Shanghai Farewell Tour-Dancing in Beihai Park

Dancing is part of the fabric of Asian culture.  I love seeing the ladies dancing every night in pretty much any available space on our neighborhood sidewalks.  You go girls!  In the parks, couples glide gracefully around the pavement on weekends showing off their moves.  From Hanoi to Beijing to Shanghai to Ho Chi Minh City, we have thoroughly enjoyed watching the action but never actively participating until this weekend.  FINALLY! Amazing what our impending move back to the U.S. will do to create a sense of urgency.

I felt the draw of the music and, along with my best friend Patti, who is visiting from the US, we jumped right in and joined the couples at Beihai Park in Beijing on a beautiful sunny Saturday. Thom never got the dancing gene so he took videos while Patti and I took a turn around the pavement.  To think that once we danced as children in our garage back in Indiana when we were growing up and now have the opportunity to waltz together around a Beijing park.  HOT DAMN LIFE IS GOOD! 

Despite having a ball, we were obviously the worst ballroom dancers on the pavement.  Practice makes perfect and I’m betting these folks are out weekly if not daily to get their groove on.  We got lots of stares, grins and the universal thumbs up but when we paused, one couple immediately approached us, pantomiming that the gentleman wanted to dance with Patti or I.  OF COURSE KIND SIR!

Smelling of tobacco and light on his feet, he guided me through the classic moves and off we twirled. I couldn’t help but watch his feet constantly so as to try and follow his lead but he firmly took hold of my hand and waist to guide me as well.   As anyone who knows me can attest, I don’t follow well or at all in any situation.  So, it was a miracle that I didn’t maim him as we moved around the park to the music.   Luckily I had on my trusty lightweight TOMS so I was relatively light on my feet and couldn’t hurt him too bad with my clumsiness.  Thom, Patti and Larry cheered us on and took lots of picture and video. 

As I ended our dance and gave him back to his much more talented partner, I gave him a huge thumbs up and thanked him for sharing this experience in Beihai Park, finally fulfilling a desire to dance like the locals.  Next step, jumping in with the ladies who dance nightly on the corner by my apartment.  I hope I can keep with them and that they are as welcoming to let us take part in their lovely dancing ritual.  Video to come–WHAT FUN!

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Century Park Day

I have always wanted to cycle around Century Park and HOT DAMN-Saturday was the day! With abnormally blue skies and puffy white clouds (am I really in Shanghai??), we set out with Patti & Larry to make my dream come true. The bicycle built for four with a little canopy was all the rage in and around the park. For only 100 RMB an hour (300 RMB deposit) we climbed aboard with Thom at the wheel. Now, with his driving behavior (he drove a NYC cab for God’s sake), this wasn’t the best decision as within yards of staring out, I was screaming out in fear. DON’T RUN OVER THAT CHILD! While we could all pedal, we found out quickly that only the driver really had control over the steering and the brake-note to self, learn these type of things before you decide who will be the driver.

Bicycling around Century Park
Bicycling around Century Park

Quickly, Thom found out he was all powerful and I had no control. WRONG! The locals were letting their small children drive the carts instead of taking control so it was Thom vs. toddlers fighting for space on the broad lanes around the park and lake and Thom soon found out that the toddlers wanted to own the road.  Cool and sunny, the weather was so perfect to enjoy the water and greenery everywhere if we weren’t so frightened that someone was going to get run over by Thom. The folks had already pitched their tents by mid-day and were ready to have a full day of fun in the relatively clean air. We stopped by the bonsai park where really big ass bonsai’s were laid out to walk through. We killed two bonsai’s at our house so I have healthy respect for these massive ones being able to live outside in the normally murky air.

Just a short cab ride away, after jumping aside while the pesticide truck went by spraying chemicals on plants and pedestrians alike, we had a very western lunch at the Blue Marlin. Ensconced in an outdoor mall with the usual H & M and Starbucks, we enjoyed the lovely weather eating outside and wrapping our hands around big honking hamburgers. Not me, of course, since I get sick easily and had already experienced turbulence early in the day so I just had a liquid lunch and a granola bar. For some reason, screwdrivers don’t make me sick. Lucky me!

Happy workers spraying deadly pesticides on bushes and pedestrians alike
Happy workers spraying deadly pesticides on bushes and pedestrians alike

Then, adequately fueled up, we were off to shop the AP market. We were regulars now and have several shop favorites where the ladies are cheerful and give us local pricing vs. the tourist markups. I was able to bargain like a mule for Patti to obtain the necessary souvenirs for loved ones back home. Larry had the misfortune to trust Thom to bargain for him for an item. When told how much he paid, I laughed and thus was given the challenge to go buy the same thing for less to see if I could. Don’t taunt a mule-it turns ugly quick. I was able to get the same item for half the price Thom got. MULE WINS EVERY TIME. Larry will never forgive Thom or forget he overpaid. Thom told him to cost average and let it go.  Lesson learned, Larry!

Tired with bags full of cool stuff for Christmas presents for our loved ones, we eagerly went home to put our feet up. If only every day could be foot massage day!  Oh, wait, we live in China (at least for another month) and we have a VIP Dragonfly Massage Card with a big balance of RMB to use up before we move home so every day IS massage day.  Hallelujah and bring on the masseuses.

The Shanghai Farewell Tour Begins

This the hardest blog post I have ever written and I’ve been avoiding it for days.  Because, if I don’t write about it, it won’t be true. But it’s time to face the truth and move on.  Last Friday, I found out that we would be leaving China two years earlier than I thought. It was sudden news and unexpected to say the least. While I am lucky to still be employed, I almost feel like a part of me has died. I have so loved this great adventure in China. The unusual, always fascinating world swirling around me daily, as I walk to work and travel with Thom will be ending next month and I am sad.

Big Plus to Repatriate-spending time with Hannah!
Big Plus to Repatriate-spending time with Hannah!

Why didn’t we travel more? Why didn’t I work less? I thought the first year here would be the time to dive deeply into the new job and learn and create and work harder than ever. Then, I could enjoy more of this exotic region the next two years with plans to visit Cambodia, Australia, Thailand, Taiwan, and other parts of China over the many Chinese holidays we are given. Alas, we have really only seen Beijing, Nanjing and Shanghai plus Hong Kong. We so enjoyed our visits to Vietnam that I know that other parts of Asia would be equally cool. DAMN. If only….

So, while I am thankful for what I have and the experiences we enjoyed, it is a life lesson to share with all that should be remembered. Enjoy the moment. Live in the day and don’t wait for anything. Yes, you still have to plan for the future but you just never know. So, the next few weeks while we have our friends, Patti and Larry, staying with us from the U.S., we will conduct the Shanghai Farewell Tour and visit new places as well as say good bye to our favorite haunts around China.

This week, I had already scheduled a work trip to Beijing so despite the news, we are still going and I will get to say good bye to the wonderful folks I hired and trained here. I’ll get to take my childhood friend to the Great Wall (my fourth trip) and we will scream all the way down the toboggan there-one of my favorite things to do in China. We will find a panda somewhere to gaze at and maybe even hold for enough RMB—hoping the Shanghai zoo has a few since Patti really, really wants to see one and we’ll enjoy eating out on our gift certificates to various restaurants that we have acquired and, of course, the VIP massage card. Patti is very willing to help us use up the RMB still left on the massage account. Foot massages galore!

So, I will hold back the tears and appreciate everything I have been given. I will look forward to seeing my awesome family more often and spoiling my granddaughter, the beautiful and smart Mia, who is the inspiration for our new online business, Mama and Mia, that we will launch soon with my Hannah creating fashionable headbands that ALL the cool babies will want to wear and personalizing baby quilts from Vietnam and blankets from Uganda—benefitting the women around the world who make them.

Most of all, I will be grateful that I have had a chance to live in a different culture and understand that the world is a big wonderful place that Thom and I will continue to explore from our Seattle base. While one adventure is ending, many more are just beginning! Watch out world-here we come!

 

Ikea Gone Crazy Shanghai Style

Thom and I have crossed the normal threshold of courage on a totally superficial level–we went shopping at Ikea Shanghai on a Sunday.  HOLY. HELL.  We’ve been before so it wasn’t so shocking to see the wall to wall people using Ikea as their personal living room/bedroom/dining room but it never fails to amuse. Not a lot of buying but lots of socializing going on!

Every bed slept in by noon at Ikea
Every bed slept in by noon at Ikea
Taking a nap at Ikea is very popular and comfy
Taking a nap at Ikea is very popular and comfy

The Ikea staff was very absent, probably hiding in the back and wishing for it all to be over with so they could clean up the debris.  There wasn’t any attempt made to keep it looking presentable–it was all out chaos and they must live it every day but especially on Sundays when families are off work and looking to spend quality time together enjoying the fine furnishings, numerous outlets to charge their electronics and plentiful beds to rest at Ikea.  Every bed was completely destroyed, having been slept in by multiple people by the time we arrived around noon.  One toddler slept amidst the noise with his mother browsing on her smart phone and protecting him so he could get a quality nap. He looked very comfy and peaceful.

I was tempted to join the family who had commandeered a dining set to enjoy their packed picnic-what’s for lunch???  Once we got to the Ikea snack bar, you could immediately tell the most popular item(s) in the store–CHEAP FOOD!  We kept right on motoring with our list at hand-hangers, picture frames, napkins, etc. which you can score at normal Ikea prices not boosted with import taxes.  We packed it all in our Ikea bags and luckily found a taxi right outside–never again we keep telling ourselves but the lure of cheap home furnishings and ample photo opportunities to share always lures us back.

Family time--Enjoying picnic in dining room section at Ikea
Family time–Enjoying picnic in dining room section at Ikea

Zumba-Shanghai Style

So, it took me coming to China to go to my first Zumba class!  NOOOOOOO, I couldn’t go in Seattle where there are Zumba classes on every corner.  I kept making lame excuses and not finding the time to make it happen.  FINALLY, I forced myself to go to the free classes conveniently held in our apartment complex gym on Saturdays, which is one of the few Zumba classes offered in Shanghai. Somehow booty shaking Zumba is not as popular as the meditative Tai Chi classes, which Thom and I will go to on Sunday.

My First Zumba Class!
My First Zumba Class!

Zumba was PACKED with women and children-must be the most popular class they teach.  An over-the-top peppy local with endless energy and smiles led us on a hour journey through Bollywood, swing, Bruno Mars and Latin dance moves.  The crowd consisted of 6 to 60 year olds all able to perform the shakes and shimmies with varying degrees of execution.  I immediately went to the back corner of the room, introducing myself to the other wallflower hiding in the corner.  She was from Finland and it was her first class too.  Together we awkwardly followed the swinging hands, hips and head motions that worked up a sweat.  Luckily nobody cared what we were doing because they were having so much fun.   Some of these women were in tip top shape and could bounce a quarter off their abs while others had enjoyed too many carbs in China like me.  I think the diversity here in this class was probably more pronounced than in the U.S. but who knows since I never got my lazy butt to a Zumba class there.

In general, I felt like I got maybe one of many of the moves “right” but it was a good workout that gave my all over muscles a beating.  I am sure I’ll be feeling it tomorrow.  Of course, it’s “Monday Massage Night” soon so we are going to use our gift certificates that expire soon to get two hours of pampering–oils, hot stones, foot massages, OH MY.  Ahhhhh….

The Shoes are Here, The Shoes are Here!

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Red laces and tan leather with wood heels
Red leather accent piece added to the back to "pop" the rear view
Red leather accent piece added to the back to “pop” the rear view
Carved wood soles...a work of art!
Carved wood soles…a work of art!

My handmade shoes finally arrived four weeks after the initial fitting and design and a mid-project fitting of the initial mold.  I was able to take the features of several of the showroom models and design a totally unique lace up, side zip oxford boot in dark tan leather with red laces and red leather back panels and wood soles and heels.  I am in awe of these shoes.  Not only do I love the look but they fit like a dream.  I may never take them off–bury me in these babies!!!  Yan Ye Shoes on Fuxing Road and Mr. Zhao, the manager are the lovely folks responsible for hand crafting these boots for me.  Now, Thom has serious shoe envy so I am sure he will hot foot it over there and design his own soles of heaven soon.  Now excuse me while I take these puppies out for a stroll…

 

Handmade and one of a kind-designed by ME!
AFTER PICTURE–Handmade and one of a kind-designed by ME!
This is the mold they made for the first fitting.
BEFORE PICTURE-This is the mold they made for the first fitting.

She Works Hard For Her Money

Even in China, you can find “organic” fruit being touted, though Thom and I know it probably comes from the same field by the highway just like all fruit.  That being said, we really can’t see paying 3x the price for the organic label so, after trying it both ways, we went back to buying from our local fruit lady in our neighborhood.

Every day, from morning to late at night, she sits on the corner by our apartment selling fruit out of the back of her van.  Assisted by probably family, they weigh the produce and bargain with you on the price, sometimes throwing in an extra banana or two if they overcharge.  When Thom buys, this is always what happens because he hates to bargain.

James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady
James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady

The fruit tastes delicious and, if it is raised in contaminated soil with the aid of polluted water then so be it.  As Fiona, our language teacher has taught us, “In China you can die fast or you can die slow-you pick.”. If the fruit doesn’t kill us, all the carbs we eat will so it’s time to enjoy a juicy peach and throw caution to the wind.

Our fruit lady was anxious to know if James was our son.  She pointed to him and then to us with a big smile.  Yes-we were blessed with a son, which always goes over big here.  Of course, we have a gorgeous daughter as well but here in China, the message is always clear-boys are special and men are in charge.

When we were at Tai Chi, after class we lingered to chat with the fellow participants.  The ladies were off talking while Thom and I talked to the guys.  They immediately turned to Thom and asked what he did for a living.  Smiling his huge grin, Thom loves to tell people, “I follow her and support her” pointing to me. The dudes let that sink in and then their eyes turned to me.  “What do YOU do?”. I don’t believe I’ve ever had a man or woman turn to me FIRST when I’m with Thom to ask why we had moved to China.  They ALWAYS assume it is for Thom’s career.  Just a cultural thing that I’ve gotten used to here.

Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom
Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom

My fruit lady is also in charge at her job and works so hard to sell her produce but always has a smile on her face.  She’s an excellent business woman who understands customer service and that the little things matter like the extra banana thrown in the bag for regular customers or that offering a sample of the grapes will yield larger sales.  Kudos to you, my dear!  You work hard for your money and deserve every RMB you get from Thom–I’m actually okay that he doesn’t bargain with you.  I’m sticking with you for my fruit, even if it kills me.

The Mooncakes are Here! The Mooncakes are here!

Mooncakes are EVERYWHERE.  Somehow the main celebration for the MId-Autumn Festival this weekend in China is centered on a not-so-tasty pastry.  The hell with the mooncakes!!!  Thom and I have decided to celebrate this holiday by going to Vietnam instead of eating pasty carbs but, hey, we’re rebels.  What can I say-Ho Chi MInh City, baby, here we come!

Mooncake stamped with rabbit imprint to signify the moon
Mooncake stamped with rabbit imprint to signify the moon

But back to mooncakes–the front page of the Shanghai Daily featured a huge picture of long lines of people lined up outside waiting to buy popular mooncakes at a bakery.  Monday, I got my first mooncake gift from a co-worker.  The beautiful tin box featured a rabbit motif.  After I consulted Wiki, I know understand that rabbits represent the moon so that makes more sense.  I cut open the really heavy small cake (4 to a box and they weigh a ton!) and saw the inner burst of color.  I tasted that part first but it was really flavorless–Wiki says it is probably an egg yolk, maybe duck egg, symbolizing the full moon.

Our mooncake tasting with egg yolk in middle surrounded by lotus bean paste
Our mooncake tasting with egg yolk in middle surrounded by lotus bean paste

Thom, James and I all participated in mooncake tasting together.  Since each cake has 1,000 calories, I’m glad I only had one bite or I’d be at the gym all week working off the damn mooncake flab.  It tasted like mild peanut butter but maybe that is what lotus seed paste tastes like.  I have nothing to compare it to yet.  I do know that despite complaints that mooncake sales are down dramatically due to controls on government bribes, the lines are still pretty long at all bakeries so I’m not sure that strategy is working for them.  Even Starbucks sells them–always in gift boxes as they are presents to bestow on people you want to gain weight quickly.

So, happy Mid-Autumn Festival everyone.  Lots of stories to come this weekend from Vietnam.  Scooters galore!

More mooncake info than anyone needs or wants to know, according to Wiki:

Mooncake (simplified Chinese: 月饼; traditional Chinese: 月餅; pinyin: yuè bĭng) is a Chinese bakery product traditionally eaten during the Mid-Autumn Festival (Zhongqiujie). The festival is for lunar worship and moon watching, when mooncakes are regarded as an indispensable delicacy. Mooncakes are offered between friends or on family gatherings while celebrating the festival. The Mid-Autumn Festival is one of the four most important Chinese festivals.

Typical mooncakes are round pastries, measuring about 10 cm in diameter and 3–4 cm thick. This is the Cantonese mooncake, eaten in Southern China in Guangdong, Hong Kong, and Macau. A rich thick filling usually made from red bean or lotus seed paste is surrounded by a thin (2–3 mm) crust and may contain yolks from salted duck eggs. Mooncakes are usually eaten in small wedges accompanied by Chinese tea. Today, it is customary for businessmen and families to present them to their clients or relatives as presents,[1] helping to fuel a demand for high-end mooncake styles. The energy content of a mooncake is approximately 1,000 calories or 4,200 kilojoules (for a cake measuring 10 cm (3.9 in)), but energy content varies with filling and size.[2]

 Most mooncakes consist of a thin, tender pastry skin enveloping a sweet, dense filling, and may contain one or more whole salted egg yolks in their center as the symbol of the full moon. Very rarely, mooncakes are also served steamed or fried.

Traditional mooncakes have an imprint on top consisting of the Chinese characters for “longevity” or “harmony”, as well as the name of the bakery and the filling inside. Imprints of the moon, the Lady Chang’e on the moon, flowers, vines, or a rabbit (symbol of the moon) may surround the characters for additional decoration.

Mooncakes are considered a delicacy as production is labor-intensive and few people make them at home. Hence, most prefer to buy them from commercial outlets, which may range from smaller individual bakery shops to high-end restaurants. The price of mooncakes usually ranges from US$10 to US$50 for a box of four, although cheaper and more expensive mooncakes can also be found.[original research?]

You won’t believe this story!!!

So, I have written before about flying within China on local airlines and how scary it is but as I read the article in the Shanghai Daily today, I was once again shocked at the lack of safety and common sense.  Holy. Hell.

I’ll summarize but you can read it for yourself at:  http://www.shanghaidaily.com/national/No-smoke-without-ire-on-flight-to-Beijing-/shdaily.shtml

So, a passenger was smoking in the bathroom on a flight to Beijing from Chengdu.  Are you outraged and shocked?  Don’t be-happens all the time.  The flight attendant actually had the backbone to take away his cigarettes and matches (you think???) and probably yelled at him for drama and good measure for making his job difficult.

Later after the flight was diverted due to bad weather in Beijing and they had to refuel in Taiyuan, the Boeing 737 with 150 passengers had to have a refueling on the runway while they waited to take off again on their journey.  While this was going on, not one BUT FIVE passengers were seen smoking at the open cabin door next to the oil tanker. Can you say, “BOOM!”

What did the crew do?  Did they immediately arrest the passengers and stop this crazy stupid behavior?  No way–they did nothing according to the story in the paper.  WHAT???  After passengers called the police and they talked to the captain, he declined to do any security checks because he was “already badly behind schedule”.    I guess the captain was quoted as saying, “They can smoke as long as I agree.”.   If the plane had blown up due to these passengers bad behavior, then he might have had to rethink his logic.  Maybe if he wasn’t toast.

Of course, passengers asked for compensation for their distress and were given 1,800 Yuan and a refund of their ticket.  Luckily, they also got to walk away with their lives.  Asked how the matches made it through security checks, the Chengdu airport said it would try to improve.  Here’s hoping as the only way to get to Chengdu is to fly and I’m sure I’ll be going there at some point for work.  Maybe I should pack a fire extinguisher in my carry on–I know security will probably let it through and it might come in handy.

Bargaining Should Be An Olympic Sport

Today we ventured out to the AP “fake” market in Shanghai under the #2 subway line in Pudong.  We have been there many times to buy pearls, sports jerseys, Rolex watches, LV bags, etc.  I see bargaining for the lowest possible price as a sport.  I just wish it was an Olympic sport because I would totally own a Gold Medal.

Our mission was hunting for stylish yet waterproof rain boots for me.  With my commute of 1.3 miles each way to/from work and no taxis in sight when it rains, I am tired of stepping in the lakes that form quickly in the streets resulting from the city planners–shocker ahead–obviously not realizing that it rains heavily in Shanghai many months of the year. Where the hell did they imagine all that water was going to go???

Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market
Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market

Anyway, we went straight to our “shoe lady” who has sold us many a Converse-like shoe in the past.  She gives us the local price not the laowai inflated price and she has a nice smile.  Today, James found some nice leather sneaks but, after trying on hideous Croc-like rubber boats to keep my feet dry, we had to keep looking.  The popular Hunter boots were everywhere but I’ve had those (Hannah now looks splendid in them) and they’re just too hot and heavy for Shanghai.  Unfortunately, nothing else really else presented itself except a leopard plastic boot that I just couldn’t bring myself to like.  So, after heavy negotiating I got a short version of the Hunter mock lizard which will make my feet sweat like a bitch but perhaps will be waterproof–with the fakes, you never know what quality you’re getting until you wear/wash them.  They may last and they may not.  I told the guy I lived in Shanghai and would be back in his face if my feet got wet wearing his boots that I got for 160RMB.   He just smiled and waved goodbye.  He has no idea what’s in his future if my feet aren’t happy in the next monsoon.  Watch out mister!

Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market
Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market

Since my birthday was this past week and I ended up sick instead of celebrating, I decided to treat myself and give Sarah’s Pearls a visit because I just know they miss my bargaining like a mule which makes Thom cringe.  After seeing a long turquoise(like) and silver necklace, I knew it would look super with a simple black dress so into the lovely sequin bag it went for only 100 RMB–she started at 280 RMB.  Like a mule I am!

After negotiating for a brightly patterned pillow cover–I do have a serious pillow fetish for our boring beige couches–we started looking at custom made trench coats to accompany my new rain boots.  I’ll have to do some research on styles but I shopped for pricing and found I could get one for about 600 RMB (down from 2400) custom made in a few days.  SOLD!  Can’t wait to go back and order when my friend Patti visits.  I’m sure she’ll want some custom clothes too and I can get a better deal if we buy multiple items.  I truly do deserve a Gold Medal in bargaining because I save so much money that I can just keep on shopping, shopping, shopping!