Arriving in Saigon

After a delay sitting on the tarmac waiting, waiting, waiting (nothing leaves on time in Shanghai), we were off to Saigon!  As the plane neared the ground, the first thing I saw was the cluster of headlights illuminating the sky at an intersection–20 scooters across–what fun we will have trying to stay alive as we cross the streets here!

Ben Thanh market at night-can't wait to see it when open
Ben Thanh market at night-can’t wait to see it when open

Upon arrival, with passengers exiting fast out of the front and the back of the plane, we all ran to the buses that would take us to the small terminal.  The Visa process here is fairly simple with all non-Asian citizens herded into one area for processing.  We paid for “speedy” process and personal assistance but next time we’ll probably skip this extra fee we paid and do it ourselves.  Didn’t seem to get us through any faster and it was very simple.  The people watching was so interesting while we waited–huge diversity of visitors.   Vietnam attracts the hippy backpackers in droves-Bob Dylan shirts, dreadlocks and all.  It’s cheap and fun here.  We love, love Vietnam–everyone is so friendly and almost everyone speaks great English so it’s just easy.

We had paid also to have a private car take us to our lovely hotel, the Park Hyatt, and that was worth it as it is chaos outside the terminal.  Interesting that the waiting area is all outside with a canopy thus saving on A/C bills for the airport but making it fairly miserable for all in the hot tropical conditions.

Enjoying wine at outside café-lots of night life here in Saigon
Enjoying wine at outside café-lots of night life here in Saigon

Throwing the bags into the room, we immediately ventured out and went in search of an ATM.  Got to get us some Dong!  At 22,000 Dong to $1 US, you can get put off thinking something is terribly expensive at 2 million Dong but really not so much.  Dong in hand, we were off to explore Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon–either name seems to work here.

Crossing the street among all the scooters is challenging but when Thom went on ahead, leaving me to cross by myself, I just waited for a group of young dudes to venture out into the crosswalk and I inserted myself into their pack.  There is safety in #’s and they graciously shielded me from harm.  Thanks, guys!

Along the way, we managed to find some beautiful buildings, interesting stores and a Moroccan belly dancing club.  Who knew?  Something I never knew–Thom is freaked out by belly dancers but I’m trying to get him to go just for the experience.  After a glass of wine and some snacks at an outside café, we called it a night, eager to get some rest and explore Ho Chi Minh City tomorrow. More adventures to come!

She Works Hard For Her Money

Even in China, you can find “organic” fruit being touted, though Thom and I know it probably comes from the same field by the highway just like all fruit.  That being said, we really can’t see paying 3x the price for the organic label so, after trying it both ways, we went back to buying from our local fruit lady in our neighborhood.

Every day, from morning to late at night, she sits on the corner by our apartment selling fruit out of the back of her van.  Assisted by probably family, they weigh the produce and bargain with you on the price, sometimes throwing in an extra banana or two if they overcharge.  When Thom buys, this is always what happens because he hates to bargain.

James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady
James watches as Thom picks out the fruit from our lady

The fruit tastes delicious and, if it is raised in contaminated soil with the aid of polluted water then so be it.  As Fiona, our language teacher has taught us, “In China you can die fast or you can die slow-you pick.”. If the fruit doesn’t kill us, all the carbs we eat will so it’s time to enjoy a juicy peach and throw caution to the wind.

Our fruit lady was anxious to know if James was our son.  She pointed to him and then to us with a big smile.  Yes-we were blessed with a son, which always goes over big here.  Of course, we have a gorgeous daughter as well but here in China, the message is always clear-boys are special and men are in charge.

When we were at Tai Chi, after class we lingered to chat with the fellow participants.  The ladies were off talking while Thom and I talked to the guys.  They immediately turned to Thom and asked what he did for a living.  Smiling his huge grin, Thom loves to tell people, “I follow her and support her” pointing to me. The dudes let that sink in and then their eyes turned to me.  “What do YOU do?”. I don’t believe I’ve ever had a man or woman turn to me FIRST when I’m with Thom to ask why we had moved to China.  They ALWAYS assume it is for Thom’s career.  Just a cultural thing that I’ve gotten used to here.

Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom
Our fruit lady pointing out the best stuff to Thom

My fruit lady is also in charge at her job and works so hard to sell her produce but always has a smile on her face.  She’s an excellent business woman who understands customer service and that the little things matter like the extra banana thrown in the bag for regular customers or that offering a sample of the grapes will yield larger sales.  Kudos to you, my dear!  You work hard for your money and deserve every RMB you get from Thom–I’m actually okay that he doesn’t bargain with you.  I’m sticking with you for my fruit, even if it kills me.

The Mooncakes are Here! The Mooncakes are here!

Mooncakes are EVERYWHERE.  Somehow the main celebration for the MId-Autumn Festival this weekend in China is centered on a not-so-tasty pastry.  The hell with the mooncakes!!!  Thom and I have decided to celebrate this holiday by going to Vietnam instead of eating pasty carbs but, hey, we’re rebels.  What can I say-Ho Chi MInh City, baby, here we come!

Mooncake stamped with rabbit imprint to signify the moon
Mooncake stamped with rabbit imprint to signify the moon

But back to mooncakes–the front page of the Shanghai Daily featured a huge picture of long lines of people lined up outside waiting to buy popular mooncakes at a bakery.  Monday, I got my first mooncake gift from a co-worker.  The beautiful tin box featured a rabbit motif.  After I consulted Wiki, I know understand that rabbits represent the moon so that makes more sense.  I cut open the really heavy small cake (4 to a box and they weigh a ton!) and saw the inner burst of color.  I tasted that part first but it was really flavorless–Wiki says it is probably an egg yolk, maybe duck egg, symbolizing the full moon.

Our mooncake tasting with egg yolk in middle surrounded by lotus bean paste
Our mooncake tasting with egg yolk in middle surrounded by lotus bean paste

Thom, James and I all participated in mooncake tasting together.  Since each cake has 1,000 calories, I’m glad I only had one bite or I’d be at the gym all week working off the damn mooncake flab.  It tasted like mild peanut butter but maybe that is what lotus seed paste tastes like.  I have nothing to compare it to yet.  I do know that despite complaints that mooncake sales are down dramatically due to controls on government bribes, the lines are still pretty long at all bakeries so I’m not sure that strategy is working for them.  Even Starbucks sells them–always in gift boxes as they are presents to bestow on people you want to gain weight quickly.

So, happy Mid-Autumn Festival everyone.  Lots of stories to come this weekend from Vietnam.  Scooters galore!

More mooncake info than anyone needs or wants to know, according to Wiki:

Mooncake (simplified Chinese: 月饼; traditional Chinese: 月餅; pinyin: yuè bĭng) is a Chinese bakery product traditionally eaten during the Mid-Autumn Festival (Zhongqiujie). The festival is for lunar worship and moon watching, when mooncakes are regarded as an indispensable delicacy. Mooncakes are offered between friends or on family gatherings while celebrating the festival. The Mid-Autumn Festival is one of the four most important Chinese festivals.

Typical mooncakes are round pastries, measuring about 10 cm in diameter and 3–4 cm thick. This is the Cantonese mooncake, eaten in Southern China in Guangdong, Hong Kong, and Macau. A rich thick filling usually made from red bean or lotus seed paste is surrounded by a thin (2–3 mm) crust and may contain yolks from salted duck eggs. Mooncakes are usually eaten in small wedges accompanied by Chinese tea. Today, it is customary for businessmen and families to present them to their clients or relatives as presents,[1] helping to fuel a demand for high-end mooncake styles. The energy content of a mooncake is approximately 1,000 calories or 4,200 kilojoules (for a cake measuring 10 cm (3.9 in)), but energy content varies with filling and size.[2]

 Most mooncakes consist of a thin, tender pastry skin enveloping a sweet, dense filling, and may contain one or more whole salted egg yolks in their center as the symbol of the full moon. Very rarely, mooncakes are also served steamed or fried.

Traditional mooncakes have an imprint on top consisting of the Chinese characters for “longevity” or “harmony”, as well as the name of the bakery and the filling inside. Imprints of the moon, the Lady Chang’e on the moon, flowers, vines, or a rabbit (symbol of the moon) may surround the characters for additional decoration.

Mooncakes are considered a delicacy as production is labor-intensive and few people make them at home. Hence, most prefer to buy them from commercial outlets, which may range from smaller individual bakery shops to high-end restaurants. The price of mooncakes usually ranges from US$10 to US$50 for a box of four, although cheaper and more expensive mooncakes can also be found.[original research?]

Bargaining Should Be An Olympic Sport

Today we ventured out to the AP “fake” market in Shanghai under the #2 subway line in Pudong.  We have been there many times to buy pearls, sports jerseys, Rolex watches, LV bags, etc.  I see bargaining for the lowest possible price as a sport.  I just wish it was an Olympic sport because I would totally own a Gold Medal.

Our mission was hunting for stylish yet waterproof rain boots for me.  With my commute of 1.3 miles each way to/from work and no taxis in sight when it rains, I am tired of stepping in the lakes that form quickly in the streets resulting from the city planners–shocker ahead–obviously not realizing that it rains heavily in Shanghai many months of the year. Where the hell did they imagine all that water was going to go???

Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market
Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market

Anyway, we went straight to our “shoe lady” who has sold us many a Converse-like shoe in the past.  She gives us the local price not the laowai inflated price and she has a nice smile.  Today, James found some nice leather sneaks but, after trying on hideous Croc-like rubber boats to keep my feet dry, we had to keep looking.  The popular Hunter boots were everywhere but I’ve had those (Hannah now looks splendid in them) and they’re just too hot and heavy for Shanghai.  Unfortunately, nothing else really else presented itself except a leopard plastic boot that I just couldn’t bring myself to like.  So, after heavy negotiating I got a short version of the Hunter mock lizard which will make my feet sweat like a bitch but perhaps will be waterproof–with the fakes, you never know what quality you’re getting until you wear/wash them.  They may last and they may not.  I told the guy I lived in Shanghai and would be back in his face if my feet got wet wearing his boots that I got for 160RMB.   He just smiled and waved goodbye.  He has no idea what’s in his future if my feet aren’t happy in the next monsoon.  Watch out mister!

Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market
Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market

Since my birthday was this past week and I ended up sick instead of celebrating, I decided to treat myself and give Sarah’s Pearls a visit because I just know they miss my bargaining like a mule which makes Thom cringe.  After seeing a long turquoise(like) and silver necklace, I knew it would look super with a simple black dress so into the lovely sequin bag it went for only 100 RMB–she started at 280 RMB.  Like a mule I am!

After negotiating for a brightly patterned pillow cover–I do have a serious pillow fetish for our boring beige couches–we started looking at custom made trench coats to accompany my new rain boots.  I’ll have to do some research on styles but I shopped for pricing and found I could get one for about 600 RMB (down from 2400) custom made in a few days.  SOLD!  Can’t wait to go back and order when my friend Patti visits.  I’m sure she’ll want some custom clothes too and I can get a better deal if we buy multiple items.  I truly do deserve a Gold Medal in bargaining because I save so much money that I can just keep on shopping, shopping, shopping!

Trying Out Tai Chi

I have always wondered why there aren’t more bodies littering the streets here in China what with the crazy traffic vs. pedestrian daily battles over turf.  Now I know–Tai Chi.  Embracing Tai Chi and practicing every morning on any street corner that’s available, locals here are nimble, stress-free and can gracefully leap out of the way of the buses bearing down on them without breaking a sweat or screaming obscenities.  Me, not so much.  Hardly a morning goes by without me starting my commute with a rude gesture to a motorist trying to kill me.

So off to Tai Chi Class we went today.  We had tried a Tai Chi class when we were on the boat cruise in Halong Bay but it was very brief and meant to be just an intro to what this ancient sport was all about.  Now, we were headed to a class for a hour long session to give it a whirl.  Old people here embrace it and do it daily.  And by “old people”, I mean WAY older than me.  How hard could it be???  Right???

Thom's first attempt at Tai Chi when we were in Halong Bay.
Thom’s first attempt at Tai Chi when we were in Halong Bay.

Now having personally attempted it, I know why Tai Chi is not that popular in the U.S.  I just laughed myself silly when the class instructor performed a move which involved bending like a pretzel while lowering your entire body to the floor only to bounce up like a jack in the box and fling one leg in the air, slapping it hard with your hand for some unknown reason.  Unfortunately, there was no way I was able to do that and not injure my body and dignity so I abstained.  Damn-this was way harder than Yoga!  Thom dipped a little but didn’t make it all the way to the floor but I give him credit for trying.

I guess I thought of Tai Chi as an exercise routine but it is really a martial arts form of  training used for both defense and also for its health benefits.  The slow movements looked so interesting when I watch the ladies in the park outside my window every morning.  I have all new respect for them, especially those who practice it with the shiny swords.  I can’t even imagine the “guns” these ladies are packing on their arms to be able to hold up that sword for any length of time and practice their moves.  You go girls!  Ain’t nobody messing with you!

After the class, I did some research and Wiki says, “Medical research has found evidence that t’ai chi is helpful for improving balance and for general psychological health, and that it is associated with general health benefits in older people.”.  I would say that anyone who practices this daily could whip anyone’s ass without breaking a sweat.

I bestowed several  of the moves with western-style nicknames like the “No Way In Hell” and the “No F*&King Way”.  At least the instructor didn’t come up to me and manually twist my body to demonstrate moves like he did to Thom and the other guys.  I guess the ladies are off limits to touch-yippee!  I had a yoga instructor try that on me in Seattle and I about backhanded her after she kept pushing and prodding me to do moves that were physically not possible, at least for me.  LIke it bothered her that I was sullying her class with my imperfect moves.  End of yoga time for me.

It was fascinating how these complicated hand gestures were really a complicated way to defend yourself.  Coming from the US where we typically defend ourselves with guns not Tai Chi, one has to wonder how many lives could be saved if we worked out all differences with our hands and feet instead of with a bullet.  First off, any incident where “alcohol was involved” would end up being resolved quickly because no way anyone could perform Tai Chi after having a few beers or shots.  They would just fall over after the pretzel move and pass out.  I had a hard time following the intricate precision movements stone cold sober–good luck if you’ve had a few too many.

Of course, I was thinking as I watched Thom get his personal training in protection that a good “knee up” would take care of any male attackers quickly but Tai Chi was definitely more elegant.  Since I have the attention span of a gnat, it was really hard for me to concentrate for a hour on at least showing some mimic ability of the moves being shown.  I would give myself a “C” for effort and “F” for execution if I’m being honest.  It wasn’t pretty.  At.  All.

Afterward, a nice couple who live in our complex (class was part of our onsite gym) came up and told us that they had been coming to class for a year and still were learning.  That made us feel not as inadequate and they encouraged us to keep coming to learn our moves.  There’s hope for us after all!  Tai Chi baby–watch out motorists in Shanghai–you won’t hit me now!

Exploring Close to Home

Who knew we had caves, a waterfall and a maze on the grounds of our apartment property???

Our very own "French Maze"
Our very own “French Maze”

WTF!  Seriously, we have lived here for almost one year and this past weekend we finally stopped having adventures outside the walls of our property and spent time exploring closer to home.  It got hot and humid so walking for miles wasn’t appealing to me so we decided to have a more “local” adventure.  On our side of the complex (total of 7 buildings with Weifang Road splitting the property into two sections) we discovered, among other things, a real life huge maze.   My first thought was “Why??” but I felt very Harry Potterish as I threaded my way among the hedges though I didn’t find any port keys but I’ll keep on looking.

Maze anyone?
Maze anyone?

There is actually a tower built to observe the action as people try to find their way out and two sections–low shrubs even shorties like me can see over and tall ones that even Thom couldn’t see over.  Then, next to the maze was a beautiful formal garden with statues and fountains.  Thom and I want to take over the management of the grounds so we can rent out these places for parties and events–they seem to be very underutilized.  Party time-let’s enjoy these beautiful spots!

Cave exploring with Thom!
Cave exploring with Thom!

Then we decided to try the other section to see what we could find and, amazingly, we found a section where a cave and tunnels had been carved out.  Again, I wondered “Why??” but as I doubt that many people had ever discovered these as they are hidden towards the back of the property but someone was parking their scooters in them so someone was using them for their own personal parking lot.  If we ever need a hiding place, this is it!

Next to the caves, we discovered a gorgeous waterfall and lake with koi swimming under the bridges. The traditional buildings house a restaurant, spa and dry cleaners–right on property!  We knew about the little grocery and liquor store on site–they deliver for free and it’s super convenient but have never been in these other facilities.  Leave it to me to know where to buy wine as close to home as possible.  That I’m never to busy to find out.

My best friend and her husband will visit us this fall for a month.  We can’t wait to show them all around and have new adventures.  Now we that we know all the hidden gems on our own property, we will show them around and they can explore the beautiful grounds when they need a break from the hectic life on the streets of Shanghai.

Pond, waterfall, and a view of downtown Pudong-all on property!
Pond, waterfall, and a view of downtown Pudong-all on property!

Quick Way to Get A Seat on a Shanghai Subway

I’ve often written that I know if I get hit or fall sick that I am on my own.  No one is going to assist me, call an ambulance or aid in any way.  It’s just not the China way.  To illustrate and confirm this, just read this recent Shanghai Daily article:  http://www.shanghaidaily.com/metro/society/Metro-appeal-after-fainting-foreigner-panic/shdaily.shtml

A guy passed out or fainted-who knows really-but pictures were publicized of the full subway car and then the quickly vacant car after this dude slumped to the floor.  Now the debate is on in the Shanghai Daily over what to do if this situation happens–government officials state “not to panic” because people running away from such an incident can be more dangerous.  True.

Photo from Shanghai Daily showing foreign dude passed out and all alone after crowd ran away
Photo from Shanghai Daily showing foreign dude passed out and all alone after crowd ran away

A follow-up editorial in the Shanghai Daily in the  Shanghai Street View section by Doug Young debates whether “many Chinese lack compassion for strangers.”. Basically, the general thought is that most people are just afraid of any trouble in general and they just want to disengage and run away from all disturbances if at all possible.  I guess some people called and reported this particular incident after they had fled the scene so the authorities did show up to investigate soon after it took place.

So, my advice to all foreigners–travel in packs and take care of each other.  It’s nothing personal but don’t expect anyone local to take care of you if you need help.  Better yet, try really, really hard not to get in accidents or get ill in public.  Dodge those buses and carry OTC meds from your homeland on your person always.  Happy Travels and, if you ever just feel the need to get an empty seat on the subway in Shanghai, you know what to do!

Dogs Play in Shanghai Despite The “Rules”

So, residents in my apartment complex have obviously not been informed that the unofficial rule is you’re not supposed to have large dogs in China.  On our walk today around the property, we came upon the British Lawn, a large expanse of green lawn and trees-a really lovely oasis for us in the chaos of China, our very own small Central Park.  This morning, and perhaps every Sunday morning, it seemed that the British Lawn had been turned into a Shanghai Dog Park, complete with one guy driving his pooches crazy chasing after a remote controlled car all over the greens.  Super funny to watch Mr. Golden Retriever run ragged chasing the car until he finally said F*&K It and stopped, panting with his tongue hanging out.  Where’s my water, Mr. Owner???

Unfortunately, our new rescue dog, Thor, is teeny tiny and still waiting for to get all his shots so he won’t be seeing the light of day or playing on the lawn any time soon–maybe next summer, Thor!

Good idea, bad execution--no bags to be had in nice container
Good idea, bad execution–no bags to be had in nice container

Now, the complex does provide a container to provide Pets Poo Poo bags, but, of course, it was empty.  Thus, the pooches do their business whenever and wherever they want and the owners don’t really police it.  Watch where you step!  Take off those shoes at the door!

The Property “RULES” state:  “Do not walk your pets on the lawn.”. I guess if no one uses a leash and lets their dogs run wild, it’s technically NOT walking your pets.  Oh, and I have no idea what this rule means but am dying to find out: “Behaviors such as bare-backed are not welcome on the lawn.”. Hmmm…. could mean so many things if you think about it, all interesting.  I guess I’ll have to walk around more looking for bare-back activities..more to come.

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Yummy Saturday in Shanghai

Cookies.  Delivered.  Same Day.  But first, let’s talk bagels in Shanghai.

Buttered Bagel Shanghai Style
Buttered Bagel Shanghai Style

Dense, chewy and delicious, the bagels never disappoint at Egghead Bagels. One of the best blocks for expat food tastes, next door to Egghead is Sumerian Coffee which just opened a taco stand, Dogtown.  Yum!  I’ve never seen so many laowais walking around one China block seeking out familiar foods.

Enjoying eating sidewalk style before the rain hit, we laughed when Thom’s “buttered” bagel came–the hard chunks of butter in the separate bowl made spreading impossible so he just chucked them on the bagel and smashed the two side together to try and melt them.  Considering this is such a Western focused café, it’s funny they make you work to get the “buttered” option to happen.  Overall, though, tasty.

Now, on to the cookie portion of the day.  After the rain let loose and any plan to walk around on a lazy Saturday faded, we miraculously got a cab and slogged through flooded streets to home sweet home.

Crushed that we came home only with bagels, we promptly (we meaning Thom) went online and ordered off the Strictly Cookies website–same delivery for an extra 15 RMB–of course!  We ordered the standard chocolate/chocolate and peanut butter in large quantities (really, who spends $40 US on just cookies–we do!!!) but thankfully Thom decided to try the Snack Pack cookie-a pretzel, caramel, chocolate, Oreo, potato chip creation of the highest deliciousness possible in a cookie.  It’s an ugly cookie that doesn’t disappoint.  Better Than Sex should be the official cookie name not Snack Pack but that’s just my opinion.

Peanut butter, Choco Choco or Snack Pack??
Peanut butter, Choco Choco or Snack Pack??

Even James who doesn’t really like cookies was impressed, not that we plan to share any more with him.  Sorry we love you, son, but there is only one special cookie left and your parents are splitting it.

After carb loading, naps are in order and then reading and watching movies to rest up on a rainy lazy Saturday in Shanghai.

Of course, there is that one cookie left…. maybe Thom won’t notice it’s gone when he wakes up from his nap.

Shanghai Headlines Never Fail To Amuse

Ahh, what would I do without the daily Shanghai headlines that amuse and confuse????  Every day, I read the Shanghai Daily and it never fails to make me shake my head in wonder.  Here’s just a few of today’s stories:

“Plane circles as controllers sleep on job”. These fine employees “broke the rules by sleeping” on the job–YOU THINK???  This particular China Eastern flight just circled and waited for someone to wake up so they could land safely.  HELLO!!!  THIS IS YOUR WAKE UP CALL!!  Now these napping controllers face “disciplinary action”– just a piece of advice–please fire them before I fly again.

“Shop pulls pasta as ‘mac & fleas’ fails to impress” Warning–Don’t read this article at dinner time.  Seems a local store in Gubei had to withdraw Pasta delLevante branded items that were housing bugs.  Two for one special–bugs AND pasta.  You get your protein and your grains in one bag all for one low, low price.  What a deal!

‘Leftover’ men buy brides from Vietnam”.   In a country with over a billion people, there seems to be a shortage of available women so rural gents are making deals to bring over Vietnamese women looking for their Prince Charming.  Of course, cash is involved for these heartwarming couplings.  The Chinese women often come with high demands from the parents–a car and house may be required for the parental blessing to be awarded.  Poor men who can’t come comply to snag a local bride are turning to the hard-working Vietnamese women looking for an easier life.  Of course, this tradition is rife with abuse and kidnappings vs. consensual wedlock.  As one “Vietnam dating” service detailed, they supply “kind and obedient” women with a guarantee if the new bride “escapes”, they will replace her for free.  Now that’s customer service at it’s human trafficking best!

From dusk till dawn, Suzhou Creek sculpture is a no-go zone for locals”.    Locals have complained that “spooky” sculptures are giving them nightmares and that they are “freaked out” by the design.  These works of art by sculptor Yang Jinsong  were inspired by a photo of 1960’s women who were textile workers near Suzhou Creek.  It seems at night, the fading light makes them look like they have no heads.  Of course, that could also be from the local weed these people may or may not be smoking.  Who knows?  The government is contacting the artist to resolve the issue.  Don’t hold your breath for resolution.

And that is just one day’s worth of wacky headlines.  What did I learn?  Don’t take night flights or walk by the sculptures at night, and, more importantly, check the pasta to see if it is moving before buying!