks fans in Pudong or it’s just too bloody early for most of the blokes around here-yes, most of the expats are Brits that we have met.  American Football–what’s that?  If it was a big rugby match, the bar would be packed!  Plus side to be the only ones here–no smoke.  Everyone smokes here and you go home from any bar smelling like a pack of Marlboros.  The muzak is heavy into 70’s with Barry Manilow (Thom was once mistaken for him in the 70’s on a NYC subway–worse compliment ever) and Johnny B Good.  Ahhh, mornings in Shanghai….eggs/salad/cocktails, bad 70’s muzak and Seahawks Football–no better way to start the weekend!

 

Shanghai Street Scenes

Carving out space in the street to work
Carving out space in the street to work

 

Walking home from the Shanghai World Financial Center (SWFC) to our apartment a block off the Huangpu River, I reminded myself tonight to soak it all in and observe life in China.  I walk through the business section of office workers and construction workers anxious to board their bus and get the heck home after a long day.

Many of the people in Shanghai live and work on or near the busy streets.  Whether a food vendor or shoe cobbler or seamstress or plant seller, their lives revolve around selling their services and goods to the locals walking by. That’s me!

Plants on a cart-they deliver!
Plants on a cart-they deliver!

The plant guy loves me because nothing makes a home seem cozier than live greenery.  Do they all live long lives?  NOPE.  We’ve had about 50% success rate so far but I just keep buying.  Like I said, the plant guy grins wide when he sees me because he knows I’m a sucker for any size plant.  Large.  Small,  Doesn’t matter!

Need a shoe repaired?
Need a shoe repaired?

 

These hard workers carve out their space with a lounge chair actually in the street or on the sidewalk.  From another century sometimes, the materials are basic to perform their jobs…. an old sewing machine, a crockpot with eggs simmering, etc.  It’s fascinating to see the diversity of this life vs. the “behind closed doors” lifestyle of the average person in the U.S.  This seems more social but hard for sure.  When it rains, these outside vendors get soaked and business sucks.

Here in China the sidewalks are teaming with people–eating, working and socializing.  On a relatively nice evening, everyone floods outside to soak up the low AQI and cooler breezes.  Ahhh, Shanghai Street Scenes on a lovely August eve.  How lucky I am to experience it!

Shoes and Tattoos

Last summer, Thom and I started a new tradition for our wedding anniversary gift –Shoes & Tattoos.  We both love a nice pair of shoes and thus own way too many of them plus we had never gotten tattoos.  So, off we went to buy gorgeous shoes and then went under the needle to get inked by a Seattle tattoo artist.  Did it hurt?  HELL.  YES.  But, as we are crazy adventuresome folk who love creating special moments not to be forgotten, we loved our new tradition.  Our kids both thought we were crazy but reacted differently–Hannah asked, “Who ARE you people?” and James got himself a large Celtic cross inked on his upper arm.  Love them both!

For my first and only tat, I got a cute little Chinese symbol for happiness in a non-public place and Thom got a big ass Tardis on his upper arm.  Yes, he’s a Dr. Who geek.  While he is considering adding on to his artwork with 9 planets, etc. circling his Tardis (he’s in a science fiction phase), I have advised against getting a tat in China.  All kinds of concerns and red flags are flying about cleanliness and needles/ink being injected into your body, etc.  However, he won’t listen (do men ever??)  and it’s his body so I’ve said my piece and now will get to tell him “I TOLD YOU SO!” when his limbs drop off his body if he proceeds.  Make your choice, Thom.

Having two different size feet is great excuse for custom boots!
Having two different size feet is great excuse for custom boots!

Fast forward a year to our anniversary just passed and we are now in China not Seattle.  This year, I’m sticking to the much safer tradition of just cool shoes for our 26th wedding anniversary gift.  When in China, DON’T get a tat but DO get custom made shoes—less chance of dying.  After many recommendations from online sources and locals expats, we went to YanYe in the former French Concession area.  After a previous trip, I was all set on a buttery tan leather ankle boot with red accents.  I got to select the leather, designed the style using several different models and picked the red accent pieces.  SHOE HEAVEN!

“Your right foot is bigger than your left foot!” Who knew??  Obviously, Mr. Zhao knows after his careful measuring.  It takes 3-4 weeks including a second fitting to get custom shoes just right.  I can’t wait to see how my unique boots turn out.  Here’s hoping I love my creation because at $250 US, I’ll be wearing them for the rest of my life.  While I wait for my special shoes to be created, Thom will ponder his tattoo design and decide whether or not to go under the needle.

JUST SAY NO!  Shoes are a fashion statement but a tattoo is forever.

Daily Craziness That Is Life in China

I enjoy the daily craziness that is living in China.   Always something new to see and experience.  This past week my commute has been upgraded to walking to/from work vs. taking the subway.  Hallelujah!  Of course, it’s 90+ degree with 110% humidity daily so by the time I arrive, I am soaked but still, it’s  nice not to be crammed into an underground tube with millions of coughing strangers.  At least on the street, the DNA being spit out has room to expand and a chance to blow away if I’m lucky enough to enjoy a breeze.   Now, I usually embrace public transportation as easy and cheap but enjoy it not being a daily necessity.  This past week when we were in Hong Kong, we travelled by subway and enjoyed the clean, well marked and lovely lime colored ambience.Hong Kong Subway

My fellow walking commuters crack me up.  Several times I have seen ladies of a more seasoned age walking backwards down the sidewalk.  Now, are they just crazy or is there a reason for this awkward commuting behavior?  I’ve researched online and many opinions exist including that the Chinese believe that walking backwards is good for the brain and stops memory loss and also that it improves your balance.  Thom believe that these lovely ladies I see think walking backwards is like going in reverse in a car and rolling back the odometer— acting like a time machine, you can easily take years off your life!  Of course, it could just be as simple as:  WHY NOT?  Makes perfect sense to me.

The stories just rolled in this week of odd behavior that people wanted to share.  A friend visiting from the U.S. just had to tell me about his “shocking” experience in the public bathroom.  Standing at the urinal, the dude next to him dropped his pants and proceeded to do his thing buck naked from the waist down.  Again, WHY NOT?   When I told Thom this story, he one upped it by telling me his story of odd public bathroom behavior.  He was using the facilities when in walked a gent who proceeded to not only drop his pants to use the urinal but then proceeded to waddle over, pants pooled at his feet, and wash his junk in the sink.  Needless to say, Thom made the wise choice to use hand sanitizer vs. waiting to use that sink to wash up.  Smart man!

bathroom monkey

Now, some of you may be just dying to know more about the local slant on why you should poop more often so I am sharing the article I read this week that is just hysterical and comes with handy tips–read on if you dare:

http://www.cityweekend.com.cn/shanghai/blog/health-matters-poop-yourself-happy/

For those of you who might just want a quick quip from the article, here is a snapshot, “..Chinese fruit stalls also sell fancy gift boxes of fruit.  So while your colleagues may have thought that when you bought your angry supervisor a box of pears you were pai ma pi (kissing ass), what you’re really doing is making the workplace better by helping your boss be a little less full of shit.”.  The author makes a good case for the perfect gift for all–fruit, fruit and more fruit!

Who knows what craziness will greet me this week as I walk down the street on my morning commute??

Looking forward to the unexpected and the crazy as I relish the adventure of living in China.  Now, I’m off to buy some pears.

 

 

26 Years of Adventures with Thom

I’d really like to not die today.  This thought runs through my mind most days as I walk to work in China.  Navigating the streets of Shanghai can be like running an obstacle course only with life threatening consequences if you don’t dodge the scooter/bus/car/bike at the right time.  A green GO light at the crosswalk doesn’t ensure safety–it’s only a pretty symbol that everyone ignores.

So, on my 26th wedding anniversary, as Thom and I decided to walk across Nanjing Road East, one of the busiest roads in Shanghai by The Bund, on a busy hot evening, I looked left and then right and followed him into the cross walk.  AAAHHHH!!!  My screams as the fast approaching car almost leveled us attracted many stares from the crowds of people on the sidewalk. Everyone like a little drama and excitement but hopefully not at my expense. Where the HELL did that car come from so quick?  Hubby saved me at the last minute from certain death by Audi.  That’s why I married him!  Thanks, babe!

Prior to our brush with death, we started our anniversary celebration with the usual date night of foot massages at Dragonfly.  Our ladies tonight had thumbs of steel and pounded us for 60 minutes–amazing how an hour can go by so quickly–next time we are going all out with 90 minutes of foot rubbing attention.  What can I say–we are natives now that foot massages are part of our health and happiness.  Try it, you’ll like it.

Bund Tunnel with Light Show
Bund Tunnel with Light Show

Then, it was off to take the sightseeing tunnel of fun from Pudong to the Bund.  For only 50 Yuan you can take the gondola and speed through a light show under the Huangpu River.  It is pretty and fairly fast way to get across and everyone should try it at least once.

I had been wanting to go see the venerable Jazz Band at the historic Peace Hotel for a long time so we finally made it.  I had heard that the true miracle of this band was that the band members managed to stay awake past 8 p.m. as most were 70+ at least.  Laughing at their playing of Yankee Doodle and Dixie for the expat crowd, I enjoyed the Shanghai Cocktail specialty drink while Thom drank his bottled water.  My mom would love this place–they played Moon River and had Sidecars on the drink menu.

WP_20140730_019 Peace Hotel

After the near death experience, we decided to tempt fate again with a night ferry crossing to get home.  Always exhilarating to experience firsthand the ferries dodge the coal boats to quickly get across the river, we couldn’t even get to the upper deck because it was so crowded with mainly local folks enjoying the balmy night.  I’m so happy I didn’t die today and am be able to enjoy another day with my awesome husband of 26 years and continue our adventure in China!  LIFE.  IS.  GOOD.

Thor The Adorable

James christened the newest member of our family, Thoraxis, after an alien character from a show called Community that I have never seen.  I just watched the movie, Thor, on the flight back from the U.S., so I have decided to nickname him after the hunky superhero in the movie.  Though, Thor should have been named Chewbacca because he is a tiny black fur ball who can’t stop chewing on everything in his path.  We have tried to channel his teething on chew sticks and toys but he prefers paper and my Surface keyboard instead.  THOR!

I was in the U.S. when Thom saw a post on a local blog seeking foster parents for a rescue dog.    His sharp tiny teeth may not hurt now but Thom insists that we try and discipline him now or he will start having our Cole Haan’s for dinner soon and that’s a deal breaker. 

Right about now as I’m taking cute puppy pictures, I feel a warm wet feeling in my crotch where Thor has been playing with his chew toy.  This can’t be good.  HOLY. HELL.  THOR!  The little bugger has let loose all over my beautiful red chaise and me.  How can such a little creature make such a big pee stain!  As Thom joked, “Puppies give you a warm feeling all over and sometimes it’s not a good thing” or something to that effect.  Ha.  Ha.  Sure, easy for him to joke since the pupster didn’t pee on him, though he did clean it all up.  Of course, Thor’s favorite place is next to Thom’s computer under the desk lamp.  Let’s see if Thom is as jovial when he has a wet stinky PC to try and dry out.

Adorable Thoraxis right before he pissed all over me.
Adorable Thoraxis right before he pissed all over me.

Thor only weighs over a pound now and is still on antibiotics for various ailments resulting from being the runt of the litter.  When we return from our trip to Hong Kong, he will hopefully be well enough to get his vaccines so he can venture outside.   Who knows what breed he is but he won’t grow big.   Of course, my daughter thought that too about her pound puppy Oliver, the Great Dane.  Oops!

Our Chinese tutor, Fiona, has kindly agreed to puppy sit for us while we are gone.  I’ll have to warn her to watch out for the little ankle biter’s couch wetting problem but I know he’ll melt her heart with his little puppy eyes.

Even with the large wet spot still drying out on my chaise, we love you Thor and welcome you to the family.   Now, go get on your puppy pad for a time out–tough love, Thor!

 

 

 

Blue Skies Are Possible

Attention my fellow China neighbors, please visit the U.S.on a day like today in Chicago and experience what blue skies, green water and clean, clean air feels like. I can’t help myself from constantly gazing at the skies here and giving thanks for the U.S. laws that we impose on cars, industries, etc. that keep it this way for us to live in an environment that isn’t hazardous to our health. You can yap all day about less government in our lives (yes, I’m talking to you Tea Party People) but that oversight keeps us safe. Seriously, people who make it happen in China need to wake up and smell the clean air that is possible. The people of China deserve a healthier environment to raise their families and live their lives. Most citizens don’t ever leave their homeland so they have no idea what is possible and what it feels like. I read in the state newspapers that pollution regulations are a priority so I can only hope that they mean it. I know my body can only take it so much longer and I will need to return to breathe clean air again and renew my lung capacity.

Chicago Waterfront!
Chicago Waterfront!

Today, I got up and walked the Chicago waterfront enjoying the beautiful Lake Michigan green waters and clean sandy beaches. Everyone was out early playing beach volleyball and staking their claim to a prime spot on the beach. A non-profit was promoting ice cream for donations so I bought a homeless woman a treat to enjoy on this sunny day.  There are definitely more homeless on the streets in Chicago than you see in China.  I wonder if that is because of the cultural traditions of taking care of family in China.

I’m now sitting outside a Starbucks to enjoy my treat, a Chai Latte. Yummy gingerbread milk on a lovely sunny cool day in the US of A. Doesn’t get any better than this…except when I pick up my beautiful daughter Hannah and Baby Mia today in Chicago and take them for their first visit to GreatGMA Gene and Great Aunt Becky in South Bend. We get to spend some quality time with friends and family before I head off to Atlanta for meetings and Hannah heads to Idaho for a friend’s wedding, Mia’s first. I can only imagine the fancy headband that she will be sporting with her pretty dress. Life is good.

 

Shanghai to Chicago

I knew I was back in the USA when I saw the “No Gun” sign posted prominently on the door of the boutique in Chicago.  Unbelievable that this preventative action is required to alert all gun-toting shoppers to check their artillery at the door or no Michael Kors for you!  Probably just a fashion statement vs. a safety precaution because, really, the gun holster would ruin the look of the outfit.

Only in the U.S. do you need to post this sign to high end shoppers!
Only in the U.S. do you need to post this sign to high end shoppers!

Arriving in Chicago from Shanghai, I was hyper-aware of the culture differences from the moment I landed.  Delta Sky Club-I’ve missed you!  Though the massage chairs are nice in the VIP Lounge in Shanghai, I appreciated the sensory overload from all the TV news shows and newspapers offered in the Club.  Heaven for a news junkie like me!  I miss hearing all the horrible uncensored news about humanity-makes you appreciate your own life more.

Deciding that I needed to be thrifty since this part of my trip was personal, I decided to save a few bucks and wander around O’Hare to find the Blue Line CTA train to take me to downtown Chicago.  Now, doing this late in the evening by myself and never having done this before was probably NOT my brightest idea.  Honestly, I felt safer in China than I did at that moment in my home country.  After an unhelpful bored CTA attendant told me to use the machines and rolling her eyes at my request for help, she proceeded to give me wrong directions.  I hopped onto the train with about a million TSA agents going home for the day, which made me feel only slightly safer, and immediately noticed that the trains were much dirtier than in China.  Interesting.  The layout for passengers in China is for maximum capacity with benches along the side to cram people in and lots of hand holds from the ceiling.  None of that here–just individual seats molded into shapes to accommodate the larger American posterior.  Sorry, but it’s true.

Jumping off the train after about 14 stops, I had called the hotel and found out the nearest station and it was definitely NOT the one the CTA agent had told me.  Glad I’m not a trusting soul.  Trying to cram my large suitcase through a turnstyle to get out, a very helpful Chicago citizen assisted me when I got stuck.  What the Hell!!  Who builds a tiny turnstyle for a mass transit exit!  Much more efficient in China to just walk through gates to get out quickly.  Grabbing a taxi was easier than I thought it would be and off to the hotel I went, forgetting to tip the poor driver because, in China, tipping is not done.  Sorry dude! I’ll have to cash in some $$ to spread around.

Even at night, the Chicago River looks cleaner than the Haungpu River!
Even at night, the Chicago River looks cleaner than the Haungpu River!

After being in a plane for a day, I quickly went for a late night walk along the Magnificent Mile.  Seeing the China Union Pay credit card sign in the Gucci window made me feel at home–you can tell who their primary customers are!  Here, the large three story retailers are Crate & Barrel vs. Prada.  Culturally, the Chinese like to wear or drive their wealth vs. buying home fashions that can’t be shown off in public.  It’s a status thing.  I also noticed far fewer luxury cars here vs. the gold plated Lamborghini I saw last week in Beijing.  No small display of wealth there!

The streets were quiet and the cool weather was probably keeping all the diners inside vs. on the outside patios.  What a pity!  I can’t wait to get out tomorrow and walk around this beautiful city before picking up my daughter and Baby Mia to go see family.  GMA Gene and Great Aunt Becky, here we come!

Cooking Local in Shanghai

To know a culture it helps to understand the food that nourishes the local people. To that end, we decided to take a cooking class in Shanghai. Cherry was our fearless leader (www.cookinshanghai.com) who took our group including Thom and James with a couple from California and a gal from Ireland, to the local wet market and then to a local apartment to cook our meal. Allowed to have some input into the meal we wanted to create, we chose our favorite dishes: scallion pancakes, dumplings and spring rolls.

After a short walk from the subway entrance where we all met up, we walked to the local wet market. This is not a local grocery but more like an indoor farmer’s market with absolutely no health/safety standards, where you can primarily buy produce and meat/fish from stalls. Very locally priced, it was fascinating to watch Cherry pull up the picture of the produce we were looking at on her handy iPad and learn fun facts like how eating bamboo helps offset the bad effects of eating meat or this veggie can help you lose weight or have better skin complexion. Eating dates can help with dizziness–who knew???  Every food in Chinese culture has a health benefit. Finally emerging from the overwhelming smells of the fish market, I gulped fresh air like it was my last breath.

Waiting for the elevator with a local resident in his pj’s eyeing us like WTF are you doing here, we went up to the fifth floor to the apartment where we would cook our feast. Surprisingly large, Cherry explained that they had created a much bigger kitchen than normal just for their business. Before starting our cooking journey, we, of course, had to take time to get to know each other and drink tea.  Cherry taught us the healing properties of the different types of teas–White Tea to heal the stomach, Red Tea to cure “cold bones” and lose weight, etc.   While our chef began prepping for us, we chatted and learned that the one couple from California were an aeronautical engineer and a soon-to-be Berkley law student on China vacation. The Irish gal had taken a 9 month leave of absence from her job to travel the world with her boyfriend. They were or had been to in addition to China: India, Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, New Zealand and the US. WOW! I am jealous. Ahhh…to be young and have no responsibilities!

James started out as bored and disinterested but as he mixed, rolled, flipped and ate, ate, ate, he started to have as much fun as a 21 year old boy can have with his parents. As the only local residents with a refrigerator, we got all the leftovers so that made him even happier. Unable to taste anything myself due to my weak stomach, it all looked very good and easy to replicate at home. Made of very basic ingredients, we look forward to cooking more at home. Maybe I can even encourage James to use his new skills and cook for his parents…dreams can happen!

 

Dream Team
Dream Team