Stylin’ in Shanghai

Finding a new hair stylist is one of the scariest challenges you can face in life.  First world problems to be sure but after you have experienced a seriously bad hair cut or color, we’ll talk.  When you have hair as short as mine, one mistake and you could look ready for military duty or the circus or worse.  But really, what’s worse than being in a circus—scary ass clowns and all.  Add in a complicated coloring process that in the past has produced shocking pink hair when a genius laid down red color over blonde and you can perhaps begin to sympathize with my anxiety levels.  After shunning the haughty French dude who charged me ridiculous amounts of Yuan so he could regale me with tales of his greatness at hair cutting, I found Michael.  Recommended by my co-worker, he cuts hair out of his lane house in the former French Concession.  He dreams of one day opening his own salon on the Bund, but, for now, he entertains clients in his home with his cat, dog, friends, etc. wandering in and out as he does his hair thing.  It’s very local and interesting to say the least.

It takes HOURS to cut & color this hair to look good!
It takes HOURS to cut & color this hair to look good!

Chinese by birth but having worked in the UK, Michael is a seriously cool dude who speaks with a Chinese/British accent and advises me on life in Shanghai.  “Trust no one” is the motto he adopted after his former partner took his money and ruined his last salon.  He tells it like it is and I appreciate his honesty.  When he touched my hair today and asked what the hell I used as a conditioner, I told him Aveeda, an organic product I brought with me from the U.S.

“Darling, bloody hell, don’t you realize that the contaminated water here doesn’t work with anything organic.  F&#KING HELL!  We are not a civilized country-dump that organic shit.”  It makes sense, of course, that nothing organic could survive or flourish here. Duh. Stupid naïve me.

When the conversation came around to politics, he asked if I watched House of Cards. You bet!  Michael thinks that all politicians are as corrupt as Frank but perhaps not all go to the extreme of murdering people–maybe.  He respects the President of Italy for being frank about all his bad behavior.  Sex parties-sure, he did it and proud of it.  What???  After passing judgment that Obama seemed to be okay but what’s up with that brainless Bush, he declared Clinton his favorite U.S. President. Though he wondered why Bill was stupid enough to do Monica at the White House, he was far more disgusted that he couldn’t he find someone better to do it with.  Seriously, he’s the President of the Free World and he has to settle for an intern???  Interesting perspective, Michael.

I told him I was looking forward to having Hillary run the country because she would be smart enough not to do stupid shit like Bill and was probably smarter any way, though why she stayed with him all these years, I don’t get at all.  I would have cut off his junk and then set him loose after his first “indiscretion” but obviously Hillary is a kinder, more forgiving person than I and, if his name recognition and his legendary fund raising ability gets her elected, I guess he has some merit.  It is totally fun that Hillary will be a Nai Nai AND President.  You go girl!  I can’t wait to see her stare down Putin and put him in his place.  Yes, I’m that sure she will win.  Done.

With my hair looking good and still chuckling when I think of Michael’s reflections on life in Shanghai and politics in America, I’m glad I was able to discover a hair stylist who makes me laugh AND look cool.

 

 

When’s the last time you danced at work??

Having fun in Shanghai is always interesting.  When I interview people I always ask them, “Who Likes To Have Fun At Work?”  They sometimes look at me like I have three heads.  Fun.  At Work?  Yes, it is possible but not probable.  I understand that, in any culture, having fun in the workplace is unusual.  It takes special leadership and a special company to embrace this type of workplace but it is possible.  As I walked home tonight around 8 p.m., I stumbled upon a great example of a team that has found a way to bond, have fun AND stay in shape all at the same time.

I can only hope to find folks to hire with this type of energy and coordination because I LOVE to dance at work!  Every day as I walk to and from work, I enjoy seeing couples dancing, ladies marching, guys doing tai chi, etc. as they try to stay healthy in a challenging, generally unhealthy environment.  But the team dancing together this evening definitely wins the prize for “Fun Factor” despite all odds.  I just feel fortunate to have recorded the moment so I get to share with you this slice of every day work life in Shanghai.  I hope this inspires YOU to dance at work, or on the sidewalk or wherever, and have a great time–LIFE IS SHORT, SHAKE IT IF YOU GOT IT!

Shanghai Spring!

Spring has sprung in Shanghai!  And about time thank you very much.  While we didn’t get any snow, it’s been a long, dark winter.  I’m tired of trudging through the gloomy cold to work and looking forward to some sun and longer daylight hours to enjoy exploring all that China has to offer.  We’ll be in Beijing alot so looking forward to getting to know that city quite well.

Trying to name the "captains" pictured-got Captain Crunch right!
Trying to name the “captains” pictured-got Captain Crunch right!

We had a blast at Trivia Night at The Bookworm in Sanlitun this week and will definitely go back.  We killed in many categories but the music was a bit too international for our brains.  We hadn’t even heard many of the songs or artists featured.  Of course, Thom was overly generous when he gave one team credit for naming Bruno Mars’ song, Gorilla, when he put down “f*&k the monkey”, a loose interpretation of the lyrics of that crazy tune.  Trivia Nights are all the rage in China for Expat’s–this one was even smoke-free!

The ponchos come out when it rains!
The ponchos come out when it rains!

Rain + Spring = GREEN!  The newly revived grass and trees were a welcome sight amidst the grey polluted skies today in Shanghai.  Oh what I wouldn’t give for a blue sky day!!!  I worked the past week in Beijing, where it was 200+ AQI every day and so depressing.  You could tell Michelle Obama and the girls had gone–fire up the furnaces and let the pollutants loose ’cause the liberals have left the building!

Enjoying my new patio chairs from Ikea on our balcony.
Enjoying my new patio chairs from Ikea on our balcony.

No matter, even though there are very few days to enjoy the outside air, we braved the crowds at Ikea to grab some patio chairs for our balcony.  While we can’t leave them out every day because they would just get filthy, we are ever hopeful that we will have a few fine days to sip coffee and enjoy a rare day where you can breathe in without coughing.  Look, they’re still white!

If you want to enjoy a clusterf&*k of epic proportions, visit Ikea on a weekend in Shanghai.  HOLY.  HELL.  Get those elbows out and jump into the fray.  There is a steady parade that you just have to join in as people take pictures, nap, use the somewhat clean bathrooms, socialize, eat and do everything BUT buy anything.  Thom and I are veteran Ikea shoppers so we just took off cutting through departments and grabbing what was on the list as quick as possible.  No browsing for us and who could nap with all that noise!  Obviously someone could because the beds were almost all taken-there being no trespass laws here in China.

New Converse for me!
New Converse for me!

We also visited the AP market and haggled for some Converse-like sneakers for me.  Nothing says SPRING like some new shoes.  They take their fashion very seriously here and my casual look is very counter to the ruffles, bows, and frilly look favored by many of the females here.  To each their own!

Spring fashion includes lots of prints and ruffles.
Spring fashion includes lots of prints and ruffles.

Window shopping at the IFC mall, the many boutiques featured beautiful outfits from shoes to hat.  Of course, they are all in size 0-4 so I can look but not buy.  The largest size even in the US Brands like Gap is a small version of a 8.  No more carbs for me!  Some day I would like to buy some local fashion so I’ll just have to get out the duct tape and starve for a few weeks!

We leave in a week to visit the US to work and then get to be with Hannah and Mike as Mia arrives in May.  From her current antics inside, she is already enjoying being active and will no doubt keep her parents very busy from the get go. Put on your track shoes, Hannah and Mike!   We love little Mia already and look forward to her getting to know her Nai Nai,  While I wish we could live closer, the day will come when we are all together.  Until then, Mia will get lots of cute outfits as we plan to spoil her rotten.

Look out blue skies and clean air, here we come!

 

The NITRO–Coffee with a Serious KICK

Always searching for a new coffee experience in Shanghai, I saw a story about Sumerian Specialty Coffee and decided that we just had to go.  So, we set off walking and ended up on a familiar street, Shaanxi Bei Lu, where we go for the best bagel in Shanghai-Egghead Bagels.

The Nitro
The Nitro

Well, next door we had seen a coffee shop with dogs sleeping on the floor and never stopped in. Turns out, this was the café we had set out to find and didn’t know we had walked by it many times.  Filled with expats, both inside and outside, the drink we had come to try out was the “Nitro” special–a special coffee blend brewed under pressure of nitrogen and CO2.  Yep.  That’s what I said. I don’t think even in coffee-crazy Seattle that they have tried this one before but the U.S. does have all those crazy FDA rules and here anything goes.

Coffee coming out of the spigot.
Coffee coming out of the spigot.

Just like pulling a Guinness, it comes out cold,dark and smooth with a slight fizz on the tongue.  Unexpected and totally a new tasting sensation for me.  Combine that with hot cookies out of the oven from Strictly Cookies that they have partnered with and my favorite cookie in the whole wide world and I think founder David Seminsky has found a winning combo to keep us coffee junkies happy and coming back.  Fellow café patrons were enjoying the caffeine offerings plus wraps and bagel sandwiches–lots here to keep all the xpats well fed while they socialized.  The table next to us spilled over with Brits while there were some locals also enjoying the bright and airy place.  I loved the plants hanging on the wall in glass containers held onto the rustic boards with steel clamps-totally going to copy that idea for our apartment.  If anything, David needs to expand because there were no seats available and this wasn’t even a peak time.  If you’re ever in Shanghai, check it out and see if you have the courage to try the Nitro!

Exercising with the locals

After visiting the hospital yesterday, I knew I should go home and rest but it was a somewhat sunny day out so we opted to try to find a new coffee shop we had heard about.  Caffeine makes everything better!  Along the way, we wandered through parts of Shanghai that we hadn’t previously visited and found a new park that was divided into four zones based on the trees they had planted-spring, summer, fall and winter.  What a great idea and just lovely with all the plants and flowers in full bloom.

My new friend and I exercising in the park.
My new friend and I exercising in the park.

The hospitals are falling apart and dirty but the parks are spotless and meticulously maintained.  Go figure.  I love that exercise equipment is installed in many of the parks so locals can work out and they do, especially the more mature set.  As we entered this park, I saw a lovely lady doing her workout so I thought I would join her.  She probably thought I was crazy but I appreciated that as we filmed this little video, she didn’t run away.  

Fun, right?  I need to find ways to engage more with the culture here even if it means asking the locals if I can join them–I’m dying to be a part of the early morning TaiChi ladies who work out daily at 7:30 a.m. in the park that our apartment overlooks.  Sure, I might get strange looks but I bet they will let me join them if even for one morning.  Maybe one of them will let me borrow a sword to practice with-that will make Thom afraid and James jealous.

I am feeling better today after getting new meds for my bronchitis plus the AQI today is a lovely 72–first under 100 in awhile.  Thom and I are off to experience a new adventure today!

 

Hospital House of Horrors

Yes, this is the inside of the hospital.  Scary dirty.
Yes, this is the inside of the hospital. Scary dirty.

Due to the toxic cocktail I imbibe daily consisting of pollutants infused with the DNA sprayed on me in the subway and streets by the millions of my spit-happy Chinese commuter pals, I have acute bronchitis that will JUST NOT GO AWAY.  The first doctor I visited a few weeks ago was very blasé about the whole “coughing a lung up” sad story I told him but now, weeks later, I found a more sympathetic lady doc who gave me not one but four new prescriptions to chase away the “haziness” she saw on my lung x-rays. After riding down in the service elevator from the exam room to the x-ray room, I followed the nurse into a storage closet housing old equipment that was piled haphazardly on the floors and covered with used patient gowns.  Talk about inspiring confidence in their medical system!  She instructed me to strip and put on the gown that she held out for me.  When in China!

Closet piled with crap and also my changing room before x-rays.
Closet piled with crap and also my changing room before x-rays.

Nurse averted her eyes while I followed her command, stripped, suited up and stepped out into a very old huge 1970’s x-ray machine to get pictures taken of my chest.  What they lack in hygiene (the hospital was old, filthy and had peeling paint everywhere) they made up for in quickness as the doctor and I were viewing my x-ray just twenty minutes later and discussing courses of treatment.  I got herbal expectorants AND antibiotics AND steroids AND inhalers to chase out the very bad persistent shit living in me right now, hopefully temporarily…thank you AQI’s of 150+ every day.  I actually had to make a chart for all the meds with all the directions and cautions (do not take with milk, do take with food, take 30 minutes before food, etc.).  HOLY.  HELL.

I have a trip to the U.S. coming up in two weeks and it cannot come soon enough.     Dr. Ken, Here I Come!  Modern medicine is something we take for granted in the United States but here in China, I know for a fact that if I get any type of serious injury or sickness, I am opting for the Medical Evacuation Clause in my contact and getting the Hell out of here to fly home or Hong Kong if I need a quicker landing.  I hear Hong Kong hospitals aren’t the house of horrors like they are here.  They can’t be worse.  Prayers are needed-big time.  Now, I have to figure out what pill to take next.  Updates to come.

Enjoying the Spa Life in Shanghai

Some might call us pampered after reading this story but, hey, life can be rough here in China so we have embraced the spa culture here with open arms…and backs and feet and hands and… well,you get the idea, right?  Sure, we get our cookies and groceries delivered to our door but only because the toxic air outside makes it less appealing to walk to the stores and restaurants.  Of course we have an Ayi but all Expat’s do and it’s our way to help the local economy by employing Pink, who takes sure good care of us.  I wonder if she’ll consider a move to Boise eventually.  I think if we had a car/driver like most expats do, we would be stupid spoiled.  However, we do keep it real daily by taking the subway and walking the streets like locals, which means we are nimble and can dodge the spitballs and pools of bodily fluid with the best of them.  Thus, the need to be pampered thoroughly and often by Dragonfly Massage, our chosen oasis of serenity and happiness….ahhhh….

2 for 88rmb cocktails plus free pizza & munchies at Isola and the view is priceless
2 for 88rmb cocktails plus free pizza & munchies at Isola and the view is priceless

When offered the Dragonfly Spring Special to receive an additional 1000RMB in gift certificates if we renewed our 5000RMB VIP membership, we were all over it.  WHY, YES PLEASE!  When we opted for the VIP Package with Dragonfly in late fall, we thought it would last a really long time—surely a year.  How many massages does a couple need, really? Turns out the answer to that question is LOTS!  As our massage date nights have become more frequent,  one might say addictive, the VIP card balance was declining rapidly so we both deemed it necessary and prudent to allocate serious funds to continue our habit.  We’ll just eat less.  Sure.  That’s it.

Happy Hour at Isola at the IFC Mall in Pudong
Happy Hour at Isola at the IFC Mall in Pudong with view of the Pearl Tower

Friday night rolled around and so we set off to enjoy Happy Hour and then on to a night of Mani/Pedi’s.  When Morton’s was too busy and couldn’t fit us in, we went next door to Isola and enjoyed the floor to ceiling view of the Pearl Tower and excellent service.  After toasting the good life in Shanghai and quaffing down a few martini’s and pizza (just 88RMB for 2 drinks/free food–saving $$ for massages), we descended into the subterranean lower levels of the swanky IFC Mall in Pudong to Dragonfly.

Thom being a mani/pedi virgin, his feet and hands needed some serious attention.  His cuticles were crying for attention, well more like screaming in madness, and his lucky salonist had the honor of clipping and chopping enough of Thom’s DNA off to create a Thom MiniMe.  Looking like shaved parmesian curls only far less appetizing, the dead skin peeled off Thom’s foot in panels and covered the floor.  Get these ladies a Roomba!

Thom feeling pampered
Thom feeling pampered

As I snapped photos and Thom joked around, his salonist laughed and thought Thom was hilarious, which of course he is. Thom, ambivalent about the whole mani/pedi process before trying it, is now a huge fan and considering a return visit soon.  It is addictive to have those clean cuticles!

Leaving Dragonfly a shoe size smaller and light on our feet, we walked home and rested up for a second round of spa treatments on Saturday morning.

Facial Time!
Facial Time!

Using our free spa packages that we won at the Irish Ball, we arrived at the Jungle Spa bright and early Saturday morning (that’s 10 a.m. in China–no one moves early here)  for our facials and massages.  While we had lotions and potions applied to our skin and she launched an attack on my nose with a sharp instrument, our feet basked in a foot sauna machine with rolling balls of wonderful torture.  Spoiled?  I reflected on that as she rubbed my head.  Okay, maybe.  We were both new to facials and decided that we might have to add this to our rotation of spa treatments.  With skin as soft as a baby bottom and looking 10 years younger at least (perhaps there was some aroma therapy going on too that made us hallucinate) we headed off to pamper the rest of our bodies with a 70 minute hot oil stone full body massage.

In a room for two, we put on the teeny tiny undergarments provided (let’s hope they only use once and throw away) and laid face down on the table.  These lovely little ladies proceeded to thump..HARD…knead and dig into our muscles with such gusto that at one point as she bent my elbow back to press into my own flesh, I cried out “NO” and stopped it cold before a bone snapped.  Damn, those hot stones (not pebbles but big ass rocks) were being rubbed into my spine as the hot oil just dripped off, running down my face onto the floor.  I have never had a massage that touched almost every part of my body with a few square inches of exception.  I wonder what she thought of my Chinese “Happiness” tatoo that only Thom had seen up to now.  Bet they chatted about that after we left-those crazy Laowai’s that we are!

Thom's massage outfit was a bit larger than mine!
Thom’s massage outfit was a bit larger than mine!
Massage outfit-yep, that's it!
My massage outfit-yep, that’s it!

Dripping oil, we showered off and compared notes on what got rubbed and how it felt.  Thom was glad I was in the room with him so there were no “happy endings” though this was a nice legit place so I’m sure THAT never happens there.  Thom said he could hear my back bones cracking and wondered if I would survive to walk another day.  Now, he didn’t stop to ask during the massage if I was okay because he was enjoying his so much but nice to know he thought about me.  Surprisingly, though it did hurt ALOT during the massage, I was still able to get up off the table and take a walk afterward with no ill effects. HALLELUJAH!  We look forward to taking our friends, Larry and Patti, here when they visit us.  Patti may never go back to Indiana after a full day spa treatment in Shanghai.

Now, as the rain beats down hard, I am happy that I am wrapped in a soft, warm blanket at home, smooth skin and all, getting ready for a House of Cards marathon with my best friend..after nap time, of course.  What an exhausting day!

 

 

BEST. COOKIE. EVER.

BEST. COOKIE. EVER.  Trust me, these thighs don’t lie.  Yes, I know eating dense, chewy, flavorful cookies isn’t necessarily the healthiest food choice.  I also know life is short and living is hard in China.  Cookies for dinner?  What a great idea!  Having found Strictly Cookies, it’s hard not to place that next order when the last cookie has crumbled.  Oh, did I forget to say that THEY DELIVER.  Yes, fresh baked cookies delivered to your door at no charge.  Hello, doorman?  Yes, send those cookies right up… to my mouth!

Nom Nom Dessert Bar in Shanghai
Nom Nom Dessert Bar in Shanghai

Even though we could have played it the easy way and went online to order several pounds of baked bliss, I have to work off those cookie calories somehow so tonight we walked miles to go to the epicenter of all this cookie goodness and see where the magic is created.  Nom Nom Dessert Café is the bakery/storefront for the Strictly Cookies empire. And by empire, I mean they are carried at a few locations in Shanghai like Egghead Bagels (best bagels in Shanghai) where I found them and also sold online, though I predict big things in the future for this entrepreneur.

What to choose-PB, Choc. Chip, Oatmeal, Choc. Brownie
What to choose-PB, Choc. Chip, Oatmeal, Choc. Brownie

Lexis Comstock founded Strictly Cookies in 2010 when she couldn’t find cookies to her standard in Shanghai.  Sure, there are bakeries everywhere and carbs are easy to come by but cookies like these are rare anywhere in the world, let alone in China.  I signed up for their newsletter and was rewarded with witty writing (“unsubscribe from this list because you prefer cupcakes”) and updates on the seasonal cookie selections.  Got to love a gal who can bake AND write. Check them out at http://www.strictlycookies.com or on Facebook and drool all over the pics of the yummy treats–one good reason to live in Shanghai!  Cookies forever and always is their motto.  I agree.

Red velvet cookies with a side of cream cheese frosting. WHY YES, PLEASE.  Bourbon in my cookie milkshake.  BELLY UP TO THE COOKIE BAR!  Mango sorbet sandwiched between chocolate chip cookies.  SUMMER IN MY MOUTH.

Cookie+Ice Cream=Heaven
Cookie+Ice Cream=Heaven

 

Flowers and baby bunnies and plants galore!

Spring fever hit us hard this weekend.  BAM!  Like that f&%*ing local bus that tries to hit me every day on my morning commute.  BE NIMBLE OR DIE is my mantra.  And with sunny, 60+ degrees and somewhat blue skies (with the layer of pollution, they are never quite all blue),  we  felt revived and nimble so we shopped at a few local flower shops but decided to check out the flower market we had heard about before we purchased anything.  Dreams of lounging in Ikea patio chairs surrounded by fragrant flowering plants while enjoying a glass of wine…ahhh….now, if you could do that without being coated with grey dust and dirt from the pollution, it would be perfect.  Oh well, maybe there will be a day or two to enjoy our patio.  One can hope and dream.

Spring has sprung at the Pudong Flower Market
Spring has sprung at the Pudong Flower Market

After investigating where this market was located, we got a taxi and set out to explore.  Not so far from our apartment, we found the multi-level green market and happily spent the next hour wandering the many stalls of plants, cut flowers, furniture, frame shops and pets aka lunch.  My only wish was that I had a minivan at my beck and call to haul home LOTS of gorgeous plants.  Alas, we are at the mercy of our feet or, if lucky, possibly a cab.  We tried to negotiate pricing using my Chinese bargaining terms but found that the pricing, at least for Laowais, was pretty set.  I got a few Yuan off my glass terrarium, my daisy bouquet and our bonsai planter.  We didn’t know if we would find a taxi to take us home so we bought greenery “lite”.  Good thing too because we did end up walking a mile or two in the sunshine back home with our new greenery.

While we loved seeing the turtles, fish, bunnies and other small animals, we know many will not end up as pets but rather as the main entrée or appetizer.  I couldn’t stand it so I walked away quickly in denial.  Thom, the bird whisperer, had a lengthy conversation with a parrot.  Are you surprised?

Parrots=tastes like chicken.  Sorry, Thom, I know you like chatting with them.
Parrots=tastes like chicken. Sorry, Thom, I know you like chatting with them.

On the upper floors, there were many art galleries, framing shops, furniture stores and all the silk flowers.  One side of the buildings was strictly for plants with huge bonsai trees that would require a crane AND a minivan to get home.  Not today.  On the other side were all the cut flowers.  What I loved the most were these tiny hanging terrarium on ribbons.  I think I may just have to go back and buy a few to hang from our curtain rods.  Too cute!

Terrariums are back from the 70's with a vengeance!
Terrariums are back from the 70’s with a vengeance!

Avoiding the Sunshine in China

Umbrellas come out on sunny days!
Umbrellas come out on sunny days!

When the sun comes out, so do the umbrellas, hats, gloves and long sleeve shirts in Shanghai.  Here, I’m told that as part of the culture, local gals (not the dudes) try very hard to keep their skin as light as possible.  This past weekend, with beautiful sunny weather in the 60’s, we saw the ladies in full protective mode so as not to suffer the ill effects of the rays.

Cover up, the sun has come out!
Cover up, the sun has come out! This lady is adding layers instead of taking them off.

Tonight watching television, one of the ads was for a Vaseline product that promised 4X lighter skin with application.  REALLY??? I find that very hard to believe but, as Thom pointed out, maybe that means if you apply the white cream and don’t rub it in, your skin will be whiter.  Truth in advertising, not so much.

Back in the U.S., where it is still snowing across the nation, sun worshippers would celebrate this warm weather by lathering up with tanning oil and donning their thongs.  Thank goodness, they cover it all up here in China.  Exposing all that bare skin is not only a recipe for skin cancer but most people really aren’t in good enough shape to be sharing their pasty flesh with others.  PLEASE keep it covered!