Holy. Hell. We landed in Hanoi and immediately inhaled a smell that made a lasting impression and not in a good way. The humid hot air enveloped us as we climbed into the car for a long ride to the hotel, Calypso Grand, in the Old Quarter. In the darkness, I could make out very rundown French style buildings yet could see big screen TV’s in many apartments. The billboards screamed technology–Samsung, Panasonic, Sony, etc. but the vibe was more like being stuck in the 1950’s. The Vietnamese love karaoke bars and massage parlors just as much as the Chinese do–they are everywhere!
Café on the corner by our hotel
Scooters dominate the streets and here they are family vehicles, accommodating Mom, Dad and the baby. There are no street lights or traffic signals and it’s even more crazy than China. It’s the last day of the Tet Holiday and everyone was on the street squatting on little plastic stools eating their dinners late into the evening. We walked by buildings to peer inside, seeing decay on the outside and a much more renovated interior, many with circular staircases and one with a Porsche parked on the first floor.
Calypso Grand Hotel in Hanoi-yes, rose petals on the bed!
At our hotel, we were greeted with a smile and told to sit down emphatically so we could be served a fresh fruit welcome drink. Our room was very charming with a French balcony overlooking the busy street. There are no big chain hotels, only small boutique hotels lining the streets. We immediately stowed our bags and hit the streets, literally in Thom’s case as he fell walking off a rugged curb and sprained his ankle. The streets and sidewalks are all broken and hard to walk on especially at night. He’s sitting here now with a cold Coke can on his ankle trying to stop the swelling. No Walgreen’s on the corner for the needed items–we will learn to pack more medical supplied in the future.
Thom rocking his dragon T-shirt
Being a trooper and not wanting to go back to the hotel immediately, Thom hung in there and we sat at the café on the corner where we watched the scooter parade and enjoyed some tea/wine. Tomorrow, we leave early to go to Ha Long Bay to enjoy an overnight cruise on a junk boat. I can’t wait to see Vietnam by daylight!
It’s surreal to think I am enjoying the Super Bowl in Shanghai this morning-Go Seahawks-and then will be eating dinner tonight in Hanoi, Vietnam. WHAT! I’m just a simple Midwestern gal. People like me marry young and never move from their hometown. Certainly a nice life but not for me. In this second chapter of my life with the kids all grown up, I chose to risk it all. Instead of leading a predictable, safe existence, I deliberately put myself out there daily with a goal that when I die, I’m just exhausted. How did this happen?
Road Warrior
I guess it all started when I jumped off the cliff of life, leaving my “safe” job with a company I had been with for fourteen years and challenging myself to join a start-up that had the potential to keep me from eating cat food in my retirement or it could have failed just as easily. Coin toss! It has not been a cake walk for sure but along with all the tears of frustration amid feeling incredibly stupid as I learned, there have been the highs of making a difference in other people’s lives with precious moments that I will never forget. Those moments I cherish and remind me what’s really important. I am humbled daily and am constantly aware that everyone knows more than me and it usually takes me longer to figure some stuff out so I have to work harder than most but I’ve learned to just keep at it and never, ever give up. I’ve also accepted that I have to ask for help at times-tough for me to do. I’m the one who offers to help, not ask for it.
Leaving family behind to take on this China Challenge, I have had tears and guilt but when my son tells me that he thinks we lead the coolest life, I can only hope that I am setting a good example to my kids to take chances and live a life full of surprises and adventure. When my dad died, it was a wake up call to remind me to appreciate every precious moment that we have here. You truly never know when it will be your turn to pass. You cannot control the end but you can control the now. You can try to find joy in the simplest things every day and every moment. This I try to do.
So, off to Vietnam I go to have yet another great adventure with my travel partner aka the love of my life. I will savor the journey and the smiles that Thom will inevitably elicit from the Vietnam locals with his antics and goofy smile. More to come!
Holy. Crap. Midnight arrived with a BIG ASS BANG a few minutes ago. Waves of toxic fumes are rolling down the streets and the noise is deafening as everyone with a lighter is setting off firecrackers. I even saw eruptions of fire being thrown out of high rise windows. Here is what it is like to experience CNY in Shanghai and I am told it lasts all night long:
On a quieter note, it has been interesting learning the traditions and superstitions surrounding Chinese New Year or CNY as we “locals” call it. CNY has been celebrated for more than 4,000 years so there are ALOT of them. 2014 is the year of the horse so everywhere you look, there are horses for sale. Mine had to be sparkly and cute of course. To bring good luck and immediate money, you put money on the horse’s back. Done and done.
My good luck pony!
It is also necessary to wear red to counter bad luck, and many find it necessary to wear red underwear and a red string around the waist or wrist plus wearing a gold necklace is said to have spiritual power to conquer evil spirits. Done and done. Red also plays a role in the legends that monsters feared the color red so all CNY decorations are red to ward off monsters. GOOD TO GO! Other dos, don’ts and symbols include:
*Chinese New Year’s Eve. You should only speak positive and lucky words. Firecrackers are supposed to be set off at midnight. I heard an incoming whistle followed by a huge bang at 8 p.m. so somebody didn’t get the message. The monsters in Chinese legends fled when lighted bamboo made loud cracking noises so thus the custom of firecrackers going off. I also heard that the sound attracts the god of money to your house on the fourth day when more fireworks go off. Lots of money and no monsters result in an AQI of 500+ from the toxic fumes let off by the firecrackers. Everything in life is a trade off. I’m buying a new designer air mask with all the money I will receive from my good fortune lucky pony.
*Chinese New Year’s Day. People get up early today and set off MORE FREAKING FIREWORKS! Because the AQI of 500+ hasn’t dissipated yet so WTF. There are also many taboos like you can’t sweep because good luck can be swept away for the new year—no problem, our ayi has the day off. Pink got her “red envelope” which is a bonus you give those who work for you and hopefully she is enjoying some time off with her family. She keeps our house clean and we miss her. You are also not allowed to use sharp tools, take out garbage, wash anything or take a bath—all actions that could negatively affect your luck in the new year. I plan to stay in my PJ’s all day and have a movie marathon while waiting out the air quality to improve.
*Every day following CNY has significance and many, many, many rules. Many shops and restaurants are closed for at least five days to observe the holiday, though many workers have to go home for several weeks to visit relatives. The seventh day after CNY is the day of the Ren Ri or Human Day. Legend has it that the goddess Nu Wa created creatures in 2 days- chickens first, followed by dogs, pigs, sheep, cattle, horses and humans. I’m thinking cats should be in there too since they act so superior??? Supposedly if you eat qi bao geng which is a congee made of 7 vegetables or fruits on this day you will rid your body of pathogenic energies. Hopefully this dinner will cleanse me of all the toxins caused by the fricking firecracker pollution. Of course, I will be in Vietnam on this day enjoying our vacation with warm weather and hopefully cleaner air.
CNY has arrived with a BANG!
*CCTV (China government TV) runs a huge TV special all night with TV stars and singers on Chinese New Year’s Eve. It is a huge tradition like the ball dropping in Times Square minus Ryan Seacrest. Unfortunately, our on again/off again TV service has decided to be “off” tonite so we won’t get to watch it. So sad—I guess we will just have to continue our VEEP marathon instead. Selina Meyers, you make me laugh so hard I’m crying or is that the pollution making my eyes tear up…..next year, I’ll plan on being out of the country for the whole holiday but, for now, we are going to sit back, insert the ear plugs and pray for a cease fire soon.
Let me paint you a picture of a Chinese airport—it is one big ass smoking lounge because there are no rules against it, really just suggestions. Watch where you walk too because, especially in the winter with everyone in China choking on the air, the phlegm is flying everywhere. Need a Peking duck or hairy crabs (in season only) to take home to Momma—no problem, whether fish or fowl, it can be purchased for gift giving at the airport. The planes at least looked like familiar to their U.S. counterparts but that unnatural shaking that broke loose when we landed on the tarmac in Beijing made me wonder if these suckers were made of wood because it sounded like the nails were popping loose—get some super glue or wrap this baby in duct tape before I fly again please. The bullet train is looking better all the time, though I was told that it flipped a few years ago killing many. Choices, choices!
Making friends at 1 a.m. on bus to terminal
Finally landing in Beijing at 1 a.m. after the usual delays (I guess 80% or so of all flights are delayed due to unnaturally thick air or whatever) and expecting to walk into a terminal, I knew I was in trouble when the cold air hit me smelling like diesel fuel and I realized the journey was far from over.
We were herded onto a packed bus to get to the terminal. Joy! This after my initiation into in-country air etiquette in China that dictates that you jump up instantly and jam the aisles with elbows out to gain position to push your way out. It’s a game really and commuting on the subway every day makes me a player for this clusterf*&# of epic proportions. A jab here and elbow there plus the correct blocking style with my luggage and no one is getting around this little woman.
My oasis
Shanghai to Nanjing to Beijing and back. For now, this will be a frequent circuit for me. Of course this is China so commuting is an adventure every time with surprises along the way that make you say ahhhhhh. Getting to the Grand Hyatt in Beijing, I staggered to the room and tried to calm down and get some sleep. A beautiful hotel located near the Forbidden City, the pool is RIDICULOUS and like a tropical heaven. Not that I thought of packing a swim suit or had time to relax but who knew that an oasis liked this could exist in cold, grey Beijing! I can’t wait to go back in February and bring Thom along so he can walk to all his favorite hutongs and take photos of life in China. That is, if I can get his ass off the pool lounger where I predict he will be residing especially once he learns that room service delivers poolside and the wifi is free.
Off with his head!
I also got to experience eating Peking Duck for the first time. Lucky me got a prime seat across from the open air kitchen at Made In China, the really gorgeous hotel restaurant that is famous for this dish. The whole process from oven to table is very ceremonial. The browned duck is swung out of the wood stocked fire pit by the chef and, in front of the viewing window with great fanfare, he deftly sliced off the duck’s head and instantly the dam broke loose and tons of fluid gushed out of the bird. Yum! Drained dry, the waiter then brings the carcass to the table and slices it up for you to eat with little pancakes and various accoutrements like plum sauce/ginger/cucumber/sugar/mustard. Avian Flu be damned—I ate me some crispy duck and I liked it. I am trying to be more adventurous in my food choices as I haven’t projectile vomited for awhile so I think it’s overdue. Who knows—maybe I’ll try the scorpions next! I am sure in Vietnam, where we are going next week, there will be an opportunity to try out crazy stuff. Stay tuned!
Hopefully, we will survive the firecrackers tonight on Chinese New Year and the ensuing pollution. So far a few have gone off sounding like rapid gun fire and the pollution is so bad I can’t see across the river. Multiply that by a thousand and I hear that is what we will be experiencing. Thom vows to run out and take photos of the chaos but I am staying inside and will emerge only if my wine runs out. Cheers!
We love going to Trivia Night at the Camel Bar in Pudong every Tuesday Night. To make sure we are up-to-date on local news that might be included in the quiz, we read the Shanghai Daily. Here are some of the fun stories from this past week:
“Smartphones? Better than sex!” Love this poll that showed the difference between China and the US in how Chinese women use social media including: follow boss—China 41% vs. US 8% and find love China 44% vs. US 12%. Stalkers aplenty at work and at home! Yes, of the Chinese women polled, “..almost half of them would rather abstain from sex for a month than give up their mobile devices..” Hmmmm…..
“Mutton eateries thrive in cold weather” Who doesn’t want a hot steaming pot of mutton when it gets cold? Well, no shortage of mutton in China thank goodness because “Mutton is thought to be a healthy food that reinforces yang, or hot energy, which is considered a masculine force in Traditional Chinese Medicine.” Who knew—manly mutton???
Let’s take the monkey’s seat too! Ladies Unite!
“Women call for more places to go” Ladies unite! It seems that women are rebelling and asking for more toliets in China because “long waits are not good for the health.” You think? Also, men are just peeing in the bushes and not even using what toliets they do have here so why don’t we just take over their facilities. Ladies, join with me to express the need for more seats!
This cat that I saw at the paper store looks happy but who really knows??
“Community love flows for cat rescued from pipe.” I laugh at how the news stories are not just about the facts—they inject personal opinion and speculation to keep us amused. This story detailed how “..he’s a happy cat despite all his issues.” How do you measure a cat’s happiness is what I want to know…quite frankly, most of the cats I have met have a serious attitude but I suppose a few might be considered happy. Maybe.
“Down jacket saves drunk woman from drowning.” After a night of drinking, “She was drunk and could not let her problems go…” I’m thinking that down doesn’t float and when it gets wet, it gets heavy like an anchor but okay. Still, I wouldn’t recommend a down jacket as my go-to floatation device.
“Commuters go half naked” Yes, even in China, locals participated in the No Pants Subway Ride recently. As one guy related, “I want to show that (Chinese people) are internationalized now…But people say I’m a psycho..” and cold too!
Always entertaining and educational, I’ll keep reading the local news and hopefully our team, the Gryffindor Geeks, will continue to rack up some serious trivia points!
Off to Beijing and Nanjing tonight for work trip…more stories to come as I head up North for adventures!
Wouldn’t life be better if we started our days dancing like these folks do? Every morning I walk by this grooving group of locals on my way to the subway and admire their grace and smooth moves. Enjoy and have a happy day!
I don’t claim to be an expert on China but I have survived for four months now living in Shanghai so that has to count for something, right? If I can download some useful information to visitors and expats coming here and save a life or two, I will consider this a worthy post. Now, on to life in Shanghai. This is a fascinating country in the throes of constant change. I appreciate the history, culture and people. I hope you will enjoy your trip or relocation here. If you follow my tips, your experience in China may be better and you will have wonderful memories to bring home. Pack that air mask and off you go!
Buses own the road-they drive fast and won’t slow down for pedestrians. Stay out of their way!
TRAFFIC Drawing on wisdom from Patches O’Houlihan “if you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball”, my new daily motto has become: If you CAN’T dodge a bus, YOU COULD DIE, Shanghai style.
Cars park on the sidewalk because they can.
Yes, it’s nuts and crazy without any rules. Pedestrians NEVER have the right of way here. Ever. Your driver (hopefully you won’t try to drive yourself) will go on the wrong side of the road when he is impatient with how traffic is moving. And, he will do a U-turn almost anywhere even on crowded narrow streets. I just watched a huge truck do a six point U-turn on a four lane busy road, holding up traffic just because he could. Bus drivers are out to get you–stay far, far away from them. Scooters and bikes (none have headlights) will be a more painful, slower death but if you’re nimble, you can dodge them. I have had many a scooter rider actually touch me as they whizzed by and cut in front of me. Don’t think because you have the “green walk light” that you are safe—this means nothing. NEVER CHANGE DIRECTION. There are scooters and bikes on the sidewalks too and they will mow you down if you suddenly move. Most run pretty quiet so you can’t even hear them coming. I have gotten into the habit of looking everywhere-front, sides and behind before I move in any direction. So far, I’m still alive so my strategy is working! If you do get hit or are in a car accident, here are some words of wisdom—RUN!!! You are on your own if you get hurt so try to find a cab to take you to the nearest hospital and don’t leave home without having directions (in Chinese) to a Western style hospital with you at all times. There really aren’t ambulances so get a taxi. If you are in a car accident, throw money at the taxi driver and RUN!!! As the Laowai, you may be held accountable for any accident and may have to pay for it—yes, you weren’t driving but this is China and they could assume you have money. GET OUT! If you are on the highway/tunnel, you may not be able to run-good luck. If you see someone hit or hurt and help them, you may be held accountable and may have to pay for their injuries even though you didn’t have anything to do with it because they assume if you help, you must feel guilty because you are responsible. This is China! It doesn’t have to make sense….RUN! GETTING AROUND
Riding the ferries takes courage but they are fast.
The subways are crowded and crawling with a million hacking people. However, the subways are cheap, have English signing and can get you around quickly. I use them every day-wear a mask and bring hand sanitizer. You can buy a metro card at the staffed booth—a ride is usually 3-7 RMB ($1 US=6 RMB). Green lights signal that a taxi is available. There are usually no functioning seatbelts so brace yourself and hang on tight. Drivers do not speak any English-I use a mobile app, Hi Shanghai Taxi!, and it has a list of all the restaurants, hotels, etc. with taxi directions in Chinese. Works great! I also learned quickly the Mandarin way to say stop, left/right, etc. and now I can actually speak to the drivers. Taxi’s can be hard to get but try flagging them down on the street or at a hotel—then, give up after awhile and take the subway. Don’t take the ferries—you may live but it will scare you to death as they dodge the coal boats running up and down the Hungpao River. Just not worth it unless you want to be scared shitless especially at night as none of the boats use lights. Really. MONEY/CREDIT CARDS/PHONES You’re going to need to LOTS of money to buy all those fake Prada bags and Mao pillows to take home. We got an international credit card that didn’t charge transaction fees, which can add up quickly. This way, we can go to any ATM and get out local currency (RMB) from our U.S. account. If you are moving here, I would highly recommend such an account. We got a local credit card account too so we could order online from China websites like Taobao and that had “Union Pay” access which lets us use it like a debit card. Banks are everywhere and a safe place to exchange your money for local currency. You will have to communicate while you are here so just go to any newstand on the corner and get a sim card to use while in China. You have to have an unlocked phone (get this done with your phone carrier before you leave your home country), pop out your current sim and put in the new one. Easey peasy! Make sure you know if you have a micro sim or standard size sim card. The vendor should be able to punch out the size you need to accommodate. The SIM card should cost you 100 RMB for limited prepaid service. WeChat is the hot social texting app here in China. WeChat has become our “go to” for group chats and staying in touch in country and back home with our family. POLLUTION
View from my apartment on a “hazy” day-AQI 200+Tale of 2 air filters-white two months ago, black now with air particulate matter. Cough, cough!
Yes, it’s that bad. Our air filters in our super clean, never open a window ever, apartment turned black after 2 months and they should have lasted at least 6 months, at least in a first world country. Bring air masks with you or go to any Watson’s (the Walgreen’s of China) and buy one immediately. You never know when the AQI will soar and you should be prepared. There are mobile apps to confirm that the grey sky you are seeing is toxic-anything over 150 is really bad so get out the mask. Most people smoke in China because, really, why not? Our lungs will look like tar after a short while so you might as well smoke too. My friend who works here from the US gets 15% hazard pay on top of his salary. I would expect we are losing 15% a year of our life expectancy so that’s probably fair. At least I won’t have to worry about saving for my retirement. FOOD SAFETY
Roasting nuts in an open fire on the sidewalk. Cool for photos, not so cool for food safety.
Never, ever drink tap water. Buy the most Western branded bottled water you can find and use it for everything including to brush your teeth or wash off fruit/vegetables. Never, ever eat street food. I walk these streets daily and I can’t even begin to tell you the horror stories of non-existent food prep standards. Every day in the paper you read stories about reusing old oil to cook, subbing out fox for donkey at Wal-Mart, etc. There are Western groceries and restaurants that we frequent where we think it is probably better—City Shop grocery, Fresh Elements, Baker & Spice, even McDonald’s has some standards and Starbucks are everywhere. My boss gave me good advice that you should only eat where it is crowded because the grill will be hot—in an empty place, the grill will be cold so your food won’t be cooked right. Makes sense! You cannot buy OTC meds here-none-so bring Tylenol, Stomach Stuff, etc. or you will be sorry. Watson’s is the Walgreen’s of China but they only carry skin whitener (big here) and lotions/potions and nothing to help stop diarrhea, which you will get. Just hope you don’t throw up in a potted plant at the airport like I did after eating something bad. A moment I will never forget! BATHROOMS Work out those thigh muscles ladies because they still have squats in some public restrooms in buildings even in big cities like Shanghai. Yes, a “squat” is a hole in the floor that you have to use. Try doing it in heels and Spanx-I did but not by choice. When you have to go, you have to go. Always bring toliet paper/tissue and hand sanitizer with you. If you have to go, try to find a high end hotel or mall. Being a foreigner, they won’t question you and their bathrooms are quite nice. The Hotel Andaz even has heated toilet seats in their lobby restroom—I love my Toto Japanese toilet!!! TAKE OFF THOSE SHOES Phlegm flies everywhere in China. I had read about this happening but living here I have experienced dodging gobs of it–you hear it coming (cough, hack, cough) and then you RUN! With all the pollution, I have to say that I understand why it’s going on all over town but perhaps a new habit of hacking into a tissue should begin. You will also see cab drivers peeing by the side of the road everywhere and toddlers being held up to pee in the trashcans. Yep. That’s one good reason why there is a tradition here to take off your shoes as you enter your home because you have other people’s DNA all over your soles from walking the streets. GENERAL SAFETY You don’t need to carry your passport on you ever unless leaving the country or travelling within the country. They will ask for it at a new hotel. I leave my passport in a safe-all the hotels have them in the rooms and I have one now in my apartment. Use the safe for anything you leave in your room like technology, etc. It probably would be fine because theft is rare but it would be a pain in a foreign country so better safe than inconvenienced. I do feel perfectly comfortable walking the streets at night alone albeit having to dodge traffic. There is little street violence or crime. Thom witnessed a pick pocket on the street but only once—just keep your handbag across your body and walk with purpose. Always carry a map with you-most people will not speak English or think to help you if you are lost. We try to always help Laowai’s who look lost but most locals will not, probably because they don’t speak English.
Pack your sense of humor and air mask and join me in China!
Some people might be scared off by all these warnings but it would be a shame not to travel to this wonderfully complex evolving country that is so rich with traditions, (and also superstitions), history, beautiful sights and interesting people. Be forewarned, plan carefully and pack wisely. Yes, you could die but are you really safe anywhere? Life is short! Keep your sense of humor and marvel at all the crazy things you will see if you get out and walk the streets of Shanghai. I look forward to each and every day of my wonderful adventure here. Join me in China!
I got to play tourist late this afternoon with Thom! After yesterday’s soul-crushing and cough inducing pollution AQI 250+, we needed a break and, surprise, we got a beautiful sunny day with AQI under 100, which in Shanghai is good though in the U.S. it would be considered unhealthy. What can I say–our standards have slipped drastically since moving to China. After doing my work duty checking out the competition, we walked down Nanjing Road East to the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel. We have been meaning to experience this tourist trap since we moved here and finally we took the gondola through the psychedelic light show. Reminiscent of Pirates of the Caribbean but China-style, we were treated to weird commentary in English and a relatively quick trip under the Haungpu River as we marveled at the colorful lights pulsating on the walls.
While this is truly just for tourists–the ferry across the river for locals runs 2 RMB vs. this trip was 50 RMB, which is a big difference to the average citizen–it was something you should experience if you are visiting the city. Arriving near the Pearl Tower, the iconic highly photographed anchor to downtown Pudong, we walked home under sunny skies enjoying a beautiful Shanghai day!
Hennessy Artistry ConcertShanghai Mercedes Benz Arena
Free VIP Tickets and Free Hennessy cognac cocktails! Hello, date night! Thom and I experienced another side of Shanghai last night attending the Hennessy Artistry concert at Shanghai Mercedes Benz Arena. Walking the red carpet and entering as VIP’s thanks to one of my co-worker’s connections, once again we were spoiled to be standing right by the stage to enjoy artists from around the world. Most were winners of X-Factor like contests and all were wonderful including Rebecca Ferguson from the UK and The Dickpunks from Korea. Yes, that’s really their names and they rocked it out with a Beatles-like feel and look.
Thom enjoying the view by the stage.Hipster famous China rock star hanging with us by the stage. Love the bow tie and plaid jacket!
The hipsters were out and rocking all the latest fashion. I saw lots of sequins, Doc Martens, skinny pants, boots, bow ties, plaid and Thom was rocking his kangol hat. At one point, they interviewed one of the performers next to us at the bar by the stage. Thom, looking so cool, was standing next to her and showing his big smile up on the jumbotron for all to see. He is so spoiled! Then, a band from China complete with silver metallic leggings tucked into their boots and fur accented jackets stood next to me to get their press pictures taken. Since we were one of the few Laowai’s there, I think they liked including us in their press photos. We made a friend from France who was with the event coordinator and Thom enjoyed talking Shanghai expat stories with him. When he found out we moved over here without ever having visited, he remarked how “brave” we were. He was probably really thinking that we are crazy but what an interesting life you can lead when you appreciate every moment of every day as an opportunity to experience new things!
I, of course, worked my way up to the special leather couches up front only to be told politely that this area was reserved seating for the Hennessy executives at the event. No problem! The lovely event coordinator introduced me to her boss, who was rocking thick black framed glasses and a fedora plus a metallic shirt, and we became friends when I won him over with a big smile. You do get much better treatment when you’re nice vs. acting entitled or being demanding. He escorted us to the bar instead to enjoy “the best seats in the house” PLUS immediate access to the various complimentary cognac cocktails being liberally pushed upon us because, after all, the concert was really a big marketing event for Hennessy and extremely well done to seduce all the rich Chinese to buy their liquor. I was happy to sample the offerings and enjoyed the apple and berry concoctions. Cognac and The Dickpunks…just another night in Shanghai!
There was a towering gold horse, of course, with smoke streaming out his huge bedazzled nostrils (what the Hell, might as well add to the hazy polluted skies) as well as Snow White & the Dwarfs, Mary & Joseph, the Easter Bunny and many other sequined and totally unconnected characters all featured at Yu Yuan Gardens in an over-the-top Chinese New Year Celebration for the Year of the Horse. It didn’t make any sense whatsoever but it was quite the show that you just have to experience to believe so I shot some video for you:
Crazy, right? This is THE place to see Chinese New Year decorations in Shanghai, similar to perhaps Rockefeller Center in NYC but much more colorful and crazy. I’m just glad that I’m not here for the Year of the Rat–can’t even imagine an enormous rat taking center stage for all this hoopla! Yu Yuan also has gardens, closed when we visited, plus a huge array of shops that attracts LOTS of tourists as well as locals looking for Chinese New Year decorations.
After my office got all dolled up for the holiday, I just had to dress up our house as well. I got all the essentials–red hanging lanterns with lots of gold accents, a red metallic stuffed pony, red velvet knotted hanging thing with sequined gold pony and fish, etc. When in Rome! I bargained hard but the vendors were tough to negotiate down in price this time. All in all, I got all my tacky colorful decorations for under $40.
I finally found a nice stall with a pleasant young man to carry around my stuff as I picked it all out. Thom, of course, wanted nothing to do with the process and waited outside as I haggled like the stubborn mule I have been accused of being and probably am. Now, Thom gets to hang the shit all over the apartment as we start to stock up on groceries and DVD’s. You see, we have been warned by Fiona that you’ll get a firecracker up your ass if you step outside during Chinese New Year and we trust Fiona. We plan on hunkering down for the first few days of the holiday, that really goes on for about 40 days as everyone travels back to their families to celebrate. Midway during the holiday period, if we survive the toxic fumes from all the fireworks going off to ensure wealth and happiness (but obviously not good health) in the New Year, we are going to go to Vietnam where we will no doubt have more crazy adventures. Stay tuned!
Travels with Melinda 