Cooking Local in Shanghai

To know a culture it helps to understand the food that nourishes the local people. To that end, we decided to take a cooking class in Shanghai. Cherry was our fearless leader (www.cookinshanghai.com) who took our group including Thom and James with a couple from California and a gal from Ireland, to the local wet market and then to a local apartment to cook our meal. Allowed to have some input into the meal we wanted to create, we chose our favorite dishes: scallion pancakes, dumplings and spring rolls.

After a short walk from the subway entrance where we all met up, we walked to the local wet market. This is not a local grocery but more like an indoor farmer’s market with absolutely no health/safety standards, where you can primarily buy produce and meat/fish from stalls. Very locally priced, it was fascinating to watch Cherry pull up the picture of the produce we were looking at on her handy iPad and learn fun facts like how eating bamboo helps offset the bad effects of eating meat or this veggie can help you lose weight or have better skin complexion. Eating dates can help with dizziness–who knew???  Every food in Chinese culture has a health benefit. Finally emerging from the overwhelming smells of the fish market, I gulped fresh air like it was my last breath.

Waiting for the elevator with a local resident in his pj’s eyeing us like WTF are you doing here, we went up to the fifth floor to the apartment where we would cook our feast. Surprisingly large, Cherry explained that they had created a much bigger kitchen than normal just for their business. Before starting our cooking journey, we, of course, had to take time to get to know each other and drink tea.  Cherry taught us the healing properties of the different types of teas–White Tea to heal the stomach, Red Tea to cure “cold bones” and lose weight, etc.   While our chef began prepping for us, we chatted and learned that the one couple from California were an aeronautical engineer and a soon-to-be Berkley law student on China vacation. The Irish gal had taken a 9 month leave of absence from her job to travel the world with her boyfriend. They were or had been to in addition to China: India, Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, New Zealand and the US. WOW! I am jealous. Ahhh…to be young and have no responsibilities!

James started out as bored and disinterested but as he mixed, rolled, flipped and ate, ate, ate, he started to have as much fun as a 21 year old boy can have with his parents. As the only local residents with a refrigerator, we got all the leftovers so that made him even happier. Unable to taste anything myself due to my weak stomach, it all looked very good and easy to replicate at home. Made of very basic ingredients, we look forward to cooking more at home. Maybe I can even encourage James to use his new skills and cook for his parents…dreams can happen!

 

Dream Team
Dream Team

Home Alone No More

After a two month journey alone working my butt off and living the solitary life, my fellow adventurer has returned home. Thom landed this week with jet lag to spare. As unhappy as I was by myself, I had grown used to it. Coming home from work to an empty, quiet house after a long day and spending my evenings at the gym, eating cereal for dinner as I read trashy novels on my Kindle was boring, boring, boring. I worked too much and had very little fun. But that was what had become normal. A bad normal but still, after two months, my new normal.

In strolls my funny, grumpy, messy, noisy, opinionated partner for life. Quiet no more. Yet, instead of being thrilled at his arrival, I was irritated at times and not appreciative like I should have been. Hell, Pink, our Ayi, was happier to see him than I was. I resented him taking up my time, not wanting to go to the gym when I did, needing to eat when I was fine with a piece of cheese and a glass of wine, talking while I was working on a project. You get it—driving me absolutely f&@#ing bat shit crazy.

At night, who was that hulk taking up my spacious bed and hogging the pillows??? My pillow was stolen while I was on a nocturnal bathroom break. Not. Funny. Finally, I went to the couch to get some rest away from this strange intruder. Waking up to him making coffee was a plus for sure and softened the transition. Going for foot massage and mani/pedi night was an entre into the life that we had known and embraced. Ahhh…nothing like a spa date to bring two people together again.

Thom getting pampered after his long journey home.
Thom getting pampered after his long journey home.

As our daily routine becomes once again filled with the happy sharing of lives, we have vowed not to ever do that living apart thing again. While there were solid reasons for having it happen, i.e. helping with the new baby, moving into our new Boise house, etc., it was NOT pretty. I’m not sure how a relationship can survive separations like this or how people survive life without a loving partner and I never want to try it. Thom, WELCOME HOME HONEY! Now, give me back my damned pillow and make us some coffee.  Love you!

 

Lazy Afternoon in Shanghai

Happiest discovery of the day was that “my” subway line, the #9, goes right to Tianzifang Alley, my fav place to shop.  How did I not know this before??  It’s the little things that make me happy.  Pathetic.  If you come to Shanghai, you absolutely must shop there.  Quaint and photogenic, the crowded alleyways are lined with interesting stuff.  One place even had Cronuts, the croissant/donut that is so hot in NYC right now.  Trendy!

Tianzifang Alley-always fun to visit and right on the Subway Line #9
Tianzifang Alley-always fun to visit and right on the Subway Line #9

Yes, the prices are higher than at the AP “fake” market but there is a nice mix of stores and bars/restaurants to spend the day wandering and enjoying.

My favorite stores include the t-shirt shop with all original designs where you can get a really cool T for just 99 RMB ($16 US).  Not saying who I bought that awesome t-shirt for but he arrives later this week on his school break.  Luckily, he never reads his Mom’s blog so my secret is safe.  Now, I can’t say what gift I got my Mom because she is a loyal blog supporter so we’ll just say that it’s pretty enough to wear to dinner.  I had to visit the paper store too where beautiful and witty postcards share space with ObamaMao notebooks and paper picture frames to hang from twine with adorable clothespins. The resident shop cat was missing–hope she was just in the back and not someone’s lunch.

After a short subway ride home, I saw all kinds of interesting sights on the short walk home.  Sundays are a busy day as most people only have this day off from work.  The shoe cobbler was very busy as were the fruit ladies.

Shoe Cobbler is busy on Sundays
Shoe Cobbler is busy on Sundays
Watermelons are plentiful right now!  Wished I liked them.
Watermelons are plentiful right now! Wished I liked them.

I guess it is now officially watermelon season as they were piled everywhere along the street.  Too bad I’m not a fan of this fruit.  Lychee are also hot right now.  I’ve tried them-kind of slimy so no go.  Yes, I’m a picky eater.  SO. SUE. ME.   I’m an apple, pineapple and banana kind of girl with a kiwi now and then to spice things up.

The DVD store was busy too-tried to buy the new XMen movie but my guy there clued me in that it was a “bad” copy (he only does this for the regulars–the tourists go back to their home country with crap DVD’s) so I opted for the first two seasons of Orange is the New Black, which I hear is very good.  I predict the family will have a movie marathon on a rainy day soon.  Off to Beijing tomorrow–never a dull moment!

Sundays are laundry day and clothes are hung randomly all over the sidewalks to dry.
Sundays are laundry day and clothes are hung randomly all over the sidewalks to dry.
Umbrella anyone?  Locals use for shade from the sun.
Umbrella anyone? Locals use for shade from the sun.

Evening Stroll in Shanghai

The culture here, especially in warmer months, is to enjoy the outdoors and stroll with friends, family and pets.  I’m all about walking and having adventures so I embraced this tradition and took a walk last night along the Huangpu River in Pudong near our apartment.  It was hot and humid with the AQI in the 160+ “Unhealthy” range, which in Shanghai means a lovely evening, so everyone was out enjoying themselves.  Without Thom, it’s not as much fun but he will be home soon, so in the meantime, I had to get out and enjoy some unhealthy air all by my lonesome.  So, off to the river walk I went with an end destination to pick up some healthy salad at Fresh Elements and take home to eat while I watch Veep, Season Three, purchased at the local DVD store.

Basketball is big here in Shanghai!
Basketball is big here in Shanghai!

Walking by the courts along the river, it’s easy to see that basketball is big here as there are usually always several games going on.  I have never seen girls playing basketball so I wonder if that is done here.  The only sports that I have heard that local girls play is tennis and badminton.  Sports in general are not really a way of life though watching the World Cup is definitely HUGE here–probably because it involves drinking and partying as well plus I’m starting to see articles about the gambling that is going on with people betting on the games.  Now, that is definitely a huge sport here with people going to Macau to “make money” not like Vegas where going to shows and entertainment is a part of the total experience.  I’m told that they take gambling very seriously here.

Going further down the river walk, I happened upon what looked like an organized ritual going on.  There were probably 20 people, including a monk, chanting specific wording off laminated cards.  Facing the water and solemnly reading the words over containers filled with live eels,  I wished I could understand Mandarin well enough to know what the hell was going on.  It was definitely a “Shanghai moment” and I’m so glad I was there to experience it.  

Even though I’m alone right now, I force myself to get out and see this wonderful, unique country while I can.  I don’t know how long we will be here and I want to soak it all in while I can.  Looking forward to my son, James, coming this week so we can go on adventures with him.  He came at Christmas but the weather wasn’t as accommodating to get out so hopefully he brings his walking shoes because instead of playing Xbox and ordering from Sherpa’s as he loves to do, we are going to wander and explore China while he is here-just what 21 year olds like to do with their parents!

News So Crazy It Has To Be Real-Who Could Make This Up???

The news made it’s usual trip to crazy town this week in the “Around China” section of the local newspaper so I thought I would share with you this collection of news briefs that showcase the absurdity of human behavior:

“Big rooftop house measures 1,630 sq m”.  So this illegal house was “discovered” recently though it was erected between 12/2012 and 4/2013.  Was it under an invisibility cloak all this time?  Did it just fall out of the sky on top of the building when no one was looking?  In typical fashion, “Local urban management officials could not stop the project because they didn’t meet with the owner, though they attempted to.”  Not surprisingly, the owner “cannot be found” but the house remains as testament to the craziness of the housing industry here.  Anyone need a room with a view?  Anyone want to bet that the urban management officials have moved in until the owner returns to keep it safe?

“Wife seeks divorce from blabbermouth husband.”. Yes, that’s a quote.  Seems the hubster was sharing details about their sex life with his parents. Now, men here are very attached to their family and all but this is a little too much sharing.  The court supported the woman’s request based on her plea that there was “no understanding between them and they had a poor emotional foundation.”  You think?

“Man drinks own urine for ‘treatment’ for 24 years.” This retired “official” (inquiring minds wonder what he was officially In charge of?) has now been diagnosed with kidney failure at age 88.  He said he “felt good for first 20 years” but now, not so much.  “Experts said there is no scientific basis to believe that drinking urine improves health.” Now, there’s some good news.

And finally, don’t come rushing to visit me to get your surgery done when you read this one:

“3-D printing used in surgery for first time.”. A hospital in a province that shall not be named has become the first to “experiment” with 3-D printing technology in vascular surgery.  Yes, Doctor, please experiment on me too and print me out a new heart or hip.   So cool.  Let’s see if it works after you cut me open.  Beautiful.  I bet they could work you in to the surgery schedule too if you ask nice.

 

It’s Human Eat Dog Festival Time

The headline in the Shanghai Daily reads, “Early dinner for lovers of dog meat”.  NOT. KIDDING.  It seems that there is an annual summer solstice festival in Yulin City in southern China where residents gather to eat dog meat and lychee in celebration of the longest day of the year.  This is so wrong on so many levels that I can’t stand it!  We didn’t bring our beloved Izaak to China with us because it was very difficult and a long hard journey for him to endure.  Now, while I miss him so much, I am feeling much better about our decision.

Many Chinese Dog Owners love and take care of their best friends
Many Chinese Dog Owners love and take care of their best friends

TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) is huge here and beliefs around what each type of food you eat can do for your body.  Apparently local residents believe that dog meat strengthens the body, especially in summer and ensures good health throughout the winter.  Man’s best friend elsewhere is just another way to prepare for the long winter ahead here.  I get that life in China is rough and that people will try anything to stay healthy but let’s just get these folks some Walgreens with OTC meds readily available and they can go back to enjoying their puppies as pets not meals.

Now, I see dogs everywhere I go in China and while they sometimes have pink hair or are wearing jogging outfits and booties, you don’t see dog meat on the local menus.  A co-worker did admit to having dog “hot pot” with a friend and told me it was considered a delicacy in some places.  He also said it was delicious.  I don’t think I’ve looked at him the same ever since.  Yes, I am judging you.

Animal rights activists have caught wind of the dog meat festival and are protesting.  The paper said that strays are grabbed off the streets and could have diseases.  Oh, so the animal rights activists are concerned with the effect on the people eating the dog and not really advocating for the dog???  Activists are also quoted as saying “the public backlash was damaging the image of Yulin and China.”. You think?  The local government only asked restaurants to take “dog” off the menus and signboards but did not ban the sale and consumption of dog.  So, if you are travelling in Yulin in the near future, as always in China, watch where you eat.  That could be Fido in your Hot Pot.

You Looking at Me?

I am one of those people who enjoys eating cereal for dinner…not eyeballs.  Tonight, I had Special K and a banana and loved every bite.  Everyone always ask me if I love the food here in China.  For a “foodie”, China would be paradise.  For a non-foodie like me, it’s challenging.  But not only do I really, really not like eating weird stuff, I get sick so easily.  So, travelling all the time, I am constantly invited to go to business dinners where I get to watch but not eat the food because I know, without a doubt, that if I do try it, I’ll be projectile vomiting into the nearest potted plant like that unfortunate airport incident that haunts me to this day.  So. Not. Pretty.

You looking at me shrimp?
You looking at me shrimp?

Thus, one general rule I embrace is that if the entrée is staring me down, I’ll stare right back at it but no way in Hell is that going into my mouth.  Mmmmm…..eyeball juice.  So at a recent fancy business dinner, I was lucky enough to have not just one course giving me the stink “eye” but several different ones, all attractively presented but all with eyes.  DAMN.  Amazing how those little eyes pop out when boiled..ughhhh!  At a beautiful restaurant with great service, we were offered a “set” menu to choose from with five options.  Since all reflected selections were not my cup of tea, I let my dinner mate pick my menu and I gave him my food when he finished his selections.  I appreciated the smoke emoting from one of the dishes and the bark/coral/flower decorations.  Fancy!  Now slap that on a turkey on whole wheat bread with tomato and mayo and I’m in.

Second course, more eyes
Second course, more eyes

The poor wait staff was so concerned with my lack of embracing their cuisine that, while they had informed me earlier that they only served bottles of wine and not just a glass, they took pity on me and brought me a glass of Cabernet to enjoy.  Bring that lady some alcohol!  Then, maybe, just maybe, she’ll eat our food.  Sorry but no amount of wine gets me eating eyeballs but I appreciated the thought.  So, between everything either having eyes or being raw, I ended up with an all liquid dinner.  My first course was sake followed by a carafe of iced spice punch with a Cabernet chaser.   Not bad but damn I was hungry.  I even sampled the dessert out of desperation but it was hot red beans with taro ice cream-pretty presentation but it tasted like putty.

Sake..punch...Cab=Dinner
Sake..punch…Cab=Dinner

 

Finally, after consuming my lovely liquid trio, I got to leave and try to navigate an unfamiliar subway station to find my way home, all alone, late at night.  Surprisingly, I actually made it home in one piece with no damage and didn’t get lost at all.  First stop at home…enjoying a boring raisin roll and a glass of milk because I was starving.  YUM.  Good Times in Shanghai!

WORLD CUP FEVER HITS CHINA HARD

World Cup Fever has taken over China.  It’s pervasive in the media, merchandising, and, of course, the bars.  In no way, is the World Cup as big in the U.S. as it is in China.  The World Cup is a huge part of life here in China for the next month.   WP_20140613_018Stay up all night watching games?  No problem.  To call off sick here, you need an official hospital note, which you can obtain online from various nefarious sites.  The article in the paper yesterday said that interest has surged for these notes so that people can watch football all night and call in sick the next day.  There is even a special insurance policy offered for Cup excesses.  The article in China Daily today details how for only 48 cents U.S. (3 yuan) you can get the “World Cup hooligan insurance package” guaranteed to compensate you up to 10,000 yuan if you are attacked or robbed by thugs while out partying hard during Cup games.  Another policy pays out for sickness caused by alcohol poisoning to cover inpatient and outpatient costs.

 

Why the rabidly scary interest here?  China didn’t qualify this year and has only appeared in the World Cup once in 2002–can’t even imagine the partying going on then.  While there is great international presence here in Beijing due to the Embassies, from what I have read, the Chinese will root for anyone except Japan.  The drink deals are plentiful–buy 5, get 1 free on beers could be renamed the “good luck walking home” offer.  At the fake market, the sellers were doing a huge business in selling football shirts in all sizes.  You want it, they got it–“lookey, lookey, best friend” discount and all.  At the Blue Frog, my new favorite Western style restaurant, they even have a machine counting down to the opening with an embedded Kinect to play soccer games while dispensing special edition Budweiser Beer World Cup bottles–what an all purpose machine!

World Cup Shrine
World Cup Shrine

The Blue Frog manager quickly looked up for me when the US plays–at 6 a.m. this coming Tuesday vs. Ghana.  I am hoping that my Shanghai TV package gets these games live.  I get to go home tomorrow!  CCTV has boots on the ground covering tape delayed games but as much as I would love to work on my Chinese, I would love to hear the game announced in English.  So, I’ll be up early cheering on my US team and dodging the early morning drunks on the Shanghai streets as I go to work and the World Cup partiers struggle to make it home in the morning hours.  Work?  No Way-not for them for at least a month and even then it might take another month to get the alcohol out of their blood system.   Party on, World Cup Fans!

Going Home

On my walk last night to find food and enjoy the rare blue sky in Beijing, I took a back road by the canal near the Westin.  There is a large construction site there and nearby a large group of workers had gathered, talking and laughing.  You could see relief on their faces that it was Saturday night and tomorrow would probably be their only day of rest for the week.  As I walked by, I saw a bus in the distance and realized they were all waiting for a ride back home.  Suddenly, some of the workers broke away from the larger group and started running towards the bus, probably to ensure a seat since there were so many people for only one bus.  The driver was not deterred by the rush of people and kept on rolling down the street toward the “official” bus stop, ignoring the rush of workers.  I thought about how hard the life is for the workers, probably living away from their families, and reminded myself to be more appreciative of the life I have been given.  Watch this video and you may feel the same way-enjoy: 

 

Early Morning Walk in Beijing

Up at 4 a.m. to catch the sun rise, I was in awe of the morning sky.  The strong wind and rain yesterday cleared out the air and, for the first time, I got to see blue skies and the mountains surrounding Beijing.   Who knew???  Obscured by thick, grey pollution almost all the times I’ve ever been here, it’s quite lovely when the pollution is washed away.  Too bad they can’t program a typhoon every week to clear it out.

After Skyping with Thom, Hannah and a sleeping Mia, it was still only 5:30 a.m. so I decided to do a walkabout and see who else was up in my neighborhood.  Surprisingly, I did see some joggers taking advantage of the clean air.  Run while you can breathe!  The street vendors were just hauling their carts out to make the morning breakfast for the commuters.  That could be onion pancakes, eggs or steamed buns.  Traffic was light and not the usual clogged mess on the “ring” roads.  This trip I’m staying at the Westin near Sanlitun.  I like this neighborhood more than the Grand Hyatt near the Forbidden City–too touristy for me there.  Here I can walk to more Western restaurants in the Sanlitun Mall and there is a nice canal next to the hotel.  When I say “nice”, I mean picturesque but I would never, ever dream of swimming in it unless I wanted to die quickly of many and varied diseases.  Walking by today, several gents were bathing/swimming in the canal in the early morning.   One had on a bathing cap–cute but what you really need is some scuba gear and a full body suit!

Guard at one of the Embassies coming to get me because I'm taking his picture!
Guard at one of the Embassies coming to get me because I’m taking his picture!
Canal near the Westin and bathing pool for some gents I saw today.
Canal near the Westin and bathing pool for some gents I saw today.

I continued down Embassy Row where the guards were at attention protecting the occupants.  As I looked at the bars on all the windows of the buildings inside the locked gated areas, I thought to myself that they probably need those precautions in case of a protest or attack but it wouldn’t make for very comfortable living.  As I took a picture of the guard, he immediately started to come at me.  Yeah, right buddy—you aren’t confiscating my phone.  No way.  No how.  I just started walking fast and he backed down, returning to his post.  I can’t even imagine how boring it would be to just stand in one place for hours.  I wonder what he thinks about while he is standing prone watching and waiting.  Are they so bored that they actually wish someone would attack them so they have something to do?  I feel for them.  No job is really easy but being bored is the worst.

It’s the weekend but I am working straight through on my current project.  No rest in sight and no Thom until July.  Then, life will get better.  In the meantime, I will put one foot in front of the other and wake up each day to appreciate the chance to live in the moment and look to the future.  The blue skies today helped for sure!  Yesterday, there was even a rainbow after the rain.  Everyone was stopping to take pictures-I’m sure rainbows are unusual in the gloomy Beijing grey skies.  I’ve always loved rainbows and think they are a sign of hope and renewal.  As they say in Hawaii:  No Rain, No Rainbows.   Bring on the typhoons baby–I could get used to these blue skies in Beijing.