It’s taken a few weeks of settling into a new routine in the U.S. and obsessing over a new job for me to find my Seattle voice. When I found out we would be leaving Shanghai, I wondered what the hell I would write about in boring, sleepy Seattle. China was exciting and odd and wonderful all at the same time. Even reading the Shanghai Daily would produce laughs and a story to share. So, off to Chinatown we went today. Surely I would be inspired there!
James doing his best job to eat all the dim sum including my favorite–egg tarts.
As we wandered the quiet, deserted streets today on our way to Chinatown for lunch with James (yes, trying to recreate the past!), I noticed not one dude peeing in the street. Weird. In fact, there wasn’t hardly a soul to be seen anywhere in the downtown area. Where was the fruit lady and the shoe guy? Amazing when you go from 25 million people in a city to under 1 million you do feel a distinct difference in the pace and most sane people would appreciate it. Not me—I like the busy streets and hum of a vibrant urban environment. Shanghai! Manhattan!
At lunch, I couldn’t wait to taste and compare the egg tarts, one of my favorite delicacies that didn’t make me sick in Shanghai. Definitely not as good as what we had in China, but the Seattle version was still delicious. James dug into shrimp fried puffs, red bean paste sesame buns, barbeque buns and dumplings. I loved that when I spoke Chinese to the staff that they immediately knew what I was saying. Mydan! Check please! When we asked for “take way”, our waitress chided James to eat more so she could fit everything in one small box. Done. You don’t have to beg a 21Year old boy to eat more.
Lovely Chinatown in Seattle
We walked through Chinatown, Seattle style, and ogled the pastries in the bakery. YUM. Hearing a soulful tune, we stopped to listen to the old guy in the park making beautiful music with his Erhu traditional string instrument while checking out the jumbo size lawn chess set available for all to play but no one was–everyone was too busy stuffing their faces with hot and steamy dim sum on this cold, crisp day with skies so blue and air so clean you could actually take deep breaths, which I couldn’t get enough of. It’s good to be home.
Thor is coming! Thor is coming! Back to the U.S. that is! Our adorable four month old puppy, Thoraxis, has become a part of our family so when we found out we were headed home, my first thought was OH NO THOR CAN’T GO! We hadn’t brought our beloved Viszla, Izaak, to China due to the expense and hardship it would take on his health being a big dog who would have to ride in cargo.
Izaak the Regal and Gorgeous Dude
So, Izaak stayed home with Hannah and Mike to become Ollie’s (their Great Dane) brother from a different mother and he has loved his new family. But, soon we return to Seattle and will welcome him back into our lives to walk and cuddle with–Izaak loves to spoon.
Thor The Magnificent Rescue Puppy
Luckily, we worked out the details with my company and Thor can now make the trip back with us. He has gone through so much in the three months that we have had him. Thom and James got him while I was in the U.S. on a business trip in July when he became available as a rescue dog. The runt of the litter with health problems, he has now gone from a sickly one pounder to a healthy four pound bundle of energy with THE sharpest baby teeth. After getting all his vaccines, he has now graduated to outside walks which we used to enjoy so much in Seattle with Izaak. After being afraid of steps, both up and down, Thor now takes them with no hesitation and seems to at least tolerate other dogs he meets outside. Good news for his cohabitation future with Izaak.
Thor looks so skinny when he’s wet yet didn’t fit into his cute outfit
While walking the local streets, Thor looks right at home and plops down on the dirty sidewalks to rest intermittently because he does have short legs after all. After stepping in his own deposit on the street, though, Thor had to endure only his third bath of his short life, which he desperately needed. Now I understand completely why most dogs in China wear booties–after stepping into their own DNA and that of many other folks who spit and poop on the streets, you do not want that dog jumping on your furniture and sitting on your lap. YUCK!
Thor tries on clothes for his new Northwest home-plaid shirt and sweat pants
I did find him the cutest outfit to wear (over Thom’s loud objections) that had a checked shirt and sweatpants, but found out quickly that he had grown so much that it was too tight. After laughing at him falling over because he couldn’t move in it, we stopped the puppy torture and decided to regift it to my sister’s Chihuahua, Sierra Marie, who is teeny tiny and needs some cozy fleece to keep warm on those cold Midwestern nights. We’ll just have to keep on looking for appropriate street wear for Thor to style in Seattle. He needs to be a hipster to fit in at Stumptown coffee–he would look cool rocking some skinny jeans, suspenders and a bow tie… just saying.
This the hardest blog post I have ever written and I’ve been avoiding it for days. Because, if I don’t write about it, it won’t be true. But it’s time to face the truth and move on. Last Friday, I found out that we would be leaving China two years earlier than I thought. It was sudden news and unexpected to say the least. While I am lucky to still be employed, I almost feel like a part of me has died. I have so loved this great adventure in China. The unusual, always fascinating world swirling around me daily, as I walk to work and travel with Thom will be ending next month and I am sad.
Big Plus to Repatriate-spending time with Hannah!
Why didn’t we travel more? Why didn’t I work less? I thought the first year here would be the time to dive deeply into the new job and learn and create and work harder than ever. Then, I could enjoy more of this exotic region the next two years with plans to visit Cambodia, Australia, Thailand, Taiwan, and other parts of China over the many Chinese holidays we are given. Alas, we have really only seen Beijing, Nanjing and Shanghai plus Hong Kong. We so enjoyed our visits to Vietnam that I know that other parts of Asia would be equally cool. DAMN. If only….
So, while I am thankful for what I have and the experiences we enjoyed, it is a life lesson to share with all that should be remembered. Enjoy the moment. Live in the day and don’t wait for anything. Yes, you still have to plan for the future but you just never know. So, the next few weeks while we have our friends, Patti and Larry, staying with us from the U.S., we will conduct the Shanghai Farewell Tour and visit new places as well as say good bye to our favorite haunts around China.
This week, I had already scheduled a work trip to Beijing so despite the news, we are still going and I will get to say good bye to the wonderful folks I hired and trained here. I’ll get to take my childhood friend to the Great Wall (my fourth trip) and we will scream all the way down the toboggan there-one of my favorite things to do in China. We will find a panda somewhere to gaze at and maybe even hold for enough RMB—hoping the Shanghai zoo has a few since Patti really, really wants to see one and we’ll enjoy eating out on our gift certificates to various restaurants that we have acquired and, of course, the VIP massage card. Patti is very willing to help us use up the RMB still left on the massage account. Foot massages galore!
So, I will hold back the tears and appreciate everything I have been given. I will look forward to seeing my awesome family more often and spoiling my granddaughter, the beautiful and smart Mia, who is the inspiration for our new online business, Mama and Mia, that we will launch soon with my Hannah creating fashionable headbands that ALL the cool babies will want to wear and personalizing baby quilts from Vietnam and blankets from Uganda—benefitting the women around the world who make them.
Most of all, I will be grateful that I have had a chance to live in a different culture and understand that the world is a big wonderful place that Thom and I will continue to explore from our Seattle base. While one adventure is ending, many more are just beginning! Watch out world-here we come!
Using the Hyatt gym in Seattle to try and stay healthy on the road, we aren’t feeling the love. At home, we are used to being greeted by an Ayi, who hands you a towel and makes sure the minute you finish your bottled water, another is handed to you while you are on the treadmill. In the US, you are on your own–no greet, no water bottles and get your own damn towel. WHAT?? No pool shoes provided, no bathing suit “squeeze out the water” machine in the locker room and where the HELL is my personal hot tub to relax in after a swim?? Oh yes, you might say we are spoiled rotten by the higher level of service found in hotels in China that we are lucky enough to stay at when travelling. I acknowledge that and feel a great level of appreciation for those perks I have become accustomed to. It makes up for the polluted water, air and food. Small trade offs.
Thom’s looking for the Ayi and bottled water…keep looking!
One other bitch about the gym here–you have to walk by the ballroom through a maze of stairs and hallways to get to it in an attached building. Last night, there was a big shindig going on and since it was from my company, I was afraid to walk by in my gym clothes dare I walk into the CEO or someone I know so we had to find an alternative way to get there by going outside in the rain. Again, first world problems but still….
Being a Diamond level member of Hyatt loyalty program, I get to visit the Regency Club wherever we stay so we can get treats and beverages. The Beijing Grand Hyatt Club is huge and puts on a feast every day for every meal with unlimited adult beverages. Oh Yaaaahhh Baby! The Seattle Hyatt is being very judgmental and must think I don’t need unlimited wine because when we tried to get in around 9 p.m., it was locked and closed for the night. Obviously they don’t understand how hard I work. Room service please!
I will say the room service is better in the US having lived through the Nanjing incident where it took 4 attempts to get milk for my cereal. Being hermits, we love room service so we have feasted on lobster mac & cheese, crab bisque and Cobb salad, and were mighty impressed at the yumminess factor. I almost licked the bowl after finishing the cheesy crab bowl of heaven. After that meal, we need to go back to the gym and work out a little more. On to NYC tomorrow so we’ll be walking all over town from Central Park to Madison Square Park, checking out all our favorite haunts. HELLO MANHATTAN!!! HERE WE COME!!
Stop and smell the Seattle flowers! Life is short-enjoy it!
Today was Doctor Day. After experiencing the China Medical System first hand and being sufficiently appalled and flat out frightened at their completely outdated facilities/medical equipment, I decided to take advantage of being in the U.S. for a work trip and knock out every medical check up I could think of. So today, I got injected, poked, prodded, radiated and burned. Good times!
First up, Dr. Ken entered the examination room and saw Thom and I both sitting there. “OMG, don’t think I can take both of you two at once!!!” We love Dr. Ken and he did the ” Double Trouble” George exam providing valuable strong meds for Thom’s chronic back pain (his past youthful indiscretions catching up to him) and reassuring me that it probably wasn’t lung cancer that the China radiology saw on the X-Ray but the CT scan today would tell us for sure. Damn you China pollution-you suck! We should know more tomorrow–cross your fingers!! Upon entering the clinic, Thom gleefully stepped on the scale announcing “160 without clothes” and sure enough (thankfully he left his clothes on for the nurse) but he came in at 166 fully dressed. Damn that skinny dude! No one should really enjoy getting weighed. He didn’t even take off any clothes while I started stripping and kicked off the shoes (no socks because they weigh too much) AND my jacket AND my scarf and still was so depressed to see the numbers keep rolling upward. WTF! I’m skipping dinner tonite and probably every night until I shed some poundage. Of course, $1 pizza and bagels will be allowed on this new diet once we get to Manhattan Saturday and wine is always allowed. Just saying!
Then, it was race time to get to the skin doctor downtown on time. Gravity sucks. Yes, it does dear Dr. T so since you froze that skin cancer off my lip and it hurts like bloody hell, let’s go ahead and stick some needles all over my face and eliminate those wrinkles while we’re at it. Wine please! Stay out of the sun always is my advice-get some of that bronzing lotion and you’ll live longer. Dr. T. did share with me a skin cancer fun fact-Bob Marley died of melanoma skin cancer under his toenail-he thought the streaking under his nail was from stubbing it against his microphone stand while performing. Learn from Bob and check under that red nail polish for skin cancer! So, with white numbing gel on my burned lip and red needle marks on my forehead, we raced off to the eye doctor. I did feel like people moved out of my way quicker with my new truly ugly look going on–should this be my new look when I get back to congested Shanghai so I can get me a seat on the crowded subway??? Probably not.
Dr. G. was quick in determining that my eye “freckle” was not going to blind me any time soon and gave me some free contacts so that stop was a happy one with no pain at all. Score! Now I need to go shopping for some cute non-prescription sunglasses to wear with my contacts. I have Graves Disease with my eyes so I am very sun sensitive and have to wear sunglasses even on cloudy days. No reason to not look trendy though–I’m going for leopard print ones. Animal prints never go out of fashion. I’ve been referred to many times (mainly by my bosses) as a bull dog but I would prefer to resemble a somewhat prettier animal. Roarrrrrrrr!!!!
Finally, the CT scan was our last stop of the day and Thom decided to get a hip/back X-ray to keep me company–got to love our awesome all inclusive, no limit insurance. I wish everyone could have this type of medical care and not have to worry about bills. We are blessed. As the cheery tech put in my IV and ran the machine over me, I said my prayers and looked forward to eating something. They do give you warm blankies while you’re laid out getting radiated so that was cozy on a rainy day. Take the comfort where you can get it.
Bagels with James came afterwards since we were so close to Seattle U. James was busy studying but reluctantly joined us for a little while. We begged.
James joining us for a bagel after the Day of Doctors.
Oh to be a college student with no cares in the world other than learning! I do hope he appreciates this special time in his life. I would love to go to school full time again–what fun to just learn and dream of your whole life ahead of you. Me, I just want to NOT have lung cancer and enjoy my new super cute sunglasses! Simple wishes.
Not to get all preachy or anything but most people worry about all the little crappy stuff happening in their lives and can’t see the big picture–we get very little time here to make a difference and enjoy all the wonders of this world. Lighten up and be happy. Make someone’s day, which will in turn make your day. My motto is: Expect nothing and appreciate everything. Cheers!
Izaak, we miss you buddy! He would like China-the smells would drive him crazy!
I’ve been living in Shanghai now for about six months and it’s starting to feel like home. I wondered what I would miss most about Seattle and, of course, besides our wonderful kids and family, my heart aches for my dog, Izaak, that we had to leave behind with Hannah. Though I know he gets lots of love from Mike & Hannah and his new brother, Ollie, the Great Dane, I miss him so much. Seeing all the dog crazy people this week in Seattle walking their best friends, I was soooo jealous. We will get to see him this weekend when we visit Boise and I’ve already warned Thom he should don a plastic poncho because when Izaak sees him, he is going to jump into his arms for a full body hug and then Thom can expect a warm river of piss to run down his torso as Izaak has a tendency to leak a little when he gets excited. Nothing says love like sharing some warm urine, right? We may not miss that little habit so much but we do miss you buddy.
So, Thom and I are back in Seattle this week, for me to work and for Thom to get a break from China. We notice the culture contrasts constantly. For example, this guy in a bathrobe and slippers came trudging onto our elevator at the hotel, all sweaty from the steam room I presume as there is no pool here (am I painting a pretty picture here?).. a Chinese gentleman, of course. You see, in China, many men in their bathrobes, pj’s and slippers walk in the streets of China every day but here in the U.S., it’s not a regular sight, thank God, especially in a nicer hotel. Thom and I just looked at each other and burst out laughing as he wandered to his room.
Staring out my hotel window overlooking downtown Seattle, I just sighed deeply because the bright lights shining in the darkness of the Seattle night are so crisp and clear compared to the eternal grey fog of China that hangs like a veil over everything. Even on a less than 100 AQI night, the lights don’t “pop” out of the dark like they do here. I miss clean air so much. WINNER: SEATTLE
Thom is very committed to take one photo a day as a personal challenge. Last night before our son James came to visit (and celebrate his upcoming 21st birthday), we walked to Pike Place Market to take some pictures of the bright neon lights. While at no time have I ever felt uncomfortable or in fear of being attacked in China, I definitely felt that way walking the downtown streets of Seattle. Having lived here, I have personally witnessed drug deals, people acting out their mental illnesses and actual physical violence. I have not seen that at all yet in Shanghai. WINNER: SHANGHAI
I just spent an hour in Bartell Drugs, the Walgreens of the Pacific NW, and loaded up a cart of first aid supplies (so we can self medicate when Thom hurts himself, which he always does), cheese, sausage, vitamins, Sudafed (for my newly ruptured ear canal that happened when the plane landed) and other miscellaneous items that I just had to have and could not get in China. I just hope Mr. Customs Officer isn’t hungry when he searches my luggage and finds my horde of treats. WINNER: SEATTLE
Our first night in town, we immediately went to the supermarket and loaded up on deli–cole slaw, potato salad, broccoli salad, cheese, ham, etc. and had a picnic in our beautiful hotel in downtown Seattle. I miss my deli, not being much of a cook. For James early birthday celebration, we got some Cheesecake Factory takeout and watched the Olympics. Staring at the ENORMOUS portions of cheesecake at the front counter of this very popular restaurant, it occurred to me that everything is bigger here. The portions we serve in the USA are huge. Big is not always better (men, and some women, of course might disagree with me on this point) but I do appreciate the confidence I have in eating the food here and drinking the tap water. WINNER: SEATTLE
Stepping outside to go get those huge portions at Cheesecake Factory, the sidewalks seemed quiet and, quite frankly, boring. In Shanghai, every time we step outside we are confronted with a barrage of sites to see. The people watching on the busy sidewalks is always interesting. Dancing on the street corners, morning and night, and the masses living their lives on the sidewalks, eating and socializing, is so completely different than life lived here in our comfy heated homes with kitchens and hot running water–luxuries in China. Just as in NYC, we are never bored in Shanghai. It’s just impossible to see it all but we are giving it a go. WINNER: SHANGHAI
Thom’s beautiful photo of traffic in downtown Seattle.
We laugh at how polite the drivers are in Seattle, giving pedestrians the right of way. Here we feel comfortable stepping into the crosswalks when we have the green light to get to the other side of the street. In Shanghai, that would get you killed. Any time you walk in the street, you better be nimble because you are a magnet for that bus that is bearing down on you, ready to strike you down. That being said, I was stuck in traffic for over an hour in the rain getting home from work in Seattle and was missing my subway to whisk me home. WINNER: TIE-DRIVERS ARE MORE POLITE IN SEATTLE BUT THEY NEED A SUBWAY!
WATER. AIR. SPORTS. DOGS. MOUNTAINS. HIPSTERS. FOOD. Seattle has it all but no one said it would be easy in China. If it was the same, we would be bored and why would we want to be there? So, despite the chaos and pollution, we both feel we made the right choice to experience a new culture and move to a new country. Of course, I just read in The Shanghai Daily online edition that the H7N9 bird flu toll continues to climb. Oh well, I hear fox and donkey meat taste pretty good if chicken is off the menu but perhaps I’ll just stick to veggies and carbs. I’ll let Thom eat the donkey!
After flying all night, I arrived in Seattle this morning for a quick layover before moving on to Las Vegas. I’m going to be in the US for a month on business, just one day after moving into our new apartment in Shanghai. Thom is staying behind to hold down the fort and hopefully get the hot water working before I return.
Already I am sitting in Stumptown coffee on Capital Hill in Seattle and reflecting on the immediate and striking differences between Seattle and Shanghai. First, the internet is blazing fast and I don’t have to VPN out to get on social media. Yipee! You don’t realize how buggy and slow wifi is in China after awhile-you just get used to it. So, score one for Seattle but, wait because Seattle falls short in cleanliness–the streets here are just dirty. In Shanghai, there are government workers on every block sweeping up debris. Here, the leaves have fallen (and it is much colder here!) and no one seems to care. Clean up your act, Seattle!!! Then, there are the Seattle hipsters, dressed in skinny jeans, scarves and facial hair, bringing their large dogs into the coffee shop. What? I can only imagine the tirade that would cause in China–dogs might be the entrée but they certainly aren’t allowed to be customers in restaurants.
I haven’t driven in China, obviously because I value my life, so getting behind wheel of my SUV here was weird and the drivers here actually follow the driving rules. That’s just crazy talk! I immediately went into a grocery store and was shocked at all the cookies, cakes, cupcakes, pies, etc.–no wonder Americans are so fat!!! Honestly, I was brave enough to go to WalMart and Carrefour this week in Shanghai and their few bakery items are in the back of the store not upfront like in the US. No, in China, they feature fruit up front-weird, crazy ass fruit that can smell just awful but I am sure is better for your health than red velvet cakes galore like here.
Seattle seems like such a small, quiet place now. There aren’t hundreds of apartment skyscrapers housing millions of people. There aren’t scooters and the bicycles you see in Seattle are very techie and not outfitted with baskets for groceries. In Shanghai, the bicycles are used for commuting but also for commercial business-it’s incredible what they can haul around town. Thom and I saw the bike pictured above hauling a household of furniture on the streets of Shanghai. Amazingly balanced!
I’m excited to experience the US now through a whole new lens. I will appreciate many things that I have taken for granted I am sure. I have a weird feeling though that this is no longer my home. I miss Shanghai-even with all the chaos, I can’t wait to return and continue our great adventure. That is, if Thom can get the hot water working….if not, I may have to extend my stay here…
Travels with Melinda 