Shanghai Farewell Tour-The “Mule” Hits The Market

“Take Thom as collateral”.  Please.  I offered my hubster earnestly to the scarf lady who wanted 100 RMB to ensure we would stay and wait for her to retrieve our requested 200+ scarves I wanted to buy.  As Fiona interpreted, she shook her head fiercely in protest, indicating that the crazy Laowai was not a good trade–we settled on 20 RMB which tells you what Thom is really worth.  Just saying, sweetie–Chinese perspective.  Nothing personal.

With rolling suitcase and multiple Ikea blue bags in tow, we journeyed to the South Bund Fabric Market to bargain the day away.  Now, I’ve been known to be called the “Mule” at the markets and today was no exception.  No comment, those of you who know me.  Note–I have also been called a “bulldog” at work but that’s another story.  Funny, I never get compared to the quiet, beautiful animals like a swan or cuddly ones like the panda.  Hmmm…

I started with Thom’s favorite Tibetan lady (gal in the red in the pic) with her jewelry spread out on several blankets outside the market–you get a better price if the vendor isn’t paying for stall rent.  Having previously bought a few pieces, I knew the price and pieces I was looking for–no  more than 25 RMB ($4 US) and lower is better.  Unfortunately the Tibetan lady didn’t stock quantity in any items so on to the next blanket.  The word spread fast that I was a “buyer” and the vendors put two and two together with Thom watching over our large suitcase…. this Laowai had some RMB to lay down!  Let the stampede begin.

Let the negotiating (and screaming) begin!
Let the negotiating (and screaming) begin!

They started rushing me with similar necklaces to the one I had picked up to check out.  I finally found one gal who had some multiple units of what I was looking to buy for our accessory business that Thom/James will run in the US online plus I was buying for my friend Patti to start her own business back in the wilds of Indiana.  God Bless Fiona who just laid into it with her as the bargaining began and quickly became heated.  As the Mule with the RMB, I kept shaking my head and using my best Mandarin bargaining phrases that always come in handy.  A couple watching it all go down (guy in blue shirt) wanted Fiona to help them too but she waved them off–she is our bulldog negotiator.  I did share with the nice folks what they should be paying so they didn’t get ripped off.  I’m nice like that–sharing the “Mule” tips to the world.

We got what we wanted and a few stink eye glares from the vendor (white/black check shirt gal) who still took my RMB.  I was disappointed not to get all I wanted but I'[l go back to the AP market, where I have found it’s easier to find 10/20 units of the same necklace, which fits our online store concept model better.  Thom’s so excited-more shopping and carrying bags.  Oh Joy!

Then, it was off to the back local street to gather up 200+ scarves for 8 RMB ($1.33) each for really nice prints on large cotton-like scarves.  At first overwhelmed at picking out 25 or so patterns, I quickly starting using my print radar to pick out the best on the cart.  Fiona told me later that the local women were watching my selection process and, drawing a crowd, immediately started buying whatever I was choosing–the crazy Laowai lady must know her stuff, right???  Thom swears his very presence attracted the ladies but we all know better.

Scarf explosion
Scarf explosion

After refusing Thom as collateral, off the vendor went to her home to get the stock we needed–back in 30 minutes she promised.  A hour and a half later, she finally showed up with LOTS of scarves in tow.  While we waited for her, the vendor’s mom told us we needed to straighten the scarf display as we had messed it up with our selection frenzy.  Sure, no problem, I got this.  I have many, many years of retail experience.  After just a few folds, the lady told Fiona to tell me to STOP!  It seems that I may need some scarf display lessons as she suggested to Fiona that NO ONE WOULD BUY the scarves I was rolling up to stack on the table.  Okay, message received.  After I had paid for my many scarves, though, everyone was all smiles.  Good day at the market for all!

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Be The Duck

THE BIG DUCK HAS ARRIVED!  Back in Shanghai after furiously working for two weeks at the new job in the U.S., Thom and I didn’t waste time getting out and about on a beautiful sunny blue sky day on Saturday.  Destination–the big Duck.  Yes, the famous Duck had arrived to sit on the pond in Century Park and be admired by millions of selfie happy locals.  Twenty deep in some spots close to the big dude, we weaved our way up close to take our photos as well. If there were more ducks on display, the world would be a happier place.

My, what a big duck you are
My, what a big duck you are

The duck has special meaning to me as one of the courses I taught had a “Be The Duck” theme and I decorated with plastic yellow duckies everywhere for ambience.  I will probably be forever known as the duck lady to my classes but, as long as they remember to be calm like the duck on the outside when presenting material while paddling furiously unbeknownst to the seeing eye, I’m okay with that.  I still carry my own little duck in my briefcase to remind me daily–kind of like a “never let them see you sweat” mantra.  It works. It also makes me smile every time my bag hits my leg and quacks a little.

Be The Duck
Be The Duck

After the duck encounter, and really, who doesn’t love a duck, we headed over to the AP market to make someone’s day.  You see, we’ve decided to do a little import/export business selling accessories back home.  We’ve made some great connections here and when someone compliments you on the $4 necklace you bought and asked if you got it at Anthropologie and did it cost $88, well, you know you’ve got a business just begging to be created.  My friend Patti and I will work with Fiona, our language teacher here, to buy, ship and sell lovely scarves and necklaces.  We’ll use our profits to fund more travel adventures and possibly have James assist so he can earn money to pay for law school.  More to come as we transition to Seattle and get it up and running!

Walking miles back to the apartment, ’cause that’s what we do, we soaked up every detail and smell on the streets.  Oh how I have loved living here and, yes, it feels like home.

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Wedding Shanghai Style

Many days we have walked by a hotel and seen the beautiful (and expensive) cars decorated with flowers to celebrate a wedding.  And when I say expensive, I am talking that a Porsche is the entry level with Bentleys and Rolls Royce being preferred–the bigger the car, the better the status.  We walked by this lovely Porsche on a hot sunny day recently and admired it’s beauty until we saw the driver sawing logs reclined in the front seat and quietly snuck away so as not to disturb his beauty sleep–weddings will do that to you!

Wedding car is decked out with floral hood ornament
Wedding car is decked out with floral hood ornament

The ritual seems to be that the bride/groom lead the wedding processional in the most elaborate car with a hood floral centerpiece with the wedding party cars decorated more discreetly with flowers on the side mirrors. Not having actually been invited to attend the inner sanctum of a wedding ceremony, I can only imagine how over the top the flowers are there if their gorgeous cars are any indication.

Romeo and Juliet style for wedding photo shoot on the Bund
Romeo and Juliet style for wedding photo shoot on the Bund

As in the U.S., the ceremony might be nice, the food should be good but the pictures are everything.  On weekends especially, if you go to The Bund or the parks, you will surely see the brides and grooms getting their pictures taken in picturesque settings, posing with their wedding party.  This occurs sometimes months before or after the wedding or for their engagement party. The dresses are elaborate and gorgeous.  No expenses spared for Chinese weddings!

It seems like the river boats on the Huangpu River are rented out for weddings frequently. Typically, you will see a huge banner hanging on the side with portrait of the happy couple. Nothing like seeing yourself 12 feet tall and flapping in the breeze to celebrate the happy day.  Can’t imagine what that sets back the parents paying for those parties. Yikes!

We were at the Cool Docks recently and the center restaurant among the fountains had been decked out for a wedding in the evening. We didn’t stick around but I’m sure it was just beautiful. White cut out light cylinders indicated a night wedding with the formal chairs and runners all in white and very formal.  Party on!

On another night as we were going to Shook bar on the Bund, we ran into, literally, a wedding party just breaking up.  The flowers were everywhere and their backdrop banner provided Thom and I with an unique opportunity to “borrow” their props.  Always the newlyweds we are!

Taking advantage of wedding collateral at Shook! Bar to pose with my love
Taking advantage of wedding collateral at Shook! Bar to pose with my love

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Witnessing the Feast of Sacrifice

WARNING:  Do NOT read this post if you are a child, have a weak stomach or love sheep.  REALLY. I’M NOT JOKING.  This interlude may have scarred Patti for life and instead of remembering the cuddly Panda’s we saw at the zoo, she’ll never forget the sheep doomed to die.  That being said, it is China and as we say here, you can die fast or you can die slow.  The sheep unfortunately had to go the route of the former vs. the latter.

While strolling as a group to the local wet market as part of our cooking class, little did we know we were going to witness a ritual to celebrate Eid al-Adha, the feast of sacrifice.  NOOOOOOO…we thought we would pick up some ingredients for our lovely lunch and then merrily skip back to Helen’s apartment for our class.  Along the way we saw the cutest sheep tied to the fence so we stopped to take some photos.  It’s not often you see live animals in the streets of Shanghai, so I had to take a photo of the boy feeding the cute sheep a leaf.  Little did I know that would be his last meal on Earth.

BEFORE
BEFORE

Coming out of the market, we saw a group of people with their phones out taking pictures.  As we got closer, we saw that the cuddly sheep had been sacrificed and were strung up by their hooves and were being butchered right there on the street IN FRONT OF CHILDREN!  While Emily, the vegetarian in our cooking class, quickly ran away screaming, I felt I had to document what was the most gruesome sight I have ever seen.  If I wasn’t somewhat of a vegetarian before, I am now.  Thom quickly informed me as he shot photos, that this must be the hajj faithful offering a sacrifice by slaughtering a sheep with the meat going to the needy.

AFTER
AFTER

In the Shanghai Daily, Thom had read an article on the festival that 1.5 billion Muslim around the world celebrate.  While I respect the culture, it was shocking to see it played out in public for all to see.  But that’s why I came on this adventure-to experience new and different cultures–so it was fitting that I witnessed this while still in China.  Still, the sheep were so cute….

 

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Newfound Love for Martini’s

With my best buddy Patti along for the martini tour, we have been sampling Shanghaitini’s as often as possible.  Believe it or not, Patti had NEVER EVER tasted a martini before in her whole entire life.  WHAT???  I am so honored to be able to be the one to initiate this martini virgin into the ways of the tini.

Appletini and Me
Appletini and Me

Of course, first stop was Morton’s who has an incredible Happy Hour with a variety of martini’s with unlimited steak sandwiches too for only 45 RMB.  What a bargain for strong alcohol and bloody meat that won’t kill you.  SCORE!  That being said, don’t ever eat off the menu at Morton’s cause it will cost you a fortune.  Still smarting from that $350 US dinner bill we had this year after I failed to realize just how expensive steak is in China.  Never again, Thom!  I don’t care how good that filet mignon was, it’s not made of gold.

But back to the alcohol….While I used to avoid any drinks with ice and any drinks that even touched ice to cool down the alcohol due to the water toxicity in the ice, I have since gotten over it and embraced cold cocktails in China.  Bring on the margarita’s and martini’s–I am fearless AND stupid now.

Patti enjoying the second martini of her life at Blue Marlin
Patti enjoying the second martini of her life at Blue Marlin

With a cinnamon sugar rim and a nice pour, Patti enjoyed her first sip and that was it.  A martini fan was born.  Though I still drink martini’s too fast vs. sipping wine, I feel a need to mix up my alcohol choices.  A woman doesn’t live by wine alone but, I guess you could.

At the Blue Marlin (where we have been eating free for months due to winning a 2500 RMB gift certificate at the Irish Ball), we decided a martini tasting was in order.  While the rim was only sugar, the taste was still there–sweet and sour and green all over-yum.  Looking forward to tasting more martini’s in Seattle when I return.  I’m betting Patti finds a martini bar in Indiana to continue tasting Appletini’s Midwest Style.

 

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Everybody Was Kung Fu Fighting

I know it’s cliché but we just had to go to one of the tourist shows they put on in Beijing. I had a recommendation from a local that The Legend of Kungfu at the Red Theatre was one to experience. So, off we went to check it out.

Thom, Patti & Larry pose in front of the Kung Fu boy at Red Theater in Beijing
Thom, Patti & Larry pose in front of the Kung Fu boy at Red Theater in Beijing

Arriving early (you never know with Beijing traffic so you leave early and hope to get there on time), we wandered the gift shops and took photos of the young boy sitting on the throne outside the entrance. Finding a place to relax on a balcony, Thom and Patti quickly took off their shoes and let the massage chairs get to work on their tired feet after walking all day. Ahhhh…..never mind who else had their feet in their recently, all hygiene was forgotten and pulsating commenced until the show began.

This is the "Thom walked my ass all over China" look on Patti's face
This is the “Thom walked my ass all over China” look on Patti’s face

We had paid about $55 US for our Row 16 middle seats and, as the primarily Western tour group population filed in, we were quickly surrounded by a full theater. With a pulsating beat on the wood blocks by multiple bald Kung Fu dudes placed around the sides of the theater, the show began with lots of strobe lights, fog and action. The loose story was about a boy being tested by hard challenges and bewitched by a beautiful fairy (why are women always the troublemakers??) before he could practice Kungfu and Zen to become a master and ascend to the sacred goal of enlightenment with the obligatory old dude with super long goatee to champion his efforts and teach him the wise ways of the world.

The best parts for me were the incredible acrobatic action between the couple twirling high above the stage by holding only fabric panels and then when he did the feats of various incredibly sharp objects being jammed onto his body. Who knows how they withstand that pressure but perhaps abs of steel??? Looked painful to me but made for good theater and probably some bruises.

The Young Man is tested by many challenges in his Kung Fu journey
The Young Man is tested by many challenges in his Kung Fu journey

At the end, you were allowed onstage with the actors to take photos if you bought some outrageously overpriced gifts in the shop. We made haste and just took some photos of the group by the stage and then walked the dark streets begging for a cab to take us home. Amazingly, Thom flagged one down who, of course, had turned off the meter and charged us double for the ride. When in Beijing and it’s dark, you do not argue. You just hand over the RMB and be happy you found a ride.

Cast members at end of show pose for pictures..if you buy something from their gift shop
Cast members at end of show pose for pictures..if you buy something from their gift shop

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Rickshaw Rides and Pagodas Galore

Our day at Beihai Park encompassed so many fun adventures–riding around the lake in the Duck Boat, dancing and seeing beautiful pagodas.  Seeing a bell tower, I forked over 10 RMB a piece to climb the stairs and ring the big brass bell. The attendant pantomimed ringing it 3 x per person for luck in the new year. We let Patti do the honors and my ears are still reverberating. Climbing down the narrow stairs, we decided they were made for local feet vs. our big old soles. Just like my other size dimensions, I am considered large here but looking forward to being average to small back in the U.S.

69 Steps to the White Pagoda!  Climb baby climb!
69 Steps to the White Pagoda! Climb baby climb!

After the 69 (yes, Patti counted them) steps up to the White Pagoda, we enjoyed the view of the lake and park and heard beautiful music being made so off we went next to find the source of the pleasant sounds. Nearing the lake shore, we saw a crowd gathered and investigated to find the music blasting and more dancing going on. Two lovely ladies in red were delighting the crowd with their graceful moves. Kids joined in and everyone watched as they graced us with their presentation. It’s moments like these that celebrate the happiness of small things and joy in movement which I will always remember about our time in China. Think I could get Seattlites to dance more in the parks…in the rain? Maybe choreograph a routine with umbrellas?

After a rest and a pretzel we had scavenged earlier from our hotel breakfast, we went to look for a rickshaw ride. Not wanting to slow down for lunch (more people put food as a priority but we do not-a practice that Patti and Larry are getting used to but probably not loving), Thom and I munched on the energy bars, fruit and water that we always carry with us to eat on the run to save time and money. Patti and Larry had wanted to go on a rickshaw so despite Thom’s insistence that he never, ever was going to do this tourist trap ride, we found two gents reclining on their rides waiting for a fare. As the negotiator for our group, we had decided that 100 RMB would be our highest rate to pay and that’s what we got our rides to agree to. Patti was afraid that the old guys would have a heart attack pedaling our asses all over the hutongs but luckily they had electric bikes so no one was killed on our journey, though we did almost become bus fodder when our dude defied the odds crossing the street just as a big one tried to kill us.  Guess it wasn’t our day to die as the rickshaw hit a burst of speed and just barely evaded it.

Rickshaw Romance with my one true love!
Rickshaw Romance with my one true love!

We flew into the hutong in our electric rickshaw but stopped several times for photos, especially after our driver became enamored with Thom’s cool 1020 Nokia phone to take the pictures. He wanted us to do several poses each time and then review his results with Thom. After stopping for a pose at a classic red door and then into a hutong courtyard, we ended our ride with lots of smiles and thank you’s. Thom admitted he had a good time and it was a nice way to support the local economy.  Very romantic and a ride I won’t soon forget!

Shanghai Farewell Tour-What The Duck!

After wandering through a hutong by the Forbidden City and stumbling into Beihai Park by accident last year, I have always wanted to go back and experience this beautiful park again. Locals dancing, boats gliding around the lake and singers entertaining the local crowd plus beautiful temples make this an enchanting place.

Ladies in Red dancing for the crowds in Beihai Park
Ladies in Red dancing for the crowds in Beihai Park

Now that we are on the Farewell Tour and enjoying our last visit to Beijing, it became more urgent to make it happen. So on our last day in town and with the heavy pollution clearing and the sun shining, we were able to explore again the most beautiful place in Beijing.

Patti & I hanging on for dear life--no life preservers provided.
Patti & I hanging on for dear life–no life preservers provided.

Going in a new entrance this time, we immediately saw the Duck Boats, still available for rent due to being early in the day. Off we went! Sign a release of liability?  NOPE!!  Instructions on how to steer or safety instructions?  HELL NO!!  Life preservers or any type of flotation device to save our sorry asses if we have an accident?  ARE YOU F&%KING KIDDING?  This is China and, as with anything in China, you are on your own so you better pray you don’t get hurt.

Thom and Larry started us off in charge with Patti and I enjoying the lake views and variety of boats–dragon boats for the many, little wood electric boats, round tulip-like boats and our Duck variety all raced around the lake.  Occasionally we saw a speed boat cutting through the traffic to get across the lake and deliver some important person to their destination.  The more money, the bigger and faster the boat.  In China, it’s all about the status.  I’m not sure what our Duck Boat says about our status but I’m betting no one was very impressed with us.  Since I had just taught a class where the theme was, “Be The Duck!” (as in a duck is calm on the top of the water gliding gracefully while underneath the water (where no one can see) the duck is peddling fast and furiously), it was a foregone conclusion that we had to pick the Duck as our boat of choice.

Needing some exercise, I took over the peddling and steering to take a tour of the lake. Crazy parents let their spoiled kids steer so it was like bumper boats with one family intentionally ramming us with their electric boat while we pedaled like maniacs to avoid them. BAM! Since they were aiming for us, there was no avoiding it so you might as well smile and hold on for your deal life.  Luckily no damage and after lots of laughter on their part, we continued on our journey around the lake. 

After watching the ferries from our apartment window daily and how they turn and slam into the docks, I mimicked their moves as we approached the end of our journey. BAM! I’m such a local now.  The attendant hooked us with his long pole to tether us to the dock and off we went to our next adventure in the park.

Shanghai Farewell Tour-Century Park Day

I have always wanted to cycle around Century Park and HOT DAMN-Saturday was the day! With abnormally blue skies and puffy white clouds (am I really in Shanghai??), we set out with Patti & Larry to make my dream come true. The bicycle built for four with a little canopy was all the rage in and around the park. For only 100 RMB an hour (300 RMB deposit) we climbed aboard with Thom at the wheel. Now, with his driving behavior (he drove a NYC cab for God’s sake), this wasn’t the best decision as within yards of staring out, I was screaming out in fear. DON’T RUN OVER THAT CHILD! While we could all pedal, we found out quickly that only the driver really had control over the steering and the brake-note to self, learn these type of things before you decide who will be the driver.

Bicycling around Century Park
Bicycling around Century Park

Quickly, Thom found out he was all powerful and I had no control. WRONG! The locals were letting their small children drive the carts instead of taking control so it was Thom vs. toddlers fighting for space on the broad lanes around the park and lake and Thom soon found out that the toddlers wanted to own the road.  Cool and sunny, the weather was so perfect to enjoy the water and greenery everywhere if we weren’t so frightened that someone was going to get run over by Thom. The folks had already pitched their tents by mid-day and were ready to have a full day of fun in the relatively clean air. We stopped by the bonsai park where really big ass bonsai’s were laid out to walk through. We killed two bonsai’s at our house so I have healthy respect for these massive ones being able to live outside in the normally murky air.

Just a short cab ride away, after jumping aside while the pesticide truck went by spraying chemicals on plants and pedestrians alike, we had a very western lunch at the Blue Marlin. Ensconced in an outdoor mall with the usual H & M and Starbucks, we enjoyed the lovely weather eating outside and wrapping our hands around big honking hamburgers. Not me, of course, since I get sick easily and had already experienced turbulence early in the day so I just had a liquid lunch and a granola bar. For some reason, screwdrivers don’t make me sick. Lucky me!

Happy workers spraying deadly pesticides on bushes and pedestrians alike
Happy workers spraying deadly pesticides on bushes and pedestrians alike

Then, adequately fueled up, we were off to shop the AP market. We were regulars now and have several shop favorites where the ladies are cheerful and give us local pricing vs. the tourist markups. I was able to bargain like a mule for Patti to obtain the necessary souvenirs for loved ones back home. Larry had the misfortune to trust Thom to bargain for him for an item. When told how much he paid, I laughed and thus was given the challenge to go buy the same thing for less to see if I could. Don’t taunt a mule-it turns ugly quick. I was able to get the same item for half the price Thom got. MULE WINS EVERY TIME. Larry will never forgive Thom or forget he overpaid. Thom told him to cost average and let it go.  Lesson learned, Larry!

Tired with bags full of cool stuff for Christmas presents for our loved ones, we eagerly went home to put our feet up. If only every day could be foot massage day!  Oh, wait, we live in China (at least for another month) and we have a VIP Dragonfly Massage Card with a big balance of RMB to use up before we move home so every day IS massage day.  Hallelujah and bring on the masseuses.

The Shanghai Farewell Tour Begins

This the hardest blog post I have ever written and I’ve been avoiding it for days.  Because, if I don’t write about it, it won’t be true. But it’s time to face the truth and move on.  Last Friday, I found out that we would be leaving China two years earlier than I thought. It was sudden news and unexpected to say the least. While I am lucky to still be employed, I almost feel like a part of me has died. I have so loved this great adventure in China. The unusual, always fascinating world swirling around me daily, as I walk to work and travel with Thom will be ending next month and I am sad.

Big Plus to Repatriate-spending time with Hannah!
Big Plus to Repatriate-spending time with Hannah!

Why didn’t we travel more? Why didn’t I work less? I thought the first year here would be the time to dive deeply into the new job and learn and create and work harder than ever. Then, I could enjoy more of this exotic region the next two years with plans to visit Cambodia, Australia, Thailand, Taiwan, and other parts of China over the many Chinese holidays we are given. Alas, we have really only seen Beijing, Nanjing and Shanghai plus Hong Kong. We so enjoyed our visits to Vietnam that I know that other parts of Asia would be equally cool. DAMN. If only….

So, while I am thankful for what I have and the experiences we enjoyed, it is a life lesson to share with all that should be remembered. Enjoy the moment. Live in the day and don’t wait for anything. Yes, you still have to plan for the future but you just never know. So, the next few weeks while we have our friends, Patti and Larry, staying with us from the U.S., we will conduct the Shanghai Farewell Tour and visit new places as well as say good bye to our favorite haunts around China.

This week, I had already scheduled a work trip to Beijing so despite the news, we are still going and I will get to say good bye to the wonderful folks I hired and trained here. I’ll get to take my childhood friend to the Great Wall (my fourth trip) and we will scream all the way down the toboggan there-one of my favorite things to do in China. We will find a panda somewhere to gaze at and maybe even hold for enough RMB—hoping the Shanghai zoo has a few since Patti really, really wants to see one and we’ll enjoy eating out on our gift certificates to various restaurants that we have acquired and, of course, the VIP massage card. Patti is very willing to help us use up the RMB still left on the massage account. Foot massages galore!

So, I will hold back the tears and appreciate everything I have been given. I will look forward to seeing my awesome family more often and spoiling my granddaughter, the beautiful and smart Mia, who is the inspiration for our new online business, Mama and Mia, that we will launch soon with my Hannah creating fashionable headbands that ALL the cool babies will want to wear and personalizing baby quilts from Vietnam and blankets from Uganda—benefitting the women around the world who make them.

Most of all, I will be grateful that I have had a chance to live in a different culture and understand that the world is a big wonderful place that Thom and I will continue to explore from our Seattle base. While one adventure is ending, many more are just beginning! Watch out world-here we come!