Bargaining Should Be An Olympic Sport

Today we ventured out to the AP “fake” market in Shanghai under the #2 subway line in Pudong.  We have been there many times to buy pearls, sports jerseys, Rolex watches, LV bags, etc.  I see bargaining for the lowest possible price as a sport.  I just wish it was an Olympic sport because I would totally own a Gold Medal.

Our mission was hunting for stylish yet waterproof rain boots for me.  With my commute of 1.3 miles each way to/from work and no taxis in sight when it rains, I am tired of stepping in the lakes that form quickly in the streets resulting from the city planners–shocker ahead–obviously not realizing that it rains heavily in Shanghai many months of the year. Where the hell did they imagine all that water was going to go???

Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market
Thom checking out local shirts to get custom made at the AP market

Anyway, we went straight to our “shoe lady” who has sold us many a Converse-like shoe in the past.  She gives us the local price not the laowai inflated price and she has a nice smile.  Today, James found some nice leather sneaks but, after trying on hideous Croc-like rubber boats to keep my feet dry, we had to keep looking.  The popular Hunter boots were everywhere but I’ve had those (Hannah now looks splendid in them) and they’re just too hot and heavy for Shanghai.  Unfortunately, nothing else really else presented itself except a leopard plastic boot that I just couldn’t bring myself to like.  So, after heavy negotiating I got a short version of the Hunter mock lizard which will make my feet sweat like a bitch but perhaps will be waterproof–with the fakes, you never know what quality you’re getting until you wear/wash them.  They may last and they may not.  I told the guy I lived in Shanghai and would be back in his face if my feet got wet wearing his boots that I got for 160RMB.   He just smiled and waved goodbye.  He has no idea what’s in his future if my feet aren’t happy in the next monsoon.  Watch out mister!

Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market
Hunter rain boots and turquoise necklace-my bargains from AP market

Since my birthday was this past week and I ended up sick instead of celebrating, I decided to treat myself and give Sarah’s Pearls a visit because I just know they miss my bargaining like a mule which makes Thom cringe.  After seeing a long turquoise(like) and silver necklace, I knew it would look super with a simple black dress so into the lovely sequin bag it went for only 100 RMB–she started at 280 RMB.  Like a mule I am!

After negotiating for a brightly patterned pillow cover–I do have a serious pillow fetish for our boring beige couches–we started looking at custom made trench coats to accompany my new rain boots.  I’ll have to do some research on styles but I shopped for pricing and found I could get one for about 600 RMB (down from 2400) custom made in a few days.  SOLD!  Can’t wait to go back and order when my friend Patti visits.  I’m sure she’ll want some custom clothes too and I can get a better deal if we buy multiple items.  I truly do deserve a Gold Medal in bargaining because I save so much money that I can just keep on shopping, shopping, shopping!

Cronuts have descended on Shanghai! Run for your forks!

Billed as “The desirable dessert from New York” the Woody Baker (named after the NYC icon Woody Allen perhaps??) in Shanghai has an array of Cronuts to nosh on.  I had heard so much about this hot craze in New York where people stand in line for hours just to get these type of pastries so I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to see how Shanghai interpreted the famous Cronut.

The two layers of custard are yum but messy!
The two layers of custard are yum but messy!

Two levels of croissant-like pastry with cream custard piped between and on top.  Awkward at best to eat by hand, I used a knife and fork to cut bites for the family to taste.  I tried cutting it with just a fork and it was too dense so the knife was needed. Unlike the donut or croissant that you could walk and eat on the street, if you try that with a Cronut, you will have custard sliding down your chest in no time as you try to rip it apart with your teeth.  NOT.  PRETTY.   They didn’t give out forks (or chopsticks-now, that would be a challenge!)  with it so I am thinking that you are supposed to eat by hand.  NO WAY!   Since there wasn’t chocolate involved (but you can get those), James thought it was just “okay” and he went back to reading his book.  His favorite dessert is brownies so Cronuts are definitely not his thing.

If you want to be "cool" eat a Cronut!
If you want to be “cool” eat a Cronut!

 

Now, the Chinese culture doesn’t really embrace sweet desserts.  Fruit is the favored meal ender here so judging by the lack of crowds at Woody Baker on a busy Saturday, I’m not sure building a bakery on one type of pastry is a sound business model.  It was just me and a Brit dude forking over the RMB.

And starting at 18 RMB ($3US) and going up to 26, these desserts are not cheap.  The average Chinese citizen would never pay that much.  Westerners like us are the target audience for sure.  Located in the Xintiendi area (think Manhattan of Shanghai), perhaps they can find enough laowais to stay busy baking.

Thom tasted it  and pronounced it “cannoli with a hint of donut” vs. croissant like.  The flavors offered are:  white chocolate pastiche, white chocolate Oreo, chocolate almond, banana special, fresh blueberry, coco cream and the original. Lots of variety if you want a tasty, very messy, cannoli-like, donut shaped treat.  New York or Shanghai–the Cronut Craze has gone worldwide!

Mornings in Shanghai

Mornings in Shanghai start slow.  I’ll never forget that first time I showed up all perky at 6:30 a.m. at the local Starbucks by the Four Seasons where we were staying on our first trip over to Shanghai.  Not open yet?  WHAT THE HELL?  How is a Starbucks not open by that hour?  After a few days of wandering around trying to find an early caffeine fix, I discovered that most coffee places (and there is a café on every corner) open by 8 a.m. but not before.  This falls right in line with the start of the typical office work day which is never before 9 a.m. and more likely to be 10 a.m. by the time everyone wanders into work.  Not me, of course, but everyone else in China.

AM Fruit run
AM Fruit run

I am an anomaly in Shanghai (and really everywhere in every way if I’m being honest) as I usually wake up at 5ish and am ready to walk to work by 8 a.m. at the latest.  As I do my new commute to the SWFC offices, I get to see the locals just getting started for their day.  This usually consists of a stop at the food cart where you can get scallion pancakes or steamed buns plus the daily fruit buy, which right now is very melon focused.  The ayi’s actually deliver fruit to our office desks every afternoon-very refreshing.  Melons, grapes, apples, etc. just appear like magic–all juicy and delightful.  Love this China tradition–YUM!

The shoemakers and vendors selling their wares are not up yet when I am on my way in–they work late into the evenings.  Most of the locals do not have a/c so everyone tends to stay outside in the streets dancing and socializing well into the evening probably to let their apartments cool down after dark.  The heat this summer in Shanghai isn’t as brutal as last year.  I remember melting in the 100+ degree heat many days after coming over last August, especially in contrast to the coolness I was used to in Seattle.

All by ourselves at Camel Pub, Pudong, watching Seahawks and enjoying breakfast cocktail!
All by ourselves at Camel Pub, Pudong, watching Seahawks and enjoying breakfast cocktail!

Speaking of Seattle, we were so excited to discover a Friday night Seattle vs. San Diego preseason football game would be played in real time at our local pub but at Saturday morning 10 a.m. our time.  Entering the dark pub that early in the morning, we woke up the staff and got them to boot up the TV’s so we could, all by ourselves, watch the game.  Screwdriver please!  They served me a salad with my scrambled eggs.  Sorry-not too early for the screwdriver but way too early for a salad.  I still have a Western stomach.  Of course, I’ll probably die of food poisoning.  I’ve been warned never to eat at an empty establishment because the grill will be cold so the food served will not achieve enough heat to cook the food thoroughly.  Time will tell….

Guess there are either no Seahawks fans in Pudong or it’s just too bloody early for most of the blokes around here-yes, most of the expats are Brits that we have met.  American Football–what’s that?  If it was a big rugby match, the bar would be packed!  Plus side to be the only ones here–no smoke.  Everyone smokes here and you go home from any bar smelling like a pack of Marlboros.  The muzak is heavy into 70’s with Barry Manilow (Thom was once mistaken for him in the 70’s on a NYC subway–worse compliment ever) and Johnny B Good.  Ahhh, mornings in Shanghai….eggs/salad/cocktails, bad 70’s muzak and Seahawks Football–no better way to start the weekend!

 

Daily Craziness That Is Life in China

I enjoy the daily craziness that is living in China.   Always something new to see and experience.  This past week my commute has been upgraded to walking to/from work vs. taking the subway.  Hallelujah!  Of course, it’s 90+ degree with 110% humidity daily so by the time I arrive, I am soaked but still, it’s  nice not to be crammed into an underground tube with millions of coughing strangers.  At least on the street, the DNA being spit out has room to expand and a chance to blow away if I’m lucky enough to enjoy a breeze.   Now, I usually embrace public transportation as easy and cheap but enjoy it not being a daily necessity.  This past week when we were in Hong Kong, we travelled by subway and enjoyed the clean, well marked and lovely lime colored ambience.Hong Kong Subway

My fellow walking commuters crack me up.  Several times I have seen ladies of a more seasoned age walking backwards down the sidewalk.  Now, are they just crazy or is there a reason for this awkward commuting behavior?  I’ve researched online and many opinions exist including that the Chinese believe that walking backwards is good for the brain and stops memory loss and also that it improves your balance.  Thom believe that these lovely ladies I see think walking backwards is like going in reverse in a car and rolling back the odometer— acting like a time machine, you can easily take years off your life!  Of course, it could just be as simple as:  WHY NOT?  Makes perfect sense to me.

The stories just rolled in this week of odd behavior that people wanted to share.  A friend visiting from the U.S. just had to tell me about his “shocking” experience in the public bathroom.  Standing at the urinal, the dude next to him dropped his pants and proceeded to do his thing buck naked from the waist down.  Again, WHY NOT?   When I told Thom this story, he one upped it by telling me his story of odd public bathroom behavior.  He was using the facilities when in walked a gent who proceeded to not only drop his pants to use the urinal but then proceeded to waddle over, pants pooled at his feet, and wash his junk in the sink.  Needless to say, Thom made the wise choice to use hand sanitizer vs. waiting to use that sink to wash up.  Smart man!

bathroom monkey

Now, some of you may be just dying to know more about the local slant on why you should poop more often so I am sharing the article I read this week that is just hysterical and comes with handy tips–read on if you dare:

http://www.cityweekend.com.cn/shanghai/blog/health-matters-poop-yourself-happy/

For those of you who might just want a quick quip from the article, here is a snapshot, “..Chinese fruit stalls also sell fancy gift boxes of fruit.  So while your colleagues may have thought that when you bought your angry supervisor a box of pears you were pai ma pi (kissing ass), what you’re really doing is making the workplace better by helping your boss be a little less full of shit.”.  The author makes a good case for the perfect gift for all–fruit, fruit and more fruit!

Who knows what craziness will greet me this week as I walk down the street on my morning commute??

Looking forward to the unexpected and the crazy as I relish the adventure of living in China.  Now, I’m off to buy some pears.

 

 

Thor The Adorable

James christened the newest member of our family, Thoraxis, after an alien character from a show called Community that I have never seen.  I just watched the movie, Thor, on the flight back from the U.S., so I have decided to nickname him after the hunky superhero in the movie.  Though, Thor should have been named Chewbacca because he is a tiny black fur ball who can’t stop chewing on everything in his path.  We have tried to channel his teething on chew sticks and toys but he prefers paper and my Surface keyboard instead.  THOR!

I was in the U.S. when Thom saw a post on a local blog seeking foster parents for a rescue dog.    His sharp tiny teeth may not hurt now but Thom insists that we try and discipline him now or he will start having our Cole Haan’s for dinner soon and that’s a deal breaker. 

Right about now as I’m taking cute puppy pictures, I feel a warm wet feeling in my crotch where Thor has been playing with his chew toy.  This can’t be good.  HOLY. HELL.  THOR!  The little bugger has let loose all over my beautiful red chaise and me.  How can such a little creature make such a big pee stain!  As Thom joked, “Puppies give you a warm feeling all over and sometimes it’s not a good thing” or something to that effect.  Ha.  Ha.  Sure, easy for him to joke since the pupster didn’t pee on him, though he did clean it all up.  Of course, Thor’s favorite place is next to Thom’s computer under the desk lamp.  Let’s see if Thom is as jovial when he has a wet stinky PC to try and dry out.

Adorable Thoraxis right before he pissed all over me.
Adorable Thoraxis right before he pissed all over me.

Thor only weighs over a pound now and is still on antibiotics for various ailments resulting from being the runt of the litter.  When we return from our trip to Hong Kong, he will hopefully be well enough to get his vaccines so he can venture outside.   Who knows what breed he is but he won’t grow big.   Of course, my daughter thought that too about her pound puppy Oliver, the Great Dane.  Oops!

Our Chinese tutor, Fiona, has kindly agreed to puppy sit for us while we are gone.  I’ll have to warn her to watch out for the little ankle biter’s couch wetting problem but I know he’ll melt her heart with his little puppy eyes.

Even with the large wet spot still drying out on my chaise, we love you Thor and welcome you to the family.   Now, go get on your puppy pad for a time out–tough love, Thor!

 

 

 

Styled by Hannah

I was lucky enough to spend time with my family this week in South Bend, Indiana.  Clean air and blue skies!  Even better, my gorgeous daughter Hannah and Baby Mia accompanied me to spend quality time with my sister, Mom and best friend Patti.  What a great time we had!

My beautiful daughter and stylist Hannah
My beautiful daughter and stylist Hannah

When it proved to be too hot for a Zoo visit on Saturday, we hit the mall instead.  Yes, it cost me more than the Zoo but we so rarely get quality shopping time together so Hannah took advantage of the opportunity to style an outfit for me. I also had to procure a statement necklace for her so that she would give me back the one she is wearing in the picture–I love it and just am not willing to give it to her–yet!  No worries- we found a beautiful substitute at the mall.

It was fun visiting the University Park Mall where I worked as the Assistant Store Manager many, many years ago at L.S.Ayres when Hannah was only 2 and James was a baby.  That’s a story for another time but, desperate to leave my job that I held while pregnant with James, I interviewed for my new job that would take me to the UP Mall only 7 days after giving birth.  Several week later, we loaded up the car and moved to South Bend, Indiana.  We were, and are, truly crazy but enough reminiscing and back to my new outfit.

After finding Baby Mia the perfect dress to accompany her parents to a friend’s wedding in Coeur d’Alene next week, we had some time to shop for ourselves and we made the most of it.  Finding fashion bargains is truly one of Hannah’s skills.  She can go to a thrift store and come out with a stunning outfit originally from Anthro for less than $20 and looking spectacular.

I love the quality of Banana Republic and know what size I wear without needing to try anything on-a time saver!  Hannah combined the trendy polka dot cotton shirt with basic chinos from there but made it POP with the new statement necklace and my zebra belt.  My new nerd glasses from Warby Parker, bought on our last NYC trip, give the hipster edge to the look while the Cole Haan wedges, which are actually comfy to walk in, give me a needed lift since I am severely height challenged.   Thank you, Hannah darling, for making your Momma look stylish for her meetings! Watch out Hotlanta-here I come!

Styled by Hannah
Styled by Hannah

 

Warby Parker Fillmore Glasses: https://www.warbyparker.com/eyeglasses/men/fillmore/tennessee-whiskey

Francesca’s statement necklace and earrings: http://www.francescas.com/category/jewelry/necklaces/statement.do

Banana Republic polka dot shirt, zebra belt and chinos: http://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?cid=84171&pid=970435&scid=970435002

Cole Haan wedges-picked up at Nordstrom Rack (my fav!) two years ago in Atlanta–classic and comfy!

 

 

 

Long Distance Nai Nai

Many of you know that I am a long distance Nai Nai with the birth of beautiful Mia to my daughter Hannah and her hubby Mike.  Thom has been with them being the supportive Gpa since her birth but now will come home to China this week.  He is already crying at the thought of not seeing them every day-yes, he is the biggest baby of them all!  I had to leave a week after her birth to come back and work, which is important to the whole family, but I cried a lot too.

To say I’m heartbroken not to be closer to assist would be an understatement.  As we were just emailing back and forth about our dream to start a business together, my little Mama is up at 3 a.m. feeding the ever hungry Mia.  Sure, I can’t help with THAT but if I was there I could come over in the morning and watch Mia so Hannah could get a much needed nap.  I am so proud of her and what a great Mom she already is and how strong she is but, oh how I wish I could help.  Until we can be together, dearest daughter and baby Mia, your Nai Nai will pray for you LOTS and work on getting our family business up and running so we can all be together in the future.  I love you.

Mama Hannah and her Mia-love so strong from the start
Mama Hannah and her Mia-love so strong from the start

Dining in the sky anyone? Only in Shanghai!

 

High Tea

High Tea for Everyone

Is this crazy or what???  I actually saw this happening on Friday when I was at a business lunch a few blocks away.  At first, we thought it was workers being lifted to a construction site but then, they stayed in the same place, hoisted above the city, for quite awhile.  Then, I see this article on the front page of the Shanghai Daily explaining that this is just a restaurant stunt and a very over the top way to show your status by dining in the sky.  Three courses for lunch, no less!  And you just know that they were drinking the whole time.  I can only imagine the tipsy patrons after the next stunt–a seven course wine dinner.  Perhaps the restaurant will provide not only food and alcohol but nets and bouncy mattresses on the ground below to catch the guests if they tip over.   This is just nuts–eating and drinking while hoisted by a crane with no doubt limited safety features.  When in China!  Only in China!

 

It’s Human Eat Dog Festival Time

The headline in the Shanghai Daily reads, “Early dinner for lovers of dog meat”.  NOT. KIDDING.  It seems that there is an annual summer solstice festival in Yulin City in southern China where residents gather to eat dog meat and lychee in celebration of the longest day of the year.  This is so wrong on so many levels that I can’t stand it!  We didn’t bring our beloved Izaak to China with us because it was very difficult and a long hard journey for him to endure.  Now, while I miss him so much, I am feeling much better about our decision.

Many Chinese Dog Owners love and take care of their best friends
Many Chinese Dog Owners love and take care of their best friends

TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) is huge here and beliefs around what each type of food you eat can do for your body.  Apparently local residents believe that dog meat strengthens the body, especially in summer and ensures good health throughout the winter.  Man’s best friend elsewhere is just another way to prepare for the long winter ahead here.  I get that life in China is rough and that people will try anything to stay healthy but let’s just get these folks some Walgreens with OTC meds readily available and they can go back to enjoying their puppies as pets not meals.

Now, I see dogs everywhere I go in China and while they sometimes have pink hair or are wearing jogging outfits and booties, you don’t see dog meat on the local menus.  A co-worker did admit to having dog “hot pot” with a friend and told me it was considered a delicacy in some places.  He also said it was delicious.  I don’t think I’ve looked at him the same ever since.  Yes, I am judging you.

Animal rights activists have caught wind of the dog meat festival and are protesting.  The paper said that strays are grabbed off the streets and could have diseases.  Oh, so the animal rights activists are concerned with the effect on the people eating the dog and not really advocating for the dog???  Activists are also quoted as saying “the public backlash was damaging the image of Yulin and China.”. You think?  The local government only asked restaurants to take “dog” off the menus and signboards but did not ban the sale and consumption of dog.  So, if you are travelling in Yulin in the near future, as always in China, watch where you eat.  That could be Fido in your Hot Pot.

A Shanghai Midsummer Night’s Dream

First question to Tim Robbins, “How tall are you?”. Answer:  6 foot 5. Yep, folks, he is one tall drank of water.  Even with white flowing hair, he reminds me of his character, “Meat”, from Bull Durham, one of my favorite movies.  These days, Tim has moved on to directing, though when questioned why he changed from being an actor to director, he replied that he first acted at 12 years of age and started directing at 14, so he has been at both for awhile.  These were not deep questions to probe the inner workings of the director but hey, it’s China.  I enjoyed hearing what was on the minds of the Chinese audience after seeing the play.

Magical
Magical

All the actors and their director gathered on the stage after their performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream in Shanghai. Opening night and it was not sold out. These were Actors’ Gang thespians and they rocked this surreal world of fairies, spells, lovers gone bewitched and crazily complicated language that stayed true to the original story with few exceptions.  To see it in China, the first time that The Actors’ Gang has brought a play to the China mainland was special.

Chinese audiences are still learning how to react to concerts/plays in my experience and true to that, it wasn’t until the end that the audience started responding with some laughter in appropriate places. Having gone to concerts where the audience doesn’t quite know where to clap or respond, the lack of a standing ovation for this wonderful performance didn’t surprise me. When the announcement came that the actors would speak to the audience who wanted to stay after, I was surprised to see how many people ran for the exits. Maybe they didn’t understand but here was a unique opportunity to ask the whole cast direct questions. From my seat in the front row, it felt very intimate and very interesting. Tim was questioned why he chose this Shakespeare play to direct. He said, in this time of turmoil in the world, that this play spoke to love and how fragile yet important it is to all.

I was super proud of myself for going by myself, though I wished Thom was there throughout. It’s always more fun with Thom. Since he is still in Boise setting up our new house, I decided I had to get out of the house and see this great play. After the taxi driver took me on the scenic, more expensive Laowai route, and then got misdirected to buy tickets, I hustled to my seat with minutes to spare. For about $40 US I got a front row seat on the side behind the one man band, which was interesting to watch. I don’t know his name but I’m betting he has done many different musical pursuits in his career. He played the guitar, drums, bells, tambourine, etc. to add drama and flair to the performances.

One Man Band
One Man Band

With Chinese subtitles broadcast on big reader boards, several of the predominantly Chinese audience craned their necks to read what was being said in English but most people just let the performance flow over them, actions taking precedence over words. Even if they could not understand everything that was going on, and really, who can with Shakespeare, everyone enjoyed the dramatic acting and ambience created with simple props.   There was no fancy sets-actually none.  The imagery for this production was created by the creativity of the characters, music, and costumes.  I love Broadway plays and saw many when we lived in NYC but the sets are usually very elaborate and can distract from the actors’ performances.  During this play, I was mesmerized by the ability of the twelve actors to create the mood with branches of trees, flowers and their bodies moving fluidly about the stage.

With dressing lockers on stage at either side, I thought it might detract as the actors raced to change between costumes and characters.  The article in the Shanghai Daily today explained that this set up was a decision by Tim to “strip away the artifice of theater” and it worked.  Tim even told us that he had to add a dream scene to the play because the actors needed to stall for more time to transition costumes.

Dressing rooms on either side of the stage facilitated quick changes for actors
Dressing rooms on either side of the stage facilitated quick changes for actors

Why is it that men in drag always draw a laugh, no matter what language they are speaking? That and crotch grabbing are universal and always appreciated by audience.  Crazy but very predictable.  Well, whatever, it was nice to hear everyone laughing and having a good time.  Many families were there, exposing their children to the great Shakespeare, probably for the first time.

All in all, even though I was Thom-less, I’m glad I ventured out to experience this wonderful production.  I am in awe of the troupe’s amazing ability to transform words into a magical world where love conquers all despite the chaos of the world around us.  Thank you, Tim Robbins.  Well done indeed.