When the sun comes out, so do the umbrellas, hats, gloves and long sleeve shirts in Shanghai. Here, I’m told that as part of the culture, local gals (not the dudes) try very hard to keep their skin as light as possible. This past weekend, with beautiful sunny weather in the 60’s, we saw the ladies in full protective mode so as not to suffer the ill effects of the rays.
Cover up, the sun has come out! This lady is adding layers instead of taking them off.
Tonight watching television, one of the ads was for a Vaseline product that promised 4X lighter skin with application. REALLY??? I find that very hard to believe but, as Thom pointed out, maybe that means if you apply the white cream and don’t rub it in, your skin will be whiter. Truth in advertising, not so much.
Back in the U.S., where it is still snowing across the nation, sun worshippers would celebrate this warm weather by lathering up with tanning oil and donning their thongs. Thank goodness, they cover it all up here in China. Exposing all that bare skin is not only a recipe for skin cancer but most people really aren’t in good enough shape to be sharing their pasty flesh with others. PLEASE keep it covered!
So, I’m terribly spoiled because Thom usually accompanies me on my frequent business trips or I travel with peers who speak Chinese. This week, I went it alone, travelling to Beijing and Nanjing by my lonesome, English-speaking boring self. NEVER. AGAIN. Not only was I bored and lonely without my travel partner/best friend/hubby but he was too back in Shanghai. So we learned our lesson-it’s better together. Now, on to share with you the highlights of my LAST solo journey.
Playing the Laowai card at the train station in Shanghai ALL BY MYSELF, I walked up to the only cashier with no line who was arguing vehemently with a local woman. I know that this is the place to cash in tickets for refunds from a previous trip and no one speaks English but I marched right up, ignored the squabbling woman, who by now was really irritating the crabby cashier, probably trying to cash in a fake ticket for money, and handed Ms. Crabby my receipt and passport and smiled really big. The cashier was only too happy (well, happy is a strong word–perhaps less pissed off might be more accurate) to divert from the local woman who stomped away. Done and done—I was off to the Laowai Haven on the second floor of the terminal—Costa Coffee. They have good coffee, free wifi, nice seats and a quiet civilized atmosphere so I could work until it’s time for my bullet train to Beijing. Before settling in, I ran by one of the many kiosks selling stuff and selected a set of earbuds to use in the gym. I had to leave my set at the office to use as a sample to buy for swag for our team so I’m earbudless—not cool. There are many times in China you need to tune out the world and this trip was looking to be certainly one of them.
Four hours into the train to Beijing, let me count the MANY ways I missed Thom horribly:
*no one to watch all my possessions when I go to the bathroom, making any trips awkward and hurried as I rush back to my seat hoping everything is still there
*no one to lift my “I packed way too much stuff” luggage into the overhead on the train—in the US when you are a woman and have a big bag, almost always a guy will offer to assist but you’ll die from waiting for a dude in China to help you. Ladies, you had better work out and get some muscles if you are travelling on your own.
*no one to check the train bathroom to see if it is moderately disgusting or totally disgusting, as it gets towards the end of the journey and all the guys have sprayed their DNA around every available surface and there’s no toliet paper or paper towel left. Of course, I travel with my own tissue and hand sanitizer (don’t leave home without it, EVER!) but I miss Thom doing a recon for me to determine if I go or cross my legs till we get to the hotel. Forget using the train station bathroom as most are squats and TOTALLY revolting.
Of course, I missed Thom’s sparkling, witty conversation as well but did manage to get a lot of work done on the journey. Boring but productive!
At least the guy next to me on the train watched movies on his iPad and didn’t smell too bad, take his shoes off or hock up a lung up like the guy across the aisle. I finally threw my new earbuds on and cranked up Keith Urban to mask his frequent loud retching and snotting all over himself. I’m painting a pretty picture, right? My seat mate did order the local lunch and I had to cover my nose while he ate it—some kind of pickled cabbage threw an overwhelming smell at me that caused me to do evasive action to prevent vomiting. When going by train, pack your own food or starve. I had a lovely bagel and one of my prized Strictly Cookies peanut butter special. Carbs galore as usual because I can’t eat the mystery meats. Yum!
Finally arriving in Beijing, I can only hope Michelle Obama will chose to visit Beijing when I am there from now on. The AQI was a lovely 25, a new all time low, on the day she arrived. Coincidence? I don’t think so. I could even see the mountains in the distance, which is a true rarity and just lovely. Just like Michelle, I do tend to stand out in the crowd. While waiting in the lobby of our office building in Beijing the next day, a very charming European gentleman approached to introduce himself and ask if I would have time to be in a Dahlmer automobile video shoot in the next building. Why no, kind and handsome gentleman, I explained I was on a tight work schedule but appreciated the offer. My colleague from Italy asked if he could be a part of the experience and was excited to be able to be in a video. I’ve gotten used to people taking my picture often on the street but this was my first “official” invite to model–a new career perhaps as I enter my “mature and still not looking too bad” phase of my life??
Cereal goes with milk-except in China where yogurt is offered instead
Testing my patience to the limit and needing some basic sustenance while taking an early morning conference call, I tried to order cereal and milk for breakfast from hotel room service in Nanjing. This became a major production as I had room service calling me and running back and forth to the kitchen several times to get my simple food. Seems that they thought I should put yogurt on my cereal not milk. No thank you.. Yes, noodles would have been easier for them to understand but I just am not ready to “go local” yet and always opt for safe food that won’t have me hurling into the nearest potted plant. Ahhh, memories!
Mr. Sax Man in Nanjing
I finally forced myself out to take a walk at lunch while in Nanjing. I was rewarded with stumbling upon a lovely local park featuring part of the ancient wall and a local entertaining a group of children with his sax playing. He sat in an archway, playing his tunes and making all our lives better. Thank you, Mr. Sax Man, for showing me that even if I am by myself (which will NEVER happen again, just saying) I should take time to get out, smell the polluted air and enjoy a slice of life during my busy work days.
Back home again with Thom, we both learned from our week apart that we NEVER, EVER want that to happen again. So put on your travelling shoes, Mr. George (Cole Haans, of course for my “shoe whore”) and OFF WE GO!
Yep-a bike on a busy street in Shanghai and she’s talking on her mobile.
You see bicycles hauling stuff every day in China but at no time EVER have I seen a bike roaring down the street loaded like this one! HOLY. HELL. And she’s talking on her mobile while pedaling down this busy street in Shanghai with what looked to be a load of Styrofoam boxes held together with duct tape. That takes not only leg power and balancing but attitude as well–she is taking up a whole lane for cars who were honking and seriously peeved at her domination of the road. You go girl-PEDAL POWER!
Men in kilts, women dancing with blow up dolls, unlimited Bailey’s and Guinness=IRISH BALL! Or, as I call it, prom for grown ups who like to drink ALOT. Thom and I attended the Shanghai Irish Ball at the Shangri La Hotel last night with our buddies from Trivia Night. A table of mainly Brits enjoyed a fun-filled evening with entertainment galore, silent auctions/raffles and great food. Oh, and unlimited booze which many took full advantage of until 4 a.m. When we left after midnight, they were starting the second dinner service and the dancing/drinking was going strong.
Kilts galore, of course!
I haven’t worn a long gown for many years but loved being able to dress up fancy and step out with Thom, who never did get around to getting a tux made but looked handsome in his bow tie and black suit. Next year he wants to wear a kilt. For the ladies, it’s all about the pictures and everyone was taking photos on the balcony overlooking the Bund. I narrowly avoided catastrophe when I just missed tripping on a spotlight illuminating the huge shamrock. Visions of broken bones and teeth still haunt me as I realize the close call I had as I fumbled over it in high heels. But, God was watching over me and we proceeded to take photos for another couple in exchange for them capturing our moment as well. Everyone thought our Windows Nokia Lumia Phones took better pictures than their iPhones-of course!
The food was very good if you consider trying to serve about a thousand people simultaneously. Shrimp/tuna to start followed by pastry encased mystery soup (they said it was French Onion but no way did it taste like that) and then on to filet mignon and a delightful chocolate mousse to end. And, of course, wine/champagne/Bailey’s/whiskey–which our table of Brits took full advantage of all night.
All Dolled Up!
After dinner, we kept checking out silent auction items to ensure we were final bidders. Thom was unable to secure the gorgeous handmade console table he wanted, though I don’t know how we would have gotten it home. We did get a lovely rice basket and a painting that many thought was ugly but we loved. Our taste is definitely off center when it comes to art. Having bought last minute raffle tickets, we were surprised to win the 2nd prize of a spa/hotel/food/pearl package that included randomly a set of Irish socks as well. NICE! Of course, someone had stolen the pearls out of the bag so they have to go buy some for us. Not holding my breath on that one but the rest of the stuff is very nice. First prize would have been more awesome as it was a trip to Ireland. Next year!
All in all, a really fun evening out in Shanghai with some new friends. Life is short so you have to seize the moment and dance like there is no tomorrow. Glad I didn’t drink like there is no tomorrow though because Hannah woke us up early this morning after only a few hours of sleep to celebrate her birthday. HAPPY BIRTHDAY BABY GIRL!
So, when I heard our executive retreat would be at the naked Stables Private Reserve my first thought was good luck explaining THAT on my expense report. Yikes! No, you don’t ride naked on the horses through the China countryside…ouch. The “naked” part refers to the natural, organic experience this resort creates in the Yangtze River Delta in the tiny town of Moganshan four hours outside Shanghai.
A Yurt to Call My Own
After the bus ride from Hell, where we were taking bets on how many times our bus would hit other cars (luckily only once!) we barreled up the mountain dodging log trucks on the hairpin turns. I put on my headphones and closed my eyes so as not to have a heart attack. Almost as scary as that bus ride in Vietnam. Why do I keep having these death defying bus experiences??? Luckily we made it there in one piece and didn’t get lost like my peers did, wandering in the dark for hours. There’s no GPS or cell coverage out in the wilds of China so kiss your ass good bye if you don’t have good directions going into the trip.
Gorgeous 60 Acre Resort
As we entered the stone and wood lobby, I wondered how on earth did they build such a swanky (and eco-friendly) resort in the middle of nowhere China??? There were large villas and thatch roofed yurts dotting the hillsides along with stables on the 60 acres. Land Rover has one of their few “experience centers” where they will take you on a thrilling mountain ride in their cars–no thanks! One of my peers took the ride and his video shows an adventure I do not want to experience, hurling down mountain muddy roads to showcase the ruggedness of their product. No thanks, I’ll take their word for it and, besides, I would never spend that much on a vehicle.
Speaking of vehicles, there are no cars allowed within the resort so you get around with the aid of golf carts. Unfortunately, I couldn’t figure out how to call the desk to get one sent to my Yurt so I set out to try and walk till I came upon one racing up and down the roads. As I walked with my bag, backpack, etc. I came upon the local ladies walking up the mountain to come to work at the resort. They laughed at me walking aimlessly and waved me to join them. I did and it amused them to no end. When a cart did race by with several members of my group, I waved good bye to my new friends and hopped on the cart to make the journey. Later in the day, I ran into one of my ladies in the resort and she gave me a huge smile. She won’t forget this crazy Laowai any time soon!
In addition to horses, the resort offers several pools, spa services, pottery classes, hiking on paths, dumpling making classes (they were yummy!), archery and bars/restaurants galore. The food and service was very good. Whoever runs this resort, they know their stuff. Not inexpensive but worth every penny.
Dumpling Class
My Yurt was gorgeous and had it’s own patio/outdoor shower and large round bed. I am totally bringing Thom and our friends, Patti and Larry, back here in October. While I don’t relish the ride getting there (a long four hours in bad traffic getting out of Shanghai) you can take the train to Hangzhou and then get the resort to pick you up. I look forward to having some quality time in the countryside, wandering with Thom on the hillsides looking for pandas among the bamboo forest. I love our time in the cities exploring the street life and historical sites but I look forward to more time spent in the countryside exploring another side of our new home. Of course, it helps to stay in a high end resort with bathrooms and bars while I’m doing it. 🙂
After a hectic seven day straight work week in Beijing and Nanjing, we got home last night to Shanghai ready for some serious R & R. Don’t get me wrong, we stay in nice hotels and love seeing different cities but there is nothing like being able to go to your own kitchen for a snack and our Slumbermax memory foam mattress=heaven! Though it takes a VPN and more patience than I can muster, I was able to catch up on episodes of Nashville on HuluPlus while munching on Girl Scout cookies. Wild Saturday Night in the George house!
Sunday dawned with sun and mild pollution so we were anxious to get out and enjoy the spring day. As we headed to the gym, I think every kid was out playing and driving their parents crazy in the common areas of our complex.
Green & Safe-a restaurant expats love in Shanghai
After gym and church, we started to wander around the former French Concession and stumbled into expat central. I have never seen so many Laowais milling around especially at the grocery/wine/deli called Green & Safe. What a great descriptive title, right? In polluted Shanghai where food safety is questioned at even the nicest places, some genius built an oasis where organic stuff sits next to a carb wonderland with fresh baked breads and pies/tarts/oh my! The salads, soups, sandwiches and pastas were gorgeous and tasty. Yes, it was very green and hopefully safe. Of course, it is China so you just never know but you can always hope. If I’m not sick within an hour of eating, I consider myself lucky.
Carbs galore!
Thom had a Pink berry lemonade with lemon & mint-very refreshing and healthy and not the slightest bit girly or anything. I sipped on the free, pour your own sample sparking wine. So I’m thinking the owners might want you to only have one sample but I was thirsty. Since this is an easy walk from our church, I think we have found our new Sunday brunch spot. Free wine samples and all that green & safe food. I feel healthier already. The inside is very concrete, wood, stone, hipster styling. We sat at the ledge looking out into the street and played guess the nationalities of the customers–French, German, Italian, etc. were all there.
A busy week again for me with a work retreat for a few days and then off to Hong Kong, so I had to work in a mani and shopping to look good. Nothing like light blue nails and a few new outfits from Gap and Zara to gain some confidence and energy. Of course, I wear the largest size they carry at the Gap so THAT was depressing–yep, size 8 is the BIG size here in China. They carry XXXS, which I didn’t even know existed in sizing. As I walked home in the dark along the quiet streets in Pudong, I reflected on how safe I felt. I would never walk alone in downtown Seattle after dark. Of course, after the train attack with crazy machete-wielding terrorists indiscriminately chopping away at innocent people and the possible plane going down due to terrorists, I am starting to feel some apprehension as I travel around a country that will definitely have to strengthen their safety procedures to prevent future problems. Here’s hoping for that! Wand me, pat me down, scan my stuff and do it with diligence and attention to detail with everyone PLEASE!
What a difference a day makes! We arrived in Beijing to apocalyptic pollution-350+ AQI which means the air was “hazardous” and choking full of bad shit that was being sucked into our ever dying lungs yet the locals walked around without masks and went about their daily lives like it was no big deal. And I thought I had low standards after getting used to 150 AQI days in Shanghai. I strapped on my new 3M mask that was awkward but no doubt necessary even if I didn’t have a pollution app on my phone warning me of dire consequences if I stepped outside unprotected.
3M lung saving mask
Today, as the CPPCC & NPCC meetings take center stage in Beijing, the air miraculously cleared, in part due to a stiff wind and probably some government restrictions to clean up for the big events and world press in town to cover it. As we walked through Tianenmen Square on Monday, we saw a very heightened increase in police presence and even had to submit to several security searches of my bag. Again, probably due to the meetings this week but also the nation is now on high alert due to the recent terrorist attack on a train station in the south. Still, Thom and I both agree that we feel far safer walking the streets of China at night in any neighborhood, no matter how remote or dark, than we would in the U.S.
When I woke up to blue skies, it was such a delight that we had to go out on my lunch hour and walk the streets. Thom had already got in a lot of exploring so we headed out to a small alley he had discovered where he dared me to eat live scorpions and bugs on a stick. Yes, they were still waving their little parts and pieces as if to say “Get me the F*&$ off this stick” but the food vendor offered to fry them up for us because crispy scorpions are soooo much tastier than live ones. The various bugs on a stick and intestines on skewers were tempting but I opted to remain hungry and live to eat another day.
Thom had one scary moment this week as he walked around the hutongs of Beijing and happened upon a group of protestors waving a petition. As a security detail came to investigate the group, they decided to run after Thom as well, thinking he was part of the press perhaps. Luckily, I have taught him to just ignore anyone without a gun, so he increased his pace, headphones on and ignored it all until they caught up with him and then he just did the “laowai shrug” and walked away with a smile. The big ass camera he walks around with takes lovely photos but does make him a target at times. He’s a tough New Yorker so I have to believe he can take care of himself (and it’s not like he would pay attention to my plea for him not to take chances) but if you ever see him on a “have you seen this guy” posting on a China website, don’t be surprised! In the meantime, he will keep trying to make soldiers smile and scorpions squirm with delight as he records it all with his sensational snapshots of our adventures in Beijing.
Just call me a local because my new regular work commute is to Beijing via the bullet train–a four hour journey speeding through the polluted countryside. We set off today for a week long adventure to Beijing and Nanjing. Thom and I are always amused at the security “lite” detail at the train station that consists of putting your stuff through the scanner while the security gal texts her friend and shops online and being wanded haphazardly as they yawn in boredom…it is quick and painless, at least for us. They seem bored to death. My husband who always seems to pack something he shouldn’t is lucky that they are so bored and not very attentive. He doesn’t mean to pack sharp objects but, hey, you never know when you might need something in an emergency. Of course, hours before our trip today there was an “incident” at another rail station in China that was concerning. Never worry–we will be as careful as we can and, after dodging traffic in Shanghai and Vietnam, we are very nimble and can get out of the way of trouble quickly. We have also learned to be prepared and pack first aid and meds just in case.
Disney Shop at train station. Disney World opens in 2015 here.
After racing through security, we walked through various American stores like Disney (featuring the blingiest Mickey stuff imaginable), Jeep, Polo, etc. that line the train station. We never see anyone buying anything but the snack shops are always busy with folks buying tasty treats like dried seaweed to take home to the relatives. Then, we head over to Costa Coffee (they have a Starbucks too, of course) and sometimes we score an egg tart at KFC but today Thom got a toastie-a yummy breakfast sandwich with a meat-like substance. He’s really not that picky and never seems to get sick like I do from the food so I passed. After Thom visited the men’s room aka the “smoking lounge”, we headed over to the gate, dodging the DNA that seems to come hacking out of most passersby. COVER. YOUR. MOUTH. It’s really not that hard! I wait to go to the ladies room on the train–the station has “squat” bathrooms which I avoid if at all possible.
And I thought I overpacked! People here haul LOTS of stuff on the trains!
At any time/any day the station is packed with people and they do NOT travel light. I thought I overpacked but, holy Hell, the crowd here is loaded down with those ubiquitous plastic expanding bags that haul LOTS of stuff and you learn to get out of their way fast as they drag their possessions through the tight aisles or you WILL be mowed down.
Playing the “laowai” card, we go to the VIP gate and talk our way through feigning ignorance of the real process of waiting with the masses streaming through the regular gates. We board the first class car and settle in for the four hour ride to Beijing. Strap on the air masks and off we go!
Life in China is difficult to say the least. Some days just staying alive seems to be a challenge….will the bus hit me or will the pollution get me first? I regularly go into the epicenter of bad air, Beijing, where the frequent AQI of 500+ is apocalyptic to say the least. But, business needs dictate, so off I go! My new masks will be put to good use. The breathing valve helps to not fog up my glasses and looks oh so fashionable as well.
I hate wearing my mask!
In order to combat all that seriously unhealthy stuff we face daily, I am trying to take some steps to stay alive. First, we only use bottled water. Okay, I use bottled water and Thom doesn’t–he has a stronger stomach than I do. I even had to yell at Thom today to make sure that he washes our food with bottled water too. No tap water ever passes my lips. Ever. Then, we have started buying fruits and vegetables from the online Western store that guarantees organic quality produce. Who knows if it is really organic since I don’t trust anyone or anything in China but their food has got to be healthier than the van on the corner pedaling produce. We also go to the gym in our apartment complex and we take lots of walks when the pollution isn’t too bad (again, our standards here are very low as anything below 150 AQI Unhealthy Level seems good to us now).
Fruit Juice Bars are plentiful in Shanghai
This week I got a cold and then life seemed very difficult indeed. I worked from home today so I wouldn’t have to go through the commute which is difficult and where I probably got the cold in the first place from my millions of fellow commuters who hock and spray me with their DNA daily. Thank goodness we have all the OTC meds you could want because you can’t get them here in China. Someone today suggested I try Chinese Traditional Medicine (CTM) but no thank you! The only time I tried CTM, I bled from a place that should not ever bleed. Nuff Said. I did end up going to a doctor eventually for my self-diagnosed bronchitis. He barely spoke to me and told me to rest to get rid of it. I laughed and asked for antibiotics and cough meds instead and he then grudgingly gave me a prescription. I would love to just “rest” but I am on the road again next week to Beijing and Nanjing and need to get well fast. Give me drugs that work quickly!!!
People say that in Shanghai there is nothing to do but smoke and drink and eat. Not exactly a healthy lifestyle! It’s hard to make friends when you are empty nesters like us. I actually met another woman executive when I was waiting for Thom outside our massage place, Dragonfly, and she and her family seemed to be checking it out. We had a nice talk (she’s an exec with Disney) and Thom actually has already gone out with her trailing spouse to play cards with some expats. We also met another nice couple on the plane home from Vietnam and I look forward to getting to know the gal, who is another woman executive with a trailing spouse. Go women executives in China -there are a few of us! Of course, we go to Trivia Night at the Pub. We really enjoy the crazy Brits that are in our group but healthy it is not—between the greasy pub food, alcohol and plentiful smoking, we come home and have to immediately strip our smelly clothes that have absorbed a pack of Marlboros. Yuck!
Of course, the stress from living in China, being away from family and friends, working at a new job, etc. is tough on us as well. We have started to go to church and that is helpful to me. I have to remember to pray frequently and remember all my many blessings every day. Some days are harder than others but it’s always better when I pray.
It’s Date Night and foot massages are once again on the agenda! Arriving at Dragonfly, we didn’t think to schedule the private couples room for our massages so we were shown to the “big” room where 8 barcaloungers were spread out in the darkened room. After initially recoiling because I like my privacy, the soothing water fountain and twinkling lights on the ceiling put me at ease. Thom joked that he had arranged for the “big” room because I had to shut up and not talk to him or risk disturbing everyone else-he thinks I have tendency to gab instead of quietly enjoying the massage as he prefers. So, since I couldn’t jabber, I slipped on my headphones and listened to Cyndi Lauper because “girls just want to have fun”! Cuddling with a blankie and warm lavender infused rice pillow….ahhh….now, this is my idea of fun on a cold night in February in Shanghai! At only $23 US with our VIP discount card, it’s expensive by China standards for a foot massage but Dragonfly is very clean and upscale, especially the one in the IFC Mall where we go in Shanghai.
Reclining in the leather loungers looking up at the twinkling lights while they rub our feet for 60 minutes…ahhhh….
With thumbs of steel, even though it was a 60 minute foot massage, she started with my shoulders first while my feet soaked. Moving on to my feet and calves, every inch was massaged in great detail. Last time, we had the hot stone foot massage but this was equally nice and I actually preferred it—those stones were FRICKIN’ HOT!
As my massage ended, I was a little jealous of the person across the room getting the double treatment—one gal massaged his feet while another worked on his shoulders. Maybe next time! You would think 60 minutes is a long time to get your feet rubbed but it actually goes by very quickly and ends before you know it. Thom’s ankle, which was still hurting ever since his Vietnam incident, actually felt better after being massaged—we were worried it would hurt more but it ended up being very healing. Putting on my Uggs for the long walk home, my toes were happy, warm and content at least until the cold, long, ugly subway commute on Monday morning. BLAH!
Travels with Melinda 