I’d REALLY like to NOT die today!

So I don’t know if talking to yourself, silently usually, is a sign (and not a good one probably) but I find myself repeating a few mantras daily to myself.  I think that mantras are usually supposed to be calming and inspirational.  Perhaps soothing and meaningful spoken during yoga or meditation.  But, I live in China and have a new puppy so my mantras are more down to earth, usually screamed and sometimes with accompanying rude hand gestures:

Mantra #1-usually spoken to China drivers:  I’d REALLY like to NOT die today!

Mantra #2-always spoken to Thor:  PLEASE do NOT pee on me.  SERIOUSLY.  You have vampire teeth.  STOP biting me.

Yes, this is my life and I like it.  It’s complicated, messy (literally with Thor) and challenging, just the way I want it to be.

First, as to the “not dying today” mantra, when you live in China and walk to work, by the time I hit the first crosswalk and the bus is gunning for me and the scooter I didn’t see going the WRONG WAY on the street touches me and the car is driving down the damn sidewalk instead of the street, I am usually making my pleas to God.  I’m REALLY not ready to go yet–places to see, family to take care of, blogs to be written, etc. Give me more time please.

Yes, that's a car entering the crosswalk after driving down the sidewalk.
Yes, that’s a car entering the crosswalk after driving down the sidewalk.

Now, if I get hit in a crosswalk in China, I’m going down and I know it.  No bystanders will assist (not that people are mean here but they just don’t get involved) and no ambulance will come.  If I can’t limp or crawl to a taxi, which will never pick me up if I’m bleeding so why even try, then I’m toast.  Dead toast.  So, I’m nimble, look both ways and behind me to avoid getting hit and I pray ALOT.

Now on to Thor.  He really does have vampire teeth.  WHAT.  THE.  HELL.  When do those sharp little suckers drop out and he gets normal teeth?  Can’t come soon enough for me.

Thor The Vampire
Thor The Vampire

And he has a bad habit of peeing everywhere but the pee pads.  Yes, it’s a big apartment and he has little legs so maybe (and I’m giving him a HUGE benefit of the doubt here) he gets tired halfway to his room and he just has to let it go.  Okay but when he’s sitting on my lap all warm and cuddly and then I’m feeling a cold, wet sensation, that’s just not cool.  We had to take up all the rugs after he decided that they seemed like pee pads too and James stepped in poo on the kitchen rug.  While he was gagging, Thom scrapped the shit off his foot and washed it.  A dad’s job is never done!  Tough love Mom that I am, I would have told him to hop right on into the shower and wash it off himself. He’s 21 for God’s sake.   Guess that’s why Thom stayed home and raised the kids while I worked.  They are all the better humans for it.  Good job, Thom!

So, I’ll keep on dodging traffic and watching where I step, all the while repeating my mantras and enjoying this crazy life I lead.  Hallelujah!

 

 

Cronuts have descended on Shanghai! Run for your forks!

Billed as “The desirable dessert from New York” the Woody Baker (named after the NYC icon Woody Allen perhaps??) in Shanghai has an array of Cronuts to nosh on.  I had heard so much about this hot craze in New York where people stand in line for hours just to get these type of pastries so I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to see how Shanghai interpreted the famous Cronut.

The two layers of custard are yum but messy!
The two layers of custard are yum but messy!

Two levels of croissant-like pastry with cream custard piped between and on top.  Awkward at best to eat by hand, I used a knife and fork to cut bites for the family to taste.  I tried cutting it with just a fork and it was too dense so the knife was needed. Unlike the donut or croissant that you could walk and eat on the street, if you try that with a Cronut, you will have custard sliding down your chest in no time as you try to rip it apart with your teeth.  NOT.  PRETTY.   They didn’t give out forks (or chopsticks-now, that would be a challenge!)  with it so I am thinking that you are supposed to eat by hand.  NO WAY!   Since there wasn’t chocolate involved (but you can get those), James thought it was just “okay” and he went back to reading his book.  His favorite dessert is brownies so Cronuts are definitely not his thing.

If you want to be "cool" eat a Cronut!
If you want to be “cool” eat a Cronut!

 

Now, the Chinese culture doesn’t really embrace sweet desserts.  Fruit is the favored meal ender here so judging by the lack of crowds at Woody Baker on a busy Saturday, I’m not sure building a bakery on one type of pastry is a sound business model.  It was just me and a Brit dude forking over the RMB.

And starting at 18 RMB ($3US) and going up to 26, these desserts are not cheap.  The average Chinese citizen would never pay that much.  Westerners like us are the target audience for sure.  Located in the Xintiendi area (think Manhattan of Shanghai), perhaps they can find enough laowais to stay busy baking.

Thom tasted it  and pronounced it “cannoli with a hint of donut” vs. croissant like.  The flavors offered are:  white chocolate pastiche, white chocolate Oreo, chocolate almond, banana special, fresh blueberry, coco cream and the original. Lots of variety if you want a tasty, very messy, cannoli-like, donut shaped treat.  New York or Shanghai–the Cronut Craze has gone worldwide!

Mornings in Shanghai

Mornings in Shanghai start slow.  I’ll never forget that first time I showed up all perky at 6:30 a.m. at the local Starbucks by the Four Seasons where we were staying on our first trip over to Shanghai.  Not open yet?  WHAT THE HELL?  How is a Starbucks not open by that hour?  After a few days of wandering around trying to find an early caffeine fix, I discovered that most coffee places (and there is a café on every corner) open by 8 a.m. but not before.  This falls right in line with the start of the typical office work day which is never before 9 a.m. and more likely to be 10 a.m. by the time everyone wanders into work.  Not me, of course, but everyone else in China.

AM Fruit run
AM Fruit run

I am an anomaly in Shanghai (and really everywhere in every way if I’m being honest) as I usually wake up at 5ish and am ready to walk to work by 8 a.m. at the latest.  As I do my new commute to the SWFC offices, I get to see the locals just getting started for their day.  This usually consists of a stop at the food cart where you can get scallion pancakes or steamed buns plus the daily fruit buy, which right now is very melon focused.  The ayi’s actually deliver fruit to our office desks every afternoon-very refreshing.  Melons, grapes, apples, etc. just appear like magic–all juicy and delightful.  Love this China tradition–YUM!

The shoemakers and vendors selling their wares are not up yet when I am on my way in–they work late into the evenings.  Most of the locals do not have a/c so everyone tends to stay outside in the streets dancing and socializing well into the evening probably to let their apartments cool down after dark.  The heat this summer in Shanghai isn’t as brutal as last year.  I remember melting in the 100+ degree heat many days after coming over last August, especially in contrast to the coolness I was used to in Seattle.

All by ourselves at Camel Pub, Pudong, watching Seahawks and enjoying breakfast cocktail!
All by ourselves at Camel Pub, Pudong, watching Seahawks and enjoying breakfast cocktail!

Speaking of Seattle, we were so excited to discover a Friday night Seattle vs. San Diego preseason football game would be played in real time at our local pub but at Saturday morning 10 a.m. our time.  Entering the dark pub that early in the morning, we woke up the staff and got them to boot up the TV’s so we could, all by ourselves, watch the game.  Screwdriver please!  They served me a salad with my scrambled eggs.  Sorry-not too early for the screwdriver but way too early for a salad.  I still have a Western stomach.  Of course, I’ll probably die of food poisoning.  I’ve been warned never to eat at an empty establishment because the grill will be cold so the food served will not achieve enough heat to cook the food thoroughly.  Time will tell….

Guess there are either no Seahawks fans in Pudong or it’s just too bloody early for most of the blokes around here-yes, most of the expats are Brits that we have met.  American Football–what’s that?  If it was a big rugby match, the bar would be packed!  Plus side to be the only ones here–no smoke.  Everyone smokes here and you go home from any bar smelling like a pack of Marlboros.  The muzak is heavy into 70’s with Barry Manilow (Thom was once mistaken for him in the 70’s on a NYC subway–worse compliment ever) and Johnny B Good.  Ahhh, mornings in Shanghai….eggs/salad/cocktails, bad 70’s muzak and Seahawks Football–no better way to start the weekend!

 

Shanghai Street Scenes

Carving out space in the street to work
Carving out space in the street to work

 

Walking home from the Shanghai World Financial Center (SWFC) to our apartment a block off the Huangpu River, I reminded myself tonight to soak it all in and observe life in China.  I walk through the business section of office workers and construction workers anxious to board their bus and get the heck home after a long day.

Many of the people in Shanghai live and work on or near the busy streets.  Whether a food vendor or shoe cobbler or seamstress or plant seller, their lives revolve around selling their services and goods to the locals walking by. That’s me!

Plants on a cart-they deliver!
Plants on a cart-they deliver!

The plant guy loves me because nothing makes a home seem cozier than live greenery.  Do they all live long lives?  NOPE.  We’ve had about 50% success rate so far but I just keep buying.  Like I said, the plant guy grins wide when he sees me because he knows I’m a sucker for any size plant.  Large.  Small,  Doesn’t matter!

Need a shoe repaired?
Need a shoe repaired?

 

These hard workers carve out their space with a lounge chair actually in the street or on the sidewalk.  From another century sometimes, the materials are basic to perform their jobs…. an old sewing machine, a crockpot with eggs simmering, etc.  It’s fascinating to see the diversity of this life vs. the “behind closed doors” lifestyle of the average person in the U.S.  This seems more social but hard for sure.  When it rains, these outside vendors get soaked and business sucks.

Here in China the sidewalks are teaming with people–eating, working and socializing.  On a relatively nice evening, everyone floods outside to soak up the low AQI and cooler breezes.  Ahhh, Shanghai Street Scenes on a lovely August eve.  How lucky I am to experience it!

Shoes and Tattoos

Last summer, Thom and I started a new tradition for our wedding anniversary gift –Shoes & Tattoos.  We both love a nice pair of shoes and thus own way too many of them plus we had never gotten tattoos.  So, off we went to buy gorgeous shoes and then went under the needle to get inked by a Seattle tattoo artist.  Did it hurt?  HELL.  YES.  But, as we are crazy adventuresome folk who love creating special moments not to be forgotten, we loved our new tradition.  Our kids both thought we were crazy but reacted differently–Hannah asked, “Who ARE you people?” and James got himself a large Celtic cross inked on his upper arm.  Love them both!

For my first and only tat, I got a cute little Chinese symbol for happiness in a non-public place and Thom got a big ass Tardis on his upper arm.  Yes, he’s a Dr. Who geek.  While he is considering adding on to his artwork with 9 planets, etc. circling his Tardis (he’s in a science fiction phase), I have advised against getting a tat in China.  All kinds of concerns and red flags are flying about cleanliness and needles/ink being injected into your body, etc.  However, he won’t listen (do men ever??)  and it’s his body so I’ve said my piece and now will get to tell him “I TOLD YOU SO!” when his limbs drop off his body if he proceeds.  Make your choice, Thom.

Having two different size feet is great excuse for custom boots!
Having two different size feet is great excuse for custom boots!

Fast forward a year to our anniversary just passed and we are now in China not Seattle.  This year, I’m sticking to the much safer tradition of just cool shoes for our 26th wedding anniversary gift.  When in China, DON’T get a tat but DO get custom made shoes—less chance of dying.  After many recommendations from online sources and locals expats, we went to YanYe in the former French Concession area.  After a previous trip, I was all set on a buttery tan leather ankle boot with red accents.  I got to select the leather, designed the style using several different models and picked the red accent pieces.  SHOE HEAVEN!

“Your right foot is bigger than your left foot!” Who knew??  Obviously, Mr. Zhao knows after his careful measuring.  It takes 3-4 weeks including a second fitting to get custom shoes just right.  I can’t wait to see how my unique boots turn out.  Here’s hoping I love my creation because at $250 US, I’ll be wearing them for the rest of my life.  While I wait for my special shoes to be created, Thom will ponder his tattoo design and decide whether or not to go under the needle.

JUST SAY NO!  Shoes are a fashion statement but a tattoo is forever.

Daily Craziness That Is Life in China

I enjoy the daily craziness that is living in China.   Always something new to see and experience.  This past week my commute has been upgraded to walking to/from work vs. taking the subway.  Hallelujah!  Of course, it’s 90+ degree with 110% humidity daily so by the time I arrive, I am soaked but still, it’s  nice not to be crammed into an underground tube with millions of coughing strangers.  At least on the street, the DNA being spit out has room to expand and a chance to blow away if I’m lucky enough to enjoy a breeze.   Now, I usually embrace public transportation as easy and cheap but enjoy it not being a daily necessity.  This past week when we were in Hong Kong, we travelled by subway and enjoyed the clean, well marked and lovely lime colored ambience.Hong Kong Subway

My fellow walking commuters crack me up.  Several times I have seen ladies of a more seasoned age walking backwards down the sidewalk.  Now, are they just crazy or is there a reason for this awkward commuting behavior?  I’ve researched online and many opinions exist including that the Chinese believe that walking backwards is good for the brain and stops memory loss and also that it improves your balance.  Thom believe that these lovely ladies I see think walking backwards is like going in reverse in a car and rolling back the odometer— acting like a time machine, you can easily take years off your life!  Of course, it could just be as simple as:  WHY NOT?  Makes perfect sense to me.

The stories just rolled in this week of odd behavior that people wanted to share.  A friend visiting from the U.S. just had to tell me about his “shocking” experience in the public bathroom.  Standing at the urinal, the dude next to him dropped his pants and proceeded to do his thing buck naked from the waist down.  Again, WHY NOT?   When I told Thom this story, he one upped it by telling me his story of odd public bathroom behavior.  He was using the facilities when in walked a gent who proceeded to not only drop his pants to use the urinal but then proceeded to waddle over, pants pooled at his feet, and wash his junk in the sink.  Needless to say, Thom made the wise choice to use hand sanitizer vs. waiting to use that sink to wash up.  Smart man!

bathroom monkey

Now, some of you may be just dying to know more about the local slant on why you should poop more often so I am sharing the article I read this week that is just hysterical and comes with handy tips–read on if you dare:

http://www.cityweekend.com.cn/shanghai/blog/health-matters-poop-yourself-happy/

For those of you who might just want a quick quip from the article, here is a snapshot, “..Chinese fruit stalls also sell fancy gift boxes of fruit.  So while your colleagues may have thought that when you bought your angry supervisor a box of pears you were pai ma pi (kissing ass), what you’re really doing is making the workplace better by helping your boss be a little less full of shit.”.  The author makes a good case for the perfect gift for all–fruit, fruit and more fruit!

Who knows what craziness will greet me this week as I walk down the street on my morning commute??

Looking forward to the unexpected and the crazy as I relish the adventure of living in China.  Now, I’m off to buy some pears.

 

 

Fortune Telling at Temple Street Night Market

Temple Street Night Market in Kowloon is known for fake everything and fortune tellers.  Since I have already got all the fake stuff I could ever want from the excellent markets in Beijing and Shanghai, we wandered through the stalls very quickly.  The “Don’t Fart In the Room” and other tacky crap held no appeal for any of us so we just kept on walking.  Crossing over into the dark backstreets behind the market, the fortune tellers were lined up touting their services.  English speaker?  No problem.

Fortune Tellers lined up in Kowloon
Fortune Tellers lined up in Kowloon

There had to be 20 or so fortune tellers lined up with outdoor singing booths across the aisle providing boisterous ambience.  We walked by the gents and ladies initially with Thom scoffing at their trade but I decided to do the “when in Rome” thing and picked the gal who looked the most professional.  After settling on a 150HK$ palm reading, I literally put myself in her hands, squatted on my plastic stool and let her have a go at it.

Fearless and Lucky I am according to my FT
Fearless and Lucky I am according to my FT

The left hand, she told me, represents my life under age 30 and the right hand over 30.  Immediately she showed me my health line which is the arcing prominent line nearest my thumb.  Very healthy indeed!  Check and check!  She knew that I am a great adventurer (probably because I’m sitting in a dark alley in Kowloon!) and will  fearlessly try anything.  I have a good human nature but can tell the bad guys from the good guys, which is always a valuable trait. No fooling this lady!  My lucky line was strong for both hands.  Maybe I can fit in a quick gambling trip to Macau after all??

She continued seriously with very wise advice that could apply to all males–my man is not perfect so ease up on him.  Really?  Also, he doesn’t have a clue what to buy me for presents so just tell him and everyone will be happier.  Hallelujah, sister!  She kept repeating that there had only been two significant men in my life, which would be Thom, of course, and my first husband who died at 23.  My FT (fortune teller) was impressed with my long life line–they do live long in my family but saw some troubling smaller lines indicating that I need to let things go and be happy more.  Ain’t that the truth!  That must have been the Perfectionist, People Pleaser and Overachiever lines etched deeply into my palms.  She could tell I was very successful in all that I do (I wish!) but helped other people be successful too.  I try!  Final parting advice-she warned me not to lend money to others because I would never get it back.  Duh!  Bank of Melinda is now closed.

So many lines, so many details of life in the hands
So many lines, so many details of life in the hands

Overall, my under 30 hand lines are much less pronounced than my over 30 hand.  This confirms what I already knew–that I am seizing the day with my over 30 life and enjoying great adventures with Thom while we can!  So today we are off to the Big Buddha to pray for contentment and lucky lottery numbers so that we can continue to keep experiencing these awesome travel moments.  Big Buddha, brace yourself!  The Georges are Coming!

Sea Kayaking off Cheung Chau Island

KEEP AWAY FROM SHARK PREVENTION NET.  Okay, so if I had seen this beach sign BEFORE I ventured into the China Sea, OUTSIDE the shark prevention net guarding the beachgoers, to kayak off the island of Cheung Chua, I may have offered to stay behind to guard the backpacks and drink cold beverages.  Instead, embracing the “you only live once” motto, I jumped in and off we went with Thom paddling my ass around the rocky shoreline of this charming little fishing island.  Okay, I paddled a little but he did most of the work,  True love, folks!

Taking off from Cheung Chua Island to Hong Kong via the Fast Ferry
Taking off from Cheung Chua Island to Hong Kong via the Fast Ferry

We took the slow ferry (vs. the fast ferry that was the other option) from Hong Kong to Cheung Chua with hundreds of other locals.  After paying our $3US for the ride, we took some seats on the upper deck, always the best position for a quick exit strategy in case of ship accidents which have been happening frequently over here, and, after locating the traditional hammer on the window to be used in case of emergencies, off we went.  The many families on board were playing cards, eating ramen and enjoying themselves immensely.  It’s Beach Day!

On the way over, we saw the Fast Boat quickly pass us as well as a fancy hydrofoil that looked too cool.  We found out later that it goes to Macau–not going to make it there this trip but maybe next time.  I hear Macau is very fancy and intense–gambling there is a business, though, and not fun like Vegas.

Cheung Chua, famous for their Annual Bun Festival, is quite small and totally devoid of cars, with bikes as the main transportation though you can walk around the island in a few hours.  There are motorized carts for business purposes and we did see an ambulance screaming through the narrow streets.  Other than that it was blissfully silent of traffic.  The mature ladies even had training wheels on their bikes to keep them steady.  How cute! The beach is a quick walk across the island from the harbor.  Of course, we didn’t quite know where we were going, as usual, but we kept on walking and found a deserted beach with a shack renting kayaks. Bingo! No silly safety instructions or liability paperwork needed here.  A quick and painless, if unsafe, process.

At least they had life jackets-no safety lecture or liability paperwork though!
At least they had life jackets-no safety lecture or liability paperwork though!

We paid our $80HK/$150HK for our single/double kayaks and started paddling.  After seeing a rather large jelly fish float by, I concentrated harder on staying in the sit atop style kayak, praying I would not somehow tip us over.  Could I out swim the ocean creatures that could sting, eat or maim me?  Well, maybe but I could definitely out swim Thom so all was good. Just kidding!

Sunburnt and hot as Hell, we caught the Fast Boat home and took naps.  We’re off to Kowloon tonight to the night markets, taking yet another ferry across the harbor.  You know I love dodging boats in a busy harbor at night with no lights, right???  Where’s the hammer and the exit???  You only live once and there are more adventures to be had in Hong Kong.  Off we go!

Hong Kong Sunday

Drinking wine, cooking somehow in plastic bags large pots of delicious smelling food, these women were obviously celebrating something.  The lovely ladies were wearing ceremonial brightly colored costumes and enjoying themselves thoroughly. What’s going on in Hong Kong today?

Indonesian ladies celebrating in Victoria Park
Indonesian ladies celebrating in Victoria Park

A street vendor who had costumes to try on for picture taking told us that it was Indonesia New Year this week.  I researched this but couldn’t confirm his information.  No matter, there was some partying going on–we’re talking thousands of women giving each other manicures, singing and smiling.  What a joy it is to immerse yourself in a local culture by walking through the local parks.  The few brave men who were jogging through the park were looking around in amusement at their minority status.  Better run fast, gents, these ladies outnumber you 1,000 to 1 and some might need husbands!

Socializing in Victoria Park
Socializing in Victoria Park

After wandering the park, we sought out a/c in the first urban Ikea we had seen in Asia.  Same meatballs, same furniture.  Since we own all Ikea furniture back in the U.S., it was like being at home.  Sure enough, many of the Indonesian ladies had perched themselves in the living room showrooms to socialize in the cool conditions. Smart!  Next stop was the local mall where we checked out the Apple store (empty!) and the Gap, where we bought James some clothes.  He never asks for clothes but the shirt he was wearing today was at least 5 years old so he was due some new duds.  Not overtly appreciative of our shopping on his behalf (he’s 21 after all) he did change into a new outfit when we had returned from the pool portion of our day.

Hopefully, James will be feeling better tonight for a trip to the Peak for some picture taking.  Tomorrow, we visit the Big Buddha and ask for the lucky lottery #’s for Danny, our hotel butler.  He asked us kindly today to bow 3x times and ask for guidance from Buddha.  If we receive “89”, then we are not being respectful enough because the lottery #’s run 1-45.  When we win, Danny informed us that he will become GM of the Grand Hyatt and we can be CEO’s.  Sounds good to me, Danny!  Big Buddha, here we come!

Hong Kong Pool Paradise

Okay, so I’m not the Pool Police but….when you walk by the lifeguard, who promptly gags and sticks out his tongue, face twisted with disgust, you know that perhaps you should NOT EVER wear a Speedo.  Poolside at the lovely Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, we were treated to a sight no one should have to see, especially on vacation.  Ah, the pool is a happy place most of the time but there will be times when averting the eyes quickly is the only way not to go blind.  Other than that spectacle, the palm trees were waving with a gentle breeze, the water was warm and the view of Hong Kong Harbor was spectacular.  The guy in the Speedo, not so much.

Enjoying a “Seize the Day, It’s Great To Be Young” moment, a trio, two gals and a guy with a great British accent, walked by the pool and then proceeded to jump into the pool with the gals fully dressed and the guy, quickly stripping down to his undies.  After proclaiming loudly, “I LOVE MY LIFE”, they swam over to us and asked the “kind gent” to forever capture the moment with their cracked, water logged iPhone.  Thom, of course, accommodated.  Hope they synced to the cloud cause that phone is toast… well, soggy toast.  The lifeguard, happy to finally have something to do, growled at them to get out of the pool.  Of course, there was no way the lifeguard was jumping in to get them–hotel lifeguards wear sweater vests and shorts here in Hong Kong–all very proper.

Unable to leave the gorgeous sunny oasis, I drank my water and observed all the comings and goings in pool paradise.  Unable to secure a chaise lounge early on, we camped out in the lounge/smoking area.  Seems that cigars are big here as there were several guys puffing away.  Yuck.  One poolside business meeting was taking place over a crystal decanter of amber liquid in addition to the stogies.  All very power and manly-like.

Guys ogled the girls in their teeny tiny bikinis as usual, though here, the pool attendants couldn’t help themselves with one pair of gorgeous gals.  They asked to pose with them for pictures.  Ah Instagram!  Hard to imagine what sitting poolside would have been like without smart phones, tablets and Kindles to keep us busy sharing the moment instead of just living in it.  What did we do???  Maybe nap and relax or even talk to our friends and family??  That’s just crazy talk!

Pool Paradise at Grant Hyatt Hong Kong
Thom Enjoying Pool Paradise at Grant Hyatt Hong Kong

 

Now, I usually just lay by the pool and don’t swim all that much.  Really, swimming in a pool is like taking a bath with strangers who probably pee at will and share all kinds of icky stuff among themselves.  However, on this hotel day, I threw caution and hygiene to the wind and dove right into the Petri dish of human filth.  Felt great!  After a crazy week of work, this is just what I needed.   Of course, I can’t wait to shower off.  Let’s be real.

Tonight, we’ll seek out the famous Night Markets and I’ll bargain like a mule.  After all, there is a little space in my suitcase for just a few Hong Kong bargains.