Shanghai to Chicago

I knew I was back in the USA when I saw the “No Gun” sign posted prominently on the door of the boutique in Chicago.  Unbelievable that this preventative action is required to alert all gun-toting shoppers to check their artillery at the door or no Michael Kors for you!  Probably just a fashion statement vs. a safety precaution because, really, the gun holster would ruin the look of the outfit.

Only in the U.S. do you need to post this sign to high end shoppers!
Only in the U.S. do you need to post this sign to high end shoppers!

Arriving in Chicago from Shanghai, I was hyper-aware of the culture differences from the moment I landed.  Delta Sky Club-I’ve missed you!  Though the massage chairs are nice in the VIP Lounge in Shanghai, I appreciated the sensory overload from all the TV news shows and newspapers offered in the Club.  Heaven for a news junkie like me!  I miss hearing all the horrible uncensored news about humanity-makes you appreciate your own life more.

Deciding that I needed to be thrifty since this part of my trip was personal, I decided to save a few bucks and wander around O’Hare to find the Blue Line CTA train to take me to downtown Chicago.  Now, doing this late in the evening by myself and never having done this before was probably NOT my brightest idea.  Honestly, I felt safer in China than I did at that moment in my home country.  After an unhelpful bored CTA attendant told me to use the machines and rolling her eyes at my request for help, she proceeded to give me wrong directions.  I hopped onto the train with about a million TSA agents going home for the day, which made me feel only slightly safer, and immediately noticed that the trains were much dirtier than in China.  Interesting.  The layout for passengers in China is for maximum capacity with benches along the side to cram people in and lots of hand holds from the ceiling.  None of that here–just individual seats molded into shapes to accommodate the larger American posterior.  Sorry, but it’s true.

Jumping off the train after about 14 stops, I had called the hotel and found out the nearest station and it was definitely NOT the one the CTA agent had told me.  Glad I’m not a trusting soul.  Trying to cram my large suitcase through a turnstyle to get out, a very helpful Chicago citizen assisted me when I got stuck.  What the Hell!!  Who builds a tiny turnstyle for a mass transit exit!  Much more efficient in China to just walk through gates to get out quickly.  Grabbing a taxi was easier than I thought it would be and off to the hotel I went, forgetting to tip the poor driver because, in China, tipping is not done.  Sorry dude! I’ll have to cash in some $$ to spread around.

Even at night, the Chicago River looks cleaner than the Haungpu River!
Even at night, the Chicago River looks cleaner than the Haungpu River!

After being in a plane for a day, I quickly went for a late night walk along the Magnificent Mile.  Seeing the China Union Pay credit card sign in the Gucci window made me feel at home–you can tell who their primary customers are!  Here, the large three story retailers are Crate & Barrel vs. Prada.  Culturally, the Chinese like to wear or drive their wealth vs. buying home fashions that can’t be shown off in public.  It’s a status thing.  I also noticed far fewer luxury cars here vs. the gold plated Lamborghini I saw last week in Beijing.  No small display of wealth there!

The streets were quiet and the cool weather was probably keeping all the diners inside vs. on the outside patios.  What a pity!  I can’t wait to get out tomorrow and walk around this beautiful city before picking up my daughter and Baby Mia to go see family.  GMA Gene and Great Aunt Becky, here we come!

Cooking Local in Shanghai

To know a culture it helps to understand the food that nourishes the local people. To that end, we decided to take a cooking class in Shanghai. Cherry was our fearless leader (www.cookinshanghai.com) who took our group including Thom and James with a couple from California and a gal from Ireland, to the local wet market and then to a local apartment to cook our meal. Allowed to have some input into the meal we wanted to create, we chose our favorite dishes: scallion pancakes, dumplings and spring rolls.

After a short walk from the subway entrance where we all met up, we walked to the local wet market. This is not a local grocery but more like an indoor farmer’s market with absolutely no health/safety standards, where you can primarily buy produce and meat/fish from stalls. Very locally priced, it was fascinating to watch Cherry pull up the picture of the produce we were looking at on her handy iPad and learn fun facts like how eating bamboo helps offset the bad effects of eating meat or this veggie can help you lose weight or have better skin complexion. Eating dates can help with dizziness–who knew???  Every food in Chinese culture has a health benefit. Finally emerging from the overwhelming smells of the fish market, I gulped fresh air like it was my last breath.

Waiting for the elevator with a local resident in his pj’s eyeing us like WTF are you doing here, we went up to the fifth floor to the apartment where we would cook our feast. Surprisingly large, Cherry explained that they had created a much bigger kitchen than normal just for their business. Before starting our cooking journey, we, of course, had to take time to get to know each other and drink tea.  Cherry taught us the healing properties of the different types of teas–White Tea to heal the stomach, Red Tea to cure “cold bones” and lose weight, etc.   While our chef began prepping for us, we chatted and learned that the one couple from California were an aeronautical engineer and a soon-to-be Berkley law student on China vacation. The Irish gal had taken a 9 month leave of absence from her job to travel the world with her boyfriend. They were or had been to in addition to China: India, Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, New Zealand and the US. WOW! I am jealous. Ahhh…to be young and have no responsibilities!

James started out as bored and disinterested but as he mixed, rolled, flipped and ate, ate, ate, he started to have as much fun as a 21 year old boy can have with his parents. As the only local residents with a refrigerator, we got all the leftovers so that made him even happier. Unable to taste anything myself due to my weak stomach, it all looked very good and easy to replicate at home. Made of very basic ingredients, we look forward to cooking more at home. Maybe I can even encourage James to use his new skills and cook for his parents…dreams can happen!

 

Dream Team
Dream Team

Blue Hair Dreams and Orange Reality

James arrived this week to spend his school break with us in China.. As we stood at the airport eagerly awaiting his arrival, Thom turns to me and says, “There is something you should know in advance so you don’t react badly when you see him.” What. The. Hell. Another tattoo? Piercings? Both popular in the Seattle college environment, I hoped that he had at least had the good sense to get them done in a place that can be easily covered with clothes as he expects to be a lawyer one day. God Willing.

Thom smiled and shared that James’ hair was now orange as a result of a self-induced hair trauma. Yes, no hiding it unless you want to wear a hat 24/7 but hair does grow back. Sure enough, sporting a mop of wild orange curls, James emerged from Chinese Customs sheepishly grinning. Thank God I had been warned so I didn’t scream in public and embarrass my “grown up” son.

The "before" look--it was orange in the bright light.
The “before” look–it was orange in the bright light.

“Are you stupid?” After a quickly arranged visit to my stylist Michael on his first day in China, James got treated to some blunt trash talk.   He didn’t really appreciate being called stupid by a complete stranger but since Michael was holding sharp scissors close to his jugular, James was wise enough not to bitch too much. He seriously explained that he had gone online to get instructions on how to color his hair blue for an EMT concert he was going to with friends. It was on the Internet so it had to be true, right?  Right?  The first step called for him to use peroxide on his auburn curls, which promptly turned them orange so he wisely stopped the process, not knowing what a coat of blue on top of that oranginess would produce. See, he’s not SO stupid. Mama didn’t raise no fool.

The "after" look-yes, I made him smile.
The “after” look-yes, I made him smile.

Since he is 21 now and legally an adult, I should have let him keep his damaged hair, to live with the results that he wasn’t bothered by in the least. In fact I think he thought he looked pretty cool.   However, since he will be introduced to people here in China that I work with, I advised him that a redo was in order for his current hair “situation”. Grudgingly but accepting of the situation, he went along with his Mom’s direction. Thank you sweetie! Threats of not paying any more college tuition were not ideal threats at all and he realized it. See, he IS smart!

Now, he is sporting a trendy yet socially acceptable “do” that is not the color of cartoon characters and I am $100 poorer. Lessons learned? Probably not-James is also very stubborn and thinks he always knows best. Where in the HELL did he get THAT attitude? Hmmmm…..

 

Home Alone No More

After a two month journey alone working my butt off and living the solitary life, my fellow adventurer has returned home. Thom landed this week with jet lag to spare. As unhappy as I was by myself, I had grown used to it. Coming home from work to an empty, quiet house after a long day and spending my evenings at the gym, eating cereal for dinner as I read trashy novels on my Kindle was boring, boring, boring. I worked too much and had very little fun. But that was what had become normal. A bad normal but still, after two months, my new normal.

In strolls my funny, grumpy, messy, noisy, opinionated partner for life. Quiet no more. Yet, instead of being thrilled at his arrival, I was irritated at times and not appreciative like I should have been. Hell, Pink, our Ayi, was happier to see him than I was. I resented him taking up my time, not wanting to go to the gym when I did, needing to eat when I was fine with a piece of cheese and a glass of wine, talking while I was working on a project. You get it—driving me absolutely f&@#ing bat shit crazy.

At night, who was that hulk taking up my spacious bed and hogging the pillows??? My pillow was stolen while I was on a nocturnal bathroom break. Not. Funny. Finally, I went to the couch to get some rest away from this strange intruder. Waking up to him making coffee was a plus for sure and softened the transition. Going for foot massage and mani/pedi night was an entre into the life that we had known and embraced. Ahhh…nothing like a spa date to bring two people together again.

Thom getting pampered after his long journey home.
Thom getting pampered after his long journey home.

As our daily routine becomes once again filled with the happy sharing of lives, we have vowed not to ever do that living apart thing again. While there were solid reasons for having it happen, i.e. helping with the new baby, moving into our new Boise house, etc., it was NOT pretty. I’m not sure how a relationship can survive separations like this or how people survive life without a loving partner and I never want to try it. Thom, WELCOME HOME HONEY! Now, give me back my damned pillow and make us some coffee.  Love you!

 

Long Distance Nai Nai

Many of you know that I am a long distance Nai Nai with the birth of beautiful Mia to my daughter Hannah and her hubby Mike.  Thom has been with them being the supportive Gpa since her birth but now will come home to China this week.  He is already crying at the thought of not seeing them every day-yes, he is the biggest baby of them all!  I had to leave a week after her birth to come back and work, which is important to the whole family, but I cried a lot too.

To say I’m heartbroken not to be closer to assist would be an understatement.  As we were just emailing back and forth about our dream to start a business together, my little Mama is up at 3 a.m. feeding the ever hungry Mia.  Sure, I can’t help with THAT but if I was there I could come over in the morning and watch Mia so Hannah could get a much needed nap.  I am so proud of her and what a great Mom she already is and how strong she is but, oh how I wish I could help.  Until we can be together, dearest daughter and baby Mia, your Nai Nai will pray for you LOTS and work on getting our family business up and running so we can all be together in the future.  I love you.

Mama Hannah and her Mia-love so strong from the start
Mama Hannah and her Mia-love so strong from the start

Lazy Afternoon in Shanghai

Happiest discovery of the day was that “my” subway line, the #9, goes right to Tianzifang Alley, my fav place to shop.  How did I not know this before??  It’s the little things that make me happy.  Pathetic.  If you come to Shanghai, you absolutely must shop there.  Quaint and photogenic, the crowded alleyways are lined with interesting stuff.  One place even had Cronuts, the croissant/donut that is so hot in NYC right now.  Trendy!

Tianzifang Alley-always fun to visit and right on the Subway Line #9
Tianzifang Alley-always fun to visit and right on the Subway Line #9

Yes, the prices are higher than at the AP “fake” market but there is a nice mix of stores and bars/restaurants to spend the day wandering and enjoying.

My favorite stores include the t-shirt shop with all original designs where you can get a really cool T for just 99 RMB ($16 US).  Not saying who I bought that awesome t-shirt for but he arrives later this week on his school break.  Luckily, he never reads his Mom’s blog so my secret is safe.  Now, I can’t say what gift I got my Mom because she is a loyal blog supporter so we’ll just say that it’s pretty enough to wear to dinner.  I had to visit the paper store too where beautiful and witty postcards share space with ObamaMao notebooks and paper picture frames to hang from twine with adorable clothespins. The resident shop cat was missing–hope she was just in the back and not someone’s lunch.

After a short subway ride home, I saw all kinds of interesting sights on the short walk home.  Sundays are a busy day as most people only have this day off from work.  The shoe cobbler was very busy as were the fruit ladies.

Shoe Cobbler is busy on Sundays
Shoe Cobbler is busy on Sundays
Watermelons are plentiful right now!  Wished I liked them.
Watermelons are plentiful right now! Wished I liked them.

I guess it is now officially watermelon season as they were piled everywhere along the street.  Too bad I’m not a fan of this fruit.  Lychee are also hot right now.  I’ve tried them-kind of slimy so no go.  Yes, I’m a picky eater.  SO. SUE. ME.   I’m an apple, pineapple and banana kind of girl with a kiwi now and then to spice things up.

The DVD store was busy too-tried to buy the new XMen movie but my guy there clued me in that it was a “bad” copy (he only does this for the regulars–the tourists go back to their home country with crap DVD’s) so I opted for the first two seasons of Orange is the New Black, which I hear is very good.  I predict the family will have a movie marathon on a rainy day soon.  Off to Beijing tomorrow–never a dull moment!

Sundays are laundry day and clothes are hung randomly all over the sidewalks to dry.
Sundays are laundry day and clothes are hung randomly all over the sidewalks to dry.
Umbrella anyone?  Locals use for shade from the sun.
Umbrella anyone? Locals use for shade from the sun.

Dining in the sky anyone? Only in Shanghai!

 

High Tea

High Tea for Everyone

Is this crazy or what???  I actually saw this happening on Friday when I was at a business lunch a few blocks away.  At first, we thought it was workers being lifted to a construction site but then, they stayed in the same place, hoisted above the city, for quite awhile.  Then, I see this article on the front page of the Shanghai Daily explaining that this is just a restaurant stunt and a very over the top way to show your status by dining in the sky.  Three courses for lunch, no less!  And you just know that they were drinking the whole time.  I can only imagine the tipsy patrons after the next stunt–a seven course wine dinner.  Perhaps the restaurant will provide not only food and alcohol but nets and bouncy mattresses on the ground below to catch the guests if they tip over.   This is just nuts–eating and drinking while hoisted by a crane with no doubt limited safety features.  When in China!  Only in China!

 

Evening Stroll in Shanghai

The culture here, especially in warmer months, is to enjoy the outdoors and stroll with friends, family and pets.  I’m all about walking and having adventures so I embraced this tradition and took a walk last night along the Huangpu River in Pudong near our apartment.  It was hot and humid with the AQI in the 160+ “Unhealthy” range, which in Shanghai means a lovely evening, so everyone was out enjoying themselves.  Without Thom, it’s not as much fun but he will be home soon, so in the meantime, I had to get out and enjoy some unhealthy air all by my lonesome.  So, off to the river walk I went with an end destination to pick up some healthy salad at Fresh Elements and take home to eat while I watch Veep, Season Three, purchased at the local DVD store.

Basketball is big here in Shanghai!
Basketball is big here in Shanghai!

Walking by the courts along the river, it’s easy to see that basketball is big here as there are usually always several games going on.  I have never seen girls playing basketball so I wonder if that is done here.  The only sports that I have heard that local girls play is tennis and badminton.  Sports in general are not really a way of life though watching the World Cup is definitely HUGE here–probably because it involves drinking and partying as well plus I’m starting to see articles about the gambling that is going on with people betting on the games.  Now, that is definitely a huge sport here with people going to Macau to “make money” not like Vegas where going to shows and entertainment is a part of the total experience.  I’m told that they take gambling very seriously here.

Going further down the river walk, I happened upon what looked like an organized ritual going on.  There were probably 20 people, including a monk, chanting specific wording off laminated cards.  Facing the water and solemnly reading the words over containers filled with live eels,  I wished I could understand Mandarin well enough to know what the hell was going on.  It was definitely a “Shanghai moment” and I’m so glad I was there to experience it.  

Even though I’m alone right now, I force myself to get out and see this wonderful, unique country while I can.  I don’t know how long we will be here and I want to soak it all in while I can.  Looking forward to my son, James, coming this week so we can go on adventures with him.  He came at Christmas but the weather wasn’t as accommodating to get out so hopefully he brings his walking shoes because instead of playing Xbox and ordering from Sherpa’s as he loves to do, we are going to wander and explore China while he is here-just what 21 year olds like to do with their parents!

News So Crazy It Has To Be Real-Who Could Make This Up???

The news made it’s usual trip to crazy town this week in the “Around China” section of the local newspaper so I thought I would share with you this collection of news briefs that showcase the absurdity of human behavior:

“Big rooftop house measures 1,630 sq m”.  So this illegal house was “discovered” recently though it was erected between 12/2012 and 4/2013.  Was it under an invisibility cloak all this time?  Did it just fall out of the sky on top of the building when no one was looking?  In typical fashion, “Local urban management officials could not stop the project because they didn’t meet with the owner, though they attempted to.”  Not surprisingly, the owner “cannot be found” but the house remains as testament to the craziness of the housing industry here.  Anyone need a room with a view?  Anyone want to bet that the urban management officials have moved in until the owner returns to keep it safe?

“Wife seeks divorce from blabbermouth husband.”. Yes, that’s a quote.  Seems the hubster was sharing details about their sex life with his parents. Now, men here are very attached to their family and all but this is a little too much sharing.  The court supported the woman’s request based on her plea that there was “no understanding between them and they had a poor emotional foundation.”  You think?

“Man drinks own urine for ‘treatment’ for 24 years.” This retired “official” (inquiring minds wonder what he was officially In charge of?) has now been diagnosed with kidney failure at age 88.  He said he “felt good for first 20 years” but now, not so much.  “Experts said there is no scientific basis to believe that drinking urine improves health.” Now, there’s some good news.

And finally, don’t come rushing to visit me to get your surgery done when you read this one:

“3-D printing used in surgery for first time.”. A hospital in a province that shall not be named has become the first to “experiment” with 3-D printing technology in vascular surgery.  Yes, Doctor, please experiment on me too and print me out a new heart or hip.   So cool.  Let’s see if it works after you cut me open.  Beautiful.  I bet they could work you in to the surgery schedule too if you ask nice.

 

It’s Human Eat Dog Festival Time

The headline in the Shanghai Daily reads, “Early dinner for lovers of dog meat”.  NOT. KIDDING.  It seems that there is an annual summer solstice festival in Yulin City in southern China where residents gather to eat dog meat and lychee in celebration of the longest day of the year.  This is so wrong on so many levels that I can’t stand it!  We didn’t bring our beloved Izaak to China with us because it was very difficult and a long hard journey for him to endure.  Now, while I miss him so much, I am feeling much better about our decision.

Many Chinese Dog Owners love and take care of their best friends
Many Chinese Dog Owners love and take care of their best friends

TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) is huge here and beliefs around what each type of food you eat can do for your body.  Apparently local residents believe that dog meat strengthens the body, especially in summer and ensures good health throughout the winter.  Man’s best friend elsewhere is just another way to prepare for the long winter ahead here.  I get that life in China is rough and that people will try anything to stay healthy but let’s just get these folks some Walgreens with OTC meds readily available and they can go back to enjoying their puppies as pets not meals.

Now, I see dogs everywhere I go in China and while they sometimes have pink hair or are wearing jogging outfits and booties, you don’t see dog meat on the local menus.  A co-worker did admit to having dog “hot pot” with a friend and told me it was considered a delicacy in some places.  He also said it was delicious.  I don’t think I’ve looked at him the same ever since.  Yes, I am judging you.

Animal rights activists have caught wind of the dog meat festival and are protesting.  The paper said that strays are grabbed off the streets and could have diseases.  Oh, so the animal rights activists are concerned with the effect on the people eating the dog and not really advocating for the dog???  Activists are also quoted as saying “the public backlash was damaging the image of Yulin and China.”. You think?  The local government only asked restaurants to take “dog” off the menus and signboards but did not ban the sale and consumption of dog.  So, if you are travelling in Yulin in the near future, as always in China, watch where you eat.  That could be Fido in your Hot Pot.